The stratum corneum: a double paradox

Allergens in Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease with a complex relationship to allergens. While AD itself is not an allergic reaction and does not necessarily involve allergen sensitization, AD patients show higher rates of sensitization to food and inhalant allergens compared to the general population. Recent evidence refining the "dual allergen exposure hypothesis" demonstrates that early oral exposure to allergens through an intact gastrointestinal barrier typically promotes tolerance, while exposure through compromised skin or respiratory barriers often leads to sensitization. Therefore, the impaired skin barrier function in AD patients increases the risk of transcutaneous sensitization and may interfere with oral tolerance development. Interestingly, AD patients' sensitivity to contact allergens (such as metals and fragrances) is not necessarily higher than that of the general population, which may be related to the inherent properties of these allergens. Personalized allergen testing can help guide appropriate allergen avoidance and reintroduction strategies in AD management. The insights into optimal allergen exposure conditions have also expanded the potential applications of allergen-specific immunotherapy in preventing AD onset in high-risk populations and halting the atopic march.

Assessment of current practices and perceived effectiveness of injectable polynucleotide for enlarged facial pores among cosmetic physicians: A survey-based evaluation

BACKGROUND

Polynucleotides stimulate collagen formation and are used clinically to enhance elasticity. In this study, we investigated current practices and perceived effectiveness of polynucleotide injection treatment for enlarged facial pores among cosmetic physicians.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A survey was developed to investigate clinicians' use and effectiveness of polynucleotides in the treatment of enlarged facial pores. This survey was distributed to clinicians at the Korean Aesthetic Surgery & Laser Society Autumn Symposium.

RESULTS

A total of 407 physicians who used polynucleotides for enlarged facial pores were enrolled in the survey. Polynucleotides were used by 75.7%, 87.7%, and 72.2% of physicians for enlarged facial pores caused by excessive sebum production, reduced elasticity, and acne, respectively. Among those users, 81.4%, 83.8%, and 76.8% in those same categories, respectively, responded that polynucleotides were "very effective" or "effective." Furthermore, most clinicians combined polynucleotides with microneedle radiofrequency as energy-based devices and with botulinum toxin as injection therapy.

CONCLUSION

This study highlights the widespread use and perceived efficacy of polynucleotide injection among cosmetic physicians in the Republic of Korea for enlarged facial pores due to excessive sebum production, reduced elasticity, and acne. Positive feedback from practitioners supports the benefits of using polynucleotides in enlarged facial pore treatment.

Microbiological insights and dermatological applications of live biotherapeutic products

As our understanding of dermatological conditions advances, it becomes increasingly evident that traditional pharmaceutical interventions are not universally effective. The intricate balance of the skin microbiota plays a pivotal role in the development of various skin conditions, prompting a growing interest in probiotics, or live biotherapeutic products (LBPs), as potential remedies. Specifically, the topical application of LBPs to modulate bacterial populations on the skin has emerged as a promising approach to alleviate symptoms associated with common skin conditions. This review considers LBPs and their application in addressing a wide spectrum of dermatological conditions with particular emphasis on three key areas: acne, atopic dermatitis, and wound healing. Within this context, the critical role of strain selection is presented as a pivotal factor in effectively managing these dermatological concerns. Additionally, the review considers formulation challenges associated with probiotic viability and proposes a personalised approach to facilitate compatibility with the skin's unique microenvironment. This analysis offers valuable insights into the potential of LBPs in dermatological applications, underlining their promise in reshaping the landscape of dermatological treatments while acknowledging the hurdles that must be overcome to unlock their full potential.

Beneficial Effects of Multi-Micronutrient Supplementation with Collagen Peptides on Global Wrinkles, Skin Elasticity and Appearance in Healthy Female Subjects

INTRODUCTION

With ageing, collagen production slows down, leading to wrinkle appearance and loss of elasticity. Replenishing key structural molecules through oral supplementation is a promising strategy that complements the topical delivery of cosmetic products and creates a holistic skincare regimen. The present study assessed the effectiveness of a food supplement with collagen peptides, vitamins and minerals in improving the quality of the skin and general wellbeing of healthy women.

