In vivo multiphoton imaging for non-invasive time course assessment of retinoids effects on human skin

2-Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine prevents UV-induced skin darkening and delayed tanning in healthy subjects: A randomized controlled clinical study

BACKGROUND

Chronic nonextreme sun exposure induces two mechanisms of skin pigmentation, causing immediate darkening and delayed tanning. A new molecule, 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG), has been shown in vitro to inhibit both immediate darkening and new melanin synthesis via covalent conjugation of the thiol group of 2-MNG to melanin precursors.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate 2-MNG in preventing both mechanisms in vivo.

METHODS

In a randomized, intra-individual and controlled study, 33 subjects with melanin-rich skin were exposed to UV daylight on designated areas on the back and treated with a cosmetic formula containing 0.5% or 1% 2-MNG alone or 0.5% 2-MNG in association with lipohydroxy acid (LHA, 0.3%) plus Mexoryl-SX (MSX, 1.5%). The respective vehicles were used as controls and 4-n-butyl-resorcinol (4-n-BR, 2.5%) as a positive reference.

RESULTS

2-MNG alone significantly reduced immediate darkening and inhibited new melanin production when compared with vehicle, with higher performance at 1% than at 0.5%. 2-MNG at 0.5% in association with LHA and MSX showed significantly higher performance than 2-MNG 0.5% alone. 2-MNG at 0.5% and 1% showed significantly better performance than 4-n-BR.

CONCLUSIONS

2-MNG inhibited both UV-induced skin pigmentation mechanisms in vivo. The association of 2-MNG with LHA plus MSX showed the highest efficacy on melanin-rich skin with pigmentation induced by UV exposure.

Retinoids in the treatment of photoageing: A histological study of topical retinoid efficacy in black skin

BACKGROUND

Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes that occur due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The 'gold standard' for the treatment of photoaged white skin is all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, cosmetic retinol (ROL) has also proven efficacious. Recent work has identified that black skin is susceptible to photoageing, characterized by disintegration of fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). However, the impact of topical retinoids for repair of black skin has not been well investigated.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the potential of retinoids to repair photoaged black skin.

METHODS

An exploratory intervention study was performed using an in vivo, short-term patch test protocol. Healthy but photoaged black volunteers (>45 years) were recruited to the study, and participant extensor forearms were occluded with either 0.025% ATRA (n = 6; 4-day application due to irritancy) or ROL (12-day treatment protocol for a cosmetic) at concentrations of 0.3% (n = 6) or 1% (n = 6). Punch biopsies from occluded but untreated control sites and retinoid-treated sites were processed for histological analyses of epidermal characteristics, melanin distribution and dermal remodelling.

RESULTS

Treatment with ATRA and ROL induced significant acanthosis (all p < 0.001) accompanied by a significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation (Ki67; all p < 0.01), dispersal of epidermal melanin and restoration of the FRMs at the DEJ (all p < 0.01), compared to untreated control.

CONCLUSIONS

This study confirms that topical ATRA has utility for the repair of photoaged black skin and that ROL induces comparable effects on epidermal and dermal remodelling, albeit over a longer timeframe. The effects of topical retinoids on black photoaged skin are similar to those reported for white photoaged skin and suggest conserved biology in relation to repair of UVR-induced damage. Further investigation of topical retinoid efficacy in daily use is warranted for black skin.

Skin dark spot mapping and evaluation of brightening product efficacy using Line-field Confocal Optical Coherence Tomography (LC-OCT)

BACKGROUND

Facial dark spots remain a significant challenge for the cosmetic industry, in terms of providing effective treatment. Using Line-field Confocal Optical Coherence Tomography (LC-OCT), we investigated the internal structural features of photo-aging spot areas and evaluated the efficacy of a skin-brightening cosmetic product.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Twenty-six Asian female volunteers, aged between 29 and 65 years, applied a cosmetic product on their entire face twice a day for 2 months. LC-OCT was used to evaluate the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) undulation and the volume density of melanin in the epidermis at D0 and D56. Skin brightening and redness were also assessed by photography (SkinCam).

