Skin safety and health prevention: an overview of chemicals in cosmetic products

Chemicals of concern in select packaged hair relaxers available on the Kenyan market: an examination of ingredient labels and measurement of pH

Background

There is an emerging interest in the investigation of hair relaxers as important sources of exposure to chemicals of concern (CoCs) and their associated adverse health effects. We focused on documentation of CoCs by examining labels of selected relaxers currently available on the market in Nakuru and Embu Counties, Kenya and measured the pH profiles to ensure compliance with Kenya Bureau of Standards.

Methods

We enrolled 746 women aged 15-50 years in a cross-sectional study, which ascertained participants' sociodemographic characteristics, personal care products use in the last 7-14 days and ever use of hair dyes and chemical relaxers including the brand names of products used. Based on participants' questionnaire responses and product availability at beauty shops and supermarkets, we purchased 22 different relaxer products. The label of each product was reviewed and we recorded relaxer strength, manufacturer and location, listed ingredients, and other claims. To identify CoCs, we cross-checked the list of ingredients against the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics' (CSC) Red List and European Union's prohibited and restricted substances (Annex II and III respectively), Regulation 1223/2009 on cosmetics. The pH profiles of each product were determined using a benchtop pH meter.

Results

Twenty-seven CoCs were documented upon examination with each relaxer listing more than one CoC. Thirteen out of 27 (48.2%) were fragrance chemicals with d-limonene/limonene and linalool, each being listed as an ingredient in 9 products. Fourteen (63.6%) relaxers had undisclosed ingredients listed as 'fragrance' and/or 'parfum'. Six of the identified CoCs are classified as Tier 1 (Do not use for everyone) per CSC Red List while 14.8% (4) are prohibited and 55.6% (15) are restricted substances per EU regulations. The pH values of the relaxers were within Kenya Bureau of Standards required range of 11-13.

Conclusion

These findings create awareness of CoCs listed on labels of selected hair relaxers. This justifies the need for consumer education on potentially harmful chemicals and their associated risks. Further, our findings justify the need for laboratory study to evaluate and quantify CoCs that are listed as well as those that are not listed on the label.

Rhamnolipid-Modified PHB-Ectoine Nanoparticles for Multifunctional Skin Protection Against UVB, Irritation, and Bacteria

Rhamnolipid, poly(R)-3-hydroxybutyrate (PHB), and ectoine are sustainable compounds produced by specific bacteria known for their protective benefits, including promoting skin health in applications, such as facial wash, sunscreens, and moisturizers. These compounds have been extensively studied due to their unique physicochemical properties and biocompatibility. Leveraging these beneficial properties, this study aimed to create a multifunctional protective formulation by synthesizing nanoparticles from PHB and ectoine, which are acknowledged for their anti-ultraviolet B (UVB) and anti-irritation properties. The covalent bonding of PHB and ectoine was achieved using 1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)carbodiimide (EDC), and the nanoparticles were produced through centrifugation. The synthesized nanoparticle (PHB-ectoine NPs) was physicochemically characterized and tested for anti-irritation and anti-UVB properties in vitro. The characterization revealed a homogeneous spherical shape with a distinct layered structure, primarily composed of carbon and oxygen. The PHB-ectoine NPs measured 527 ± 228 nm in size, had a zeta potential of -61.47 ± 0.64 mV, and exhibited notably higher anti-irritant and anti-UVB activities compared to PHB alone, by over 10 and 4 times, respectively. Furthermore, the addition of a rhamnolipid solution as a dispersant provided the nanofluid with antibacterial properties againstStaphylococcus aureus. These results indicate that the rhamnolipid-PHB-ectoine nanoformulation shows significant potential as a multifunctional skin protective agent with anti-irritation, anti-UVB, and antibacterial capabilities.

Advancements of paper-based microfluidics and organ-on-a-chip models in cosmetics hazards

Cosmetics have been used in society for centuries for beautification and personal hygiene maintenance. Modern cosmetics include various makeup, hair, and skincare products that range from moisturizers and shampoos to lipsticks and foundations and have become a quintessential part of our daily grooming activities. However, dangerous adulterants are added during the production of these cosmetics, which range from heavy metals to microbial contaminants. These adulterants not only reduce the quality and efficacy of cosmetic products but also pose a significant risk to human health. Detecting the presence of adulterants in cosmetics is crucial for regulating substandard cosmetic products in the industry. The conventional methods to detect such adulterants and quality testing are expensive and take a lot of effort, particularly when involving advanced analytical detection and clinical trials. Recently, efficient methods such as microfluidic methods have emerged to detect adulterants rapidly. In this review, we mainly focus on various adulterants present in cosmetics and their detection using paper-based microfluidic devices. In addition, this review also sheds light on the organ-on-a-chip model with the goal of developing a human tissue model for cosmetic testing. Combined, these approaches provide an efficient, inexpensive, and sustainable approach for quality testing in the cosmetics industry.

