The rational design of biomimetic skin barrier lipid formulations using biophysical methods

Enhancing very long chain fatty acids production in Yarrowia lipolytica

Background

Very long chain fatty acids (VLCFA) and their derivatives are industrially attractive compounds. The most important are behenic acid (C22:0) and erucic acid (C22:1Δ¹³), which are used as lubricants, and moisturizers. C22:0 and C22:1Δ¹³ have also potential for biofuel production. These fatty acids are conventionally obtained from plant oils. Yarrowia lipolytica is an oleaginous yeast with a long history of gene manipulations resulting in the production of industrially interesting compounds, such as organic acids, proteins, and various lipophilic molecules. It has been shown previously that it has potential for the production of VLCFA enriched single cell oils.

Results

The metabolism of Y. lipolytica was redesigned to achieve increased production of VLCFA. The effect of native diacylglycerol acyltransferases of this yeast YlLro1p, YlDga1p, and YlDga2p on the accumulation of VLCFA was examined. It was found that YlDga1p is the only enzyme with a beneficial effect. Further improvement of accumulation was achieved by overexpression of 3-ketoacyl-CoA synthase (TaFAE1) under 8UAS-pTEF promoter and blockage fatty acid degradation pathway by deletion of YlMFE1. The best-producing strain YL53 (Δmfe, pTEF-YlDGA1, 8UAS-pTEF-TaFAE1) produced 120 µg of very long chain fatty acids per g of produced biomass, which accounted for 34% of total fatty acids in biomass.

Conclusions

Recombinant strains of Y. lipolytica have proved to be good producers of VLCFA. Redesign of lipid metabolism pathways had a positive effect on the accumulation of C22:1Δ¹³ and C22:0, which are technologically attractive compounds.

The emerging role of nanotechnology in skincare

The role of cosmetic products is rapidly evolving in our society, with their use increasingly seen as an essential contribution to personal wellness. This suggests the necessity of a detailed elucidation of the use of nanoparticles (NPs) in cosmetics. The aim of the present work is to offer a critical and comprehensive review discussing the impact of exploiting nanomaterials in advanced cosmetic formulations, emphasizing the beneficial effects of their extensive use in next-generation products despite a persisting prejudice around the application of nanotechnology in cosmetics. The discussion here includes an interpretation of the data underlying generic information reported on the product labels of formulations already available in the marketplace, information that often lacks details identifying specific components of the product, especially when nanomaterials are employed. The emphasis of this review is mainly focused on skincare because it is believed to be the cosmetics market sector in which the impact of nanotechnology is being seen most significantly. To date, nanotechnology has been demonstrated to improve the performance of cosmetics in a number of different ways: 1) increasing both the entrapment efficiency and dermal penetration of the active ingredient, 2) controlling drug release, 3) enhancing physical stability, 4) improving moisturizing power, and 5) providing better UV protection. Specific attention is paid to the effect of nanoparticles contained in semisolid formulations on skin penetration issues. In light of the emerging concerns about nanoparticle toxicity, an entire section has been devoted to listing detailed examples of nanocosmetic products for which safety has been investigated.

Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti-redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin

Objective

To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti‐redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness associated with winter xerosis in healthy volunteers with sensitive skin.

Methods

The anti‐inflammatory and skin protective properties of panthenol, PEA and NAM were evaluated in vitro. The physical properties of the AR formulations were analysed using measurement of water vapour transport rate (WVTR) and infrared spectroscopy. Clinical studies were performed between the months of December and April (2014–2015) with efficacy assessed during the winter. Facial redness, irritation, sensitization potential, photo‐irritation, and photo‐sensitization were evaluated. Self‐assessed adverse reactions were reported in diaries of use.

Results

Panthenol and PEA reduced prostaglandin E₂, interleukin‐6, and thymic stromal lymphopoietin levels in vitro, while NAM induced nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) levels and the keratinocyte differentiation markers: filaggrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.001), loricrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.05), involucrin (2 fold increase, P < 0.001) & peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor‐alpha (1.5 fold increase, P < 0.05). The two AR products exhibited low WVTR vs. no treatment (P < 0.001) and displayed an ordered lipid structure. The day cream formulation protected against ultraviolet B radiation in vitro. A total of 382 participants were included in clinical studies which showed the AR formulations significantly improved facial redness associated with winter xerosis (Day 29 mean change from baseline: AR day cream 0.77 (P < 0.001); AR serum 0.67 (P < 0.001)). No irritation, sensitization, photo‐irritation, photo‐sensitization or product‐related adverse reactions were observed or reported in the clinical studies.

Conclusion

The new products significantly improved skin redness associated with winter xerosis in participants with self‐perceived sensitive skin. Both products were well tolerated with a suitable safety profile for topical use in subjects with sensitive skin.