METHODS

This was an open-label study of 135 women aged between 45 and 65 years. A 3-month treatment phase followed a 4-week washout phase, with visits scheduled at baseline and after each month of treatment. Subjects received three tablets of Richelet Skin Renewal daily. The primary outcome was change from baseline to month 3 in global wrinkles score by expert grader analysis. Secondary outcomes included changes in skin elasticity and other skin attributes, product assessment via self-perception questionnaires and total antioxidant status.

RESULTS

A total of 116 subjects completed the study. The mean global wrinkles score indicated a statistically significant decrease from 5.9 at baseline to 5.0 at month 3 (p < 0.0001), with 83.6% of subjects showing an improvement; significant changes were reported at all intermediate visits. The increase in skin elasticity was also statistically significant (R2 score 0.74 at month 3; p < 0.0001). All subjects (100%) demonstrated significant improvements in skin texture, skin tone evenness, skin radiance and overall skin quality at the month 3 visit.

CONCLUSIONS

The study product achieved statistically significant, noticeable effects on global wrinkles, skin elasticity and a range of skin attributes after 3 months of use in healthy women. These results strengthen the evidence for supplementation of collagen peptides and other micronutrients as an effective component of anti-ageing skincare.

Atopic Dermatitis: Molecular Alterations between Lesional and Non-Lesional Skin Determined Noninvasively by In Vivo Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

Atopic dermatitis (AD)/atopic eczema is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease affecting nearly 14% of the adult population. An important pathogenetic pillar in AD is the disrupted skin barrier function (SBF). The atopic stratum corneum (SC) has been examined using several methods, including Raman microspectroscopy, yet so far, there is no depth-dependent analysis over the entire SC thickness. Therefore, we recruited 21 AD patients (9 female, 12 male) and compared the lesional (LAS) with non-lesional atopic skin (nLAS) in vivo with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Our results demonstrated decreased total intercellular lipid and carotenoid concentrations, as well as a shift towards decreased orthorhombic lateral lipid organisation in LAS. Further, we observed a lower concentration of natural moisturising factor (NMF) and a trend towards increased strongly bound and decreased weakly bound water in LAS. Finally, LAS showed an altered secondary and tertiary keratin structure, demonstrating a more folded keratin state than nLAS. The obtained results are discussed in comparison with healthy skin and yield detailed insights into the atopic SC structure. LAS clearly shows molecular alterations at certain SC depths compared with nLAS which imply a reduced SBF. A thorough understanding of these alterations provides useful information on the aetiology of AD and for the development/control of targeted topical therapies.

In search of the perfect tan: Chemical activity, biological effects, business considerations, and consumer implications of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanning products

As the desire and popularity of a tanned appearance continues, the social effects of UV-free tanning are becoming more important. Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) has seen extensive use as the main tanning agent in sunless tanners. The DHA-induced tan is a result of brown melanoidins formed by a non-enzymatic Maillard reaction between DHA and amino acid species found in the stratum corneum. DHA, thereby, provides a safer route to a tanned appearance compared with exposure to ultraviolet radiation. However, DHA is a highly reactive molecule, posing a multitude of challenges for potential product formulations. With their increased use, the safety considerations of topically applied DHA tanners have been investigated. Many different vehicles have been used for topical delivery of DHA, and they are becoming increasingly multifunctional. This review provides a holistic overview of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanning products.

Synchrotron-based infrared microspectroscopy of polymeric nanoparticles and skin: Unveiling molecular interactions to enhance permeation

The application of nanoparticles as permeation enhancers in skin drug delivery is a growing research field. However, the mechanisms of nanoparticles' interaction with the skin structure are still unknown. Fucoidan/chitosan nanoparticles have demonstrated several physicochemical and biological advantages, among which is the enhancement of skin permeation. This study aims to elucidate permeation enhancement mechanisms using synchrotron-based Fourier Transform Infrared Microspectroscopy (SR-FTIRM) combined with multivariate analysis and in vitro skin permeation assay. Given the molecular weight influence on chitosan's properties, the nanoparticles-skin interactions were evaluated with nanoparticles produced using low- and medium-molecular-weight chitosan. Chemical maps and spectral analysis revealed that fucoidan/chitosan nanoparticles induced changes in the lipids and protein regions. Inter-sample spectral differences were identified using principal component analysis. Low molecular weight fucoidan/ chitosan nanoparticles caused changes in the skin lipids' lateral packing and structure at the stratum corneum layer towards a less ordered state and higher fluidity, and no evidence was found on proteins structure. The opposite was revealed for medium molecular weight fucoidan/chitosan nanoparticles, which induced changes in the secondary structure of keratin and altered lipid structure to an ordered and dense conformation. In vitro permeation assays with Franz diffusion cells correlate with the observed changes in the skin lipid and protein structure with enhanced skin permeation of a hydrophilic molecule incorporated within the fucoidan/chitosan nanoparticles. The findings of this study unveil molecular changes in the skin structure induced by the nanoparticles only possible with the application of the powerful and precise SR-FTIRM technique. This knowledge allows the design of nanoparticles towards an internalization pathway determining their fate within the skin structure.

