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Salem Y, Rajha HN, Franjieh D, Hoss I, Manca ML, Manconi M, Castangia I, Perra M, Maroun RG, Louka N. Stability and Antioxidant Activity of Hydro-Glyceric Extracts Obtained from Different Grape Seed Varieties Incorporated in Cosmetic Creams. Antioxidants (Basel) 2022; 11:antiox11071348. [PMID: 35883839 PMCID: PMC9311904 DOI: 10.3390/antiox11071348] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/06/2022] [Revised: 07/05/2022] [Accepted: 07/08/2022] [Indexed: 12/15/2022] Open
Abstract
Grape seeds are agro-industrial by-products, which if improperly managed, may be responsible for socioeconomic and environmental problems. Nevertheless, it is possible to effectively valorize them by means of extraction of the bioactive compounds, especially the antioxidant phenolic molecules, using a safe, green, and environmentally-friendly extractive medium (i.e., hydro-glyceric solution). In the present study, the extraction was performed using seeds from two Lebanese varieties, Obeidi and Asswad Karech, and three international varieties, Marselan, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc. The type and amount of phenolic compounds were identified by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). Marselan was the extract richer in catechins (132.99 ± 9.81 μg/g of dried matter), and it also contained a higher amount of phenolic compounds (49.08 ± 0.03 mg of gallic acid equivalent/g of dry matter and 10.02 ± 0.24 mg of proanthocyanidin content/g of dry matter). The antioxidant capacity of the extracts was assessed using three different colorimetric assays including 2,2-DiPhenyl-1-PicrylHydrazyl (DPPH), CUPRIC ion Reducing Antioxidant Capacity (CUPRAC), and Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP). As expected, Marselan exhibited the highest antioxidant activity; as well, the total phenolic and proanthocyanidin content were the highest. The stability of the Marselan extract incorporated into a commercial cream, was performed at three different temperatures (4, 25, and 50 °C), and four different concentrations (5, 4, 3, 2%), over a period of 4 months, using different methods such as centrifugation, Heat-Shock Cycles, pH, and viscosity. All Marselan hydro-glyceric extract formulations were proven to be stable over the entire 4 months, where the highest stability was achieved at 4 °C and the least at 50 °C. This study supports the suitability of the incorporation of phenolic extracts into commercial creams to enrich the cosmetic industry with effective, natural, and safe skincare products.
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Affiliation(s)
- Yara Salem
- Centre d’Analyses et de Recherche, Unité de Recherche Technologies et Valorisations Agro-Alimentaire, Faculté des Sciences, Université Saint-Joseph de Beyrouth, P.O. Box 17-5208, Beirut 1104 2020, Lebanon; (Y.S.); (D.F.); (I.H.); (R.G.M.); (N.L.)
| | - Hiba N. Rajha
- Ecole Supérieure d’Ingénieurs de Beyrouth (ESIB), Université Saint-Joseph de Beyrouth, CST Mkalles Mar Roukos, Beirut 1107 2050, Lebanon
- Correspondence: (H.N.R.); (M.L.M.)
| | - Diana Franjieh
- Centre d’Analyses et de Recherche, Unité de Recherche Technologies et Valorisations Agro-Alimentaire, Faculté des Sciences, Université Saint-Joseph de Beyrouth, P.O. Box 17-5208, Beirut 1104 2020, Lebanon; (Y.S.); (D.F.); (I.H.); (R.G.M.); (N.L.)
| | - Israa Hoss
- Centre d’Analyses et de Recherche, Unité de Recherche Technologies et Valorisations Agro-Alimentaire, Faculté des Sciences, Université Saint-Joseph de Beyrouth, P.O. Box 17-5208, Beirut 1104 2020, Lebanon; (Y.S.); (D.F.); (I.H.); (R.G.M.); (N.L.)
| | - Maria Letizia Manca
- Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, Via Ospedale n.72, 09124 Cagliari, Italy; (M.M.); (I.C.); (M.P.)
- Correspondence: (H.N.R.); (M.L.M.)
| | - Maria Manconi
- Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, Via Ospedale n.72, 09124 Cagliari, Italy; (M.M.); (I.C.); (M.P.)
| | - Ines Castangia
- Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, Via Ospedale n.72, 09124 Cagliari, Italy; (M.M.); (I.C.); (M.P.)
| | - Matteo Perra
- Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, Via Ospedale n.72, 09124 Cagliari, Italy; (M.M.); (I.C.); (M.P.)
| | - Richard G. Maroun
- Centre d’Analyses et de Recherche, Unité de Recherche Technologies et Valorisations Agro-Alimentaire, Faculté des Sciences, Université Saint-Joseph de Beyrouth, P.O. Box 17-5208, Beirut 1104 2020, Lebanon; (Y.S.); (D.F.); (I.H.); (R.G.M.); (N.L.)
| | - Nicolas Louka
- Centre d’Analyses et de Recherche, Unité de Recherche Technologies et Valorisations Agro-Alimentaire, Faculté des Sciences, Université Saint-Joseph de Beyrouth, P.O. Box 17-5208, Beirut 1104 2020, Lebanon; (Y.S.); (D.F.); (I.H.); (R.G.M.); (N.L.)
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