Mechanism of depigmentation by hydroquinone

Update on Melasma Treatments

Melasma is a prevalent hyperpigmentation condition known for its challenging treatment due to its resemblance to photoaged skin disorders. Numerous studies have shed light on the intricate nature of melasma, which often bears similarity to photoaging disorders. Various therapeutic approaches, encompassing topical and systemic treatments, chemical peeling, and laser therapy, have exhibited efficacy in managing melasma in previous research. However, melasma often reoccurs despite successful treatment, primarily due to its inherent photoaged properties. Given that melasma shares features with photoaging disorders, including disruptions in the basement membrane, solar elastosis, angiogenesis, and mast cell infiltration in the dermal layer, a comprehensive treatment strategy is imperative. Such an approach might involve addressing epidermal hyperpigmentation while concurrently restoring dermal components. In this article, we provide a comprehensive review of conventional treatment methods frequently employed in clinical practice, as well as innovative treatments currently under development for melasma management. Additionally, we offer an extensive overview of the pathogenesis of melasma.

Management of Melasma: Laser and Other Therapies-Review Study

Melasma is a commonly occurring pigmented skin condition that can significantly affect one's appearance, described as symmetric hyperpigmentation that presents as irregular brown to gray-brown macules on various facial areas, such as the cheeks, forehead, nasal bridge, and upper lip, along with the mandible and upper arms. Due to its complex pathogenesis and recurrent nature, melasma management is challenging and the outcomes following treatment are not always deemed satisfactory. Solely treating hyperpigmentation may prove ineffective unless paired with regenerative techniques and photoprotection, since one of the main reasons for recurrence is sun exposure. Hence, the treatment protocol starts with addressing risk factors, implementing stringent UV protection, and then treatment using different strategies, like applying topical treatments, employing chemical peels, laser and light therapies, microneedling, and systemic therapy. This review aims to provide a summary of the effectiveness and safety of the frequently employed laser and light therapies for treating melasma, focusing on laser therapy as a treatment for melasma.

Valorization of biomass polyphenols as potential tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinases (TYRs; EC 1.14.18.1) catalyze two sequential oxidative reactions of the melanin biosynthesis pathway and play an important role in mammalian pigmentation and enzymatic browning of fruit and vegetables. Inhibition of TYR activity is therefore an attractive target for new drugs and/or food ingredients. In addition, increasing evidence suggests that TYR regulation could be a novel target for treatments of cancer and Parkinson's disease. Biomasses, notably industrial byproducts and biowaste, are good sustainable sources of phytochemicals that may be valorized into bioactive compounds including TYR inhibitors. This review presents potential applications of biomass-derived polyphenols targeting TYR inhibition. Insights into structure-activity relationships of several polyphenols and their glycosides are highlighted. Finally, some remarks and perspectives on research into new TYR inhibitors from biomass waste are provided.

Topical Hydroquinone for Hyperpigmentation: A Narrative Review

Topical hydroquinone (HQ) has been used for decades to treat disorders of hyperpigmentation such as melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and solar lentigines. Additionally, it has been used as a skin-lightening agent for cosmetic purposes. Multiple studies have shown it to be effective in treating hyperpigmentation, though it is not without side effects. Currently, HQ is not approved for over-the-counter use in the United States. Its use is also banned in other countries, including Japan, Australia, and the European Union. Hyperpigmentation disorders affect individuals worldwide. Patients with these disorders are frequently seen in medical practices. Hyperpigmentation disorders can significantly negatively impact a person's quality of life, and agents that treat hyperpigmentation can improve patient outcomes. A comprehensive literature search was performed on HQ as a treatment for skin hyperpigmentation disorders. A literature review revealed that HQ is an effective compound for treating hyperpigmentation disorders and can be combined with other therapies for enhanced results. Evidence exists to support HQ as a topical therapy for skin hyperpigmentation. HQ is not without side effects and should be prescribed by trained professionals who can educate patients on usage. HQ can be used in pharmaceutical regimens to treat hyperpigmentation disorders.

Anhydrous Alum Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis by Down-Regulating MITF via Dual Modulation of CREB and ERK

Melanogenesis, the intricate process of melanin synthesis, is central to skin pigmentation and photoprotection and is regulated by various signaling pathways and transcription factors. To develop potential skin-whitening agents, we used B16F1 melanoma cells to investigate the inhibitory effects of anhydrous alum on melanogenesis and its underlying molecular mechanisms. Anhydrous alum (KAl(SO4)2) with high purity (>99%), which is generated through the heat-treatment of hydrated alum (KAl(SO4)2·12H2O) at 400 °C, potentiates a significant reduction in melanin content without cytotoxicity. Anhydrous alum downregulates the master regulator of melanogenesis, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), which targets key genes involved in melanogenesis, thereby inhibiting α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis. Phosphorylation of the cAMP response element-binding protein, which acts as a co-activator of MITF gene expression, is attenuated by anhydrous alum, resulting in compromised MITF transcription. Notably, anhydrous alum promoted extracellular signal-regulated kinase phosphorylation, leading to the impaired nuclear localization of MITF. Overall, these results demonstrated the generation and mode of action of anhydrous alum in B16F1 cells, which constitutes a promising option for cosmetic or therapeutic use.

