Sun Protective Potential and Physical Stability of Herbal Sunscreen Developed from Afghan Medicinal Plants

Enhanced sun protection factor of octocrylene with green tea and bhringraj extracts

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study of sun protection factor boosting effect sunscreen compositions with herbal extract and combination with octocrylene.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The standardized herbal extracts procured and studied their sun protection Factors. Camellia Sinensis (Green tea) leaf Extract, Eclipta prostrata (bhringraj) leaf extract are selected for the development of the herbal sunscreen composition along with octocrylene as synthetic sunscreen. The developed sunscreen composition contains defined concentration of herbal extracts and octocrylene were evaluated for their different physicochemical properties and stability. Sun protection factor boosting effect of herbal extracts is studied combination with octocrylene.

RESULTS

Invitro SPF studied for herbal extract individually and combination with octocrylene. The results of Invitro SPF study revealed the presence of green tea extract and, Eclipta prostrata (bhringraj) leaf extract shows excellent sun protection factor (SPF) boosting value of sunscreen composition containing 5% concentration of herbal extract and octocrylene. The sunscreen formulation containing 5% herbal extracts are stable for 12 weeks in an oven (45 °C).

CONCLUSION

The findings of this in-vitro SPF study revealed a sun protection boosting capacity of green tea extract and bhringraj extract confirmed.

SUMMARY

The over exposure of human skin to Ultra-Violet Radiation (UVR) can trigger photodamage, UV burn, pigmentation, erythema, and enhance the chance of dermal carcinoma. UVR causes DNA damage, which leads to dermal cancer. Daily sunscreens protect the skin from the adverse effects of sun rays, especially UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm). The ozone layer filters UVC (200-290 nm) radiation when it enters into atmosphere of the earth. UVB causes sunburn, photo damage and cause mutagenic changes in nucleic acids. UVA increases ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species) accumulation. ROS is responsible for cell repair which leads to carcinogenesis, and the cause of photodamage. Herbal extracts contain polyphenols, and flavonoids act as a natural sunscreen that will filter Ultra-Violet (UVB) light and contain antioxidant characteristics to modulate the photo-oxidative damage that results from UV-induced Reactive Oxygen Species production. The UVR protection of most herbal extracts are required to attain the higher UV protection in the sun care products. The approaches for preparing sun care products with higher Sun Protection Factor (SPF) possible through Oil in water formulation with herbal extract combinations of octocrylene. The developed sunscreen composition containing different concentration of herbal extracts were evaluated for their other physicochemical properties and stability. Invitro SPF was studied for Camellia Sinensis (Green tea) Leaf Extract and Eclipta prostrata (bhringraj) leaf extract individually and in combination with octocrylene. The results of the Invitro SPF study revealed the Camellia Sinensis (Green tea) Leaf Extract with octocrylene shows better Sun protection factor than Eclipta prostrata (bhringraj) leaf extract with octocrylene. The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) enhancement value of sunscreen compositions was compared to both sunscreen macroemulsion and nanoemulsion.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Protective Effects of Fermented Houttuynia cordata Against UVA and H2O2-Induced Oxidative Stress in Human Skin Keratinocytes

