In vitro and in vivo studies with tetra-hydro-jasmonic acid (LR2412) reveal its potential to correct signs of skin ageing

Topical tretinoin for treating photoaging: A systematic review of randomized controlled trials

Aging, an inevitable and continuous process in one's lifetime, has all along been a focus of interest, especially for women, yet photoaging treatment to slow the process remains challenging. Recent studies have demonstrated the potency of topical tretinoin in the treatment of photoaging. Tretinoin, a metabolite of retinoids, shows prominent efficacy to regulate proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells and induce new collagen formation.

Objective

This review aims to study the current evidence on topical tretinoin for photoaging treatment.

Methods

A systematic search of the literature was performed from Medline, Cochrane Central, Embase, and PubMed databases for published articles in the past 20 years. Only randomized controlled trials investigating tretinoin for photoaging treatment were included in our review.

Results

A total of 180 studies were initially examined, of which 7 randomized controlled trials were included in this review. Four studies included only women as their participants, while the rest demonstrated women as their majority subjects. All studies that indicated topical tretinoin were safe and well tolerated in all patients. Topical tretinoin dosage varied from 0.025% to 5% while duration of treatment ranged from 3 months up to 24 months. With regard to efficacy, all studies consistently reported that topical tretinoin was efficacious in improving clinical appearance of photoaging in terms of wrinkling, mottled hyperpigmentation, sallowness, and lentigines as early as 1 month and lasted after 24 months.

Limitations

Different tretinoin formulas used, different outcome parameters, and limited recent studies on topical tretinoin cause lack of uniformity in the evidences.

Conclusion

Topical tretinoin is a safe and effective therapeutic modality for long-term treatment of photoaging. Further research is required to compare dose-ranging topical tretinoin to other agents to provide the best treatment strategy for photoaged skin.

Gibberellic Acid Initiates ER Stress and Activation of Differentiation in Cultured Human Immortalized Keratinocytes HaCaT and Epidermoid Carcinoma Cells A431

Diterpenoid plant hormone gibberellic acid (GA) plays an important role in regulation of plant growth and development and is commonly used in agriculture for activation of plant growth and food production. It is known that many plant-derived compounds have miscellaneous biological effects on animals and humans, influencing specific cellular functions and metabolic pathways. However, the effect of GA on animal and human cells remains controversial. We investigated the effect of GA on cultured human cell lines of epidermoid origin-immortalized non-tumorigenic keratinocytes HaCaT and carcinoma A431 cells. We found that at a non-toxic dose, GA upregulated the expression of genes associated with the ER stress response-CHOP, sXBP1, GRP87 in both cell lines, and ATF4 predominantly in A431 cells. We also showed that GA was more effective in upregulating the production of ER stress marker GRP78, autophagy marker LC3B-II, and differentiation markers involucrin and filaggrin in A431 cells than in HaCaT. We conclude that GA induces mild ER stress in both cell lines, followed by the activation of differentiation via upregulation of autophagy. However, in comparison with immortalized keratinocytes HaCaT, GA is more effective in inducing differentiation of carcinoma A431 cells, probably due to the inherently lower differentiation status of A431 cells. The activation of differentiation in poorly differentiated and highly malignant A431 cells by GA may lower the level of malignancy of these cells and decrease their tumorigenic potential.

Organoids: An Emerging Tool to Study Aging Signature across Human Tissues. Modeling Aging with Patient-Derived Organoids

The biology of aging is focused on the identification of novel pathways that regulate the underlying processes of aging to develop interventions aimed at delaying the onset and progression of chronic diseases to extend lifespan. However, the research on the aging field has been conducted mainly in animal models, yeast, Caenorhabditis elegans, and cell cultures. Thus, it is unclear to what extent this knowledge is transferable to humans since they might not reflect the complexity of aging in people. An organoid culture is an in vitro 3D cell-culture technology that reproduces the physiological and cellular composition of the tissues and/or organs. This technology is being used in the cancer field to predict the response of a patient-derived tumor to a certain drug or treatment serving as patient stratification and drug-guidance approaches. Modeling aging with patient-derived organoids has a tremendous potential as a preclinical model tool to discover new biomarkers of aging, to predict adverse outcomes during aging, and to design personalized approaches for the prevention and treatment of aging-related diseases and geriatric syndromes. This could represent a novel approach to study chronological and/or biological aging, paving the way to personalized interventions targeting the biology of aging.

