Application of substrate curvature method to differentiate drying stresses in topical coatings and human stratum corneum

Sensory neuron activation from topical treatments modulates the sensorial perception of human skin

Neural signaling of skin sensory perception from topical treatments is often reported in subjective terms such as a sensation of skin "tightness" after using a cleanser or "softness" after applying a moisturizer. However, the mechanism whereby cutaneous mechanoreceptors and corresponding sensory neurons are activated giving rise to these perceptions has not been established. Here, we provide a quantitative approach that couples in vitro biomechanical testing and detailed computational neural stimulation modeling along with a comprehensive in vivo self-assessment survey to demonstrate how cutaneous biomechanical changes in response to treatments are involved in the sensorial perception of the human skin. Strong correlations are identified between reported perception up to 12 hours post treatment and changes in the computed neural stimulation from mechanoreceptors residing deep under the skin surface. The study reveals a quantitative framework for understanding the biomechanical neural activation mechanism and the subjective perception by individuals.

Ectoine disperses keratin and alters hydration kinetics in stratum corneum

Moisturizing compounds are commonly applied topically to human stratum corneum (SC). Many types of molecular species are employed, most commonly including humectants and occlusives. We find new evidence of keratin dispersion caused by the moisturizing compound ectoine (1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid), and provide the first characterization of its impacts on the hydration kinetics and biomechanics of SC. A second compound, 2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethylguanidine succinate (HEG) was investigated for comparison. A suite of biomechanical and biochemical assays including FTIR, drying stress, and cellular cohesion were used. Studies were conducted on normal, lipid-extracted, and lipid plus natural moisturizing factor extracted SC. Ectoine was found to improve the dispersity and hydration of keratin bundles in corneocytes. It also decreased rates of stress development in lipid extracted SC when exposed to a dry environment by ∼30% while improving stress reduction during rehydration by ∼20%. Peak stresses were increased in harsh drying environments of <5% RH, but SC swelling measurements suggest that water retention was improved in ambient conditions. Further, changes up to ∼4 J/m² were seen in cohesion after ectoine treatments, suggesting corneodesmosome interactions. HEG was tested and found to disperse keratin without impacting corneodesmosomes. These results indicate that keratin dispersants produce beneficial effects on SC hydration kinetics, ultimately resulting in higher SC hydration under ambient conditions.

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First study demonstrating the biomechanical impact of keratin dispersion on human skin

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Ectoine disperses keratin bundles in human stratum corneum

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Rates of drying stress development are reduced in keratin-dispersed skin

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Rehydration rates are increased in keratin-dispersed skin

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Keratin dispersion alters corneocyte cohesion profiles

Comprehensive characterization of the structure and properties of human stratum corneum relating to barrier function and skin hydration: modulation by a moisturizer formulation

The stratum corneum (SC) is key in the maintenance of the biomechanical barrier and hydration of skin. Our previous investigations showed beneficial effects of a combination of emollients on water capture and retention and protein and lipid organization, all of which are linked to dryness and dry skin damage. Here, we show how a formulation containing an emollient combination ("Trio") and its basal formulation (placebo) impacted the descriptors of SC hydration in SC layers. Only the Trio formulation-not its placebo formulation-modified SC biomechanical drying stress behaviour and imparted a high capacity to protect it from dehydration. This was in accordance with findings at the molecular level using Raman analyses and at the structural level using cryo-scanning electron microscopy (SEM). After topical application, only the Trio formulation profoundly increased lateral packing of lipids and their compactness. Cryo-SEM showed that, unlike the placebo formulation, the Trio formulation prevented the water loss when applied before the dehydration process. In conclusion, these studies demonstrate that stresses in the SC due to dehydration can be alleviated using a formulation containing emollients that interact with the SC lipid components.

Emollient structure and chemical functionality effects on the biomechanical function of human stratum corneum

OBJECTIVE

Cosmetic emollients are widely used in skincare formulations due to their ability to 'soften' the skin and modulate formulation spreadability. Though emollients are commonly used, little is known about their effects on the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC), which play a critical role in consumer perception of formulation efficacy. Accordingly, our objective was to provide new insights with a study involving fourteen cosmetic emollient molecules with widely varying structures, molecular weights, SC diffusivities, topological polar surface areas (TPSAs), viscosities and chemical functionalities.

