The efficacy study of the combination of tripeptide-10-citrulline and acetyl hexapeptide-3. A prospective, randomized controlled study

Current Approaches in Cosmeceuticals: Peptides, Biotics and Marine Biopolymers

Today's consumer perception and expectations of personal care have gone beyond merely cleansing, moisturizing, and makeup products, focusing more on the reduction or elimination of signs of aging. Cosmeceuticals, developed to create a more youthful appearance, commonly contain substances with therapeutic and physiological effects. The development of cosmeceutical products containing peptides, biotic ingredients, and marine-based compounds has become a highly popular strategy to enhance anti-aging effects and better address consumer demands. Peptides are frequently used in anti-aging products due to their effects on enhancing fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis, contributing to the skin's barrier function, and reducing skin pigmentation. Meanwhile, biotic components are extensively evaluated for their potential to improve barrier function by maintaining the balance of the skin microflora. On the other hand, the increasing interest of cosmetic consumers in natural and eco-friendly products, along with the rich biodiversity in the oceans and seas, has made marine-derived substances highly significant for the cosmetic industry. Marine polysaccharides are particularly valuable as biopolymers, offering useful properties for gel formation in cosmetic formulations. This review discusses scientific studies and commercially available products using peptides, biotic and marine-based compounds in cosmetic formulations, their cosmetic and cosmeceutical benefits, and the challenges in the formulation design of these products.

Peptides: Emerging Candidates for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Senescence: A Review

One class of cosmetic compounds that have raised interest of many experts is peptides. The search for ingredients with good biocompatibility and bioactivity has led to the use of peptides in cosmetic products. Peptides are novel active ingredients that improve collagen synthesis, enhance skin cell proliferation, or decrease inflammation. Based on their mechanism of action, they can be classified into signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, and enzyme inhibitor peptides. This review focuses on the main types of peptides and their application in the cosmetic field, underlining their main limitations. One of the most significant drawbacks of cosmetic peptides is their poor permeability through membranes, which limits their delivery and effectiveness. As a result, this review follows the methods used for improving permeability through the stratum corneum. Increasing peptide bioavailability and stability for enhanced delivery to the desired site of action and visible effects have become central points for the latest research due to their promising features. For this purpose, several methods have been identified and described. Physical techniques include thermal ablation (radiofrequency and laser), electrical methods (electroporation, iontophoresis), mechanical approach (microneedles), and ultrasounds. As an alternative, innovative formulations have been developed in nano-systems such as liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, nanoemulsions, and other nanomaterials to reduce skin irritation and improve product effectiveness. The purpose of this review is to provide the latest information regarding these noteworthy molecules and the reasoning behind their use in cosmetic formulations.

Bioactive oligopeptides and the application in skin regeneration and rejuvenation

Oligopeptides, composed of 2-10 amino acid residues, are protein fragments with unique structural characteristics, including small molecular size, high biocompatibility, and modifiable functional groups. These features endow oligopeptides with excellent permeability, safety, and versatile biological activities, making them widely applicable in disease treatment, drug delivery, and skincare. In particular, oligopeptides have emerged as advanced ingredients in skincare, offering anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, and whitening effects by regulating key biological processes such as collagen synthesis, antioxidant defense, and melanin production. This review comprehensively discusses the structural properties, functional mechanisms, and diverse applications of oligopeptides and their derivatives, highlighting their potential in skin regeneration, rejuvenation, and anti-aging medicine. By providing insights into the latest advancements, this review aims to serve as a valuable reference for future research and development in oligopeptide-based therapeutics and skincare innovations.

Regenerative Aesthetics: A Genuine Frontier or Just a Facet of Regenerative Medicine: A Systematic Review

BACKGROUND

Regenerative aesthetics claims to enhance cosmetic outcomes through advanced biological interventions like Stem cell and Exosome therapy, Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), Photobiomodulation, bioactive peptides and treatment for cellular senescence yet lacks substantial scientific and regulatory validation.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the scientific and clinical foundations of regenerative medicine techniques in non-surgical aesthetics and assess the legitimacy of regenerative aesthetics as a medical specialty.

METHODS

A systematic review was conducted according to PRISMA guidelines, searching databases including PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science for studies published in the last ten years. We included 19 studies, comprising 14 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and 5 prospective studies, focusing on interventions that purportedly use regenerative medicine principles in aesthetic applications.