Potential anti-aging applications of microbial-derived surfactantsin cosmetic formulations

The skin aging process is a complex interaction of genetic, epigenetic, and environmental factors, such as chemical pollution and UV radiation. There is growing evidence that biosurfactants, especially those of microbial origin, have distinct age-supportive effects through different mechanisms, such as stimulation of fibroblast growth, high antioxidant capacities, and favorable anti-inflammatory properties. With a growing financial contribution of more than 15 m€per year, microbial surfactants (MSs) display unique biological effects on the skin including improved cell mobility, better nutrient access, and facilitated cellular growth under harsh conditions. Their biodegradable nature, unusual surface activity, good safety profile and tolerance to high temperature and pH variations widen their potential spectrum in biomedical and pharmaceutical applications. MSs typically have lower critical micelle concentration (CMC) levels than chemical surfactants enhancing their effectiveness. As natural surfactants, MSs are considered possible "green" alternatives to synthetic surfactants with better biodegradability, sustainability, and beneficial functional properties. This review therefore aims to explore the potential impacts of MSs as anti-aging ingredients.

Evaluating the Efficacy and Safety of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids in Dermatological Practice: A Comprehensive Clinical and Legal Review

The global market for alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) is undergoing significant expansion, propelled by increasing demand for skincare products that address aging and environmental damage. This review focuses on the dermatological applications of AHAs, particularly in cosmetic formulations like chemical peels. We have identified that AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic acids, enhance skin rejuvenation by promoting apoptosis in skin cells, boosting collagen and elastin synthesis, and improving skin texture and luminosity. Our comprehensive analysis reveals a nuanced understanding of AHAs' effectiveness across various skin types and conditions, demonstrating their broad utility in treating conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, and photoaging. However, the optimal concentrations for therapeutic efficacy with minimal side effects are yet to be precisely defined, necessitating further research. Regulatory compliance is underscored as essential for the safe application of AHAs in cosmetics, with international guidelines recommending specific concentrations and pH levels to minimize potential skin irritation. In Conclusion, the review highlights the effectiveness of AHAs in cosmetic dermatology, emphasizing the necessity for continued research and rigorous regulatory adherence to maximize their safe and beneficial application worldwide.

Recent use of consumer and personal care products and exposures to select endocrine disrupting chemicals among urban children with asthma

BACKGROUND

Emerging studies suggest that endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs) in personal care and other consumer products are linked with various adverse health effects, including respiratory and reproductive effects. Despite Black persons using more personal care products than other demographic groups and having a high asthma burden, little is known regarding their consumer product use patterns and associated EDC exposures.

OBJECTIVE

To examine the association between recent exposure to select EDCs with specific consumer products and behaviors in a cohort of 110 predominantly Black children with asthma, ages 8-17 years, living in Baltimore City, Maryland.

METHODS

We quantified concentrations of bisphenol A (BPA), bisphenol S (BPS), bisphenol F, two dichlorophenols, four parabens, triclosan, benzophenone-3, and triclocarban in spot urine samples. Questionnaires were used to capture recent (last 24-h) consumer product use and behaviors. Associations between EDCs and consumer product uses/behaviors were assessed using multivariable linear regression, adjusting for age, gender, race/ethnicity, and caregiver income level. Effect estimates were expressed as geometric mean ratios of biomarker concentrations of product-users vs non-users.

RESULTS

Increased concentrations to select EDCs were associated with recent use of air freshener (ratios; BPA: 1.9, 95%CI 1.4-2; BPS 1.7, 95%CI 1-2.97; propyl paraben: 3.0, 95%CI 1.6-5.6), scented candles (methyl paraben: 2.6, 95%CI 1.1-6.1), and scented carpet powder (2,5-dichlorophenol: 2.8, 95%CI 1.2-6.3). Additionally, consuming canned food was associated with some increased biomarker concentrations (ratios: BPA: 1.7, 95%CI 1.2-2.4; BPS: 2.1, 95% CI: 1.2-3.6).

SIGNIFICANCE

These findings add to the body of evidence suggesting that recent use of select consumer products in Black children contributes to exposure of chemicals of concern and could potentially inform exposure mitigation interventions. Findings have broad potential health implications for pediatric populations and Black children who may face exposure and health disparities.

