Ethnic differences in objective and subjective skin irritation response: an international study

Mitigation of retinol-induced skin irritation by physiologic lipids: Evidence from patch testing

BACKGROUND

There is a dearth of effective treatments to counter retinol-induced skin irritation.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to investigate the efficacy of three potential mitigants: (i) phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate (PLG), (ii) a physiologic lipid mixture (PLM) comprised of ceramide three and cholesterol, and (iii) niacinamide, in ameliorating irritation instigated by retinol.

METHODS

An occlusive human patch test, spanning 5 days, was undertaken on 18 Chinese participants aged between 23 and 40. It was designed as a randomized, double-blind, and vehicle-controlled study. Clinician erythema assessment (CEA) and instrumental evaluations were employed pre and post-test. Subsequently, a 4-week consumer in-use test, randomized and double-blind in nature, was executed to substantiate the soothing effects of PLG.

RESULTS

Data from CEA and bioengineering assessments revealed that, in comparison to the vehicle control, both 2% PLG and 5% PLM notably curbed retinol-induced skin erythema and inflammation. Notably, PLG outperformed PLM. Conversely, 3% niacinamide did not offer relief against retinol-induced discomfort. The subsequent consumer in-use test affirmed that treatments with 2% PLG were better tolerated than those with the vehicle alone.

CONCLUSION

To the best of our knowledge, this study represents the first confirmation that physiologic lipids effectively mitigate retinol-induced irritation. Given their capacity to counter retinol-induced irritation, physiologic lipids, particularly PLG, are recommended for incorporation in retinol regimens. Additionally, the Visia-CR a* value can serve as a robust objective measure for interpreting patch test outcomes.

Lactic Acid Chemical Peeling in Skin Disorders

Lactic acid is the most widely occurring natural organic acid in nature. It not only exhibits mild and safe properties but also possesses multiple physiological activities, such as antibacterial effects, immune regulation, and promotion of wound healing, making it one of the most popular chemical peeling agents. Chemical peels are commonly used in the field of aesthetic dermatology as a non-invasive therapeutic approach. This research aims to provide valuable references for clinical dermatologists by summarizing the characteristics of lactic acid, elucidating its mechanism of action in peeling, and investigating the clinical applications of this compound. Furthermore, it anticipates the potential for lactic acid to be the most suitable chemical peeling agent for Chinese skin.

Improvement of mild photoaged facial skin in middle-aged Chinese females by a supramolecular retinol plus acetyl hexapeptide-1 containing essence

Background

The anti-ageing gold standard, retinol, has been widely recognized for its anti-wrinkle benefits in the Chinese population. Studies have shown that Asians are more sensitive to retinol compared to their Caucasian counterparts, and it is generally recommended to use retinol once a day in the evening. However, there are few reports on the most appropriate concentration and frequency of retinol use in the general Chinese population.

Objectives

In this study, supramolecular retinol was prepared using cyclodextrin encapsulation technology, and the most appropriate concentration for the general Chinese population was investigated. Then, a cosmetic essence was developed by combining the classic supramolecular retinol, which promotes collagen regeneration, with acetyl hexapeptide-1, a popular ingredient known for reducing expression lines. The safety and efficacy of this cosmetic essence were studied through clinical tests.

Methods

First, a patch test was conducted on 32 healthy Chinese subjects to compare the tolerance of supramolecular retinol to non-encapsulated retinol and to select the optimal concentration of retinol. Then, an 8-week clinical study was conducted using a twice-daily cosmetic essence containing 0.1% supramolecular retinol and 0.02% acetyl hexapeptide-1 to treat mild photoaging in 32 middle-aged Chinese women. Dermatological evaluations and instrument measurements were taken at baseline, 4 weeks, and 8 weeks. Efficacy was assessed using facial skin wrinkles, textures, elasticity, firmness, pores, gloss and stratum corneum hydration. Tolerability was assessed throughout the study.

Results

Our patch test results showed that supramolecular retinol was better tolerated than non-encapsulated retinol, and our findings suggest that 0.1% was the approximate optimal retinol concentration for the general Chinese population. The cosmetic essence studied was effective in improving the appearance of photoaged skin in the Chinese population in all aspects studied and was well tolerated.

Conclusions

0.1% retinol is suitable for twice daily use in the general Chinese population. Data and records on efficacy dimensions of skin textures, elasticity, firmness, pores, gloss and stratum corneum hydration for retinol in the Chinese population are supplemented with our study. Cosmeceutical approaches targeting both static and dynamic wrinkles are of value for treating the photoaged Chinese population.

