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Wu F, Dang B, Hu L, Zhu S, Liu Z, Cao X, Li Z, Wang C, Lin C. Lycium barbarum polysaccharide inhibits blue-light-induced skin oxidative damage with the involvement of mitophagy. Photochem Photobiol 2024; 100:604-621. [PMID: 37814779 DOI: 10.1111/php.13863] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/25/2023] [Revised: 09/21/2023] [Accepted: 09/24/2023] [Indexed: 10/11/2023]
Abstract
Although blue light can damage the skin to a certain extent, the pathogenesis of its damage remains still unclear. The available evidence suggests that oxidative stress may be the main cause of its damage. Lycium barbarum polysaccharide (LBP) has antioxidative effects in a variety of cells. In this paper, we investigated the protective role of LBP and its mechanism of action related to mitophagy in blue-light-damaged skin cells. The findings indicated that in HaCaT cells and mouse skin, LBP pretreatment was effective in reducing blue-light-induced apoptosis and ameliorating the elevated level of cellular autophagy/mitophagy caused by excessive blue light exposure. The markers reactive oxygen species (ROS), superoxide dismutase (SOD), and malondialdehyde (MDA) were used to assess oxidative stress. LBP could effectively inhibit blue-light-induced oxidative stress. It was also found that blue light exposure caused mitochondrial dysfunction in HaCaT cells, including increased intracellular calcium ion levels and decreased mitochondrial membrane potential. LBP pretreatment significantly relieved mitochondrial dysfunction in HaCaT cells. These findings imply that LBP pretreatment protects skin cells from damage induced by blue light irradiation and that mitophagy may be a significant factor in skin photodamage.
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Affiliation(s)
- Fen Wu
- School of Life Sciences, Lanzhou University, Lanzhou, China
| | - Bingrong Dang
- Institute of Modern Physics, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Lanzhou, China
| | - Liming Hu
- School of Life Sciences, Lanzhou University, Lanzhou, China
| | - Sen Zhu
- School of Life Sciences, Lanzhou University, Lanzhou, China
| | - Zuohao Liu
- School of Life Sciences, Lanzhou University, Lanzhou, China
| | - Xinhui Cao
- School of Life Sciences, Lanzhou University, Lanzhou, China
| | - Zhen Li
- School of Life Sciences, Lanzhou University, Lanzhou, China
| | - Chunming Wang
- School of Life Sciences, Lanzhou University, Lanzhou, China
| | - Changjun Lin
- School of Life Sciences, Lanzhou University, Lanzhou, China
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Grimes PE, Nelson DB. Evaluation of an advanced antioxidant and double-conjugated retinoid/AHA cream in participants with FST IV-V. J Cosmet Dermatol 2024. [PMID: 38406974 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16246] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/06/2023] [Revised: 02/05/2024] [Accepted: 02/09/2024] [Indexed: 02/27/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Topical antioxidants and retinoids are foundational components of an effective skincare regimen. Pyrroloquinoline quinone (PQQ) is a potent free radical scavenger that supports efficient mitochondrial energy creation. An advanced antioxidant combines topical allyl PQQ with existing WEL antioxidant technology (TAP) to comprehensively address extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging. In conjunction with TAP, a double-conjugated retinoid/alpha hydroxy acid (AHA-Ret) designed to minimize irritation and optimize delivery was used over 12 weeks to improve the appearance of photodamaged skin. PATIENTS/METHODS Twice-daily application of TAP and nightly application of AHA-Ret was evaluated in female participants aged 40-65 years with FST IV-V and mild (3) to moderate (6) facial photodamage using a 10-point grading scale. Visible improvements from baseline in lines/wrinkles, skin texture, skin tone, skin dullness and erythema were assessed using a six-point grading scale (0 = None to 5 = Severe). Adverse Events (AEs) were captured throughout the study period. RESULTS Participants (N = 21; mean age, 56 years) equally represented mild and moderate photodamage, and FST IV and V (41%, Hispanic; 36%, African American; and 32%, Caucasian). Significant mean improvements from baseline occurred in skin dullness, skin texture, and skin tone (all, p < 0.0001), and significant mean reductions from baseline were demonstrated in erythema and melanin at Week 12. Mild, transient AEs were reported. No participant discontinued study participation due to an AE. CONCLUSIONS A skincare regimen comprised of an advanced antioxidant and AHA-Ret cream, in conjunction with daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 56), led to significant improvements at 12 weeks in the appearance of photodamaged skin in females with FST IV and V.