A Review on the Antimutagenic and Anticancer Effects of Cysteamine

Cancer is one of the leading causes of death worldwide. First-line treatments usually include surgery, radiotherapy, and/or systemic therapy. These methods can be associated with serious adverse events and can be toxic to healthy cells. Despite the new advances in cancer therapies, there is still a continuous need for safe and effective therapeutic agents. Cysteamine is an aminothiol endogenously synthetized by human cells during the degradation of coenzyme-A. It has been safely used in humans for the treatment of several pathologies including cystinosis and neurodegenerative diseases. Cysteamine has been shown to be a potent antimutagenic, anticarcinogenic, and antimelanoma in various in vitro and in vivo studies, but a review on these aspects of cysteamine's use in medicine is lacking in the current literature. The efficacy of cysteamine has been shown in vitro and in vivo for the treatment of different types of cancer, such as gastrointestinal cancer, pancreatic cancer, sarcomas, hepatocellular carcinoma, and melanoma, leading to the significant reduction of lesions and/or the increase of survival time. Although the mechanisms of action are not fully understood, possible explanations are (i) free radical scavenging, (ii) alteration of the tumor cell proliferation by affecting nucleic acid and protein synthesis or inhibition of DNA synthesis, and (iii) hormone regulation. In conclusion, regarding the high safety profile of cysteamine and the current literature data presented in this article, cysteamine might be considered as an interesting molecule for the prevention and the treatment of cancer. Further clinical studies should be performed to support these data in humans.

Photoaging and Topical Rejuvenation

Photoaging is a complex process of skin changes associated with chronic ultraviolet exposure. Prevention with photoprotection and treatment with topical retinoids are the core components of a topical antiaging regimen. Other topicals such as hydroquinone, vitamin C, niacinamide, and alpha hydroxyl acid can be added based on specific concerns. However, caution must be used with some of these products as the stability and absorption are major considerations. A simple topical regimen will reduce irritability and enhance compliance.

Split-face comparison of hydroquinone 4% plus nitrogen plasma vs. hydroquinone 4% alone in the treatment of melasma

Treatment of skin diseases is important yet challenging. One of the most common skin diseases in women is melasma, which features acquired facial hyperpigmentation. We studied the effect of cold atmospheric nitrogen plasma on this disease. To characterize the nitrogen plasma, we obtained the relative intensity of the species and the plasma temperature and skin temperature during processing at different input powers and gas flows. Patients complaining of melasma were treated with hydroquinone on both sides of the face, and one side was randomly selected for additional nitrogen plasma therapy. Eight treatment sessions of plasma processing were provided 1 week apart, and one follow-up session was scheduled 1 month after the end of treatment. The rate of improvement was scored by a dermatologist in the eighth session and 1 month following the last session using the modified Melasma Area Severity Index (mMASI). Skin biomechanical characteristics such as melanin, cutaneous resonance running time (CRRT), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and hydration were measured at baseline and during the fourth, eighth, and follow-up sessions. On both sides, we observed a significant decrease in both CRRT and melanin (P < 0.05). TEWL did not change on both sides, while hydration decreased significantly only on the side to which hydroquinone was applied in isolation (P < 0.05). According to clinical scores, on both sides, we had significant improvement. On the side that plasma was not applied, the percentage reduction of pigmentation (mMASI) in the eighth and follow-up sessions in comparison with the baseline was 5.49 ± 8.50% and 33.04 ± 9.17%, respectively, while on the other side, these figures were 20.57 ± 6.64% and 48.11 ± 11%. For melanin, these figures were 13.84 ± 4.84% and 18.23 ± 7.10% on the hydroquinone side and 21.56 ± 3.13% and 23.93 ± 3.02% on the other side. According to these results, nitrogen plasma can safely complement topical hydroquinone to improve clinical outcomes when treating melasma without causing stratum corneum damage or skin discomfort, though confirmatory studies are needed.

Methoxyflavones from Black Ginger (Kaempferia parviflora Wall. ex Baker) and their Inhibitory Effect on Melanogenesis in B16F10 Mouse Melanoma Cells

Kaempferia parviflora Wall. ex Baker (Zingiberaceae), commonly known as Thai ginseng or black ginger, is a tropical medicinal plant in many regions. It has been traditionally used to treat various ailments, including ulcers, dysentery, gout, allergies, abscesses, and osteoarthritis. As part of our ongoing phytochemical study aimed at discovering bioactive natural products, we investigated potential bioactive methoxyflavones from K. parviflora rhizomes. Phytochemical analysis aided by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) led to the isolation of six methoxyflavones (1-6) from the n-hexane fraction of the methanolic extract of K. parviflora rhizomes. The isolated compounds were structurally determined to be 3,7-dimethoxy-5-hydroxyflavone (1), 5-hydroxy-7-methoxyflavone (2), 7,4'-dimethylapigenin (3), 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (4), 3,7,4'-trimethylkaempferol (5), and 5-hydroxy-3,7,3',4'-tetramethoxyflavone (6), based on NMR data and LC-MS analysis. All of the isolated compounds were evaluated for their anti-melanogenic activities. In the activity assay, 7,4'-dimethylapigenin (3) and 3,5,7-trimethoxyflavone (4) significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin content in IBMX-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, structure-activity relationship analysis revealed that the methoxy group at C-5 in methoxyflavones is key to their anti-melanogenic activity. This study experimentally demonstrated that K. parviflora rhizomes are rich in methoxyflavones and can be a valuable natural resource for anti-melanogenic compounds.

Ellagic acid as a potent anticancer drug: A comprehensive review on in vitro, in vivo, in silico, and drug delivery studies

Ellagic acid as a polyphenol or micronutrient, which can be naturally found in different vegetables and fruits, has gained considerable attention for cancer therapy due to considerable biological activities and different molecular targets. Ellagic acid with low hydrolysis and lipophilic and hydrophobic nature is not able to be absorbed in circulation. So, accumulation inside the intestinal epithelial cells or metabolization to other urolithins leads to the limitation of direct evaluation of EA effects in clinical studies. This review focuses on the studies which supported anticancer activity of pure or fruit-extracted ellagic acid through in vitro, in vivo, in silico, and drug delivery methods. The results demonstrate ellagic acid modulates the expression of various genes incorporated in the cancer-related process of apoptosis and proliferation, inflammation related-gens, and oxidative-related genes. Moreover, the ellagic acid formulation in carriers composed of lipid, silica, chitosan, iron- bovine serum albumin nanoparticles obviously enhanced the stable release and confident delivery with minimum loss. Also, in silico analysis proved that ellagic acid was able to be placed at a position of cocrystal ADP, in the deep cavity of the protein target, and tightly interact with binding pocket residues leading to suppression of substrate availability of protein and its activation inhibition.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Combining the use of two non-invasive instruments to confirm that a formula can improve skin luminance while respecting constitutive melanogenesis

INTRODUCTION

Skin radiance products achieve perceivable benefits with different sort of mechanism of action.

