Unoccluded retinol penetrates human skin in vivo more effectively than unoccluded retinyl palmitate or retinoic acid

High Stability and Low Irritation of Retinol Propionate and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate Supramolecular Nanoparticles with Effective Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

Gravi-A nanoparticles, composed of retinyl propionate (RP) and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), were prepared by encapsulating the two using the high-pressure homogenization technique. The nanoparticles are effective in anti-wrinkle treatment with high stability and low irritation. We evaluated the effect of different process parameters on nanoparticle preparation. Supramolecular technology effectively produced nanoparticles with spherical shapes with an average size of 101.1 nm. The encapsulation efficiency was in the 97.98–98.35% range. The system showed a sustained release profile for reducing the irritation caused by Gravi-A nanoparticles. Furthermore, applying lipid nanoparticle encapsulation technology improved the transdermal efficiency of the nanoparticles, thereby allowing these to penetrate deep into the dermis layer to achieve precise and sustained release of active ingredients. Gravi-A nanoparticles can be extensively and conveniently used in cosmetics and other related formulations by direct application.

Passive Enhancement of Retinol Skin Penetration by Jojoba Oil Measured Using the Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeation Assay (Skin-PAMPA): A Pilot Study

Introduction

Retinol is known to have positive benefits on the skin including enhancements in barrier function, increased epidermal thickness, reductions in fine lines and wrinkles and reductions in hyperpigmentation. Improved methods to enhance the penetration of retinol are desirable.

Methods

A study was conducted to examine if addition of natural jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) oil might help passively enhance the penetration of retinol through the skin's lipid barrier. The model used to examine the passive penetration of the retinol is the skin parallel artificial membrane permeation assay (Skin-PAMPA). In this study, three formulations were examined. The formulations included two control blends: a moisturizing emulsion without retinol and the same product containing 1.0% retinol without jojoba oil. The remaining formulation contained similar concentrations of retinol with 10% jojoba oil. The studies were conducted by applying the products to the Skin-PAMPA models at 37°C/5% CO₂ for 16 hours and then extraction of the acceptor reservoir with cyclohexane (ratio 1:5 acceptor fluid to cyclohexane). The resulting acceptor reservoir cyclohexane solutions were analyzed for retinol by High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC).

Results

The formulations without retinol showed no indications of retinol penetration by HPLC. The control formulation with 1.0% retinol demonstrated that retinol had permeated the membrane in the 16-hour timeframe with a measured Area Under the Curve (AUC) of 7 units. Analysis of the formulation containing 1.0% retinol and 10% jojoba oil indicated retinol had permeated with a AUC of 285 units, a nearly 40-fold increase in active retinol permeation.

Discussion

The ability for jojoba oil to directly act to help skin permeation of a key skin care active like retinol has not been previously demonstrated. This potential for jojoba oil to enhance passive skin penetration of critical skin actives, like retinol, can help to improve the performance of skin care products employing active topical ingredients.

Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations

Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings.

Microencapsulation of retinyl palmitate by melt dispersion for cosmetic application

Retinyl palmitate was encapsulated in wax matrix by melt dispersion for the purpose of economic and sustainable cosmeceutical formulation with minimum use of synthetic chemicals. We evaluated the effect of different process variables of microencapsulation by melt dispersion. In this study, a three level definitive screening design was applied, where the microcapsule properties were analysed through statistical analysis to understand the effect of four process variables: type of wax, theoretical loading capacity, surface concentration and stirring speed. Microparticles were characterised for size using image analysis; loading capacity and encapsulation efficiency using ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy; antioxidant activity through DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) assay. Melt dispersion method was effective to produce microcapsules with a spherical shape and mean size as small as 28 µm. The encapsulation efficiency ranged 60-80%. Theoretical loading capacity (p-value = 0.00232, significance level, α = 1%) and surfactant% (p = 0.0573, α = 10%) were found to be the most significant factors to control the actual loading capacity and size of microcapsules.

How to Use Oral and Topical Cosmeceuticals to Prevent and Treat Skin Aging

Skin aging is caused by DNA damage in nuclei and mitochondria, inflammation, glycation, decreased function of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and breakdown of heparan sulfate, hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin. Identifying patients at an increased risk of skin aging using a standardized methodology to diagnose the Baumann Skin Type will allow doctors to prescribe an efficacious antiaging skin care regimen. Cosmeceuticals can activate LGR6+ stem cells, improve cell response to signals such as growth factors, stimulate collagen genes, neutralize free radicals, and decrease breakdown of collagen and elastin. Giving written instructions will increase patient compliance and improve outcomes.

Comparative efficacy of two anti-aging products containing retinyl palmitate in healthy human volunteers

BACKGROUND

No study yet described the comparative efficacy of two over-the-counter (OTC) anti-aging products in Asian subjects using the techniques involving analysis of living skin.

AIM

We sought to evaluate the anti-aging efficacy of two commercial formulations containing retinyl palmitate using a high-resolution UVA video camera.

METHOD

Total 11 healthy male volunteers, agreed to participate in this single-blind split-face design study with the mean age of 25.5 years. Every night, volunteers applied one type of cream on the left side and other type of cream on the right side of the face, as directed according to the study design for 60 days. Measurements of the parameters were taken at 0, 1st, 7th, 15th, 30th, and 60th day of study period using noninvasive UVA video camera Visioscan^® VC98. Cream applied on right side of the face labeled as "R" and on the left side as "L."

