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Morgado-Carrasco D, Delgado J, Prudkin-Silva L, Santamaria J, Piquero-Casals J. Sunscreens prescribed to patients with skin of color and/or with melasma: A survey of 221 dermatologists and dermatology residents in Spain. PHOTODERMATOLOGY, PHOTOIMMUNOLOGY & PHOTOMEDICINE 2024; 40:e12996. [PMID: 39149878 DOI: 10.1111/phpp.12996] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/21/2023] [Revised: 04/18/2024] [Accepted: 08/02/2024] [Indexed: 08/17/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Dark-skinned individuals (DSI) present high rates of melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The use of sunscreens with mineral filters is essential for prevention and treatment. Our objective was to determine the preferences of dermatologists and dermatology residents in the prescription of sunscreens for DSI. METHODS An anonymous survey of attendees at an online photoprotection event held on March 31, 2022, in Spain. RESULTS The survey was answered by 66.6% (221/332) of the attendees: 159 dermatologists (71.9%) and 62 dermatology residents (28.1%). Respondents reported recommending the use of sunscreen to a median of 80% of DSI [interquartile range (IQR), 50-90]. Physicians reported prescribing tinted sunscreens to a median percentage of 60% (IQR, 25-90) of DSI with acne; and to a median percentage of 90% (IQR, 58-99) of DSI with melasma. The most prescribed photoprotectors to DSI with melasma were organic broad-spectrum sunscreens with antioxidants: 102/220 (46.4%) and mineral broad-spectrum sunscreens (with iron oxides): 45/220 (20.4%). In DSI with melasma or other pigmentary disorders, the most preferred features of sunscreens were as follows: sun protection factor ≥ 30: 217/221 (98.2%), UVA protection: 214/221 (96.8%), color for camouflage: 150/220 (68.2%) and mineral filters such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide: 151/220 (68.6%) or iron oxides: 131/220 (59.5%). LIMITATIONS Online survey, potential inclusion bias. CONCLUSIONS Respondents reported to prescribe sunscreens to the majority of DSI, and tinted sunscreens for the majority of DSI with pigmentary disorders. However, the most frequently recommended sunscreens for DSI were organic broad-spectrum sunscreens with antioxidants.
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Affiliation(s)
- Daniel Morgado-Carrasco
- Dermatology Department, Hospital Clínic de Barcelona, Universitat de Barcelona, Barcelona, Spain
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Deravi LF, Cui I, Martin CA. Using cephalopod-inspired chemistry to extend long-wavelength ultraviolet and visible light protection of mineral sunscreens. Int J Cosmet Sci 2024. [PMID: 39030969 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12993] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/17/2024] [Revised: 04/16/2024] [Accepted: 05/22/2024] [Indexed: 07/22/2024]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE The emergence of new human and environmental-related toxicity data associated with some common UV filters has catalysed growing interest in the inclusion of boosters and stabilizing ingredients in sunscreens. One approach is to incorporate alternative materials inspired by or mimetic of systems in biology, which offer a notable evolutionary advantage of multifunctionality and stability with increased biocompatibility. We describe the use of a natural product, Xanthochrome® (INCI: Ammonium Xanthommatin), in a series of studies designed to not only assess its safety with marine systems but also its formulation compatibility and function in water-in-oil mineral sunscreens. Xanthochrome is the synthetic form of the naturally occurring chromophore xanthommatin (XA) present in cephalopod skin, which doubles as a photostable antioxidant; however, it has never been explored in combination with mineral UV filters in finished formulations. METHODS Given the recent controversies associated with the environmental toxicological effects of some chemicals used in sunscreens, the safety of XA with coral cuttings was first validated at concentrations 5× above those used in our formulations. Next, a particle-based delivery of XA was designed and incorporated into a zinc oxide (ZnO)-based water-in-oil sunscreen, where the SPF, critical wavelength, and visible light (VL) blocking potential were measured. RESULTS We observed no adverse effects of XA at 100 mg/L when tested with coral cuttings, demonstrating its safety at concentrations exceeding those used in our sunscreens. When formulated with ZnO-based sunscreens, the inclusion of XA increased the total UV absorbance profile by 28% and the total blocking potential of VL by 45%. The formulations also elicited no dermal irritation or sensitization in a human insult repeat patch test (N = 100 subjects). CONCLUSIONS XA is differentiated as a photostable, water-soluble compound that is a VL booster proven safe for skin and coral cuttings. To the best of our knowledge, there are no other boosters that can be classified as such, despite a growing body of literature highlighting the need in the industry.
