Sustainable Sources from Aquatic Organisms for Cosmeceuticals Ingredients

Marine cosmetics and the blue bioeconomy: From sourcing to success stories

As the global population continues to grow, so does the demand for longer, healthier lives and environmentally responsible choices. Consumers are increasingly drawn to naturally sourced products with proven health and wellbeing benefits. The marine environment presents a promising yet underexplored resource for the cosmetics industry, offering bioactive compounds with the potential for safe and biocompatible ingredients. This manuscript provides a comprehensive overview of the potential of marine organisms for cosmetics production, highlighting marine-derived compounds and their applications in skin/hair/oral-care products, cosmeceuticals and more. It also lays down critical safety considerations and addresses the methodologies for sourcing marine compounds, including harvesting, the biorefinery concept, use of systems biology for enhanced product development, and the relevant regulatory landscape. The review is enriched by three case studies: design of macroalgal skincare products in Iceland, establishment of a microalgal cosmetics spin-off in Italy, and the utilization of marine proteins for cosmeceutical applications.

Production and Partial Characterization of Bioactive Compounds from Underutilized Marine Bioresources for a Cosmetic Formulation: Cytotoxicity and Bioactivity Evaluation

Hydrolyzed collagen, glycogen, and hyaluronic acid, obtained through the biotechnological valorization of underutilized marine bioresources, fulfill cosmetic industry requirements for sustainable products produced under circular economy principles. Hydrolyzed collagen was obtained by hydrolyzing blue shark collagen with papain and ultrafiltration. Glycogen was isolated from industrial mussel cooking wastewaters through ultrafiltration, precipitation, and selective polysaccharide separation. Hyaluronic acid was produced by fermentation, purification, and depolymerization. The main objective was to test the feasibility of including these three biomolecules in a cosmetic formulation as bioactive compounds. For this, the in vitro irritant potential of the three ingredients and also that of the cosmetic formulation was assayed according to the Reconstituted Human Epithelium Test method OECD 439. Moreover, an in vitro assessment of the effect of hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations on mRNA expression and collagen type I synthesis was evaluated in adult human fibroblasts. This study establishes, for the first time, the potential use of particular hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations as stimulators of collagen I synthesis in fibroblast cultures. Besides, it provide safety information regarding potential use of those biomolecules in the formulation of a cosmetic preparation positively concluding that both, ingredients and cosmetic preparation, resulted not irritant for skin following an international validated reference method.

Renewable Carbon Materials as Electrodes for High-Performance Supercapacitors: From Marine Biowaste to High Specific Surface Area Porous Biocarbons

Waste, in particular, biowaste, can be a valuable source of novel carbon materials. Renewable carbon materials, such as biomass-derived carbons, have gained significant attention recently as potential electrode materials for various electrochemical devices, including batteries and supercapacitors. The importance of renewable carbon materials as electrodes can be attributed to their sustainability, low cost, high purity, high surface area, and tailored properties. Fish waste recovered from the fish processing industry can be used for energy applications and prioritizing the circular economy principles. Herein, a method is proposed to prepare a high surface area biocarbon from glycogen extracted from mussel cooking wastewater. The biocarbon materials were characterized using a Brunauer-Emmett-Teller surface area analyzer to determine the specific surface area and pore size and by scanning electron microscopy coupled with energy-dispersive X-ray analysis, Raman analysis, attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, and transmission electron microscopy. The electrochemical characterization was performed using a three-electrode system, utilizing a choline chloride-based deep eutectic solvent (DES) as an eco-friendly and sustainable electrolyte. Optimal time and temperature allowed the preparation of glycogen-based carbon materials, with a specific surface area of 1526 m² g^-1, a pore volume of 0.38 cm³ g^-1, and an associated specific capacitance of 657 F g^-1 at a current density of 1 A g^-1, at 30 °C. The optimal material was scaled up to a two-electrode supercapacitor using a DES-based solid-state electrolyte (SSE@DES). This prototype delivered a maximum capacitance of 703 F g^-1 at a 1 A g^-1 of current density, showing 75% capacitance retention over 1000 cycles, delivering the highest energy density of 0.335 W h kg^-1 and power density of 1341 W kg^-1. Marine waste can be a sustainable source for producing nanoporous carbon materials to be incorporated as electrode materials in energy storage devices.