IMPACT

Little is known about how children's personal care product use and consumer behaviors affect their exposures to endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs). This is particularly true for Black children who often experience a disparate exposure burden to many EDCs. This is a significant knowledge gap among children that are uniquely vulnerable to EDCs as they undergo critical windows of growth and development. Our findings show associations between consumer products and EDC exposures in predominantly Black children in low-income settings. Identifying EDC exposure determinants has broad health implications as many of these chemicals have been associated with adverse health risks.

Predisposing factors of using cosmetics in Iranian female students: application of prototype willingness model

Background and aim

The use of cosmetics among Iranian teenagers and youths has increased more than ever before. This study investigated the predisposing factors of cosmetic use in female students of Ardabil University of Medical Sciences by using the prototype willingness model (PWM).

Methods

This cross-sectional study was conducted with 384 students, selected based on multistage sampling. Data were collected using a two-part questionnaire that included demographic variables and PWM questions. Then multiple regression analysis was used in SPSS (version 20).

Results

There was a significant difference in the frequency of daily cosmetic use based on the education levels (F = 3.845, p-value = 0.034). The average daily use of cosmetics was higher in students whose use of cosmetics was high in their family (p = 0.024) and friends (p-value = 0.023). Prototypes were the strongest predictor of using cosmetics (OR = 1.317, p-value <0.001), followed by attitude (OR = 1.241, p-value <0.001).

Conclusion

Prototypes (social imagination) and attitudes were the main predictors of using cosmetics among female students. To be effective in targeting cosmetic use, interventions must target both social and individual paths.

Isolation and Identification of Microorganisms associated with high-quality and low-quality cosmetics from different brands in Mecca region -Saudi Arabia

Cosmetic products contain several components that are ideal for microbial growth, they exposed to contamination by pathogenic bacteria and fungi, and this may cause health risks such as skin and eye infections. In this investigation, 50 samples were obtained from various shops in Mecca region, Saudi Arabia. Collected samples include high-quality and low-quality brands of makeup. Results show that most cosmetics are contaminated with microorganisms. Bacterial and fungal isolates were identified by morphological and microscopic techniques, and confirmed by molecular methods: (16s rRNA) for bacterial isolates and (18s rRNA) for fungal isolates associated with cosmetics. In low-quality cosmetics, frequency of microbial growth is higher and more diverse than high-quality cosmetics. It has been observed the most contaminated product was in lip gloss and it follows by the lipstick. The most predominant species of bacteria are Staphylococcus aureus (27 %), E. coli (27 %), which follows by Streptococcus pneumonia (18 %), Staphylococcus epidermis (17 %), Bacilli subtilis (12 %), and Pseudomonas aeruginosa (5 %). Aspergillus sp is the most predominant fungi (57 %), which is followed by Penicillium sp. (29 %) and Rhizopus sp. (14 %). In high quality brands, the frequency of microbial growth was the highest in mascara, lip-gloss. The most predominant species of bacteria is Staphylococcus aureus (41 %), which follows by Bacilli subtilis and Pseudomonas aeruginosa and E. coli (17 %). Streptococcus pneumonia is the less dominant (5 %). There is no growth on media of fungi. Due to the large number of cosmetics brands in Mecca region and for consumer safety, this study is prepared.

Efficacy Comparison of an Automated Growth-Based System and Plate-Count Method on the Detection of Yeasts and Molds in Personal Care Products

OBJECTIVE

The present investigation studies the efficacy of an automated growth-based system for a quantitative determination of Candida albicans and Aspergillus brasiliensis in several personal care products. The main purpose of this validation study was to prove that the alternative method's entire performance is not inferior to the conventional pour-plate method for a quantitative determination of yeasts and molds. Thus, a performance equivalence was established in accordance with the United Stated Pharmacopeia (USP-NF) Validation of Alternative Microbiological Methods ˂1223˃.

METHODS

C. albicans and A. brasiliensis were pooled to use as inoculum (equivalent to 1.0 × 108 CFU/mL) in the suitability of the method test. PCP's preservatives were chemically neutralized leading to the yeast and mold recovery by means of the alternative microbiological method (AMM) and the pour-plate method. A correlation curve was generated for each PCP by plotting DTs relative to the corresponding log CFU values.

RESULTS

Thirty PCPs have been tested for quantification of yeasts and molds using an AMM. An equivalence of results was made through the construction of correlation curves that allowed the establishment of numerically equivalent results between the enumeration data from the reference method (CFU) and the alternative method (Detection times, DTs). Thus, following the guidelines of USP Ch.1223, essential validation parameters were tested, such as equivalence of results (Correlation coeficient, CC >0.95), linearity (R2 >0.9025), accuracy (% recovery >70%), operating range, precision (CV <35%), ruggedness (one-way ANOVA, P > 0.05), specificity, LOD, and LOQ.

