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Yu S, Lee M, Seo D, Kim H, Park CS, Sung D. Enhanced wound healing via ROS-triggered release of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate loaded in ferrocene-based polymer nanoparticles. Redox Biol 2025; 84:103659. [PMID: 40367861 DOI: 10.1016/j.redox.2025.103659] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/01/2025] [Revised: 05/01/2025] [Accepted: 05/01/2025] [Indexed: 05/16/2025] Open
Abstract
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (AT), a vitamin C derivative, exhibits better stability and transdermal absorption than vitamin C and shows potential for skin whitening and wound healing. However, their low water solubility and specific storage requirements limit their application. To overcome these limitations, in this study, we aimed to develop AT-loaded ferrocene polymer nanoparticles (AT@FNPs) using biocompatible amphiphilic polymers. The nanoprecipitated nanoparticles exhibited enhanced AT stability, loading efficiency, and controlled release in reactive oxygen species (ROS)-rich wound environments. Moreover, the ROS ROS-trigger of AT@FNPs facilitated targeted drug release and ROS scavenging, thereby enhancing the antioxidant activity. The release of AT from the AT@FNPs in wounds promoted cell proliferation and accelerated wound closure in a mouse model. Overall, our findings highlight the potential of the developed ROS-triggered AT@FNPs as smart drug delivery systems for wound healing and skin treatment.
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Affiliation(s)
- Sohyeon Yu
- Center for Bio-Healthcare Materials, Bio-Convergence Materials R&D Division, Korea Institute of Ceramic Engineering and Technology, Cheongju, 28160, Republic of Korea; Department of Chemical and Biomolecular Engineering, Yonsei University, Seoul, 03722, Republic of Korea
| | - Minhyeok Lee
- Department of Pharmaceutics, College of Pharmacy, Chungbuk National University, 1 Chungdae-ro, Seowon-gu, Cheongju, 28644, Republic of Korea
| | - Dongseong Seo
- Center for Bio-Healthcare Materials, Bio-Convergence Materials R&D Division, Korea Institute of Ceramic Engineering and Technology, Cheongju, 28160, Republic of Korea; Department of Applied Bioengineering, Graduate School of Convergence Science and Technology, Seoul National University, Seoul, 08826, Republic of Korea
| | - Hyungjun Kim
- Department of Chemistry and Bioscience, Kumoh National Institute of Technology, 61 Daehak-ro, Gumi, 39177, Republic of Korea
| | - Chan-Su Park
- Department of Pharmaceutics, College of Pharmacy, Chungbuk National University, 1 Chungdae-ro, Seowon-gu, Cheongju, 28644, Republic of Korea.
| | - Daekyung Sung
- Center for Bio-Healthcare Materials, Bio-Convergence Materials R&D Division, Korea Institute of Ceramic Engineering and Technology, Cheongju, 28160, Republic of Korea.
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2
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Taheri M, Seirafianpour F, Fallahian A, Hosseinzadeh A, Reiter RJ, Mehrzadi S. Exploring melatonin's signalling pathways in the protection against age-related skin deterioration. Pharmacol Rep 2025; 77:375-391. [PMID: 39883394 DOI: 10.1007/s43440-025-00699-5] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/17/2024] [Revised: 12/15/2024] [Accepted: 01/14/2025] [Indexed: 01/31/2025]
Abstract
Melatonin, renowned for regulating sleep-wake cycles, also exhibits notable anti-aging properties for the skin. Synthesized in the pineal gland and various tissues including the skin, melatonin's efficacy arises from its capacity to combat oxidative stress and shield the skin from ultraviolet (UV)-induced damage. Moreover, it curbs melanin production, thereby potentially ameliorating hyperpigmentation. The presence of melatonin receptors in diverse skin cell types and its documented ability to enhance skin tone, hydration, and texture upon topical administration underscores its promise as an anti-aging agent. Melatonin's protective effects likely emanate from its multifaceted characteristics, encompassing antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory functions, as well as its influence on collagen synthesis and mitochondrial activity. Chronic inflammation and oxidative stress initiate a detrimental feedback loop. Reactive oxygen species (ROS), notorious for damaging cellular structures, provoke immune responses by oxidizing vital molecules and activating signaling proteins. This triggers heightened expression of inflammatory genes, perpetuating the cycle. Such dysregulation significantly compromises the body's resilience against infections and other health adversities. This study embarks on an exploration of the fundamental signaling pathways implicated in skin aging. Furthermore, it delves into the therapeutic potential of melatonin and its anti-aging attributes within the realm of skin health.
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Affiliation(s)
- Maryam Taheri
- Medical School, Iran University of Medical Sciences (IUMS), Tehran, Iran
| | | | - Amirali Fallahian
- Department of Dermatology, School of Medicine, Rasool Akram Medical Complex, Iran University of Medical Sciences (IUMS), Tehran, Iran
| | - Azam Hosseinzadeh
- Razi Drug Research Centre, Iran University of Medical Sciences (IUMS), Tehran, Iran
| | - Russel J Reiter
- Department of Cell Systems and Anatomy, Long School of Medicine, UT Health San Antonio, San Antonio, TX, United States
| | - Saeed Mehrzadi
- Razi Drug Research Centre, Iran University of Medical Sciences (IUMS), Tehran, Iran.
