Caffeine improves barrier function in male skin

Quantification of skin penetration of caffeine and propylene glycol applied topically in a mixture by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares of depth-resolved Raman spectra

The quantitative determination of topically applied substances in the skin is severely limited and represents a challenging task. The porcine skin ex vivo was topically treated with a gel containing caffeine (CF) and propylene glycol (PG), and depth-resolved Raman spectra were recorded with two confocal Raman microscopes. We applied a novel tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares method to the selected spectral regions (512-604 and 778-1148 cm-1 ) of gel-treated skin and quantitatively determined the concentrations of CF and PG in the stratum corneum (SC). The highest concentration of CF (181 mg/cm3 ) was found at the surface, while PG (384 mg/cm3 ) was found at 10% SC depth, indicating the formation of a reservoir at the superficial SC. The concentrations of CF and PG decreased monotonically and reached the detection limit at ≈60% and ≈80% SC depth, respectively, indicating that neither permeate the SC.

In Vitro and In Vivo Anti-Aging Effect of Coffee Berry Nanoliposomes

Encapsulation of bioactive compounds in the liposome system provides several advantages, such as enhancing the stability and lowering the toxicity of active compounds. Coffee berry extract (CBE) has previously been established to have in vitro anti-aging properties and to retard the aging of human skin. The purposes of this study were to encapsulate CBE in nanoliposomes and to assess its stability and in vitro anti-aging potential in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF), as well as in healthy human skin. In the HDF model, anti-aging potential was determined by nitric oxide (NO) and collagenase inhibition assays and a superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity assay, whereas in healthy human skin (in vivo), the skin elasticity and brightness were examined. First, liposomal CBE (L-CBE) was created with a particle size of 117.33 ± 2.91 nm, a polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.36 ± 0.03, and a zeta potential of -56.13 ± 1.87 mV. The percentages of encapsulation efficacy (%EE) and loading efficacy (%LE) were 71.26 ± 3.12% and 2.18 ± 0.18%, respectively. After undergoing a 12-week stability test, the L-CBE retained more phenolic content than the free CBE when stored at 4 °C, room temperature, and 45 °C. Compared to free CBE, the L-CBE demonstrated a more consistent, elevated, and prolonged release of phenolics from the lipid system. In human dermal fibroblasts, L-CBE showed lower toxicity, and at its maximum nontoxic concentration (10 mg/mL), it exhibited slightly higher anti-aging effects than CBE, including NO inhibition, enhanced SOD activity, and anti-collagenase activities. In clinical trials (30 volunteer subjects), none of the participants' skin was irritated when the L-CBE, the CBE, or base creams were applied. After 2 weeks of application, the L-CBE and CBE creams both demonstrated an improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in melanin levels, and after 4 weeks, L-CBE cream showed a significantly greater improvement in skin elasticity and lightening. The results demonstrate that the encapsulation of the CBE in liposomal systems could increase its stability and skin penetration, reduce its toxicity, and maintain its anti-aging effect, which is powerful enough to be exploited in anti-aging and whitening agents for application in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.

Skin penetration of caffeine from commercial eye creams and eye creams designed and optimized based on Hansen Solubility Parameters

Computer-aided formulation design can streamline and speed up product development. In this study, ingredient screening and optimizing software, Formulating for Efficacy® (FFE), was used to design and optimize creams for the topical delivery of caffeine. FFE was set up to optimize lipophilic active ingredients, therefore, this study challenged the program's capabilities. The effect of two chemical penetration enhancers, including dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) and ethoxydiglycol (EDG), were studied based on their favorable Hansen Solubility Parameter physicochemical input parameters for the skin delivery of caffeine in the FFE® software application. Four oil-in-water emulsions containing 2% caffeine were formulated, one without a chemical penetration enhancer, one with five percent of DMI, one with five percent of EDG, and one with 2.5% of DMI and EDG each (DMI+EDG). Additionally, three commercial products were used as reference products. The cumulative amount of caffeine released and permeated, and the flux across Strat-M® membranes were determined using Franz diffusion cells. The eye creams had skin-compatible pH, excellent spreadability for the application area, were opaque emulsions with 14-17 μm droplet size, and were stable at 25 °C for 6 months. All four eye creams formulated released over 85% of caffeine in 24 hours, outperforming the commercial products. DMI+EDG cream provided the highest permeation in vitro in 24 hours, which was significantly higher than the commercial products (p < 0.05). FFE proved to be a valuable and quick tool to aid in the topical delivery of caffeine.

