Spatio-temporal variability in accretion and erosion of coastal foredunes in the Netherlands: regional climate and local topography

A global analysis of how human infrastructure squeezes sandy coasts

Coastal ecosystems provide vital services, but human disturbance causes massive losses. Remaining ecosystems are squeezed between rising seas and human infrastructure development. While shoreline retreat is intensively studied, coastal congestion through infrastructure remains unquantified. Here we analyse 235,469 transects worldwide to show that infrastructure occurs at a median distance of 392 meter from sandy shorelines. Moreover, we find that 33% of sandy shores harbour less than 100 m of infrastructure-free space, and that 23-30% of this space may be lost by 2100 due to rising sea levels. Further analyses show that population density and gross domestic product explain 35-39% of observed squeeze variation, emphasizing the intensifying pressure imposed as countries develop and populations grow. Encouragingly, we find that nature reserves relieve squeezing by 4-7 times. Yet, at present only 16% of world's sandy shores have a protected status. We therefore advocate the incorporation of nature protection into spatial planning policies.

Microscale and Mesoscale Aeolian Processes of Sandy Coastal Foredunes from Background to Extreme Conditions

Aeolian transport affects beach and foredune pre-storm morphologies, which directly contribute to storm responses. However, significant spatiotemporal variation exists within beach-dune systems regarding how biotic and abiotic factors affect topography. There are multiple metrics for quantifying topographic change, with varying pros and cons, but understanding how a system changes across spatiotemporal scales relative to varying forcings is necessary to accurately model and more effectively manage these systems. Beach and foredune micro- and mesoscale elevation changes (Δz) were quantified remotely and in situ across a mid-Atlantic coastal system. The microscale field collections consisted of 27 repeat measurements of 73 elevation pins located in vegetated, transitional, and unvegetated foredune microhabitats over three years (2015 to 2018) during seasonal, event-based, and background wind-condition collections. Unoccupied aerial System (UAS) surveys were collected to link microscale point Δz to mesoscale topographic change. Microscale measurements highlight how Δz varies more pre- to post-event than seasonally or monthly, but regardless of collection type (i.e., seasonal, monthly, or event-based), there was lower Δz in the vegetated areas than in the associated unvegetated and partially vegetated microhabitats. Despite lower Δz values per pin measurement, over the study duration, vegetated pins had a net elevation increase of ≈20 cm, whereas transitional and unvegetated microhabitats had much lower change, near-zero net gain. These results support vegetated microhabitats being more stable and having better sediment retention than unvegetated and transitional areas. Comparatively, mesoscale UAS surfaces typically overestimated Δz, such that variation stemming from vegetation across microhabitats was obscured. However, these data highlight larger mesoscale habitat impacts that cannot be determined from point measurements regarding volumetric change and feature mapping. Changes in features, such as beach access paths, that are associated with increased dynamism are quantifiable using mesoscale remote sensing methods rather than microscale methods. Regardless of the metric, maintaining baseline data is critical for assessing what is captured and missed across spatiotemporal scales and is necessary for understanding the contributors to heterogeneous topographic change in sandy coastal foredunes.

Influence of Sand Trapping Fences on Dune Toe Growth and Its Relation with Potential Aeolian Sediment Transport

This study provides insights into dune toe growth around and between individual brushwood lines of sand trapping fences at the dune toe of coastal dunes using digital elevation models obtained from repeated unmanned aerial vehicle surveys. Prevailing boundary conditions, especially sediment supply, as well as the porosity and arrangement of the installed sand trapping fences significantly influence the effectiveness of different configurations of sand trapping fences. The dune toe growth is significant immediately after constructing a new sand trapping fence and decreases over time. According to the results presented in this study, for sand trapping fences that have been in place longer, the protruding branch height and the porosity of the remaining branches play a minor role in trapping sand. Sand trapping fences with lower permeability favour localized coastal dune toe growth directly at their brushwood lines, whereas fences with higher porosity allow for more sediment deposition further downwind. The trend in dune toe changes can be roughly predicted by integrating potential sediment transport rates calculated with hourly meteorological data.

Sea level rise outpaced by vertical dune toe translation on prograding coasts

Sea level is rising due to climate change and is expected to influence the development and dynamics of coastal dunes. However, the anticipated changes to coastal dunes have not yet been demonstrated using field data. Here, we provide evidence of dune translation that is characterized by a linear increase of the dune toe elevation on the order of 13–15 mm/year during recent decades along the Dutch coast. This rate of increase is a remarkable 7–8 times greater than the measured sea level rise. The observed vertical dune toe translation coincides with seaward movement of the dune toe (i.e., progradation), which shows similarities to prograding coasts in the Holocene both along the Dutch coast and elsewhere. Thus, we suspect that other locations besides the Dutch coast might also show such large ratios between sea level rise and dune toe elevation increase. This phenomenon might significantly influence the expected impact of sea level rise and climate change adaptation measures.

