Improvement of hydration and epidermal barrier function in human skin by a novel compound isosorbide dicaprylate

Prospective Randomized Double-Blind Vehicle-Controlled Study of Topical Coconut and Sunflower Seed Oil-Derived Isosorbide Diesters on Atopic Dermatitis

Background: Preliminary studies support the use of topical coconut and sunflower seed oil for atopic dermatitis (AD). However, standardized topical formulations of fatty acids from these sources have not been studied. Objective: This study investigates whether coconut oil- and sunflower seed oil-derived isosorbide diesters can be used in conjunction with colloidal oatmeal to improve itch, AD severity, and the need for topical steroids in adults. Methods: This was a single-center, 4-week, randomized, double-blind, and vehicle-controlled study conducted between 2021 and 2022. Thirty-two male and female adults with mild-to-moderate AD were enrolled and completed the study. Participants were randomized to receive either 0.1% colloidal oatmeal (vehicle) or isosorbide diesters (IDEAS, 4% isosorbide dicaprylate and 4% isosorbide disunflowerseedate) along with 0.1% colloidal oatmeal. The main outcomes of the study were changes in the visual analogue rating of itch and 75% improvement in the Eczema Area and Severity Index score (EASI 75) at 4 weeks. Other measures included the use of topical steroids and the relative abundance of skin Staphylococcus aureus. Results: Participants in the IDEAS group had a 65.6% improvement in itch compared with 43.8% in the vehicle group (P = 0.013). In total, 56.5% and 25% of the those in the IDEAS and vehicle groups, respectively, achieved EASI 75 at 4 weeks (P = 0.07). There was no difference in skin hydration or transepidermal water loss. The relative abundance of S. aureus was decreased in the IDEAS group at week 4 compared with no change in the vehicle group (P = 0.044). Topical corticosteroid use increased in the vehicle group compared with a decrease in the IDEAS group at week 1 (292.5% vs 24.8%; P value = 0.039) and week 2 (220% vs 46%; P value = 0.08). Conclusions: Topical application of emollients containing coconut oil- and sunflower seed oil-derived fatty esters may improve itch, reduce topical steroid use, and reduce the relative abundance of S. aureus in mild-to-moderate AD. CTR number: NCT04831892.

Aquaporins in Skin

The skin is the largest organ of our body and plays a protective role against the external environment. The skin functions as a mechanical and water permeability barrier, assisting with thermoregulation and defending our body against a variety of stresses such as ultraviolet radiation, microbial infection, physical injuries, and chemical hazards. The structure of the skin consists of three main layers: the hypodermis, the dermis, and the epidermis. Aquaporins (AQPs) are a family of integral membrane proteins whose function is to regulate intracellular fluid hemostasis by facilitating the transportation of water, and in some cases small molecules, across the cell membranes. Up to six different AQPs (AQP1, 3, 5, 7, 9, and 10) are expressed in a variety of cell types in the skin. The AQP family plays an important role in these various locations, contributing to many key functions of the skin including hydration, wound healing, and immune responses. The involvement of different aquaporin family members in skin is discussed.

Isosorbide Fatty Acid Diesters Have Synergistic Anti-Inflammatory Effects in Cytokine-Induced Tissue Culture Models of Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic disease in which epidermal barrier disruption triggers Th2-mediated eruption of eczematous lesions. Topical emollients are a cornerstone of chronic management. This study evaluated efficacy of two plant-derived oil derivatives, isosorbide di-(linoleate/oleate) (IDL) and isosorbide dicaprylate (IDC), using AD-like tissue culture models. Treatment of reconstituted human epidermis with cytokine cocktail (IL-4 + IL-13 + TNF-α + IL-31) compromised the epidermal barrier, but this was prevented by co-treatment with IDL and IDC. Cytokine stimulation also dysregulated expression of keratinocyte (KC) differentiation genes whereas treatment with IDC or IDL + IDC up-regulated genes associated with early (but not late) KC differentiation. Although neither IDL nor IDC inhibited Th2 cytokine responses, both compounds repressed TNF-α-induced genes and IDL + IDC led to synergistic down-regulation of inflammatory (IL1B, ITGA5) and neurogenic pruritus (TRPA1) mediators. Treatment of cytokine-stimulated skin explants with IDC decreased lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) secretion by more than 50% (more than observed with cyclosporine) and in vitro LDH activity was inhibited by IDL and IDC. These results demonstrate anti-inflammatory mechanisms of isosorbide fatty acid diesters in AD-like skin models. Our findings highlight the multifunctional potential of plant oil derivatives as topical ingredients and support studies of IDL and IDC as therapeutic candidates.