RESULTS

The review highlights a prevalent gap in molecular and clinical evidence supporting the efficacy and safety of regenerative aesthetics. Despite the robust design of the included RCTs and prospective studies, there remains a significant lack of consistent, high-quality evidence proving the effectiveness of these interventions. Issues such as inadequate reporting, unclear molecular mechanisms, and absence of long-term safety data were common.

CONCLUSION

The field of regenerative aesthetics lacks the necessary scientific rigour and regulatory compliance to be recognized as a legitimate medical specialty. This review underscores the need for stringent scientific validation and regulatory oversight to ensure patient safety and treatment efficacy before these techniques can be recommended for clinical use.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE II

This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266 .

Influence of the modification of the cosmetic peptide Argireline on the affinity toward copper(II) ions

Argireline (Ac-EEMQRR-NH2 ), a well-known neurotransmitter peptide with a potency similar to botulinum neurotoxins, reveals a proven affinity toward Cu(II) ions. We report herein Cu(II) chelating properties of three new Argireline derivatives, namely, AN4 (Ac-EAHRR-NH2 ), AN5 (Ac-EEHQRR-NH2 ), and AN6 (Ac-EAHQRK-NH2 ). Two complementary experimental techniques, i.e., potentiometric titration (PT) and isothermal titration calorimetry (ITC), have been employed to describe the acid-base properties of the investigated peptides as well as the thermodynamic parameters of the Cu(II) complex formation. Additionally, based on density functional theory (DFT) calculations, we propose the most likely structures of the resulting Cu-peptide complexes. Finally, the cytotoxicity of the free peptides and the corresponding Cu(II) complexes was estimated in human skin cells for their possible future cosmetic application. The biological results were subsequently compared with free Argireline, its Cu(II)-complexes, and the previously studied AN2 derivative (EAHQRR).

Investigating the effects of Argireline in a skin serum containing hyaluronic acids on skin surface wrinkles using the Visia® Complexion Analysis camera system for objective skin analysis

Objective

To analyze the effects of Argireline on skin surface wrinkles using the Visia® camera system developed by Canfield Scientific Inc., U.S.A., for facial image capture.

Method

Nineteen female participants were recruited from a plastic surgery clinic. Initial facial images captured the left, front, and right sides of the participants' faces, which were documented as timepoint one. Following this, the participants immediately began to apply a facial skin serum containing triple hyaluronic acids produced by CNC cosmetic GmbH, Philippsburg, Germany. The serum was applied once in the morning and once in the evening. Participants received two identical containers labeled L for left and R for right, with each container to be used on the corresponding facial side, particularly around the eye area. One container contained Argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, which previously was deemed to be a biosafe alternative to botulinum neurotoxin. The study was conducted as double-blind; neither the participants nor researchers knew which of the two containers contained Argireline. Participants were allowed to use their own cosmetic products throughout the study. After four weeks, the participants returned to have their faces recaptured using the Visia® camera, which was documented as timepoint two. The absolute scores of the wrinkles were noted, and results on both sides of the face were calculated and compared. The "TruSkinAge®" measurement provided by the Visia® camera was reviewed for each face side. Results between both time points and both sides of the face were compared. After the data analysis was complete, the company was contacted to determine which container contained Argireline.

Results

Nineteen participants returned for facial image capture. There were no significant adverse events, allergic reactions, or skin irritations. The investigation revealed that the wrinkle score slightly decreased for the right and left side of the face following four weeks of serum application. However, this decrease was not significant (p>0.05) based on the Wilcoxon matched pairs tests for the wrinkle scores (right side p=0.060 and left side p=0.176) and Truskin Ages® results (right side p=0.096 and left side p=0.489).Comparing the data from the right side with that from the left side of the face revealed that neither demonstrated a significant reduction in wrinkle score (p=0.829) or Truskin Ages® results (p=0.804). Argireline was included in the serum applied to the right side of the face. However, no statistical significance was seen in the results on this side of the face indicating any possible effects.