Development and Application of an Empirical Dune Growth Model for Evaluating Barrier Island Recovery from Storms

Coastal zone managers require models that predict barrier island change on decadal time scales to estimate coastal vulnerability, and plan habitat restoration and coastal protection projects. To meet these needs, methods must be available for predicting dune recovery as well as dune erosion. In the present study, an empirical dune growth model (EDGR) was developed to predict the evolution of the primary foredune of a barrier island. Within EDGR, an island is represented as a sum of Gaussian shape functions representing dunes, berms, and the underlying island form. The model evolves the foredune based on estimated terminal dune height and location inputs. EDGR was assessed against observed dune evolution along the western end of Dauphin Island, Alabama over the 10 years following Hurricane Katrina (2005). The root mean square error with EDGR (ranging from 0.18 to 0.74 m over the model domain) was reduced compared to an alternate no-change model (0.69–0.96 m). Hindcasting with EDGR also supports the study of dune evolution processes. At Dauphin Island, results suggest that a low-lying portion of the site was dominated by overwash for ~5 years after Katrina, before approaching their terminal height and becoming growth-limited after 2010. EDGR’s computational efficiency allows dune evolution to be rapidly predicted and enables ensemble predictions to constrain the uncertainty that may result if terminal dune characteristics are unknown. In addition, EDGR can be coupled with an external model for estimating dune erosion and/or the long-term evolution of other subaerial features to allow decadal-scale prediction of barrier island evolution.

Regional versus local wind speed and direction at a narrow beach with a high and steep foredune

Dune growth and post-storm recovery of foredune systems is predominantly determined by the aeolian sand transport through the beach-dune interface. Potential sand transport rates, estimated with empirical transport equations using regionally representative wind conditions, are generally too high. This positive bias might be, at least partly, due to the effect of the beach and foredune topography on the regional airflow. Here, we investigate the relation between local (on the beach) and regional wind velocities and direction in front of the high (∼22 m) and steep (∼1:2.5) foredune partially vegetated with Marram grass at Egmond aan Zee, The Netherlands based on a dataset with a large variety in wind speeds spanning over all onshore wind directions. We observed that local 10-minute averaged wind speed and direction can differ from the regional wind conditions (here measured 15 km away from the study site) depending on the regional approach angle of the wind. The ratio of local over regional wind speed is smallest (∼0.39) when the wind direction is dune-normal. This ratio increases with increasing obliquity towards almost 1 for alongshore winds. Wind steering only happens at the dune foot and is the largest (∼13°) with oblique approaching winds of 40° from the dune normal. Perpendicular and nearly alongshore winds do not show any steering near the dune foot. The use of local rather than regional wind conditions in a potential transport equation reduces the predicted annual supply from 86 to 32 m³/m/y, substantially closer to the measured deposition of 15 m³/m/y. The drop in velocity was more important to the reduction in predicted supply than the alongshore steering.

Interdecadal Foredune Changes along the Southeast Australian Coastline: 1942–2014

Foredunes are important features within coastal landscapes, yet there are relatively few medium to long-term studies on how they evolve and change over time. This study of Australia’s New South Wales (NSW) foredunes has used 70 years of aerial photographs (or photogrammetry) and recent Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) datasets to assess multi-decadal fluctuations in foredune morphology. It was shown that over the past 70 years NSW foredunes have exhibited considerable spatial variation, ranging from accretion/aggradation to recession. Those sites that accreted predominantly extended seaward as new incipient dunes, gaining a maximum of 235 m3 m−1 in sand volume over the study period (for the entire dune system). These sites were commonly found in the north of the state, within closed sediment compartments, and with strong onshore (and alongshore) wind climates present (increasing the potential for aeolian sand transport). Stable foredunes were those that remained within +/− 50 m3 m−1 of their initial volume and managed to recover from the various storm impacts over the study period. The majority of these sites were found within the central to southern half of the state, behind embayed beaches, and within leaky sediment compartments, or those that have estuarine sinks. Finally, those foredunes in recession have retreated landwards and/or have reduced in height or width, and lost up to 437 m3 m−1 of sand volume over the study period. There was no clear spatial trend for these sites; however, generally they were found in compartments that had unusual orientations, had disruptions in longshore drift/cross shore sand delivery (i.e., rocky reefs), or were being impacted by humans (i.e., the installation of river training walls, sand bypassing systems, or coastal management programs). This study has shown that NSW foredunes have undergone substantial recent changes and, by understanding their past history, will provide better insight into how they can be managed into the future.