RESULTS

Sixty-day use of the creams showed significant improvement in SELS parameters of the skin. Percent change in skin wrinkling (SEw) parameter calculated after 60 days was -6.68% after applying cream R and -8.27% after applying cream L.

CONCLUSION

We concluded that constituents in both creams have potentially influenced skin surface parameters, thus indicating that, these creams as a better option to lessen the effects of aging on facial skin on long-term application.

Photo-induced DNA damage and photocytotoxicity of retinyl palmitate and its photodecomposition products

Retinyl palmitate (RP) is an ester of retinol (vitamin A) and the predominant form of retinol found endogenously in the skin. We have previously reported that photoirradiation of RP with UVA light resulted in the formation of anhydroretinol (AR), 5,6-epoxyretinyl palmitate (5,6-epoxy-RP) and other photodecomposition products. While AR was formed through an ionic photodissociation mechanism, 5,6-epoxy-RP was formed through a light-mediated, free radical-initiated chain reaction. In the current study, the phototoxicity of RP, AR and 5,6-epoxy-RP in human skin Jurkat T-cells with and without light irradiation was determined using a fluorescein diacetate assay. Under similar conditions, the Comet assay was used to assess damage to cellular DNA. Nuclear DNA was not significantly damaged when the cells were irradiated by UVA plus visible light in the absence of a retinoid; however, when the cells were illuminated with UVA plus visible light in the presence of either RP, 5,6-epoxy-RP or AR (50, 100, 150 and 200 mM), DNA fragmentation was observed. Cell death was observed for retinoid concentrations of 100 mM or higher. When treated with 150 mM of RP, 5,6-epoxy-RP or AR, cell death was 52, 33 and 52%, respectively. These results suggest that RP and its two photodecomposition products, AR and 5,6-epoxy-RP, induce DNA damage and cytotoxicity when irradiated with UVA plus visible light. We also determined that photoirradiation of RP, AR and 5,6-epoxy-RP causes single strand breaks in supercoiled FX174 plasmid DNA. Using a constant dose of UVA light (50 J/cm2), the level of DNA cleavage was highest in the presence of AR, followed by 5,6-epoxy-RP, then RP. The induced DNA strand cleavage was inhibited by NaN3. These results suggest that photoirradiation of RP, 5,6-epoxy-RP and AR with UVA light generates free radicals that initiate DNA strand cleavage.

Influence of the complex of retinol-vitamin C on skin surface lipids

BACKGROUND

Retinol is used to reduce symptoms of skin aging. It affects surface lipids and increases skin regeneration ability.

AIM

The aim of our study was to investigate the effect of retinol peel on the face and neck skin lipids in women, aged 50-69.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The level of secreted sebum was measured using Sebumeter SM15 (Courage & Khazaka, Germany) on the forehead, cheeks, nose, chin, and neck. The measurements were carried out before each of the 3 retinol peel treatments applied at 3-week interval and 3 weeks after the last treatment.

RESULTS

A statistically significant increase of lipid film in both U-zone and T-zone and on the neck was observed in the study group.

CONCLUSION

Retinol peel treatments can help to increase the amount of skin surface lipids in women during menopause.

Amphiphilic polysaccharide nanocarriers with antioxidant properties

The development of self-assembled nanocarriers for the encapsulation of hydrophobic antioxidants is of growing interest. Self-assembled amphiphilic chitosan conjugate nanocarriers that stabilize antioxidants were prepared based on the concept that both the nanocarrier and the antioxidant bear similar hydrophobic moieties able to establish hydrophobic interactions. This work describes the preparation and characterization of a system consisting of a palmitoyl chitosan conjugate and retinyl palmitate. Palmitic acid was coupled to chitosan using a carbodiimide-mediated coupling reaction, and two different palmitoyl chitosan conjugates were obtained by varying the coupling system. Palmitoyl chitosan conjugates self-assembled to form nanoparticles in aqueous medium varying in mean average diameter (Dh) between 200 and 437 nm. Retinyl palmitate–loaded nanoparticles were prepared by a solvent displacement method using dialysis, with loading efficiencies of 77.5% and 88.6%, loading contents of 12.6% and 14.6%, and Dh values of approximately 280 nm. The zeta potential (ζ) of all palmitoyl chitosan nanoparticle were above 25 mV, but ζ slightly increased in the retinyl palmitate–loaded nanoparticle. Antioxidant activity of loaded nanoparticles was confirmed using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl radical scavenging assay. The in vitro cytotoxicity of blank and loaded nanoparticles was determined using fibroblasts of human embryonic skin. All nanoparticles were not cytotoxic when they were tested with methylthiazol tetrazolium and lactate dehydrogenase tests. The obtained results suggest that the system has potential as a nanocarrier for dermal application. Additionally, the approach considered in this article can be expanded to other nanocarrier/antioxidant systems.

Photoaging: prevention and topical treatments

A rapidly increasing number of people visit dermatologists for the prevention and treatment of aging skin. Sun avoidance and sunscreen use are widely accepted strategies of primary prevention against photoaging. Convincing evidence shows that topical application of retinoids has an effect on reversing, at least partially, mild to moderate photodamage. Antioxidants and alpha-hydroxy acids can alter the skin structure and function. Enzymes that repair DNA damage or oligonucleotides that enhance the endogenous capacity for DNA damage repair may prove to be future preventive/therapeutic interventions for aging skin.