CONCLUSION

It was shown that all the test results obtained from the alternative method were in statistical agreement with the standard plate-count method (PCM). Thus, this new technology was found to meet all the validation criteria needed to be considered for an alternative method for yeast and mold quantification in the PCPs tested.

HIGHLIGHTS

In accordance with the United Stated Pharmacopeia (USP-NF) Validation of Alternative Microbiological Methods ˂1223˃, the implementation of alternative methods can offer benefits in execution and automation while improving accuracy, sensitivity, and precision and reduce the microbiological process time compared to the traditional ones.

Redundant and scattered genetic determinants for coumarin biodegradation in Pseudomonas sp. strain NyZ480

Coumarin (COU) is both a naturally derived phytotoxin and a synthetic pollutant which causes hepatotoxicity in susceptible humans. Microbes have potentials in COU biodegradation; however, its underlying genetic determinants remain unknown. Pseudomonas sp. strain NyZ480, a robust COU degrader, has been isolated and proven to grow on COU as its sole carbon source. In this study, five homologs of xenobiotic reductase A scattered throughout the chromosome of strain NyZ480 were identified, which catalyzed the conversion of COU to dihydrocoumarin (DHC) in vitro. Phylogenetic analysis indicated that these COU reductases belong to different subgroups of the old yellow enzyme family. Moreover, two hydrolases (CouB1 and CouB2) homologous to the 3,4-dihydrocoumarin hydrolase in the fluorene degradation were found to accelerate the generation of melilotic acid (MA) from DHC. CouC, a new member from the group A flavin monooxygenase, was heterologously expressed and purified, catalyzing the hydroxylation of MA to produce 3-(2,3-dihydroxyphenyl)propionate (DHPP). Gene deletion and complementation of couC indicated that couC played an essential role in the COU catabolism in strain NyZ480, considering that the genes involved in the downstream catabolism of DHPP have been characterized (Y. Xu and N. Y. Zhou, Appl Environ Microbiol 86:e02385-19, 2020) and homologous catabolic cluster exists in strain NyZ480. This study elucidated the genetic determinants for complete degradation of COU by Pseudomonas sp. strain NyZ480.IMPORTANCECoumarin (COU) is a phytochemical widely distributed in the plant kingdom and also artificially produced as an ingredient for personal care products. Hence, the environmental occurrence of COU has been reported in different places. Toxicologically, COU was proven hepatotoxic to individuals with mutations in the CYP2A6 gene and listed as a group 3 carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer and thus has raised increasing concerns. Until now, different physicochemical methods have been developed for the removal of COU, whereas their practical applications were hampered due to high cost and the risk of secondary contamination. In this study, genetic evidence and biochemical characterization of the COU degradation by Pseudomonas sp. strain NyZ480 are presented. With the gene and strain resources provided here, better managements of the hazards that humans face from COU could be achieved, and the possible microbiota-plant interaction mediated by the COU-utilizing rhizobacteria could also be investigated.

Analysis of Adverse Reactions of Cosmetics in Chinese Han Population in Recent Five Years

Background

There are still some gaps in the summary and generalization of cosmetic-related adverse reaction reports.

Objective

The aim of this study is to summarize and analyze the occurrence of cosmetic adverse reactions in Shanghai Han population by using available survey data.

Materials and Methods

Collection, statistics and analysis of patients with cosmetic adverse reactions in Shanghai Huashan Hospital from 2017 to 2021.

Results

Among the 1004 patients, most of them (96.71%) were diagnosed as cosmetic contact dermatitis, which often occurred within 3 days of using cosmetics (51.79%). A total of 260 patients were tested with patch test, but the compliance rate was only 18.08%. Among them, 240 patients underwent additional European standard allergen tests, and positive allergens were detected in 210 cases (87.5%). Univariate analysis revealed that dosage form (emulsion and cream), age (≤25 years) and the allergic ingredients triethanolamine, rose oil, propylene glycol, thiomersal and musk ambrette are associated with the occurrence of cosmetic adverse reactions within seven days. A logit prediction model was also successfully constructed: Logit (P) = 1.710-0.796×1 + 1.185×2 -3.650X3-1.335X4.

Conclusion

This study complements the data reported on cosmetic adverse reactions in the Chinese Han population and suggests that in future clinical diagnosis and data collection, emphasis should be placed on patch testing, combining the patch test with cosmetic protoplast with the European standard allergen test to improve the detection rate.

