Quality control of retinoids in commercial cosmetic products

Efficacy of Topical Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate-Peptide Product Versus Fractional CO2 Laser in Facial Aging

BACKGROUND

Many people are interested in addressing visible signs of aging with non-invasive cosmetic treatments. Development of effective topical products will provide options to delay or support cosmetic procedures.

AIMS

This study assessed and compared the efficacy and tolerance of a topical product used over the course of 16 weeks to a single ablative laser treatment on women with moderate global photodamage on the face.

METHODS

Subjects in Cell 1 (Laser Cell) were treated over the entire face with a fractional CO2 laser system. Subjects in Cell 2 (Topical Serum Cell) were treated with a topical serum containing hydroxypinacolone retinoate and peptides over the entire face, twice per day for 16 weeks. The study was composed of 71 women, with 29 in the Laser Cell (mean age 56.2) and 42 in the Topical Serum Cell (mean age 55.0), between 40 and 65 years old. Expert grading was used to determine efficacy parameters.

RESULTS

Participants in the Topical Serum Cell achieved more significant improvement (p < 0.05) in Marionette lines, fine lines (global face), wrinkles (global face), wrinkles (crow's feet), nasolabial folds, texture, smoothness (tactile), global hyperpigmentation, lift, and photodamage compared to participants in the Laser Cell. Participants in the Topical Serum Cell achieved parity in the look of fine lines (crow's feet), forehead lines, glabella, firmness/bounce (tactile), skin tone evenness, radiance.

CONCLUSIONS

While no statistically significant differences in tolerability were observed, treatment with the topical cosmetic product achieved parity or statistically better improvement in parameters compared to laser treatment at 16 weeks.

Retinol semisolid preparations in cosmetics: transcutaneous permeation mechanism and behaviour

Retinol is widely used to treat skin ageing because of its effect on cell differentiation, proliferation and apoptosis. However, its potential benefits appear to be limited by its skin permeability. Herein, we investigated the transcutaneous behavior of retinol in semisolid cosmetics, in both in vitro and in vivo experiments. In vitro experiments used the modified Franz diffusion cell combined with Raman spectroscopy. In in vivo experiments, the content of retinol in rat skin and plasma was detected with HPLC. Retinol in semisolid cosmetics was mainly concentrated in the stratum corneum in the skin of the three animal models tested, and in any case did not cross the skin barrier after a 24 h dermatologic topical treatment in Franz diffusion cells tests. Similar results were obtained in live mice and rats, where retinol did not cross the skin barrier and did not enter the blood circulation. Raman spectroscopy was used to test the penetration depth of retinol in skin, which reached 16 μm out of 34 μm in pig skin, whereas the skin of mouse and rat showed too strong bakground interference. To explore epidermal transport mechanism and intradermal residence, skin transcriptomics was performed in rats, which identified 126 genes upregulated related to retinol transport and metabolism, relevant to the search terms "retinoid metabolic process" and "transporter activity". The identity of these upregulated genes suggests that the mechanism of retinol action is linked to epidermis, skin, tissue and epithelium development.

A Comprehensive Analytical Approach for Quality Control of Collagen in Food Supplements

Collagen is a popular nutricosmetic ingredient in food supplements due to its anti-aging and other positive effects on the skin. Due to its widespread use and the lack of regulation in this area, appropriate quality control is required to ensure efficacy and safety, with the development of analytical methods playing an important role. Currently, the quantitative determination of collagen is mainly based on time-consuming derivatization-based spectroscopic methods or on complex chromatographic methods with mass spectrometric detection. Therefore, in this study, two new, simple chromatographic methods have been developed. One is intended for the analysis of untreated samples and is characterized by the speed and simplicity of sample preparation. The other method quantifies collagen via the underivatized tripeptide Gly-Pro-Hyp formed by bacterial collagenase hydrolysis and is characterized by its specificity and ability to distinguish between marine and terrestrial collagen. The latter is a novelty in the field of simple methods for collagen analysis and is particularly important in terms of safety. Our comparison with established analytical methods (e.g., via hydroxyproline after complete hydrolysis) for collagen analysis undoubtedly showed the superiority of these new methods for the routine quality control of collagen supplements in terms of specificity, repeatability, sample stability, and simplification in sample preparation. The collagen content in the supplements tested was found to be adequate; however, some discrepancies were found regarding the labeling and origin of the collagen, with possible safety implications.