Topical retinoids in the treatment of photoaging

A large number of different substances comprise the family of retinoids, which are traditionally described as vitamin A derivatives. By exerting their action through nuclear and cytoplasmic receptors they may improve photoaging. Tretinoin is the best studied retinoid in the treatment of photoaging. Others such as isotretinoin, retinaldehyde, and tazarotene, although less well studied, have given promising results.

Proposed mechanisms of action for retinoid derivatives in the treatment of skin aging

Skin aging (intrinsic aging) and photoaging (extrinsic aging) involve a similar process that leads to the typical creased appearance of the skin, with the progressive loss of its physical and biologic properties. Photoaging is a premature skin aging caused by long-term exposure to the ultraviolet B radiations of the sun, and is more frequently associated to skin cancer than intrinsic aging. Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and penetrate the epidermis easily. Their biologically active forms can modulate gene expression by binding to nuclear receptors and then to specific DNA sequences. Because of their ability to modulate genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation, they appear as good candidates to treat and prevent photoaging. Hyaluronate and collagen, two major constituents of the dermis, are progressively decreased and altered during aging. Various retinoids were shown to increase their synthesis and concentration in the skin and reduce their rate of degradation. Furthermore, retinoids share a common chemical structure containing several conjugated double bonds that enable them to trap free radicals and absorb UV radiations from the sun, thereby protecting cellular targets such as DNA, lipid membranes, or proteins by preventing direct photochemical damage or UV-induced oxidative stress. Therefore, retinoids may be beneficial in treating skin aging and photoaging because of their biologic, chemical, and physical properties, which act at several levels.

Studying the effectiveness of penetration enhancers to deliver retinol through the stratum cornum by in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy

The purpose of this study is to monitor in vivo the effect of chemical penetration enhancers on the delivery of trans-retinol into human skin. Chemical penetration enhancers reversibly alter barrier properties of the SC by disruption of the membrane structures or maximising drug solubility with the skin. So far, most of permeation or penetration experiments are performed in vitro. Raman spectroscopy is uniquely placed to be able to measure biological processes in vivo and this paper shows for the first time that the effect of penetration enhancer on the delivery of trans-retinol can successfully be measured in vivo using this technique. Here, the volar forearm of volunteers was treated with four formulations. One formulation is a highly effective model delivery system identified from ex vivo experiments: trans-retinol in Propylene Glycol (PG)/ethanol, with PG being a well-known and efficient penetration enhancer. The other three formulations are based on 0.3% trans-retinol in Caprylic/Capric Acid Triglyceride (MYRITOL 318), an oil commonly used in skin creams but in two of them a specific penetration enhancer is added. One contains a lipid extractor, Triton X 100, whereas another formulation contains a lipid fluidiser, Oleic Acid. Solutions were applied once and measurements were performed up to 6 h after treatment. Remarkable differences in the delivery of trans-retinol between formulation with or without penetration enhancer can clearly be seen. Moreover, the type of penetration enhancer is also shown to influence the delivery. While using the Oleic Acid, which is a lipid fluidiser, a better delivery of trans-retinol in the skin can be detected. For the first time, the effect of penetration enhancer on the delivery of trans-retinol has been monitored, non invasively in vivo, with time.

Skin lightening preparations and the hydroquinone controversy

Skin lightening preparations are widely used in dermatology by persons of all Fitzpatrick skin types. Fitzpatrick skin types I-III require local pigment lightening for the treatment of hormonally induced melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by acne and trauma. Fitzpatrick skin types IV and darker have an even greater need for skin lightening for social reasons, as well as pigmentary changes that occur around the eyes, in the intertriginous areas, following dermatitis, or with acne and trauma. The gold standard dermatologic agent for skin lightening was hydroquinone, until regulatory agencies in Japan, Europe, and most recently in the United States questioned the safety of this substance. This has encouraged research into alternative agents to inhibit skin pigmentation such as retinoids, mequinol, azelaic acid, arbutin, kojic acid, aleosin, licorice extract, ascorbic acid, soy proteins, and N-acetyl glucosamine. The efficacy and safety of each of these ingredients is examined as possible topical alternatives to hydroquinone.

Physiological Role of Retinyl Palmitate in the Skin

The skin is similar to other organs in how it absorbs, stores, and metabolizes vitamin A. However, because of the anatomical location of skin and the specialized physiological roles it plays, there are ways in which the skin is rather unique. The stratified structure of the epidermis results from the orchestration of retinoid-influenced cellular division and differentiation. Similarly, many of the physiological responses of the skin, such as dermal aging, immune defense, and wound healing, are significantly affected by retinoids. While much is known about the molecular events through which retinoids affect the skin's responses, more remains to be learned. Interest in the effects of retinol, retinyl palmitate, and other retinoids on the skin, fueled in part by the promise of improved dermatologic and cosmetic products, will undoubtedly make the effects of retinoids on skin a subject for continued intense investigation.