Glycosaminoglycans: Sweet as Sugar Targets for Topical Skin Anti-Aging

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are long, linear polysaccharides comprised of repeating disaccharide units with pleiotropic biological functions, with the non-sulfated GAG hyaluronic acid (HA), and sulfated GAGs dermatan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, heparan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and to a lesser extent heparin all being expressed in skin. Their ability to regulate keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, inflammatory processes and extracellular matrix composition and quality demonstrates their critical role in regulating skin physiology. Similarly, the water-binding properties of GAGs and structural qualities, particularly for HA, are crucial for maintaining proper skin form and hydration. The biological importance of GAGs, as well as extensive evidence that their properties and functions are altered in both chronological and extrinsic skin aging, makes them highly promising targets to improve cosmetic skin quality. Within the present review, we examine the cutaneous biological activity of GAGs alongside the protein complexes they form called proteoglycans and summarize the age-related changes of these molecules in skin. We also examine current topical interventional approaches to modulate GAGs for improved skin quality such as direct exogenous administration of GAGs, with a particular interest in strategies targeted at potentiating GAG levels in skin through either attenuating GAG degradation or increasing GAG production.

Jasmonate Compounds and Their Derivatives in the Regulation of the Neoplastic Processes

Cancer is a serious problem in modern medicine, mainly due to the insufficient effectiveness of currently available therapies. There is a particular interest in compounds of natural origin, which can be used in the prophylaxis, as well as in the treatment and support of cancer treatment. One such compound is jasmonic acid (3-oxo-2-(pent-2'-enyl)cyclopentane acetic acid; isolated active form: trans-(-)-(3R,7R)- and cis-(+)-(3R,7S)-jasmonic acid) and its derivatives, which, due to their wide range of biological activities, are also proposed as potential therapeutic agents. Therefore, a review of literature data on the biological activity of jasmonates was prepared, with particular emphasis on the mechanisms of jasmonate action in neoplastic diseases. The anti-tumor activity of jasmonate compounds is based on altered cellular ATP levels; induction of re-differentiation through the action of Mitogen Activated Protein Kinases (MAPKs); the induction of the apoptosis by reactive oxygen species. Jasmonates can be used in anti-cancer therapy in combination with other known drugs, such as cisplatin, paclitaxel or doxorubicin, showing a synergistic effect. The structure-activity relationship of novel jasmonate derivatives with anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects is also shown.

Bioengineered Skin Intended as In Vitro Model for Pharmacosmetics, Skin Disease Study and Environmental Skin Impact Analysis

This review aims to be an update of Bioengineered Artificial Skin Substitutes (BASS) applications. At the first moment, they were created as an attempt to replace native skin grafts transplantation. Nowadays, these in vitro models have been increasing and widening their application areas, becoming important tools for research. This study is focus on the ability to design in vitro BASS which have been demonstrated to be appropriate to develop new products in the cosmetic and pharmacology industry. Allowing to go deeper into the skin disease research, and to analyze the effects provoked by environmental stressful agents. The importance of BASS to replace animal experimentation is also highlighted. Furthermore, the BASS validation parameters approved by the OECD (Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development) are also analyzed. This report presents an overview of the skin models applicable to skin research along with their design methods. Finally, the potential and limitations of the currently available BASS to supply the demands for disease modeling and pharmaceutical screening are discussed.

Agarose/κ-carrageenan-based hydrogel film enriched with natural plant extracts for the treatment of cutaneous wounds

Hydrogels for complex and chronic wound dressings must be conformable, absorb and retain wound exudates and maintain hydration. They can incorporate and release bioactive molecules that can accelerate the healing process. Wound dressings have to be in contact with the wound and epidermis, even for long periods, without causing adverse effects. Hydrogel dressing formulations based on biopolymers derived from terrestrial or marine flora can be relatively inexpensive and well tolerated. In the present article hydrogel films composed by agarose (1.0 wt%), κ-carrageenan at three different concentrations (0.5, 1.0 and 1.5 wt%) and glycerol (3.0 wt%) were prepared without recourse to crosslinking agents, and characterized for their mechanical properties, morphology, swelling and erosion behavior. The films resulted highly elastic and able to absorb and retain large amounts of fluids without losing their integrity. One of the films was loaded with the aqueous extract from Cryphaea heteromalla (Hedw.) D. Mohr for its antioxidant properties. Absence of cytotoxicity and ability to reduce the oxidative stress were demonstrated on NIH-3T3 fibroblast cell cultures. These results encourage further biological evaluations to assess their impact on the healing process.