Biophysical and Subject-Based Assessment of the Effects of Topical Moisturizer Usage on Xerotic Skin—Part I: EpsilonTM 2D Skin Hydration

As new biophysical methods become available to the skin researcher, it is important to understand the type of information that they are capable of measuring, and how it relates to consumer perception of topical moisturizing products. This work was aimed at understanding how two-dimensional (2D) skin hydration mapping can be used to describe skin properties beyond the traditional ‘single number’ approach to skin hydration. Two-dimensional skin hydration measurement data were collected at baseline and after 1 week of in vivo usage of a topical moisturizing product. In addition, subject feedback regarding their skin condition obtained during the study was collected and assessed. Dividing the 2D hydration measurement device images into zones of different electrical permittivity scores enabled analysis of different aspects of the skin compared with traditional electrical skin hydration measurements. Improvement in skin flexibility as a result of use of the topical test product was demonstrated. Complete description of the skin’s hydration state through the creation of hydration histograms to describe its electrical characteristics was performed. Subject feedback data showed improvements in aspects of skin assessed using 2D hydration measurement.

Coffee pulp supplement affects antioxidant status and favors anti-aging of skin in healthy subjects

BACKGROUND

Coffee and coffee products are known potentially to reduce levels of oxidative stress biomarkers in humans.

OBJECTIVE

This investigation evaluates the effects of coffee pulp extract as a functional supplement (in coffee pulp drink, CPD) and a cosmetic ingredient (coffee pulp serum, CPS).

PATIENTS/METHODS

The effects of CPD and CPS for anti-oxidation and anti-aging were investigated. Forty subjects were randomly allocated to CPD or placebo drink groups (50 ml of a CPD/placebo drink daily for 8 weeks for each subject), and another 40 subjects were recruited to CPS or placebo serum groups (about 3 ml of a CPS/placebo serum day and night/daily for 4 weeks for each subject) in a double-blind study.

RESULTS

The CPD and CPS (20%) can increase free radical scavenging activities by 93.3% and 85% (p < 0.001) for DPPH, 94.5% and 61.3% (p < 0.01) for ABTS·⁺ , 43.8% and 15.3% (p < 0.05) for NO· than placebo. The inhibition of tyrosinase activity was increased by 91.6% and 51.0% (p < 0.05) after CPD and CPS application. The CPD comprehensively improved the moisture, brightness, elasticity, spotting, texture, and collagen content of skin for most subjects after 8 weeks, relative to the baseline without treatment (p < 0.05). After 4 weeks of CPS serum consumption, the brightness, elasticity, spotting, UV spots, and collagen content of skin were slightly better than those at week 0 (p < 0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

The daily consumption of coffee pulp extract products can slow the skin aging process and improve skin health.

Multi parametric biophysical assessment of treatment effects on xerotic skin

Background

Topical moisturizing products are widely used to alleviate the problems associated with xerotic skin. Their use affects many properties of the stratum corneum (SC) in a complex and interrelated manner. The range of measurement techniques available to the researcher has increased in recent years. However, few studies have looked for correlations between the different techniques for assessing how aspects of xerotic skin change over time as a result of topical moisturizer usage.

Objectives

A 3‐week in vivo study using an oil‐in‐water based moisturizing product and an untreated site was conducted to determine the clinical significance of and any correlations between a range of different approaches for the measurement of skin lipid content and also skin hydration and visual grading of dry skin.

Methods

A range of traditional and more recently developed skin measurement techniques have been used to examine a variety of SC properties in normal and xerotic skin during topical moisturizer usage.

Results

In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and analysis of SC lipids from tape strips both showed an increase in SC lipid level and organization after 3 weeks of moisturizer usage on xerotic skin. Hydration, measured both optically and electrically, also increased and skin barrier function improved, with strong correlations between the different measures of dryness being observed.

Conclusions

Strong correlations were observed between the skin measurements for lipid assessment and skin hydration with regard to the assessment of xerotic skin, providing valuable new information for future in vivo clinical research into dry and atopic skin.