Topical Delivery of Retinyl Ascorbate Co-Drug

Chemical and enzymatic hydrolysis of the co-drug of retinoic acid (vitamin A) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) - retinyl ascorbate (RA-AsA)--have been studied. Firstly, the amount of protein and ester hydrolysis activity was determined in crude cellular extracts from freshly excised porcine ear skin (<3 h) and stored porcine ear skin (frozen >6 months) using ethyl butyrate as model substrate. The stability of RA-AsA was then determined in the crude cell extracts with and without additional antioxidants. Lastly, the enzymatic hydrolysis of RA-AsA and retinyl-2-carboxy-2-hydroxy-ethanoate were determined by incubating with porcine liver esterase - retinol palmitate and ascorbyl palmitate were included for comparison. Freshly excised skin contained higher amounts of active proteins than previously frozen skin. RA-AsA underwent hydrolytic reduction causing the AsA moiety to disintegrate due to the presence of free radicals in the media. An intermediate was produced that seemed to be cleaved by enzymes. Addition of ascorbic acid, as antioxidant, to the media of crude protein extracts decelerated the hydrolysis rate. This was supported when RA-AsA and retinyl-2-carboxy-2-hydroxy-ethanoate were incubated separately with pure esterase. There was approximately 5-fold more soluble protein per ml of cytosol in the fresh skin compared to the stored skin. Therefore, the amount of protein present within approximately 1.5 cm(2) of skin (average diffusion area in the Franz cells used in our skin penetration studies) was 0.06 mg cm(-2) and 0.01 mg cm(-2) for fresh and stored extracts, respectively.

Retinoids in cosmeceuticals

Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and easily penetrate the epidermis. Their biologically active forms can modulate the expression of genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation. Retinoic acid (tretinoin), its 13-cis isomer isotretinoin, as well as various synthetic retinoids are used for therapeutic purposes, whereas retinaldehyde, retinol, and retinyl esters, because of their controlled conversion to retinoic acid or their direct receptor-independent biologic action, can be used as cosmeceuticals. These natural retinoic acid precursors are thus expected to be helpful in (i) renewing epidermal cells, (ii) acting as UV filters, (iii) preventing oxidative stress, (iv) controlling cutaneous bacterial flora, and (v) improving skin aging and photoaging. Retinol and retinyl esters are not irritant, whereas demonstrating only a modest clinical efficiency. On the other hand, retinaldehyde, which is fairly well tolerated, seems to be the most efficient cosmeceutical retinoid; it has significant efficiency toward oxidative stress, cutaneous bacterial flora, epidermis renewing, and photoaging.

A newly synthesized photostable retinol derivative (retinyl N-formyl aspartamate) for photodamaged skin: profilometric evaluation of 24-week study

BACKGROUND

Retinol (vitamin A) is used in the cosmetics industry as an antiwrinkle agent. However, its photoinstability and skin irritation potential make it challenging to use in general cosmetic formulations.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to assess the efficacy of a newly synthesized photostable retinol derivative (retinyl N-formyl aspartamate) in patients with photodamaged skin. Retinyl N-formyl aspartamate is a newly synthesized retinol derivative with higher photostability, and a similar effect on collagenase expression level as retinol.

METHODS

In all, 29 Korean women (age range: 31-54 years), who were not pregnant, nursing, or undergoing any concurrent therapy, were enrolled in this study. A total of 24 patients completed a 24-week trial of retinyl N-formyl aspartamate twice daily on the left half of the face and a placebo on the right half of the face. A clinical evaluation, photographs, and silicone replicas of both crow's-feet areas were taken at baseline and at weeks 12, 20, and 24. Skin replicas were then analyzed using an optical profilometry technique. The standard wrinkle and roughness features were then calculated and statistically analyzed. The tolerance profile of the product was also clinically evaluated during the study.

RESULTS

The 24 women who completed this study showed more improvement on the left side of the crow's-feet area in terms of the signs of photodamage than on the right side according to both their own (P < .001) and the investigator's (P < .05) evaluations. These results were confirmed by skin replica analyses. The average roughness showed significant improvement (P < .001). The smoothness depth was improved, but this was not statistically significant. One patient noted burning and prickling sensations, and she withdrew during the study.

LIMITATIONS

Pigmentation changes were not assessed, investigators were not blinded, and the study size was relatively small.

CONCLUSION

In this small study retinyl N-formyl aspartamate applied on a photodamaged face twice daily was significantly more effective than a placebo without severe side effects.

Repeated topical treatment, in contrast to single oral doses, with Vitamin A-containing preparations does not affect plasma concentrations of retinol, retinyl esters or retinoic acids in female subjects of child-bearing age

BACKGROUND

Vitamin A is widely used in cosmetic preparations. Given that oral Vitamin A and its metabolites present a potential reproductive risk, the present study investigated the effect of topical Vitamin A on human endogenous plasma levels of Vitamin A and its metabolites.

METHODS

Two groups of 14 female volunteers of child-bearing age were kept on a Vitamin A-poor diet and treated topically for 21 days with creams containing 0.30% retinol or 0.55% retinyl palmitate on approximately 3000 cm2 of their body surface area, amounting to a total of approximately 30,000 IU Vitamin A/subject/day. After a 12-day wash-out period, the study groups received single oral doses of 10,000 IU or 30,000 IU retinyl palmitate (RP), corresponding to the maximal EU allowance during pregnancy or three-times higher, respectively. Blood samples were collected over 24h on study days -3 (pre-study), 1, 21 (first and last days of topical treatment) and 34 (oral administration) at 0, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 12, 14-16 h and 24 h after treatment for determination of plasma concentrations of retinol (REL), retinyl palmitate (RP), oleate (RO) and stearate (RS), 9-cis-, 13-cis-, all-trans- (AT), 13-cis-4-oxo- or AT-4-oxo-retinoic acids (RAs).