METHODS

Mechanical stress in the SC was measured in vitro using a substrate curvature measurement technique. Stress development due to SC drying was measured before and after topical treatment with cosmetic emollients. Emollient diffusivity and alterations to lipid content in SC after treatment were measured via ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. The maximum penetration volume of emollient in SC was characterized to elucidate mechanisms underlying emollient effects on stress.

RESULTS

The application of all cosmetic emollients caused a reduction in SC mechanical stress under dehydrating conditions, and a linear correlation was discovered between emollient penetration volume and the degree of stress reduction. These molecules also induced increases in stress equilibration rate, signalling changes to SC transport kinetics. Stress equilibration rate increases linearly correlated with decreasing intensity of the νCH2 band, indicating a previously unknown interaction between cosmetic emollients and SC lipids. Stress and penetration volume results were rationalized in terms of a multi-parameter model including emollient molecular weight, diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity.

CONCLUSION

We provide a new rational basis for understanding the effects of cosmetic emollient choice on biomechanical properties affecting SC barrier function and consumer perception. We demonstrate for the first time that emollients very likely reduce SC mechanical stress through their ability to take up volume when penetrating the SC, and how molecular weight, SC diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity are predictive of this ability. As cosmetic formulations continue to evolve to meet the needs of customers, emollient molecules can be selected that not only contribute to formulation texture and/or spreadability but that also leverage this novel connection between emollient penetration and SC biomechanics.

Protective properties of Avène Thermal Spring Water on biomechanical, ultrastructural and clinical parameters of human skin

BACKGROUND

Thermal Spring Water (TSW) has been recognized to have beneficial effects on skin; however, the mechanisms underlying these are not completely elucidated.

AIMS

We compared the effects of Avène TSW with mineral-rich (MR) TSW on the biomechanical properties of the skin using mechanistic ex vivo assays and clinical studies.

METHODS

Ex vivo studies included the effect of both TSWs on the structure of the surface of human skin explants using scanning electron microscopy (SEM); mineral elemental content on the skin surface using SEM coupled to energy dispersing X-ray spectroscopy; and the stress properties of the stratum corneum (SC) when exposed to dehydration. Human clinical studies were conducted to compare the soothing effect of TSWs after a dermatological chemical peeling of face skin and to evaluate the overall sensitive scale of consumers using Avène TSW for 7 days.

RESULTS

Both TSWs preserved surface skin ultrastructure; however, crystals formed from MR-TSW were needle-like and formed small grains, present in clusters heterogeneously spread over the surface. Needle crystals were mainly composed of calcium, while small clusters were mainly composed of sulphur. By contrast, Avène TSW-formed crystals composed of sodium and chlorine only were regular in shape and homogeneously distributed across the skin surface. Peak stress of SC layers was increased by MR-TSW, whereas Avène TSW showed a comparatively reduced effect on dehydration and stress. The difference in the two TSW types was reflected in clinical findings comparing postpeeling redness after TSW application. Avène TSW significantly decreased postpeeling redness, while MR-TSW increased it. The overall sensitive scale of consumers was decreased by 47% using Avène TSW for 7 days.

CONCLUSIONS

Avène TSW decreases postpeeling redness and soothes sensitive skin in human volunteers. Mechanistic studies suggested that differences in biomechanical effects could be linked to differences in calcium content of the TSW.

Effect of emulsifiers on drying stress and intercellular cohesion in human stratum corneum

OBJECTIVES

Emulsifier molecules, with their amphiphilic character, are ubiquitous in moisturizing creams and primarily serve to disperse the water-insoluble molecules such as emollients, oils, lipids and fats in water. The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of emulsifier molecules on the barrier and biomechanical properties of human stratum corneum (SC) and to compare the efficacy of emulsifier molecules when used in a fully formulated moisturizing cream.