Keywords

biophysical assessment, skin barrier, skin hydration, topical moisturizers, Xerosis

Targeted dry skin treatment using a multifunctional topical moisturizer

OBJECTIVE

The development of dry skin is a complex process, with a wide variety of factors each playing different roles in its evolution. Given this, it is important when designing a formulation to tackle dry skin that these varied aspects of skin behaviour are addressed. Presented here are the results of a 3-week moisturization study carried out on dry legs. A wide range of traditional and more recently developed biophysical measurement methods have been combined with visual assessment of skin condition to enable multiple aspects of skin function to be determined. The observed changes in the skin are discussed in terms of the ingredients used in the moisturizing formulation.

METHODS

A range of novel and traditional skin assessment methods and techniques were used to assess the effects of an oil in water-based moisturizing product compared to an untreated site during a 3-week in vivo study on dry lower leg skin.

RESULTS

Statistically significant improvements were observed in a range of skin parameters as a result of product usage. Skin hydration assessed using Corneometer®, Epsilon® and visual dry skin grading all increased after 3 weeks of use. Skin barrier function measured using transepidermal water loss also improved. Levels of cholesterol, free fatty acids and Ceramide NH increased, as well as the average length of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid lamella bilayers, and the ratio of lipid to protein increased (measured using Lipbarvis® and in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy). Increases in the levels of Ceramide EOS and NP were also observed, along with an improvement in corneocyte maturity, although these were not statistically significant.

CONCLUSIONS

Using a variety of traditional and novel skin assessment techniques, a wide range of factors associated with the evolution of dry skin have been assessed upon treatment with a new topical moisturizer. Product usage resulted in significant improvements to skin hydration and barrier function, the levels and morphology of SC barrier lipids, and overall epidermal differentiation. As a result there was a significant reduction in the characteristics associated with the development of dry skin after use of the test product.

Caffeine and Its Pharmacological Benefits in the Management of Androgenetic Alopecia: A Review

Caffeine, particularly after ingestion, is well known to exert various pharmacological effects. A growing body of evidence implicates the ingestion of caffeine with beneficial effects on several diseases. The easy penetration of caffeine across the skin barrier and into human skin makes caffeine an ideal compound for topical application. Hair loss is known to negatively affect the quality of life and predispose to depression and anxiety. Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most common type of hair loss in both men and women. To date, only few approved drug-based treatments for AGA exist, and these are inevitably associated with side effects. Therefore, the development of topical treatments based on well-tolerated natural ingredients such as caffeine to alleviate hair loss may provide a much-needed alternative to drug-based approaches.

The use of phosphodiesterase inhibitors for the treatment of alopecia

Background: Hair loss encompasses a group of scarring and nonscarring diseases with limited treatment options. Understanding the pathogenesis of alopecias has led to the experimental use of phosphodiesterase inhibitors (PDEi).Objective: To perform a systematic review of literature surrounding the use of PDEi for alopecia.Materials and methods: A search was conducted using PubMed in February 2019 on PDEi and alopecia. Inclusion criteria were clinical trials, prospective or retrospective studies, case series and case reports written in English, using PDEi in human subjects for the treatment of alopecia.Results: Fifteen articles were included for review - eight discussing the use of topical caffeine 0.2%-2.5% for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia (AGA) and telogen effluvium (TE), one using injectable caffeine for AGA, one using topical sildenafil for pediatric alopecia areata (AA), and five using oral apremilast for adult AA.Conclusions: Preliminary results using topical caffeine for AGA or TE are promising with minimal adverse events. However, these studies are primarily single-center trials with few patients. Studies using topical or systemic PDEi for AA demonstrate limited success. Current research using PDEi for alopecia is limited, however new clinical trials are being conducted.

Diabetic and sympathetic influences on the water permeability barrier function of human skin as measured using transepidermal water loss: A case-control study

The presence of long-standing hyperglycemic conditions has been suggested to lead to many skin problems associated with an impaired skin barrier function. However, the relationship between impaired skin barrier status and altered peripheral nervous system function has not yet been determined. The purpose of this study was to investigate the water evaporation rate as a measure of the permeability barrier function of diabetic skin and its relationship to diabetic sensorimotor polyneuropathy (DSPN) and peripheral autonomic neuropathy (PAN) using well-controlled confounding variables.This case-control study included 42 participants with chronic diabetes and 43 matched healthy controls. The diabetic group underwent a nerve conduction study and sympathetic skin response (SSR) test to confirm the presence of DSPN and PAN, respectively. Different skin regions were analyzed using the noninvasive Tewameter instrument (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Cologne, Germany). The impacts of PAN, DSPN, age, and diabetes duration on the values of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were each analyzed and compared between the groups.Regardless of the presence of DSPN or PAN, the TEWL values as measured on the distal extremities were significantly lower in the diabetic group than in the control group. In the diabetic group, participants with abnormal SSR test results showed decreased TEWL values in the finger, sole, and first toe, as compared with participants with normal SSR test results. In the control group, age showed a negative correlation with the TEWL values with respect to some measured regions. However, in the diabetic group, there was no significant correlation between either patient age or diabetes duration and TEWL values.The presence of a long-term hyperglycemic state can reduce the permeability barrier function of the skin, a phenomenon that might be related to the presence of an impaired peripheral sympathetic nervous system, rather than peripheral sensorimotor denervation.