RESULTS

Using LC-OCT technology, various microscopic dark spot morphologies, spanning from minimally deformed DEJ to complex DEJ patterns, were identified. Dark spots characterized by slight deformities in the DEJ were predominantly observed in the youngest age group, while older volunteers displayed a wavier pattern. Furthermore, a total of 44 spots were monitored to evaluate the brightening product efficacy. A statistically significant reduction in melanin volumetric density of 7.3% in the spots and 12.3% in their surrounding area was observed after 56 days of product application. In line with these results, an analysis of color parameters using SkinCam reveals a significant increase in brightening and decrease in redness in both pigmented spots and the surrounding skin following application.

CONCLUSIONS

LC-OCT proves to be a valuable tool for in-depth dark spots characterization and assessment of skin brightening products, enabling various applications in the field of dermatological sciences.

One-year longitudinal study of the stratum corneum proteome of retinol and all-trans-retinoic acid treated human skin: an orchestrated molecular event

Topically applied all-trans-retinoic acid (RA) is a gold-standard anti-aging molecule used in dermatology. As its cosmetic counterpart used in anti-aging, Retinol (ROL) is also a known metabolic precursor of RA. Despite this metabolic link, they haven't been compared exhaustively in vivo at a mechanistic level. Therefore, to highlight the effect of a topical application of both molecules on in vivo skin, we undertook a longitudinal 1-year study and performed an untargeted proteomic analysis to get a more holistic view on the underlying biological mechanisms of action. The generation of the temporal proteomics signatures of retinol and all-trans-retinoic acid reveals the impact of these molecules on biological functions related to the aging of skin. New biological functions impacted by retinoids were discovered: glycan metabolism and protein biosynthesis. In addition, the temporal analysis reveals highest modulations at early time points while the physical measures, such as epidermal thickening, was mostly observed at the latest time point, demonstrating a strong time lapse between molecular and morphological impacts. Finally, these global temporal signatures could be used to identify new cosmetic compounds of interest.

Multiphoton FLIM Analyses of Native and UVA-Modified Synthetic Melanins

To better understand the impact of solar light exposure on human skin, the chemical characterization of native melanins and their structural photo-modifications is of central interest. As the methods used today are invasive, we investigated the possibility of using multiphoton fluorescence lifetime (FLIM) imaging, along with phasor and bi-exponential fitting analyses, as a non-invasive alternative method for the chemical analysis of native and UVA-exposed melanins. We demonstrated that multiphoton FLIM allows the discrimination between native DHI, DHICA, Dopa eumelanins, pheomelanin, and mixed eu-/pheo-melanin polymers. We exposed melanin samples to high UVA doses to maximize their structural modifications. The UVA-induced oxidative, photo-degradation, and crosslinking changes were evidenced via an increase in fluorescence lifetimes along with a decrease in their relative contributions. Moreover, we introduced a new phasor parameter of a relative fraction of a UVA-modified species and provided evidence for its sensitivity in assessing the UVA effects. Globally, the fluorescence lifetime properties were modulated in a melanin-dependent and UVA dose-dependent manner, with the strongest modifications being observed for DHICA eumelanin and the weakest for pheomelanin. Multiphoton FLIM phasor and bi-exponential analyses hold promising perspectives for in vivo human skin mixed melanins characterization under UVA or other sunlight exposure conditions.

Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol

BACKGROUND

Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study.

METHODS

For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly.

RESULTS

Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ² (1) = 23.97; p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

This study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.

Combining the use of two non-invasive instruments to confirm that a formula can improve skin luminance while respecting constitutive melanogenesis

INTRODUCTION

Skin radiance products achieve perceivable benefits with different sort of mechanism of action.

AIMS

To use two non-invasive instrumental devices to evaluate the effectiveness of a cosmetic formula designed to improve skin reflectance while respecting skin integrity.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Subjects (N = 43) aged 18-50 years old had healthy skin of phototype V-VI and Individual Typology Angle between -10° and -50°. The treatment was applied twice weekly for 4 weeks on a delineated area of the back, and an adjacent area was left untreated. Instrumental and clinical scoring assessments of treated and untreated skin were performed at baseline and Day 26.

