Collagen Hydrolysate Prepared from Chicken By-Product as a Functional Polymer in Cosmetic Formulation

Enriched characteristics of poultry collagen over other sources of collagen and its extraction methods: A review

Collagen is the most abundant protein in animals and is extensively studied for its structural and thermal stability, biocompatibility, and healing properties which enables them to be widely applied in various fields. Collagen extracted from poultry sources have shown improved structural stability and reduced risk of triggering allergic responses and transmitting animal diseases onto humans. Furthermore, poultry collagen is widely accepted by consumers of diverse beliefs in comparison to collagen extracted from bovine and porcine sources. The review aims to compare different sources of collagen, focusing on the various beneficial characteristics of poultry collagen over the other sources. Moreover, the review explains various pre-treatment and extraction methods of poultry collagen and its versatile applications in different industrial sectors.

Use of Collagen in Cosmetic Products

Collagen (CLG) belongs to the family of fibrillar proteins and is composed of left-handed α polypeptide chains, which, twisting around themselves and their axis, form a right-handed superhelix. In the chemical structure, it contains mainly proline, hydroxyproline, glycine, and hydroxylysine. It occurs naturally in the dermis in the form of fibers that provide the skin with proper density and elasticity. The review aimed to present the types of collagen protein, factors affecting its structure and its unusual role in the functioning of the human body. Also, an overview of cosmetic products containing collagen or its derivatives, the characteristics of the formulas of these products, and the effects of their use were presented. Throughout the market, there are many cosmetic and cosmeceutical products containing CLG. They are in the form of fillers administered as injections, belonging to the group of the oldest tissue fillers; products administered orally and for topical use, such as creams, gels, serums, or cosmetic masks. Analyzed studies have shown that the use of products with collagen or its peptides improves the general condition of the skin and delays the aging process by reducing the depth of wrinkles, improving hydration (in the case of oral preparations), reducing transepithelial water loss (TEWL), as well as improving skin density and elasticity. In addition, oral application of bioactive CLG peptides has shown a positive effect on the nails, reducing the frequency of their breakage.

Characterization of Poultry Gelatins Prepared by a Biotechnological Method for Targeted Changes at the Molecular Level

Chicken collagen is a promising raw material source for the production gelatins and hydrolysates. These can be prepared biotechnologically using proteolytic enzymes. By choosing the appropriate process conditions, such changes can be achieved at the molecular level of collagen, making it possible to prepare gelatins with targeted properties for advanced cosmetic, pharmaceutical, medical, or food applications. The present research aims to investigate model samples of chicken gelatins, focusing on: (i) antioxidant activity using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2-azinobis-3-etylbenzotiazolin-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS); (ii) the distribution of molecular weights via gel permeation chromatography with refractometric detection (GPC-RID); (iii) functional groups and the configuration of polypeptide chains related to molecular-level properties using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR); (iv) the microbiological populations on sabouraud dextrose agar (SDA), plate count agar (PCA), tryptic soy agar (TSA), and violet red bile lactose (VRBL) using the matrix-assisted laser desorption ionization (MALDI) method. Antioxidant activity towards ABTS radicals was more than 80%; activity towards DPPH radicals was more than 69%. The molecular weights of all gelatin samples showed typical α-, β-, and γ-chains. FTIR analysis confirmed that chicken gelatins all contain typical vibrational regions for collagen cleavage products, Amides A and B, and Amides I, II, and III, at characteristic wavenumbers. A microbiological analysis of the prepared samples showed no undesirable bacteria that would limit advanced applications of the prepared products. Chicken gelatins represent a promising alternative to products made from standard collagen tissues of terrestrial animals.

Trends in biopolymer science applied to cosmetics

The term biopolymer refers to materials obtained by chemically modifying natural biological substances or producing them through biotechnological processes. They are biodegradable, biocompatible and non-toxic. Due to these advantages, biopolymers have wide applications in conventional cosmetics and new trends and have emerged as essential ingredients that function as rheological modifiers, emulsifiers, film-formers, moisturizers, hydrators, antimicrobials and, more recently, materials with metabolic activity on skin. Developing approaches that exploit these features is a challenge for formulating skin, hair and oral care products and dermatological formulations. This article presents an overview of the use of the principal biopolymers used in cosmetic formulations and describes their sources, recently derived structures, novel applications and safety aspects of the use of these molecules.

Sustainable Applications of Animal Waste Proteins

Currently, the growth of the global population leads to an increase in demand for agricultural products. Expanding the obtaining and consumption of food products results in a scale up in the amount of by-products formed, the development of processing methods for which is becoming an urgent task of modern science. Collagen and keratin make up a significant part of the animal origin protein waste, and the potential for their biotechnological application is almost inexhaustible. The specific fibrillar structure allows collagen and keratin to be in demand in bioengineering in various forms and formats, as a basis for obtaining hydrogels, nanoparticles and scaffolds for regenerative medicine and targeted drug delivery, films for the development of biodegradable packaging materials, etc. This review describes the variety of sustainable sources of collagen and keratin and the beneficial application multiformity of these proteins.