Potential cosmeceutical lamellar liquid crystals containing black longan (Dimocarpus longan Lour.) seed extract for MMP-1 and hyaluronidase inhibition

The aims of this study were to evaluate the biological activities of black Dimocarpus longan Lour. seed extracts and develop a lamellar liquid crystal (LLC). Different solvents, including petroleum ether, ethyl acetate, and 95% v/v ethanol, were used in the maceration of black D. longan seeds. The inhibitory activities on matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and hyaluronidase were evaluated. The irritating potency of D. longan seed extracts was determined using the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test. The extract with the strongest anti-ageing activities and no irritant impact was examined for its chemical contents using high-performance liquid chromatography and incorporated into the LLC. Various factors affecting the LLC formulations, including surfactant types and amounts, thickening agent types and amounts, and various oil types, were investigated. The results demonstrated that the ethyl acetate extract (EtOAc) was the most potent inhibitor of MMP-1 (IC₅₀ = 21.7 ± 5.4 µg/mL) and hyaluronidase (oleanolic acid equivalent = 0.44 ± 0.03 g per g extract). Interestingly, its MMP-1 inhibition was equivalent to that of oleanolic acid, corilagin, and gallic acid. Furthermore, its hyaluronidase inhibition was equivalent to that of gallic acid and ellagic acid. Gallic acid, which was the most abundant compound (15.6% ± 0.06% w/w) was suggested as the compound responsible for the biological activities of EtOAc extract. Considering its potential anti-skin ageing properties with no irritation of EtOAc extract, it was incorporated into the most suitable LLC, which was composed of 5% w/w Lexfeel® D5 oil, 0.5% w/w Carbopol® U21, 2% w/w Liquid Crystal Cream Maker, and 92.5% w/w DI water. The LLC containing EtOAc extract presented birefringence under a polarizing light microscope, indicating its crystallinity. The formulation had good stability after heating-cooling cycles in terms of external appearance, crystallinity, viscosity, and pH (5.5). As a result, it is recommended as a potential cosmeceutical formulation for anti-skin wrinkling. It is proposed that more research be conducted on the safety and efficacy of the treatment on human volunteers.

The link between atopic dermatitis and asthma- immunological imbalance and beyond

Atopic diseases are multifactorial chronic disturbances which may evolve one into another and have overlapping pathogenetic mechanisms. Atopic dermatitis is in most cases the first step towards the development of the atopic march and represents a major socio-economic burden in the industrialized countries. The treatment of atopic diseases is often long-lasting and in some cases with lower effectiveness than expected.

In order to prevent the development of the atopic march, the links between the atopic diseases have to be understood. The aim of this review is to present some major points outlining the link between atopic dermatitis and asthma, through a research in the medical literature from recent years.

Stratifying patient populations according to the clinical phenotype of their disease and according to specific measurable values (biomarkers) can help to establish the main etiopathogenetic mechanisms of the disease in these populations. This will add predictive value for the evolution of the disease, and will allow the use and research of more targeted therapy in order to stop this evolution and comorbidities.

Xeno-free workflow exhibits comparable efficiency and quality of keratinocytes isolated from human skin biopsies

INTRODUCTION

Regenerative solutions of the skin represent a hope for burn victims with extensive skin loss and chronic wound patients. The development of xeno-free workflow is crucial for clinical application in compliance with the directives of the European Medicines Agency. This study aimed at evaluating the outcome of the xeno-free isolation workflow of keratinocytes from human skin biopsy.

