Moisturizing mechanism of glycerol and diglycerol on human stratum corneum studied by synchrotron X-ray diffraction

Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

BACKGROUND

Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol.

RESULTS

Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in β-pleated sheet conformation of keratin.

CONCLUSION

Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

Evaluation of the time-dependent osteogenic activity of glycerol incorporated magnesium oxide nanoparticles in induced calvarial defects

Introduction

Magnesium-based biomaterials have been explored for their potential as bone healing materials, as a result of their outstanding biodegradability and biocompatibility. These characteristics make magnesium oxide nanoparticles (MgO NPs) a promising material for treating bone disorders. The purpose of this investigation is to assess the osteogenic activity of newly-developed locally administered glycerol-incorporated MgO NPs (GIMgO NPs) in rabbits' calvarial defects.

Materials and methods

Characterization of GIMgO was done by X-ray Diffraction (XRD) and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR). Bilateral calvarial defects were created in eighteen New Zealand Rabbits, of which they were divided into 3 groups with time points corresponding to 2, 4, and 6 weeks postoperatively (n = 6). One defect was implanted with absorbable gel foam impregnated with GIMgO NPs while the other was implanted with gel foam soaked with glycerol (the control). The defects were assessed using histological, Micro-Computed Tomography (Micro-CT), and histometric evaluation.

Results

The characterization of the GIMgO nanogel revealed the presence of MgO NPs and glycerol as well as the formation of the crystalline phase of the MgO NPs within the nanogel sample. The histological and micro-CT analysis showed time-dependent improvement of healing activity in the calvarial defects implanted with GIMgO NPs when compared to the control. Furthermore, the histometric analysis demonstrated a marked increase in the total area of new bone, connective tissue, new bone area and volume in the GIMgO NPs implanted site. Statistically, the amount of new bone formation was more significant at 6 weeks than at 2 and 4 weeks postoperatively in the calvarial defects implanted with GIMgO NPs as compared to the control.

Conclusion

The locally applied GIMgO NPs demonstrated efficacy in promoting bone formation, with more significant effects observed over an extended period. These findings suggest its suitability for clinical use as a therapeutic alternative to enhance bone healing.

Effects of skin washing frequency on the epidermal barrier function and inflammatory processes of the epidermis: an experimental study

BACKGROUND

Increased hand hygiene measures during the COVID-19 pandemic have led to an increased quantum of hand eczema (HE).

OBJECTIVES

To examine the effects of varying washing frequencies using current mild cleansing agents - alongside with the effect of a rehydrating cream - on the epidermal barrier function and inflammatory processes of the stratum corneum (SC).

METHODS

Standardized skin washings on the volar aspects of the lower arms of skin healthy volunteers were performed using the Automated Cleansing Device either 5 or 11 times within 4 hours for 60 seconds each with a standard cleanser, a lipid-containing syndet, or a lipid-containing syndet followed by one-time application of a rehydrating cream. Skin bioengineering parameters (transepidermal water loss, SC hydration, erythema, and SC pH) and biochemical / immunological parameters (IL-1α, IL-1αRA, and Natural Moisturizing Factor) of SC samples collected by tape stripping were assessed.

RESULTS

All applied washing procedures provided comparable, mild effects on the epidermal barrier function and skin inflammation.

CONCLUSIONS

Occupational skin cleansers seem to have improved regarding skin barrier damaging effects. To further corroborate this, a study design, modified on the basis of our findings, applying longer washing periods for consecutive days seems desirable. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Improved stability and skin penetration through glycethosomes loaded with glycyrrhetinic acid

OBJECTIVE

In recent years, glycyrrhetinic acid (GA) has been popularly used in cosmetics because of its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects. However, due to the poor water solubility of GA and the barrier effect of human skin, the penetration of GA through the skin may be hindered. Liposomes are a common delivery system for functional compounds in cosmetics. Nonetheless, the stability and transdermal effect of traditional liposomes are limited. The aim of this work was to prepare a new liposome system that contained glycerol and ethanol to enhance the stability of the vesicles and promote the penetration of GA into the skin.

METHODS

The glycethosomes were prepared by ethanol injection and sonication method. The effects of different concentrations of glycerol and ethanol on the particle size, polydispersity (PDI), entrapment efficiency (EE), stability and rheological properties of vesicles were evaluated. Lipophilic and hydrophilic fluorescent probes were used to investigate the microviscosity of vesicles. In vitro permeation tests were performed with pig skin in Franz cells and the concentration of GA in different skin layers was determined by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The ability of different vesicles to induce lipid extraction and fluidization was analyzed by using attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR).