RESULTS

With the exception of transient mild (RP-group) to moderate (REL-group) local irritation on the treatment sites, no adverse local or systemic effects were noted. On days 1 or 21 of topical treatment, no changes were measured in individual or group mean plasma Cmax, AUC0-24 h or other pharmacokinetic parameters of REL, retinyl esters or RAs relative to pre-study data. In contrast, single oral doses of RP at 10,000 IU or 30,000 IU produced dose-related and sustained increases in Cmax and AUC0-24 h values of plasma RP, RO, RS, 13-cis- and 13-cis-4-oxo-RAs, as well as a transient increase in AT-RA. In conclusion, our results provide evidence that human topical exposure to retinol- or retinyl ester-containing cosmetic creams at 30,000 IU/day and maximal use concentrations do not affect plasma levels of retinol, retinyl esters or RAs, whereas single oral doses at 10,000 IU or 30,000 IU produce significant increases in plasma retinyl esters and RAs.

UVA photoirradiation of retinyl palmitate—Formation of singlet oxygen and superoxide, and their role in induction of lipid peroxidation

We have previously reported that photoirradiation of retinyl palmitate (RP) in ethanol with UVA light results in the formation of photodecomposition products, including 5,6-epoxy-RP and anhydroretinol (AR). Photoirradiation in the presence of a lipid, methyl linoleate, induced lipid peroxidation, suggesting that reactive oxygen species (ROS) are formed. In the present study, we employ an electron spin resonance (ESR) spin trap technique to provide direct evidence as to whether or not photoirradiation of RP by UVA light produces ROS. Photoirradiation of RP by UVA in the presence of 2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine (TEMP), a specific probe for singlet oxygen, resulted in the formation of TEMPO, indicating that singlet oxygen was generated. Both 5,5-dimethyl N-oxide pyrroline (DMPO) and 5-tert-butoxycarbonyl 5-methyl-1-pyrroline N-oxide (BMPO) are specific probes for superoxide. When photoirradiation of RP was conducted in the presence of the DMPO or BMPO, ESR signals for DMPO-*OOH or BMPO-*OOH were obtained. These results unambiguously confirmed the formation of superoxide radical anion. Consistent with a free radical mechanism, there was a near complete and time-dependent photodecomposition of RP and its photodecomposition products. ESR studies on the photoirradiation of 5,6-epoxy-RP and AR indicate that these compounds exhibit similar photosensitizing activities as RP under UVA light.

Histological evaluation of a topically applied retinol-vitamin C combination

Two double-blind studies versus vehicle were carried out to investigate the effects of a topically applied retinol plus vitamin C combination on epidermal and dermal compartments of aged or photoaged human skin. The two studies were performed on postmenopausal women who were selected for treatment based on the mild level of elastosis of their facial skin. At completion of treatment, skin biopsies were collected and processed for classical histology and immunohistochemistry. In the first study (aged skin), 8 volunteers applied the retinol- and vitamin C-containing preparation on the ventral side of one elbow and the vehicle on the other elbow twice daily for 3 months. After the 3-month treatment we observed histological changes mainly within the epidermis. The stratum corneum was thinner with a compact pattern, whereas the epidermal proliferation increased, resulting in a thickening of the viable epidermis. Moreover, the interdigitation index was increased. In the second study (photoaged skin), 11 volunteers were divided in two groups; one applied the retinol- and vitamin C-containing preparation and the other one the vehicle on their face twice daily for 6 months. Facial skin samples presented histologic hallmarks of photoaging, i.e. accumulation of elastotic material in the papillary dermis. After the 6-month topical treatment, the observed histological changes were mainly concentrated at the dermal level. Both treated and control groups showed the same distribution pattern of type I procollagen, however, the high level of type III procollagen originally observed in photoaged skin was reduced in the retinol- and vitamin C-treated group, resulting in a lower type III-to-type I procollagen ratio. Furthermore, a wide band of eosinophilic material just beneath the epidermis, devoid of oxytalan fibers and forming the 'grenz zone', appeared more frequently and was larger in the retinol- and vitamin C-treated group. In conclusion, our results show that repeated topical application of a preparation containing both retinol and vitamin C is able to reverse, at least in part, skin changes induced by both chronologic aging and photoaging.

Novel approach to the treatment of hyperpigmented photodamaged skin: 4% hydroquinone/0.3% retinol versus tretinoin 0.05% emollient cream

BACKGROUND

Mild to moderately photodamaged skin is characterized by dyspigmentation, fine wrinkles, and tactile roughness. An optimal approach to the topical treatment of photoaging would simultaneously address all appearance issues.

OBJECTIVE

This study was undertaken to evaluate the effect of 4% hydroquinone and 0.3% retinol in photoaging.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A 16-week study was designed to evaluate the efficacy and tolerance of a single cream containing prescription topical 4% hydroquinone for dyspigmentation and the cosmeceutical 0.3% retinol for fine wrinkles in an emollient vehicle for tactile roughness. This novel formulation was compared with 0.05% tretinoin emollient cream, the standard against which all other topical photoaging treatments are compared. Investigator assessments, subject assessments, and photography represented the evaluation end points.

RESULTS

The cosmeceutical emollient 4% hydroquinone/0.3% retinol cream more effectively diminished the collective signs of photodamage than 0.05% tretinoin emollient cream in terms of dyspigmentation, fine wrinkles, and tactile roughness in 16 weeks.

CONCLUSION

Combination therapy of hydroquinone and retinol may improve photoaging-associated hyperpigmentation.