Mesoscale Morphological Changes of Nearshore Sand Banks since the Early 19th Century, and Their Influence on Coastal Dynamics, Northern France

Tidal sand banks are common along the coast of northern France facing the North Sea, where they form linear shore-parallel or slightly oblique sand bodies from shallow coastal areas to depths of tens of meters. Hydrographic surveys have been carried out since the 1830s for mapping the seabed of the coastal zone. An analysis of the bathymetry evolution shows significant morphological changes have occurred across the shoreface since the early 19th century, largely due to cross-shore and longshore sand bank migration. Our results show that nearshore sand banks mainly migrated onshore and gained sediment, especially during the 20th century; acting as temporary sediment sinks, which can in turn serve as sand sources for providing sediment to the coast. Alongshore, the migration and elongation of sand banks can be related to tidal asymmetry that is mostly directed to the east-north-east in the region. Shore-perpendicular movement can likely be explained by the action of shore-normal storm-waves in the nearshore zone after their refraction over shallow offshore sand banks. A seaward displacement of sand banks was also observed. This may be related to the combined action of waves and tidal currents which can induce erosion on one side of the bank, decreasing its width, and eventually leading to its seaward migration. Our observations point out that some nearshore sand banks respond to the action of currents and waves, and interact between each other via feedback morphodynamic processes induced by sand bank morphological changes. The substantial morphologic changes that affected the nearshore zone of northern France during the last centuries probably had large impacts on coastal hydrodynamics and associated shoreline evolution.

Spatiotemporal Surface Moisture Variations on a Barred Beach and their Relationship with Groundwater Fluctuations

Understanding the spatiotemporal variability of surface moisture on a beach is a necessity to develop a quantitatively accurate predictive model for aeolian sand transport from the beach into the foredune. Here, we analyze laser-derived surface moisture maps with a 1 × 1 m spatial and a 15-min temporal resolution and concurrent groundwater measurements collected during falling and rising tide at the barred Egmond beach, the Netherlands. Consistent with earlier studies, the maps show that the beach can be conceptualized into three surface moisture zones. First, the wet zone just above the low tide level: 18–25%; second, the intertidal zone: 5–25% with large fluctuations. In this zone, surface moisture can decrease with a rate varying between ∼2.5–4% per hour, and cumulatively with 16% during a single falling tide; and, third, the back beach zone: 3–7% (dry). The bar–trough system perturbs this overall zonation, with the moisture characteristics on the bar similar to the upper intertidal beach and the trough always remaining wet. Surface moisture fluctuations are strongly linked to the behavior of groundwater depth and can be described by a ’Van Genuchten-type’ retention curve without hysteresis effects. Applying the Van Genuchten relationship with measured groundwater data allows us to predict surface moisture maps. Results show that the predictions capture the overall surface moisture pattern reasonably well; however, alongshore variability in groundwater level should be improved to refine the predicted surface moisture maps, especially near the sandbar.

Using Argus Video Monitoring to Determine Limiting Factors of Aeolian Sand Transport on a Narrow Beach

Aeolian sediment transport on beaches is responsible for dune growth and/or recovery. Models predicting potential aeolian sediment transport rates often overpredict the amount of deposition on the foredune when applied to narrow (<100 m) beaches, pointing to supply limitations. Our goal is to better understand these limitations, especially in the long-term (>years) in order to improve predicted transport volumes and the timing of transport. Here, we used 8 years of Argus video images at Egmond aan Zee, The Netherlands, in combination with routine weather data to delineate 241 limited from 467 unlimited sand transport events to explore supply-limiting factors. Our research shows that the wind is more oriented to the west (shore normal) and is generally stronger for limited transport events. This indicates that the available fetch distance is often less than the critical fetch needed for unlimited transport. This is further confirmed by the timing of the transport events, as limited events often became unlimited during low tide when the beach was the widest and fetch potentially the longest. Our results help understanding the nature of aeolian sediment transport on narrow beaches, which will hopefully lead to better predictions of annual aeolian sediment transport rates.

