Odorless Glutathione Microneedle Patches for Skin Whitening

Exploring the potential of white birch sap: A natural alternative to traditional skin whitening agents with reduced side effects

Common tyrosinase (TYR) inhibitors used in cosmetics, such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, and arbutin, can cause side effects including erythema, skin peeling, and dryness. Therefore, the development of natural whitening agents that offer excellent permeability, minimal irritation, and high safety has become a primary focus in the field of TYR inhibitors. In this study, we demonstrate that White birch sap (WBS), within a safe concentration range, effectively reduces TYR activity and melanin content in both B16F10 mouse melanoma cells and zebrafish larvae. Importantly, WBS exhibits minimal irritation to neutrophils in fluorescent zebrafish and does not affect the behavior of adult zebrafish. Furthermore, WBS downregulates the gene expression levels of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, TYR, tyrosinase-related protein-1, and tyrosinase-related protein-2 in B16F10 cells. In conclusion, our research confirms that WBS, a naturally derived substance, offers high safety and mild effects, making it a promising candidate for a skin-whitening agent.

Layered GelMA/PEGDA Hydrogel Microneedle Patch as an Intradermal Delivery System for Hypertrophic Scar Treatment

Hypertrophic scar (HS) is an unfavorable skin disorder that typically develops after trauma, burn injury, or surgical procedures and causes numerous physical and psychological issues in patients. Currently, intralesional multi-injection of corticosteroid, particularly compound betamethasone (CB), is one of the most prevalent treatments for HS. However, injection administration could result in severe pain and dose-related side effects. Additionally, the vacuum therapeutic efficacy of this treatment relies on the level of expertise of the healthcare professional. To overcome the limitations of conventional injections, a new method that is convenient, painless, and self-administrable is urgently required. In this study, we developed a methacrylate gelatin (GelMA)/polyethylene glycol diacrylate (PEGDA) double-network hydrogel microneedle patch loaded with CB (CB-HMNP) as an intradermal delivery system for HS treatment. The double-network structure conferred the CB-HMNP with sufficient mechanical properties to successfully penetrate scar tissue while also helping to regulate the drug's sustained release rate. Subsequently, we confirmed that the CB-HMNP had a pronounced inhibitory effect on human HS fibroblasts (hHSFs), whereas drug-free HMNPs had no effect on hHSFs, indicating its high biocompatibility. In order to assess the therapeutic efficacy of CB-HMNPs, HS models of New Zealand rabbit ears were developed. The administration of CB-HMNP three times significantly decreased the scar elevation index (SEI), collagen I/III, and transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1) protein. Therefore, the CB-HMNP may offer an administration pathway for the treatment of HS that is less painful, more convenient, less invasive, and sustain-released.

Fast-Embeddable Grooved Microneedles by Shear Actuation for Accurate Transdermal Drug Delivery

Percutaneous drug delivery using microneedles (MNs) has been extensively exploited to increase the transdermal permeability of therapeutic drugs. However, it is difficult to control the precise dosage with existing MNs and they need to be attached for a long time, so a more simple and scalable method is required for accurate transdermal drug delivery. In this study, we developed grooved MNs that can be embedded into the skin by mechanical fracture following simple shear actuation. Grooved MNs are prepared from hyaluronic acid (HA), which is a highly biocompatible and biodegradable biopolymer. By adjusting the aspect ratio (length:diameter) of the MN and the position of the groove, the MN tip inserted into the skin can be easily broken by shear force. In addition, it was demonstrated that it is possible to deliver the desired amount of triamcinolone acetonide (TCA) for alopecia areata by controlling the position of the groove structure and the concentration of TCA loaded in the MN. It was also confirmed that the tip of the TCA MN can be accurately delivered into the skin with a high probability (98% or more) by fabricating an easy-to-operate applicator to provide adequate shear force. The grooved MN platform has proven to be able to load the desired amount of a drug and deliver it at the correct dose.