Photodecomposition of Retinyl Palmitate in Ethanol by UVA LightFormation of Photodecomposition Products, Reactive Oxygen Species, and Lipid Peroxides†

Photodecomposition of retinyl palmitate (RP), an ester and the storage form of vitamin A (retinol), in ethanol under UVA light irradiation was studied. The resulting photodecomposition products were separated by reversed-phase HPLC and identified by spectral analysis and comparison with the chromatographic and spectral properties of synthetically prepared standards. The identified products include 5,6-epoxy-RP, 4-keto-RP, 11-ethoxy-12-hydroxy-RP, 13-ethoxy-14-hydroxy-RP, anhydroretinol (AR), palmitic acid, ethyl palmitate, and four tentatively assigned cis and trans isomeric 15-ethoxy-ARs. AR was formed as a mixture of all-trans-AR, 6Z-cis-AR, 8Z-cis-AR, and 12Z-cis-AR with all-trans-AR predominating. 5,6-Epoxy-RP, 4-keto-RP, 11-ethoxy-12-hydroxy-RP, and 13-ethoxy-14-hydroxy-RP were also formed from reaction of RP with alkylperoxy radicals generated by thermal decomposition of 2,2'-azobis(2,4-dimethylvaleronitrile). Formation of these photodecomposition products was inhibited in the presence of sodium azide (NaN3), a free radical inhibitor. These results suggest that formation of 5,6-epoxy-RP, 4-keto-RP, 11-ethoxy-12-hydroxy-RP, and 13-ethoxy-14-hydroxy-RP from photoirradiation of RP is mediated by a light-initiated free radical chain reaction. AR and the isomeric 11-ethoxy-ARs were not formed from reaction of RP with alkylperoxy radicals generated from 2,2'-azobis(2,4-dimethylvaleronitrile), and their formation was not inhibited when NaN3 was present during the photoirradiation of RP. We propose that these products were formed through an ionic photodissociation mechanism, which is similar to the reported formation of AR through ionic photodissociation of retinyl acetate. RP and all its identified photodecomposition products described above (i) were not mutagenic in Salmonella typhimurium tester strains TA98, TA100, TA102, and TA104 in the presence and absence of S9 activation enzymes, (ii) were not photomutagenic in Salmonella typhimurium TA102 upon UVA irradiation, and (iii) did not bind with calf thymus DNA in the presence of microsomal metabolizing enzymes. These results suggest that RP and its decomposition products are not genotoxic; however, photoirradiation of RP, 5,6-epoxy-RP, and AR with UVA light in the presence of methyl linoleate resulted in lipid peroxide (methyl linoleate hydroperoxides) formation. The lipid peroxide formation was inhibited by dithiothreitol (DTT) (free radical scavenger), NaN3 (singlet oxygen and free radical scavenger), and superoxide dismutase (SOD) (superoxide scavenger) but was enhanced by the presence of deuterium oxide (D2O) (enhancement of singlet oxygen lifetime). These results suggest that photoirradiation of RP, 5,6-epoxy-RP, and AR by UVA light generated reactive oxygen species resulting in lipid (methyl linoleate) peroxidation.

Anti-aging products and cosmeceuticals

Topical therapies can be used as a solo treatment or as an adjunct to the various surgical options to improve upon and maintain the desired anti-aging results. They may also be used as a preventative therapy in younger men and women. Few drugs are currently marketed for the treatment and prevention of skin aging, whereas many cosmeceuticals,the fastest growing segment of the skin-care market, and herbal remedies are touted in the lay press. More than ever, patients are looking for a magical elixir that is easy to use,effective, and inexpensive. The more commonly used products are covered in this article.

Penetration and Metabolism of Topical Retinoids in ex vivo Organ-Cultured Full-Thickness Human Skin Explants

The human epidermis contains endogenous retinoids [retinol (vitamin A) and retinyl esters] and carotenoids (mostly beta-carotene). Previous studies in the mouse have shown that the enzymes involved in retinoid metabolism are present in the epidermis. In this study, we wanted to assess the skin penetration and metabolism of topical retinoids in the human. To do this, fresh surgically excised human abdominal skin was mounted on Franz perfusion cells. Topical retinoic acid, retinal, retinol and retinyl palmitate were applied at 2.5 mg/cm(2) in oil-in-water creams containing 0.05% retinoids on the donor compartment, while the receptor compartment was filled with culture medium. The skin was incubated for 24 h at 37 degrees C, then epidermal retinoid concentrations were determined by HPLC. The same experiment was performed with mouse back skin mounted on Franz cells. Finally, topical retinoids were applied on the back of hairless mice for 24 h; then the mice were sacrificed and retinoid concentrations were assayed in the epidermis. In all three models, retinol and its esters were found to be endogenous, as was the case in previous studies in the mouse in vivo. The four applied retinoids penetrated well into the epidermis. Topical retinoic acid did not increase endogenous retinoids, whereas the latter were greatly increased following topical retinal in the mouse. Retinal was also metabolized into retinoic acid, unlike topical retinol and retinyl palmitate, which only increased endogenous retinoids. Topical retinal and retinol did undergo a higher metabolism in both mouse models than in human skin. In summary, the penetration and metabolism patterns of topical retinoids were quite similar in the two mouse models used, indicating that the Franz cells appear to be a good model to predict in vivo metabolism of topical retinoids. When applying this concept to our results obtained in Franz cells with human skin, we conclude that topical retinol and retinal load human skin with both storage and functional vitamin A.