Potential Carcinogens in Makeup Cosmetics

Facial makeup cosmetics are commonly used products that are applied to the skin, and their ingredients come into contact with it for many years. Consequently, they should only contain substances that are considered safe or used within an allowable range of established concentrations. According to current European laws, all cosmetics approved for use should be entirely safe for their users, and the responsibility for this lies with manufacturers, distributors, and importers. However, the use of cosmetics can be associated with undesirable effects due to the presence of certain chemical substances. An analysis of 50 random facial makeup cosmetics commercially available on the European Union market and manufactured in six European countries was carried out, concerning the presence of substances with potential carcinogenic properties, as described in recent years in the literature. Nine types of facial makeup cosmetics were selected, and their compositions, as declared on the labels, were analyzed. The carcinogens were identified with information present in the European CosIng database and according to the Insecticide Resistance Action Committee's (IRAC) classification. As a result, the following potential carcinogens were identified: parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben), ethoxylated compounds (laureth-4, lautreth-7, or ethylene glycol polymers known as PEG), formaldehyde donors (imidazolidinyl urea, quaternium 15, and DMDM hydantoin), and ethanolamine and their derivatives (triethanolamine and diazolidinyl urea), as well as carbon and silica. In conclusion, all of the analyzed face makeup cosmetics contain potential carcinogenic substances. The literature review confirmed the suppositions regarding the potential carcinogenic effects of selected cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, it seems necessary to carry out studies on the long-term exposure of compounds present in cosmetics and perhaps introduce stricter standards and laws regulating the potential presence of carcinogens and their activity in cosmetics.

Biocosmetics: technological advances and future outlook

The paper provides an overview of biocosmetics, which has tremendous potential for growth and is attracting huge business opportunities. It emphasizes the immediate need to replace conventional fossil-based ingredients in cosmetics with natural, safe, and effective ingredients. It assembles recent technologies viable in the production/extraction of the bioactive ingredient, product development, and formulation processes, its rapid and smooth delivery to the target site, and fosters bio-based cosmetic packaging. It further explores industries that can be a trailblazer in supplying raw material for extraction of bio-based ingredients for cosmetics, creating biodegradable packaging, or weaving innovation in fashion clothing. Lastly, the paper discusses what it takes to become the first generation of a circular economy and supports the implementation of strict regulatory guidelines for any cosmetic sold globally.

[Simultaneous determination of 28 fragrance components in cosmetics by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry]

With the increasing number of cosmetic products, their flavor and fragrance components are receiving greater and greater attention. Establishing an analytical method of determining these components in cosmetics is one of the most effective measures to eliminate consumers' concerns. In this study, a method for the simultaneous determination of 28 fragrance residues in cosmetics by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) was developed. The samples were extracted using methanol and those containing more oil and grease were purified using a neutral alumina solid-phase extraction column, whereas those with more complex compositions were purified by QuEChERS. The analytes in the samples were measured by GC-MS/MS, characterized using their retention times and characteristic ion pairs, and quantified with an external standard. The respective limits of detection (LODs, S/N=3) and quantification (LOQs, S/N>10) of the compounds were in the ranges 2-20 and 5-50 μg/kg. The linearities of the concentration curves of the 28 substances were good in the ranges 1-100, 2-200, 4-200, and 10-1000 μg/L, and the correlation coefficients of the quantitative ion pairs were >0.999. Twenty-eight fragrances were added to blank samples at spiked levels of 50-500 μg/kg, and the recoveries ranged from 71.3% to 120.4%, with RSDs of 1.5%-14.6%. The method could be applied in the determination of fragrances in cosmetics because it was simple, sensitive, and stable and could effectively exclude the interferences of complex matrices. The method was used to determine the fragrance components in 16 cosmetic products, and some fragrance components were detected in 12 samples. Increased attention should be paid to the safeties of fragrances and flavors used in cosmetics.

Assessment of Cosmetic Properties and Safety of Use of Model Washing Gels with Reishi, Maitake and Lion's Mane Extracts

Natural cosmetics are becoming more and more popular every day. For this reason, this work investigates the properties of mushroom extracts, which are not as widely used in the cosmetics industry as plant ingredients. Water extracts of Grifolafrondosa (Maitake), Hericiumerinaceus (Lion's Mane) and Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) were tested for their antioxidant properties, bioactive substances content, skin cell toxicity, ability to limit TEWL, effect on skin hydration and pH, and skin irritation. Our research showed that Maitake extract contained the highest amount of flavonoids and phenols, and also showed the most effective scavenging of DPPH and ABTS radicals as well as Chelation of Fe2+ and FRAP radicals, which were 39.84% and 82.12% in a concentration of 1000 µg/mL, respectively. All tested extracts did not increase the amount of ROS in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The addition of mushroom extracts to washing gels reduced the irritating effect on skin, and reduced the intracellular production of free radicals, compared with the cosmetic base. Moreover, it was shown that the analyzedcosmetics had a positive effect on the pH and hydration of the skin, and reduced TEWL.

