Evaluation of the Antioxidant Capacity and Preventive Effects of a Topical Emulsion and Its Vehicle Control on the Skin Response to UV Exposure

Recent Updates on Nanocosmeceutical Skin Care and Anti-Aging Products

Nanotechnology is an innovative area of science that deals with things smaller than 100 nanometers. The influence of nanotechnology in the cosmetic industry is overwhelming since it can enhance the properties attained by the particles at the nano level which includes color, solubility, etc, and also promotes the bioavailability of API. A plethora of nanomaterials can be employed in cosmetics including organic and inorganic nanoparticles. Unlike orthodox carriers, they facilitate easy penetration of the product into the skin and thereby increasing the stability and allowing a controlled drug release so that they can permeate deeper into the skin and start revitalizing it. Nanomaterials rejuvenate the skin by forming an occlusive barrier to inhibit the loss of water from the skin's surface and thereby moisturize the skin. Nano-cosmeceuticals are used to provide better protection against UV radiation, facilitate deeper skin penetration, and give long-lasting effects. Although they still have some safety concerns, hence detailed characterization or risk assessments are required to fulfill the standard safety requirements. In this review, an attempt is made to make a brief overview of various nanocosmeceutical skincare and anti-aging products.

A serum containing vitamins C & E and a matrix-repair tripeptide reduces facial signs of aging as evidenced by Primos® analysis and frequently repeated auto-perception

Background

Allegations on the benefits of incorporating vitamin C, vitamin E, and combinations thereof in topical skincare formulations are mostly based on in vitro and ex vivo experiments and/or limited protocols of specific stress conditions (pollution, UV exposure, laser irradiation,…).

Objective

To evaluate the instrumentally measurable effects and quantitative consumer perceptions of a protective and reparative serum on a panel of volunteers under normal nonstressed conditions of use, employing FOITS technology and innovative self‐assessment methods.

Method

In an open‐label study women of ≥40 years with visible signs of photoaging applied a serum comprising l‐ascorbic acid USP (15% w/v), tocopheryl acetate USP, and 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38 to the face once daily for 56 days. Skin roughness and isotropy changes were evaluated on days 0, 28, and 56, visual instrumental evaluation of skin‐tone parameters was assessed on days 0 and 56. Subjects completed self‐assessment questionnaires every third day of the trial period for radiance, homogeneity, and wrinkle appearance.

Results

Skin‐roughness parameters decreased significantly by 8%‐9% (P < .05) and subjects experienced a significant increase in skin isotropy (P < .05). Photographic analysis revealed significant improvements in skin tone, with a 9% decrease in redness and 8% increase in homogeneity (P < .0001 for both), in excellent agreement with subjects' perception of significant improvements of radiance, complexion, and wrinkles.

Conclusion

The study confirms statistically significant correlation between objectively measured and quantitative subjectively perceived benefits of the bespoke serum containing antioxidants and a matrix‐restoring peptide.

A DFT mechanistic and kinetic study on the reaction of phloroglucinol with •OH in different media: Hydrogen atom transfer versus oxidation

A theoretical study on the reaction of phloroglucinol with •OH has been performed with the aim of elucidating the geometric, energetic and kinetic properties of the reaction as well as identifying the preferred reaction pathway. Three reaction mechanisms have been considered, namely, direct hydrogen atom abstraction, addition–elimination mechanism in the absence and in the presence of a base catalyst and oxidation mechanism in the absence and in the presence of O2. The study has been performed using the DFT/M06[Formula: see text]2X, DFT/BHHLYP and DFT/MPW1K methods in conjunction with either the 6-31++G(d,p) or the 6-311++G(3df,2p) basis set. The energetic parameters are influenced by the type of function utilized and the media in which the calculation is done. The direct hydrogen abstraction mechanism provides the smallest branching ratio with respect to the •OH addition mechanisms. The PG + •OH reaction under atmospheric conditions saturated with O2 would predominantly form tetrahydroxybenzene; the predominant product within the biological system would largely depend on physiological conditions; under pH [Formula: see text] 7 and with oxygen dissolved within the biological system, the preferred product would be tetrahydroxybenzene; however, if the reaction takes place in some part of the biological system where the pH [Formula: see text] 7, the preferred product would be the phenoxyl radical.

Aesthetic aspects of skin aging, prevention, and local treatment

Skin aging is a complex biologic process influenced by a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Aging skin shows wrinkles, uneven tone, loss of elasticity, and thinning. Skin health is considered one of the principal factors representing overall well-being and the perception of health in humans; therefore, anti-aging strategies to combat aging signs and dysfunction have been developed over the last decades. Understanding the mechanism behind skin aging is required for elucidation of the mechanism of action and, hence, the potential benefits of the claimed anti-aging products. In this review, preventive measurements, cosmetologic strategies, and photoprotection (systemic antioxidants, ultraviolet and filters), as well as the mechanisms of action and the effectiveness of topical pharmaceutical agents, such as antioxidants (vitamins, polyphenols, and flavonoids) and cell regulators (retinols, peptides, hormones, and botanicals), are presented.

Skin anti-aging strategies

Skin aging is a complex biological process influenced by a combination of endogenous or intrinsic and exogenous or extrinsic factors. Because of the fact that skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors representing overall "well-being" and the perception of "health" in humans, several anti-aging strategies have been developed during the last years. It is the intention of this article to review the most important anti-aging strategies that dermatologists have nowadays in hand, including including preventive measurements, cosmetological strategies, topical and systemic therapeutic agents and invasive procedures.

[Anti-aging creams. What really helps?]

