Exploring the Potential of Icelandic Seaweeds Extracts Produced by Aqueous Pulsed Electric Fields-Assisted Extraction for Cosmetic Applications

Determination of the Nutrient and Toxic Element Content of Wild-Collected and Cultivated Seaweeds from Hawai'i

For centuries, Hawaiians have gathered seaweed for food, medicine, and ceremonial purposes. Seaweed contains nutrients, but some varieties can accumulate toxic elements. We measured target macrominerals (Na, Mg, P, K, Ca), microminerals (B, V, Mn, Co, Cu, Zn, Mo), and nonessential/toxic elements (As, Sr, Cd, Sn, Hg, Pb, and U) in a sample of wild-collected and cultivated seaweeds from Hawai'i. The samples consisted of brown (Sargassum aquifolium, Sargassum echinocarpum), red (Gracilaria parvispora, Halymenia formosa, Halymenia hawaiiana), and green (Ulva ohnoi) seaweed. Elemental composition was determined by inductively coupled plasma (ICP)-atomic emission spectroscopy and ICP-mass spectrometry (MS). Speciation of As was conducted by using liquid chromatography-ICP-MS. S. echinocarpum per 80 g serving was high in Ca (~37% daily value [DV]), U. ohnoi was high in Mg (~40%DV), H. formosa was high in Fe (~40%DV), and G. parvispora was high in Mn (~128%DV). In this study, the highest amounts of toxic elements were observed in S. aquifolium and S. echinocarpum (27.6 mg inorganic As/kg fdw), G. parvispora (43.3 mg Pb/kg fdw) and H. formosa (46.6 mg Pb/kg fdw). These results indicate that although seaweeds from Hawai'i contain a variety of nutrients, some species can accumulate high amounts of toxic elements.

Polyphenol Extraction from Food (by) Products by Pulsed Electric Field: A Review

Nowadays, more and more researchers engage in studies regarding the extraction of bioactive compounds from natural sources. To this end, plenty of studies have been published on this topic, with the interest in the field growing exponentially. One major aim of such studies is to maximize the extraction yield and, simultaneously, to use procedures that adhere to the principles of green chemistry, as much as possible. It was not until recently that pulsed electric field (PEF) technology has been put to good use to achieve this goal. This new technique exhibits many advantages, compared to other techniques, and they have successfully been reaped for the production of extracts with enhanced concentrations in bioactive compounds. In this advancing field of research, a good understanding of the existing literature is mandatory to develop more advanced concepts in the future. The aim of this review is to provide a thorough discussion of the most important applications of PEF for the enhancement of polyphenols extraction from fresh food products and by-products, as well as to discuss the current limitations and the prospects of the field.

Recent status of sesaminol and its glucosides: Synthesis, metabolism, and biological activities

Sesamum indicum is a major and important oilseed crop that is believed to promote human health in many countries, especially in China. Sesame seeds contain two types of lignans: lipid-soluble lignans and water-soluble glucosylated lignans. The major glucosylated lignans are sesaminol glucosides (SGs). So far, four sesaminol isomers and four SGs are identified. During the naturally occurring process of SGs production, sesaminol is generated first from two molecules of E-coniferyl alcohol, and then the sugar is added to the sesaminol one by one, leading to production of SGs. Sesaminol can be prepared from SGs, from sesamolin, and through artificial synthesis. SGs are metabolized in the liver and intestine and are then transported to other tissues. They exhibit several biological activities, most of which are based on their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. In this paper, we present an overview of the current status of research on sesaminol and SGs. We have also discussed their synthesis, preparation, metabolism, and biological activities. It has been suggested that sesaminol and SGs are important biological substances with strong antioxidant properties in vitro and in vivo and are widely used in the food industry, medicine, and cosmetic products. The recovery and utilization of SGs from sesame seed cake after oil processing will generate massive economic benefits.

