Applications of mass spectrometry in cosmetic analysis: An overview

Mass spectrometry (MS) is a crucial tool in cosmetic analysis. It is widely used for ingredient screening, quality control, risk monitoring, authenticity verification, and efficacy evaluation. However, due to the diversity of cosmetic products and the rapid development of MS-based analytical methods, the relevant literature needs a more systematic collation of information on this subject to unravel the true potential of MS in cosmetic analysis. Herein, an overview of the role of MS in cosmetic analysis over the past two decades is presented. The currently used sample preparation methods, ionization techniques, and types of mass analyzers are demonstrated in detail. In addition, a brief perspective on the future development of MS for cosmetic analysis is provided.

Profiles of parabens, benzophenone-type ultraviolet filters, triclosan, and triclocarban in paired urine and indoor dust samples from Chinese university students: Implications for human exposure

Parabens, benzophenone (BP)-type UV filters, triclosan (TCS), and triclocarban (TCC) are commonly used in personal care products. Human exposure to these compounds has received increasing concern because of their adverse health effects. However, the levels of these chemicals in paired urine and indoor samples have never been simultaneously measured. In this work, eight parabens, eight BP-type UV filters, TCS, and TCC were measured in paired urine and indoor dust samples collected from university students and their dormitories in South China. The target analytes were commonly measured in urine (71%-100%) and indoor dust (30%-98%), with median concentrations ranging from 0.16 ng/mL to 19.3 ng/mL in urine and from <0.01 ng/g to 3700 ng/g in indoor dust samples. Females had high levels of most of these target compounds, and gender-related differences were found in the levels of most target analytes. Positive correlations were found in the levels of methylparaben, ethyl paraben, benzophenone-3, and TCS between urine and indoor dust samples. This finding suggested that indoor dust is an important source for human exposure to these compounds. The estimated daily intake (EDI) of these analytes in paired samples was also evaluated. The median EDI_-urine values of target analytes varied in the range of 4.02-59,280 ng/kg bw/day. Females had higher median EDI_-urine values for most of target analytes than males. In addition, the median EDI_{-indoor dust} values of most target analytes in dust from female dormitories were higher than those in dust from male dormitories. Indoor dust ingestion only had minor contribution (<0.5%) to the total exposure. To the best of the authors' knowledge, this study is the first to simultaneously analyze the concentrations of parabens, BP-type UV filters, TCS, and TCC in the paired urine and indoor samples from university students in South China.

Recent Advances in Sample Preparation for Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis

The use of cosmetics and personal care products is increasing worldwide. Their high matrix complexity, together with the wide range of products currently marketed under different forms imply a challenge for their analysis, most of them requiring a sample pre-treatment step before analysis. Classical sample preparation methodologies involve large amounts of organic solvents as well as multiple steps resulting in large time consumption. Therefore, in recent years, the trends have been moved towards the development of simple, sustainable, and environmentally friendly methodologies in two ways: (i) the miniaturization of conventional procedures allowing a reduction in the consumption of solvents and reagents; and (ii) the development and application of sorbent- and liquid-based microextraction technologies to obtain a high analyte enrichment, avoiding or significantly reducing the use of organic solvents. This review provides an overview of analytical methodology during the last ten years, placing special emphasis on sample preparation to analyse cosmetics and personal care products. The use of liquid–liquid and solid–liquid extraction (LLE, SLE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), solid-phase extraction (SPE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE), matrix solid-phase extraction (MSPD), and liquid- and sorbent-based microextraction techniques will be reviewed. The most recent advances and future trends including the development of new materials and green solvents will be also addressed.

An Overview of the Analytical Methods for the Determination of Organic Ultraviolet Filters in Cosmetic Products and Human Samples

UV filters are a group of compounds commonly used in different cosmetic products to absorb UV radiation. They are classified into a variety of chemical groups, such as benzophenones, salicylates, benzotriazoles, cinnamates, p-aminobenzoates, triazines, camphor derivatives, etc. Different tests have shown that some of these chemicals are absorbed through the skin and metabolised or bioaccumulated. These processes can cause negative health effects, including mutagenic and cancerogenic ones. Due to the absence of official monitoring protocols, there is an increased number of analytical methods that enable the determination of those compounds in cosmetic samples to ensure user safety, as well as in biological fluids and tissues samples, to obtain more information regarding their behaviour in the human body. This review aimed to show and discuss the published studies concerning analytical methods for the determination of organic UV filters in cosmetic and biological samples. It focused on sample preparation, analytical techniques, and analytical performance (limit of detection, accuracy, and repeatability).