METHODS

Skin biopsies were obtained from volunteers. The epidermis was digested with TrypLE™ Select, which was deactivated by dilution or with trypsin, deactivated by media with fetal bovine serum. Freshly isolated cells were compared for total cell number, viability, activity of caspase 3, gene expression and the presence of the keratinocyte surface markers cytokeratin 14. The cells were cultured in xeno-free conditions for one week and characterized regarding the number and viability as well as the metalloproteinase secretion.

RESULTS

The number of obtained cells was similar in both workflows. The cell viability was less in the TrypLE group, with slight reduction of the cell surface marker cytokeratin 14. Caspase 3 activity was comparable as well as the gene expression of the apoptotic markers BAX, BCL2 and SLUG, as well as the keratinocyte markers cytokeratin 14, stratifin and filaggrin. Upon culture, the number of keratinocytes, their viability and secretion of matrix metalloproteinases 1 and 10 were equal in both groups.

CONCLUSION

This study reports the possibility of isolating functioning and viable keratinocytes through a xeno-free workflow for clinical application.

On the Development of a Cutaneous Flavonoid Delivery System: Advances and Limitations

Flavonoids are one of the vital classes of natural polyphenolic compounds abundantly found in plants. Due to their wide range of therapeutic properties, which include antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective, and depigmentation effects, flavonoids have been demonstrated to be promising agents in the treatment of several skin disorders. However, their lipophilic nature and poor water solubility invariably lead to limited oral bioavailability. In addition, they are rapidly degraded and metabolized in the human body, hindering their potential contribution to the prevention and treatment of many disorders. Thus, to overcome these challenges, several cutaneous delivery systems have been extensively studied. Topical drug delivery besides offering an alternative administration route also ensures a sustained release of the active compound at the desired site of action. Incorporation into lipid or polymer-based nanoparticles appears to be a highly effective approach for cutaneous delivery of flavonoids with good encapsulation potential and reduced toxicity. This review focuses on currently available formulations used to administer either topically or systemically different classes of flavonoids in the skin, highlighting their potential application as therapeutic and preventive agents.

Effects of ozone on stratum corneum lipid integrity and assembly

The stratum corneum (SC) acts as the main barrier of the skin against exogenous substances (e.g. air pollutants) and against the loss of endogenous substances such as water. The SC consists of keratin-rich dead cells surrounded by crystalline lamellar lipid regions. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs), and cholesterol (CHOL). Tropospheric ozone (O₃) is a potent oxidant compound that reacts instantly with biological molecules such as lipids and proteins. Although it has been reported that O₃ induces biological responses at the cellular level, to the best of our knowledge, there is no information related to the damages O₃ can cause at the level of the SC extracellular lipid matrix. The aim of our work was to investigate which SC lipid subclasses are prone to oxidation when exposed to O₃ and how the changes in chemical structures affect the lipid organization in a stratum corneum substitute (SCS) membrane. Ultimately the barrier properties of the SCS were examined. Our studies reveal that O₃ induces chemical modifications of the unsaturated bonds in CERs and CHOL. The appearance of carbonyl groups at the headgroup level and the removal of the linoleate moiety of omega acylceramides (CER EOS) impact the lamellar organization of the lipid assembly and to a lesser extent the lateral packing of the lipids. Unexpectedly, the modifications improved the barrier function of the SCS.

The diversity of shedder tests and a novel factor that affects DNA transfer

Since the first shedder test was formulated almost 20 years ago, a plethora of different test strategies has emerged. The amount of data generated so far is considerable. However, because of the limited reproducibility of its results, the reliability of the shedder concept is frequently questioned. This study provides a literature overview of applied shedder tests that capture the diversity of the concept. It is pointed out to what extent different classification criteria, workflows, and trace evaluation can impair the classification outcome. The robustness of shedder status was assessed by applying a promising approach established by Fonneløp et al. (Forensic Sci Int Genet 29:48-60, 21). Data provide similar results to those in recent studies but also ambiguous shedder classifications. The applied shedder test was adapted based on our own as well as the reviewed data. With novel classification parameters, promising results were achieved. This study reveals uncertainties and inconsistencies of the shedder concept. Recommendations for harmonization and transparency are proposed. Implementation of the recommendations may result in an increased impact on casework and transfer studies, including activity-level assessments. Furthermore, this study shows that moisturizers affect participants' shedder status as well as DNA transfer. The impact appears to remain relevant even 60 min post ointment application but depends greatly on the type of moisturizer applied.