AIMS

To use two non-invasive instrumental devices to evaluate the effectiveness of a cosmetic formula designed to improve skin reflectance while respecting skin integrity.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Subjects (N = 43) aged 18-50 years old had healthy skin of phototype V-VI and Individual Typology Angle between -10° and -50°. The treatment was applied twice weekly for 4 weeks on a delineated area of the back, and an adjacent area was left untreated. Instrumental and clinical scoring assessments of treated and untreated skin were performed at baseline and Day 26.

RESULTS

Between baseline and Day 26, reflectance (Delta L*) increased by 1.27 points and was considered as clinically relevant. Dermatologist clinical scoring of radiance significantly improved from 2.6 to 3.6 after 4 weeks of treatment and the Skin Color Chart Clarity level significantly decreased from a score of 15.5 to 14.3, representing a skin reflectance improvement. Conversely, the change between baseline and Day 26 in Mexameter Melanin Density was not clinically different for treated skin versus untreated skin (difference of 2.54). At Day 26, changes from baseline for Mexameter Melanin Density and Delta L* parameters appeared to be uncorrelated (r = -0.036).

CONCLUSIONS

This combination of two non-invasive devices can be useful to confirm that a product can modulate skin reflectance without modifying constitutive pigmentation. The formula tested in this study did not interfere with constitutive melanogenesis.

Molecular Action Mechanism of Coixol from Soft-Shelled Adlay on Tyrosinase: The Future of Cosmetics

Coix lacryma-jobi var. ma-yuen L. Gramineae is widely cultivated in Taiwan. Literature regarding the molecular action mechanism of coixol on tyrosinase and the application of coicis seed extracts to the processing of facial masks is still lacking. Solvent extractability analysis revealed that most of the polyphenolics in coicis seeds were water soluble (3.17 ± 0.12 to 3.63 ± 0.07 μg/mLGAE). In contrast, the methanolic extract contained the most flavonoids (0.06 ± 0.00~0.26 ± 0.03 μg/mL QE) and coixol (11.43 ± 0.13~12.83 ± 0.14 μg/mL), showing potent antioxidant capability. Additionally, the contents of coixenolide (176.77 ± 5.91 to 238.60 ± 0.21 μg/g), phytosterol (52.45 ± 2.05 to 58.23 ± 1.14 mg/g), and polysaccharides (3.42 ± 0.10 to 4.41 ± 0.10 mg/g) were rather high. The aqueous extract (10 μg/mL) and the ethanolic extract (1 mg/mL) showed no cytotoxicity to B16F10 melanocytes. More attractively, the ethanolic extract at 1 mg/mL caused 48.4% inhibition of tyrosinase activity in B16F10 melanocytes, and 50.7% on human tyrosinase (hTyr) fragment 369–377. Conclusively, the coicis seed extracts containing abundant nutraceuticals with promising anti-hTyr activity and moisturizing capability can serve as good ingredients for facial mask processing.

Hirsutanone Isolated from the Bark of Alnus japonica Attenuates Melanogenesis via Dual Inhibition of Tyrosinase Activity and Expression of Melanogenic Proteins

Hirsutanone (Hir) and oregonin (Ore) are diarylheptanoids isolated from the bark of Alnus japonica. In this study, we investigated the anti-melanogenic activity of Hir and Ore in B16-F1 murine melanoma and normal human epidermal melanocytes (HEMn-DP) and elucidated the mechanisms of action. In B16-F1 cells, Hir and Ore suppressed melanin synthesis induced by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) without cytotoxicity. The inhibitory effect of Hir on melanin synthesis was much stronger than that of Ore. In addition, Hir reduced melanin content in HEMn-DP cells. As tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin synthesis, the effect of Hir on tyrosinase activity was assessed. The results demonstrated that Hir partially decreased tyrosinase activity and intracellular tyrosinase activity. Moreover, Hir suppressed the protein expression of melanogenic enzymes, including tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2, leading to reduced melanin biosynthesis. Hir also led to the suppression of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) phosphorylation and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) expression, which control the expression of melanogenic enzymes. These results suggest that Hir suppressed melanin synthesis by dual inhibition of tyrosinase activity and the CREB/MITF pathway leading to the expression of melanogenic enzymes and may be a potent cosmetic and therapeutic agent for hyperpigmentation disorders.

A Novel Class of Potent Anti-Tyrosinase Compounds with Antioxidant Activity, 2-(Substituted phenyl)-5-(trifluoromethyl)benzo[d]thiazoles: In Vitro and In Silico Insights

Sixteen compounds bearing a benzothiazole moiety were synthesized as potential tyrosinase inhibitors and evaluated for mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The compound 4-(5-(trifluoromethyl)benzo[d]thiazol-2-yl)benzene-1,3-diol (compound 1b) exhibited the highest tyrosinase activity inhibition, with an IC₅₀ value of 0.2 ± 0.01 μM (a potency 55-fold greater than kojic acid). In silico results using mushroom tyrosinase and human tyrosinase showed that the 2,4-hydroxyl substituents on the phenyl ring of 1b played an important role in the inhibition of both tyrosinases. Kinetic studies on mushroom tyrosinase indicated that 1b is a competitive inhibitor of monophenolase and diphenolase, and this was supported by docking results. In B16F10 murine melanoma cells, 1a and 1b dose-dependently and significantly inhibited melanin production intracellularly, and melanin release into medium more strongly than kojic acid, and these effects were attributed to the inhibition of cellular tyrosinase. Furthermore, the inhibition of melanin production by 1b was found to be partially due to the inhibition of tyrosinase glycosylation and the suppression of melanogenesis-associated genes. Compound 1c, which has a catechol group, exhibited potent antioxidant activities against ROS, DPPH, and ABTS, and 1b also had strong ROS and ABTS radical scavenging activities. These results suggest that 5-(trifluoromethyl)benzothiazole derivatives are promising anti-tyrosinase lead compounds with potent antioxidant effects.