Spatio-Temporal Variations in Foredune Dynamics Determined with Mobile Laser Scanning

Coastal foredunes are highly dynamic landforms because of rapid erosion by waves and currents during storm surges in combination with gradual accretion by aeolian transport during more quiescent conditions. While our knowledge into the mechanisms behind foredune erosion have reached considerable maturity, this is not the case for foredune growth. High resolution spatio-temporal data sets of beach and foredune topography, which are needed to increase our understanding of mechanisms behind aeolian transport in coastal environments and to develop predictive dune-accretion models, are scarce. Here we aim to illustrate that repeated Mobile Laser Scanning (MLS) surveys provide an accurate and robust method to study detailed changes in dune volume on the timescales of months to years. An MLS system attached to an inertial navigation system with RTK-GPS (INS-GPS) was used to carry out 13 surveys along a 3.5-km Dutch beach over a 2.5-year period. The height observations were post-processed and averaged into 1 × 1 m Digital Elevation Models (DEMs). Comparison with airborne LiDAR and RTK-GPS data revealed that the obtained DEMs were accurate and robust up to a height of 15 m in the foredune above which dense vegetation hampers the MLS to see the sand surface. Estimates of dune volume change of the lower 13 m of the foredune have an uncertainty of about 0.25 m 3 /m. Time series of dune volume change show that at our study site the foredune accretes throughout the year at similar rates (10 m 3 /m/year), while marine erosion is obviously confined to storm surges. Foredune accretion and erosion vary spatially, which can, in part, be related to variations in beach width.

Does salt stress constrain spatial distribution of dune building grasses Ammophila arenaria and Elytrichia juncea on the beach?

Rising sea levels threaten coastal safety by increasing the risk of flooding. Coastal dunes provide a natural form of coastal protection. Understanding drivers that constrain early development of dunes is necessary to assess whether dune development may keep pace with sea-level rise. In this study, we explored to what extent salt stress experienced by dune building plant species constrains their spatial distribution at the Dutch sandy coast. We conducted a field transplantation experiment and a glasshouse experiment with two dune building grasses Ammophila arenaria and Elytrigia juncea. In the field, we measured salinity and monitored growth of transplanted grasses in four vegetation zones: (I) nonvegetated beach, (II) E. juncea occurring, (III) both species co-occurring, and (IV) A. arenaria dominant. In the glasshouse, we subjected the two species to six soil salinity treatments, with and without salt spray. We monitored biomass, photosynthesis, leaf sodium, and nutrient concentrations over a growing season. The vegetation zones were weakly associated with summer soil salinity; zone I and II were significantly more saline than zones III and IV. Ammophila arenaria performed equally (zone II) or better (zones III, IV) than E. juncea, suggesting soil salinity did not limit species performance. Both species showed severe winter mortality. In the glasshouse, A. arenaria biomass decreased linearly with soil salinity, presumably as a result of osmotic stress. Elytrigia juncea showed a nonlinear response to soil salinity with an optimum at 0.75% soil salinity. Our findings suggest that soil salinity stress either takes place in winter, or that development of vegetated dunes is less sensitive to soil salinity than hitherto expected.

Measuring and modeling the effect of surface moisture on the spectral reflectance of coastal beach sand

Surface moisture is an important supply limiting factor for aeolian sand transport, which is the primary driver of coastal dune development. As such, it is critical to account for the control of surface moisture on available sand for dune building. Optical remote sensing has the potential to measure surface moisture at a high spatio-temporal resolution. It is based on the principle that wet sand appears darker than dry sand: it is less reflective. The goals of this study are (1) to measure and model reflectance under controlled laboratory conditions as function of wavelength () and surface moisture () over the optical domain of 350–2500 nm, and (2) to explore the implications of our laboratory findings for accurately mapping the distribution of surface moisture under natural conditions. A laboratory spectroscopy experiment was conducted to measure spectral reflectance (1 nm interval) under different surface moisture conditions using beach sand. A non-linear increase of reflectance upon drying was observed over the full range of wavelengths. Two models were developed and tested. The first model is grounded in optics and describes the proportional contribution of scattering and absorption of light by pore water in an unsaturated sand matrix. The second model is grounded in soil physics and links the hydraulic behaviour of pore water in an unsaturated sand matrix to its optical properties. The optical model performed well for volumetric moisture content 24% ( 0.97), but underestimated reflectance for between 24–30% ( 0.92), most notable around the 1940 nm water absorption peak. The soil-physical model performed very well ( 0.99) but is limited to 4% 24%. Results from a field experiment show that a short-wave infrared terrestrial laser scanner ( = 1550 nm) can accurately relate surface moisture to reflectance (standard error 2.6%), demonstrating its potential to derive spatially extensive surface moisture maps of a natural coastal beach.