Bench approaches to study the detrimental cutaneous impact of tropospheric ozone

Being exposed to ground-level ozone (O₃), as it is often the case in polluted cities, is known to have a detrimental impact on skin. O₃ induces antioxidant depletion and lipid peroxidation in the upper skin layers and this effect has repercussions on deeper cellular layers, triggering a cascade of cellular stress and inflammatory responses. Repetitive exposure to high levels of O₃ may lead to chronic damages of the cutaneous tissue, cause premature skin aging and aggravate skin diseases such as contact dermatitis and urticaria. This review paper debates about the most relevant experimental approaches that must be considered to gather deeper insights about the complex biological processes that are activated when the skin is exposed to O₃. Having a better understanding of O₃ effects on skin barrier properties and stress responses could help the whole dermato-cosmetic industry to design innovative protective solutions and develop specific cosmetic regime to protect the skin of every citizen, especially those living in areas where exposure to high levels of O₃ is of concern to human health.

Human skin models: From healthy to disease-mimetic systems; characteristics and applications

Skin drug delivery is an emerging route in drug development, leading to an urgent need to understand the behaviour of active pharmaceutical ingredients within the skin. Given, As one of the body's first natural defences, the barrier properties of skin provide an obstacle to the successful outcome of any skin drug therapy. To elucidate the mechanisms underlying this barrier, reductionist strategies have designed several models with different levels of complexity, using non-biological and biological components. Besides the detail of information and resemblance to human skin in vivo, offered by each in vitro model, the technical and economic efforts involved must also be considered when selecting the most suitable model. This review provides an outline of the commonly used skin models, including healthy and diseased conditions, in-house developed and commercialized models, their advantages and limitations, and an overview of the new trends in skin-engineered models.

Skin Barrier Abnormalities and Immune Dysfunction in Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common and relapsing skin disease that is characterized by skin barrier dysfunction, inflammation, and chronic pruritus. While AD was previously thought to occur primarily in children, increasing evidence suggests that AD is more common in adults than previously assumed. Accumulating evidence from experimental, genetic, and clinical studies indicates that AD expression is a precondition for the later development of other atopic diseases, such as asthma, food allergies, and allergic rhinitis. Although the exact mechanisms of the disease pathogenesis remain unclear, it is evident that both cutaneous barrier dysfunction and immune dysregulation are critical etiologies of AD pathology. This review explores recent findings on AD and the possible underlying mechanisms involved in its pathogenesis, which is characterized by dysregulation of immunological and skin barrier integrity and function, supporting the idea that AD is a systemic disease. These findings provide further insights for therapeutic developments aiming to repair the skin barrier and decrease inflammation.

Development of a novel human stratum corneum model, as a tool in the optimization of drug formulations

Transdermal delivery represents a very attractive administration route that provides various advantages over other methods of administration, including enhanced patient compliance via non-invasive, painless and simple application and reduced side effects. Thereby, the research on suitable drugs for this route continues to increase. However, most of drug candidates face the challenges of low drug permeability across the skin's biologically active barrier - the stratum corneum (SC). In this context, a low cost, simple screening tool to evaluate penetration of drug candidates in a human SC barrier model was developed. The in vitro model is based on a modified phospholipid vesicle-based permeation assay (PVPA) with a lipid composition close to human SC layer. The new SC PVPA model can be stored up to 2 weeks at -20 °C, withstand a pH range from 2.0 to 8.0 and the presence of co-solvents (DMSO, oleic acid and cremophor®) without losing their integrity. The human mimicking SC PVPA model was able to detect calcein permeability differences when different drugs, applied in the therapy of skin-related diseases, were present. The obtained data correlated well with the well accepted pig ear model, which highlights the potential of this new human SC model.