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Greco G, Di Lorenzo R, Ricci L, Di Serio T, Vardaro E, Laneri S. Clinical Studies Using Topical Melatonin. Int J Mol Sci 2024; 25:5167. [PMID: 38791203 PMCID: PMC11121188 DOI: 10.3390/ijms25105167] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/20/2024] [Revised: 05/03/2024] [Accepted: 05/07/2024] [Indexed: 05/26/2024] Open
Abstract
Melatonin is ubiquitously present in all animals and plants, where it exerts a variety of physiological activities thanks to its antioxidant properties and its key role as the first messenger of extracellular signaling functions. Most of the clinical studies on melatonin refer to its widespread oral use as a dietary supplement to improve sleep. A far smaller number of articles describe the clinical applications of topical melatonin to treat or prevent skin disorders by exploiting its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. This review focuses on the clinical studies in which melatonin was applied on the skin as a photoprotective, anti-aging, or hair growth-promoting agent. The methodologies and results of such studies are discussed to provide an overall picture of the state of the art in this intriguing field of research. The clinical studies in which melatonin was applied on the skin before exposure to radiation (UV, sunlight, and high-energy beams) were all characterized by an appropriate design (randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled) and strongly support its clinical efficacy in preventing or reducing skin damage such as dermatitis, erythema, and sunburn. Most of the studies examined in this review do not provide a clear demonstration of the efficacy of topical melatonin as a skin anti-aging or as a hair growth-promoting agent owing to limitations in their design and/or to the use of melatonin combined with extra active ingredients, except for one trial that suggests a possible beneficial role of melatonin in treating some forms of alopecia in women. Further research efforts are required to reach definitive conclusions concerning the actual benefits of topical melatonin to counteract skin aging and hair loss.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | | | | | | | - Sonia Laneri
- Dipartimento di Farmacia, Università degli Studi di Napoli Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano, 49, 80131 Napoli, Italy; (G.G.); (R.D.L.); (L.R.); (T.D.S.); (E.V.)
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Portocarrero Huang G, Idkowiak-Baldys J, Liebel F, Jones C, Haxaire C, DiNatale L, Bayat A, Glynn JR. L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits. Int J Cosmet Sci 2024; 46:24-38. [PMID: 37562497 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12887] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/30/2023] [Revised: 07/11/2023] [Accepted: 07/28/2023] [Indexed: 08/12/2023]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L-4-thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non-proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing. METHODS In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46-66 years old with mild-to-moderate wrinkles. RESULTS In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro-collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post-treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation. CONCLUSION L4 is a novel, multi-functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage.
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Affiliation(s)
- Gloria Portocarrero Huang
- Avon Skin Care Institute, Global Research and Development, Avon Products Inc., Suffern, New York, USA
| | - Jolanta Idkowiak-Baldys
- Avon Skin Care Institute, Global Research and Development, Avon Products Inc., Suffern, New York, USA
| | - Frank Liebel
- Avon Skin Care Institute, Global Research and Development, Avon Products Inc., Suffern, New York, USA
| | - Constantina Jones
- Avon Skin Care Institute, Global Research and Development, Avon Products Inc., Suffern, New York, USA
| | - Coline Haxaire
- Avon Skin Care Institute, Global Research and Development, Avon Products Inc., Suffern, New York, USA
| | - Lisa DiNatale
- Avon Skin Care Institute, Global Research and Development, Avon Products Inc., Suffern, New York, USA
| | - Ardeshir Bayat
- MRC Wound Healing Unit, Hair and Skin Research Laboratory, Division of Dermatology, Department of Medicine, Faculty of Health Sciences, Groote Schuur Hospital, University of Cape Town, Cape Town, South Africa
| | - John R Glynn
- Avon Skin Care Institute, Global Research and Development, Avon Products Inc., Suffern, New York, USA
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Nizam NN, Mahmud S, Ark SMA, Kamruzzaman M, Hasan MK. Bakuchiol, a natural constituent and its pharmacological benefits. F1000Res 2023; 12:29. [PMID: 38021404 PMCID: PMC10683784 DOI: 10.12688/f1000research.129072.2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Submit a Manuscript] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Accepted: 11/01/2023] [Indexed: 12/01/2023] Open
Abstract
Background and aims Natural compounds extracted from medicinal plants have recently gained attention in therapeutics as they are considered to have lower Toxicity and higher tolerability relative to chemically synthesized compounds. Bakuchiol from Psoralea corylifolia L. is one such compound; it is a type of meroterpene derived from the leaves and seeds of Psoralea corylifolia plants. Natural sources of bakuchiol have been used in traditional Chinese and Indian medicine for centuries due to its preventive benefits against tumors and inflammation. It plays a strong potential role as an antioxidant with impressive abilities to remove Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). This review has focused on bakuchiol's extraction, therapeutic applications, and pharmacological benefits. Methods A search strategy has been followed to retrieve the relevant newly published literature on the pharmacological benefits of bakuchiol. After an extensive study of the retrieved articles and maintaining the inclusion and exclusion criteria, 110 articles were finally selected for this review. Results Strong support of primary research on the protective effects via antitumorigenic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, antimicrobial, and antiviral activities are delineated. Conclusions From ancient to modern life, medicinal plants have always been drawing the attention of human beings to alleviate ailments for a healthy and balanced lifestyle. This review is a comprehensive approach to highlighting bona fide essential pharmacological benefits and mechanisms underlying their therapeutic applications.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nuder Nower Nizam