METHODS

We employed methods based on thin-film mechanics to measure the drying stress and intercellular cohesion in the SC. The emulsifier molecules or moisturizing creams formulated with them were applied to a fully hydrated SC adhered to a glass substrate. In-plane stress developed in the SC during drying was then measured by tracking changes in the curvature of the glass substrate. The intercellular cohesion within the SC was measured by means of a double cantilever beam (DCB) set-up, where the treated or untreated SC was sandwiched between two substrates, and the delamination energy calculated by measuring the force required to drive a crack through the SC. Moisturizing cream diffusivity through the stratum corneum was measured by spectroscopic technique and related to internal SC stress and fracture energy.

RESULTS

We observe significant differences in the biomechanical behaviour of SC when moisturizing creams with different emulsifier molecules are applied on isolated stratum corneum ex vivo. The reduction in maximum stress varied between 12% and 26% depending on the emulsifier molecules used in the formulation. The intercellular cohesion and the diffusion of molecules in the formulated moisturizing creams through the SC were also found to be strongly dependent on the type of emulsifier molecule used in the formulation.

CONCLUSIONS

The biomechanical and barrier properties of the human stratum corneum show strong dependence on the emulsifier molecule used in the moisturizing creams, even when the creams included only ~3 weight% emulsifier molecules. Moreover, we found that the reduction in SC peak stress was strongly correlated with the formulation diffusivity into the SC. The moisturizing creams diffusing fastest into the SC had the largest reduction in peak stress and vice versa.

Structural and Biomechanical Characterization of a Scaffold-Free Skin Equivalent Model via Biophysical Methods

AIMS

Among in vitro skin models, the scaffold-free skin equivalent (SFSE), without exogenous material, is interesting for pharmacotoxicological studies. Our aim was to adapt in vivo biophysical methods to study the structure, thickness, and extracellular matrix of our in vitro model without any chemical fixation needed as for histology.

METHODS

We evaluated 3 batches of SFSE and characterized them by histology, transmission electron microscopy (TEM), and immunofluorescence. In parallel, we investigated 3 biophysical methods classically used for in vivo evaluation, optical coherence tomography (OCT), and laser scanning microscopy (LSM) imaging devices as well as the cutometer suction to study the biomechanical properties.

RESULTS

OCT allowed the evaluation of SFSE total thickness and its different compartments. LSM has a greater resolution enabling an evaluation at the cell scale and the orientation of collagen fibers. The viscoelasticity measurement by cutometry was possible on our thin skin model and might be linked with mature collagen bundles visible in TEM and LSM and with elastic fibers seen in immunofluorescence.

CONCLUSION

Our data demonstrated the simplicity and sensitivity of these different in vivo biophysical devices on our thin skin model. These noninvasive tools allow to study the morphology and the biomechanics of in vitro models.

Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

The impact of sunscreen formulations on the barrier properties of human skin are often overlooked leading to formulations with components whose effects on barrier mechanical integrity are poorly understood. The aim of this study is to demonstrate the relevance of carrier selection and sunscreen photostability when designing sunscreen formulations to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC) from solar ultraviolet (UV) damage. Biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed after accelerated UVB damage through measurements of the SC's mechanical stress profile and corneocyte cohesion. A narrowband UVB (305-315 nm) lamp was used to expose SC samples to 5, 30, 125, and 265 J cm-2 in order to magnify damage to the mechanical properties of the tissue and characterize the UV degradation dose response such that effects from smaller UV dosages can be extrapolated. Stresses in the SC decreased when treated with sunscreen components, highlighting their effect on the skin prior to UV exposure. Stresses increased with UVB exposure and in specimens treated with different sunscreens stresses varied dramatically at high UVB dosages. Specimens treated with sunscreen components without UVB exposure exhibited altered corneocyte cohesion. Both sunscreens studied prevented alteration of corneocyte cohesion by low UVB dosages, but differences in protection were observed at higher UVB dosages indicating UV degradation of one sunscreen. These results indicate the protection of individual sunscreen components vary over a range of UVB dosages, and components can even cause alteration of the biomechanical barrier properties of human SC before UV exposure. Therefore, detailed characterization of sunscreen formulation components is required to design robust protection from UV damage.