Clinical studies in Chinese subjects investigating the tolerance and soothing efficacy of a cream and balm containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol on the sensitivity of facial skin

INTRODUCTION

Asian subjects are particularly prone to skin sensitivity. We developed a facial cream and balm containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol to provide skin comfort and a soothing effect for sensitive skin.

OBJECTIVES

Assess the dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance and efficacy in improving skin sensitivity of face cream and balm under normal conditions of use by a population known to be particularly prone to this problem.

METHODS

In a monocentric non-randomized open trial, the cream or balm was applied twice daily to the face, neck, and eye contour of 33 stinger subjects with hypersensitive skin (22-63 years old). Assessments included dermatological and ophthalmological physical and functional signs on Day 1 (D1), D8, and D22, and cosmetic acceptability, cutaneous sensitivity according to a stinging test and the sensitive scale, and the soothing efficacy according to a questionnaire on D22.

RESULTS

The cream and balm were very well tolerated. Immediately after application, subjects reported a reduction in the skin's hypersensitivity (93.9% of subjects for the cream and 81.8% for the balm), skin redness (90.9% of subjects for the cream and 87.9% for the balm), sensations of tightness (93.9% for the cream and 97.0% for the balm), and discomfort sensations (93.9% for the cream and 87.9% for the balm). After 21 days, the application of the cream and balm decreased the stinging scores by 65% and 41%, respectively, with 94% and 77% of subjects showing an improvement, respectively. The sensitivity scale questionnaire indicated that the cream and balm significantly and profoundly decreased all negative signs, for example, irritability, stinging, general discomfort, redness, and dryness on D22 compared to D1. On D22, all 15 parameters recorded were improved by 89%-100% by the cream and by 74%-100% by the balm. The majority (90.9% and 96.8% of subjects using the cream and balm, respectively) of the subjects noticed positive changes in their skin condition after using the product for 21 days.

CONCLUSIONS

The cream and balm were very well-tolerated. This study demonstrated that both products controlled and markedly reduced skin hypersensitivity in Asian subjects, with an immediate and lasting skin soothing and repairing effect over 21 days.

Irritant Contact Dermatitis — a Review

Purpose of Review

Recent Findings

Summary

Can Performance and Gentleness Be Reconciled? A Skin Care Approach for Sensitive Skin

People with self-reported sensitive skin may reluctantly use performing anti-ageing skin care products as it could elicit skin discomfort. We thus aimed to design and test an anti-ageing skin care routine that is suitable for people reporting sensitive skin. Key principles for developing products for sensitive skin were applied and formulas were screened for their mildness in vitro using the Reconstructed Human Epidermis ET50 method. Anti-ageing efficacy and mildness was evaluated during a clinical study in China, with 33 female volunteers aged 40–65 years, with sensitive skin. The anti-ageing benefits were measured using Primos 3D, the cutometer and clinical evaluation. Hallmarks for sensitive skin such as skin hydration, skin barrier, skin redness and response to lactic acid were also measured. The ET50 method yielded values suggesting moderate to mild expected irritancy effect in vivo for most of them, and non-irritating effect for the serum. During the clinical study, no physical or functional signs of discomfort were reported with twice-daily usage of the routine. Instrumental evaluation of Wrinkle depth, skin elasticity/firmness, skin hydration, skin barrier and skin redness revealed improvement at 4 and 8 weeks. Clinical evaluation evidenced skin smoothness, skin suppleness and radiance improvements. The skin was less reactive to lactic acid stimuli, while the sensitive skin burden was lowered according to the dermatological quality of life index. Lastly, a separate investigation suggested the potential relief aspect of such routines to alleviate discomforts from mask wearing. With the right formulation design, the benefits of layering products from a routine can be made accessible to people with sensitive skin while simultaneously alleviating the burden of sensitive skin.

Biophysical properties of redness-prone skin in Korean women

BACKGROUND

Facial skin redness can have a negative impact on the quality of life. In this study, we investigated the skin biophysical parameters associated with facial skin redness as a function of aging.

METHODS

Our aims were as follows: (1) to understand the impact of non-pathological facial skin redness on the quality of life of Korean women through a survey; and (2) compare skin biophysical properties between women with and without facial skin redness.

RESULTS

Women aged between 20 and 39 years perceived their own facial skin redness at a higher rate than those aged ≥40 years. In addition, in redness-prone women, the intensity of skin redness and skin surface perfusion were higher, while skin hydration was lower regardless of age. In redness-prone women aged ≥40 years, the values for transepidermal water loss, elasticity, and skin thickness were lower, and the mean pore depth was greater. Facial redness intensity was higher, and the distribution was wider in redness-prone younger women, while only redness intensity increased in the older age group.