- Department of Public Health, American International University Bangladesh, Dhaka, 1229, Bangladesh
| | - Sohel Mahmud
- Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, Tajgaon College, Dhaka, National University, Bangladesh, Gazipur, 1704, Bangladesh
| | - S M Albar Ark
- Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, Tajgaon College, Dhaka, National University, Bangladesh, Gazipur, 1704, Bangladesh
| | - Mohammad Kamruzzaman
- Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, Mawlana Bhashani Science and Technology University, Santosh, Tangail, 1902, Bangladesh
- Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, University of Dhaka, Dhaka, 1000, Bangladesh
| | - Md. Kamrul Hasan
- Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, Tajgaon College, Dhaka, National University, Bangladesh, Gazipur, 1704, Bangladesh
- Department of Public Health, North South University, Dhaka, 1229, Bangladesh
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Samra T, Gomez-Gomez T, Linowiecka K, Akhundlu A, Lopez de Mendoza G, Gompels M, Lee WW, Gherardini J, Chéret J, Paus R. Melatonin Exerts Prominent, Differential Epidermal and Dermal Anti-Aging Properties in Aged Human Eyelid Skin Ex Vivo. Int J Mol Sci 2023; 24:15963. [PMID: 37958946 PMCID: PMC10647640 DOI: 10.3390/ijms242115963] [Citation(s) in RCA: 11] [Impact Index Per Article: 5.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/13/2023] [Revised: 10/27/2023] [Accepted: 10/31/2023] [Indexed: 11/15/2023] Open
Abstract
Human skin aging is associated with functional deterioration on multiple levels of physiology, necessitating the development of effective skin senotherapeutics. The well-tolerated neurohormone melatonin unfolds anti-aging properties in vitro and in vivo, but it remains unclear whether these effects translate to aged human skin ex vivo. We tested this in organ-cultured, full-thickness human eyelid skin (5-6 donors; 49-77 years) by adding melatonin to the culture medium, followed by the assessment of core aging biomarkers via quantitative immunohistochemistry. Over 6 days, 200 µM melatonin significantly downregulated the intraepidermal activity of the aging-promoting mTORC1 pathway (as visualized by reduced S6 phosphorylation) and MMP-1 protein expression in the epidermis compared to vehicle-treated control skin. Conversely, the transmembrane collagen 17A1, a key stem cell niche matrix molecule that declines with aging, and mitochondrial markers (e.g., TFAM, MTCO-1, and VDAC/porin) were significantly upregulated. Interestingly, 100 µM melatonin also significantly increased the epidermal expression of VEGF-A protein, which is required and sufficient for inducing human skin rejuvenation. In aged human dermis, melatonin significantly increased fibrillin-1 protein expression and improved fibrillin structural organization, indicating an improved collagen and elastic fiber network. In contrast, other key aging biomarkers (SIRT-1, lamin-B1, p16INK4, collagen I) remained unchanged. This ex vivo study provides proof of principle that melatonin indeed exerts long-suspected but never conclusively demonstrated and surprisingly differential anti-aging effects in aged human epidermis and dermis.
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Affiliation(s)
- Tara Samra
- Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, Miami, FL 33125, USA; (T.S.); (T.G.-G.); (K.L.); (A.A.); (J.G.); (J.C.)
| | - Tatiana Gomez-Gomez
- Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, Miami, FL 33125, USA; (T.S.); (T.G.-G.); (K.L.); (A.A.); (J.G.); (J.C.)
| | - Kinga Linowiecka
- Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, Miami, FL 33125, USA; (T.S.); (T.G.-G.); (K.L.); (A.A.); (J.G.); (J.C.)
- Department of Human Biology, Faculty of Biological and Veterinary Sciences, Nicolaus Copernicus University, Lwowska 1, 87-100 Torun, Poland
| | - Aysun Akhundlu
- Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, Miami, FL 33125, USA; (T.S.); (T.G.-G.); (K.L.); (A.A.); (J.G.); (J.C.)
| | - Gabriella Lopez de Mendoza
- Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, Miami, FL 33125, USA; (T.S.); (T.G.-G.); (K.L.); (A.A.); (J.G.); (J.C.)
| | - Matthew Gompels
- Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, Miami, FL 33125, USA; (T.S.); (T.G.-G.); (K.L.); (A.A.); (J.G.); (J.C.)
| | - Wendy W. Lee
- Bascom Palmer Eye Institute, Department of Ophthalmology, University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, Miami, FL 33125, USA
| | - Jennifer Gherardini
- Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, Miami, FL 33125, USA; (T.S.); (T.G.-G.); (K.L.); (A.A.); (J.G.); (J.C.)
| | - Jérémy Chéret
- Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, Miami, FL 33125, USA; (T.S.); (T.G.-G.); (K.L.); (A.A.); (J.G.); (J.C.)
| | - Ralf Paus
- Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, Miami, FL 33125, USA; (T.S.); (T.G.-G.); (K.L.); (A.A.); (J.G.); (J.C.)
- Monasterium Laboratory, 48149 Muenster, Germany
- CUTANEON—Skin & Hair Innovations, 22335 Hamburg, Germany
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Song L, Zhang S. Anti-Aging Activity and Modes of Action of Compounds from Natural Food Sources. Biomolecules 2023; 13:1600. [PMID: 38002283 PMCID: PMC10669485 DOI: 10.3390/biom13111600] [Citation(s) in RCA: 15] [Impact Index Per Article: 7.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/04/2023] [Revised: 10/21/2023] [Accepted: 10/28/2023] [Indexed: 11/26/2023] Open
Abstract
Aging is a natural and inescapable phenomenon characterized by a progressive deterioration of physiological functions, leading to increased vulnerability to chronic diseases and death. With economic and medical development, the elderly population is gradually increasing, which poses a great burden to society, the economy and the medical field. Thus, healthy aging has now become a common aspiration among people over the world. Accumulating evidence indicates that substances that can mediate the deteriorated physiological processes are highly likely to have the potential to prolong lifespan and improve aging-associated diseases. Foods from natural sources are full of bioactive compounds, such as polysaccharides, polyphenols, carotenoids, sterols, terpenoids and vitamins. These bioactive compounds and their derivatives have been shown to be able to delay aging and/or improve aging-associated diseases, thereby prolonging lifespan, via regulation of various physiological processes. Here, we summarize the current understanding of the anti-aging activities of the compounds, polysaccharides, polyphenols, carotenoids, sterols, terpenoids and vitamins from natural food sources, and their modes of action in delaying aging and improving aging-associated diseases. This will certainly provide a reference for further research on the anti-aging effects of bioactive compounds from natural food sources.