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Affiliation(s)
- Pearl E Grimes
- Grimes Center of Medical and Aesthetic Dermatology, Vitiligo & Pigmentation Institute of Southern California, Los Angeles, California, USA
| | - Diane B Nelson
- Clinical, Medical & Scientific Affairs, skinbetter science, a Dermatological Beauty brand of L'Oréal USA, Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Bocheva G, Slominski RM, Slominski AT. Environmental Air Pollutants Affecting Skin Functions with Systemic Implications. Int J Mol Sci 2023; 24:10502. [PMID: 37445680 PMCID: PMC10341863 DOI: 10.3390/ijms241310502] [Citation(s) in RCA: 18] [Impact Index Per Article: 9.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/10/2023] [Revised: 06/09/2023] [Accepted: 06/20/2023] [Indexed: 07/15/2023] Open
Abstract
The increase in air pollution worldwide represents an environmental risk factor that has global implications for the health of humans worldwide. The skin of billions of people is exposed to a mixture of harmful air pollutants, which can affect its physiology and are responsible for cutaneous damage. Some polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons are photoreactive and could be activated by ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Therefore, such UVR exposure would enhance their deleterious effects on the skin. Air pollution also affects vitamin D synthesis by reducing UVB radiation, which is essential for the production of vitamin D3, tachysterol, and lumisterol derivatives. Ambient air pollutants, photopollution, blue-light pollution, and cigarette smoke compromise cutaneous structural integrity, can interact with human skin microbiota, and trigger or exacerbate a range of skin diseases through various mechanisms. Generally, air pollution elicits an oxidative stress response on the skin that can activate the inflammatory responses. The aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) can act as a sensor for small molecules such as air pollutants and plays a crucial role in responses to (photo)pollution. On the other hand, targeting AhR/Nrf2 is emerging as a novel treatment option for air pollutants that induce or exacerbate inflammatory skin diseases. Therefore, AhR with downstream regulatory pathways would represent a crucial signaling system regulating the skin phenotype in a Yin and Yang fashion defined by the chemical nature of the activating factor and the cellular and tissue context.
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Affiliation(s)
- Georgeta Bocheva
- Department of Pharmacology and Toxicology, Medical University of Sofia, 1431 Sofia, Bulgaria;
| | - Radomir M. Slominski
- Department of Genetics, Informatics Institute in the School of Medicine, University of Alabama at Birmingham, Birmingham, AL 35294, USA;
| | - Andrzej T. Slominski
- Department of Dermatology, Cancer Chemoprevention Program, Comprehensive Cancer Center, University of Alabama at Birmingham, Birmingham, AL 35294, USA
- Veteran Administration Medical Center, Birmingham, AL 35294, USA
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De Tollenaere M, Chapuis E, Martinez J, Paulus C, Dupont J, Don Simoni E, Robe P, Sennelier-Portet B, Auriol D, Scandolera A, Reynaud R. Gardenia jasminoides Extract, with a Melatonin-like Activity, Protects against Digital Stress and Reverses Signs of Aging. Int J Mol Sci 2023; 24:ijms24054948. [PMID: 36902379 PMCID: PMC10003113 DOI: 10.3390/ijms24054948] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/18/2023] [Revised: 02/24/2023] [Accepted: 02/28/2023] [Indexed: 03/08/2023] Open
Abstract
Digital stress is a newly identified cosmetic stress that is mainly characterized by blue light exposure. The effects of this stress have become increasingly important with the emergence of personal digital devices, and its deleterious effects on the body are now well-known. Blue light has been observed to cause perturbation of the natural melatonin cycle and skin damage similar to that from UVA exposure, thus leading to premature aging. "A melatonin-like ingredient" was discovered in the extract of Gardenia jasminoides, which acts as a filter against blue light and as a melatonin-like ingredient to prevent and stop premature aging. The extract showed significant protective effects on the mitochondrial network of primary fibroblasts, a significant decrease of -86% in oxidized proteins on skin explants, and preservation of the natural melatonin cycle in the co-cultures of sensory neurons and keratinocytes. Upon analysis using in silico methods, only the crocetin form, released through skin microbiota activation, was found to act as a melatonin-like molecule by interacting with the MT1-receptor, thus confirming its melatonin-like properties. Finally, clinical studies revealed a significant decrease in wrinkle number of -21% in comparison to the placebo. The extract showed strong protection against blue light damage and the prevention of premature aging through its melatonin-like properties.
