UV filters in everyday cosmetic products, a comparative study

Today, UV filters are found as contaminants in a variety of biological fluids and environment, e.g. in vegetable crops and surface water. This is because UV filters are widely used in everyday products. In this context, we focused this study on cosmetic products, in order to assess the importance of this source of contamination. The study of 742 cosmetic products, excluding actual sunscreen products, but including hygiene, personal care and make-up products and perfumes revealed that the most common UV filters present are butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (90 products or 12.1% of products tested), octyl methoxycinnamate (75 products or 10.1% of products tested), octocrylene (62 products or 8.3% of products tested), octyl salicylate (43 products or 5.8% of products tested) and titanium dioxide (33 products or 4.4% of products tested). Very few UV filters are found in the hygiene products (only in 12 shampoos/conditioners and in 2 shower gels) and deodorants and toothpastes are completely free of them. Conversely, make-up and perfumes are frequently formulated with at least one UV filter. Seventy-five of the two hundred and forty-four (or 30.7%) skincare products studied contained at least one UV filter. 49.1 of the makeup products studied and 74.3% of perfumes contained it.

Biomarkers activity in Oreochromis niloticus under sub-chronic exposure to a UV filters ternary mixture

The behavior of organic UV filters in aquatic ecosystems and living organisms raises concern. For the first time, biochemical biomarkers were evaluated in the liver and brain of juvenile Oreochromis niloticus exposed to 0.001 and 0.5 mg L^-1 of a benzophenone-3 (BP-3), octyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), and octocrylene (OC) mixture for 29 days. Before the exposure, the stability of these UV filters was investigated using liquid chromatography. The experiment with aeration in the aquarium showed a high percentage of concentration reduction (%) after 24 h: 62 ± 2 for BP-3, 96 ± 6 for EHMC, and 88 ± 2 for OC versus 5 ± 4 for BP-3, 8 ± 7 for EHMC, and 2 ± 3 for OC when without aeration. These results defined the bioassay protocol. The stability of the filters concentrations after being stored in PET flasks and subjected to freezing and thawing cycles was also verified. In PET bottles, the BP-3, EHMC, and OC presented concentration reductions of 8 ± 1, 28 ± 7 and 25 ± 5 respectively, after 96 h storage and four freezing cycles. In falcon tubes the concentration reductions observed were 47 ± 2 for BP-3, >95 ± 1 for EHMC and 86 ± 2 for OC after 48 h and two cycles. The 29 days of sub-chronic exposure indicated the occurrence of oxidative stress through the enhanced lipid peroxidation (LPO) levels for the groups exposed to both bioassay concentrations. The catalase (CAT), glutathione-S-transferase (GST), and acetylcholinesterase (AChE) activities did not show significant alterations. The genetic adverse effects were analyzed in erythrocytes of fish exposed to 0.001 mg L^-1 of the mixture by comet and micronucleus biomarkers and no significant damage was observed.

Formulating octyl methoxycinnamate in hybrid lipid-silica nanoparticles: An innovative approach for UV skin protection

Sunscreens have been employed on daily skin care for centuries. Their role in protecting the skin from sun damage, avoiding accelerated photoaging and even limiting the risk of development of skin cancer is unquestionable. Although several chemical and physical filters are approved as sunscreens for human use, their safety profile is dependent on their concentration in the formulation which governs their acceptance by the regulatory agencies. A strategic delivery of such molecules should provide a UV protection and limit the skin penetration. Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) may offer an alternative approach to achieve a synergistic effect on the UV protection when loaded with sunscreens as particles themselves also have a UV light scattering effect. Besides, the lipid character of SLN and NLC improves the encapsulation of lipophilic compounds, with enhanced loading capacity. Silica nanoparticles have also been employed in sunscreen formulations. Due to the formed sol-gel complexes, which covalently entrap sunscreen molecules, a controlled release is also achieved. In the present work, we have developed a new sunscreen formulation composed of hybrid SLN-Silica particles loaded with octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol®MCX), and their further incorporation into a hydrogel for skin administration. Hybrid SLN-silica particles of 210.0 ± 3.341 nm of mean size, polydispersity below 0.3, zeta potential of ca. |7| mV, loading capacity of 19.9% and encapsulation efficiency of 98.3% have been produced. Despite the slight negative surface charge, the developed hybrid nanoparticles remained physicochemically stable over the study period. Turbiscan transmission profiles confirmed the colloidal stability of the formulations under stress conditions. The texture profile analysis of Parsol-SLN and Parsol-SLN-Si revealed semi-solid properties (e.g. adhesiveness, hardness, cohesiveness, springiness, gumminess, chewiness, resilience) suitable for topical application, together with the bioadhesiveness in the skin of pig ears. The non-irritation profile of the hybrid nanoparticles before and after dispersion into Carbopol hydrogels was confirmed by HET-CAM test.