Topical urea in skincare: A review

Alterations in barrier function are associated with a number of skin diseases, including xerosis, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis. Urea, a component of the natural moisturizing factor of the skin, plays an important role in the preservation of skin hydration and integrity. Several studies have investigated the effects of urea in the clinical setting. Here, we summarize the available clinical evidence regarding the effects of urea in the maintenance of healthy skin and management of skin disorders. At lower doses (≤10%), urea-containing topical formulations act as a skin moisturizer, while at higher concentrations (>10% urea), urea-based preparations exert a keratolytic action. Urea is also useful in combination therapies with anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal drugs, due to its activity as a penetration enhancer.

Topical drug therapeutics for neuropathic pain

INTRODUCTION

Neuropathic pain (NP) is a particularly severe and intractable chronic condition that is not well treated by commonly recommended systemic pharmacological therapies, partly due to dose-limiting side effects or adverse events. The use of topical therapeutics for NP is growing and benefits from the reduced potential for adverse effects, as well as the ability to directly target peripheral pathological processes.

AREAS COVERED

The current review defines and describes the limitations of various commonly prescribed systemic pharmacological therapies for NP. It also provides a justification for increased research aimed at developing topical therapeutics for NP, particularly localized and peripheral NP. The review discusses the various classes of topical treatments used for NP, including agents that: block sensory inputs; activate inhibitory systems; provide mechanism-based therapeutics; are used in mucosal tissues; and include combinations that produce multimodal therapeutic effects.

EXPERT OPINION

There are arguments that the current topical therapeutics for NP rely too heavily on the use of local anesthetics and capsaicinoids, and more research is certainly needed on topical therapies that are multimodal and/or are targeted at the peripheral sources of pathology. The potential for novel topical therapeutics may be enhanced by further research on topical co-drugs, drug-drug salts, co-crystals and hydrates, and ionic liquids.

Resveratrol: from diet to topical usage

The stilbene derivative resveratrol (3,5,4'-trihydroxy-stilbene; RESV) has become the subject of interest of many researchers and the pharmaceutical industries due to its well-acclaimed beneficial biological activities. Although earlier research tended to focus on the effects of RESV on cardiovascular disorders, many other studies have described the beneficial effects of RESV in the areas of cancer chemoprevention and inflammation and interest of researchers on this compound is still increasing. It is now well accepted that the effect of RESV is not just due to its so called "antioxidant" activity but mainly (if not only) because of the ability of this compound to trigger cell signaling pathways and gene expression involved in cellular defense systems. Many "in vitro" studies on RESV did not take into account that although its oral absorption is about 75% it undergoes rapid metabolism and the concentration in the blood stream is almost undetectable. For this reason interest in the topical usage of RESV by cosmeceutical skin care brands has exponentially increased in the last decade reporting in general very promising results on its beneficial effect in protecting the skin from outdoor insults, but there is still some controversy on its topical usage mainly surrounding the concentration used. Therefore, more basic research on the topical application of RESV should be performed to better understand the way it prevents cutaneous damage and whether it could be recommended as a preventive skin aging agent for all skin insults.

ATR-IR study of skin components: Lipids, proteins and water. Part I: Temperature effect

In this work we report the studies of the effect of temperature on skin components, such as lipids, proteins and water. Modifications of lipids structure induced by increasing temperature (from 20 to 90°C) have been studied using ATR-IR (Attenuated Total Reflectance Infrared) spectroscopy, which is a powerful tool for characterization of the molecular structure and properties of tissues, such as skin. Due to the small depth of penetration (0.6-5.6μm), ATR-IR spectroscopy probes only the outermost layer of the skin, i.e. the stratum corneum (SC). The assignment of main spectral features of skin components allows for the determination of phase transitions from the temperature dependencies of band intensities [e.g. ν_as(CH₂) and ν_s(CH₂)]. The phase transitions were determined by using two methods: the first one was based on the first derivative of the Boltzmann function and the second one employed tangent lines of sigmoidal, aforementioned dependencies. The phase transitions in lipids were correlated with modifications of the structure of water and proteins.

