Characterization, sensorial evaluation and moisturizing efficacy of nanolipidgel formulations

A gel plaster in the form of nipple cover: A comfortable and safe transdermal delivery method for mammary hyperplasia

Hyperplasia of mammary glands (HMG) is considered a precancerous condition with a risk of malignant transformation, highlighting the necessity of proactive treatment in the early stages. Transdermal drug delivery offers significant advantages such as painlessness, absence of first-pass effect, and good patient compliance. However, the unique structure of the breast requires transdermal formulations for treating mammary hyperplasia to exhibit higher levels of safety and comfort. We have formulated an ancient topical formula called 'Muxiang Bing,' comprising traditional Chinese medicines Aucklandiae Radix (AR) and Rehmanniae Radix (RR), for the treatment of HMG. This formula has been transformed into a gel paster in the form of nipple cover for trans-nipple-areola delivery. In our investigations, we observed that the optimal formulation of the Muxiang gel plaster demonstrated enhanced permeation facilitated by AR's effect on RR. Furthermore, pre-treatment with the Muxiang gel plaster improved mammary tissue morphology, hormone levels, oxidative stress, aberrant cell proliferation, and damage in rat models, thus preventing and ameliorating mammary hyperplasia. The Muxiang gel plaster exhibited low skin irritability in rats, and long-term use did not cause harm to their internal organs or blood cells, indicating its safety and efficacy.

Overview of Nanocosmetics with Emphasis on those Incorporating Natural Extracts

The cosmetic industry is rapidly rising worldwide. To overcome certain deficiencies of conventional cosmetics, nanomaterials have been introduced to formulations of nails, lips, hair, and skin for treating/alleviating hyperpigmentation, hair loss, acne, dandruff, wrinkles, photoaging, etc. Innovative nanocarrier materials applied in the cosmetic sector for carrying the active ingredients include niosomes, fullerenes, liposomes, carbon nanotubes, and nanoemulsions. These exhibit several advantages, such as elevated stability, augmented skin penetration, specific site targeting, and sustained release of active contents. Nevertheless, continuous exposure to nanomaterials in cosmetics may pose some health hazards. This review features the different new nanocarriers applied for delivering cosmetics, their positive impacts and shortcomings, currently marketed nanocosmetic formulations, and their possible toxic effects. The role of natural ingredients, including vegetable oils, seed oils, essential oils, fats, and plant extracts, in the formulation of nanocosmetics is also reviewed. This review also discusses the current trend of green cosmetics and cosmetic regulations in selected countries.

Development of Emulsions Containing L-Ascorbic Acid and α-Tocopherol Based on the Polysaccharide FucoPol: Stability Evaluation and Rheological and Texture Assessment

The main function of vitamin C, as an antioxidant, is to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging, smoothing wrinkles and expression lines. In addition, it acts directly on depigmentation and prevention of blemishes on the skin. In this study, natural oils (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated, adding L-ascorbic acid as an antioxidant. The optimized formulations were obtained with 8.0 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Olea europaea oil formulation (C1) with a ƞ value of 2.71 Pa.s (measured at shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 96% and with 15 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Prunus amygdalus dulcis formulation (C2) with a ƞ value of 5.15 Pa.s (at a shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 99%. The stability of the FucoPol-based formulations was investigated over 45 days at 4 °C, 20 °C, and 30 °C. The results showed that all formulations maintained the organoleptic characteristics, with pH variations (5.7–6.8 for C1, and 5.5–6.03 for C2) within the regulations for cosmetic products (4 ≤ pH ≤ 7). The accelerated stability tests proved the formulations’ stability at 4 °C with EI = 95% for C1 and EI = 100% for C2. The rheological assessment demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning and liquid-like behavior. Regarding textural parameters, formulations C1 and C2 displayed an increase in firmness and consistency with similar spreadability during the shelf life. These findings further demonstrate FucoPol’s functional properties, acting as an emulsifier and stabilizer polysaccharide in cosmetic formulations containing L-ascorbic acid.