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Affiliation(s)
- Leila F Deravi
- Seaspire, Inc., Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA
- Department of Chemistry and Chemical Biology, Northeastern University, Boston, Massachusetts, USA
| | - Isabel Cui
- Seaspire, Inc., Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA
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Pellacani G, Lim HW, Stockfleth E, Sibaud V, Brugués AO, Saint Aroman M. Photoprotection: Current developments and controversies. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2024; 38 Suppl 5:12-20. [PMID: 38924160 DOI: 10.1111/jdv.19677] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/13/2023] [Accepted: 11/16/2023] [Indexed: 06/28/2024]
Abstract
This review aimed at summarizing some of the key points that were discussed during the photoprotection session at the International Forum of Dermatology in 2022. This international conference was designed to address prominent topics of clinical dermatology in a holistic way, allowing to articulate multiple viewpoints. Therefore, this review does not claim to be exhaustive, but is instead intended to give an overview of recent developments and ongoing controversies in the field of photoprotection. Cumulative ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure is the major aetiological factor in the development of photoageing, photoimunosuppression and photocarcinogenesis. UVA (320-400 nm) penetrates into the dermis and damages DNA and other intracellular and acellular targets primarily by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS). It is the major contributor to photoageing, characterized by fine and coarse wrinkles, dyspigmentation and loss of elasticity. UVB (290-320 nm) is responsible for sunburns through direct damage to DNA by the formation of 6-4 cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and pyrimidine 6-4 pyrimidone photoproducts. Both UVA and UVB exposure increase the risk of basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma. In recent years, visible light (VL; 400-700 nm) has also been implicated in the exacerbation of conditions aggravated by sun exposure such as hyperpigmentation and melasma. Photoprotection is a critical health strategy to reduce the deleterious effects of UVR and VL. Comprehensive photoprotection strategies include staying in the shade when outdoors, wearing photoprotective clothing including a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses, and the use of sunscreen. Due to the absorption of UV filters, the safety of sunscreens has been questioned. Newer sunscreens are becoming available with filters with absorption even beyond the UV spectrum, offering enhanced protection compared with older products. Prevention of photocarcinogenesis, sun-induced or sunlight-exacerbated hyperpigmentary conditions and drug-induced photosensitivity is an important reason for adopting comprehensive photoprotection strategies.
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Affiliation(s)
| | - Henry W Lim
- Department of Dermatology, Henry Ford Health, Detroit, Michigan, USA
| | - Eggert Stockfleth
- Klinik für Dermatologie, Venerologie und Allergologie, St. Josef-Hospital, Ruhr-Universität Bochum, Bochum, Germany
| | - Vincent Sibaud
- Department of Oncodermatology, Claudius Regaud Institute and University Cancer Institute Toulouse Oncopole, Toulouse, France
| | - Ariadna Ortiz Brugués
- Department of Oncodermatology, Claudius Regaud Institute and University Cancer Institute Toulouse Oncopole, Toulouse, France
- Laboratoires Dermatologiques Avène, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Les Cauquillous, Lavaur, France
| | - Markéta Saint Aroman
- Medical Direction Dermo-Cosmétique & Personal Care, Pierre Fabre Group, Toulouse, France
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Ezekwe N, Pourang A, Lyons AB, Narla S, Atyam A, Zia S, Friedman BJ, Hamzavi IH, Lim HW, Kohli I. Evaluation of the protection of sunscreen products against long wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light-induced biological effects. PHOTODERMATOLOGY, PHOTOIMMUNOLOGY & PHOTOMEDICINE 2024; 40:e12937. [PMID: 38069506 DOI: 10.1111/phpp.12937] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/31/2023] [Revised: 11/15/2023] [Accepted: 11/27/2023] [Indexed: 01/31/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Long wavelength ultraviolet-A1 in combination with visible light induces hyperpigmentation, particularly in dark-skin phototypes. This study evaluated