CONCLUSIONS

Overall, redness-prone women aged ≥40 years had weaker skin properties. Our study indicated the age-related biophysical characteristics of non-pathological facial skin redness. We believe that our findings will help improve its negative effects.

Effect of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) Applied as a Patch on Human Skin Physiology and Its Microbiota

In this study, we assessed the change in skin microbiota composition, relative abundance, and diversity with skin physiology disruption induced by SLS patch. Healthy women declaring to have a reactive skin were submitted to a 0.5% aqueous sodium lauryl sulfate solution application under occlusive patch condition for 24 h. Skin properties were characterized by tewametry, corneometry, and colorimetry and bacterial diversity was assessed by 16S rRNA sequencing. Analysis before and one day after SLS patch removal revealed an increase of skin redness and a decrease of stratum corneum hydration and skin barrier function. The relative abundance of taxa containing potential pathogens increase (Firmicutes: Staphylococcaceae; Proteobacteria: Enterobacteriaceae, Pantoea) while some of the most occurring Actinobacteria with valuable skin protection and repair capacities decreased (Micrococcus, Kocuria, and Corynebacterium). We observed an impaired skin barrier function and dehydration induced by SLS patch disturb the subtle balance of skin microbiota towards skin bacterial community dysbiosis. This study provides new insights on the skin bacterial composition and skin physiology simultaneously impaired by a SLS patch.

A new method for skin aging evaluation of Chinese women

BACKGROUND

With the development of cosmetic industry in China, an aging evaluation method of Chinese women is in great need.

AIMS

The aim of this study is to establish a skin aging assessment method using convenient portable machine Antera 3D.

METHODS

The quantitative approach was developed by capturing 11 areas of the face, and overall, 48 parameters were extracted for aging evaluation. Later, 297 subjects were recruited to take facial image and life style questionnaire. Evaluation of age was accomplished by establishing prediction method with detected skin traits.

RESULTS

The age prediction model was built by using the evaluated facial traits, and a R square of 0.6 is achieved by comparing to the chronological age. The crow's feet, cheek skin pigmentation, forehead skin tone, and wrinkles around the month are critical factors in evaluating Chinese women skin aging. In addition, we also explored life styles associated with important skin aging traits.

CONCLUSION

The method developed in this research provides reliable alternative in aging study of Chinese women.

Prevalence and Severity of Dermatological Condition-Associated Skin Pain in the Chinese

BACKGROUND/AIM

Although the characteristics of cutaneous sensory symptoms in the general population have been documented, dermatological condition-associated skin pain has not been characterized yet. In the present study, we aimed to characterize dermatological condition-associated skin pain in the Chinese.

SUBJECTS AND METHODS

A questionnaire was given to outpatients to identify self-proclaimed skin pain at our dermatology clinic. The severity of skin pain was assessed using pain scale 0-10. Prevalence and pain severity were compared between males and females.

RESULTS

A total of 2144 patients, including 1254 females and 890 males aged 13-94 years, were included in this study. The overall prevalence of skin pain was 9.93% in this cohort. The prevalence of skin pain varied greatly with dermatological conditions (p<0.0001). Moreover, a higher prevalence of skin pain was observed in males than in females (p<0.05). Among the dermatological conditions reported, higher skin pain scales were found in subjects with either glucocorticoid-induced dermatitis (4.20 ± 0.73) or herpes zoster (4.00 ± 0.29). While the overall pain scales were comparable between males and females (2.38 ± 0.13 versus 2.68 ± 0.13), pain scales in patients with eczematous dermatitis were higher in females than in males (p<0.05). Furthermore, pain scales correlated positively with age. However, pain scales did not differ between subjects with versus without a family history of cutaneous sensory symptoms. These results demonstrate that the prevalence and severity of dermatological condition-associated skin pain vary with dermatological conditions and gender in the Chinese.

CONCLUSION

Patients with some dermatological conditions may experience skin pain. Although the pain is moderate, it can negatively impact the quality of patients' lives. Alleviation of skin pain should be considered when treating patients with certain dermatological conditions.

