In vitro and in vivo studies with tetra-hydro-jasmonic acid (LR2412) reveal its potential to correct signs of skin ageing

BACKGROUND

LR2412, a synthetic derivative of jasmonic acid, improved the reconstruction and homeostasis of our organotypic skin models.

OBJECTIVES

The need for efficient 'anti-ageing' treatments, in particular for the management of photoaged skin, prompted us to investigate this new ingredient for its potential to correct signs of skin ageing in vitro and in vivo and to identify its mode of action.

RESULTS

In vitro, penetration of LR2412 was evaluated using a Franz diffusion cell on excised human skin. Its exfoliating properties and interactions with the stratum corneum were studied using electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. Experiments were performed on a human reconstructed skin model. In vivo, the effects of LR2412 on steroid-induced skin atrophy, a clinical skin ageing model, were assessed vs. vehicle. A patch test study evaluated its effect on deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils in the papillary dermis in clinically photoaged volunteers. A clinical study on the appearance of crow's feet wrinkles was conducted over 3 months of daily application. Penetration studies revealed that LR2412 reaches viable epidermis and superficial dermis, which are skin targets of anti-ageing actives. Within the upper layers of the stratum corneum LR2412 accelerates desquamation and improves the mechanical properties. At the dermal-epidermal junction of reconstructed skin, collagen IV, laminin-5 and fibrillin were stimulated. In vivo, LR2412 reversed steroid-induced atrophy. The patch test model confirms the deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils, then an in use clinical study revealed that it reduced facial wrinkles.

CONCLUSIONS

The in vitro and in vivo data demonstrate that based on its multiple interactions within human skin, LR2412 has potential to partially correct the signs of ageing in intrinsically and photoaged skin.

Oily skin: specific features in Chinese women

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Inconsistent data are available on the various types of skin, their prevalence and characterization, particularly regarding Asian skins. This observation prompted to conduct a large study in China to assess the prevalence of oily skin and identify the specific factors related to that type of skin.

METHODS

The multicentre trial involved 1787 Chinese women in Shenyang, Harbin, Beijing, Chengdu and Suzhou, between 18 and 65 years of age. Data on history of acne, the presence of environmental factors and a detailed self-evaluation of the skin were collected using a standardized questionnaire. A clinical evaluation of facial skin oiliness was carried-out by a dermatologist at each centre. Sebum secretion was measured on the forehead using Sebumeter SM810. Statistical analysis (multiple correspondence analysis) of typology was conducted based on self-evaluation data.

RESULTS

According to self-evaluation data, oily skin prevalence in the overall Chinese population of the study was 25.6%. Self-evaluation results were quite consistent with sebum measurements and with clinical assessment by dermatologist. Parameters associated with oily skin were (i) shiny skin and a past history of acne, (ii) irregular menstruation, and (iii) highly reactive or sensitive skin. Moreover, a clear and significant link was noted between oily skin and the ingestion of spicy or sweet food. Lastly, sebum levels were found to be twice as high in Beijing as in the other cities and were correlated to higher oily skin prevalence.

CONCLUSION

The study demonstrated the capacity of women for proper self-evaluation of their skin type. It also suggests a potential link between nutritional factors such as spicy and/or sweet diets and oily skin as well as between sensitive and oily skin in this population.

Skin ageing: A comparison between Chinese and European populations

BACKGROUND

Although limited data are available, it is commonly considered that Europeans and Asians have different skin ageing features.

OBJECTIVES

The present studies have been carried out to evaluate the influence of age and sun-exposure on the main clinical signs of Asian skin ageing.

METHODS

One hundred and sixty Chinese and 160 French age-matched women (age range: 20-60 years old) were clinically examined and scored by the same dermatologist. Facial wrinkles (crow's-feet, glabella and perioral wrinkles) and pigmented spots (on face and hands) were assessed in situ and standardized photographs of the face were taken. Lifelong sun-exposure was estimated from answers to a questionnaire. Comparisons were made between 10-year age groups.

RESULTS

Results show that, for each facial skin area, wrinkle onset is delayed by about 10 years in Chinese women as compared to French women. Facial wrinkling rate over the years is linear in French women and not linear in Chinese women who appear to experience a fast ageing process between age 40 and 50. Pigmented spot intensity is a much more important ageing sign in Chinese women (severe for 30% of women over 40) than in French women (severe for less than 8% of women, irrespective of age).