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Affiliation(s)
- Lili Song
- Key Laboratory of Biomedical Materials of Zhangjiakou, College of Lab Medicine, Hebei North University, Zhangjiakou 075000, China;
| | - Shicui Zhang
- College of Life and Geographic Sciences, Kashi University, Kashi 844000, China
- Xinjiang Key Laboratory of Biological Resources and Ecology of Pamirs Plateau, Kashi 844000, China
- Department of Marine Biology, Institute of Evolution & Marine Biodiversity, Ocean University of China, 5 Yushan Road, Qingdao 266003, China
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Brown A, Furmanczyk M, Ramos D, Ribes A, Pons L, Bustos J, de Henestrosa ARF, Granger C, Jourdan E. Natural Retinol Analogs Potentiate the Effects of Retinal on Aged and Photodamaged Skin: Results from In Vitro to Clinical Studies. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) 2023; 13:2299-2317. [PMID: 37615835 PMCID: PMC10539272 DOI: 10.1007/s13555-023-01004-z] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/06/2023] [Accepted: 08/02/2023] [Indexed: 08/25/2023] Open
Abstract
INTRODUCTION Plants are a source of natural ingredients with retinol-like properties that can deliver anti-aging benefits without the side effects typically associated with retinoid use. We hypothesized that by combining two such analogs, bakuchiol (BAK) and Vigna aconitifolia extract (VAE), with the potent retinoid retinal (RAL), the anti-photoaging potential of RAL could be enhanced without compromising its skin irritation profile. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate that BAK and VAE potentiate the anti-photoaging activity of RAL. METHODS Gene expression profiling of full-thickness reconstructed skin was first used to examine the impact of BAK or VAE in combination with RAL on skin biology. Next, the irritative potential of this combination, and its capacity to reverse key signs of photoaging in an ex vivo model was assessed. Finally, a proof-of-concept open label clinical study was performed to evaluate the anti-photoaging capacity and skin compatibility of a cosmetic formulation (tri-retinoid complex; 3RC) containing this complex in combination with other well characterized anti-photoaging ingredients. RESULTS In vitro profiling suggested that combining 0.1% RAL with BAK or VAE potentiates the effect of RAL on keratinocyte differentiation and skin barrier function without affecting its skin irritation profile. When formulated with other anti-photoaging ingredients, such as niacinamide and melatonin, 3RC reversed ultraviolet radiation-induced deficits in structural components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid and collagen. In vivo, it led to a reversal of clinical signs of age and photodamage, with statistically significant improvement to skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), wrinkle count (-43.2%), and skin tone homogeneity (+7.0%), observed within 28 days of once nightly use. Notably, the number of crow's feet wrinkles was reduced in 100% of subjects. Furthermore, 3RC was very well tolerated. CONCLUSION These data suggest that 3RC is a highly effective and well-tolerated treatment for photoaging.
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Affiliation(s)
- Anthony Brown
- Innovation and Development, ISDIN, Carrer de Provençals 33, 08019, Barcelona, Spain.
| | - Marta Furmanczyk
- Innovation and Development, ISDIN, Carrer de Provençals 33, 08019, Barcelona, Spain
| | - David Ramos
- Innovation and Development, ISDIN, Carrer de Provençals 33, 08019, Barcelona, Spain
| | - Adrià Ribes
- Innovation and Development, ISDIN, Carrer de Provençals 33, 08019, Barcelona, Spain
| | - Laia Pons
- Innovation and Development, ISDIN, Carrer de Provençals 33, 08019, Barcelona, Spain
| | - Javier Bustos
- Innovation and Development, ISDIN, Carrer de Provençals 33, 08019, Barcelona, Spain
| | | | - Corinne Granger
- Innovation and Development, ISDIN, Carrer de Provençals 33, 08019, Barcelona, Spain
- Stella Polaris Europe, Paris, France
| | - Eric Jourdan
- Innovation and Development, ISDIN, Carrer de Provençals 33, 08019, Barcelona, Spain
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Khan N, Ahmed S, Sheraz MA, Anwar Z, Ahmad I. Pharmaceutical based cosmetic serums. PROFILES OF DRUG SUBSTANCES, EXCIPIENTS AND RELATED METHODOLOGY 2023; 48:167-210. [PMID: 37061274 DOI: 10.1016/bs.podrm.2022.11.006] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/31/2023]
Abstract
The growth and demand for cosmeceuticals (cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits) have been enhanced for the last few decades. Lately, the newly invented dosage form, i.e., the pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serum has been developed and widely employed in various non-invasive cosmetic procedures. Many pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums contain natural active components that claim to have a medical or drug-like effect on the skin, hair, and nails, including anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, hydrating, moisturizing, repairing, brightening and lightening skin, anti-hair fall, anti-fungal, and nail growth effect, etc. In comparison with other pharmaceutical-related cosmetic products (creams, gels, foams, and lotions, etc.), pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums produce more rapid and incredible effects on the skin. This chapter provides detailed knowledge about the different marketed pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums and their several types such as facial serums, hair serums, nail serums, under the eye serum, lip serum, hand, and foot serum, respectively. Moreover, some valuable procedures have also been discussed which provide prolong effects with desired results in the minimum duration of time after the few sessions of the serum treatment.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nimra Khan
- Department of Pharmacy Practice, Baqai Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Baqai Medical University, Karachi, Pakistan
| | - Sofia Ahmed
- Department of Pharmaceutics, Baqai Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Baqai Medical University, Karachi, Pakistan
| | - Muhammad Ali Sheraz
- Department of Pharmacy Practice, Baqai Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Baqai Medical University, Karachi, Pakistan; Department of Pharmaceutics, Baqai Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Baqai Medical University, Karachi, Pakistan
| | - Zubair Anwar
- Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Baqai Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Baqai Medical University, Karachi, Pakistan
| | - Iqbal Ahmad
- Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Baqai Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Baqai Medical University, Karachi, Pakistan
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10
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Puyana C, Chandan N, Tsoukas M. Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. J Cosmet Dermatol 2022; 21:6636-6643. [PMID: 36176207 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.15420] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/09/2022] [Accepted: 09/26/2022] [Indexed: 01/06/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Bakuchiol (BAK), a meroterpene phenol abundant in the plant Psoralea corylifolia, is an emerging cosmeceutical agent with promising anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties. The trend for "clean" skincare products and search for anti-aging retinoid alternatives have poised BAK as a "must-have" ingredient in skincare. AIMS Our aim was to review the data for the applications of BAK in dermatology. METHODS This is a systematic review of PubMed. RESULTS Thirty articles matched our search terms ["Bakuchiol" and "Dermatology"] or ["Bakuchiol" and "Skin"] of which one did not meet inclusion criteria, 16 were pre-clinical studies, seven clinical studies, three commentaries, two narrative reviews, and one report on adverse events. BAK has been mostly studied for its effects on photoaging, acne, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), showing beneficial results comparable to those achieved by topical retinoids. While having no structural resemblance to retinoids, BAK can function as a retinol analog, through retinol-like regulation of gene expression. In in vivo studies, BAK was used alone or in combination with other products resulting in a significant reduction in photodamage, hyperpigmentation, wrinkle scores, and acne severity. Additionally, in vitro studies hinted at its anti-cancer properties by inhibiting epidermal growth factor induced neoplastic cell transformation. Also, demonstrated potential applications in psoriasis by normalizing keratinocyte activity and in pigmentary disorders through inhibition of melanogenesis. There was one adverse event case reported of contact dermatitis in the literature. CONCLUSIONS Bakuchiol is a retinol alternative with anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. Additional studies are warranted to better understand its applications in dermatology.
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Affiliation(s)
- Carolina Puyana
- Department of Dermatology, University of Illinois at Chicago, Chicago, Illinois, USA
| | - Neha Chandan
- Department of Dermatology, University of Illinois at Chicago, Chicago, Illinois, USA
| | - Maria Tsoukas
- Department of Dermatology, University of Illinois at Chicago, Chicago, Illinois, USA
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11
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Adarsh Krishna TP, Edachery B, Athalathil S. Bakuchiol - a natural meroterpenoid: structure, isolation, synthesis and functionalization approaches. RSC Adv 2022; 12:8815-8832. [PMID: 35424800 PMCID: PMC8985110 DOI: 10.1039/d1ra08771a] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/01/2021] [Accepted: 03/06/2022] [Indexed: 12/12/2022] Open
Abstract
Bakuchiol is an emblematic meroterpene class of natural product extracted from Psoralea corylifolia. It has been reported to possess a broad range of biological and pharmacological properties and is considered as a leading biomolecule. It is highly desirable to devise an efficient approach to access bakuchiol and its chemical biology applications. In this review we provided structural features, isolation methods, various chemical routes and late-stage functionalization (LSF) approaches for bakuchiol and its derivatives. Moreover, this review encompasses the structure-activity relationships (SAR), value-added contributions and future perspectives of bakuchiol.
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Affiliation(s)
- T P Adarsh Krishna
- R & D Division, Sreedhareeyam Farmherbs India Pvt. Ltd Ernakulam (Dist.) Kerala India-686 662
| | - Baldev Edachery
- R & D Division, Sreedhareeyam Farmherbs India Pvt. Ltd Ernakulam (Dist.) Kerala India-686 662
| | - Sunil Athalathil
- R & D Division, Sreedhareeyam Farmherbs India Pvt. Ltd Ernakulam (Dist.) Kerala India-686 662
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12
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Protective Role of Melatonin and Its Metabolites in Skin Aging. Int J Mol Sci 2022; 23:ijms23031238. [PMID: 35163162 PMCID: PMC8835651 DOI: 10.3390/ijms23031238] [Citation(s) in RCA: 62] [Impact Index Per Article: 20.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/21/2021] [Revised: 01/19/2022] [Accepted: 01/20/2022] [Indexed: 02/01/2023] Open
Abstract
The skin, being the largest organ in the human body, is exposed to the environment and suffers from both intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors. The skin aging process is characterized by several clinical features such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, and rough-textured appearance. This complex process is accompanied with phenotypic and functional changes in cutaneous and immune cells, as well as structural and functional disturbances in extracellular matrix components such as collagens and elastin. Because skin health is considered one of the principal factors representing overall “well-being” and the perception of “health” in humans, several anti-aging strategies have recently been developed. Thus, while the fundamental mechanisms regarding skin aging are known, new substances should be considered for introduction into dermatological treatments. Herein, we describe melatonin and its metabolites as potential “aging neutralizers”. Melatonin, an evolutionarily ancient derivative of serotonin with hormonal properties, is the main neuroendocrine secretory product of the pineal gland. It regulates circadian rhythmicity and also exerts anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, and anti-tumor capacities. The intention of this review is to summarize changes within skin aging, research advances on the molecular mechanisms leading to these changes, and the impact of the melatoninergic anti-oxidative system controlled by melatonin and its metabolites, targeting the prevention or reversal of skin aging.