Fabrication of polyvinyl pyrrolidone-K90/Eudragit RL100-based dissolving microneedle patches loaded with alpha-arbutin and resveratrol for skin depigmentation

Alpha-arbutin (AA) and resveratrol (Res) are widely used in skin-lightening products. However, current topical formulations have minimal skin-lightening effects due to the low absorption and poor solubility of these active compounds. This study investigated the efficacy and safety of using dissolving microneedle (DMN) patches to improve the delivery of AA and Res for skin depigmentation. The DMN patches (F0-F3) fabricated from polyvinyl pyrrolidone-K90 (PVP-K90)/Eudragit RL100 blends successfully penetrated excised porcine skin and showed sufficient mechanical strength to resist compression forces. Loading DMNs with 10% AA and 2% Res at a ratio of 5 : 1 (F3) resulted in a synergistic interaction between the drugs with desirable dissolving ability, drug loading, and stability. Furthermore, both in vitro and in vivo studies revealed that the use of F3 DMN patches successfully enhanced the intradermal delivery of AA and Res over a 24 h period, with the delivered amount being higher (∼2.6 times) than that provided by a cream formulation (P < 0.05). After removing the DMN patches, the mice's skin was spontaneously and completely resealed within 12 h. In clinical studies, F3 DMN patches slightly decreased the melanin index of the participants without causing skin irritation or erythema at any time during the 24 h period when the patches were applied (P < 0.05). Moreover, application of the patches for 24 h was not found to affect skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, or skin elasticity. Therefore, AA/Res-loaded DMN patches could offer a promising approach for the effective local delivery of cosmetic agents for skin depigmentation.

Neurog1-Derived Peptides RMNE1 and DualPep-Shine Penetrate the Skin and Inhibit Melanin Synthesis by Regulating MITF Transcription

Anti-pigmentation peptides have been developed as alternative skin-lightening agents to replace conventional chemicals that have adverse effects on the skin. However, the maximum size of these peptides is often limited by their low skin and cell penetration. To address this issue, we used our intra-dermal delivery technology (IDDT) platform to identify peptides with hypo-pigmenting and high cell-penetrating activity. Using our cell-penetrating peptides (CPPs) from the IDDT platform, we identified RMNE1 and its derivative RMNE3, "DualPep-Shine", which showed levels of α-Melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin inhibition comparable to the conventional tyrosinase inhibitor, Kojic acid. In addition, DualPep-Shine was delivered into the nucleus and regulated the gene expression levels of melanogenic enzymes by inhibiting the promoter activity of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor-M (MITF-M). Using a 3D human skin model, we found that DualPep-Shine penetrated the lower region of the epidermis and reduced the melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, DualPep-Shine showed high safety with little immunogenicity, indicating its potential as a novel cosmeceutical ingredient and anti-pigmentation therapeutic agent.

Sustained Release Microneedles: Materials and Applications in Facial Rejuvenation

Wrinkled and loose skin resulting from collagen degradation along with fibers decreasing reflects the youth diminishing. Microneedles (MNs) have opened up new avenues for the development of painless and noninvasive transdermal drug delivery systems for facial rejuvenation. Encapsulated drugs or molecules are transmitted to targeted tissues via percutaneous microchannels, which eliminate potential gastric stimulation or first-pass metabolic effects, as well as boost patient compliance. Although MNs are considered effective and feasible therapeutic alternatives to metals, silicon, and polymers, traditional procedures with reduction processes continue to encounter methodological limitations. In recent years, promising additive manufacturing processes such as three-dimensional printing and two-photon polymerization manufacturing have been developed with the aim of overcoming the limitations by traditional processes to facilitate an efficient and economic production mode. This review summarizes the design, material selection, and manufacturing method for recently advanced MN systems. Furthermore, we also highlight specific polymeric or natural microneedle products, like hyaluronan, plant derivates, and vitamins, for esthetic applications in this review. Impact Statement In this review, the materials and manufactural routes of microneedles (MNs) are detailed. Moreover, similar to the diagnostic or therapeutic MNs, the feature of dispensation with training and ready-to-use is perfect for beautification and anti-aging, which necessitate repeated and long-term usage. Furthermore, the specific polymeric or natural products for esthetic applications of MNs are highlighted in this review.