New Insight on the Cytoprotective/Antioxidant Pathway Keap1/Nrf2/HO-1 Modulation by Ulva intestinalis Extract and Its Selenium Nanoparticles in Rats with Carrageenan-Induced Paw Edema

Currently, there is growing interest in exploring natural bioactive compounds with anti-inflammatory potential to overcome the side effects associated with the well-known synthetic chemicals. Algae are a rich source of bioactive molecules with numerous applications in medicine. Herein, the anti-inflammatory effect of Ulva intestinalis alone or selenium nanoparticles loaded with U. intestinalis (UISeNPs), after being fully characterized analytically, was investigated by a carrageenan-induced inflammation model. The pretreated groups with free U. intestinalis extract (III and IV) and the rats pretreated with UISeNPs (groups V and VI) showed significant increases in the gene expression of Keap1, with fold increases of 1.9, 2.27, 2.4, and 3.32, respectively. Similarly, a remarkable increase in the Nrf2 gene expression, with 2.09-, 2.36-, 2.59-, and 3.7-fold increases, was shown in the same groups, respectively. Additionally, the groups III, IV, V, and VI revealed a significantly increased HO-1 gene expression with a fold increase of 1.48, 1.61, 1.87, and 2.84, respectively. Thus, both U. intestinalis extract and the UISeNPs boost the expression of the cytoprotective/antioxidant pathway Keap1/Nrf2/HO-1, with the UISeNPs having the upper hand over the free extract. In conclusion, U. intestinalis and UISeNPs have proven promising anti-inflammatory activity through mediating different underlying mechanisms.

Inhibitory Effects of Caulerpa racemosa, Ulva intestinalis, and Lobophora challengeriae on Tyrosinase Activity and α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells

Melanogenesis involves a synthesis of melanin pigment and is regulated by tyrosinase. The addition of whitening agents with tyrosinase-inhibiting properties in cosmetics is becoming increasingly important. In this study, the ethanolic extracts from twelve seaweeds were assessed for tyrosinase-inhibiting activity using mushroom tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. The highest mushroom tyrosinase inhibition (IC50) was observed with Lobophora challengeriae (0.15 ± 0.01 mg mL−1); treatment was more effective than kojic acid (IC50 = 0.35 ± 0.05 mg mL−1), a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor. Three seaweeds, Caulerpa racemosa, Ulva intestinalis, and L. challengeriae, were further investigated for their ability to reduce melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. The ethanolic extracts of C. racemosa, U. intestinalis, and L. challengeriae showed inhibitory effects by reducing melanin and intracellular tyrosinase levels in B16F10 cells treated with α-melanocyte stimulating hormone in a dose-dependent manner. C. racemosa (33.71%) and L. challengeriae (36.14%) at 25 µg mL−1 reduced melanin production comparable to that of kojic acid (36.18%). L. challengeriae showed a stronger inhibition of intracellular tyrosinase (decreased from 165.23% to 46.30%) than kojic acid (to 72.50%). Thus, ethanolic extracts from C. racemosa, U. intestinalis, and L. challengeriae can be good sources of natural tyrosinase inhibitors and therapeutic or cosmetic agents in the future.

Extraction of Mycosporine-like Amino Acids and Proteins from the Agarophyte Gelidium corneum Using Pulsed Power Techniques

Gelidium corneum (syn. sesquipedale) is an industrially and ecologically important species of red alga used for the production of high-quality agar. However, the species is also of growing interest for the production of other valuable compounds, such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), with potential cosmeceutical and biomedical applications. Novel methods using two pulsed power techniques, high-voltage electrical discharges (HVED) and pulsed electrical fields (PEF), were evaluated for efficacy of MAA extraction. Algal suspensions were prepared at two ratios (1:20 and 1:40 w:v). Four different extraction protocols were compared: (i) high-voltage electrical discharges, (ii) pulsed electric fields, (iii) maceration at room temperature, and (iv) maceration at 50 °C. The algae were treated in three states: freshly harvested, dried, and powdered. HVED and PEF treatments were effective when performed on fresh algae, and in particular the HVED treatment resulted in yields of MAAs twenty times higher than the control: 0.81 ± 0.05 mg/g_{Dry Weight (DW)} vs. 0.037 ± 0.002 mg/g_DW. This effect was not observed to the same extent when the algae were dried or powdered, although HVED remained the most selective method overall.