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Affiliation(s)
- Morgane De Tollenaere
- R&D Department, Givaudan France SAS, Route de Bazancourt, 51110 Pomacle, France
- Correspondence: (M.D.T.); (A.S.)
| | - Emilie Chapuis
- R&D Department, Givaudan France SAS, Route de Bazancourt, 51110 Pomacle, France
| | - Jessy Martinez
- R&D Department, Naturex France Avignon (Givaudan), 250 Rue Pierre Bayle, 84140 Avignon, France
| | - Chantal Paulus
- R&D Department, Givaudan France SAS, Bâtiment Canal Biotech 1, 3 Rue des Satellites, 31400 Toulouse, France
| | - Joran Dupont
- R&D Department, Givaudan France SAS, Bâtiment Canal Biotech 1, 3 Rue des Satellites, 31400 Toulouse, France
| | - Eglantine Don Simoni
- R&D Department, Givaudan France SAS, Bâtiment Canal Biotech 1, 3 Rue des Satellites, 31400 Toulouse, France
| | - Patrick Robe
- R&D Department, Givaudan France SAS, Bâtiment Canal Biotech 1, 3 Rue des Satellites, 31400 Toulouse, France
| | | | - Daniel Auriol
- R&D Department, Givaudan France SAS, Bâtiment Canal Biotech 1, 3 Rue des Satellites, 31400 Toulouse, France
| | - Amandine Scandolera
- R&D Department, Givaudan France SAS, Route de Bazancourt, 51110 Pomacle, France
- Correspondence: (M.D.T.); (A.S.)
| | - Romain Reynaud
- R&D Department, Givaudan France SAS, Bâtiment Canal Biotech 1, 3 Rue des Satellites, 31400 Toulouse, France
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Low-Molecular-Weight Gels as Smart Materials for the Enhancement of Antioxidants Activity. COSMETICS 2023. [DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10020038] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 02/24/2023] Open
Abstract
Antioxidants are important substances used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields that are able to block free radicals. These compounds can be incorporated into formulations for many reasons, such as release over time or preservation of the formulation activity and applicability. In the present study, a low-molecular-weight gel made with Boc-L-DOPA(Bn)2-OH was studied as suitable material to host antioxidants and improve their activity. The solvent change (DMSO/H2O) in combination with temperature was the technological procedure for the preparation of the gel. Two different antioxidants were tested: (1) α-tocopherol and (2) postbiotics. The antioxidant activity of α-tocopherol and of the postbiotics in the gel, measured by the (2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl radical (DPPH) assay, showed higher values than those in the pure solvent. The antioxidant activity of the gel with 0.8 w/v% of gelator and α-tocopherol in the concentration range of 5–100 µM was 2.7–1.1 times higher on average than in the pure solvent. In the case of both postbiotics, the biggest difference was observed at 30% of postbiotics in the gel with 0.5% of a gelator, when the antioxidant activity was 4.4 to 4.7 times higher than that in the pure solvent.
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Antioxidant and Anti‐Pollution Effect of Naturally Occurring Carotenoids Astaxanthin and Crocin for Human Skin Protection. ChemistrySelect 2022. [DOI: 10.1002/slct.202201595] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/07/2022]
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Clinical Evaluation of Indian Sandalwood Oil and Its Protective Effect on the Skin against the Detrimental Effect of Exposome. COSMETICS 2022. [DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics9020035] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 02/01/2023] Open
Abstract
The skin is constantly subject to external stressors (the exposome), including particulate matter and blue light. These can penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, inducing the release of free radicals and triggering an inflammatory cascade of events contributing to cutaneous aging and exacerbating inflammatory skin conditions. This study demonstrates the clinical efficacy of Indian sandalwood oil of varying concentrations against oxidative stress induced by urban dust and blue light. Twenty-two healthy human subjects entered and completed the study of 11 days. Test products containing 0.1%, 1% and 10% of sandalwood oil, as well as a placebo and a comparator control (α-tocopherol), were applied on the different investigational zones of the upper back of each subject. Exposure ensued on day 7, using a controlled pollution exposure system (CPES) and blue light at a wavelength of 412 nm. Sebum was sampled on each investigational zone following the last exposure. The level of squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH) was the primary endpoint. A dose-dependent decrease in SQOOH on the zones treated with 10%, 1% and 0.1% of the sandalwood oil formulation compared to the untreated zones was observed. The zone treated with the 10% sandalwood-containing formula demonstrated the highest protective efficacy with the lowest amount of SQOOH. Increasing the concentration of the sandalwood oil increased its protective antioxidant activity. The results collected from this intraindividual comparative is the first clinical trial to suggest that sandalwood oil at a concentration between 1% and 10% protects the skin against the oxidative stress induced by urban dust and blue light exposure.