Integrated Approach to Extract and Purify Proteins from Honey by Ionic Liquid-Based Three-Phase Partitioning

The purification of value-added compounds by three-phase partitioning (TPP) is a promising alternative to conventional processes since the target compound can be easily recovered from the liquid-liquid interphase. Although this technique has been successfully applied to the recovery of proteins, the minimization of the use of salts and solvents must be pursued to improve the overall process sustainability. Accordingly, we have here investigated the use of biobased glycine-betaine ionic liquids (IL) directly with honey, a carbohydrate-rich matrix, as phase-forming components of TPP systems. These ILTPP systems were applied in the purification of major royal jelly proteins (MRJPs) from honey. The results obtained show that MRJPs mostly precipitate in the ILTPP interphase, with a recovery yield ranging between 82.8% and 97.3%. In particular, MRJP1 can be obtained with a purity level up to 90.1%. Furthermore, these systems allow the simultaneous separation of antioxidants and carbohydrates to different liquid phases. The proposed approach allows the separation of proteins, antioxidants, and carbohydrates from honey in a single step, while using only ILs and a real carbohydrate-rich matrix, thus being sustainable TPP processes.

Occurrence of Allergens in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is characterized by symptoms such as stinging and tingling in response to stimuli that usually do not cause unpleasant sensations. Epidemiological studies show that individuals with sensitive skin are more prone to developing skin allergies, although the link between both conditions is unknown. Aiming to evaluate the presence of allergens in facial-skin products for sensitive skin, a pool of 88 cosmetic products from international brands marketed in pharmacies and parapharmacies was analyzed. A list of allergens identified in product labels was compiled and grouped according to their function. Fragrances were the most common allergens, followed by skin-conditioning agents, surfactants, and preservatives. Fragrances presenting the highest use percentages were linalool, benzyl alcohol, geraniol, and citronellol. Overall, the majority of cosmetic formulations were absent of fragrance allergens, being present only in 7% of products. Other allergens were found in most products (95%). This finding should be interpreted with caution, since many of these compounds are rare sensitizers and studies demonstrating their risk for individuals with sensitive skin are lacking. With this study, useful information for health professionals is provided to support their advice and to help consumers choosing cosmetic products.

Quantitative analysis of fragrance allergens in various matrixes of cosmetics by liquid-liquid extraction and GC-MS

Fragrances are the most common chemicals in cosmetics to which people expose every day. However, the unwanted allergic reactions such as contact dermatitis caused by direct contact with fragrances may happen. In Directive 2003/15/EC of the EU, cosmetic product containing one or more of 26 fragrance allergens must be declared on the package label. In addition, commission regulation (EU) 2017/1410 amending Annexes II and III of cosmetic regulation 1223/2009 restricted fragrance chemical of methyl eugenol, and prohibited Lyral, atranol, chloroatranol to be used in cosmetic. In this study, an efficient and sensitive GC-MS method for 3 banned fragrances, 26 fragrance allergens along with restricted methyl eugenol in cosmetics was established. Sample preparation by liquid-liquid extraction was developed by testing various solvent systems to simplify traditional complex extraction methodologies. Validation of the proposed method showed good linearities in a wide concentration ranges of 0.1-10 μg/mL. The intra-day and inter-day recoveries were between 84.4 and 119% with coefficient of variation (CV) below 13.5%. The limit of quantifications (LOQs) of 27 fragrance allergens were in the range of 2-20 μg/g. A surveillance study consisted with 82 cosmetics was conducted, among which 31 products claimed fragrance-free. The results showed some fragrance-free claims were false. In the other hand, there were seven cosmetics labeled containing Lyral, but only four were detected. The top fragrance allergens detected in the samples were linalool, limonene, and geraniol. The analysis of fragrance allergens in cosmetics indicated that potential contact allergy related to these products should be considered, even though some fragrance allergens were from natural extracts, such as oak moss absolute.