Tissue engineering to better understand senescence: Organotypics come of age

The recent advent of 'organs in a dish' has revolutionised the research landscape. These 3D culture systems have paved the way for translational, post genomics research by enabling scientists to model diseases in the laboratory, grow patient-derived organoids, and unite this technology with other cutting-edge methodologies such as drug discovery. Fields such as dermatology and neuroscience have revolutionised the development of robust 3D models, which faithfully recapitulate native physiology in vivo to provide important functional and mechanistic insights. These models have underpinned a rapid growth in the number of organs and myriad of human diseases that can be modelled in 3D, which currently includes breast, cerebral cortex, heart, intestine, kidney, liver, lung, neural tube, pancreas, prostate, skin and stomach, as well as patient derived tumours. However, so far, they have not yet been employed extensively in the study of fundamental cellular programmes such as senescence. Thus, tissue engineering and 3D culture offer an exciting opportunity to further understand the bright and dark sides of senescence in a more complex and physiologically relevant environment. Below, we will discuss previous approaches to investigating senescence and ageing using organotypic models, and some potential opportunities for future research.

Characterization of a New Reconstructed Full Thickness Skin Model, T-Skin™, and its Application for Investigations of Anti-Aging Compounds

BACKGROUND

We have characterized a new reconstructed full-thickness skin model, T-Skin™, compared to normal human skin (NHS) and evaluated its use in testing anti-aging compounds.

METHODS

The structure and layer-specific markers were compared with NHS using histological and immunohistological staining. In anti-aging experiments, T-SkinTM was exposed to retinol (10 µM) or vitamin C (200 µM) for 5 days, followed by immunohistological staining evaluation.

RESULTS

T-Skin™ exhibits a well stratified, differentiated and self-renewing epidermis with a dermal compartment of functional fibroblasts. Epidermal (cytokeratin 10, transglutaminase 1), dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ) (laminin 5, collagen-IV, collagen VII) and dermally-located (fibrillin 1, procollagen I) biomarkers were similar to those in NHS. Treatment of T-Skin™ with retinol decreased the expression of differentiation markers, cytokeratin 10 and transglutaminase 1 and increased the proliferation marker, Ki67, in epidermis basal-layer cells. Vitamin C increased the expression of DEJ components, collagen IV and VII and dermal procollagen 1.

CONCLUSIONS

T-Skin™ exhibits structural and biomarker location characteristics similar to NHS. Responses of T-Skin™ to retinol and vitamin C treatment were consistent with those of their known anti-aging effects. T-Skin™ is a promising model to investigate responses of epidermal, DEJ and dermal regions to new skin anti-ageing compounds.

Rapid discovery and global characterization of multiple components in corn silk using a multivariate data processing approach based on UHPLC coupled with electrospray ionization/quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry

Corn silk is an important traditional Chinese medicine which has been widely used as diuretic, antilithiasic, uricosuric, antiseptic, etc. for thousands of years. However, it is a pity that the chemical ingredients in corn silk, especially the constituents absorbed into blood, are unclear up to now. The aim of our study was to investigate the multiple components of corn silk in vitro and in vivo. In this present study, a sensitive and rapid method using ultra high performance liquid chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization/quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry and a multivariate data processing approach was established to detect the constituents of corn silk in vitro and in vivo. Consequently, total 41 ingredients in vitro and 19 of them absorbed into blood including luteolin, various C-glycosyl flavones, jasmonic acid, abscisic acid, gibberellin A, etc. were tentatively characterized in sequence. Furthermore, of particular importance, a kind of stable compound named C-glycosyl flavones is a great discovery in vivo, which can point the further pharmacological study target in future. In a word, this is the first serum pharmacochemistry study of corn silk, which played a critical role in exploring the pharmacological and effective data for further research.

A conjugate of jasmonic acid and tetrapeptide Tyr-Tyr-Lys-Ser-NH2 as a potential ingredient for skin care products – synthesis and characterization

A conjugate of jasmonic acid and a tetrapeptide was synthesized and it might be used as a promising active ingredient in topical applications.

3D In vitro model of the re-epithelialization phase in the wound-healing process

Keratinocytes of the basal layer function are to maintain tissue homoeostasis and to fulfil skin repair in response to an external aggression. In wound-healing, during re-epithelialization phase, epithelial precursor cells gradually migrate from the edges of the wound. The epidermal reconstruction model called standard model allows the vertical skin regeneration process (proliferation/differentiation) to being investigated, and keratinocyte function in preserving skin homoeostasis to being assessed. Here, we developed and characterized a 3D migration model, which introduces a step of keratinocytes migration such as the one observed in the phase of re-epithelialization in wound-healing process. We validated the added value and the discriminative potential of this model by demonstrating pro-epithelializing effects of compounds. This new model allows the role of keratinocytes in different biomechanical and environmental requests to being better understood, and brings a new tool for compound screening and the study of mechanisms involved in skin regeneration.