Spreading of Dangerous Skin-Lightening Products as a Result of Colourism: A Review

The use of bleaching products can have a medical or cosmetic purpose; in the latter case, skin whitening is most widespread in countries where darker skin tones prevail and can be driven by psychosocial, cultural and economic reasons. Skin-whitening products containing highly toxic active ingredients (in particular mercury derivatives, hydroquinone and corticosteroids) are easily found on the market; the use of these depigmenting agents can be followed by a variety of adverse effects, with very serious and sometimes fatal complications, and is currently an emerging health concern in many countries. This article concisely discusses the reasons for the current prevalence of skin lightening products and provides an overview of the skin lightening agents that pose a threat to human health. The review also reports market surveillance data on the circulation of banned skin lighteners in Europe, obtained through the Safety Gate system.

Functional Characterization of Melanin Decolorizing Extracellular Peroxidase of Bjerkandera adusta

Melanin pigmentation in the human skin results from complicated cellular mechanisms that remain to be entirely understood. Uneven melanin pigmentation has been counteracted by inhibiting synthesis or transfer of melanin in the skin. Recently, an enzymatic approach has been proposed, wherein the melanin in the skin is decolorized using lignin peroxidase. However, not many enzymes are available for decolorizing melanin; the most studied one is lignin peroxidase derived from a lignin degrading fungus, Phanerochaete chrysosporium. Our current study reveals that versatile peroxidase from Bjerkandera adusta can decolorize synthetic melanin. Melanin decolorization was found to be dependent on veratryl alcohol and hydrogen peroxide, but not on Mn²⁺. The degree of decolorization reached over 40% in 10 min at 37 °C and a pH of 4.5. Optimized storage conditions were slightly different from those for the reaction; crude enzyme preparation was the most stable at 25 °C at pH 5.5. Since the enzyme rapidly lost its activity at 50 °C, stabilizers were screened. As a result, glycerol, a major component in several cosmetic formulations, was found to be a promising excipient. Our results suggest that B. adusta versatile peroxidase can be considered for future cosmetic applications aimed at melanin decolorization.

Melanogenesis and Melasma Treatment

Melanocytes are highly specialised dendritic cells that transfer melanin to keratinocytes in subcellular lysosome-like organelles called melanosomes, where melanin is synthesised and stored. Melanin is a complex pigment that provides colour and photoprotection to the skin, hair, and eyes of mammals. The regulation of melanogenesis includes various mechanisms and factors including genetic, environmental, and endocrine factors. Knowledge of the pigmentation process is important not only to understand hyperpigmentation but also to design treatments and therapies to treat them. Whitening cosmetics with anti-melanogenesis activity are very popular. In the present manuscript, we review the mechanisms and the signalling pathways involved in skin pigmentation and we specifically focus on the alteration of melanogenesis that leads to melasma and results in hyperpigmentation. Finally, current therapies and treatments including topical, oral, and phototherapies are discussed and described, with a special emphasis on the cosmetics’ action.

Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties

Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products.

Differential diagnosis and management of hyperpigmentation

There is an increasing recognition of ethnic dermatology to reflect the increase in skin of colour (SOC) populations in the UK. Hyperpigmentary disorder is one of the commonest skin concerns in SOC but there has been limited training available in this field of dermatology. Variations in skin colour are genetically determined by the amount of melanin content, the eumelanin/pheomelanin ratio and the size of melanosomes, but is also influenced by other factors such as hormones and extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet radiation. Hyperpigmentation is a broad term to describe increased pigmentation in the skin, and making a correct diagnosis is an important first step in the successful management of hyperpigmentary disorders. A systematic approach based on the disease pathogenesis (e.g. reactive vs. nonreactive, increased melanin vs. increased number of cells or epidermal vs. dermal pigmentation) aided by a detailed history and clinical examination is the best way to diagnose a hyperpigmentary disorder. Based on its pathogenesis, management can be planned. For epidermal hyperpigmentation caused by increased melanin, topical skin-lightening agents targeting inhibition of tyrosinase or melanosome transfer and promotion of keratinocyte turnover can be used. Hydroquinone-containing cream is the gold-standard treatment for epidermal hyperpigmentation. Alternative treatments include laser toning or chemical peels. However, increased dermal pigmentation is more challenging to target with topical treatments. If hyperpigmentation is due to increased numbers of melanocytes or keratinocytes, high-fluence laser is the most appropriate treatment method.

In vitro anti-melanogenic effects of chimeric compounds, 2-(substituted benzylidene)-1,3-indanedione derivatives with a β-phenyl-α, β -unsaturated dicarbonyl scaffold

Tyrosinase is considered a key contributor to melanogenesis, and safe, potent tyrosinase inhibitors are needed for medical and cosmetic purposes to treat skin hyperpigmentation and prevent fruit and vegetable browning. According to our accumulated SAR data on tyrosinase inhibitors, the β-phenyl-α,β-unsaturated carbonyl scaffold in either E or Z configurations, can confer potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity. In this study, twelve indanedione derivatives were synthesized as chimeric compounds with a β-phenyl-α,β-unsaturated dicarbonyl scaffold. Two of these derivatives, that is, compounds 2 and 3 (85% and 96% inhibition, respectively), at 50 μM inhibited mushroom tyrosinase markedly more potently than kojic acid (49% inhibition). Docking studies predicted that compounds 2 and 3 both inhibited tyrosinase competitively, and these findings were supported by Lineweaver-Burk plots. In addition, both compounds inhibited tyrosinase activity and reduced melanin contents in B16F10 cells more than kojic acid without perceptible cytotoxicity. These results support the notion that chimeric compounds with the β-phenyl-α,β-unsaturated dicarbonyl scaffold represent promising starting points for the development of potent tyrosinase inhibitors.