On skin microrelief and the emergence of expression micro-wrinkles

Over the course of a life time, as a result of adaptive mechanobiological processes (e.g. ageing), or the action of external physical factors such as mechanical loading, the human skin is subjected to, and hosts complex biophysical processes. These phenomena typically operate through a complex interplay, that, ultimately, is responsible for the evolutive geometrical characteristics of the skin surface. Wrinkles are a manifestation of these effects. Although numerous theoretical models of wrinkles arising in multi-layered structures have been proposed, they typically apply to idealised geometries. In the case of skin, which can be viewed as a geometrically complex multi-layer assembly, it is pertinent to question whether the natural skin microrelief could play a significant role in conditioning the characteristics of compression-induced micro-wrinkles by acting as an array of geometrical imperfections. Here, we explore this question through the development of an anatomically-based finite strain parametric finite element model of the skin, represented as a stratum corneum layer on top of a thicker and softer substrate. Our study suggests that skin microrelief could be the dominant factor conditioning micro-wrinkle characteristics for moderate elastic modulus ratios between the two layers. Beyond stiffness ratios of 100, other factors tend to overwrite the effects of skin microrelief. Such stiffness ratio fluctuations can be induced by changes in relative humidity or particular skin conditions and can therefore have important implications for skin tribology.

Screening sunscreens: protecting the biomechanical barrier function of skin from solar ultraviolet radiation damage

OBJECTIVE

Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is ubiquitous in human life and well known to cause skin damage that can lead to harmful conditions such as erythema. Although sunscreen is a popular form of protection for some of these conditions, it is unclear whether sunscreen can maintain the mechanical barrier properties of skin. The objective of this study was to determine whether in vitro thin-film mechanical analysis techniques adapted for biological tissue are able to characterize the efficacy of commonly used UV inhibitors and commercial sunscreens to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of stratum corneum (SC) from UV exposure.

METHODS

The biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed through measurements of the SC's drying stress profile and delamination energy. The drying stresses within SC were characterized from the curvature of a borosilicate glass substrate onto which SC had been adhered. Delamination energies were characterized using a double-cantilever beam (DCB) cohesion testing method. Successive DCB specimens were prepared from previously separated specimens by adhering new substrates onto each side of the already tested specimen to probe delamination energies deeper into the SC. These properties of the SC were measured before and after UV exposure, both with and without sunscreens applied, to determine the role of sunscreen in preserving the barrier function of SC.

RESULTS

The drying stress in SC starts increasing sooner and rises to a higher plateau stress value after UVA exposure as compared to non-UV-exposed control specimens. For specimens that had sunscreen applied, the UVA-exposed and non-UV-exposed SC had similar drying stress profiles. Additionally, specimens exposed to UVB without protection from sunscreen exhibited significantly lower delamination energies than non-UV-exposed controls. With commercial sunscreen applied, the delamination energy for UV-exposed and non-UV-exposed tissue was consistent, even up to large doses of UVB.

CONCLUSION

In vitro thin-film mechanical analysis techniques can readily characterize the effects of SC's exposure to UV radiation. The methods used in this study demonstrated commercial sunscreens were able to preserve the biomechanical properties of SC during UV exposure, thus indicating the barrier function of SC was also maintained.

The global mechanical properties and multi-scale failure mechanics of heterogeneous human stratum corneum

The outermost layer of skin, or stratum corneum, regulates water loss and protects underlying living tissue from environmental pathogens and insults. With cracking, chapping or the formation of exudative lesions, this functionality is lost. While stratum corneum exhibits well defined global mechanical properties, macroscopic mechanical testing techniques used to measure them ignore the structural heterogeneity of the tissue and cannot provide any mechanistic insight into tissue fracture. As such, a mechanistic understanding of failure in this soft tissue is lacking. This insight is critical to predicting fracture risk associated with age or disease. In this study, we first quantify previously unreported global mechanical properties of isolated stratum corneum including the Poisson's ratio and mechanical toughness. African American breast stratum corneum is used for all assessments. We show these parameters are highly dependent on the ambient humidity to which samples are equilibrated. A multi-scale investigation assessing the influence of structural heterogeneities on the microscale nucleation and propagation of cracks is then performed. At the mesoscale, spatially resolved equivalent strain fields within uniaxially stretched stratum corneum samples exhibit a striking heterogeneity, with localized peaks correlating closely with crack nucleation sites. Subsequent crack propagation pathways follow inherent topographical features in the tissue and lengthen with increased tissue hydration. At the microscale, intact corneocytes and polygonal shaped voids at crack interfaces highlight that cracks propagate in superficial cell layers primarily along intercellular junctions. Cellular fracture does occur however, but is uncommon.

STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE

Human stratum corneum protects the body against harmful environmental pathogens and insults. Upon mechanical failure, this barrier function is lost. Previous studies characterizing the mechanics of stratum corneum have used macroscopic testing equipment designed for homogenous materials. Such measurements ignore the tissue's rich topography and heterogeneous structure, and cannot describe the underlying mechanistic process of tissue failure. For the first time, we establish a mechanistic insight into the failure mechanics of soft heterogeneous tissues by investigating how cracks nucleate and propagate in stratum corneum. We further quantify previously unreported values of the tissue's Poisson's ratio and toughness, and their dramatic variation with ambient humidity. To date, skin models examining drug delivery, wound healing, and ageing continue to estimate these parameters.

Understanding age-induced alterations to the biomechanical barrier function of human stratum corneum

BACKGROUND

The appearance and function of human skin are dramatically altered with aging, resulting in higher rates of severe xerosis and other skin complaints. The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), is responsible for the biomechanical barrier function of skin and is also adversely transformed with age. With age the keratin filaments within the corneocytes are prone to crosslinking, the amount of intercellular lipids decreases resulting in fewer lipid bilayers, and the rate of corneocyte turnover decreases.

OBJECTIVES

The effect of these structural changes on the mechanical properties of the SC has not been determined. Here we determine how several aspects of the SC's mechanical properties are dramatically degraded with age.

METHODS

We performed a range of biomechanical experiments, including micro-tension, bulge, double cantilever beam, and substrate curvature testing on abdominal stratum corneum from cadaveric female donors ranging in age from 29 to 93 years old.

RESULTS

We found that the SC stiffens with age, indicating that the keratin fibers stiffen, similarly to collagen fibers in the dermis. The cellular cohesion also increases with age, a result of the altered intercellular lipid structure. The kinetics of water movement through the SC is also decreased.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results indicate that the combination of structural and mechanical property changes that occur with age are quite significant and may contribute to the prevalence of skin disorders among the elderly.

A mechanistic insight into the mechanical role of the stratum corneum during stretching and compression of the skin

The study of skin biophysics has largely been driven by consumer goods, biomedical and cosmetic industries which aim to design products that efficiently interact with the skin and/or modify its biophysical properties for health or cosmetic benefits. The skin is a hierarchical biological structure featuring several layers with their own distinct geometry and mechanical properties. Up to now, no computational models of the skin have simultaneously accounted for these geometrical and material characteristics to study their complex biomechanical interactions under particular macroscopic deformation modes. The goal of this study was, therefore, to develop a robust methodology combining histological sections of human skin, image-processing and finite element techniques to address fundamental questions about skin mechanics and, more particularly, about how macroscopic strains are transmitted and modulated through the epidermis and dermis. The work hypothesis was that, as skin deforms under macroscopic loads, the stratum corneum does not experience significant strains but rather folds/unfolds during skin extension/compression. A sample of fresh human mid-back skin was processed for wax histology. Sections were stained and photographed by optical microscopy. The multiple images were stitched together to produce a larger region of interest and segmented to extract the geometry of the stratum corneum, viable epidermis and dermis. From the segmented structures a 2D finite element mesh of the skin composite model was created and geometrically non-linear plane-strain finite element analyses were conducted to study the sensitivity of the model to variations in mechanical properties. The hybrid experimental-computational methodology has offered valuable insights into the simulated mechanics of the skin, and that of the stratum corneum in particular, by providing qualitative and quantitative information on strain magnitude and distribution. Through a complex non-linear interplay, the geometry and mechanical characteristics of the skin layers (and their relative balance), play a critical role in conditioning the skin mechanical response to macroscopic in-plane compression and extension. Topographical features of the skin surface such as furrows were shown to act as an efficient means to deflect, convert and redistribute strain-and so stress-within the stratum corneum, viable epidermis and dermis. Strain reduction and amplification phenomena were also observed and quantified. Despite the small thickness of the stratum corneum, its Young׳s modulus has a significant effect not only on the strain magnitude and directions within the stratum corneum layer but also on those of the underlying layers. This effect is reflected in the deformed shape of the skin surface in simulated compression and extension and is intrinsically linked to the rather complex geometrical characteristics of each skin layer. Moreover, if the Young׳s modulus of the viable epidermis is assumed to be reduced by a factor 12, the area of skin folding is likely to increase under skin compression. These results should be considered in the light of published computational models of the skin which, up to now, have ignored these characteristics.

