Ajayi OM, Amin S. Flow and performance effects of talc alternatives on powder cosmetic formulations.
Int J Cosmet Sci 2021;
43:588-600. [PMID:
34411305 DOI:
10.1111/ics.12733]
[Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/17/2021] [Revised: 08/02/2021] [Accepted: 08/18/2021] [Indexed: 11/26/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE
To explore the performance effects of fumed silica and cornstarch as alternatives to talc in cosmetic powder formulations.
METHODS
FT4 Powder Rheometer from Freeman Technology was used to test the flowability and compressibility of compact powder formulation samples containing talc, fumed silica and cornstarch at varying concentrations. The colour of the samples is evaluated by physical observation.
RESULTS
The results show that the concentration of these additives influences the performance of cosmetic powder formulations. Improved compressibility is assessed as an increase in the compressibility percentage, while improved flowability is assessed by reduction in the flow energy of each sample. Talc shows improved compressibility at a minimum of 10% but would require more than 20% to impart improved flow performance. Fumed Silica shows improved compressibility from as low as 5% and this performance increases as the concentration is increased up to 20%. For the flow effects, fumed silica shows a reduction in the flow energy from as little as 5% and this effect is more drastic as the concentration is increased up to 20%. Cornstarch, however, shows a reverse effect for both compressibility and flowability with increasing flow energy and decreasing compressibility with increasing cornstarch concentration. It shows improved compressibility up to a maximum of 10% and improved flow only at concentrations lower than 5%. For a mixture of cornstarch and fumed silica at a total of 5%, both compressibility and flowability are increased as the concentration of cornstarch is reduced and that of fumed silica increased.
CONCLUSION
Fumed silica and cornstarch are suitable as alternatives to talc in cosmetic powder formulations. Of the two, Fumed silica showed better compressibility and flow effects. However, a mix of both powders had suitable effects on the compressibility, flow and colour of the formulation.
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