The biological activities of Houttuynia cordata (H. cordata) fermented with Aureobasidium pullulans (A. pullulans) was investigated for human skin keratinocyte-induced chemical and photo oxidations. In this research, H₂O₂/UVA-induced HaCaT cell lines were treated with H. cordata water/ethanol extracts (HCW/HCE) and fermented with A. pullulans water/ethanol extracts (HCFW/HCFE). A. pullulans fermented with H. cordata (HCFW) increased in 5.4-folds of total polyphenol (HCFW 46.89 mg GAE/extract g), and 2.3-folds in flavonoids (HCFW 53.80 mg GAE/extract g) compared with water extracts of H. cordata (HCW). Further, no significant cytotoxicity for HaCaT cells showed by all the extracts of H. cordata fermented with A. pullulans. HCFW extracts have significantly lowered inflammation factors such as COX-2 and Hsp70 proteins in oxidative stressed HaCaT cells induced by H₂O₂ and UVA treatments. All H. cordata extracts significantly downregulated gene expression involved in oxidative stress and inflammation factors, including IL-1β, IL-6, COX-2, TNF-α, NF-κB, and MMP-1 in the H₂O₂/UVA-treated HaCaT cells. However, keratin-1 gene expression in the UVA-treated HaCaT cells was increased in twofolds by HCFW extracts. Further, A. pullulans fermented H. cordata extracts (HCFW/HCFE) reduced the genes involved in oxidative stresses more effectively than those of H. cordata extract only. Overall, the polyphenol-rich extracts of H. cordata fermented with A. pullulans showed synergistic protective effects for human epidermal keratinocytes to prevent photoaging and intrinsic aging by anti-oxidation and anti-inflammatory functions.

EVALUATION OF PLANT-BASED UV FILTERS POTENTIAL IN MODERN CONCEPT VIEW OF SKIN PHOTOPROTECTION

A therapeutic plants potential is based on the pharmacological effects due to their phytochemical profile. Today, scientific interest in botanicals is increasing as a result of recent research that looks at the prospect of using these raw materials for the cosmetic industry as a means to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays.

The aim of the study was to evaluate a potential of plant-based UV-filters in modern concept view of skin photoprotection.

Materials and methods. A systematic literature search was carried out using the electronic information arrays PubMed, Scopus, Google Scholar, eLibrary. The search depth was 10 years (the period from 2010 to 2021). The search was carried out by the following keywords: antioxidants, cosmetics, photoprotection, chemical composition, pharmacological action.

Results. In the paper, modern principles of skin photoprotection based on the use of chemical or physical UV-filters are considered and scientifically substantiated A trend for the use of plant-based materials and their components in the formulation of photoprotectors was notified. That is associated with a wide activity spectrum, the absence of a xenobiotic effect, and a high bioavailability of organic plant compounds.

Conclusion. The data analysis from scientific publications demonstrated a potential photoprotective activity of plant-based biologically active substances due to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-radical effects. The results of the study are a theoretical basis for a further comprehensive experimental study of plant objects in order to obtain a pool of evidence in the field of photoprotection in in vivo experiments.

Natural components in sunscreens: Topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF)

Artificial sunscreens are already gaining traction in order to protect the skin from sunburns, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. However, the efficacy and safety of most artificial sunscreen constituents are hindered by their photostability, toxicity and damage to marine ecosystems. Natural selection and evolution have ensured that plants and animals have developed effective protective mechanisms against the deleterious side effects of oxidative stress and ultraviolet radiation (UV). Hence, natural antioxidants such as sun blockers are drawing considerable attention. The exact mechanism by which natural components act as sunscreen molecules has not been clearly established. However, conjugated π system is reported to play an important role in protecting the vital genetic material within the organism. Compared to artificial sunscreens, natural sunscreens with strong UV absorptive capacities are largely limited by low specific extinction value and by their inability to spread in large-scale sunscreen cosmetic applications. Previous studies have documented that natural components exert their photoprotective effects (such as improved skin elasticity and hydration, skin texture, and wrinkles) through their antioxidant effects, and through the regulation of UV-induced skin inflammation, barrier impairment and aging. This review focuses on natural antioxidant topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF). Lignin, melanin, silymarin and other ingredients have been added to high sun protection nature sunscreens without any physical or chemical UV filters. This paper also provides a reference for adopting novel technical measures (extracting high content components, changing the type of solution, optimizing formulation, applying Nano technology, et al) to design and prepare nature sunscreen formulations equated with commercial sunscreen formulations. Another strategy is to add natural antioxidants from plants, animals, microorganisms and marine organisms as special enhancer or modifier ingredients to reinforce SPF values. Although the photoprotective effects of natural components have been established, their deleterious side effects have not been elucidated.