Oxidative and premature skin ageing

To elucidate the scientific state of the art with respect to the role of nutrition in skin ageing, nine experts from different disciplines discussed the role of micronutrients on 'oxidative and premature skin ageing'. In this 25th Hohenheim Consensus Meeting, 13 questions were discussed and, based on published valid data, answered by mutual agreement. The consensus answers achieved during the meeting are justified by a scientific background text. The importance of in vitro and in vivo models regarding oxidative and premature skin ageing was critically evaluated. There was a special focus on prevention and intervention of skin ageing with nutrition. Finally, the paper summarizes the scientific background from different areas related to oxidative and premature skin ageing.

Efficacy validation of synthesized retinol derivatives In vitro: stability, toxicity, and activity

Retinol (vitamin A) is used as an antiwrinkle agent in the cosmetics industry. However, its photo-instability makes it unsuitable for use in general cosmetic formulations. To improve the photo-stability of retinol, three derivatives (3, 4, and 5) were synthesized and their biological activities were analyzed. 1H NMR and HPLC analysis indicated that derivatives 3 and 5 were much more stable than retinol under our sunlight exposure conditions. When human adult fibroblasts were treated, the IC(50) of derivative 3 was 96 microM, which is similar to that of retinol, as determined by the MTT assay. Derivatives 4 and 5 were 2.5 and 8 times more toxic than retinol, respectively. At 1 microM treatment, like retinol, derivatives 3 and 4 were specifically active for RARalpha out of six retinoid receptors (RAR/RXRalpha, beta, gamma). Dose-dependent analysis confirmed that derivative 4 was as active as retinol and the other two derivatives were less active for RARalpha. The effect of our derivatives on the expression of collagenase, an indicator of wrinkle formation, was measured using the transient co-expression of c-Jun and RT-PCR in HaCaT cells. Collagenase promoter activity, which is increased by c-Jun expression, was reduced 42% by retinol treatment. The other derivatives inhibited collagenase promoter activity similarly. These results were further confirmed by RT-PCR analysis of the collagenase gene. Taken together, our results suggest that retinol derivative 3 is a promising antiwrinkle agent based on its higher photo-stability, lower RARalpha activity (possibly indicating reduced side effects), and similar effect on collagenase expression.

Modulating diseased skin with tissue engineering: actinic purpura treated with Apligraf

BACKGROUND

Actinic purpura (AP) is an important medical issue and quality of life issue in the elderly. Current treatment of AP is limited to prevention of cutaneous aging.

OBJECTIVE

To assess the utility of tissue engineered skin (Apligraf, Organogenesis, Canton, MA) as a tissue modulator in diseased skin and as treatment for AP.

METHODS

A thin partial-thickness section of AP was removed from the forearm of an elderly gentleman and replaced with fenestrated Apligraf. Healing, durability and cosmetic outcome were assessed.

RESULTS

Apligraf-treated skin healed rapidly with good clinical "take." Lack of new skin tears and resultant erosions or ulcer formation suggests improved durability of the Apligraf-treated area occurred.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that tissue engineered skin modulates aged dermal tissue to behave in a more sturdy fashion. Furthermore, in selected cases Apligraf may represent a treatment option for AP.

Cutaneous vitamins A and E in the context of ultraviolet- or chemically-induced oxidative stress

Vitamins A and E are present in mammalian skin. Although the main circulating form of vitamin A in the blood is retinol, the epidermis stores it as retinyl esters. The epidermis can be easily loaded with high amounts of vitamin A by topical application of either retinol or retinaldehyde, two well-tolerated precursors of the biologically active retinoic acid, while topical alpha-tocopherol loads the epidermis with vitamin E. The probable physiological function of epidermal vitamin E is to contribute to the antioxidant defense of the skin, whereas that of epidermal vitamin A (retinol and retinyl esters) is not yet well understood. Besides being a precursor for retinoic acid, vitamin A also has a free radical scavenging potential. Due to their physical properties, vitamins A and E absorb ultraviolet (UV) light in the region of solar spectrum that is responsible for most of the deleterious biological effects of the sun. In the mouse, topical vitamin A has been shown to prevent the UV-induced epidermal hypovitaminosis A, while topical vitamin E prevents oxidative stress and cutaneous and systemic immunosuppression elicited by UV. Thus constitutive epidermal vitamins A and E appear complementary in preventing UV-induced deleterious cutaneous and systemic effects, and these properties can be reinforced by topical application of retinol or retinaldehyde and topical alpha-tocopherol.

A randomized, placebo-controlled trial of topical retinol in the treatment of cellulite

BACKGROUND

Cellulite occurs to varying degrees on the thighs and buttocks of many otherwise healthy women. Among the many purported treatments for cellulite, only a handful have been tested in clinical trials.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to critically explore the reputed effect of topical retinol in the treatment of cellulite.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The study compared the effect of topical retinol to a placebo formulation in a left-right randomized trial in order to eliminate the massage-effect. The study was conducted in 15 women aged from 26 to 44 years who had requested liposuction to improve mild to moderate cellulite.

RESULTS

After 6-months of treatment, skin elasticity was increased by 10.7% while viscosity was decreased by 15.8% at the retinol-treated site. Such an effect on the tensile properties of skin was more prominent where the mattress phenomenon was the only evidence of cellulite. The lumpy-bumpy appearance of the skin showed either little response or was not responsive to the treatment. Although gross microanatomical differences were not disclosed between the comparative sites at completion of the study, evidence for a shift in the phenotype of connective tissue cells was obtained. The main retinol-related change consisted of a 2- to 5-fold increase in the number of factor XIIIa+ dendrocytes both in the dermis and fibrous strands of the hypodermis.