RESULTS

Between baseline and Day 26, reflectance (Delta L*) increased by 1.27 points and was considered as clinically relevant. Dermatologist clinical scoring of radiance significantly improved from 2.6 to 3.6 after 4 weeks of treatment and the Skin Color Chart Clarity level significantly decreased from a score of 15.5 to 14.3, representing a skin reflectance improvement. Conversely, the change between baseline and Day 26 in Mexameter Melanin Density was not clinically different for treated skin versus untreated skin (difference of 2.54). At Day 26, changes from baseline for Mexameter Melanin Density and Delta L* parameters appeared to be uncorrelated (r = -0.036).

CONCLUSIONS

This combination of two non-invasive devices can be useful to confirm that a product can modulate skin reflectance without modifying constitutive pigmentation. The formula tested in this study did not interfere with constitutive melanogenesis.

In vivo multiphoton multiparametric 3D quantification of human skin aging on forearm and face

Quantifying skin aging changes and characterizing its 3D structure and function in a non-invasive way is still a challenging area of research, constantly evolving with the development of imaging methods and image analysis tools. In vivo multiphoton imaging offers means to assess skin constituents in 3D, however prior skin aging studies mostly focused on 2D analyses of dermal fibers through their signals’ intensities or densities. In this work, we designed and implemented multiphoton multiparametric 3D quantification tools for in vivo human skin pigmentation and aging characterization. We first demonstrated that despite the limited field of view of the technic, investigation of 2 regions of interest (ROIs) per zone per volunteer is a good compromise in assessing 3D skin constituents in both epidermis and superficial dermis. We then characterized skin aging on different UV exposed areas—ventral and dorsal forearms, face. The three major facts of aging that are epidermal atrophy, the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) flattening and dermal elastosis can be non-invasively quantified and compared. Epidermal morphological changes occur late and were only objectified between extreme age groups. Melanin accumulation in suprabasal layers with age and chronic exposure on ventral and dorsal forearms is less known and appears earlier. Superficial dermal aging changes are mainly elastin density increase, with no obvious change in collagen density, reflected by SHGto2PEF ratio and SAAID index decrease and ImbrN index increase on all skin areas. Analysis of the z-dermal distribution of these parameters highlighted the 2nd 20 µm thickness normalized dermal sub-layer, that follows the DEJ shape, as exhibiting the highest aging differences. Moreover, the 3D ImbrN index allows refining the share of photoaging in global aging on face and the 3D SAAID index on forearm, which elastin or fibrillar collagens densities alone do not allow. Photoaging of the temple area evolves as a function of chronic exposure with a more pronounced increase in elastin density, also structurally modified from thin and straight elastic fibers in young volunteers to dense and compact pattern in older ones. More generally, multiphoton multiparametric 3D skin quantification offers rich spatial information of interest in assessing normal human skin condition and its pathological, external environment or product induced changes.

In vivo imaging with a fast large-area multiphoton exoscope (FLAME) captures the melanin distribution heterogeneity in human skin

Melanin plays a significant role in the regulation of epidermal homeostasis and photoprotection of human skin. The assessment of its epidermal distribution and overall content is of great interest due to its involvement in a wide range of physiological and pathological skin processes. Among several spectroscopic and optical imaging methods that have been reported for non-invasive quantification of melanin in human skin, the approach based on the detection of two-photon excited fluorescence lifetime distinguishes itself by enabling selective detection of melanin with sub-cellular resolution, thus facilitating its quantification while also resolving its depth-profile. A key limitation of prior studies on the melanin assessment based on this approach is their inability to account for the skin heterogeneity due to the reduced field of view of the images, which results in high dispersion of the measurement values. Pigmentation in both normal and pathological human skin is highly heterogeneous and its macroscopic quantification is critical for reliable measurements of the epidermal melanin distribution and for capturing melanin-related sensitive dynamic changes as a response to treatment. In this work, we employ a fast large-area multiphoton exoscope (FLAME), recently developed by our group for clinical skin imaging, that has the ability to evaluate the 3D distribution of epidermal melanin content in vivo macroscopically (millimeter scale) with microscopic resolution (sub-micron) and rapid acquisition rates (minutes). We demonstrate significant enhancement in the reliability of the melanin density and distribution measurements across Fitzpatrick skin types I to V by capturing the intra-subject pigmentation heterogeneity enabled by the large volumetric sampling. We also demonstrate the potential of this approach to provide consistent measurement results when imaging the same skin area at different times. These advances are critical for clinical and research applications related to monitoring pigment modulation as a response to therapies against pigmentary skin disorders, skin aging, as well as skin cancers.

