Vegetable Butters and Oils as Therapeutically and Cosmetically Active Ingredients for Dermal Use: A Review of Clinical Studies

Effect of Almond and Extra Virgin Olive Oils on Maintaining Skin Integrity in Neonates Admitted to the Neonatal ICU

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the effects of extra-virgin olive and almond oils on maintaining skin integrity in neonates admitted to the neonatal ICU.

METHODS

This was a semiexperimental study. The sample comprised 120 term (37-42 weeks) neonates treated in a state hospital in Istanbul, Turkey (May-August 2023), who met the sample criteria (olive oil: 60, almond oil: 60). The data were collected using a newborn identification form, the Neonatal Skin Condition Score, and the DMM Skin Moisture Meter.

RESULTS

The neonates' sex, gestational age, postnatal age, birth weight, length, and head circumference measurements were similar, suggesting no significant differences between the groups (Ps > .05). A statistically significant difference was found between the mean skin hydration levels of neonates treated with almond oil and extra-virgin olive oil on the first, second, and third days of the application, where a higher skin hydration was determined in the extra-virgin olive oil group (P = .024, P = .004, P = .020). However, no statistically significant difference was found between the Neonatal Skin Condition Score scores of neonates treated with almond oil and extra-virgin olive oil before and on all days of the application (1-5 days, P > .05).

CONCLUSIONS

Both extra-virgin olive oil and almond oil increased the stratum corneum hydration in term neonates. The application of extra-virgin olive oil and almond oil did not result in any adverse effects on neonatal skin conditions of neonates admitted to the neonatal ICU.

Cottonseed oil composition and its application to skin health and personal care

The historical use of oils for beauty and hygiene dates back to ancient civilizations. While mineral oil and its derivatives dominated the personal care industry in the 20th century due to chemical stability and low cost, the environmental impact and sustainability concerns have driven a resurgence in the use of vegetable oils. Cottonseed oil derived from Gossypium hirsutum L. (Malvaceae) has been often overlooked in favor of other plant oils, likely due to cotton's primary use as a fiber crop. Yet cottonseed oil stands out in cosmetics for its beneficial linoleic to oleic acid ratio, which supports skin barrier function, and its rich profile of phytosterols and tocopherols that provide higher oxidative stability and extended shelf life. Cottonseed oil is also adaptable for use in a variety of formulations, offering a lightweight, non-greasy emollient base with potential applications in skin care, hair, and cleansing products. This review highlights cottonseed oil as a potentially underutilized ingredient in the personal care sector and emphasizes the need for further research and development to fully exploit its properties.

The Role of Linoleic Acid in Skin and Hair Health: A Review

Lipids are intimately associated with skin condition. This review aims to discuss the function of linoleic acid (LA, 18:2, ω-6), an essential fatty acid, in skin health and hair growth. In skin, LA can be metabolized into ω-6 unsaturated fatty acid, oxidized derivatives and incorporated into complex lipid molecules, including ω-hydroxy-ceramides. Previous research has revealed that skin diseases including acne, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis are associated with disordered LA metabolism. Studies based on animal or skin cell models suggest that LA or LA-rich vegetable oils, topically applied, exhibit diverse biological activities, including the repair of the skin barrier, the promotion of wound healing, skin whitening, photoprotection, anti-inflammatory effects and the stimulation of hair growth. Moreover, the underlying mechanisms of LA's beneficial effects on skin are summarized. Further research on the correlation of LA metabolism and skin disorders, a deeper exploration of the mechanisms underlying the function of LA in skin management and more investigations of its clinical application are required to enhance the understanding and utilization of LA in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Hybrid Carbohydrate-Lipid Nanocarriers: In Vitro Efficacy Gene-Rated by Association of UV-Absorbers and Raspberry Polyphenols Rich-Fraction