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Sikora BC, Wortzman M, Nelson DB, Dover JS. A pilot study evaluating the efficacy and tolerability of a comprehensive, hydrating topical antioxidant developed specifically for men. J Cosmet Dermatol 2021; 20:2816-2823. [PMID: 34189833 PMCID: PMC8457217 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14314] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/11/2021] [Revised: 04/30/2021] [Accepted: 06/07/2021] [Indexed: 12/02/2022]
Abstract
Introduction There is growing interest in skincare products designed for men. This pilot study evaluated the efficacy and tolerability of a comprehensive antioxidant product in men. Methods This 12‐week study evaluated improvements from baseline in erythema, lines/wrinkles, skin tone, texture, brightness, dryness/flaking and pores (6‐point scale), global improvements (5‐point scale), and sebum levels following daily application in males with mild to moderate photodamaged skin. Subject self‐assessments and adverse events (AEs) were captured. Results Twenty‐two subjects completed the study. Early mean percent improvements from baseline were demonstrated in all categories at week 4 with visible improvements in skin tone (29%; p = .0001) and pores (28%; p < .0001). Reductions in skin surface sebum levels (forehead region) from baseline were demonstrated at 8 (p < .0001) and 12 (p < .0003) weeks. Ninety‐six percent of subjects reported overall visible improvement of their skin and that the study product calmed/soothed skin, reducing redness and irritation after shaving. One subject reported mild dryness. Conclusion Once daily application of a comprehensive topical antioxidant designed for men led to significant improvements in skin appearance, substantial reductions in skin surface sebum levels, and was well tolerated with a high level of subject satisfaction over 12 weeks.
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Wortzman M, Nelson DB. A comprehensive topical antioxidant inhibits oxidative stress induced by blue light exposure and cigarette smoke in human skin tissue. J Cosmet Dermatol 2021; 20:1160-1165. [PMID: 33560573 PMCID: PMC8248093 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13991] [Citation(s) in RCA: 9] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/15/2021] [Accepted: 01/29/2021] [Indexed: 12/19/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE Skin damage from visible light predominantly results from exposure to the blue light spectrum (400-500 nm) which generates Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) causing a cascade of harmful effects to skin. Topical antioxidants reduce the effects of free radical damage caused by environmental exposures. This study evaluated a comprehensive topical antioxidant's ability to inhibit ROS production induced by blue light and cigarette smoke (CS) in human skin. METHODS Two experiments were conducted utilizing human skin (Fitzpatrick Skin Types III and V; N = 3, each). After confirmed reactivity of untreated tissues at 412 nm, 20J/cm2 , untreated and pretreated (WEL-DS, 2 mg/cm2 ) skin tissue was exposed to blue light and blue light plus CS and left overnight. A nonfluorescent probe (DCFH-DA) was added to skin and exposed to blue light (412 nm, 20J/cm2 ) and blue light plus CS. Fluorescent 2',7'-DCF was generated upon enzymatic reduction and subsequent oxidation by ROS. RESULTS ROS increased at least tenfold following initial exposure to blue light and blue light plus CS in untreated skin. Pretreatment with WEL-DS decreased ROS in FST III exposed to blue light by 51% and 46% in skin exposed to blue light plus CS vs. untreated skin (both, P < .001). In FST V, pretreatment with WEL-DS decreased ROS exposed to blue light by 54% (P < .001) and 50% in skin exposed to blue light plus CS vs. untreated skin (P < .0001). CONCLUSION WEL-DS demonstrated significant reduction in ROS induced by blue light and blue light in combination with CS compared with untreated, exposed skin.
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