Rapid screening of novel tyrosinase inhibitory peptides from a pearl shell meat hydrolysate by molecular docking and the anti-melanin mechanism

Pearls are an edible and medicinal resource with whitening activity and nutritional value in China. In the previous study, we found that the pearl shell meat hydrolysate showed dual activities of antioxidation and tyrosinase inhibition, which were similar to the activities of pearls. In this research, a pearl shell meat hydrolysate was isolated, identified and screened by molecular docking, and three peptides FLF, SPSSS and WLL with high tyrosinase inhibitory activities were obtained. The results indicated that FLF, SPSSS and WLL could effectively inhibit tyrosinase activities and the inhibition rates (1.0 mg mL^-1) were 54.32%, 65.26% and 57.50%, respectively. The results of a zebrafish whitening experiment showed that the tyrosinase activities of zebrafish treated with FLF, SPSSS and WLL decreased by 75.41%, 62.87% and 64.99% (p < 0.05), respectively, and the melanin content decreased by 37.34%, 38.52% and 40.39% (p < 0.05), respectively. In a B16F10 cell whitening experiment, compared with a control group, FLF, SPSSS and WLL also showed a significant whitening effect, the tyrosinase activities decreased by 84.08%, 79.08% and 77.45% (p < 0.05), respectively, and the melanin content decreased by 42.23%, 34.37% and 34.02% (p < 0.05), respectively. Moreover, the active peptides could act on three signal pathways including Wnt/β-catenin, MAPK and MC1R/α-MSH and significantly downregulated the expressions of the signaling factors WNT4, MITF, β-catenin, ERK, JNK, TRP1 and TRP2 (p < 0.05). The results demonstrated that the whitening active peptides were edible natural antioxidants, tyrosinase inhibitors and skin anti-melanin agents, which could be added to functional foods as food ingredients.

ROS-sensitive calcipotriol nano-micelles prepared by methoxypolyethylene glycol (mPEG) - modified polymer for the treatment of psoriasis

Oxidative stress due to excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in the skin microenvironment is one of the main mechanisms in psoriasis pathogenesis. A nano drug delivery system based on ROS-responsive release can enhance drug release at the target site. In this study, a ROS-sensitive material methoxypolyethylene glycol-thioether-thiol (mPEG-SS) was synthesized using mPEG as the parent structure with sulfide structural modification. An mPEG-SS-calcipotriol (mPEG-SS-CPT, PSC) nano-micelle percutaneous delivery system was prepared by encapsulating CPT. A small animal imaging system was used to study PSC’s the ROS-sensitive drug release process. It is shown that endogenous ROS mainly affects PSC and releases drugs. Finally, the therapeutic effect of PSC on psoriasis was explored by animal experiments. Ultimately, it ameliorates imiquimod-induced psoriasis-like inflammation. Overall, PSC is an effective ROS-sensitive transdermal drug delivery system that is expected to provide a new strategy for treating psoriasis.

Herbal nanocosmecuticals: A review on cosmeceutical innovation

BACKGROUND

Cosmeceuticals are drugs, cosmetics, or a combination of both. Cosmeceuticals are personal care products that not only beautify but also need to have healing, therapeutic, and disease-fighting characteristics. For decades, phytocompounds have been employed in cosmeceuticals and have shown potential in applications such as moisturizing, sunscreen, antiaging, and hair-based therapy. The inability of phytocompounds to easily penetrate through the skin and their instability limit their usage in cosmetic products. This can be overcome by incorporating nanotechnology into cosmetic products for a more stable and long-lasting release. Nanotechnology's substantial impact on the cosmetics industry is due to the improved properties attained by particles at the nano scale, such as color, solubility, and transparency. Liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, niosomes, and many varieties of nanoparticulate systems are commonly used in cosmetics. Safety concerns for the usage of nanomaterials in cosmeceuticals have been raised lately, hence causing the restriction on the use of nanomaterials by cosmetic companies and enforcing laws demanding thorough safety testing prior to market entry.

AIM

This review focuses on the types of nanomaterials used in phytocosmetics, along with the potential hazards they pose to human life and the environment, and what legislation has been enacted or can be enacted to address them.

METHODS

For relevant literature, a literature search was conducted using PubMed, ScienceDirect, and Google Scholar. Nanotechnology, cosmeceuticals, herbal cosmetics, and other related topics were researched and evaluated in articles published between 2016 and 2022.