Examining Tail and Headgroup Effects on Binary and Ternary Gel-Phase Lipid Bilayer Structure

The structural properties of two- and three-component gel-phase bilayers were studied using molecular dynamics simulations. The bilayers contain distearoylphosphatidylcholine (DSPC) phospholipids mixed with alcohols and/or fatty acids of varying tail lengths, with carbon chain lengths of 12, 16, and 24 studied. Changes in both headgroup chemistry and tail length are found to affect the balance between steric repulsion and van der Waals attraction within the bilayers, manifesting in different bilayer structural properties. Lipid components are found to be located at different depths within the bilayer depending on both chain length and headgroup chemistry. The highest bilayer ordering and lowest area per tail are found in systems with medium-length tails. While longer tails can enhance van der Waals attractions, the increased tail-length asymmetry is found to induce disorder and reduce tail packing. Bulkier headgroups further increase steric repulsion, as reflected in increased component offsets and reduced tail packing. These findings help explain how bilayer composition affects the structure of gel-phase bilayers.

Cosmetic benefits of a novel biomimetic lamellar formulation containing niacinamide in healthy females with oily, blemish-prone skin in a randomized proof-of-concept study

OBJECTIVE

A randomized study was designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide-containing moisturizing cream in oily, blemish-prone skin.

METHODS

Healthy adult women with oily, blemish-prone skin were randomized to one of three treatment groups: test, control, or positive control. In the test group, subjects used the test product (containing 4% niacinamide), plus the standard cleanser (Simple® Kind to Skin Moisturizing Facial Wash). In the control group, subjects received no moisturizer but used the standard cleanser. In the positive control group, subjects used Vivatinell Acnecinamide^® Gel Cream (containing 4% niacinamide) as a moisturizer and Neutrogena Visibly Clear^® Spot Clearing Facial Wash (containing 2% salicylic acid) as a cleanser. The positive control regimen was included to provide a comparison for estimates of effect size. The primary objective was to evaluate skin moisturization as a change from baseline in corneometer values at 8 h for the test regimen vs. the control regimen. Analysis of covariance was applied for the primary efficacy analysis.

RESULTS

A total of 132 subjects were randomized with 44 included in each treatment group. A significant difference was observed in the primary endpoint for the test regimen compared with the control regimen (least-squares mean difference [95% CI]: 3.12 [0.68, 5.56], P = 0.0128). A trend was observed in favour of the positive control regimen compared with the control regimen. Secondary measurements of moisturization supported the primary efficacy outcome. Assessment of blemishes showed a significant difference between the test regimen vs. the control regimen for change from baseline in mean total blemish count at Week 8 (least-squares mean difference [95% CI]: -1.80 [-3.41, -0.19], P = 0.0290). No statistical comparisons between the positive control group and the test group were performed.

CONCLUSION

This study provides proof-of-concept evidence that a novel lamellar lipid moisturizer containing niacinamide, in combination with a standard cleanser, can help moisturize the skin and provide an overall improvement in the complexion appearance of people with blemish-prone skin.

STUDY REGISTRATION

NCT03093181.

Cosmetic use of three topical moisturizers following glycolic acid facial peels

BACKGROUND

Facial chemical exfoliation (peeling) involves using a chemical agent to insult the skin and damage the cutaneous barrier, to reduce the signs of aging. The use of a moisturizer is advised postprocedure to promote repair of the epidermis. Biomimic moisturizer formulations may be effective treatment options for repair following facial peeling.

AIMS

The aim of this study was to assess the local tolerance and cosmetic efficacy of three topical moisturizers (Physiogel® moisturizing creams), used after a 70% glycolic acid facial peel.

METHODS

Three randomized, evaluator-blind, parallel group studies were performed. Subjects were healthy females aged 30-60 years with moderate to advanced photoaged skin (Glogau photoaging type II-III). All included a screening visit, a 7-day washout period, a 70% glycolic acid facial peeling procedure, and randomization to a 14-day treatment period with one of the three test products vs control.

RESULTS

The primary endpoint was reached in all three studies; all completed subjects in the test groups received a favorable dermatologist global assessment score for tolerance at Day 14 (postchemical peel). Secondary assessments of local tolerance based on dermatologist and subject self-assessment scores demonstrated improvements from baseline. No treatment-related adverse events were reported in any study. Benefits for the test products were also observed in secondary efficacy analyses of transepidermal water loss and moisturization.

CONCLUSIONS

These studies have demonstrated the local tolerance and cosmetic efficacy of three moisturizing skin care products, when used for skin recovery after superficial chemical peeling on the face.

A series of in vitro and human studies of a novel lip cream formulation for protecting against environmental triggers of recurrent herpes labialis

Purpose

These studies describe the testing of a novel, daily-use lip cream designed for individuals with lips prone to recurrent herpes labialis (RHL) that protects against environmental triggers.

Subjects and methods

In vitro occlusive and in vitro and in vivo photoprotection analyses, a characterization of normal vs dry lips, and a randomized, evaluator-blinded, clinical trial that assessed the lip cream in healthy subjects with dry lips were conducted. In the clinical trial, subjects applied the lip cream or were untreated and evaluated using transepidermal water loss (TEWL), corneometry, visual assessments of lip dryness, expert photographic evaluations, and subject-rated outcomes.