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Skin Depigmenting Agents in Anti-Aging Cosmetics: A Medicinal Perspective on Emerging Ingredients. APPLIED SCIENCES-BASEL 2022. [DOI: 10.3390/app12020775] [Citation(s) in RCA: 9] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 02/04/2023]
Abstract
Human skin aging results from intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Uneven pigmentation is one of the major changes of extrinsic aging. Many compounds have been tested for depigmenting activity but only a few are actually used by the cosmetic industry, which is continually looking for new ingredients. In this study, the trends in the use of skin depigmenting ingredients in a panel of anti-aging formulations commercialized in the Portuguese pharmacy market were analyzed, by comparing the composition of the products marketed in 2011 with products launched or reformulated in 2018 (59% and 74%, respectively). The analysis of the top 12 ingredients put forward three novelties for 2018: tranexamic acid, bakuchiol, and 4-butylresorcinol. Regarding their mechanisms of action, tranexamic acid inhibits melanin synthesis through inhibition of the plasminogen/plasmin system. Bakuchiol depigmenting efficacy was attributed to the ability to block both α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone and tyrosinase activation, while 4-butylresorcinol exerts its action through the inhibition of both tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1). Industry-optimized and efficient synthetic methodologies that embrace green chemistry, reducing the environmental impact, are commonly used. This analysis aims to bring insights to both formulators, involved in the development of depigmenting cosmetic products, and chemists performing the synthesis of new and existing compounds intended for this purpose.
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14
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Santos Pizzo J, Cruz VHM, Rodrigues CA, Pelissari Manin L, Visentainer L, Oliveira Santos O, Maldaner L, Visentainer JV. Rapid determination of L-ascorbic acid content in vitamin C serums by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry. Int J Cosmet Sci 2022; 44:131-141. [PMID: 34986505 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12762] [Citation(s) in RCA: 11] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/28/2021] [Revised: 12/28/2021] [Accepted: 12/31/2021] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE This study aimed to develop and validate a rapid, simple, accurate, and precise analytical method for the quantification of L-AA in vitamin C serums. Moreover, the developed method was further applied to determine L-AA in eight different brands of vitamin C serums. A complementary study was also carried out to evaluate the stability of L-AA in the vitamin C serum samples after 15, 30, 45, and 60 days of storage at ambient temperature (15 ºC to 35 ºC). METHODS Ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MS/MS) was applied. RESULTS Quantitative analyses were performed with a total chromatographic run time of 1.5 min by matrix-matched calibration, and the analytical curve was linear over the range of 1-1700 μg L-1 with a correlation coefficient of 0.9998. The limits of detection (LOD) and quantification (LOQ) were 0.3 and 1.0 μg L-1 , respectively. Intra- and inter-assay precisions, expressed in terms of relative standard deviation (RSD), ranged from 0.3% and 2.2%, respectively, and recoveries in two concentration levels (1 and 5 µg L-1 ) were 103.9% and 101.2%, respectively. The proposed analytical method was successfully applied to determine de L-AA content of eight commercial vitamin C serum samples. The stability of the target analyte in samples stored at ambient temperature (15 ºC to 35 ºC) was evaluated throughout 60 days with a 15-day interval between analyses. At 0 days, L-AA content in samples ranged from 1.05 - 169.91 mg L-1 , decreasing over time. CONCLUSION The proposed method could be powerful in routine analyses to ensure the quality of L-AA vitamin C serums since it proved a simple, reliable, fast, precise, accurate, and sensitive analytical method.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jessica Santos Pizzo
- Departamento de Química, Universidade Estadual de Maringá (UEM), 87020-900, Maringá-PR, Brazil
| | | | | | - Luciana Pelissari Manin
- Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciência de Alimentos, Universidade Estadual de Maringá (UEM), 87020-900, Maringá-PR, Brazil
| | - Lorena Visentainer
- Clinica Lion Derm, Avenida Carneiro Leão, 563, 87014-010, Maringá - PR, Brazil
| | - Oscar Oliveira Santos
- Departamento de Química, Universidade Estadual de Maringá (UEM), 87020-900, Maringá-PR, Brazil.,Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciência de Alimentos, Universidade Estadual de Maringá (UEM), 87020-900, Maringá-PR, Brazil
| | - Liane Maldaner
- Departamento de Química, Universidade Estadual de Maringá (UEM), 87020-900, Maringá-PR, Brazil
| | - Jesuí Vergilio Visentainer
- Departamento de Química, Universidade Estadual de Maringá (UEM), 87020-900, Maringá-PR, Brazil.,Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciência de Alimentos, Universidade Estadual de Maringá (UEM), 87020-900, Maringá-PR, Brazil
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Esposito T, Mencherini T, Sansone F, Auriemma G, Gazzerro P, Puca RV, Iandoli R, Aquino RP. Development, Characterization, and Clinical Investigation of a New Topical Emulsion System Containing a Castanea sativa Spiny Burs Active Extract. Pharmaceutics 2021; 13:1634. [PMID: 34683927 PMCID: PMC8539921 DOI: 10.3390/pharmaceutics13101634] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/27/2021] [Revised: 10/01/2021] [Accepted: 10/04/2021] [Indexed: 12/11/2022] Open
Abstract
The study focused on the development and characterization of an O/W emulsion for skincare containing Castanea sativa spiny burs extract (CSE) as functional agent. The emulsion was stable and had suitable physicochemical and technological properties for dermal application and CSE showed no cytotoxicity in spontaneously immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) at active concentrations. A single-blind, placebo-controlled, monocentric study was designed to evaluate the skin tolerability and the skin performance of the CSE-loaded emulsion on healthy human volunteers. An improvement was observed in skin biomechanical properties such as hydration, skin elasticity and a reduction in the periorbital wrinkles in 30 days without altering the skin barrier function, sebum, pH, and erythema values. A significant skin moisturizing effect was detected while the skin barrier function was preserved. The selected natural ingredient combined with the designed formulation and the optimized preparation method has led to a final product that satisfies the physico-chemical and technological requirements underlying the safety of use and the formulative stability over time. With no negative skin reactions and highly significant effects on skin elasticity, wrinkles, and moisturization, the CSE-based emulsion achieved very satisfying outcomes representing a promising functional formulation for skin care.