CONCLUSION

These first results underline that main skin ageing features (wrinkles, spots) progress differently in the Chinese and French women we have studied. They require to be confirmed on broad multicentre studies involving larger cohorts.

In vivo epidermal thickness measurement: ultrasound vs. confocal imaging

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

In this study, in vivo skin imaging methods, ultrasound (US) and confocal microscopy (CM) were compared with regards to their accuracy in measuring the epidermal thickness. In addition an attempt was made to clarify the biological significance of the second echo-rich line observed on US skin images, i.e. whether it represents the dermal-epidermal junction or the papillar-reticular dermis limit.

METHODS

US images were obtained with an in-house device (22 MHz probe) and the CM images with the VivaScope 1000 (Lucid Inc., Rochester, NY, USA). Skin from the dorsal forearm, the back of hand and the palm skin of 11 subjects (25-40 years) were examined. Repeatability of the procedure and reproducibility of the results were evaluated on repeated measurements taken at 1-month interval.

RESULTS

Both techniques are correlated. When a CM measurement is performed from the stratum corneum (SC) surface to the bottom of the papillae, results obtained with US and CM are very similar. Thus, the second echo-rich line on US skin imaging is likely to reflect a virtual line joining the bottom of the papillae. CM is limited to the measurement of a relative thin epidermis, due to the signal-to-noise ratio, which decreases with depth. US technique offers a better repeatability and reproducibility, particularly for SC measurement. This is mainly due to the small size of the investigated field of view in CM.

CONCLUSIONS

This study confirms the accuracy of US and the feasibility of CM imaging techniques for in vivo epidermal thickness measurement. Echography probably measures a maximal epidermal thickness since it encompasses the bottom of the papillae.

Ethnic variations in self-perceived sensitive skin: epidemiological survey

To examine possible ethnic variations in perception of sensitive skin, an epidemiological survey was performed in the San Francisco area. Approximately 800 telephone interviews were conducted with women from four different ethnic groups (Afro-Americans, Asians, Euro-Americans, Hispanics; approximately 200 women per group). In addition to sensitive facial skin assessments, age and other general skin condition data were collected. 52% of the subjects identified themselves as having sensitive facial skin. There was no statistical difference between the ethnic groups in terms of sensitive skin prevalence. Nevertheless, some differences were noted between ethnic subgroups of sensitive skin. Euro-Americans were characterized by a higher skin reactivity to wind and tended to be less reactive to cosmetics. Afro-Americans presented diminished skin reactivity to most environmental factors and a lower frequency of recurring facial redness. Asians appeared to have greater skin reactivity to spicy food, to sudden changes in temperature and to wind, and tended to suffer from itching more frequently. Hispanics presented a lower incidence of skin reactivity to alcohol. The differences in skin sensitivity between ethnic groups concerned mostly factors of skin reactivity and, to a lesser extent, its symptomatology. But, taken together, we note the similarities in comparing how women of varying ethnic backgrounds perceive the sensitive skin condition.

Hair diameter diversity: a clinical sign reflecting the follicle miniaturization

BACKGROUND

The degree of androgenetic alopecia is generally evaluated either by global clinical scales or time-consuming methods like phototrichogram or histological studies. We describe a new clinical and reliable scoring method based on hair diameter diversity.

OBSERVATIONS

(1) The clinical macroscopic scoring we propose for hair density was significantly correlated with Hamilton classification and with histological hair density. (2) Diversity in hair diameter was the main and most accurate clinical parameter linked to follicle miniaturization. (C) The anagen-telogen ratio decreased in parallel with the decrease in clinical hair density score.

CONCLUSIONS

Considering that hair follicle miniaturization is the key point during androgenic alopecia onset and development, diversity in hair diameter represents an important feature to consider as an accurate clinical sign reflecting hair follicle miniaturization. Moreover, diversity in hair diameter seems to be an easily accessible and reliable parameter that should be taken into consideration for further characterization of hair disorders. By itself, we believe that this clinical feature constitutes a new tool of substantial help for the diagnosis and management of androgenic alopecia.

Dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), DHEA sulfate, and aging: contribution of the DHEAge Study to a sociobiomedical issue

The secretion and the blood levels of the adrenal steroid dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) and its sulfate ester (DHEAS) decrease profoundly with age, and the question is posed whether administration of the steroid to compensate for the decline counteracts defects associated with aging. The commercial availability of DHEA outside the regular pharmaceutical-medical network in the United States creates a real public health problem that may be resolved only by appropriate long-term clinical trials in elderly men and women. Two hundred and eighty healthy individuals (women and men 60-79 years old) were given DHEA, 50 mg, or placebo, orally, daily for a year in a double-blind, placebo-controlled study. No potentially harmful accumulation of DHEAS and active steroids was recorded. Besides the reestablishment of a "young" concentration of DHEAS, a small increase of testosterone and estradiol was noted, particularly in women, and may be involved in the significantly demonstrated physiological-clinical manifestations here reported. Bone turnover improved selectively in women >70 years old, as assessed by the dual-energy x-ray absorptiometry (DEXA) technique and the decrease of osteoclastic activity. A significant increase in most libido parameters was also found in these older women. Improvement of the skin status was observed, particularly in women, in terms of hydration, epidermal thickness, sebum production, and pigmentation. A number of biological indices confirmed the lack of harmful consequences of this 50 mg/day DHEA administration over one year, also indicating that this kind of replacement therapy normalized some effects of aging, but does not create "supermen/women" (doping).

Clinical morphology of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and nonanoic acid (NAA) irritant patch test reactions at 48 h and 96 h in 152 subjects

In this study of 152 women, comparison of patch test responses between 2 irritants over 96 h at 2 symmetrical anatomical sites is studied. 2 irritants, each at 4 different concentrations (nonanoic acid (NAA) 80%, 40%, 20%, 10%; sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) 3%, 2%, 1% and 0.5%) and using propan-1ol and 'water for injection' as the respective controls, were placed as 15 microl aliquots, soaked onto filter paper discs in Finn Chambers, on the volunteer's left and right lower back. The patches were removed at 47, and read at 48 and 96 h. Irritant reactions were evaluated for erythema and surface changes by degree and area affected. Statistical analysis of the results showed that erythema decreased with time for all concentrations of NAA, and at higher concentrations for SLS. Surface changes increased with time for SLS and at higher concentrations of NAA. There was no statistically significant difference comparing left and right sides. Traditionally in patch testing, reactions which fade after 48 h have been regarded as irritant rather than allergic. This study refutes that assumption. Data from our left to right comparisons, made in the same individuals at the same time, show that irritant reactions may be more reproducible than previously appreciated.

Extension-induced changes in the microrelief of the human volar forearm: variations with age

The skin microrelief can be assessed in vivo using a noninvasive method based on the image analysis of negative replicas, shadowed by oblique illumination. This technique was used to study changes in the surface furrows of the human volar forearm, related to the degree of extension, in volunteers of three age groups. Results confirmed that the skin in elderly subjects can be characterized by the lack of one of the two perpendicular furrow orientations observed in the young. During extension of the arm, the response of the microrelief in young subjects was clearly different from that in the elderly. Young skin buffered strain through a progressive shift in line density and furrow depth from one orientation to the other, whereas in the elderly, a progressive rotation of the single furrow orientation occurred. These differences would appear to be related to changes in the architecture and physical properties of the dermis. Microrelief, in the elderly subjects, showed a mean line density of 24/cm, regardless of the degree of extension. This constancy may reflect the ultimate stage in the chronological aging of the skin and may be characteristic of a loosened and relaxed dermis.

[Treatment of actinic aging with topical vitamin A acid in different concentrations]

Vitamin A acid has been used for 20 years in the local treatment of acne. In 1986, Kligman published a description of the efficacy of this molecule against skin ageing. In 1987, we began a study which is still in progress. It is intended to confirm the beneficial effects already observed in photosenescence and to demonstrate them by non-invasive methods and by standardized photographs. This study was randomized and carried out under double blind. Each patient acted as her own control. The concentration administered was 0.025 per cent for 6 months and then 0.05 per cent. The patient was followed up every month for 6 months and then every 4 months. The results demonstrated a reduction in the number and depth of the wrinkles and a regression of the pigmented spots. Safety was excellent and all the patients were highly satisfied with the treatment.