the efficacy of four sunscreen formulations in protecting against VL + UVA1 (370-700 nm). METHODS The test products (A-D) were applied to the back of 12 volunteers, then irradiated with 320 J/cm2 VL + UVA1 (3.5% UVA1 [370-400 nm]). Immediately after irradiation, and at Days 1, 7, and 14, erythema and pigmentation were assessed by investigator global assessment (IGA), colorimetry (Δa* and ΔITA) and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS)-measured relative dyschromia (area under the curve AUC). Control areas were irradiated without sunscreen. RESULTS Product D, containing titanium dioxide 11%, iron oxides 1%, and antioxidants, provided the highest and most consistent protection. Compared with unprotected irradiated control, it had statistically significantly less erythema on IGA, DRS (Δoxyhemoglobin), and colorimetry (Δa*) at Day 0; less pigmentation on IGA at all time points, on DRS (relative dyschromia) at Days 7 and 14, and on colorimetry (ΔITA) at Day 0. Product B, containing zinc oxide 12% plus organic UV filters, iron oxides 4%, and antioxidants, also showed some efficacy. CONCLUSION Of the sunscreens tested, the tinted products provided better protection against VL + UVA1 than the non-tinted products. Since the product with 1% iron oxides was superior to the product with 4% iron oxides, further studies are needed to evaluate whether iron oxide content correlates with better protection.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nneamaka Ezekwe
- Department of Dermatology, Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Henry Ford Health, Detroit, Michigan, USA
| | - Aunna Pourang
- Department of Dermatology, Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Henry Ford Health, Detroit, Michigan, USA
| | - Alexis B Lyons
- Department of Dermatology, Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Henry Ford Health, Detroit, Michigan, USA
| | - Shanthi Narla
- Department of Dermatology, Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Henry Ford Health, Detroit, Michigan, USA
| | - Amruth Atyam
- Department of Dermatology, Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Henry Ford Health, Detroit, Michigan, USA
| | - Shereen Zia
- Department of Dermatology, Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Henry Ford Health, Detroit, Michigan, USA
| | - Ben J Friedman
- Department of Dermatology, Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Henry Ford Health, Detroit, Michigan, USA
| | - Iltefat H Hamzavi
- Department of Dermatology, Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Henry Ford Health, Detroit, Michigan, USA
| | - Henry W Lim
- Department of Dermatology, Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Henry Ford Health, Detroit, Michigan, USA
| | - Indermeet Kohli
- Department of Dermatology, Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Henry Ford Health, Detroit, Michigan, USA
- Department of Physics and Astronomy, Wayne State University, Detroit, Michigan, USA
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He X, Jin S, Dai X, Chen L, Xiang L, Zhang C. The Emerging Role of Visible Light in Melanocyte Biology and Skin Pigmentary Disorders: Friend or Foe? J Clin Med 2023; 12:7488. [PMID: 38068540 PMCID: PMC10707362 DOI: 10.3390/jcm12237488] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/19/2023] [Revised: 11/22/2023] [Accepted: 12/01/2023] [Indexed: 09/03/2024] Open
Abstract
Electromagnetic radiation, notably visible light (VL), has complicated effects on human skin, particularly pigmentation, which have been largely overlooked. In this review, we discuss the photobiological mechanisms, pathological effects, clinical applications and therapeutic strategies of VL at varying wavelengths on melanocyte biology and skin pigmentary disorders. Different VL wavelengths may impose positive or negative effects, depending on their interactions with specific chromophores, photoaging, ROS production, circadian rhythm and other photon-mediated reactions. Further in vivo and in vitro studies are required to establish the pathologic mechanisms and application principles of VL in pigmentary disorders, as well as optimal photoprotection with coverage against VL wavelengths.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | | | | | - Leihong Xiang
- Department of Dermatology, Huashan Hospital, Fudan University, Shanghai 200040, China; (X.H.); (S.J.); (X.D.); (L.C.)
| | - Chengfeng Zhang
- Department of Dermatology, Huashan Hospital, Fudan University, Shanghai 200040, China; (X.H.); (S.J.); (X.D.); (L.C.)