Spectral and mass characterization of kinetic conversion from retinoids to retinoic acid in an in vitro 3-D human skin equivalent model

To investigate the effect of retinoids, such as retinol (ROL), retinal (RAL), and retinyl palmitate (RP), on epidermal integrity, skin deposition, and bioconversion to retinoic acid (RA). 3-D human skin equivalent model (EpiDermFT™) was used. Epidermal cellular integrity measured by TEER values was significantly higher for a topical treatment of ROL and RAL than RP (p < 0.05). The skin deposition (μM) of ROL and RAL was approximately 269.54 ± 73.94 and 211.35 ± 20.96, respectively, greater than that of RP (63.70 ± 37.97) over 2 h incubation. Spectral changes were revealed that the CO maximum absorbance occurred between 1600∼1800 cm-1 and was greater from ROL than that from RAL and RP, indicating conjugation of R-OH to R-CHO or R-COOH could strongly occur after ROL treatment. Subsequently, a metabolite from the bioconversion of ROL and RAL was identified as RA, which has a product ion of m/z 283.06, by using liquid a chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) - total ion chromatogram (TIC). The amount of bioconversion from ROL and RAL to RA in artificial skin was 0.68 ± 0.13 and 0.70 ± 0.10 μM at 2 h and 0.60 ± 0.04 and 0.57 ± 0.06 μM at 24 h, respectively. RA was not detected in the skin and the receiver compartment after RP treatment. ROL could be a useful dermatological ingredient to maintain epidermal integrity more effectively, more stably deposit on the skin, and more steadily metabolize to RA than other retinoids such as RAL and RP.

Label-Free Quantification of Nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters in Cosmetic Hydrogels Using Raman Spectroscopy

Raman spectroscopy is a well-established technique for the molecular characterisation of samples and does not require extensive pre-analytical processing for complex cosmetic products. As an illustration of its potential, this study investigates the quantitative performance of Raman spectroscopy coupled with partial least squares regression (PLSR) for the analysis of Alginate nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters (ANC-PE) incorporated into a hydrogel. A total of 96 ANC-PE samples covering a 0.4% w/w-8.3% w/w PE concentration range have been prepared and analysed. Despite the complex formulation of the sample, the spectral features of the PE can be detected and used to quantify the concentrations. Using a leave-K-out cross-validation approach, samples were divided into a training set (n = 64) and a test set, samples that were previously unknown to the PLSR model (n = 32). The root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV) and prediction (RMSEP) was evaluated to be 0.142% (w/w PE) and 0.148% (w/w PE), respectively. The accuracy of the prediction model was further evaluated by the percent relative error calculated from the predicted concentration compared to the true value, yielding values of 3.58% for the training set and 3.67% for the test set. The outcome of the analysis demonstrated the analytical power of Raman to obtain label-free, non-destructive quantification of the active cosmetic ingredient, presently PE, in complex formulations, holding promise for future analytical quality control (AQC) applications in the cosmetics industry with rapid and consumable-free analysis.

Content and stability of B complex vitamins in commercial cosmetic products

BACKGROUND

Individual B vitamins have many favorable effects on the skin and are common cosmetic ingredients. However, their formulation is demanding due to stability issues, which consequently affect the products' quality.

AIMS

We aimed to determine the quality (labeling accuracy, content determination, and content-related quality control) and stability under long-term and accelerated storage conditions of a representative sample of commercial cosmetics containing the most common B vitamins - nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin.

METHODS

Cyanocobalamin was determined by a previously published stability-indicating HPLC- diode array detector (DAD) method for the simultaneous determination of all hydrophilic vitamins. This method was additionally simplified and adjusted for the time-effective analysis of nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, and pyridoxine. Both methods were properly validated.

RESULTS

All labeled B vitamins were present in the 36 tested products, mostly in contents, reported effective on the skin. Thus, a straightforward correlation between vitamin contents and product prices were not observed. The content-related quality control of eight products, which quantitively specify their content, revealed significantly lower nicotinamide contents (47% and 57%) in two products and appropriate or higher nicotinamide (102%-112%) and dexpanthenol (100%-104%) contents than declared in the remaining products. The 6-month long-term and accelerated stability studies demonstrated the products' physical stability, but also revealed dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin degradation, while nicotinamide was mostly stable in the tested products.

CONCLUSIONS

The obtained results provide an inside into the quality of commercial vitamin B cosmetics and highlight the importance of stability testing in the formulation of quality, efficient, and safe cosmetics.

Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol

BACKGROUND

Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study.

METHODS

For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly.

RESULTS

Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ² (1) = 23.97; p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

This study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.

Delivery and diffusion of retinal in dermis and epidermis through the combination of prodrug nanoparticles and detachable dissolvable microneedles

To minimize chemical degradation of retinal, we graft this aldehyde on chitosan chains to make them self-assemble into pro-retinal nanoparticles (PRNs), which we then load into detachable dissolvable microneedles (DDMNs) made of 1:1 (by weight) hyaluronic acid/maltose. The presence of PRNs in the hyaluronic acid-maltose needle matrix also helps improve the microneedles' mechanical strength. Ex vivo administration of PRN-loaded DDMNs on fresh porcine ear skin shows, as observed by stereomicroscopic and confocal fluorescence microscopic analyses of the cross-sectioned tissue pieces, complete deposition followed by dissolution of the needles and diffusion of the PRNs in epidermis and dermis. Rats administered with a single dose of PRN-loaded DDMNs show significantly increased epidermal thickness as compared to rats administered with control DDMNs (no PRN). Both the PRN-loaded DDMNs and the control DDMNs produce no skin irritation in rats.