Background/Objectives: The study aims to investigate an improved version of lipid nanocarriers (NLCs) (formulated with functional coconut butter and marula oil) by designing hyaluronic acid (HA) decorated NLC co-loaded with dual UVA (butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane, BMDBM), UVB absorbers (ethyl-hexyl-salicylate, EHS) and a Raspberry rich polyphenols fraction (RPRF) for development of more natural NLC-based to-pical formulations. Methods: Quality and quantitative attributes of classic- and HA-NLC have been assigned based on particle size, electrokinetic potential, encapsulation efficiency, spectroscopic characteristics, and high-resolution mass spectrometry. To establish the performance profile of antioxidant activity, release of active substances, sun blocking action, and photostability, in vitro studies were conducted. Results: NLC with an average size of ~150 nm and zeta potentials < -39.5 mV showed 80% and 93.1% of encapsulation efficiency for BMDBM and EHS, and up to 83% for natural RPRF. A long-lasting release of absorbers, with a maximum cumulative release of 2.1% BMDBM and 4.6% EHS was detected. NLC-UV Abs-RPRF-HA assured 72.83% radical scavenging activity. The IC50 for HA-NLC-UV Abs-RPRF was 6.25-fold lower than NLC-UV Abs-HA, which reflects the greater free radical scavenging action. The conditioned NLC-UV Abs-RPRF-HA cream was able to provide a sun protection factor value of 52 and UVA-PF value of 81, which underlines an impressive removal of both categories of UVA and UVB radiation. A significant photoprotective upregulation, four-fold for the topical formulation with NLC-UV Abs-RPRF-HA, resulted after a simulated irradiation process. Conclusions: HA decorated-NLC-conditioned creams might provide a useful platform for developing na-tural and sophisticated dermal delivery systems, for influencing skin permeability, and for synergistically imparting antioxidant and photoprotective actions to cosmetic pro-ducts.

Supercritical CO2 Extraction vs. Hexane Extraction and Cold Pressing: Comparative Analysis of Seed Oils from Six Plant Species

Supercritical fluid extraction using carbon dioxide (SFE-CO2) brings a convincing advance in the production of plant oils used in cosmetics, in fortified foods and dietary supplements, and in pharmaceuticals and medicine. The SFE-CO2-extracted, hexane-extracted, and cold-pressed plant oils of pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo L.), flax (Linum usitatissimum L.), linden (Tilia sp.), poppy (Papaver somniferum L.), apricot (Prunus armeniaca L.), and marigold (Calendula officinalis L.) seeds were investigated in terms of oil yield, fatty acid composition, unsaponifiable matter yield and composition, and the antioxidant activity of unsaponifiable matter. SFE-CO2 proved to be the preferred extraction method for four out of six plant materials, especially for seeds with lower oil content. However, for seeds with higher oil content, such as apricots, cold pressing is a viable alternative. A comparison of fatty acid composition did not reveal significant differences between extraction techniques. SFE-CO2 extraction improved the total phytosterol content of oils, especially pumpkin seed oil. A high variability in the antioxidant potential of the unsaponifiable matter studied was determined, with pumpkin seed oil showing the highest antioxidant activity. A correlation analysis was performed between unsaponifiable composition and antioxidant activity, and showed statistically significant correlations with squalene, cycloartenol, and an unidentified compound. This is the first comparison of the phytosterol compositions of linseed, apricot, linden, and marigold. Through continued optimization, SFE-CO2 has the potential to revolutionize the production of plant oils and provide a sustainable and efficient alternative.

Can aged Camellia oleifera Abel oil truly be used to treat atopic dermatitis?

Atopic dermatitis is an inflammatory skin condition characterized by erythema, eruption, lichenification, and pruritus. Aged Camellia oleifera Abel oil, an effective empirical plant oil utilized by the Gannan Hakka people in China to alleviate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis. However, no scientific studies have been reported to prove whether this oil is truly effective. We conducted this study to confirm whether aged C. oleifera oil could alleviate the symptoms of 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB)-induced atopic dermatitis in mice. Differences in the thickness and weight of the right and left ears were measured. ELISA was used to determine the serum levels of the inflammatory factors IL-4, IgE, IFN-γ, and TNF-α. HE staining was performed to observe inflammatory cell infiltration in the mouse skin lesions. In addition, the metabolites of aged C. oleifera oils were analyzed, and molecular docking was used to assess the binding affinity of the major metabolites to filaggrin, a protein involved in skin barrier function. Animal studies showed that aged C. oleifera oil significantly improved the symptoms of atopic dermatitis. HE staining and measurement of inflammatory factor levels revealed similar results. A total of 41 metabolites were tentatively identified in the oil, with fatty acids emerging as the major metabolites. Molecular docking confirmed that the three most abundant fatty acids, i.e., oleic acid, n-hexadecanoic acid, and octadecanoic acid, bind well to filaggrin. Our results suggest that aged C. oleifera oils can be used to ameliorate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis. Fatty acids may be the major active metabolites responsible for the observed therapeutic effects by reducing transdermal water loss, increasing skin hydration, alleviating DNCB-induced skin barrier alterations, and eliminating itchy scratching caused by dry skin.