The Potential of Algae in the Nutricosmetic Sector

Seaweeds or algae are marine autotrophic organisms. They produce nutrients (e.g., proteins, carbohydrates, etc.) essential for the survival of living organisms as they participate in biochemical processes and non-nutritive molecules (such as dietary fibers and secondary metabolites), which can improve their physiological functions. Seaweed polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, terpenoids, pigments, and polyphenols have biological properties that can be used to develop food supplements and nutricosmetic products as they can act as antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory compounds. This review examines the (primary and secondary) metabolites produced by algae, the most recent evidence of their effect on human health conditions, with particular attention to what concerns the skin and hair's well-being. It also evaluates the industrial potential of recovering these metabolites from biomass produced by algae used to clean wastewater. The results demonstrate that algae can be considered a natural source of bioactive molecules for well-being formulations. The primary and secondary metabolites' upcycling can be an exciting opportunity to safeguard the planet (promoting a circular economy) and, at the same time, obtain low-cost bioactive molecules for the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries from low-cost, raw, and renewable materials. Today's lack of methodologies for recovering bioactive molecules in large-scale processes limits practical realization.

Exploring the potential of Halomonas levan and its derivatives as active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations

Demand on natural products that contain biological ingredients mimicking growth factors and cytokines made natural polysaccharides popular in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Levan is the β-(2-6) linked, nontoxic, biocompatible, water-soluble, film former fructan polymer that has diverse applications in pharmacy and cosmeceutical industries with its moisturizing, whitening, anti-irritant, anti-aging and slimming activities. Driven by the limited reports on few structurally similar levan polymers, this study presents the first systematic investigation on the effects of structurally different extremophilic Halomonas levan polysaccharides on human skin epidermis cells. In-vitro experiments with microbially produced linear Halomonas levan (HL), its hydrolyzed, (hHL) and sulfonated (ShHL) derivatives as well as enzymatically produced branched levan (EL) revealed increased keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation (113-118 %), improved skin barrier function through induced expressions of involucrin (2.0 and 6.43 fold changes for HL and EL) and filaggrin (1.74 and 3.89 fold changes for hHL and ShHL) genes and increased type I collagen (2.63 for ShHL) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (1.41 for HL) gene expressions together with fast wound healing ability within 24 h (100 %, HL) on 2D wound models clearly showed that HL and its derivatives have high potential to be used as natural active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations.

Extract of Bletilla formosana callus elevates cellular antioxidative activity via Nrf2/HO-1 signaling pathway and inhibits melanogenesis in zebrafish

BACKGROUND

Bletilla species are endangered terrestrial orchids used in natural skin care formulas in Asia for a long history. In order to explore the bioactivity potential of Bletilla species as a cosmetic ingredient in a sustainable resource manner, the callus of Bletilla formosana (Hayata) Schltr. was established and extracted by an eco-friendly supercritical fluid CO₂ extraction (SFE-CO₂) method. The intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity and antioxidation-related gene expression of the callus extract were evaluated in both Hs68 fibroblast cells and HaCaT keratinocytes. The melanogenesis-inhibitory effect was investigated in B16F10 melanoma cells and in an in vivo zebrafish model.

RESULTS

The calli of B. formosana were propagated for 10-15 generations with a consistent yellow friable appearance and then subjected to SFE-CO₂ extraction to obtain a yellow pasty extract. Obvious intracellular ROS scavenging activity of the extract was detected in both Hs68 and HaCaT cells with 64.30 ± 8.27% and 32.50 ± 4.05% reduction at the concentration of 250 μg/mL. Moreover, marked expression levels of heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and (NAD(P)H) quinone oxidoreductase-1 (NQO1) genes were detected after 6-h and 24-h treatments. These results indicate the cellular antioxidative activity of B. formosana callus extract was probably activated via the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)/HO-1 signaling pathway. Melanogenesis-inhibitory effect of the extract was observed in α-MSH stimuli-inducing B16F10 cells with 28.46% inhibition of intracellular melanin content at the concentration of 50 μg/ml. The effect was confirmed with in vivo zebrafish embryos that showed a relative pigmentation density of 80.27 ± 7.98% at the concentration of 100 μg/mL without toxicity.