Simultaneous Quantification of Vitamin A and Derivatives in Cosmetic Products by Liquid Chromatography with Ultraviolet Detection

Vitamin A (retinol) and some of its derivatives are a group of fat-soluble compounds used in cosmetic products as bioactive ingredients. Therefore, it is necessary to perform the quality control of final product to ensure their efficacy and safety. A simple and rapid method to determine retinol, retinal, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate in cosmetics is presented here. The method is based on vortex and/or ultrasound-assisted leaching of the analytes in ethanol followed by liquid chromatography with ultraviolet detection. The analytical performance of the method was evaluated. It has shown high levels of linearity, at least up to 100 µg mL−1; high precision with RSD values below 14% and high sensitivity with low MLODs ranging between 0.3 × 10−4 and 5.9 × 10−4 % w/w, which are enough to monitor these compounds in cosmetic products. The proposed method was successfully applied to seven commercial cosmetic samples to detect and quantify the target analytes, showing the method is suitable for its employment for quality control in cosmetic industries. Cosmetic samples were spiked at two levels of concentration and recovery values around 100% were obtained, showing no significant matrix effects and, therefore, external calibration was adequate for this determination.

Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations

Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings.

Theoretical Study of Retinol, Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid with Halloysite Clay Mineral as Active Ingredients for Topical Skin Care Formulations

The adsorption of retinol, niacinamide and glycolic acid active ingredients on the internal surface of halloysite in an aqueous environment was explored at the molecular level by means of calculations based on quantum mechanics and force fields from empirical interatomic potentials. These active ingredients are stably adsorbed on the internal surface of halloysite forming hydrogen bonds between the hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen atoms with the hydroxyl groups of the inner surface of the halloysite. In addition, electrostatic interaction between these active ingredients with the water molecules was observed. Therefore, the theoretical results indicate that the adsorption of these active principles is favourable in the halloysite nanotube, which allows directing future experimental investigations for the development and design of retinol, niacinamide and glycolic acid with halloysite nanotubes systems, which may be topical formulations for skincare.

Microbial Production of Bioactive Retinoic Acid Using Metabolically Engineered Escherichia coli

Microbial production of bioactive retinoids, including retinol and retinyl esters, has been successfully reported. Previously, there are no reports on the microbial biosynthesis of retinoic acid. Two genes (blh_SR and raldh_HS) encoding retinoic acid biosynthesis enzymes [β-carotene 15,15′-oxygenase (Blh) and retinaldehyde dehydrogenase2 (RALDH2)] were synthetically redesigned for modular expression. Co-expression of the blh_SR and raldh_HS genes on the plasmid system in an engineered β-carotene-producing Escherichia coli strain produced 0.59 ± 0.06 mg/L of retinoic acid after flask cultivation. Deletion of the ybbO gene encoding a promiscuous aldehyde reductase induced a 2.4-fold increase in retinoic acid production to 1.43 ± 0.06 mg/L. Engineering of the 5’-UTR sequence of the blh_SR and raldh_HS genes enhanced retinoic acid production to 3.46 ± 0.16 mg/L. A batch culture operated at 37 °C, pH 7.0, and 50% DO produced up to 8.20 ± 0.05 mg/L retinoic acid in a bioreactor. As the construction and culture of retinoic acid–producing bacterial strains are still at an early stage in the development, further optimization of the expression level of the retinoic acid pathway genes, protein engineering of Blh and RALDH2, and culture optimization should synergistically increase the current titer of retinoic acid in E. coli.

Quality Control of Vitamins A and E and Coenzyme Q10 in Commercial Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Products

Vitamins A and E and coenzyme Q10 are common ingredients in anti-ageing cosmetic products. Within this study, we evaluated the quality of commercial cosmetics with vitamin A (35 products), vitamin E (49 products), and coenzyme Q10 (27 products) by using validated HPLC–UV methods. Vitamin A was determined as retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, β carotene, and hydroxypinacolone retinoate in concentrations ranging from 950 ng/g to 19 mg/g. Total vitamin A contents, expressed with retinol equivalents, ranged from 160 ng/g to 19 mg/g, and were above the maximum concentration recommended by the SCCS in six of the 35 tested cosmetics. The content-related quality control of 10 cosmetics with specified vitamin A content revealed significant deviations (between 0% and 400%) of the label claim. Vitamin E was determined as both tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate in concentrations between 8.5 µg/g and 16 mg/g. Coenzyme Q10 was determined as ubiquinone in 24 tested cosmetics, which labelled it, in concentrations between 4.2 µg/g and 100 µg/g. Labelling irregularities were observed in all three active compound groups, resulting in a significant share (42%) of improperly labelled cosmetic products. The results of this study reveal the need for stricter cosmetics regulation and highlight the importance of their quality control, especially by evaluating the contents of the active compounds, in their efficacy and safety assurance.