A randomized, controlled, split-face, double-blind comparison of a multimodality pigment-correcting serum containing lotus sprout extract versus hydroquinone for moderate to severe facial hyperpigmentation, including melasma, in a diverse population

Background

Hyperpigmentation results in uneven skin tone, with darker skin types disproportionately affected.

Objective

Assess efficacy and safety of a novel, hydroquinone (HQ)-free, multimodal pigment-correcting serum (Advanced Brightening Treatment [ABT]) versus 4% HQ in moderate to severe hyperpigmentation, including melasma.

Methods

In this split-face study, ABT and 4% HQ were applied topically on randomly assigned facial sides twice daily for 12 weeks. Hyperpigmentation, skin tone evenness, modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI), Melasma Quality of Life Questionnaire (MelasQoL), self-assessment questionnaires, and tolerability were assessed.

Results

Subjects (n = 113; melasma subgroup, n = 44) were Asian (22%), Black/African American (27%), Hispanic (22%), and White/Caucasian (28%). ABT achieved comparable results to 4% HQ. ABT was well tolerated and resulted in improvement versus baseline at all visits in mean overall hyperpigmentation (-11.7% at week 12; P ≤ .001), skin tone evenness (-8.8%, P ≤ .005), and, in the melasma subgroup, mMASI (-50.6%; P ≤ .011) and MelasQoL scores (33.0 vs 46.6 for week 12 vs baseline, respectively; P ≤ .011), with similar results across racial subgroups. ABT was preferred over 4% HQ, with high satisfaction rate (≥89%).

Limitations

Quality of life improvements per treatment were not evaluated separately.

Conclusion

Efficacy and safety of ABT is comparable to 4% HQ in individuals with facial hyperpigmentation, including melasma, across multiple racial/ethnic backgrounds.

Combining Diamond-Tip Dermabrasion Treatments and Topical Skincare in Participants with Dry, Hyperpigmented, Photodamaged or Acne-Prone/Oily Facial Skin: A Clinical Usage Study

Purpose

An in-office diamond tip microdermabrasion device (DG) was designed to simultaneously exfoliate, extract, and infuse topical cosmetic serums into the skin to improve its appearance. Combining in-office procedures with take-home skincare may enhance treatment outcomes. This study aimed to assess the efficacy of a novel combination of DG treatments with a take-home cosmetic skincare regimen (DGR) to address facial dryness, hyperpigmentation, photodamage, or acne-prone/oily skin.

Patients and Methods

In this 12-week, open-label, single-center study, participants were assigned to 1 of 4 groups according to skin presentation: dry, hyperpigmented, photodamaged, or acne-prone/oily. All participants received 6 bi-weekly DG treatments with tailored DGR topical products. During the DG treatment, the dry, hyperpigmented, photodamaged, and acne-prone/oily groups received hydrating, brightening, antioxidant, and pore-clarifying serums, respectively. Study endpoints included investigator grading, standardized photography, and participant questionnaires.

Results

Sixteen participants aged 22 to 70 years with Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-V completed the study. Immediately after the first DG treatment, significant improvements in dryness, radiance, texture, photodamage, and fine lines were achieved (P<0.01). At 72 hours, significant improvements were maintained in all these parameters except fine lines (P<0.05). The DG and DGR combination provided significant long-term improvements at week 12 compared to baseline for dryness, radiance, texture, hyperpigmentation, photodamage, skin tone unevenness, and periocular/perioral fine lines (P<0.05).

Conclusion

The combination of DG and DGR showed significant immediate and long-term improvements in skin appearance. These results show that the DG and DGR combination is a well-tolerated and effective intervention to enhance different aspects of facial skin quality.

A Novel multi-fruit acids formula design on molecular basis for skin brightening via a system biology approach

BACKGROUND

Fruit acids have long been recognized as highly effective actives with world-wide popularity, covering skin peeling, anti-acne, anti-wrinkle applications, and skin depigmentation.

AIMS

There are complicated interconnections between the fruit acid formula and skin pigmentation behaviors. However, the lack of systematic researches on multi-ingredient formula restricted our understanding on its mechanism. Therefore, it is of great necessity to study the interactions and cascades among components, potential gene targets, signaling pathways, and biological processes via a system biology approach.

METHODS

We used system biology, molecular fingerprint, and structural biology to calculate and collect target information of the functional formula. Gene Ontology (GO) enrichment analysis was further applied to study the biological processes and pathways of the formula, and a multi-level network model of "component - molecular target - signaling pathway - skin disease" was established. Besides, the zebrafish model was utilized to verify the formula.

RESULTS

We obtained 69 hub targets by constructing a protein-protein interaction (PPI) network based on the intersection between multi-fruit acids formula (mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, niacinamide, and hydroxytyrosol) and skin indications targets (whitening-sebum balance). In vitro zebrafish models, including pigmentation, antioxidant, and radiation protection models, showed that the current formula significantly alleviated pigmentation intensity and intracellular free radical content, thus proving the efficacy of skin brightening and UV irradiation protection.

CONCLUSIONS

This research uncovered the underlying mechanism of multi-fruit acids formula and predicted its function in skin brightening and UV irradiation prevention.

Clinical brightening efficacy and safety of Melasolv™ (3,4,5-trimethoxy cinnamate thymol ester, TCTE) in Southeast Asian women

BACKGROUND

Skin darkening because of increased and irregular synthesis of melanin causes melasma, solar lentigo, and freckles. Melasolv™, produced in the early 2000s, shows potent depigmenting effect and has low cytotoxicity. It has been used as a brightening agent in cosmetics for decades.

AIMS

This study was conducted to investigate whether Melasolv™ is effective for the skin of ASEAN (Southeast Asia) women.

METHODS

We recruited ASEAN women in Singapore and divided them into two groups (active group vs. placebo group). Melasolv^™ and placebo formulations were applied twice a day for 12 weeks. The changes in the pigmented spots were visually evaluated by an expert and assessed using a spectrophotometer and Mexameter at 0, 4, 8, and 12 weeks.

RESULTS

The visual evaluation revealed significant improvements, in both size and color intensity, in the active group compared with those in the placebo group at 12 weeks. In the spectrophotometric evaluation, the L* value of the pigmented spots in the active group was significantly higher than that in the placebo group at 12 weeks. Similar results were obtained in the evaluation using the Mexameter. After 12 weeks, the melanin index of the pigmented spots significantly decreased, and it was significantly higher than that in the placebo group. There was no significant change in the erythema index. In the image analysis, there were no significant differences in skin color brightness and evenness in the active group compared with those in the placebo group.

CONCLUSION

Melasolv^™ can be effective used for skin brightening.