CONCLUSION

Our results shed light on a sustainable utilization of Bletilla species as a potential ingredient for skin.

Potential Cosmetic Active Ingredients Derived from Marine By-Products

The market demand for marine-based cosmetics has shown a tremendous growth rate in the last decade. Marine resources represent a promising source of novel bioactive compounds for new cosmetic ingredient development. However, concern about sustainability also becomes an issue that should be considered in developing cosmetic ingredients. The fisheries industry (e.g., fishing, farming, and processing) generates large amounts of leftovers containing valuable substances, which are potent sources of cosmeceutical ingredients. Several bioactive substances could be extracted from the marine by-product that can be utilized as a potent ingredient to develop cosmetics products. Those bioactive substances (e.g., collagen from fish waste and chitin from crustacean waste) could be utilized as anti-photoaging, anti-wrinkle, skin barrier, and hair care products. From this perspective, this review aims to approach the potential active ingredients derived from marine by-products for cosmetics and discuss the possible activity of those active ingredients in promoting human beauty. In addition, this review also covers the prospect and challenge of using marine by-products toward the emerging concept of sustainable blue cosmetics.

Rhodophyta as Potential Sources of Photoprotectants, Antiphotoaging Compounds, and Hydrogels for Cosmeceutical Application

Seaweeds are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic and photosynthetic organisms, and are a source of chemical diversity with powerful biological activities for diversified industrial applications including cosmeceuticals. Red seaweeds (Rhodophyta) are good sources of Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) for photoprotectant and antiphotoaging compounds. In addition, Rhodophyta are also good sources for hydrogel compounds that are used widely in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries as gelling agents, moisturizers or for their antiphotoaging effects. Our survey and ongoing studies revealed that the biodiversity of Indonesian Rhodophyta is rich and is a treasure trove for cosmeceutical agents including MAA and hydrogels. This study delivers valuable information for identifying potential red seaweeds in screening and searching for cosmeceutical agents.

Molecular Weight Analysis of Blue Shark (Prionace glauca) Collagen Hydrolysates by GPC-LS; Effect of High Molecular Weight Hydrolysates on Fibroblast Cultures: mRNA Collagen Type I Expression and Synthesis

High molecular weight (Mw) collagen hydrolysates have been demonstrated to produce a higher synthesis of collagen type I mRNA. Mw determination is a key factor maximizing the effect of collagen hydrolysates on collagen type I synthesis by fibroblasts. This work aimed to achieve a high average Mw in Blue Shark Collagen Hydrolysate, studying different hydrolysis parameters by GPC-LS analysis and testing its effect on mRNA Type I collagen expression. Analysis revealed differences in blue shark collagen hydrolysates Mw depending on hydrolysis conditions. Papain leads to obtaining a significantly higher Mw hydrolysate than Alcalase at different times of hydrolysis and at different enzyme/substrate ratios. Besides, the time of the hydrolysis factor is more determinant than the enzyme/substrate ratio factor for obtaining a higher or lower hydrolysate Mw when using Papain as the enzyme. Contrary, Alcalase hydrolysates resulted in similar Mw with no significant differences between different conditions of hydrolysis assayed. Blue shark collagen hydrolysate showing the highest Mw showed neither cytotoxic nor proliferation effect on fibroblast cell culture. Besides, it exhibited an increasing effect on both mRNA expression and pro-collagen I production.