As youth and perception of beauty are considered to be of great importance, an increasing number of new cosmeceuticals have been developed in recent years. This article will describe new, evidence-based ingredients against skin-aging; in particular antioxidants (e.g. vitamin C, niacinamide, different polyphenols and flavonoids) and cell regulators (e.g. retinol, different peptides and growth factors. Important parameters for the quality of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals are evidence-based in-vivo and in-vitro efficacy as well as scientifically approved wanted and unwanted effects.

Methods for evaluation of cosmetic antioxidant capacity

The skin as the largest part of human body is one of the main targets for ultraviolet radiation, environmental pollution, toxic chemicals and some metal ions, which share responsibility for the formation of free radicals. The resulting free radicals, both oxygen and nitrogen species are one of the main causes of aging due to impaired regulation of cell respiratory metabolism involving incomplete oxygen reduction in mitochondria and production a superoxide anion, hydroxyl radicals et al. In modern cosmetology to minimize the adverse effects of free radicals, antioxidants, which inhibit free radical reactions, mainly autoxidation processes are used. Currently, not only many cosmetic products containing antioxidants are available, but a large diversity of methods for determination of cosmetics antioxidant activity is also accessible. These methods can be divided into three main groups: in vitro, in vivo, and ex vivo as reported herein. Due to lack of standardization and validation it is necessary to use a variety of methods as well as conditions for those purposes, which are presented to the context.

In vitro and in vivo percutaneous absorption of seleno-L-methionine, an antioxidant agent, and other selenium species

AIM

To investigate the in vitro and in vivo percutaneous absorption of seleno-L-methionine (Se-L-M), an ultraviolet (UV)-protecting agent, from aqueous solutions.

METHODS

Aqueous solutions of Se-L-M were prepared in pH 4, 8, and 10.8 buffers. The pH 8 buffer contained 30% glycerol, propylene glycol (PG) and polyethylene glycol (PEG) 400. The in vitro skin permeation of Se-L-M via porcine skin and nude mouse skin was measured and compared using Franz diffusion cells. The in vivo skin tolerance study was performed, which examined transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH and erythema.

RESULTS

In the excised porcine skin, the flux was 0.1, 11.4 and 8.2 μg·cm(-2)·h(-1) for the pH 4, 8, and 10.8 buffers, respectively. A linear correlation between the flux and skin deposition was determined. According to permeation across skin with different treatments (stripping, delipidation, and ethanol treatments), it was determined that the intracellular route comprised the predominant pathway for Se-L-M permeation from pH 8 buffer. Aqueous solutions of seleno-DL-methionine (Se-DL-M), selenium sulfide and selenium-containing quantum dot nanoparticles were also used as donor systems. The DL form showed a lower flux (7.0 vs 11.4 μg·cm(-2)·h(-1)) and skin uptake (23.4 vs 47.3 μg/g) as compared to the L form, indicating stereoselective permeation of this compound. There was no or only negligible permeation of selenium sulfide and quantum dots into and across the skin. With in vivo topical application for 4 and 8 h, the skin deposition of Se-L-M was about 7 μg/g, and values were comparable to each other. The topical application of Se-L-M for up to 5 d did not caused apparent skin irritation. However, slight inflammation of the dermis was noted according to the histopathological examination.

CONCLUSION

Se-L-M was readily absorbed by the skin in both the in vitro and in vivo experiments. The established profiles of Se-L-M skin absorption will be helpful in developing topical products of this compound.

Role of novel delivery systems in developing topical antioxidants as therapeutics to combat photoageing

Ageing proceeds by highly complicated biochemical processes, in which the involvement of the reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals has been implicated. Reactive oxygen species are dramatically enhanced by exposure to the ultraviolet radiation. Free radical scavengers and antioxidants can thus provide a long-term protection against these changes. Currently, dermaceutical and cosmetic industry is growing immensely with its main focus on packaging the active into a suitable/novel delivery system. This not only enhances the customer acceptance but offers better targeting to the upper skin layer, with faster onset, at a lower concentration of the active. Later also counter toxic or adverse effects observed with large doses especially when administered orally. Several of the antioxidant molecules are labile to degradation in the presence of oxygen, water and light, hence it becomes all the more appropriate to use a delivery system which will augment their stability and hence enhance the performance. In the present review, we focus on the pioneering research on novel delivery systems which can promote the therapeutic value of antioxidants for combating UV-induced photoageing.

Anti-Inflammatory and Skin-Hydrating Properties of a Dietary Supplement and Topical Formulations Containing Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins

BACKGROUND

Anti-inflammatory and skin hydration properties of a dietary supplement and 2 topical formulations (Anthogenol) with oligomeric proanthocyanidins were investigated.

METHODS

Forty-two subjects were randomized into 2 groups: one taking the dietary supplement (100 mg/day) and the other without supplement. After 4 weeks, erythema was induced using UV radiation followed by treatment with topical cream or lotion. Erythema was measured for up to 72 h after irradiation. Skin hydration after 1 and 2 weeks of application of the cream and lotion was also measured in separate test fields.

RESULTS

Both topical formulations led to a significant suppression of erythema formation and the dietary supplement led to an additional slightly stronger suppression. Thus 72 h after UV exposure and compared to the control fields of patients that had not taken a dietary supplement, erythema was slightly (13.2%) lower in the subjects that had taken a dietary supplement. The cream resulted in a maximal reduction of erythema of 45.9% (p = 0.0015), while the lotion resulted in a maximal reduction of 53.1% (p = 0.0002). Both topical formulations also increased skin hydration (by nearly 20%; p < 0.002 for all combinations of dietary supplementation and topical treatment) and the hydration was higher in the group taking the dietary supplement.

CONCLUSION

The regular use of Anthogenol products may help to protect from free-radical-mediated skin inflammation and to increase skin hydration.