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Aguilera J, Gracia-Cazaña T, Gilaberte Y. New developments in sunscreens. Photochem Photobiol Sci 2023; 22:2473-2482. [PMID: 37543534 DOI: 10.1007/s43630-023-00453-x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/10/2022] [Accepted: 06/28/2023] [Indexed: 08/07/2023]
Abstract
Topical sunscreen application is one of the most important photoprotection tool to prevent sun damaging effects in human skin at the short and long term. Although its efficacy and cosmeticity have significantly improved in recent years, a better understanding of the biological and clinical effects of longer wavelength radiation, such as long ultraviolet A (UVA I) and blue light, has driven scientists and companies to search for effective and safe filters and substances to protect against these newly identified forms of radiation. New technologies have sought to imbue sunscreen with novel properties, such as the reduction of calorific radiation. Cutaneous penetration by sunscreens can also be reduced using hydrogels or nanocrystals that envelop the filters, or by binding filters to nanocarriers such as alginate microparticles, cyclodextrins, and methacrylate polymers. Finally, researchers have looked to nature as a source of healthier products, such as plant products (e.g., mycosporines, scytonemin, and various flavonoids) and even fungal and bacterial melanin, which could potentially be used as substitutes or enhancers of current filters.
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Affiliation(s)
- José Aguilera
- Photobiological Dermatology Laboratory, Medical Research Center, Department of Dermatology and Medicine, Faculty of Medicine, University of Malaga, Malaga, Spain
| | - Tamara Gracia-Cazaña
- Department of Dermatology, Miguel Servet University Hospital, IIS Aragón, Zaragossa, Spain.
- University of Zaragoza, University of Medicine, Zaragoza, Spain.
| | - Yolanda Gilaberte
- Department of Dermatology, Miguel Servet University Hospital, IIS Aragón, Zaragossa, Spain
- University of Zaragoza, University of Medicine, Zaragoza, Spain
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Seck S, Hamad J, Schalka S, Lim HW. Photoprotection in skin of color. Photochem Photobiol Sci 2023; 22:441-456. [PMID: 36227521 DOI: 10.1007/s43630-022-00314-z] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/09/2022] [Accepted: 09/25/2022] [Indexed: 10/17/2022]
Abstract
As populations in many parts of the world are projected to become more racially diverse over the coming decades, we must better understand the unique characteristics of the skin of populations with skin of color (SOC). This review aims to highlight important physiologic and clinical considerations of photoprotection in SOC. Ultraviolet radiation and visible light affect dark and light skin differently. SOC populations have historically not been informed on photoprotection to the same degree as their light skinned counterparts. This has exacerbated dermatologic conditions in which SOC populations are disproportionately affected, such as hyperpigmentary disorders. Patients should be encouraged to utilize multiple methods of photoprotection, ranging from avoidance of sunlight during peak intensity hours, seeking shade, wearing sun-protective clothing and wide-brimmed hat, and applying sunscreen. Ideal sunscreens for SOC populations include those with UVA-PF/SPF ratios ≥ 2/3 and tinted sunscreens to protect against VL. Although there have been increased efforts recently, more research into photoprotection for SOC and targeted public education are required to disseminate photoprotection resources that are patient-centered and evidence-based.
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Affiliation(s)
- Sokhna Seck
- Cleveland Clinic Lerner College of Medicine, Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH, USA
| | - Judy Hamad
- Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Department of Dermatology, Henry Ford Health, Henry Ford Medical Center - New Center One, 3031 West Grand Blvd, Suite 800, Detroit, MI, 48202, USA
| | | | - Henry W Lim
- Photomedicine and Photobiology Unit, Department of Dermatology, Henry Ford Health, Henry Ford Medical Center - New Center One, 3031 West Grand Blvd, Suite 800, Detroit, MI, 48202, USA.
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