Essential Oils and Their Individual Components in Cosmetic Products

The current consumer demands together with the international regulations have pushed the cosmetic industry to seek new active ingredients from natural renewable sources for manufacturing more eco-sustainability and safe products, with botanical extract being an almost unlimited source of these new actives. Essential oils (EOs) emerge as very common natural ingredients in cosmetics and toiletries as a result of both their odorous character for the design and manufacturing of fragrances and perfumes, and the many beneficial properties of their individual components (EOCs), e.g., anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, and, nowadays, the cosmetic industry includes EOs or different mixtures of their individual components (EOCs), either as active ingredients or as preservatives, in various product ranges (e.g., moisturizers, lotions and cleanser in skin care cosmetics; conditioners, masks or antidandruff products in hair care products; lipsticks, or fragrances in perfumery). However, the unique chemical profile of each individual essential oil is associated with different benefits, and hence it is difficult to generalize their potential applications in cosmetics and toiletries, which often require the effort of formulators in seeking suitable mixtures of EOs or EOCs for obtaining specific benefits in the final products. This work presents an updated review of the available literature related to the most recent advances in the application of EOs and EOCs in the manufacturing of cosmetic products. Furthermore, some specific aspects related to the safety of EOs and EOCs in cosmetics will be discussed. It is expected that the information contained in this comprehensive review can be exploited by formulators in the design and optimization of cosmetic formulations containing botanical extracts.

Sustainable Materials from Fish Industry Waste for Electrochemical Energy Systems

Fish industry waste is attracting growing interest for the production of environmentally friendly materials for several different applications, due to the potential for reduced environmental impact and increased socioeconomic benefits. Recently, the application of fish industry waste for the synthesis of value-added materials and energy storage systems represents a feasible route to strengthen the overall sustainability of energy storage product lines. This review focused on an in-depth outlook on the advances in fish byproduct-derived materials for energy storage devices, including lithium-ion batteries (LIBs), sodium-ion (NIBs) batteries, lithium-sulfur batteries (LSBs), supercapacitors and protein batteries. For each of these, the latest applications were presented together with approaches to improve the electrochemical performance of the obtained materials. By analyzing the recent literature on this topic, this review aimed to contribute to further advances in the sustainability of energy storage devices.

Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The interest in seaweeds for cosmetic, cosmeceutics, and nutricosmetics is increasing based on the demand for natural ingredients. Seaweeds offer advantages in relation to their renewable character, wide distribution, and the richness and versatility of their valuable bioactive compounds, which can be used as ingredients, as additives, and as active agents in the formulation of skin care products. Bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, peptides, amino acids, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, are responsible for the biological properties associated with seaweeds. Seaweed fractions can also offer technical features, such as thickening, gelling, emulsifying, texturizing, or moistening to develop cohesive matrices. Furthermore, the possibility of valorizing industrial waste streams and algal blooms makes them an attractive, low cost, raw and renewable material. This review presents an updated summary of the activities of different seaweed compounds and fractions based on scientific and patent literature.

Thirtieth Anniversary of the Discovery of Laxaphycins. Intriguing Peptides Keeping a Part of Their Mystery

Lipopeptides are a class of compounds generally produced by microorganisms through hybrid biosynthetic pathways involving non-ribosomal peptide synthase and a polyketyl synthase. Cyanobacterial-produced laxaphycins are examples of this family of compounds that have expanded over the past three decades. These compounds benefit from technological advances helping in their synthesis and characterization, as well as in deciphering their biosynthesis. The present article attempts to summarize most of the articles that have been published on laxaphycins. The current knowledge on the ecological role of these complex sets of compounds will also be examined.

Recent Applications of Biopolymers Derived from Fish Industry Waste in Food Packaging

Fish waste is attracting growing interest as a new raw material for biopolymer production in different application fields, mainly in food packaging, with significant economic and environmental advantages. This review paper summarizes the recent advances in the valorization of fish waste for the preparation of biopolymers for food packaging applications. The issues related to fishery industry waste and fish by-catch and the potential for re-using these by-products in a circular economy approach have been presented in detail. Then, all the biopolymer typologies derived from fish waste with potential applications in food packaging, such as muscle proteins, collagen, gelatin, chitin/chitosan, have been described. For each of them, the recent applications in food packaging, in the last five years, have been overviewed with an emphasis on smart packaging applications. Despite the huge industrial potential of fish industry by-products, most of the reviewed applications are still at lab-scale. Therefore, the technological challenges for a reliable exploitation and recovery of several potentially valuable molecules and the strategies to improve the barrier, mechanical and thermal performance of each kind of biopolymer have been analyzed.