Interaction of fengycin with stratum corneum mimicking model membranes: a calorimetry study

Based on its outstanding antifungal properties, it is reasonable to believe that fengycin might be efficient to topically treat localized dermatomycoses. Since most of the fungi species involved in the formation of those mycotic skin diseases colonize primarily the stratum corneum (SC), studying the interaction between fengycin and SC-mimicking lipid membranes is a primary step to determine the potential of fengycin to overcome the physical barrier of the skin. In this respect, multilamellar lipid vesicles (MLVs), with a lipid composition mimicking that of the SC, were prepared and characterized by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The critical micelle concentration (CMC) of fengycin was also assessed under skin conditions and found to be 1.2±0.1μM. The molecular interactions of fengycin with SC-mimicking MLVs were investigated by both DSC and isothermal titration calorimetry (ITC). Results showed that the interactions were considerably affected by changes in lipid phase behaviour. At 40°C and below, fengycin induced exothermic changes in the lipid structures suggesting that less-ordered lipid domains became more-ordered in presence of fengycin. At 60°C, clearly endothermic interaction enthalpies were observed, which could arise from the "melting" of remaining solid domains enriched in high melting lipids that without fengycin melt at higher temperatures.

Dermal Stability and In Vitro Skin Permeation of Collagen Pentapeptides (KTTKS and palmitoyl-KTTKS)

Collagen pentapeptide (Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, KTTKS) and its palmitoylated derivative (pal-KTTKS) have received a great deal of attention as cosmeceutical ingredients for their anti-wrinkle effects. The objective of this study was to evaluate stability and permeability of KTTKS and pal-KTTKS in hairless mouse skin. In this study, a liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometric method was developed for the quantification of pal-KTTKS, and used for stability and permeability studies. Stability studies were performed using skin extracts and homogenates. Both KTTKS and pal-KTTKS were rapidly degraded, but pal-KTTKS was more stable than KTTKS. When protease inhibitors were added, the stability of both compounds (KTTKS and pal-KTTKS) improved significantly. In the skin permeation study, neither KTTKS nor pal-KTTKS was detected in the receptor solution, which indicates that neither compound could permeate through the full-thickness hairless mouse skin in the experimental conditions of this study. While KTTKS was not detected in any of the skin layers (the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis), pal-KTTKS was observed in all skin layers: 4.2 ± 0.7 μg/cm(2) in the stratum corneum, 2.8 ± 0.5 μg/cm(2) in the epidermis, and 0.3 ± 0.1 μg/cm(2) in the dermis. In conclusion, this study indicated that pal-KTTKS had greater stability and permeability than that of un-modified KTTKS, and may be a useful anti-wrinkle and anti-aging cosmeceutical agent.

Penetration and haptenation of p-phenylenediamine

Although p-phenylenediamine (PPD) has been recognized as an extreme sensitizer for many years, the exact mechanism of sensitization has not been elucidated yet. Penetration and the ability to bind to proteins are the first two hurdles that an allergen has to overcome to be able to sensitize. This review is an overview of studies regarding PPD penetration through skin (analogues) and studies on the amino acids that are targeted by PPD. To complete this review, the auto-oxidation and N-acetylation steps involved in PPD metabolism are described. In summary, under normal hair dyeing exposure conditions, <1% of the applied PPD dose penetrates the skin. The majority (>80%) of PPD that penetrates will be converted into the detoxification products monoacetyl-PPD and diacetyl-PPD by the N-acetyltransferase enzymes. The small amount of PPD that does not become N-acetylated is susceptible to auto-oxidation reactions, yielding protein-reactive PPD derivatives. These derivatives may bind to specific amino acids, and some of the formed adducts might be the complexes responsible for sensitization. However, true in vivo evidence is lacking, and further research to unravel the definite mechanism of sensitization is needed.

A spontaneous Fatp4/Scl27a4 splice site mutation in a new murine model for congenital ichthyosis