Transcriptional profiling of lactic acid treated reconstructed human epidermis reveals pathways underlying stinging and itch

The incidence of sensitive skin with stinging and itch following chemical exposure in products such as cosmetics is increasing, but molecular mechanisms underlying this pathophysiology remain understudied. Here we performed transcriptional analysis of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) 1, 6, and 24 h following topical lactic acid (LA) application, a known inducer of the sensitive skin reaction. Since little is known about the specific role of keratinocyte transcriptional changes in mediating stinging and itch, we performed pathway analysis using several publically available databases and then focused on significantly changed transcripts involved in stress responses and itch signaling using the Comparative Toxicogenomics Database. LA treatment induced damage-associated genes HSPA1A, DDIT3, IL1A, and HMGB2. Neurotrophic factors including BDNF, ARTN, PGE2, and chemokines were also upregulated. Stimulation of the RHE with 5% LA did not reduce cell viability, but reduced the trans-epidermal electric resistance, suggesting barrier dysfunction. Accordingly, skin barrier formation genes such as filaggrins (FLG, FLG2) and corneodesmosin (CDSN) were downregulated. To our knowledge, this is the first study focusing on transcriptional changes underlying the stinging response of keratinocytes upon LA stimulation. While follow-up research is needed, this study provides new insight into the mechanisms underlying the sensitive skin reaction.

Skin Changes During Ageing

The skin provides the primary protection for the body against external injuries and is essential in the maintenance of general homeostasis. During ageing, resident cells become senescent and the extracellular matrix, mainly in the dermis, is progressively damaged affecting the normal organization of the skin and its capacity for repair. In parallel, extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet irradiation, pollution, and intrinsic factors such as diabetes or vascular disease can further accelerate this phenomenon. Indeed, numerous mechanisms are involved in age-induced degradation of the skin and these also relate to non-healing or chronic wounds in the elderly. In particular, the generation of reactive oxygen species seems to play a major role in age-related skin modifications. Certainly, targeting both the hormonal status of the skin or its surface nutrition can slow down age-induced degradation of the skin and improve healing of skin damage in the elderly. Skin care regimens that prevent radiation and pollution damage, and reinforce the skin surface and its microbiota are among the different approaches able to minimize the effects of ageing on the skin.

Pollution and acne: is there a link?

In recent years, the critical role that inflammation may play in the development and progression of acne has become increasingly recognized. The prevalence of acne is similar between Asian and Caucasian women, but Asian women have a higher prevalence of inflammatory acne. They also report their symptoms exacerbate during periods of high air pollution. The objective of this study was to review the current evidence that links air pollution to worsening of acne symptoms. Firstly, a group of five Asian and three European scientists with expertise in Dermatology reviewed the current literature and described current acne treatment practices in their countries. During this activity, they identified the need for further epidemiological and clinical research. Secondly, additional studies ensued which provided evidence that acne symptoms might exacerbate in regions of high ambient air pollution. Based on these findings, the authors suggest that people with acne should protect the natural barrier function of their skin with emollients and ultraviolet (UV)A/UVB protection.

A fundamental investigation into aspects of the physiology and biochemistry of the stratum corneum in subjects with sensitive skin

BACKGROUND

Sensitive skin is a poorly understood skin condition. Defects in stratum corneum (SC) barrier function and/or extrasensory neuronal networks in the epidermis are believed to be involved in the problem.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to unravel the relationships between bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and calpain-1 (C-1), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) levels, corneocyte maturation, transglutaminase (TG) and plasmin activities on the cheeks of subjects with sensitive skin.

METHODS

Forty-eight female Caucasian subjects, Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II-III, with self-perceived sensitive facial skin, were assessed and underwent a capsaicin reactivity test. Expert grading of skin condition was conducted as well as the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, SC cohesion and SC integrity. BH, C-1 and plasmin activities were measured as well as PCA levels, plasmin and TG activity. Differential Nile red and involucrin immunostaining was performed to assess corneocyte maturation and size.

RESULTS

About 52% of the subjects reacted to capsaicin. There were no significant differences between the capsaicin-sensitive and non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects with reference to skin grading, TEWL, skin capacitance and SC cohesion. PCA levels and BH activity were lowest in the capsaicin-sensitive panel (P < 0.05) and were correlated in non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects (r = 0.72). The activity of TG was significantly lower (48%) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects (P < 0.001) and their corneocytes were less mature and smaller (P ≤ 0.05). SC was estimated to be thinner (6.87 ± 0.28 vs. 8.68 ± 0.26 μm; P = 0.001) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects with a corresponding shorter SC path length (83.2 ± 4.4 μm and 113.1 ± 4.5 μm; P = 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

Despite the physiological similarities between the two groups of sensitive skin subjects, differences in their biochemistry were clearly evident. Lower levels of PCA, BH and TG activities together with a greater number of smaller and immature corneocytes indicate inferior SC maturation in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects. The reduced maturation of corneocytes and thinner SC likely contributes to a greater penetration of capsaicin and the associated increased skin sensitivity.