The antiaging effects of a product containing collagen and ascorbic acid: In vitro, ex vivo, and pre-post intervention clinical trial

Various substances, including collagen (Naticol®) and ascorbic acid, that inhibit and prevent skin aging have been studied. Collagen prevents skin aging, has anti-inflammatory effects, and assists in normal wound healing. Ascorbic acid is a representative antioxidant that plays a role in collagen synthesis. To achieve a synergistic effect of collagen and ascorbic acid on all skin types, we prepared a product named "TEENIALL." In addition, we used a container to separate ascorbic acid and collagen to prevent the oxidation of ascorbic acid. To confirm the effects of TEENIALL, we first confirmed its penetrability in fibroblasts, keratinocytes, melanocyte, and human skin tissues. Thereafter, we confirmed the collagen synthesis ability in normal human fibroblasts. Based on the results of in vitro tests, we conducted a clinical trial (KCT0006916) on female volunteers, aged 40 to 59 years, with skin wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, to evaluate the effects of the product in improving skin wrinkles, skin lifting, and pigmentation areas before using the product, and after 2 and 4 weeks of using the product. The values of nine wrinkle parameters that were evaluated decreased and those for skin sagging, pigmentation, dermal density, and mechanical imprint (pressure) relief were improved. Skin wrinkle and pigmentation were evaluated to ensure that the improvement effect was maintained even after 1 week of discontinuing the product use. The evaluation confirmed that the effects were sustained compared to those after 4 weeks of using the product. Additionally, skin wrinkles, skin lifting, radiance, and moisture content in the skin improved immediately after using the product once. Based on the results of in vitro and ex vivo experiments and the clinical trial, we show that the product containing ascorbic acid and collagen was effective in alleviating skin aging.

Nootkatol prevents ultraviolet radiation-induced photoaging via ORAI1 and TRPV1 inhibition in melanocytes and keratinocytes

Skin photoaging occurs due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UV), the main factor contributing to extrinsic skin aging. Clinical signs of photoaging include the formation of deep, coarse skin wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Although melanogenesis and skin wrinkling occur in different skin cells and have different underlying mechanisms, their initiation involves intracellular calcium signaling via calcium ion channels. The ORAI1 channel initiates melanogenesis in melanocytes, and the TRPV1 channel initiates MMP-1 production in keratinocytes in response to UV stimulation. We aimed to develop a drug that may simultaneously inhibit ORAI1 and TRPV1 activity to help prevent photoaging. We synthesized nootkatol, a chemical derivative of valencene. TRPV1 and ORAI1 activities were measured using the whole-cell patch-clamp technique. Intracellular calcium concentration [Ca²⁺]_i was measured using calcium-sensitive fluorescent dye (Fura-2 AM). UV-induced melanin formation and MMP-1 production were quantified in B16F10 melanoma cells and HaCaT cells, respectively. Our results indicate that nootkatol (90 μM) reduced TRPV1 current by 94% ± 2% at –60 mV and ORAI1 current by 97% ± 1% at –120 mV. Intracellular calcium signaling was significantly inhibited by nootkatol in response to ORAI1 activation in human primary melanocytes (51.6% ± 0.98% at 100 μM). Additionally, UV-induced melanin synthesis was reduced by 76.38% ± 5.90% in B16F10 melanoma cells, and UV-induced MMP-1 production was reduced by 59.33% ± 1.49% in HaCaT cells. In conclusion, nootkatol inhibits both TRPV1 and ORAI1 to prevent photoaging, and targeting ion channels may be a promising strategy for preventing photoaging.

Inhibitory effect of Salvia plebeia leaf extract on ultraviolet-induced photoaging-associated ion channels and enzymes

In traditional Korean/Asian medicine, Salvia plebeia R.Br. (S. plebeia) leaves are used to treat inflammatory diseases, including dermatitis, cough, asthma and toothache. Recently, S. plebeia leaves have been applied in skin care, as they promote skin lightening and elasticity. Therefore, the present study investigated the anti-aging effects of S. plebeia leaf methanolic extract and its fractions (dichloromethane, ethylacetate and n-butanol). The results of a whole-cell patch clamp analysis indicated that the methanolic extract mediated ultraviolet (UV)-induced photoaging-associated ion channels, transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) and calcium release-activated calcium channel protein 1 (ORAI1) channel activity in HEK293T cells overexpressing TRPV1 or ORAI1 and STIM1. Electrophysiological analysis revealed that the butanol fraction inhibited capsaicin-induced TRPV1 (84±8% at -60 mV/86±1% at 100 mV at 100 µg/ml) and ORAI1 (87±2% at -120 mV at 100 µg/ml) currents. Furthermore, the dichloromethane and hexane fractions inhibited tyrosinase activity by 32.4±0.69 and 22.6±0.96% at 330 µg/ml, respectively. Furthermore, the ethylacetate and butanol fractions inhibited elastase activity by 65.2±1.30 and 31.7±1.23% at 330 µg/ml, respectively. Tyrosinase and elastase, which are UV-induced photoaging-associated enzymes, regulate skin pigmentation and wrinkle formation, respectively. The results of the present study indicated that S. plebeia leaves may be a novel treatment for UV-induced photoaging.