Cosmetic emulsion based on the fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol: Bioactive properties and sensorial evaluation

In this study, the physicochemical characteristics, bioactive properties, and sensorial evaluation of a O/W cosmetic formulation containing FucoPol, a fucose-containing bacterial polysaccharide, were assessed. The stability of the FucoPol-based cream, named F-cream, was demonstrated over a period of 2 months at different temperatures (4, 20 and 30 °C), during which it maintained the organoleptic characteristics and pH (5.88-6.19), with minimal variations on the apparent viscosity. Furthermore, no breaking mechanisms occurred upon centrifuging the samples (accelerated stability test) kept at 4 °C and at 30 °C for 60 days. The F-cream presented a shear-thinning and solid-liquid behavior consistent with its envisaged use for topical applications, proving to be a suitable candidate for an anti-aging application due to its antioxidant capacity and effective photoprotection, maintaining cellular preservation. Moreover, the formulation was proven non-cytotoxic for HaCaT cells at concentrations between 0.78 and 12.5 mg/mL, promoting HFFF2 cell migration (46-70 % of wound closure) at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL, and HaCaT cell migration at a concentration of 10 mg/mL (95-98 % of wound closure). Upon application over the skin, the F-cream provided a hydration and softness with desired spreadability with no residues after application. These findings show that FucoPol has good potential to be used as a functional and/or active ingredient in cosmetic formulations, forming an emulsified cream with appealing sensorial properties that can act as a moisturizer with photoprotection, antioxidant, and regeneration properties.

Xylan-Porphyrin Hydrogels as Light-Triggered Gram-Positive Antibacterial Agents

In the present work, we report on the synthesis of light-triggered antibacterial hydrogels, based on xylan chains covalently bound to meso-tetra(4-carboxyphenyl)porphyrin (TCPP). Not only does TCPP act as a photosensitizer efficient against Gram-positive bacteria, but it also serves as a cross-linking gelator, enabling the simple and easy building of xylan conjugate hydrogels. The hydrogels were characterized by infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), along with swelling and rheological tests. The antimicrobial activity of the hydrogels was tested under visible light irradiation against two Gram-positive bacterial strains, Staphylococcus aureus and Bacillus cereus. The preliminary results showed an interesting activity on these bacteria, indicating that these hydrogels could be of great potential in the treatment of skin bacterial infections with this species by photodynamic antimicrobial chemotherapy (PACT).

Formulation of the Polysaccharide FucoPol into Novel Emulsified Creams with Improved Physicochemical Properties

Driven by the customers' growing awareness of environmental issues, the production of topical formulations based on sustainable ingredients is receiving widespread attention from researchers and the industry. Although numerous sustainable ingredients (natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived compounds) have been investigated, there is a lack of comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives. In this study, olive oil (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated envisaging their validation as cosmetic creams. After formula composition design by Response Surface Methodology (RSM), the optimized FucoPol-based emulsion was prepared with 1.5 wt.% FucoPol, 1.5 wt.% cetyl alcohol, and 3.0 wt.% glycerin. The resulting emulsions had an apparent viscosity of 8.72 Pa.s (measured at a shear rate 2.3 s^-1) and droplet size and zeta potential values of 6.12 µm and -97.9 mV, respectively, which are within the values reported for cosmetic emulsified formulations. The optimized formulation displayed the desired criterium of a thin emulsion system, possessing the physicochemical properties and the stability comparable to those of commercially available products used in cosmeceutical applications.

Modification and Functionalization of Zeolites for Curcumin Uptake

This work shows that hierarchical zeolites are promising systems for the delivery of biologically relevant hydrophobic substances, such as curcumin. The validity of using piperine as a promoter of curcumin adsorption was also evaluated. The use of pure curcumin is not medically applicable due to its low bioavailability and poor water solubility. To improve the undesirable properties of curcumin, special carriers are used to overcome these shortcomings. Hierarchical zeolites possessing secondary mesoporosity are used as pharmaceutical carrier systems for encapsulating active substances with low water solubility. This porosity facilitates access of larger reagent molecules to the active sites of the material, preserving desirable adsorption properties, acidity, and crystallinity of zeolites. In this work, methods are proposed to synthesize hierarchical zeolites based on a commercial FAU-type zeolite. Studies on the application and adsorption kinetics of curcumin using commercial FAU-type zeolite and hierarchical zeolites based on commercial FAU-type zeolite are also included.

Optimization of the Conditions of Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN) Synthesis

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) have been synthesized as potential drug delivery systems. They are classified as solid lipid nanocarriers that can successfully carry both hydrophilic and hydrophobic drugs. SLNs are based on a biocompatible lipid matrix that is enzymatically degraded into natural components found in the human body. Solid lipid nanoparticles are suitable for the incorporation of hydrophobic active ingredients such as curcumin. The study included the optimization of lipid nanoparticle composition, incorporation of the active compound (curcumin), a stability evaluation of the obtained nanocarriers and characterization of their lipid matrix. Through process optimization, a dispersion of solid lipid nanoparticles (solid lipid:surfactant—2:1.25 weight ratio) predisposed to the incorporation of curcumin was developed. The encapsulation efficiency of the active ingredient was determined to be 99.80%. In stability studies, it was found that the most suitable conditions for conducting high-pressure homogenization are 300 bar pressure, three cycles and a closed-loop system. This yields the required values of the physicochemical parameters (a particle size within a 200−450 nm range; a polydispersity index of <30%; and a zeta potential of about |±30 mV|). In this work, closed-loop high-pressure homogenization was used for the first time and compared to the currently preferred open-loop method.

