Trends in biopolymer science applied to cosmetics

The term biopolymer refers to materials obtained by chemically modifying natural biological substances or producing them through biotechnological processes. They are biodegradable, biocompatible and non-toxic. Due to these advantages, biopolymers have wide applications in conventional cosmetics and new trends and have emerged as essential ingredients that function as rheological modifiers, emulsifiers, film-formers, moisturizers, hydrators, antimicrobials and, more recently, materials with metabolic activity on skin. Developing approaches that exploit these features is a challenge for formulating skin, hair and oral care products and dermatological formulations. This article presents an overview of the use of the principal biopolymers used in cosmetic formulations and describes their sources, recently derived structures, novel applications and safety aspects of the use of these molecules.

Supertough and Highly Stretchable Silk Protein-based Films with Controlled Biodegradability

Naturally derived protein-based biopolymers are considered potential biomaterials in biomedical applications and eco-friendly materials for replacing current petroleum-based polymers due to their good biocompatibility, low environmental impact, and tunable degradability. However, current strategies for fabricating protein-based materials with superior properties and tailored functionality in a scalable manner are still lacking. Here, we demonstrate an aqueous-based scalable approach for fabricating silk protein-based films through controlled molecular self-assembly (CMS) of silk proteins with plasticizers and salt ions. The films fabricated using this method can achieve a toughness of up to 64±5 MJ/m³ with a stretchability of up to 574±31%. We also demonstrate the tunable enzymatic degradability, low in vitro cytotoxicity, and good in vivo biocompatibility of the films. Furthermore, the films can be patterned with predesigned complex structures through laser cutting and functionalized with bioactive components. The functional silk protein-based films show great potential in various applications, including flexible electronics, bioelectronics, tissue engineering, and bioplastic packaging. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: Inspired by the naturally optimized multi-scale self-assembly of silk proteins in natural silks, we develop an aqueous-based approach for scalable production of superior protein-based films through controlled molecular self-assembly (CMS) of silk proteins with glycerol and calcium ions. The prepared silk films present outstanding mechanical properties, controlled enzymatic biodegradability, low in vitro cytotoxicity, and good in vivo biocompatibility. Notably, the films fabricated using this method can achieve a high toughness of 64±5 MJ/m³ with a stretchability of 594±31%. The approach introduced in this work provides a facile route toward making silk-based materials with superior properties. It also paves new avenues for developing functional protein-based materials with precisely controlled structures and properties for various applications.

Synthesis and evaluation of protein-based biopolymer in production of silver nanoparticles as bioactive compound versus carbohydrates-based biopolymers

This overall process deals with evaluating the performance of silver nanoparticles, synthesized from sodium caseinate (SC) as green biological active agent, in comparison with widely produced from carboxymethyl cellulose, other carbohydrates (oxidized nanocellulose fibres (OC) and starch (St)). The TGA, FTIR and TEM, as well as its antimicrobial activities toward pathogenic Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria in addition to the yeast strain Candida albicans NRRL Y-477 were examined. In addition, with regard to their anti-tumour activity, the evaluation was studied via many cancer cell lines against RPE1 (normal retina cell line). The results revealed that the SC-Ag(I) and CMC-Ag(I) complexes were formed in six- and five-membered chelate rings, respectively, as nanoparticles, while linear chelation structure was formed in case of OC-Ag(I) and St-Ag(I) complexes. The complexation of SC with Ag(I) ions was recommended as promising stable and antimicrobial agent, with lower free Ag(I) ions and particle size than other Ag-complexes. Moreover, it provided anti-tumour activity of most tested cell lines (in vitro), with the following sequence HCT116 > PC3 > HePG 2 > MCF-7 > A549 with IC₅₀ and IC₉₀ values of 25.8 and 54.73 µg ml^-1, 45.1 and 66.7 µg ml^-1, 64.3 and 110.7 µgml^-1, 71.4 and 114.8 µgml^-1 and 80.1 and 127.7 µgml^-1, respectively. The promising effect of SC-Ag complex was also clear from its selective index versus RPE1 (normal retina cell line).