Differential effects of caffeine on hair shaft elongation, matrix and outer root sheath keratinocyte proliferation, and transforming growth factor-β2/insulin-like growth factor-1-mediated regulation of the hair cycle in male and female human hair follicles in vitro

BACKGROUND

Caffeine reportedly counteracts the suppression of hair shaft production by testosterone in organ-cultured male human hair follicles (HFs).

OBJECTIVES

We aimed to investigate the impact of caffeine (i) on additional key hair growth parameters, (ii) on major hair growth regulatory factors and (iii) on male vs. female HFs in the presence of testosterone.

METHODS

Microdissected male and female human scalp HFs were treated in serum-free organ culture for 120 h with testosterone alone (0·5 μg mL(-1)) or in combination with caffeine (0·005-0·0005%). The following effects on hair shaft elongation were evaluated by quantitative (immuno)histomorphometry: HF cycling (anagen-catagen transition); hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation; expression of a key catagen inducer, transforming growth factor (TGF)-β2; and expression of the anagen-prolonging insulin-like growth factor (IGF)-1. Caffeine effects were further investigated in human outer root sheath keratinocytes (ORSKs).

RESULTS

Caffeine enhanced hair shaft elongation, prolonged anagen duration and stimulated hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation. Female HFs showed higher sensitivity to caffeine than male HFs. Caffeine counteracted testosterone-enhanced TGF-β2 protein expression in male HFs. In female HFs, testosterone failed to induce TGF-β2 expression, while caffeine reduced it. In male and female HFs, caffeine enhanced IGF-1 protein expression. In ORSKs, caffeine stimulated cell proliferation, inhibited apoptosis/necrosis, and upregulated IGF-1 gene expression and protein secretion, while TGF-β2 protein secretion was downregulated.

CONCLUSIONS

This study reveals new growth-promoting effects of caffeine on human hair follicles in subjects of both sexes at different levels (molecular, cellular and organ).

International guidelines for the in vivo assessment of skin properties in non-clinical settings: Part 2. transepidermal water loss and skin hydration

BACKGROUND

There is an emerging perspective that it is not sufficient to just assess skin exposure to physical and chemical stressors in workplaces, but that it is also important to assess the condition, i.e. skin barrier function of the exposed skin at the time of exposure. The workplace environment, representing a non-clinical environment, can be highly variable and difficult to control, thereby presenting unique measurement challenges not typically encountered in clinical settings.

METHODS

An expert working group convened a workshop as part of the 5th International Conference on Occupational and Environmental Exposure of Skin to Chemicals (OEESC) to develop basic guidelines and best practices (based on existing clinical guidelines, published data, and own experiences) for the in vivo measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin hydration in non-clinical settings with specific reference to the workplace as a worst-case scenario.

RESULTS

Key elements of these guidelines are: (i) to minimize or recognize, to the extent feasible, the influences of relevant endogenous-, exogenous-, environmental- and measurement/instrumentation-related factors; (ii) to measure TEWL with a closed-chamber type instrument; (iii) report results as a difference or percent change (rather than absolute values); and (iv) accurately report any notable deviations from this guidelines.

CONCLUSION

It is anticipated that these guidelines will promote consistent data reporting, which will facilitate inter-comparison of study results.

The contribution of endogenous and exogenous factors to female alopecia: a study of identical twins

BACKGROUND

In this study, the authors investigated the potential contribution of environmental factors and testosterone levels on androgenic alopecia in women.

METHODS

Ninety-eight identical female twins were recruited from 2009 to 2011. Subjects were asked to complete a comprehensive questionnaire, provide a sputum sample for testosterone analysis, and pose for standardized digital photography. Frontal, temporal, and vertex hair loss were assessed from the photographs using Adobe Photoshop. Hair loss measures were then correlated with survey responses and testosterone levels between twin pairs. Two independent, blinded observers also rated the photographs for hair thinning.