RESULTS

When glycerol was 50% and ethanol was 25%, the obtained glycethosomes had the smallest particle size and the best stability with a mean particle size of 94.5 nm, PDI 0.216 and 99.8% EE. Fluorescence probe studies indicated that the microviscosity of glycethosomes was the largest when the concentration of glycerol and ethanol was 50% and 25%, which was consistent with the storage stability of glycethosomes. It was found that the glycethosomes had the best transdermal effect and the total skin permeation percentage of GA was 20.67%, while that of ethosomes, glycerosomes, liposomes and dispersion were 10.56%, 9.38%, 7.78% and 5.02%, respectively. And glycethosomes had effectively lipid extraction and fluidization effect on the skin stratum corneum.

CONCLUSION

Compared to other traditional liposomes, glycethosomes can significantly improve the stability of vesicles and the transdermal effect of GA. Glycethosomes are promising vesicles for the delivery of GA.

Bioactive Bacterial Nanocellulose Membranes Enriched with Eucalyptus globulus Labill. Leaves Aqueous Extract for Anti-Aging Skin Care Applications

Bacterial nanocellulose (BNC) membranes, with remarkable physical and mechanical properties, emerged as a versatile biopolymeric carrier of bioactive compounds for skin care applications. In this study, BNC membranes were loaded with glycerol (as plasticizer and humectant agent) and different doses (1–3 μg cm⁻²) of an aqueous extract obtained from the hydro-distillation of Eucalyptus globulus Labill. leaves (HDE), for application as sheet facial masks. All membranes are resistant and highly malleable at dry and wet states, with similar or even better mechanical properties than those of a commercial BNC mask. Moreover, the HDE was found to confer a dose-dependent antioxidant activity to pure BNC. Additionally, upon 3 months of storage at 22–25 °C and 52% relative humidity (RH) or at 40 °C and 75% RH, it was confirmed that the antioxidant activity and the macroscopic aspect of the membrane with 2 μg cm⁻² of HDE were maintained. Membranes were also shown to be non-cytotoxic towards HaCaT and NIH/3T3 cells, and the membrane with 2 μg cm⁻² of HDE caused a significant reduction in the senescence-associated β-galactosidase activity in NIH/3T3 cells. These findings suggest the suitability and potential of the obtained membranes as bioactive facial masks for anti-aging applications.

Functional modification of HHCB: Strategy for obtaining environmentally friendly derivatives

Galaxolide (HHCB), one of the most widely used synthetic musks in personal care products (PCPs), has been recognized as an emerging contaminant with potential human health concerns. To overcome such adverse effects, a systematic molecular design, screening and performance evaluation approach was developed to generate functionally improved and environmentally friendly HHCB derivatives. Among the 90 designed HHCB derivatives, 15 were screened with improved functional properties (i.e., odor stability and intensity) and less environmental impacts (i.e., lower bio-toxicity, bio-accumulation ability, and mobility) using 3D-QSAR models and density functional theory methods. Their human health risks were then assessed by toxicokinetic analysis, which narrowed the candidates to four. Derivative 7, the designed molecule with the least dermal adsorption potential, was evaluated for its interaction with other PCPs additives (i.e., anti-photosensitivity materials and moisturizer) and such impacts on human health risks using molecular docking and molecular dynamic simulation. The environmental fate of Derivative 7 after transformation (i.e., photodegradation, biotransformation, and chlorination) was also discussed. Biotransformation and chlorination were recognized as optimum options for Derivative 7 mitigation. This study provided the theoretical basis for the design of functionally improved and environmentally friendly HHCB alternatives and advanced the understanding of their environmental behaviors and health risks.

Stratum Corneum Function: A Structural Study with Dynamic Synchrotron X-ray Diffraction Experiments

Studies on the effectiveness of substances such as drugs and cosmetics that act on the skin require structural evidence at the molecular level in the stratum corneum to clarify their interaction with intercellular lipid and soft keratin. For this purpose, when applying the substances to the stratum corneum X-ray diffraction experiment is one of the powerful tools. To detect minute structural changes in a stratum corneum sample, using a "solution cell", dynamic synchrotron X-ray diffraction measurements were performed when applying aqueous solution of the substances to the stratum corneum: (1) It was found that a surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulfate, significantly disrupted the long-period lamellar structure. (2) To study the effects of water, structural modifications of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin in corneocytes were measured as a function of time. At the initial water content of 15 wt%, the spacings of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin increased toward those at the water content of 25 wt%, that is a key water content in the stratum corneum. (3) Nanoparticles composed of assembly of amphiphilic molecules are one of the leading pharmaceutical formulations. When the nanoparticles were applied, a new assembly of amphiphilic molecules originated from the nanoparticle appeared. This phenomenon suggests that the formation of the new assembly at the surface of skin is concerned with the release of the drug from the nanoparticles. (4) When ethanol was applied to the stratum corneum, only the liquid state in the intercellular lipid matrix was dissolved. After the removal of ethanol from this stratum corneum, the ordered hydrocarbon-chain packing structures appeared. From this fact we would propose that the liquid state region is the main pathway for hydrophobic drugs with a small molecular weight in connection with the so-called 500 Da rule. Here, not only the technique but also the background to these studies and the characteristic results obtained from these studies are explained.