The relationship between water loss, mechanical stress, and molecular structure of human stratum corneum ex vivo

Proper hydration of the stratum corneum (SC) is important for maintaining skin's vital functions. Water loss causes development of drying stresses, which can be perceived as 'tightness', and plays an important role in dry skin damage processes. However, molecular structure modifications arising from water loss and the subsequent development of stress has not been established. We investigated the drying stress mechanism by studying, ex vivo, the behaviors of the SC components during water desorption from initially fully hydrated samples using Raman spectroscopy. Simultaneously, we measure the SC mechanical stress with a substrate curvature instrument. Very good correlations of water loss to the mechanical stress of the stratum corneum were obtained, and the latter was found to depend mainly on the unbound water fraction. In addition to that, the water loss is accompanied with an increase of lipids matrix compactness characterized by lower chain freedom, while protein structure showed an increase in amount of α-helices, a decline in α-sheets, and an increase in folding in the tertiary structure of keratin. The drying process of SC involves a complex interplay of water binding, molecular modifications, and mechanical stress. This article provides a better understanding of the molecular mechanism associated to SC mechanics.

Increased mass levels of certain serine proteases in the stratum corneum in acute eczematous atopic skin

Acute eczematous atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with increases in stratum corneum (SC) serine protease activity. The purpose of this study was to examine whether the increased SC protease activities in acute eczematous atopic dermatitis were associated with increased mass levels of SC proteases. Six subjects with healthy skin and six patients with AD each with non-lesional skin or lesional acute eczematous skin had the mass levels of their extractable SC kallikreins (KLK), plasmin and urokinase quantified using Luminex multiplex bead-based assays from SC tape strippings. The mass levels of KLK5 and KLK14 together with urokinase were not elevated in the SC in atopic skin. However, the mass levels of KLK7 and KLK11 together with plasmin were greatly elevated compared with the extracts from the non-lesional and the healthy skin and correlated with the corresponding enzymatic activities.

Emollient molecule effects on the drying stresses in human stratum corneum

BACKGROUND

Emollient molecules are widely used in skin care formulations to improve skin sensory properties and to alleviate dry skin but little is understood regarding their effects on skin biomechanical properties.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the effects of emollient molecules on drying stresses in human stratum corneum (SC) and how these stresses are related to SC components and moisture content.

METHODS

The substrate curvature method was used to measure the drying stresses in isolated SC following exposure to selected emollient molecules. While SC stresses measured using this method have the same biaxial in vivo stress state and moisture exchange with the environment, a limitation of the method is that moisture cannot be replenished by the underlying skin layers. This provides an opportunity to study the direct effects of emollient treatments on the moisture content and the components of the SC. Attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was used to determine the effects of emollient molecules on SC lipid extraction and conformation. Results Emollient molecules resulted in a complex SC drying stress profile where stresses increased rapidly to peak values and then gradually decreased to significantly lower values compared with the control. The partially occlusive treatments also penetrated into the SC where they caused extraction and changes in lipid conformation. These effects together with their effects on SC moisture content are used to rationalize the drying stress profiles.

CONCLUSIONS

Emollient molecules have dramatic effects on SC drying stresses that are related to their effects on intercellular lipids and SC moisture content.