RESULTS

Herbal drugs provide a tremendous range of therapeutic benefits. And when nanoparticles were introduced to the personal care industry, the quality of the final product containing phyto-compounds continued to rise. Unfortunately, because these nano components can permeate intact skin barriers and create unwanted consequences, this revolution comes with a slew of health risks.

CONCLUSION

The cosmeceutical industry's expansion and growth in the application of herbal compounds, as well as the entrance of nanotechnology into the cosmeceuticals business, entail the urgent need for scientific research into their efficacy, safety profile, and use.

Medical therapies for Melasma

Melasma is a common malady affecting all races with a higher incidence in Hispanics, Middle Eastern, Asians and African origin females (Fitzpatrick skin phototypes III-V). Women are affected much more often than men. Melasma remains a significant cause of cosmetic morbidity and psychosocial embarrassment affecting quality of life necessitating effective and reliable treatment. Unfortunately, treatment remains unsatisfactory due to limited efficacy, adverse effects and relapses after stopping treatment. Although chemical peels, laser and light therapies and dermabrasion may have utility, the evidence available for their efficacy is limited and they often cause post inflammatory hyperpigmentation particularly in individuals with darker skin types. Medical therapies remain mainstay in the management of melasma. The triple combination, hydroquinone 4%, tretinoin 0.05% and fluocinolone acetonide 0.01% (Triluma, Galderma, Ft. Worth Texas, often modified incorporating different corticosteroids) remains the only US FDA approved treatment for melasma and is the gold standard due its demonstrated efficacy across ethnicities. Oral tranexamic acid alone or in combination with other modalities has also shown significant efficacy. Several cosmeceuticals and botanical extracts used as skin lightening agents have been demonstrated to be useful. Physical sunscreens containing zinc oxide, iron oxide, titanium dioxide, and silicones provide photoprotective and camouflage effect. We propose that a multimodality approach to the treatment of melasma is the most effective treatment approach. This review is focused on the medical therapies for melasma.

Hyaluronic acid based microneedle array: Recent applications in drug delivery and cosmetology

Microneedles are micron-sized arrays of needles that facilitate drug delivery for local and systemic effects. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan and is an indigenous component of the connective tissues and dermis. Owing to its versatility and biocompatibility, it has widely been used against various bone, eye, and skin disorders. Therefore, fabricating HA-microneedles is fetching massive global attention. HA based dissolvable microneedles have been immensely explored due to their biodegradable nature. Its degradation residues are very safe. Several attempts have been made to deliver vitamins, proteins, DNAs, and biological macromolecules by HA-microneedles. Here we present the recent advancements in HA-microneedles based application on drug delivery and cosmetology. Its bio-degradation pathways, the receptors on which HA and its derivatives interact, the biological half-lives, and their importance as useful materials for various applications are highlighted. The literature reports identify HA-microneedle as an useful carrier for the delivery of pharmaceuticals.

Antimelanogenesis Effects of Leaf Extract and Phytochemicals from Ceylon Olive (Elaeocarpus serratus) in Zebrafish Model

The melanogenesis inhibition effect in zebrafish (Danio rerio) and antityrosinase activity of the ethanolic extract and its phytochemicals from Ceylon olive (Elaeocarpus serratus Linn.) leaves were investigated in this study. Among the leaf extract and four soluble fractions, the ethyl acetate soluble fraction exhibits the best antityrosinase and antimelanogenesis activities. One phenolic acid, gallic acid, and two flavonoids, myricetin and mearnsetin, are isolated from the active subfractions through the bioassay-guided isolation; their structures are elucidated based on the 1D and 2D NMR, FTIR, UV, and MS spectroscopic analyses. These compounds have significant antityrosinase activity whether using l-tyrosine or l-DOPA as the substrate; mearnsetin shows the optimal activity. In the enzyme kinetic investigation, both gallic acid and mearnsetin are the competitive-type inhibitors against mushroom tyrosinase, and myricetin acts as a mixed-type tyrosinase inhibitor. Leaf extract and an ethyl acetate soluble fraction show effective performance in the inhibition of melanin formation in zebrafish embryos. Mearnsetin also possesses a promising antimelanogenesis effect, which is superior to the positive control, arbutin. Results reveal that the Ceylon olive leaf extract and its phytochemicals, especially mearnsetin, have the potential to be used as antimelanogenesis and skin-whitening ingredients.