Analytical method development and percutaneous absorption of propylidene phthalide, a cosmetic ingredient

Propylidene phthalide (PP) is a cosmetic ingredient used in the fragrance industry and regulated for the limited content of 0.01% in cosmetic products in Korea. The aim of this study was to determine PP dermal absorption rate according to the Korea Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS) guidelines using in vitro Franz diffusion system. An analytical method in assessing PP was developed through method validation using LC-MS/MS. Linearity, precision, and accuracy were acceptable based upon MFDS guidelines. The stability of PP in receptor fluid (50% ethanol) at 32°C was sufficient up to 24 hr. Cream formulation (o/w) was topically applied to excised rat skin at a dose of 113 mg/cm² containing 0.7% PP. The time points for receptor fluid collection were set at 0, 1, 2, 4, 8, 12, and 24 hr. After 24 hr, the remaining formulation on the skin and stratum corneum (SC) were collected through swabbing with an alcohol cotton and tape stripping, respectively. The collected samples (swabbed-remained formulation, SC, and skin) were extracted using acetonitrile for 24 hr. Total dermal absorption rate of PP was approximately 24% in cream formulation. These findings may be used for further exposure evaluation of PP in human consumers.

Antioxidant and food additive BHA prevents TNF cytotoxicity by acting as a direct RIPK1 inhibitor

Butylate hydroxyanisole (BHA) is a synthetic phenol that is widely utilized as a preservative by the food and cosmetic industries. The antioxidant properties of BHA are also frequently used by scientists to claim the implication of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in various cellular processes, including cell death. We report on the surprising finding that BHA functions as a direct inhibitor of RIPK1, a major signaling hub downstream of several immune receptors. Our in silico analysis predicts binding of 3-BHA, but not 2-BHA, to RIPK1 in an inactive DLG-out/Glu-out conformation, similar to the binding of the type III inhibitor Nec-1s to RIPK1. This predicted superior inhibitory capacity of 3-BHA over 2-BHA was confirmed in cells and using in vitro kinase assays. We demonstrate that the reported protective effect of BHA against tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-induced necroptotic death does not originate from ROS scavenging but instead from direct RIPK1 enzymatic inhibition, a finding that most probably extends to other reported effects of BHA. Accordingly, we show that BHA not only protects cells against RIPK1-mediated necroptosis but also against RIPK1 kinase-dependent apoptosis. We found that BHA treatment completely inhibits basal and induced RIPK1 enzymatic activity in cells, monitored at the level of TNFR1 complex I under apoptotic conditions or in the cytosol under necroptosis. Finally, we show that oral administration of BHA protects mice from RIPK1 kinase-dependent lethality caused by TNF injection, a model of systemic inflammatory response syndrome. In conclusion, our results demonstrate that BHA can no longer be used as a strict antioxidant and that new functions of RIPK1 may emerge from previously reported effects of BHA.

Lipids from Microalgae for Cosmetic Applications

In recent years, there has been considerable interest in using microalgal lipids in the food, chemical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. Several microalgal species can accumulate appreciable lipid quantities and therefore are characterized as oleaginous. In cosmetic formulations, lipids and their derivatives are one of the main ingredients. Different lipid classes are great moisturizing, emollient, and softening agents, work as surfactants and emulsifiers, give consistence to products, are color and fragrance carriers, act as preservatives to maintain products integrity, and can be part of the molecules delivery system. In the past, chemicals have been widely used but today’s market and customers’ demands are oriented towards natural products. Microalgae are an extraordinary source of lipids and other many bioactive molecules. Scientists’ attention to microalgae cultivation for their industrial application is increasing. For the high costs associated, commercialization of microalgae and their products is still not very widespread. The possibility to use biomass for various industrial purposes could make microalgae more economically competitive.

In silico Prediction of Skin Sensitization: Quo vadis?

Skin direct contact with chemical or physical substances is predisposed to allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), producing various allergic reactions, namely rash, blister, or itchy, in the contacted skin area. ACD can be triggered by various extremely complicated adverse outcome pathways (AOPs) remains to be causal for biosafety warrant. As such, commercial products such as ointments or cosmetics can fulfill the topically safe requirements in animal and non-animal models including allergy. Europe, nevertheless, has banned animal tests for the safety evaluations of cosmetic ingredients since 2013, followed by other countries. A variety of non-animal in vitro tests addressing different key events of the AOP, the direct peptide reactivity assay (DPRA), KeratinoSens™, LuSens and human cell line activation test h-CLAT and U-SENS™ have been developed and were adopted in OECD test guideline to identify the skin sensitizers. Other methods, such as the SENS-IS are not yet fully validated and regulatorily accepted. A broad spectrum of in silico models, alternatively, to predict skin sensitization have emerged based on various animal and non-animal data using assorted modeling schemes. In this article, we extensively summarize a number of skin sensitization predictive models that can be used in the biopharmaceutics and cosmeceuticals industries as well as their future perspectives, and the underlined challenges are also discussed.