CONCLUSIONS

We hypothesize that the functional and phenotypic changes seen in this study were linked and represent the result of a direct or indirect modulating effect of retinol on cellulite. Such features ultimately improve the resting tensions inside the skin which should in turn smooth the skin surface.

Cosmeceuticals

The author uses kinetin, a plant-derived nucleotide, as an example to summarize the approach to advising a patient on a new product. (1) Does it penetrate the stratum corneum? Topically applied nucleotides can penetrate human skin, and one of the most active and useful of these for the treatment of actinic keratoses, 5-fluorouracil (5-FU), is used widely in dermatology. 5-FU derives some of its benefit from its uptake, specifically in actinic keratoses, which do not have a complete epidermal barrier. The molecule is able to penetrate the stratum corneum. It is not clear that topically applied nucleotides have the same degree of penetration on photodamaged skin without actinic keratoses. (2) Is there a plausible biochemical mechanism of action? 5-FU has a well-known mechanism of action (i.e., the inhibition of DNA/RNA synthesis by incorporation of a false pyrimidine analog). The mechanism of action for furfuryladenine in human skin remains unknown and needs to be shown. If furfuryladenine functions as an antioxidant, it may be useful as a photoprotectant. This function does not account for a mechanism of action for the reversal of photoaging, however. (3) Are there published peer-reviewed, double-blinded, placebo-controlled, statistically significant clinical trials to substantiate the efficacy claim? Peer-reviewed, double-blinded, statistically significant clinical trials on furfuryladenine have not been published to date. The field of cosmeceuticals presents a quandary. The list of cosmeceuticals for the dermatologist to assess grows longer each year. It is possible that some of the active ingredients are beneficial physiologically in human skin and that they can offer specific benefits, such as photoprotection. Further research needs to be conducted to validate these claims. It also is likely that a wide variety of molecules purported to be active in human skin do not have any physiologic benefit in human skin. Only further research can answer these difficult questions.

Vitamin A loaded solid lipid nanoparticles for topical use: occlusive properties and drug targeting to the upper skin

To evaluate the potential use of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) in dermatology and cosmetics, glyceryl behenate SLN loaded with vitamin A (retinol and retinyl palmitate) and incorporated in a hydrogel and o/w-cream were tested with respect to their influence on drug penetration into porcine skin. Conventional formulations served for comparison. Excised full thickness skin was mounted in Franz diffusion cells and the formulations were applied for 6 and 24 h, respectively. Vitamin A concentrations in the skin tissue suggested a certain drug localizing effect. High retinol concentrations were found in the upper skin layers following SLN preparations, whereas the deeper regions showed only very low vitamin A levels. Because of a polymorphic transition of the lipid carrier with subsequent drug expulsion following the application to the skin, the drug localizing action appears to be limited for 6-24 h. Best results were obtained with retinol SLN incorporated in the oil-in-water (o/w) cream retarding drug expulsion. The penetration of the occlusion sensitive drug retinyl palmitate was even more influenced by SLN incorporation. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the influence of drug free SLN on retinyl palmitate uptake exclude pronounced occlusive effects. Therefore enhanced retinyl palmitate uptake should derive from specific SLN effects and is not due to non-specific occlusive properties.

New and emerging treatments for photoaging

It is easy to become too busy treating the sequelae of photoaging, actinic keratoses, and skin cancers to discuss prevention adequately with patients. With children, sun-protective measures and sunscreen information should be the main therapeutic intervention. In any young adult with an actinic keratosis or skin cancer, topical and resurfacing treatments should be considered. In older patients with fragile skin and solar purpura, reversal of photodamage can have a positive effect on daily functioning.

Tolerance profile of retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid under maximized and long-term clinical conditions

BACKGROUND

Topical retinoic acid (RA) causes irritation of the skin. To prevent this side effect, natural precursors of RA have been proposed. The aim of the present study was to compare the local tolerance profiles of retinol (ROL), retinaldehyde (RAL) and RA.

METHODS

ROL, RAL and RA were studied using repeated insult patch tests for 14 days (n = 6). Similarly, RAL and RA were assessed in long-term clinical use for 44 weeks (n = 355). Clinical scoring on irritation, measurement of transepidermal water loss (barrier function) and laser Doppler blood flow perfusion units (irritation) were performed.

RESULTS

Under maximized conditions, an equally low irritation potential for ROL and RAL and a more pronounced irritant effect with RA could be demonstrated clinically (p < 0.05 in the intergroup analysis). Furthermore, RAL and RA induced more scaling than ROL (p < 0.05), and ROL and RA tended to induce more burning/pruritus than RAL (nonsignificant). The TEWL values were low with ROL and high with RAL and RA (nonsignificant, intergroup analysis). The laser Doppler measurements confirmed pro-irritating effects of RA and the nonirritating effects of ROL and RAL (p = 0. 001, intergroup analysis). The long-term clinical study showed that the study population developed a high frequency of erythema (44% of the population), scaling (35%) and burning/pruritus (29%) with RA in the first 4 weeks of treatment, whereas these 3 parameters were significantly less frequent with RAL (p < 0.0001 in the intergroup analysis).

CONCLUSION

The natural retinoids ROL and RAL do have a good tolerance profile, in contrast with the irritating potential of RA.