Glycosaminoglycans: Sweet as Sugar Targets for Topical Skin Anti-Aging

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are long, linear polysaccharides comprised of repeating disaccharide units with pleiotropic biological functions, with the non-sulfated GAG hyaluronic acid (HA), and sulfated GAGs dermatan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, heparan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and to a lesser extent heparin all being expressed in skin. Their ability to regulate keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, inflammatory processes and extracellular matrix composition and quality demonstrates their critical role in regulating skin physiology. Similarly, the water-binding properties of GAGs and structural qualities, particularly for HA, are crucial for maintaining proper skin form and hydration. The biological importance of GAGs, as well as extensive evidence that their properties and functions are altered in both chronological and extrinsic skin aging, makes them highly promising targets to improve cosmetic skin quality. Within the present review, we examine the cutaneous biological activity of GAGs alongside the protein complexes they form called proteoglycans and summarize the age-related changes of these molecules in skin. We also examine current topical interventional approaches to modulate GAGs for improved skin quality such as direct exogenous administration of GAGs, with a particular interest in strategies targeted at potentiating GAG levels in skin through either attenuating GAG degradation or increasing GAG production.

Protective Effect of Potentilla glabra in UVB-Induced Photoaging Process

Maintaining skin homeostasis is one of the most important factors for skin health. UVB-induced skin photoaging is a difficult problem that has negative impacts on skin homeostasis. So far, a number of compounds have been discovered that improve human skin barrier function and hydration, and are thought to be effective ways to protect skin homeostasis. Potentilla glabra var. mandshurica (Maxim.) Hand.-Mazz. Ethanol Extract (Pg-EE) is a compound that has noteworthy anti-inflammatory properties. However, its skin-protective effects are poorly understood. Therefore, we evaluated the capacity of Pg-EE to strengthen the skin barrier and improve skin hydration. Pg-EE can enhance the expression of filaggrin (FLG), transglutaminase (TGM)-1, hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS)-1, and HAS-2 in human keratinocytes. Moreover, Pg-EE down-regulated the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines and up-regulated the production of FLG, HAS-1, and HAS-2 suppressed by UVB through inhibition of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) and extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) pathways. Given the above, since Pg-EE can improve skin barrier, hydration and reduce the UVB-induced inflammation on skin, it could therefore be a valuable natural ingredient for cosmetics or pharmaceuticals to treat skin disorders.

Long-term effects of two 24-hour moisturizing products on skin barrier structure and function: A biometric and molecular study

INTRODUCTION

Recently, there are a few moisturizers showing hydrating effects up to 24 hours after single application. Aquaporin 3 might be associated with the degree of skin hydration. We aimed to assess the effects of two brands of 24-hour moisturizers on the skin barrier function, as well as the AQP3 gene expression.

METHOD

Two moisturizers were applied once daily by 20 participants age 36.15 ± 9.55 years. Upper right and left forearms were randomly assigned to application of each product, whereas the right lower forearm served as control site for application of a cream base formulation. Biophysical assessments including trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, pH, surface lipids, and elasticity parameters were performed before intervention, 1, 4, and 24 hours after single application, following 2 weeks daily application and 1 week after termination of use. Also 5-mm punch biopsies were performed from application sites of product B and cream base formulation in for five participants after 2 weeks of application.

RESULTS

A single treatment with both products led to 24-hour increase in skin moisture in comparison with the control site (P-value <.01). Daily application of both products for 14 days also led to significant improvement in skin moisture (P-value <.01), TEWL (P-value <.01), and elasticity parameters. The increase in skin hydration was associated with upregulation of AQP3 gene expression in treated area for one of the formulations (P-value = .04).

CONCLUSION

The tested 24-hour moisturizers only need to be applied once daily to improve skin barrier function and hydration and up-regulate AQP3 mRNA expression.

Tracing skin aging process: a mini- review of in vitro approaches

Skin is a rather complex, yet useful organ of our body. Besides, skin aging is a complicated process that gains a growing interest as mediates many molecular processes in our body. Thus, an efficient skin model is important to understand skin aging function as well as to develop an effective innovative product for skin aging treatment. In this mini review, we present in vitro methods for assessments of skin aging in an attempt to pinpoint basic molecular mechanisms behind this process achieving both a better understanding of aging function and an effective  evaluation of potential products or ingredients that counteract aging. Specifically, this study presents in vitro assays such as 2D or 3D skin models, to evaluate skin aging-related processes such as skin moisturization, photoaging, wound healing, menopause, and skin microbiome as novel efforts in the designing of efficacy assessments in the development of skincare products.

