Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol

Detection of Retinoic Acid in Cosmetics Using Reactive Paper Spray Ionization Mass Spectrometry

Chromatography-mass spectrometry typically requires a time-consuming and costly pretreatment to detect illegal additives in cosmetics. Retinoic acid is classified as a prohibited additive in cosmetics by the European Union and China. Therefore, a rapid and convenient method is needed for its detection. In this study, a method for detecting retinoic acid using Reactive Paper Spray Ionization Mass Spectrometry was developed. N'-dimethylpiperazine was used as the derivatization reagent due to its ability to react with carboxyl functional groups at room temperature. Our results indicate that the derivatized retinoic acid compounds obtained using this method exhibited good linearity within the range of 0.0005~0.1 μg·mL-1, achieving a limit of detection of 0.107 ng·mL-1.

Evaluating the Effectiveness and Safety of Home Facial Antiaging Beauty Devices Based on Meridian and Acupoint Theory

BACKGROUND

The increasing use of home beauty devices for antiaging raises questions about their efficacy and safety. Traditional Chinese medicine suggests that stimulating certain meridians and acupoints can aid in antiaging. This study evaluates the effects of two popular home facial devices on facial and body aging, integrating meridian and acupoint theory.

METHODS

A randomized controlled trial with 90 volunteers (25-65 years) over 4 weeks assessed the devices' impact on skin aging and physical health. Participants were divided into three groups: Group Y, Group J, and a control group. Outcomes were measured using VISIA imaging, standardized photographs, and the Quality of Life Scale, with safety assessments included.

RESULTS

Of the 90 participants, 80 completed the study. Both Group J and Group Y showed significant improvements in skin wrinkles, texture, radiance, and laxity compared to the control group (p < 0.05). No significant differences were found in physical health improvements (p > 0.05).

CONCLUSION

The devices showed effectiveness in improving facial skin aging but require further safety verification. The potential of meridian theory integration should be explored further, with a focus on device design and user-friendliness for future research.

Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.

Anti-wrinkle efficacy of standardized phenolic acids polymer extract (PAPE) from propolis: Implications for antiaging and skin health

BACKGROUND

The increasing quest for effective and safe antiaging skincare solutions has led to a surge in the exploration of natural compounds such as phenolic acids. Despite the proven efficacy of traditional antiaging ingredients like retinol, their associated side effects have necessitated the search for alternatives.

AIMS

This study aimed to assess the anti-wrinkle efficacy of a standardized phenolic acids polymer extract (PAPE) from propolis, employing both in vitro and clinical methodologies to explore its suitability as a novel antiaging skincare ingredient for sensitive and nonsensitive skin types.

PATIENTS/METHODS

The study comprised of evaluating PAPE effects on key skin health biomarkers in dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes. A double-blind, randomized clinical trial involving female participants aged 30-70 years assessed the wrinkle-reducing effectiveness of face creams formulated with two concentrations of PAPE (1.5% and 3%) over a 28-day period.

RESULTS

In vitro studies indicated that PAPE could modulate inflammation and tissue remodeling biomarkers. The clinical trial demonstrated that applying PAPE-enriched cream resulted in significant wrinkle reduction, with 25% and 34% improvements for the 1.5% and 3% PAPE formulations, respectively. Subjective feedback from participants further validated the antiaging efficacy and overall satisfaction with the product.

CONCLUSION

Incorporating PAPE offers a compelling antiaging solution, significantly reducing wrinkle depth with a favorable safety profile. The study substantiates PAPE's potential as an effective and safe alternative to conventional antiaging ingredients, aligning with the cosmetic industry's shift toward natural, evidence-based formulations.