A perspective on the safety of parabens as preservatives in wound care products

Antimicrobial and/or preservative ingredients incorporated in wound care products are subjected to certain safety restrictions. However, several of those agents, and paraben preservatives in particular, have been criticised. Conflicting reports on the potential of parabens to induce allergic contact dermatitis, and their assumed oestrogen‐like activity, raised public health concerns about their overall safety. Here, we seek to provide a balanced perspective on the most significant purported adverse health effects, and thereby allay the many misconceptions regarding the safety of parabens. Extensive and long‐term monitoring of paraben allergy frequencies illustrate that allergic reactions are quite uncommon, especially when compared with other antimicrobial and preservative agents. The estrogenic potential of parabens was illustrated to be far less potent than that of natural oestrogen receptor ligands, and the etiological significance of their presence in human tissue has not been established. The general consensus based on investigations by both the scientific community and regulatory agencies indicates that, with current safety regulations regarding their use in place, this effective and well‐documented group of preservatives should not warrant drastic measures to replace them. As such, despite the ongoing concern, it is indicated that, when used at typical concentrations, parabens are unlikely to affect human health.

Synthesis of 4-Hydroxybenzoic Acid Derivatives in Escherichia coli

Hydroxybenzoic acids (HBAs) such as 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (4-HBA) and 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid (DHB; protocatechuic acid) and its ester with methanol (methylparaben [MP]) are known to have various functional biological properties, including antibacterial, anticancer, antidiabetic, antiaging, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory activities. Since these compounds are widely used in cosmetic, food, and pharmaceutical industries, the use of renewable feedstocks for the production of HBAs is an area of growing interest. In this study, we used Escherichia coli to synthesize these three hydroxybenzoic acid derivatives (4-HBA, DHB, and MP). We overexpressed ubiC in E. coli to synthesize 4-HBA from chorismate, a substrate that is produced by the shikimate pathway in E. coli. For the synthesis of DHB, an additional gene (pobA) was introduced, while hbad and EHT1 were co-expressed to synthesize MP. To supply more chorismate, we introduced the shikimate gene module construct and selected the best construct for increased yields. Using this approach, 723.5 mg/L 4-HBA, 942.0 mg/L DHB, and 347.7 mg/L MP were synthesized. Our study showed that the shikimate gene module constructs can be applicable to increase the yields of HBA derivatives in HBA-tolerant microorganisms.

Coumarins in Food and Methods of Their Determination

Coumarin is a natural product with aromatic and fragrant characteristics, widespread in the entire plant kingdom. It is found in different plant sources such as vegetables, spices, fruits, and medicinal plants including all parts of the plants-fruits, roots, stems and leaves. Coumarin is found in high concentrations in certain types of cinnamon, which is one of the most frequent sources for human exposure to this substance. However, human exposure to coumarin has not been strictly determined, since there are no systematic measurements of consumption of cinnamon-containing foods. The addition of pure coumarin to foods is not allowed, since large amounts of coumarin can be hepatotoxic. However, according to the new European aroma law, coumarin may be present in foods only naturally or as a flavoring obtained from natural raw materials (as is the case with cinnamon). In this paper, the overview of the current European regulations on coumarin levels in food is presented, along with the most common coumarin food sources, with a special emphasis on cinnamon-containing food. Human exposure to coumarins in food is also reviewed, as well as the methods for determination and separation of coumarin and its derivatives in food.

Risk Assessment of Cosmetics Using Triclosan on Future Generation's Germ Cell Maturation via Lactating Mother Rats

Triclosan (TCS) is a widely used chemical in personal care and household products as an antimicrobial agent but some studies have reported it as being estrogenic. We investigated the influence of TCS on the male reproductive system of postnatal pups. Lactating mother rats (Rattus norvegicus) were given daily doses of 0 mg, 3 mg, and 5 mg/kg/day from the day of delivery until 28 days, equivalent to their natural breastfeeding duration. At 28 days, the male pups of all three groups were sacrificed and their biochemical parameters evaluated. TCS-treated pups had decreased mRNA levels for 3β hydro-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenases (3βHSD), OCT3/4, and androgen receptor (AR) (p < 0.05). The higher dose (5 mg/kg/day) male pups exhibited more significantly affected germ cell maturation and decreased body weight. In summary, TCS-treated lactating mothers passed the deleterious effects to their untreated male pups as exhibited by reduced androgens synthesis and subsequently decreased sperm count.