Isosorbide Di-(Linoleate/Oleate) Stimulates Prodifferentiation Gene Expression to Restore the Epidermal Barrier and Improve Skin Hydration

The breakdown of the epidermal barrier and consequent loss of skin hydration is a feature of skin aging and eczematous dermatitis. Few treatments, however, resolve these underlying processes to provide full symptomatic relief. In this study, we evaluated isosorbide di-(linoleate/oleate) (IDL), which was generated by esterifying isosorbide with sunflower fatty acids. Topical effects of IDL in skin were compared with those of ethyl linoleate/oleate, which has previously been shown to improve skin barrier function. Both IDL and ethyl linoleate/oleate downregulated inflammatory gene expression, but IDL more effectively upregulated the expression of genes associated with keratinocyte differentiation (e.g., KRT1, GRHL2, SPRR4). Consistent with this, IDL increased the abundance of epidermal barrier proteins (FLG and involucrin) and prevented cytokine-mediated stratum corneum degradation. IDL also downregulated the expression of unhealthy skin signature genes linked to the loss of epidermal homeostasis and uniquely repressed an IFN-inducible coexpression module activated in multiple skin diseases, including psoriasis. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial enrolling females with dry skin, 2% IDL lotion applied over 2 weeks significantly improved skin hydration and decreased transepidermal water loss (NCT04253704). These results demonstrate mechanisms by which IDL improves skin hydration and epidermal barrier function, supporting IDL as an effective intervention for the treatment of xerotic pruritic skin.

The Enigma of Bioactivity and Toxicity of Botanical Oils for Skin Care

Botanical oils have a long history of traditional use and are routinely applied to skin care. The focus of this review is to contrast the functionality of skin oils versus the differential biological and toxicological effects of major plant oils, and to correlate them to their compositional changes. In total, over 70 vegetable oils were clustered according to their lipid composition to promote awareness of health practitioners and botanical product manufacturers for the safety and efficacy of oil-based interventions based on their fatty acid profiles. Since multiple skin disorders result in depletion or disturbance of skin lipids, a tailored mixture of multiple botanical oils to simultaneously maintain natural skin-barrier function, promote repair and regeneration of wounded tissues, and achieve corrective modulation of immune disorders may be required. As bioactive constituents of botanical oils enter the human body by oral or topical application and often accumulate in measurable blood concentrations, there is also a critical need for monitoring their hazardous effects to reduce the possible over-added toxicity and promote maximal normal tissue sparing. The review also provides a useful tool to improve efficacy and functionality of fatty acid profiles in cosmetic applications.

Aging-associated alterations in epidermal function and their clinical significance

Chronologically-aged skin displays multiple functional changes in both the dermis and the epidermis. It appears that epidermal dysfunction, compromised permeability homeostasis, reduced stratum corneum hydration and elevated skin surface pH predispose to the development of aging-associated cutaneous and extracutaneous disorders. Improvements in epidermal function have been shown to be an effective alternative therapy in the prevention and treatment of some aging-associated cutaneous disorders, including eczematous dermatitis, pruritus, and xerosis. Recent studies demonstrated that epidermal dysfunction leads to the development of chronic, low-grade systemic inflammation, termed ‘inflammaging,’ which is linked to the development of aging-associated systemic disorders. Thus, correction of epidermal dysfunction could comprise a novel strategy in the prevention and treatment of aging-associated systemic disorders as well. In this review, we summarize aging-associated alterations in epidermal function, their underlying mechanisms, and their clinical significance. Regimens to improve epidermal function in the elderly are also discussed.

The protective effects of β-sitosterol and vermicularin from Thamnolia vermicularis (Sw.) Ach. against skin aging in vitro

Aged skin, featured with dryness and wrinkles, has received mounting attention due to its adverse influences on beauty. β-Sitosterol and vermicularin are two common active ingredients of Thamnolia vermicularis (Sw.) Ach., a traditional Chinese medicine, of which the anti-aging effect has been discovered. Their protective performance against skin aging was assayed by co-culturing with skin cells in this work. Results showed that β-sitosterol promoted the biosynthesis of hyaluronic acid by increasing the expression of hyaluronic acid synthases in fibroblasts and enhanced the expression of skin barrier functional proteins including aquaporin 3, loricrin, filaggrin and involucrin in keratinocytes, which conduced to the moisture retention within skin. Moreover, vermicularin might function as an anti-wrinkle agent by preventing the loss of collagen type I. Specifically, vermicularin reduced the amount of reactive oxygen species within hydrogen-peroxide-induced fibroblasts; together with suppressing the activation of mitogen-activated protein kinases, it could inhibit the production of matrix metalloproteinases-1. The present research will contribute to the development of the compounds as anti-aging ingredients for future applications in cosmetic formulations and functional food as well as promote further studies of raw materials containing alike compounds.