Advances in Grape Seed Oil Extraction Techniques and Their Applications in Food Products: A Comprehensive Review and Bibliometric Analysis

Global wine production has grown, resulting in an increase in waste within the industry. This has raised concerns among producers and scientists worldwide, prompting them to seek solutions for its management. The aim is to explore the latest advancements in using grape seed oil as a byproduct and its applications within the food industry. To achieve this, a bibliometric analysis was conducted using the Scopus database covering the period from 1990 to 2023. Additionally, a comprehensive literature review was conducted on extraction techniques, compositions, properties, and innovative applications in food. A bibliometric analysis revealed that interest in grape seed oil has grown over the past fifteen years. The majority of research on this grape byproduct is concentrated in Asian countries. Grape seed oil is a rich source of lipophilic compounds, including fatty acids, phytosterols, and vitamin E, which provide antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. The literature indicates that only oil obtained through pressing is used in food products, such as meat products, dairy drinks, and chocolates, either directly or in emulsions. These findings suggest that further research and innovation are needed to explore how this waste can be used in new food sources, particularly in countries with high wine production.

Comparative Analysis of Grape Seed Oil, Linseed Oil, and a Blend: In Vivo Effects of Supplementation

Grape seeds are rich in bioactive substances, including polyphenols, terpenoids, and phytosterols. Linseed (Linum usitatissimum L.) boasts a high concentration of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), lignans, phytoestrogens, and soluble fibers, all contributing to its therapeutic potential. In this study, we pioneered the formulation of an oil blend (GL) combining grape seed oil (G) and golden linseed oil (GL) in equal volumes (1:1 (v/v)) and we evaluated in terms of the nutritional, physical, and chemical properties and their influence in an in vivo experimental model. We analyzed the oils by performing physical-chemical analyses, examining the oxidative stability using Rancimat; conducting thermal analyses via thermogravimetry/derivative thermogravimetry (TG/DTG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), performing optical UV-vis absorption analyses; examining the fluorescence emission-excitation matrix, total carotenoids, and color, and conducting metabolic assessments in an in vivo experimental trial. The fatty acid profile presented a higher fraction of linoleic acid (C18:2) in G and GL and alpha-linolenic acid (C18:3) in L. The acidity and peroxide indices were within the recommended ranges. The TG/DTG, DSC, and Rancimat analyses revealed similar behaviors, and the optical analyses revealed color variations caused by carotenoid contents in L and GL. In the in vivo trial, G (G2: 2000 mg/kg/day) promoted lower total consumption, and the blend (GL: 2000 mg/kg/day) group exhibited less weight gain per gram of consumed food. The group with G supplementation (G2: 2000 mg/kg/day) and GL had the highest levels of HDL-c. The group with L supplementation (L2: 2000 mg/kg/day) had the lowest total cholesterol level. The L2, G1 (1000 mg/kg/day), and G2 groups exhibited the lowest MCP-1 and TNF-α values. Additionally, the lowest adipocyte areas occurred in G and GL. Our results suggest that this combination is of high quality for consumption and can influence lipid profiles, markers of inflammation, and antioxidant status.

Amaranthus cruentus L. Seed Oil Counteracts UVA-Radiation-Induced Inhibition of Collagen Biosynthesis and Wound Healing in Human Skin Fibroblasts

The effect of Amaranthus cruentus L. seed oil (AmO) on collagen biosynthesis and wound healing was studied in cultured human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA radiation. It was found that UVA radiation inhibited collagen biosynthesis, prolidase activity, and expression of the β1-integrin receptor, and phosphorylated ERK1/2 and TGF-β, while increasing the expression of p38 kinase. The AmO at 0.05-0.15% counteracted the above effects induced by UVA radiation in fibroblasts. UVA radiation also induced the expression and nuclear translocation of the pro-inflammatory NF-κB factor and enhanced the COX-2 expression. AmO effectively suppressed the expression of these pro-inflammatory factors induced by UVA radiation. Expressions of β1 integrin and IGF-I receptors were decreased in the fibroblasts exposed to UVA radiation, while AmO counteracted the effects. Furthermore, AmO stimulated the fibroblast's migration in a wound healing model, thus facilitating the repair process following exposure of fibroblasts to UVA radiation. These data suggest the potential of AmO to counteract UVA-induced skin damage.