Hydroquinone: myths and reality

Hydroquinone has pharmacological uses in disorders of pigmentation because of its ability to competitively inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase. Our contemporary review presents the strongest evidence supporting the use of hydroquinone with the most effective and tolerable formulations combining hydroquinone, retinoid and corticosteroid (modified Kligman formula or 'triple combination cream'). The risk of exogenous ochronosis is low if prescribed concentrations of ≤ 5 for a limited period with regular monitoring. Dermatologists should reassure patients that with controlled use, hydroquinone can be well-tolerated and safe for a range of hyperpigmentary conditions.

Chemical Reactivities of ortho-Quinones Produced in Living Organisms: Fate of Quinonoid Products Formed by Tyrosinase and Phenoloxidase Action on Phenols and Catechols

Tyrosinase catalyzes the oxidation of phenols and catechols (o-diphenols) to o-quinones. The reactivities of o-quinones thus generated are responsible for oxidative browning of plant products, sclerotization of insect cuticle, defense reaction in arthropods, tunichrome biochemistry in tunicates, production of mussel glue, and most importantly melanin biosynthesis in all organisms. These reactions also form a set of major reactions that are of nonenzymatic origin in nature. In this review, we summarized the chemical fates of o-quinones. Many of the reactions of o-quinones proceed extremely fast with a half-life of less than a second. As a result, the corresponding quinone production can only be detected through rapid scanning spectrophotometry. Michael-1,6-addition with thiols, intramolecular cyclization reaction with side chain amino groups, and the redox regeneration to original catechol represent some of the fast reactions exhibited by o-quinones, while, nucleophilic addition of carboxyl group, alcoholic group, and water are mostly slow reactions. A variety of catecholamines also exhibit side chain desaturation through tautomeric quinone methide formation. Therefore, quinone methide tautomers also play a pivotal role in the fate of numerous o-quinones. Armed with such wide and dangerous reactivity, o-quinones are capable of modifying the structure of important cellular components especially proteins and DNA and causing severe cytotoxicity and carcinogenic effects. The reactivities of different o-quinones involved in these processes along with special emphasis on mechanism of melanogenesis are discussed.

Effects of various doses of glutathione on the proliferation, viability, migration, and ultrastructure of cultured human melanocytes

Normal human cultured melanocytes were exposed to various glutathione concentrations (0.1, 0.5, 1.0, 5.0, and 10.0 mg/mL) for 72 hours. At the end of the experiment, proliferation, viability, migration, and ultrastructural changes were monitored. Glutathione at the doses of 0.5 to 10.0 mg/mL reduced the viability of melanocytes significantly as compared to the control (P < .05). Glutathione significantly reduced the proliferation of melanocytes at the doses of 0.5 to 10.0 mg/mL as compared to the control (P < .001). Glutathione at 0.5 to 10.0 mg/mL significantly reduced the migration of melanocytes as compared to the control (P < .001). The percentage of mature melanosomes was 53.43% in control and 50.58%, 41.83%, 33.4%, and 8.95% in 0.1, 0.5, 1.0, and 5.0 mg/mL glutathione exposed cells, respectively. This reduction in the number of mature melanosomes was statistically significant as compared to the control. However, no cytotoxic effects were recognized by electron micrographs. These results encourage the potential implementation of glutathione as a skin-lightening agent. However, this study is limited by cell culture and ultrastructural. It should therefore be expanded in the future to include patients with pigmentary disorders.

Topical treatment strategies to manipulate human skin pigmentation

Skin pigmentation is a result of melanin produced by melanocytes in the epidermis. Melanocyte activity, along with the type and distribution of melanins, is the main driver for diversity of skin pigmentation. Dark melanin acts to protect against the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation, including photo-aging and skin cancer formation. In turn, UV radiation activates skin melanocytes to induce further pigmentation (i.e., "tanning pathway"). The well-characterized MSH/MC1R-cAMP-MITF pathway regulates UV-induced melanization. Pharmacologic activation of this pathway ("sunless tanning") represents a potential strategy for skin cancer prevention, particularly in those with light skin or the "red hair" phenotype who tan poorly after UV exposure due to MC1R inactivating polymorphisms. Skin hyperpigmentation can also occur as a result of inflammatory processes and dermatological disorders such as melasma. While primarily of cosmetic concern, these conditions can dramatically impact quality of life of affected patients. Several topical agents are utilized to treat skin pigmentation disorders. Here, we review melanogenesis induced by UV exposure and the agents that target this pathway.

Functional Analysis of Macromolecular Polysaccharides: Whitening, Moisturizing, Anti-Oxidant, and Cell Proliferation

In this research we utilized extracts from two different nature products, Achatina fulica and Heimiella retispora, to enhance skin moisturizing abilities, anti-oxidative properties, and cell proliferations. It was observed that two polysaccharides with anti-oxidative effects by chelating metal ions reduced oxidative stress and further blocked the formation of reactive oxygen species syntheses. To detect whether there was a similar effect within the cellular mechanism, a flow cytometry was applied for sensing the oxidative level and it was found that both materials inhibited the endogenous oxidative stress, which was induced by phorbol-12-myristate-13-acetate (PMA). Both polysaccharides also stimulated the production of collagen to maintain skin tightness and a moisturizing effect. In summary, we developed two macromolecular polysaccharides with potential applications in dermal care.