Investigating the influence of excipient batch variation on the structure, consistency and physical stability of polysorbate 60-based topical vehicles

Fatty alcohol-polysorbate 60-water ternary systems were used as models to represent the continuous phases of the respective semisolid oil-in-water emulsions for topical delivery of cosmetic and medicinal agents. The influence of batch variation of polysorbate 60 and fatty alcohol on structure and consistency of these systems was investigated using microscopy, rheology, differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray scattering techniques. The polysorbate 60 : cetostearyl alcohol mixed emulsifying wax showed swelling in water, that is, the lamellar repeat distance continually augmented from 93 to 125 Å with water percentage 20-90%. Cetostearyl alcohol ternary systems were thicker than cetyl alcohol ones independently of polysorbate 60 batches used. All the ternary systems showed an initial increase in consistency over the first 2 weeks of storage, which was followed by slight changes in consistency (cetostearyl alcohol systems) due to the re-allocation of polysorbate 60 molecules in the gel network or significant breakdown of structure (cetyl alcohol systems) due to the transformation of swollen α-lamellar gel phase into β, γ crystals on 25°C storage. With all fatty alcohols, the consistency of polysorbate 60 ternary system was directly dependent upon interlamellar water thickness as governed by the length and distribution of polyoxyethylene groups within polysorbate 60 molecules. In relation with the composition of polysorbate 60 batches used, the consistency of ternary systems was higher when prepared with the polysorbate 60 batch containing a greater amount of sorbitan polyoxyethylene monoesters. It was proposed that the swollen α-crystalline gel phase could be better formed by sorbitan polyoxyethylene monoesters rather than sorbitan polyoxyethylene diesters.

Skin Care Formulations and Lipid Carriers as Skin Moisturizing Agents

Skin care formulations have evolved as the interaction of health and beauty products for the skin. Their benefits are based on the combination of cosmetic active ingredients and targeted application. Cosmetic actives have been used in novel formulations for decades (sunscreens, anti-aging treatments, etc.), but the problems with their low solubility, low penetration, and physicochemical instability when applied to the skin have yet to be solved. One way to circumvent these shortcomings is to use lipid carriers, which are known to play an important role in the solubility of poorly soluble compounds by facilitating skin permeation and improving stability. This review addresses recent advances in skin care products that use novel nanotechnology-based lipid systems (liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, etc.) to deliver moisturizing cosmetic actives and improve product efficacy.

Lipid Nanoparticles Loaded with Iridoid Glycosides: Development and Optimization Using Experimental Factorial Design

Lipid nanoparticles based on multiple emulsion (W/O/W) systems are suitable for incorporating hydrophilic active substances, including iridoid glycosides. This study involved optimization of composition of lipid nanoparticles, incorporation of active compounds (aucubin and catalpol), evaluation of stability of the resulting nanocarriers, and characterization of their lipid matrix. Based on 32 factorial design, an optimized dispersion of lipid nanoparticles (solid lipid:surfactant-4.5:1.0 wt.%) was developed, predisposed for the incorporation of iridoid glycosides by emulsification-sonication method. The encapsulation efficiency of the active substances was determined at nearly 90% (aucubin) and 77% (catalpol). Regarding the stability study, room temperature was found to be the most suitable for maintaining the expected physicochemical parameter values (particle size < 100 nm; polydispersity index < 0.3; zeta potential > |± 30 mV|). Characterization of the lipid matrix confirmed the nanometer size range of the resulting carriers (below 100 nm), as well as the presence of the lipid in the stable β' form.