Results

The lip cream’s in vitro water vapor transmission rate (84.1 g/(m² h)) indicated moderate occlusivity. The lip cream, but not placebo or control (water), reduced ultraviolet A (UVA)- and UVB-induced DNA damage, and tumor necrosis factor-α (EpiDerm^FT) and pros-taglandin E₂ release (EpiDerm^FT and EpiGingival™). The lip cream’s in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) was 12.2 (lower confidence limit, 11.3) and SPF/UVA protection factor ratio was 0.9. The characterization of dry vs normal lips identified differences in moisturization. In the clinical trial, the lip cream significantly decreased TEWL (difference: −7.19 [95% CI: −11.41, −2.98]; P<0.01), increased corneometry (difference: 4.62 [95% CI: 1.05, 8.19]; P<0.05), and reduced visual dryness (difference: −1.48 [95% CI: 2.24, −0.71]; P<0.001) compared to untreated subjects. Significant benefits were also observed on expert photographic assessments of scaling (difference: −0.89 [95% CI: −1.75, −0.03]; P< 0.05), cupping (difference: −1.50 [95% CI: −2.30, −0.70]; P<0.001), and healthy appearance (difference: −1.44 [95% CI: −2.29, −0.58]; P<0.01); differences in overall healthy appearance were not significant (P=0.51). Subject-rated assessments indicated improvements in cracking, dryness, and flaking in the lip cream group but worsening in untreated subjects.

Conclusion

These studies indicate that this novel, daily-use lip cream protects against UV radiation, drying, and chapping, which are established environmental RHL triggers.

Cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic lamellar cream formulation on barrier function or the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in randomized proof-of-concept clinical studies

Objective

Two studies were designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide‐containing moisturizing cream for the first time in humans.

Methods

In both studies, healthy women were randomized to use two treatments, one for the left side of the body and one for the right, from three options: the test cream, a positive control or no treatment (use of standard cleanser only). Treatments were applied twice daily for 4 weeks to the face and forearms (Study 1) or the face only (Study 2). Instrumental and clinical skin assessments were performed by trained technicians. Study 1 involved tape stripping and a 5‐day no‐treatment (‘regression’) period at the end of the 4 weeks. Independent lay graders were asked to grade the skin texture of subjects in Study 2 from high‐resolution photographs.

Results

In Study 1 (n = 66), the test cream significantly decreased the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values on the forearm, and in the cheek area of the face, relative to baseline and compared to no treatment, and increased skin Corneometer values. The improvements were partially retained during a subsequent 5‐day period of no treatment. Increases in TEWL values on skin subjected to tape stripping were significantly lower after 4 weeks of using the test cream compared to no treatment. In Study 2 (n = 72 subjects with visible signs of ageing), there was a favourable trend in the change from baseline of a skin roughness parameter, R_a, for the test cream compared to no treatment. There were statistically significant improvements in the Fitzpatrick wrinkle score compared to no treatment, decreases in TEWL and increased Corneometer values and Cutometer values (R5 elasticity parameter). Grading of high‐resolution images failed to detect the improvements in skin texture (defined as pores, smoothness and unevenness) for the test cream vs. no treatment. No treatment‐related serious or severe adverse events were reported.

Conclusion

Twice daily application of the test cream over 4 weeks had beneficial effects on skin barrier function, moisturization, wrinkle dimensions and elasticity compared to no treatment. These studies provide proof‐of‐concept evidence and highlight the cosmetic benefit of the biomimetic lamellar cream formulation. Study registration: NCT03216265, NCT03180645.

Fractionated aliphatic alcohols as synthetic precursors of ultra long-chain monoacylglycerols for cosmetic applications

BACKGROUND

Xerosis is an abnormally dry and flaky skin condition that is associated with a change in the packing behaviour of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. This skin condition can lead to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As ultralong-chain fatty acids have a positive effect on maintaining the packing behaviour of the SC lipid matrix, a moisturizer which contains glycerides of ultralong-chain fatty acids could act as a semi-occlusive layer on the surface of the skin. This will lower the rate of water evaporation through the epidermis and consequently help prevent or improve skin xerosis.

OBJECTIVE

To identify a novel source of ultralong-chain lipids and develop monoacylglycerols with mixed fatty acyl chain lengths that have occlusive properties superior to petrolatum.

METHODS

Initially, Performacol 425, a mixture of very long-chain fatty alcohols, was fractionated using short path distillation to yield a fraction enriched with C22:0-C26:0 fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol fraction was then oxidized using Jones reagent, and the resulting fatty acids were esterified with glycerol to yield the corresponding monoglycerides using Novozym 435. These were then evaluated using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry and water vapour transmission rate measurements.

RESULTS

The monoacylglycerols enriched with C22:0-C26:0 displayed a melting point of 80°C and orthorhombic packing; packing behaviour mainly present in healthy SC. In addition, a phospholipid-structured emulsion containing 3% of the monoglycerides displayed occlusive properties superior to the vehicle containing 3% petrolatum jelly.

CONCLUSIONS

Performacol 425 can be a potential source of fatty alcohols to synthesize monoacylglycerols that can improve the occlusive behaviour of phospholipid-structured emulsions.