Mellody KT, Bradley EJ, Mambwe B, Cotterell L, Kiss O, Halai P, Loftus Z, Bell M, Griffiths TW, Griffiths CEM, Watson REB. Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol.
Int J Cosmet Sci 2022;
44:625-635. [PMID:
35778881 PMCID:
PMC9826105 DOI:
10.1111/ics.12799]
[Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/08/2022] [Revised: 06/21/2022] [Accepted: 06/28/2022] [Indexed: 01/11/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND
Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation.
OBJECTIVE
To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study.
METHODS
For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly.
RESULTS
Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ2 (1) = 23.97; p < 0.001).
CONCLUSIONS
This study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.
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