Malnutrition and Allergies: Tipping the Immune Balance towards Health

Malnutrition, which includes macro- and micronutrient deficiencies, is common in individuals with allergic dermatitis, food allergies, rhinitis, and asthma. Prolonged deficiencies of proteins, minerals, and vitamins promote Th2 inflammation, setting the stage for allergic sensitization. Consequently, malnutrition, which includes micronutrient deficiencies, fosters the development of allergies, while an adequate supply of micronutrients promotes immune cells with regulatory and tolerogenic phenotypes. As protein and micronutrient deficiencies mimic an infection, the body's innate response limits access to these nutrients by reducing their dietary absorption. This review highlights our current understanding of the physiological functions of allergenic proteins, iron, and vitamin A, particularly regarding their reduced bioavailability under inflamed conditions, necessitating different dietary approaches to improve their absorption. Additionally, the role of most allergens as nutrient binders and their involvement in nutritional immunity will be briefly summarized. Their ability to bind nutrients and their close association with immune cells can trigger exaggerated immune responses and allergies in individuals with deficiencies. However, in nutrient-rich conditions, these allergens can also provide nutrients to immune cells and promote health.

Retinoids in the treatment of photoageing: A histological study of topical retinoid efficacy in black skin

BACKGROUND

Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes that occur due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The 'gold standard' for the treatment of photoaged white skin is all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, cosmetic retinol (ROL) has also proven efficacious. Recent work has identified that black skin is susceptible to photoageing, characterized by disintegration of fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). However, the impact of topical retinoids for repair of black skin has not been well investigated.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the potential of retinoids to repair photoaged black skin.

METHODS

An exploratory intervention study was performed using an in vivo, short-term patch test protocol. Healthy but photoaged black volunteers (>45 years) were recruited to the study, and participant extensor forearms were occluded with either 0.025% ATRA (n = 6; 4-day application due to irritancy) or ROL (12-day treatment protocol for a cosmetic) at concentrations of 0.3% (n = 6) or 1% (n = 6). Punch biopsies from occluded but untreated control sites and retinoid-treated sites were processed for histological analyses of epidermal characteristics, melanin distribution and dermal remodelling.

RESULTS

Treatment with ATRA and ROL induced significant acanthosis (all p < 0.001) accompanied by a significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation (Ki67; all p < 0.01), dispersal of epidermal melanin and restoration of the FRMs at the DEJ (all p < 0.01), compared to untreated control.

CONCLUSIONS

This study confirms that topical ATRA has utility for the repair of photoaged black skin and that ROL induces comparable effects on epidermal and dermal remodelling, albeit over a longer timeframe. The effects of topical retinoids on black photoaged skin are similar to those reported for white photoaged skin and suggest conserved biology in relation to repair of UVR-induced damage. Further investigation of topical retinoid efficacy in daily use is warranted for black skin.

Lipase B from Candida antarctica immobilized on amphiphilic Janus halloysite nanosheet and application in biphasic interface conversion

Lipase B from Candida antarctica (CALB) plays a prominent role as a biocatalyst in several industries, especially for biphasic conversion of functional lipids. Herein, an amphiphilic Janus halloysite nanosheet (JHNS) was fabricated and employed simultaneously as a solid surfactant for stabilizing Pickering emulsion and as a carrier for immobilizing CALB, with the aim to realize highly efficient biphasic bioconversion. The obtained JHNS could stabilize Pickering emulsion for at least 7 days. Immobilization of CALB on JHNS improved the substrate affinity, catalytic efficiency, thermal stability, and alkaline tolerance of the enzyme. Moreover, JHNS-based immobilized CALB was exploited as a biocatalytic platform for the conversion of retinyl acetate, with almost twice increase in conversion efficiency. Taken together, the JHNS-based immobilized CALB paves the way for the design of efficient biphasic conversion system for the production of added-value lipids.

Nutrition in chronic inflammatory conditions: Bypassing the mucosal block for micronutrients

Nutritional Immunity is one of the most ancient innate immune responses, during which the body can restrict nutrients availability to pathogens and restricts their uptake by the gut mucosa (mucosal block). Though this can be a beneficial strategy during infection, it also is associated with non-communicable diseases-where the pathogen is missing; leading to increased morbidity and mortality as micronutritional uptake and distribution in the body is hindered. Here, we discuss the acute immune response in respect to nutrients, the opposing nutritional demands of regulatory and inflammatory cells and particularly focus on some nutrients linked with inflammation such as iron, vitamins A, Bs, C, and other antioxidants. We propose that while the absorption of certain micronutrients is hindered during inflammation, the dietary lymph path remains available. As such, several clinical trials investigated the role of the lymphatic system during protein absorption, following a ketogenic diet and an increased intake of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, in reducing inflammation and ameliorating disease.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.