Research Techniques Made Simple: Emerging Imaging Technologies for Noninvasive Optical Biopsy of Human Skin

Over the past few years, high-resolution optical imaging technologies such as optical coherence tomography (OCT), reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM), and multiphoton microscopy (MPM) have advanced significantly as new methodologies for clinical research and for real-time detection, diagnosis, and therapy monitoring of skin diseases. Implementation of these technologies into clinical research and practice requires clinicians to have an understanding of their capabilities, benefits, and limitations. This concise review provides insights on the application of OCT, RCM, and MPM for clinical skin imaging through images acquired in vivo from the same lesions. The presented data are limited to pigmented lesions and basal cell carcinoma.

In vivo melanin 3D quantification and z-epidermal distribution by multiphoton FLIM, phasor and Pseudo-FLIM analyses

Characterizing melanins in situ and determining their 3D z-epidermal distribution is paramount for understanding physiological/pathological processes of melanin neosynthesis, transfer, degradation or modulation with external UV exposure or cosmetic/pharmaceutical products. Multiphoton fluorescence intensity- and lifetime-based approaches have been shown to afford melanin detection, but how can one quantify melanin in vivo in 3D from multiphoton fluorescence lifetime (FLIM) data, especially since FLIM imaging requires long image acquisition times not compatible with 3D imaging in a clinical setup? We propose an approach combining (i) multiphoton FLIM, (ii) fast image acquisition times, and (iii) a melanin detection method called Pseudo-FLIM, based on slope analysis of autofluorescence intensity decays from temporally binned data. We compare Pseudo-FLIM to FLIM bi-exponential and phasor analyses of synthetic melanin, melanocytes/keratinocytes coculture and in vivo human skin. Using parameters of global 3D epidermal melanin density and z-epidermal distribution profile, we provide first insights into the in vivo knowledge of 3D melanin modulations with constitutive pigmentation versus ethnicity, with seasonality over 1 year and with topical application of retinoic acid or retinol on human skin. Applications of Pseudo-FLIM based melanin detection encompass physiological, pathological, or environmental factors-induced pigmentation modulations up to whitening, anti-photoaging, or photoprotection products evaluation.

In vivo multiphoton imaging for non-invasive time course assessment of retinoids effects on human skin

Background

In vivo multiphoton imaging and automatic 3D image processing tools provide quantitative information on human skin constituents. These multiphoton‐based tools allowed evidencing retinoids epidermal effects in the occlusive patch test protocol developed for antiaging products screening. This study aimed at investigating their relevance for non‐invasive, time course assessment of retinoids cutaneous effects under real‐life conditions for one year.

Materials and Methods

Thirty women, 55‐65 y, applied either retinol (RO 0.3%) or retinoic acid (RA 0.025%) on one forearm dorsal side versus a control product on the other forearm once a day for 1 year. In vivo multiphoton imaging was performed every three months, and biopsies were taken after 1 year. Epidermal thickness and dermal‐epidermal junction undulation were estimated in 3D with multiphoton and in 2D with histology, whereas global melanin density and its z‐epidermal distribution were estimated using 3D multiphoton image processing tools.

Results

Main results after one year were as follows: a) epidermal thickening with RO (+30%); b) slight increase in dermal‐epidermal junction undulation with RO; c) slight decrease in 3D melanin density with RA; d) limitation of the melanin ascent observed with seasonality and time within supra‐basal layers with both retinoids, using multiphoton 3D‐melanin z‐epidermal profile.

Conclusions

With a novel 3D descriptor of melanin z‐epidermal distribution, in vivo multiphoton imaging allows demonstrating that daily usage of retinoids counteracts aging by acting not only on epidermal morphology, but also on melanin that is shown to accumulate in the supra‐basal layers with time.