Hydroxyl substituted benzoic acid/cinnamic acid derivatives: Tyrosinase inhibitory kinetics, anti-melanogenic activity and molecular docking studies

The inhibition of tyrosinase is an established strategy for treating hyperpigmentation. Our previous findings demonstrated that cinnamic acid and benzoic acid scaffolds can be effective tyrosinase inhibitors with low toxicity. The hydroxyl substituted benzoic and cinnamic acid moieties of these precursors were incorporated into new chemotypes that displayed in vitro inhibitory effect against mushroom tyrosinase. The most active compound, (2-(3-methoxyphenoxy)-2-oxoethyl (E)-3-(4-hydroxyphenyl) acrylate) 6c, inhibited tyrosinase with an IC₅₀ of 5.7 µM, while (2-(3-methoxyphenoxy)-2-oxoethyl 2, 4-dihydroxybenzoate) 4d had an IC₅₀ of 23.8 µM. In comparison, the positive control, kojic acid showed tyrosinase inhibition with an IC₅₀ = 16.7 µM. Analysis of enzyme kinetics revealed that 6c and 4d displayed noncompetitive reversible inhibition of the second tyrosinase enzymatic reaction with K_i values of 11 µM and 130 µM respectively. In silico docking studies with mushroom tyrosinase (PDB ID 2Y9X) predicted possible binding modes in the catalytic site for these active compounds. The phenolic para-hydroxy group of the most active compound 6c is predicted to interact with the catalytic site Cu⁺⁺ ion. The methoxy part of this compound is predicted to form a hydrogen bond with Arg 268. Compound 6c had no observable toxic effects on cell morphology or cell viability at the highest tested concentration of 91.4 µM. When dosed at 91.4 µM onto B16F10 melanoma cells in vitro6c showed anti-melanogenic effects equivalent to kojic acid at 880 µM. 6c displayed no PAINS (pan-assay interference compounds) alerts. Our results show that compound 6c is a more potent tyrosinase inhibitor than kojic acid and is a candidate for further development. Our exposition of the details of the interactions between 6c and the catalytic pocket of tyrosinase provides a basis for rational design of additional potent inhibitors of tyrosinase, built on the cinnamic acid scaffold.

Parry-Romberg syndrome treatment with fat transfer and a new bleaching formula

Parry-Romberg syndrome is a hemifacial atrophy which can be complicated by melasma. We present two cases of Parry-Romberg syndrome, treated by fat transfer and bleaching of the skin using a modified "Kligman's formula." The atrophy, as well as the skin dyschromia, improved, and the results were stable.

3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid: Characterisation and investigation of single solvent systems for delivery to the skin

l-ascorbic acid (AA), commonly known as vitamin C, has been widely used in topical formulations for many years as an antioxidant and anti-aging ingredient. However, the physicochemical properties of AA are not optimal for skin uptake and the molecule is also unstable, readily undergoing oxidation on exposure to air. The compound 3-o-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid (EA) has been developed as a stable vitamin C derivative and has been used in topical products. The aims of this work were to conduct a comprehensive characterisation of physicochemical properties of EA as well as to investigate the influence of various neat solvents on EA skin delivery. Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), mass spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) were used to characterise the molecule. The pK_a of the compound and the partition coefficient logP_(o/w) were experimentally determined. A new HPLC method for analysis of the molecule was also developed and validated. A number of solvents for topical preparations were selected based on their wide use as excipients in topical formulations, their potential to act as skin penetration enhancers and their favourable safety profiles. The solubility and stability of EA was examined. Skin permeation of the molecule in full thickness porcine skin in vitro was investigated using Franz-type diffusion cells. The melting point, log P_(o/w) value and pK_a value of EA were determined to be 114.39 ± 0.5 °C, −1.07 ± 0.03 and 7.72 ± 0.01 respectively. Skin penetration of EA was evident for the following vehicles 1,2 hexanediol (HEX), glycerol (GLY), propylene glycol (PG), 1,2 pentanediol (1-2P), isopropyl alcohol (IPA), propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML) and propylene glycol monocaprylate (PGMC). Skin uptake but no permeation through the skin was observed for Transcutol® (TC) and dipropylene glycol (DiPG), while no penetration was observed for the solvents 1,5 pentanediol (1-5P) and tripropylene glycol (TriPG). The findings of the permeation experiments confirm the potential of simple formulations to deliver EA to the skin. Studies are ongoing to identify complex vehicles for synergistic enhancement of EA skin penetration. To our knowledge this is the first study to conduct a comprehensive characterization of EA and examine its skin uptake and permeation properties in porcine skin.

Evaluation of the safety and efficacy of a triple combination cream (hydroquinone, tretinoin, and fluocinolone) for treatment of melasma in Middle Eastern skin

Background: Melasma is the most common pigmentary skin disorder, especially in females and those with darker complexion. The current study evaluated the safety and efficacy of a triple combination cream containing hydroquinone 4%+tretinoin 0.05%+fluocinolone acetonide 0.01% (Januluma^® cream produced by Janus Pharmaceutical Co, Tehran, Iran) in the treatment of melasma.

Patients and methods: Twenty-two female volunteers (mean±standard deviation of age: 39.20±4.16 years) who fulfilled the eligibility criteria participated in this study after signing the informed consent. They were requested to apply the Januluma^®cream every night for 8 weeks. Modified melasma area and severity index (mMASI), skin lightness (L value), and severity of pigmentation (E value) by Visio Face, and skin biophysical parameters including pH, melanin index, erythema index, sebum, hydration, trans epidermal water loss, thickness and density of epidermis, and dermis (using 22 MHz ultrasonography) were measured before and 4 and 8 weeks after treatment. Also patients’ satisfaction was assessed 4 and 8 weeks after treatment using visual analog score.