Analytical methods for the determination of endocrine disrupting chemicals in cosmetics and personal care products: A review

Personal care products (PCPs) and cosmetics are indispensable product in our daily routine. Their widespread use makes them a potential route of exposure for certain contaminants to which human would not be normally exposed. One of these contaminants includes endocrine disrupting chemicals, molecules capable of mimicking the body's natural hormones and interfering with the endocrine system. Some of them are ingredients included in the product's formulation, such as UV-filters (sunscreens), phthalates (plasticizers and preservatives), synthetic musks (fragrances), parabens and other antimicrobial agents (antimicrobial preservatives). Others are non-intended added substances that may result from the manufacturing process or migration from the plastic packaging, as with bisphenols and perfluorinated compounds. Some of these endocrine disruptors have been restricted or even banned in cosmetics and PCPs given the high risk they pose to health. Thus, the development of fast, sensitive and precise methods for the identification and quantification of these compounds in cosmetics is a substantial need in order to ensure consumer safety and provide insight into the real risk of human exposure. The present work aims at reviewing the more recently developed analytical methods published in the literature for the determination of endocrine disrupting chemicals in cosmetics and PCPs using chromatographic techniques, with a focus on sample treatment and the quality of analytical parameters.

In vitro metabolism of sunscreen compounds by liquid chromatography/high-resolution tandem mass spectrometry

RATIONALE

Exposure to UV light can induce adverse effects on human health, such as photo-aging, immunosuppression, and cancer. Sunscreens are used to prevent the absorption of UV rays, but certain UV-filtering compounds have been shown to disrupt endocrine systems or act as carcinogens. To assess the effects of the exposure to such compounds, it is important to study the pathways by which they are biotransformed in the body.

METHODS

Liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution tandem mass spectrometry (LC/HRMS/MS) was employed to evaluate the oxidative metabolism and, specifically, the formation of reactive metabolites of six active ingredients commonly used in sunscreen formulations: oxybenzone, avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, and octinoxate. In vitro incubations were performed with human and rat liver microsomes in the presence of β-nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate and glutathione. An LC/HRMS/MS method was developed to identify metabolites employing a biphenyl reversed-phase column for separating parent molecules, metabolites, and glutathione (GSH) adducts.

RESULTS

Each tested compound resulted in the formation of several metabolites, including at least one GSH adduct. Compounds containing ester groups were hydrolyzed, and some metabolites of the free acid forms were also detected. High-resolution MS/MS data was crucial for the structural elucidation of metabolites and GSH adducts. Fragmentation pathways were proposed for all parent compounds, as well as each described metabolite and adduct.

CONCLUSIONS

The results of this study will help better understand the metabolism and detoxification pathways of these xenobiotics.

Quantification of prominent organic UV filters and their metabolites in human urine and plasma samples

Monitoring human exposure to chemical UV filters is essential for an accurate assessment of the health risk caused by the resorbed compounds. We developed different procedures for the determination of the prominent UV filters octocrylene (OC), avobenzone (AVO) and 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS) as well as for two OC and EHS metabolites in human urine and OC, AVO and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid (CDAA) in plasma samples using liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Since the development of a multi-method for all analytes proved to be difficult, three different procedures were established for the determination of AVO, OC and its metabolite CDAA in urine and plasma as well as for EHS and its metabolite 5-hydroxy-EHS in urine. The methods have been validated with good sensitivity, precision and accuracy. The procedures were satisfactorily applied to the determination of the target compounds in human samples collected from volunteers after sunscreen application. These new analytical procedures can provide information on the internal exposure to the UV filters OC, AVO and EHS, which has been little studied.

Organic UV filters in indoor dust and human urine: A study of characteristics, sources, associations and human exposure

Organic ultraviolet (UV) filters are emerging contaminants that may pose health risks to humans. We measured the concentrations of four commonly used organic UV filters (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BP-3), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC), homosalate (HMS), and octocrylene (OC)) in 203 indoor dust samples and 98 human urine samples from households in eastern China. The total concentrations of the four organic UV filters ranged from 66.6-56,123.0 ng g^-1 in indoor dust and 1.17-52.15 μg g^-1 (creatinine-adjusted concentration (Cr)) in urine. BP-3 was the most abundant organic UV filter in the urine samples (median concentration: 1.89 μg g^-1 Cr), while OC was the most abundant in the indoor dust samples (median concentration: 325.7 ng g^-1). No significant correlations were found between organic UV filter concentrations in paired urine and dust samples, but the concentrations of UV filters in the indoor dust samples were positively correlated with family income and sunscreen use. The sources of the organic UV filters in the indoor dust samples differed based on the geographical location of the tested household. The fraction of human exposure to organic UV filters that resulted from ingestion or dermal absorption of indoor dust was close to 8%.