Bathing in Atopic Dermatitis in Pediatric Age: Why, How and When

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory skin disease. The treatment plays an important role in influencing the patients' quality of life. The basic management consists of appropriate skin cleansing, including bathing and eventually using bathing additives. Recommendations regarding frequency and duration of bathing, water temperature and usefulness of bathing additives are widely different, often leading to confusion among patients. This review aims to give insights into the best bathing practices and the use of bathing additives in atopic dermatitis in children. Several bathing additives, including bleach baths, commercial baby cleansers, bath baby oils and bath salt, appear to be promising adjunctive therapies for atopic dermatitis due to their anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-pruritus and skin barrier repair properties through different mechanisms of action. However, their efficacy and safety are not fully understood in some cases. The usefulness of other bath additives, such as acidic and more natural substances (green tea extracts, pine tar, sodium bicarbonate), is still under investigation. Further studies are needed to determine their optimal use to achieve clinical benefit safely.

Plants with cosmetic uses

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Resolved Psoriasis with Abundant Oleic Acid in Stratum Corneum Exhibits Lower T-Cell-Driven IL-17 Signature

Relapses of psoriasis involve T cells that stem and survive in the skin. Inherited from previous flares, the tissue-resident memory T cells are epidermal IL-17-producing CD8+ and IL-22-producing CD4+ T cells. Because the capacity of resident memory T cells to take in fatty acids is essential for their residence and function, the surface composition of fatty acids may affect underlying T-cell populations. In patients treated with biologics, we used gas chromatography/mass spectrometry to decipher the fatty acid composition in both resolved and nonlesional sites. Skin T cells were activated by OKT-3 in explants from the same body sites to perform bulk transcriptomic analysis (Nanostring). The fatty acid composition differed between skin from healthy donors and normal-looking skin of patients with psoriasis but not further between nonlesional and resolved skin. Patients in whom the resolved skin was rich in oleic acid had lower T-cell-driven IL-17 epidermal transcriptomic signature upon activation of T cells in skin explants. The skin lipid composition is linked with the functions of the underlying epidermal T cells. Testing the modulating effect of custom fatty acids on skin resident T cells could help with coming closer to disease oblivion in inflammatory skin diseases.

Preliminary Approaches to Cosmeceuticals Emulsions Based on N-ProlylPalmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetat-Bakuchiol Complex Intended to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress

This study focuses on the development of a performant formulation for O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions, which can be incorporated into novel dermato-cosmetic products or used as such. The O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions contain an active complex based on a plant-derived monoterpene phenol, bakuchiol (BAK) and a signaling peptide named n-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate (TPA). As a dispersed phase, we used a mix of vegetable oils, and as a continuous phase, Rosa damascena hydrosol was employed. Three emulsions containing different concentrations of the active complex were formulated (0.5% BAK + 0.5% TPA = E.1.1., 1% BAK + 1%TPA = E.1.2., 1% BAK + 2% TPA = E.1.3.). Stability testing was performed through sensory analysis, stability after centrifugation, conductivity and optical microscopy. A preliminary in vitro study regarding the diffusion ability of antioxidants through chicken skin was also undertaken. DPPH and ABTS assays were used to highlight the optimal concentration and combination in the formulation in terms of antioxidant properties and safety level of the active complex (BAK/TPA). Our results showed that the active complex used for preparing emulsions with BAK and TPA showed good antioxidant activity and is suitable for obtaining topical products with potential antiaging effects.

Evaluation of the Phytochemistry-Therapeutic Activity Relationship for Grape Seeds Oil

Seeds' abundant biologically active compounds make them a suitable primary platform for the production of natural extracts, innovative foods, medicines, and cosmetics. High levels of industrial and agricultural residues and byproducts are generated during the processing of grapes, although some parts can also be repurposed. This paper examines the phytochemical composition, manufacturing processes, and health-improving attributes of many varieties of grape oil derived using various extraction methods. Since the results are influenced by a range of factors, they are expressed differently among studies, and the researchers employ a variety of measuring units, making it difficult to convey the results. The primary topics covered in most papers are grape seed oil's lipophilic fatty acids, tocopherols, and phytosterols. In addition, new methods for extracting grape seed oil should therefore be designed; these methods must be affordable, energy-efficient, and environmentally friendly in order to increase the oil's quality by extracting bioactive components and thereby increasing its biological activity in order to become part of the overall management of multiple diseases.