Results: mMASI decreased significantly from 3.37 to 2.60 at week 4, and to 2.40 at week 8 (P-values=0.00 and 0.01, respectively). Also, E and L values improved significantly after 8 weeks of treatment (P=0.01 and 0.00, respectively). Skin melanin index decreased from 237.49 AU to 196.30 AU at week 8 (P=0.01). Also echo density of dermis increased significantly after 8 weeks of treatment (P=0.029). Almost all participants experienced some degrees of pruritus, scaling, and erythema, esspecially during the first month of application, which were generally mild and tolerable. The mean satisfaction of patients with the treatment was 6.77.

Conclusion: The triple combination formula was reasonably safe and effective for treatment of melasma in Middle Eastern patients.

Intramelanocytic Acidification Plays a Role in the Antimelanogenic and Antioxidative Properties of Vitamin C and Its Derivatives

Although vitamin C (VC, L-ascorbic acid) has been widely used as a skin lightening agent for a long time, the mechanism by which it inhibits melanogenesis remains poorly understood. It is well-documented that the intramelanocytic pH is an important factor in regulating tyrosinase function and melanosome maturation. The activity of tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme required for melanin synthesis, is generally minimal in an acidic environment. Given that VC is an acidic compound, we might speculate that the intracellular acidification of melanocytes induced by VC likely reduces melanin content through the suppression of tyrosinase activity. The results of this study reveal that treatment of melanocytes with VC or its derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid (AAE), resulted in significant decreases in the tyrosinase activity and melanin content and in the levels of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), indicating that VC and its derivatives possess antimelanogenic and antioxidative activities. Western blotting analysis indicated that VC, MAP, and AAE exert their antimelanogenic activity by inhibiting the tyrosinase activity rather than by downregulating the expression of melanogenic proteins such as tyrosinase, premelanosome protein 17 (Pmel17) and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Further, we found that the reduced tyrosinase activity of melanocytes treated with VC or its derivatives could be reactivated following intracellular neutralization induced by ammonium chloride (NH₄Cl) or concanamycin A (Con A). Finally, we examined the expression of sodium-dependent VC transporter-2 (SVCT-2) using western blotting and qPCR, which revealed that there was a significant increase in the expression of SVCT-2 in melanocytes following treatment with VC. VC-mediated intracellular acidification was neutralized by phloretin (a putative SVCT-2 inhibitor) in a dose-dependent manner. Taken together, these data show that VC and its derivatives suppress tyrosinase activity through cytoplasmic acidification that potentially results from enhanced VC transmembrane transport via the VC transporter SVCT-2.

Next Time, Save Mushrooms for the Pizza!

Mann et al. (2018) use recombinant human tyrosinase to screen for novel inhibitors of pigmentation. They develop thiamidol, a new thiazolyl-resorcinol derivative, that is a submicromolar tyrosinase inhibitor and effective for treating solar lentigines. Thiamidol and established inhibitors of pigmentation exhibit substantially different activities on human and mushroom tyrosinase, supporting use of the human enzyme in high-throughput screens.

Effective Tyrosinase Inhibition by Thiamidol Results in Significant Improvement of Mild to Moderate Melasma

Melasma is a pigmentary disorder characterized by hyperpigmented patchy skin in sun-exposed areas, especially the face. Treatment of melasma can be challenging because long-term therapy is required, reoccurrence is common, and existing therapies are insufficient and unsatisfactory. To investigate new treatment options, we performed an exploratory double-blinded, randomized split-face study to assess the efficacy of the tyrosinase inhibitor Thiamidol compared to hydroquinone in women with mild to moderate melasma. After 12 weeks, modified Melasma Area and Severity Index scores significantly improved on both the Thiamidol-treated and the hydroquinone-treated sides of the face. Additionally, Thiamidol treatment improved modified Melasma Area and Severity Index scores significantly better than hydroquinone, and more subjects improved following treatment with Thiamidol (79%) compared with hydroquinone (61%). During treatment, no subjects displayed worsening of modified Melasma Area and Severity Index scores on the Thiamidol-treated side, while approximately 10% of the subjects showed a worsening of modified Melasma Area and Severity Index scores on the hydroquinone-treated side. All subjects routinely used sunscreens and consistent results were obtained in low and in high UV ambient conditions. Subjects rated the efficacy of the Thiamidol formulation significantly better with regard to overall decreased intensity of dark spots and their overall appearance throughout the study. Thiamidol was well-tolerated and well-perceived and represents an effective agent to reduce hyperpigmentation.

Leukoderma induced by rhododendrol is different from leukoderma of vitiligo in pathogenesis: A novel comparative morphological study

BACKGROUND

Rhododendrol (rhododenol), an inhibitor of tyrosinase activity, is used as a skin-whitening component. Many cases of leukoderma after the application have been reported, termed rhododenol-induced leukoderma (RIL). The aim of this study was to clarify the pathogenesis of RIL morphologically through comparison with vitiligo.

METHODS

We examined 14 cases of RIL and 15 cases of vitiligo using routine histopathology and immunohistochemistry. Thirteen cases of RIL, six cases of vitiligo and specimens of the RIL mouse model were evaluated by electron microscopy.

RESULTS

There were common findings in RIL and vitiligo at the light-microscopic level: (a) vacuolar changes in the dermo-epidermal junction, (b) melanophages in the papillary dermis, (c) perifollicular lymphocyte infiltration, (d) loss or decrease of basal melanin pigment and (e) decrease of melanocytes in the lesions. The ultrastructural observations showed specific findings of RIL: (a) remaining melanocytes in depigmented lesions, (b) inhomogeneous melanization in melanocytes and (c) degenerated melanosomes in melanocytes. Some of the findings were observed in a RIL mouse model. Furthermore, it is notable that cell organelles of melanocytes were intact in our RIL cases.