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Affiliation(s)
- Tiziana Esposito
- Department of Pharmacy, University of Salerno, 84084 Fisciano, Italy; (T.E.); (G.A.); (P.G.); (R.P.A.)
- Unesco Chair Salerno, Plantae Medicinales Mediterraneae, University of Salerno, 84084 Fisciano, Italy
- COSM-HI Lab,“San Giuseppe Moscati” National Hospital (AORN), Contrada Amoretta, 83100 Avellino, Italy
| | - Teresa Mencherini
- Department of Pharmacy, University of Salerno, 84084 Fisciano, Italy; (T.E.); (G.A.); (P.G.); (R.P.A.)
- Unesco Chair Salerno, Plantae Medicinales Mediterraneae, University of Salerno, 84084 Fisciano, Italy
- COSM-HI Lab,“San Giuseppe Moscati” National Hospital (AORN), Contrada Amoretta, 83100 Avellino, Italy
| | - Francesca Sansone
- Department of Pharmacy, University of Salerno, 84084 Fisciano, Italy; (T.E.); (G.A.); (P.G.); (R.P.A.)
- Unesco Chair Salerno, Plantae Medicinales Mediterraneae, University of Salerno, 84084 Fisciano, Italy
- COSM-HI Lab,“San Giuseppe Moscati” National Hospital (AORN), Contrada Amoretta, 83100 Avellino, Italy
| | - Giulia Auriemma
- Department of Pharmacy, University of Salerno, 84084 Fisciano, Italy; (T.E.); (G.A.); (P.G.); (R.P.A.)
| | - Patrizia Gazzerro
- Department of Pharmacy, University of Salerno, 84084 Fisciano, Italy; (T.E.); (G.A.); (P.G.); (R.P.A.)
| | - Rosa Valentina Puca
- Dermatology and Dermosurgery, “San Giuseppe Moscati” National Hospital (AORN), Contrada Amoretta, 83100 Avellino, Italy; (R.V.P.); (R.I.)
| | - Raffaele Iandoli
- Dermatology and Dermosurgery, “San Giuseppe Moscati” National Hospital (AORN), Contrada Amoretta, 83100 Avellino, Italy; (R.V.P.); (R.I.)
| | - Rita Patrizia Aquino
- Department of Pharmacy, University of Salerno, 84084 Fisciano, Italy; (T.E.); (G.A.); (P.G.); (R.P.A.)
- Unesco Chair Salerno, Plantae Medicinales Mediterraneae, University of Salerno, 84084 Fisciano, Italy
- COSM-HI Lab,“San Giuseppe Moscati” National Hospital (AORN), Contrada Amoretta, 83100 Avellino, Italy
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Enescu CD, Bedford LM, Potts G, Fahs F. A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy. J Cosmet Dermatol 2021; 21:2349-2359. [PMID: 34559950 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14465] [Citation(s) in RCA: 20] [Impact Index Per Article: 5.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/24/2021] [Accepted: 09/08/2021] [Indexed: 12/18/2022]
Abstract
Vitamin C is a popular ingredient in over-the-counter cosmeceuticals due to its many biological functions in maintaining and improving skin health by treating UV damage, improving discoloration, and boosting collagen production. Several chemically modified derivatives of vitamin C have been developed in an attempt to increase the stability, percutaneous absorption, and overall activity of this ingredient in topical formulations. The goal of this review is to evaluate the differences between vitamin C derivatives that have been designed for cosmeceutical use and their efficacy.