RESULTS

Factors associated with increased frontal hair loss included multiple marriages (p = 0.043); longer sleep duration (p = 0.011); higher severity of stress (p = 0.034); positive smoking history (p = 0.021); higher income (p = 0.023); absence of hat use (p = 0.017); and history of diabetes mellitus (p = 0.023), polycystic ovarian syndrome (p = 0.002), and hypertension (p = 0.001). Factors associated with increased temporal hair loss included divorce or separation (p = 0.034), multiple marriages (p = 0.040), more children (p = 0.005), longer sleep duration (p = 0.006), and history of diabetes mellitus (p = 0.008) and hypertension (p = 0.027). Lack of sun protection (p = 0.020), consuming less caffeine (p = 0.040), history of skin disease (p = 0.048), and lack of exercise (p = 0.012) were associated with increased vertex hair loss. Higher testosterone levels were associated with increased temporal and vertex hair loss patterns (p < 0.039). Increased stress, increased smoking, having more children, and having a history of hypertension and cancer were all associated with increased hair thinning (p < 0.05).

CONCLUSION

This study implicates several environmental risk factors in the pathophysiology of female alopecia.

Measuring the effects of topical moisturizers on changes in stratum corneum thickness, water gradients and hydration in vivo

BACKGROUND

Moisturizers are the most commonly used topically applied product for the treatment of dry skin conditions. They affect many properties and functions of the stratum corneum but some moisturizers have been reported to be detrimental to barrier function. Stratum corneum barrier function is a composite of its total structure and thickness but few studies have taken this into account. As a biosensor, the stratum corneum (SC) will change its structure in response to treatment and a swelling effect has been clearly demonstrated by skin hydration. Recently several moisturizing agents have been shown to have an effect on SC swelling behaviour with conflicting results. However, there is a paucity of data reported for measuring the effects of long-term usage of moisturizers on SC thickness in vivo as, until recently, traditional techniques did not have the resolution to measure the effects of moisturizers on nonpalmoplantar body sites. The development of confocal Raman spectroscopy for use in human subjects provides noninvasive, real-time, in vivo measurement of SC water concentration profiles and we have also used this state of the art equipment to measure the effect of the long-term use of moisturizers on SC thickness for the first time.

OBJECTIVES

To validate the use of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) to measure SC thickness and then use it to investigate the short- and long-term effects of moisturizers (one of which is known to improve SC barrier function) on SC thickness, water gradients and hydration.

METHODS

Two studies were conducted: (i) to validate the use of CRS for measuring SC thickness through comparison with optical coherence tomography (OCT); and (ii) once validated to use CRS to measure the long-term effects of three commercially available moisturizers (A, B, C) on SC thickness and water gradients, together with total hydration, over a 3-week period (2 weeks of treatment and 1 week regression) and compare the spectroscopy-derived hydration value with instrumentally derived capacitance hydration values.

RESULTS

(i) A strong, positive correlation in SC thickness was obtained between CRS and OCT (OCT-derived thickness = 0.96 x CRS-derived thickness, r(2) = 0.93; P <0.0001). OCT was shown, however, to have a lower resolution than CRS in distinguishing SC thickness on thinner nonpalmoplantar body sites. Using the CRS method, differences in SC thickness were readily apparent on different body sites (cheek 12.8 +/- 0.9 microm, volar forearm 18.0 +/- 3.9 microm, leg 22.0 +/- 6.9 microm). (ii) Examining the effects of moisturizers in a blinded, randomized 3-week study in human volunteers (n = 14) demonstrated that only one commercially available formulation (A) changed SC water gradients, thickness and hydration as measured by CRS. These hydration data did not directly correlate with capacitance hydration values.

CONCLUSIONS

(i) In vivo CRS was validated as a technique to measure SC thickness on both palmoplantar and, particularly, on nonpalmoplantar skin sites. (ii) Moisturizers improve skin moisturization but in this study only formulation A improved SC thickness, water gradients and hydration as measured by CRS. We hypothesize that this was due to compositional differences between the products. We believe that niacinamide (nicotinamide, vitamin B(3)) is probably contributing significantly to this effect, as it has been proven to increase epidermal lipogenesis and SC barrier function in other studies. These results show that by using CRS, we were able for the first time to determine the effect of moisturizer on multiple SC barrier endpoints including SC thickness, and water content as a function of depth and total SC water content.