Congenital ichthyoses are life-threatening conditions in humans. We describe here the identification and molecular characterization of a novel recessive mutation in mice that results in newborn lethality with severe congenital lamellar ichthyosis. Mutant newborns have a taut, shiny, non-expandable epidermis that resembles cornified manifestations of autosomal-recessive congenital ichthyosis in humans. The skin is stretched so tightly that the newborn mice are immobilized. The genetic defect was mapped to a region near the proximal end of chromosome 2 by SNP analysis, suggesting Fatp4/Slc27a4 as a candidate gene. FATP4 mutations in humans cause ichthyosis prematurity syndrome (IPS), and mutations of Fatp4 in mice have previously been found to cause a phenotype that resembles human congenital ichthyoses. Characterization of the Fatp4 cDNA revealed a fusion of exon 8 to exon 10, with deletion of exon 9. Genomic sequencing identified an A to T mutation in the splice donor sequence at the 3'-end of exon 9. Loss of exon 9 results in a frame shift mutation upstream from the conserved very long-chain acyl-CoA synthase (VLACS) domain. Histological studies revealed that the mutant mice have defects in keratinocyte differentiation, along with hyperproliferation of the stratum basale of the epidermis, a hyperkeratotic stratum corneum, and reduced numbers of secondary hair follicles. Since Fatp4 protein is present primarily at the stratum granulosum and the stratum spinosum, the hyperproliferation and the alterations in hair follicle induction suggest that very long chain fatty acids, in addition to being required for normal cornification, may influence signals from the stratum corneum to the basal cells that help to orchestrate normal skin differentiation.

Topically applied KTTKS: a review

Skin ageing is an irreversible process that is caused by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The possibility of arresting or delaying skin ageing represents a large research area and has a big potential in the cosmetics sector. Recently, the polypeptide lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (KTTKS) has attracted a lot of attention and it features in numerous up-market cosmetic products where it has become erroneously associated with the term 'pentapeptide'. In this study, we review in detail KTTKS and its major derivatives, in terms of the limited information in the literature and an appraisal of its physicochemical and theoretical skin permeation properties. There appears to be a sound in vitro basis for its action on fibroblasts due to its stimulatory effect on extracellular matrix synthesis, where the stimulatory effect of KTTKS is specific to collagen types I and III and fibronectin expression. However, there is a surprising absence of in vitro skin penetration data in the literature, and there are relatively few clinical studies using these materials.

Dermatitis and aging-related barrier dysfunction in transgenic mice overexpressing an epidermal-targeted claudin 6 tail deletion mutant

The barrier function of the skin protects the mammalian body against infection, dehydration, UV irradiation and temperature fluctuation. Barrier function is reduced with the skin's intrinsic aging process, however the molecular mechanisms involved are unknown. We previously demonstrated that Claudin (Cldn)-containing tight junctions (TJs) are essential in the development of the epidermis and that transgenic mice overexpressing Cldn6 in the suprabasal layers of the epidermis undergo a perturbed terminal differentiation program characterized in part by reduced barrier function. To dissect further the mechanisms by which Cldn6 acts during epithelial differentiation, we overexpressed a Cldn6 cytoplasmic tail deletion mutant in the suprabasal compartment of the transgenic mouse epidermis. Although there were no gross phenotypic abnormalities at birth, subtle epidermal anomalies were present that disappeared by one month of age, indicative of a robust injury response. However, with aging, epidermal changes with eventual chronic dermatitis appeared with a concomitant barrier dysfunction manifested in increased trans-epidermal water loss. Immunohistochemical analysis revealed aberrant suprabasal Cldn localization with marked down-regulation of Cldn1. Both the proliferative and terminal differentiation compartments were perturbed as evidenced by mislocalization of multiple epidermal markers. These results suggest that the normally robust injury response mechanism of the epidermis is lost in the aging Involucrin-Cldn6-CΔ196 transgenic epidermis, and provide a model for evaluation of aging-related skin changes.

Effect of cholesterol and fatty acids on the molecular interactions of fengycin with Stratum corneum mimicking lipid monolayers

The combination of atomic force microscopy (AFM) and the Langmuir trough technique was used in this work to investigate the molecular interactions of fengycin with lipid monolayers constituted of the major lipid classes found in human stratum corneum (SC). AFM imaging o f spread SC lipids/fengycin monolayers showed that fengycin preferentially partitions into cholesterol-rich phases surrounding 2D domains mainly constituted of ceramide and fatty acid molecules. Penetration experiments of fengycin from the subphase into SC-mimicking monolayers clearly indicated that the lipopeptide insertion at the lipid interface is enhanced in the presence of cholesterol. AFM analysis of mixed SC lipids/fengycin monolayers obtained after lipopeptide penetration revealed that cholesterol strongly interacts with fengycin and undergoes specific molecular interactions with more disordered, loosely packed ceramide molecules. These results highlight the capacity of fengycin to interact with the lipid constituents of the extracellular matrix of SC and, in particular, with cholesterol.