CONCLUSION

Morphological changes of RIL targeting melanosomes in melanocytes without degeneration of organelles reflect the reversible clinical course of most cases.

Inhibitory effects of extracellular superoxide dismutase on ultraviolet B-induced melanogenesis in murine skin and melanocytes

AIMS

Several anti-melanogenic molecules have been developed or identified, but their uses are limited due to either adverse effects or instability during the treatment. We aimed to evaluate the effects of extracellular superoxide dismutase (SOD3), a powerful antioxidant, as a candidate anti-melanogenic molecule.

MAIN METHODS

UVB-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and proliferation in melan-a cells was evaluated by 6-carboxy-2',7'-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate staining and bromodeoxyuridine incorporation assay, respectively. Quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction and western blot were performed to detect the melanogenesis-related gene expression and downstream signaling. Anti-melanogenic effects of SOD3 were also evaluated using SOD3 transgenic mice under UVB exposure in-vivo condition.

KEY FINDINGS

SOD3 inhibited UVB-induced proliferation, ROS production and melanogenesis in melanocytes. Measurement of melanin content and tyrosinase activity assays showed that SOD3 significantly inhibited melanin synthesis. Moreover, these suppressive effects of SOD3 were dependent on the endothelin-1 (ET-1)/endothelin B receptor, protein kinase C, melanocortin 1 receptor/protein kinase A, Wnt7a/β-catenin, and mitogen-activated protein kinase pathways, with concomitant downregulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related proteins 1, dopachrome tautomerse. Interestingly, SOD3 was found to inhibit transforming growth factor-beta 1 (TGF-β1) to inactivate the ET-1 signaling pathway, and finally prevents the production of melanin.

SIGNIFICANCE

Our results provide novel insights into the role of SOD3 in melanocyte homeostasis and its uses as a potential biomedicine to treat hyperpigmentary conditions of the skin.

Inhibition of Human Tyrosinase Requires Molecular Motifs Distinctively Different from Mushroom Tyrosinase

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme of melanin production and, accordingly, is the most prominent target for inhibiting hyperpigmentation. Numerous tyrosinase inhibitors have been identified, but most of those lack clinical efficacy because they were identified using mushroom tyrosinase as the target. Therefore, we used recombinant human tyrosinase to screen a library of 50,000 compounds and compared the active screening hits with well-known whitening ingredients. Hydroquinone and its derivative arbutin only weakly inhibited human tyrosinase with a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) in the millimolar range, and kojic acid showed a weak efficacy (IC₅₀ > 500 μmol/L). The most potent inhibitors of human tyrosinase identified in this screen were resorcinyl-thiazole derivatives, especially the newly identified Thiamidol (Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany) (isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol), which had an IC₅₀ of 1.1 μmol/L. In contrast, Thiamidol only weakly inhibited mushroom tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 108 μmol/L). In melanocyte cultures, Thiamidol strongly but reversibly inhibited melanin production (IC₅₀ = 0.9 μmol/L), whereas hydroquinone irreversibly inhibited melanogenesis (IC₅₀ = 16.3 μmol/L). Clinically, Thiamidol visibly reduced the appearance of age spots within 4 weeks, and after 12 weeks some age spots were indistinguishable from the normal adjacent skin. The full potential of Thiamidol to reduce hyperpigmentation of human skin needs to be explored in future studies.

Inhibition of tyrosinase by 4H-chromene analogs: Synthesis, kinetic studies, and computational analysis

Inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase was observed with synthetic dihydropyrano[3,2-b]chromenediones. Among them, DHPC04 displayed the most potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity with a K_i value of 4 μm, comparable to the reference standard inhibitor kojic acid. A kinetic study suggested that these synthetic heterocyclic compounds behave as competitive inhibitors for the L-DOPA binding site of the enzyme. Furthermore, molecular modeling provided important insight into the mechanism of binding interactions with the tyrosinase copper active site.

Pharmacoinformatics exploration of polyphenol oxidases leading to novel inhibitors by virtual screening and molecular dynamic simulation study

Polyphenol oxidases (PPOs)/tyrosinases are metal-dependent enzymes and known as important targets for melanogenesis. Although considerable attempts have been conducted to control the melanin-associated diseases by using various inhibitors. However, the exploration of the best anti-melanin inhibitor without side effect still remains a challenge in drug discovery. In present study, protein structure prediction, ligand-based pharmacophore modeling, virtual screening, molecular docking and dynamic simulation study were used to screen the strong novel inhibitor to cure melanogenesis. The 3D structures of PPO1 and PPO2 were built through homology modeling, while the 3D crystal structures of PPO3 and PPO4 were retrieved from PDB. Pharmacophore modeling was performed using LigandScout 3.1 software and top five models were selected to screen the libraries (2601 of Aurora and 727, 842 of ZINC). Top 10 hit compounds (C1-10) were short-listed having strong binding affinities for PPO1-4. Drug and synthetic accessibility (SA) scores along with absorption, distribution, metabolism, excretion and toxicity (ADMET) assessment were employed to scrutinize the best lead hit. C4 (name) hit showed the best predicted SA score (5.75), ADMET properties and drug-likeness behavior among the short-listed compounds. Furthermore, docking simulations were performed to check the binding affinity of C1-C10 compounds against target proteins (PPOs). The binding affinity values of complex between C4 and PPOs were higher than those of other complexes (-11.70, -12.1, -9.90 and -11.20kcal/mol with PPO1, PPO2, PPO3, or PPO4, respectively). From comparative docking energy and binding analyses, PPO2 may be considered as better target for melanogenesis than others. The potential binding modes of C4, C8 and C10 against PPO2 were explored using molecular dynamics simulations. The root mean square deviation and fluctuation (RMSD/RMSF) graphs results depict the significance of C4 over the other compounds. Overall, bioactivity and ligand efficiency profiles suggested that the proposed hit may be more effective inhibitors for melanogenesis.