Fractionated aliphatic alcohols as synthetic precursors of ultra long-chain monoacylglycerols for cosmetic applications

Catalyzed chain growth polymerisation of ethylene using lanthanidocenes/dialkylmagnesium: further developments and one pot synthesis of narrow dispersed high molecular weight fatty alcohols

Ethylene polymerisation was performed via an improved in situ Ln/Mg CCG process and applied to the synthesis of high M_n linear alcohols.

Water-mediated catalyst-free synthesis of lysine-based ampholytic amphiphiles for multipurpose applications: Characterization and pH-responsive emulsifying properties

A novel series of lysine-based ampholytic amphiphiles, with alkylsuccinic anhydrides of varying chain lengths as hydrophobic acylating agents, were synthesized in medium to high yield (50.23-90.15%) based on a facile, catalyst-free method in water medium; and structurally confirmed by mass spectrometry (MS), Fourier transform infra-red (FTIR) spectroscopy, and ¹H/¹³C nuclear magnetic resonances (NMR) analysis. The resulting compounds were subjected to pH-dependent amphiphilic property, ferrous ion chelating, DPPH antioxidant capacity, and cytotoxicity analyses. Results showed that CMC values decrease, γ value increase, and emulsion stability increase with the increase of medium pH, suggesting that the surface activity of synthetic compounds at air/water and oil/water interface under neutral and alkaline conditions was remarkably higher than that under acidic condition. Lauryl O-acylated malic lysine (compound 4b) presented excellent foaming ability close to commercial detergent sodium dodecyl sulphate; dodecyl succinic lysine (compound 4a) afforded highly stable o/w nanoemulsion. Moreover, compound 4b displayed comparable ferrous ion chelating property to lysine and 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) antioxidative capacity similar to a commercial food ingredient, diacetyl tartaric acid esters of mono- and di-glycerides (DATEM), indicating its multi-faceted functionalities. A cytotoxicity study of compounds 3b &4b showed that they were non-toxic. Thus, these novel ampholytic amphiphiles may find multi-purpose applications in food, detergent, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industry.

Fatty acid transport protein 4 is required for incorporation of saturated ultralong-chain fatty acids into epidermal ceramides and monoacylglycerols

Fatty acid transport protein 4 (FATP4) is an acyl-CoA synthetase that is required for normal permeability barrier in mammalian skin. FATP4 (SLC27A4) mutations cause ichthyosis prematurity syndrome, a nonlethal disorder. In contrast, Fatp4^−/− mice die neonatally from a defective barrier. Here we used electron microscopy and lipidomics to characterize defects in Fatp4^−/− mice. Mutants showed lamellar body, corneocyte lipid envelope, and cornified envelope abnormalities. Lipidomics identified two lipids previously speculated to be present in mouse epidermis, sphingosine β-hydroxyceramide and monoacylglycerol; mutants displayed decreased proportions of these and the two ceramide classes that carry ultralong-chain, amide-linked fatty acids (FAs) thought to be critical for barrier function, unbound ω-O-acylceramide and bound ω-hydroxyceramide, the latter constituting the major component of the corneocyte lipid envelope. Other abnormalities included elevated amounts of sphingosine α-hydroxyceramide, phytosphingosine non-hydroxyceramide, and 1-O-acylceramide. Acyl chain length alterations in ceramides also suggested roles for FATP4 in esterifying saturated non-hydroxy and β-hydroxy FAs with at least 25 carbons and saturated or unsaturated ω-hydroxy FAs with at least 30 carbons to CoA. Our lipidomic analysis is the most thorough such study of the Fatp4^−/− mouse skin barrier to date, providing information about how FATP4 can contribute to barrier function by regulating fatty acyl moieties in various barrier lipids.

Review of Modern Techniques for the Assessment of Skin Hydration

Skin hydration is a complex process that influences the physical and mechanical properties of skin. Various technologies have emerged over the years to assess this parameter, with the current standard being electrical probe-based instruments. Nevertheless, their inability to provide detailed information has prompted the use of sophisticated spectroscopic and imaging methodologies, which are capable of in-depth skin analysis that includes structural and composition details. Modern imaging and spectroscopic techniques have transformed skin research in the dermatological and cosmetics disciplines, and are now commonly employed in conjunction with traditional methods for comprehensive assessment of both healthy and pathological skin. This article reviews current techniques employed in measuring skin hydration, and gives an account on their principle of operation and applications in skin-related research.