Chemical Characterization and Bioactive Properties of Wine Lees and Diatomaceous Earth towards the Valorization of Underexploited Residues as Potential Cosmeceuticals

Annually, wine production is responsible for generating large quantities of residues, which are frequently disposed of and not valorized. So far, different studies have been conducted on grape pomace, yet less attention has been paid to other residues, such as wine lees and diatomaceous earth used in wine filtration. In this context, this study aimed to evaluate and compare the phenolic profile of these underexploited winemaking residues and assess their biological potential based on their antioxidant, antimicrobial, cytotoxic, and anti-aging activities (inhibition of tyrosinase and collagenase). Twenty-nine phenolic compounds, including twelve anthocyanins, were tentatively identified in the residues, with red grape pomace showing the highest diversity of compounds. The diatomaceous earth presented the highest content of non-anthocyanin phenolic compounds, being particularly rich in flavan-3-ols and myricetin-O-hexoside, and also presenting two anthocyanins. This sample also showed a high antioxidant activity, evidencing the best result in the reducing power assay. The red wine lees extract, despite showing a low content of phenolic compounds and less antioxidant activity, presented the highest inhibition capacity of bacteria growth. The extracts did not exhibit cytotoxicity against keratinocyte (up to 400 μg/mL) and fibroblast (up to 100 μg/mL) skin cell lines. However, the capacity of inhibiting tyrosinase and collagenase was low for the lees and diatomaceous earth, contrary to the grape pomace, seeds, and skins extracts that showed promising results, evidencing its potential as a cosmeceutical. Overall, this study highlights for the first time the potential of diatomaceous earth, an underexploited winemaking waste, in the obtention of added-value extracts and/or ingredients for cosmetic industry.

Marine Natural Products as Innovative Cosmetic Ingredients

Over the course of the last 20 years, numerous studies have identified the benefits of an array of marine natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes, as they present unique characteristics not found in terrestrial organisms. Consequently, several marine-based ingredients and bioactive compounds are under development, used or considered for skin care and cosmetics. Despite the multitude of cosmetics based on marine sources, only a small proportion of their full potential has been exploited. Many cosmetic industries have turned their attention to the sea to obtain innovative marine-derived compounds for cosmetics, but further research is needed to determine and elucidate the benefits. This review gathers information on the main biological targets for cosmetic ingredients, different classes of marine natural products of interest for cosmetic applications, and the organisms from which such products can be sourced. Although organisms from different phyla present different and varied bioactivities, the algae phylum seems to be the most promising for cosmetic applications, presenting compounds of many classes. In fact, some of these compounds present higher bioactivities than their commercialized counterparts, demonstrating the potential presented by marine-derived compounds for cosmetic applications (i.e., Mycosporine-like amino acids and terpenoids’ antioxidant activity). This review also summarizes the major challenges and opportunities faced by marine-derived cosmetic ingredients to successfully reach the market. As a future perspective, we consider that fruitful cooperation among academics and cosmetic industries could lead to a more sustainable market through responsible sourcing of ingredients, implementing ecological manufacturing processes, and experimenting with inventive recycling and reuse programs.

Recent developments in biorefining of macroalgae metabolites and their industrial applications - A circular economy approach

The macroalgal industry is expanding, and the quest for novel ingredients to improve and develop innovative products is crucial. Consumers are increasingly looking for natural-derived ingredients in cosmetic products that have been proven to be effective and safe. Macroalgae-derived compounds have growing popularity in skincare products as they are natural, abundant, biocompatible, and renewable. Due to their high biomass yields, rapid growth rates, and cultivation process, they are gaining widespread recognition as potentially sustainable resources better suited for biorefinery processes. This review demonstrates macroalgae metabolites and their industrial applications in moisturizers, anti-aging, skin whitening, hair, and oral care products. These chemicals can be obtained in combination with energy products to increase the value of macroalgae from an industrial perspective with a zero-waste approach by linking multiple refineries. The key challenges, bottlenecks, and future perspectives in the operation and outlook of macroalgal biorefineries were also discussed.