Jojoba Oil: An Updated Comprehensive Review on Chemistry, Pharmaceutical Uses, and Toxicity

Jojoba is a widely used medicinal plant that is cultivated worldwide. Its seeds and oil have a long history of use in folklore to treat various ailments, such as skin and scalp disorders, superficial wounds, sore throat, obesity, and cancer; for improvement of liver functions, enhancement of immunity, and promotion of hair growth. Extensive studies on Jojoba oil showed a wide range of pharmacological applications, including antioxidant, anti-acne and antipsoriasis, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antipyretic, analgesic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperglycemia activities. In addition, Jojoba oil is widely used in the pharmaceutical industry, especially in cosmetics for topical, transdermal, and parenteral preparations. Jojoba oil also holds value in the industry as an anti-rodent, insecticides, lubricant, surfactant, and a source for the production of bioenergy. Jojoba oil is considered among the top-ranked oils due to its wax, which constitutes about 98% (mainly wax esters, few free fatty acids, alcohols, and hydrocarbons). In addition, sterols and vitamins with few triglyceride esters, flavonoids, phenolic and cyanogenic compounds are also present. The present review represents an updated literature survey about the chemical composition of jojoba oil, its physical properties, pharmacological activities, pharmaceutical and industrial applications, and toxicity.

Optimization of Ultrasound-Assisted Emulsification of Emollient Nanoemulsions of Seed Oil of Passiflora edulis var. edulis

Passiflora edulis var. edulis is a plant of commercial interest because of it fruits. The seeds, a by-product in the food industry, can be a source of oil for cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food industries. The aims of this work were to optimize the ultrasonic-assisted emulsification conditions for o/w nanoemulsions and to evaluate the emollient activity of the seed oil. The optimum emulsification conditions were established, using the response surface methodology with a Box-Behnken design (BBD). The emollient activity of seed oil of P. edulis var. edulis was evaluated with healthy volunteers using a cutometer for skin moisture and viscoelasticity measurements. The optimal formulation variables (85.34 W of ultrasonic power, 5.96 irradiation time, 70.65% water and a 5:4 oil:surfactant ratio), resulted in considerable improvement in the properties of the ultrasonically formulated nanoemulsions. Finally, the seed oil of P. edulis var. edulis and the nanoemulsion generated by ultrasound presented emollient activity.

Xylan-based hydrogels for potential skin care application

Skin care biomaterials from natural compounds are increasingly needed in recent. We demonstrate a simple strategy to fabricate the dialdehyde xylan (DAX) crosslinked hydrogel with skin care potential. The hydrogel mainly consists of dialdehyde xylan, which is used as crosslinker for gelatin (G). Glycerol (Gly) and nicotinamide (NCA) are introduced here for improving the texture, antibacterial property as well as skin care functionality. The in vitro release results demonstrate that NCA can be released smoothly from the xylan-based gel, whereby the xylan-based fabricated gel can be utilized as an ideal matrix gel in skin care with loading and release function. The antibacterial ability is in the following order: Yeast > Bacillus subtilis > Staphylococcus aureus. The cytocompatibility experiments confirm the excellent viability of the gel. These merits demonstrate the fabricated hydrogel as a potential material in skin care.

Skin-controlled release lipid nanosystems of pranoprofen for the treatment of local inflammation and pain

Aim: The design and development of pranoprofen (PF) nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) for topical treatment of local inflammation and pain. Materials & methods: PF-NLCs were designed and optimized by central rotatable composite design. A physicochemical characterization was addressed. Release and skin permeation were performed in Franz diffusion cells. In vivo anti-inflammatory efficacy was assayed in mice and tolerance study in humans. Results: PF-NLCs F7 and F10 provided sustained release, good stability and optimal skin retention avoiding systemic undesired side effects. Anti-inflammatory activity was enhanced, suggesting an improved efficacy as compared with standard formulation. No skin irritancy was detected. Conclusion: Topical PF-NLCs F7 and F10 could be effective and safe new therapeutic tools for the treatment of local inflammation and pain.

[Formula: see text]

Relation between sensory analysis and rheology of body lotions

OBJECTIVE

Evaluation of sensory attributes of cosmetic products is traditionally based on sensory panels. However, in some cases, a suitable candidate method that can reduce time and costs is the use of instrumental analysis that can detect relatively very small changes of entry ingredients. Such approach has been already applied for emollients, salt content, stabilizers, etc. The aim of this contribution is to apply the relations between sensory analysis and rheology to a series of body lotions differing in the contents of emulsifiers and viscosity regulators.

METHODS

Sensory and rheological analyses are related. Rheological analysis can represent a good alternative to basic orientation in chosen customer's feelings. A rotational rheometer is the only instrumental device required for the measurements.

RESULTS

An empirical rheological model was proposed by means of which the selected sensory attributes were evaluated using the numerical values of adjustable model parameters. This approach exhibited a very good agreement with the results obtained by the sensory panel.

CONCLUSION

It was shown that a description of chosen sensory attributes can be responsibly carried out by rheological measurements, that is through the attained numerical values of the parameters appearing in a proposed empirical model characterizing shear viscosity of body lotions.