Conclusion

Wrinkle scores and Truskin Ages® results were observed to decrease non-significantly following the application of a skin serum involving hyaluronic acid. The Visia® imaging method was used to analyze the data objectively. Differences between both sides of the face that were treated with and without Argireline were not statistically significant. Therefore, the effect of Argireline was not proven. While Argireline presented with low toxicity, its efficacy was found not to be significant. Therefore, it is not deemed to be an alternative treatment to botulinum toxin.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

Quantitation of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 in Cosmetics by Hydrophilic Interaction Liquid Chromatography Coupled to Photo Diode Array Detection

Bioactive peptides are gaining more and more popularity in the research and development of cosmetic products with anti-aging effect. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a hydrophilic peptide incorporated in cosmetics to reduce the under-eye wrinkles and the forehead furrows. Hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC) is the separation technique of choice for analyzing peptides. In this work, a rapid HILIC method coupled to photodiode array detection operated at 214 nm was developed, validated and used to determine acetyl-hexapeptide-8 in cosmetics. Chromatography was performed on a Xbridge® HILIC BEH analytical column using as mobile phase a 40 mM ammonium formate water solution (pH 6.5)-acetonitrile mixture 30:70, v/v at flow rate 0.25 mL min−1. The assay was linear over the concentration range 20 to 30 μg mL−1 for the cosmetic formulations and 0.004 to 0.007% (w/w) for the cosmetic cream. The limits of quantitation for acetyl hexapeptide-8 were 1.5 μg mL−1 and 0.002% (w/w) for the assay of cosmetic formulations and cosmetic creams, respectively. The method was applied to the analysis of cosmetic formulations and anti-wrinkle cosmetic creams.

Trending Anti-Aging Peptides

The development of synthetic peptides for skin care dates to the 1980s. The cosmetic industry periodically launches new peptides, as they are promising and appealing active ingredients in the growing and innovative cosmetics market. In this study, trends in the use of peptides in anti-aging products were analyzed by comparing the composition of the products marketed in 2011 with products launched or reformulated in 2018. The scientific and marketing evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics was also compiled from products’ labels, suppliers’ technical data forms and online scientific databases. The use of peptides in anti-aging cosmetics increased by 7.2%, while the variety and the number of peptide combinations in products have increased by 88.5%. The most used peptides in antiaging cosmetic formulations are, in descending order, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8. In 2011, the majority of peptides were obtained from synthesis, while in 2018, biotechnology processing was the dominant source. This study provides an overview of the market trends regarding the use of peptides in anti-aging products, providing meaningful data for scientists involved in the development of new peptides to identify opportunities for innovation in this area.

Cosmeceutical Peptides in the Framework of Sustainable Wellness Economy

Among the many aspects that contribute to the wellness of each individual, healthy and younger-looking skin play a relevant role, as clearly shown by the important growth of the skin-care products market observed in recent years. In this scenario, the field of cosmeceuticals appears particularly promising, being based on cosmetic products containing active ingredients. Among these, several peptides were proposed for cosmeceutical applications, thanks to their specific interaction with biological targets. In this mini-review, we report some of the most investigated and used peptides for cosmetic formulations, taking into account that cosmeceutical peptides are basically divided into three main categories (i.e., neurotransmitter inhibitors, carriers, and signal peptides). Special attention was payed to the scientific studies supporting the claimed biological activity of these peptides, as a fundamental aspect that should underpin the growth of this field in the framework of a sustainable wellness economy.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Botulinum toxin (Botox) A for reducing the appearance of facial wrinkles: a literature review of clinical use and pharmacological aspect

Background: Botulinum toxin (Botox) consists of 7 types of neurotoxins; however, only toxins A and B are used clinically. Botox A is used for several disorders in the field of medicine, particularly in dermatology, for cosmetic purposes. It is produced by the bacterium Clostridium botulinum and can be used as a treatment to reduce the appearance of wrinkles in the upper areas of the face, elevate the eyebrows and treat problems such as hyperhidrosis, lichen simplex, pompholyx (dyshidrotic eczema) and acne vulgaris.

Objectives: This article provides a literature review regarding the general issue of Botox as a treatment for reducing facial wrinkle.

Discussion: Botox works by blocking the release of acetylcholine, resulting in paralysis of the local muscles, which usually occurs 24 hrs to two weeks following Botox injection. This effect will last three to six months. The optimal dose of cosmetic Botox in dermatology is 20 units. Botox is relatively safe and does not result in any adverse side effects. However, in certain circumstances, the effect of Botox will gradually resolve, resulting in reduced muscle paralysis over time.

Conclusion: Botox is good and safe medicine to reduce the appearance of facial wrinkles.