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Affiliation(s)
| | - Lisa M Bedford
- Department of Dermatology, Wayne State University, Detroit, MI, USA
| | - Geoffrey Potts
- Department of Dermatology, Wayne State University, Detroit, MI, USA
| | - Fatima Fahs
- Department of Dermatology, Wayne State University, Detroit, MI, USA
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Jafernik K, Halina E, Ercisli S, Szopa A. Characteristics of bakuchiol - the compound with high biological activity and the main source of its acquisition - Cullen corylifolium (L.) Medik. Nat Prod Res 2020; 35:5828-5842. [PMID: 33185126 DOI: 10.1080/14786419.2020.1837813] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/26/2022]
Abstract
The article presents the characteristics of bakuchiol - a natural compound valuable in cosmetology and pharmacology. The only source for obtaining this specific meroterpenic phenol is the fruit of the species Cullen corylifolium (Psoralea corylifolia). Bakuchiol has recently been playing a significant role in cosmetology as a "natural substitute" for retinol, free of side effects.Clinical studies confirm valuable cosmetological properties of bakuchiol, such as anti-ageing, anti-pigmentation and anti-acne effects. Scientific research has also shown valuable pharmacological properties of bakuchiol, such as anti-cancer, hepatoprotective, cardioprotective, hypoglycemic, hypolipemic, and antidepressant. In addition, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobal activities of bakuchiol, valuable from the point of view of both cosmetology and therapy, have also been confirmed.A separate part of the article is devoted to the botanical, chemical and pharmacological characteristics of the species C. corylifolium as the main source for obtaining bakuchiol.
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Affiliation(s)
- Karolina Jafernik
- Department of Pharmaceutical Botany, Jagiellonian University, Medical College, Kraków, Poland
| | - Ekiert Halina
- Department of Pharmaceutical Botany, Jagiellonian University, Medical College, Kraków, Poland
| | - Sezai Ercisli
- Department of Horticulture, Ataturk University, Agricultural Faculty, Erzurum, Turkey
| | - Agnieszka Szopa
- Department of Pharmaceutical Botany, Jagiellonian University, Medical College, Kraków, Poland
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Liu B, You Y, Lin D, Chen Z, Qiu P. Simple Colorimetric and Fluorometric Assay Based on 2,3-Naphthalenedialdehyde for Melatonin in Human Saliva. CHEMISTRY AFRICA 2020. [DOI: 10.1007/s42250-019-00105-7] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/27/2023]
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Goldberg DJ, Mraz-Robinson D, Granger C. Efficacy and safety of a 3-in-1 antiaging night facial serum containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate through clinical and histological analysis. J Cosmet Dermatol 2020; 19:884-890. [PMID: 32061043 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13329] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/13/2020] [Accepted: 01/14/2020] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Changes induced by intrinsic and extrinsic photoaging result in signs of skin aging including altered pigmentation and wrinkles. A 3-in-1 night facial serum (NFS) was developed to treat skin aging by antioxidative and retinoid-like mechanisms. OBJECTIVE To determine the clinical and histological effects of the 3-in-1 NFS on signs of skin aging, clinically and histologically. METHODS & MATERIALS Twenty-four subjects applied serum nightly for 12 weeks, and 12 subjects continued an extension study to 24 weeks. Clinical assessment of skin quality was performed by dermatologists. Skin biopsy was performed at 12 weeks to assess histological changes. RESULTS There was a global aesthetic improvement over the duration of the study: +1.21 points at 12 weeks; +1.25 at 24 weeks. Skin texture, pigmentation, erythema, skin tone, complexion, lines, and wrinkles all significantly improved (P < .05). There was also a significant reduction in photodamage, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkle scores, most notably horizontal forehead expression lines, and marionette lines (P < .05 for all). Dermal and epidermal thickness increased without reaching statistical significance. CONCLUSION The 3-in-1 NFS had clinically and statistically significant effects on signs of skin aging after 12 weeks, which became more pronounced after 24 weeks.
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Affiliation(s)
- David J Goldberg
- Skin Laser and Surgery Specialists of NY and NJ, Hackensack, NJ, USA.,Icahn School of Medicine at Mt. Sinai, New York, NY, USA
| | - Deanne Mraz-Robinson
- Modern Dermatology of Connecticut, Westport, CT, USA.,Yale-New Haven Hospital, New Haven, CT, USA
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Narda M, Brown A, Muscatelli-Groux B, Grimaud JA, Granger C. Epidermal and Dermal Hallmarks of Photoaging are Prevented by Treatment with Night Serum Containing Melatonin, Bakuchiol, and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate: In Vitro and Ex Vivo Studies. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) 2020; 10:191-202. [PMID: 31900804 PMCID: PMC6994585 DOI: 10.1007/s13555-019-00349-8] [Citation(s) in RCA: 5] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/18/2019] [Indexed: 12/29/2022] Open
Abstract
INTRODUCTION Photoaging is a complex process that is chiefly the result of oxidative stress caused by ultraviolet (UV)-generated reactive oxygen species. To counter this process, we developed a 3-in-1 night facial serum (3-in-1 NFS) containing a combination of direct and indirect antioxidants and polyphenols that is designed to attenuate UV-generated free radicals and stimulate dermal protein synthesis. In clinical trials 3-in-1 NFS improved the appearance of photoaged skin. In this study we sought to identify some of the main histologic changes responsible for this. METHODS We performed an immunolabeling analysis of some of the salient epidermal and dermal proteins in 3-in-1 NFS-treated primary epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs) and dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) in vitro, and in UV-exposed skin explants ex vivo. Numbers of apoptotic sunburn cells following exposure of 3-in-1 NFS-treated skin explants to UV radiation were also determined. RESULTS We demonstrate that 3-in-1 NFS increases levels of filaggrin and aquaporin 3 in HEKs, and levels of collagen I and collagen III in HDFs in vitro. Levels of precursor procollagen type I and tropoelastin were increased in ex vivo skin explants. Numbers of apoptotic sunburn cells were significantly reduced in UV-exposed skin explants. These effects were only observed with the combination of ingredients in 3-in-1 NFS, suggesting that they have a synergistic effect on photoaged skin biology. CONCLUSION Our results show that some of the histological hallmarks of photoaging are improved with the use of 3-in-1 NFS.
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