In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness

OBJECTIVE

Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding Cmap analysis. We found that A-A-A increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal matrix metalloprotease (MMP) expression and relieved fibroblast stiffness through reduction of the fibroblast stiffness marker F-actin. Dermal absorption studies showed successful delivery to both the epidermal and dermal regions, and in-use trial demonstrated that 1% A-A-A was well tolerated. In this study, the aim was to investigate whether A-A-A could stimulate the synthesis of extracellular matrix supporting proteins in vivo and thereby improving the viscoelastic properties of human skin by conducting a dual histological and biophysical clinical study.

METHOD

Two separate double-blind vehicle-controlled in vivo studies were conducted using a 1% A-A-A containing oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion. In the histological study, 16 female volunteers (>55 years of age) exhibiting photodamaged skin on their forearm were included, investigating the effect of a 12-day treatment of A-A-A on collagen IV (COLIV) and fibrillin-1. In a subsequent pilot study, 0.1% retinol was used for comparison to A-A-A (1%). The biomechanical properties of the skin were assessed in a panel of 16 women (>45 years of age) using the standard Cutometer MPA580 after topical application of the test products for 28 days. The use of multiple suction enabled the assessment of F4, an area parameter specifically representing skin firmness.

RESULTS

Twelve-day topical application of 1% A-A-A significantly increased COLIV and fibrillin with 13% and 6%, respectively, compared to vehicle. 1% A-A-A and 0.1% retinol were found to significantly reduce F4 after 28 days of treatment by 15.8% and 14.7%, respectively, in the pilot Cutometer study. No significant difference was found between retinol and A-A-A. However, only A-A-A exhibited a significant effect vs. vehicle on skin firmness which indicated the incremental benefit of A-A-A as a skin-firming active ingredient.

CONCLUSION

In this study, we showed the in vivo efficacy of 1% A-A-A both on a protein level (fibrillin and collagen IV) and on a clinical end point, specifically skin firmness, providing proof that, acetyl aspartic acid has a strong potential as an anti-ageing 'cosmeceutical' ingredient answering the needs of our key consumer base.

The conjugate of jasmonic acid and tetrapeptide as a novel promising biologically active compound

The newly designed derivative of jasmonic acid, JA–YPFF–NH₂, is believed to have a promising pharmacological effect on the skin.

Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proof

BACKGROUND

The megatrend of population ageing is leading to a growing demand for "anti-ageing" treatments, especially to prevent or treat skin ageing. Facing an increasing offer, consumers are choosing more and more skin care products supported by a scientific rationale, active ingredients and clinical proof of efficacy.

OBJECTIVE

Considering consumer expectations, this research led to the discovery of acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A), a novel active ingredient to improve sagging skin and loss of skin firmness.

RESULTS

This supplement is featuring seven manuscripts aiming at presenting the research and investigations from consumer insights, discovery of A-A-A, its in vitro activity confirmation, safety assessment, formulation and its dermal absorption to the clinical proof of efficacy, investigated through two pilots' double bind randomized and placebo controlled studies on photo-aged skin.

CONCLUSION

This extensive research enabled us to discover A-A-A, as an active ingredient with potential to repair sign of skin ageing and supported by clinical proof of efficacy. This active ingredient will be soon launched in a commercial innovative skin care range, delivering desirable anti-wrinkle and skin lifting benefits.

Quantitative 3D molecular cutaneous absorption in human skin using label free nonlinear microscopy

Understanding the penetration mechanisms of drugs into human skin is a key issue in pharmaceutical and cosmetics research. To date, the techniques available for percutaneous penetration of compounds fail to provide a quantitative 3D map of molecular concentration distribution in complex tissues as the detected microscopy images are an intricate combination of concentration distribution and laser beam attenuation upon deep penetration. Here we introduce and validate a novel framework for imaging and reconstructing molecular concentration within the depth of artificial and human skin samples. Our approach combines the use of deuterated molecular compounds together with coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering spectroscopy and microscopy that permits targeted molecules to be unambiguously discriminated within skin layers. We demonstrate both intercellular and transcellular pathways for different active compounds, together with in-depth concentration profiles reflecting the detailed skin barrier architecture. This method provides an enabling platform for establishing functional activity of topically applied products.