Preparation and Evaluation of Sunscreen Nanoemulsions with Synergistic Efficacy on SPF by Combination of Soybean Oil, Avobenzone, and Octyl Methoxycinnamate

BACKGROUND:

Soybean oil contains vitamin E and acts as a natural sunscreen which can absorb Ultra Violet (UV) B light and has antioxidant properties to reduce the photooxidative damage that results from UV-induced Reactive Oxygen Species production. The UV blocking from most natural oils is insufficient to obtain a high UV protection. The strategies for preparations of sunscreen products with high SPF can be done by nanoemulsion formulation and Ultra Violet filter combinations of Soybean Oil, Avobenzone and Octyl methoxycinnamate.

AIM:

The purpose of this study was to prepare and in vitro efficacy evaluation of sunscreen nanoemulsion containing Soybean oil, Avobenzone and Octyl methoxycinnamate.

METHODS:

The sunscreen nanoemulsions were prepared by the high energy emulsification method. The formulation uses a combination of 3% Avobenzone, 7.5% Octyl methoxycinnamate, with different ratio of Soybean oil and Liquid Paraffin. The nanoemulsion was evaluated for droplet sizes by using particle size analyzer, physical stability in room temperature (25 ± 2°C during experiment for 12 weeks of storage, physical stability (cycling test), phase separation by centrifugation at 3750 rpm for 5 hours, pH, viscosity, and Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value by UV spectrophotometric. The SPF value of sunscreen nanoemulsion was compared to sunscreen nanoemulsion without Soybean Oil and sunscreen emulsion. Particle morphology observation of nanoemulsion by using Transmission Electron Microscope.

RESULTS:

The sunscreen nanoemulsion formulation containing a combination of 3% Avobenzone, 7.5% Octyl methoxycinnamate with a ratio of 2.73% Soybean Oil and 0.27% Paraffin Oil resulted in the smallest average droplet size of 68.47 nm. The sunscreen nanoemulsion without Soybean Oil had an average droplet size of 384.07 nm. The globules size was increased during the experiment for 12 weeks of storage at room temperature, but there was no phase separation after centrifugation. The formulation of sunscreen emulsion, phase separation was formed after centrifugation. The nanoemulsion had a pH value of 7.23 ± 0.06 and a viscosity value of 133.33 ± 7.22 cP. The sunscreen nanoemulsion containing a combination of 3% Avobenzone, 7.5% Octyl methoxycinnamate 2.73%, Soybean Oil, 2.73% and 0.27% Liquid Paraffin had SPF value (21.57 ± 1.21) higher than sunscreen nanoemulsion without Soybean Oil (16.52 ± 0.98) and sunscreen emulsion (15.10 ± 0.22). The TEM analysis of globules morphology showed that the sunscreen nanoemulsion formed a spherical globule.

CONCLUSION:

The sunscreen nanoemulsion containing a combination of 3% Avobenzone, 7.5% Octyl Methoxycinnamate, 2.73% Soybean Oil and 0.27% Liquid Paraffin showed synergistic sunscreen efficacy on SPF. This sunscreen nanoemulsion is more stable than sunscreen emulsion formulation during the experiment for 12 weeks at room temperature.

Using ordered mesoporous silica SBA-15 to limit cutaneous penetration and transdermal permeation of organic UV filters

Avobenzone (AVO), oxybenzone (OXY), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), are widely used UV filters. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of incorporation in mesoporous silica (SBA-15) on their cutaneous deposition and permeation. Stick formulations containing "free" and "incorporated" UV filters (SF1 and SF2, respectively) were prepared and characterized with respect to their physicochemical, thermal, and functional properties. Cutaneous delivery experiments using porcine skin with quantification by UHPLC-MS/MS, demonstrated that skin deposition of AVO and OXY after application of SF2 for 6 and 12 h was significantly lower than that from SF1 at each time-point (Student t-test, p < 0.05): e.g. OXY permeation across the skin was 30-, 12- and 1.5-fold lower after 6, 12 and 24 h, respectively, following application of SF2. Cutaneous biodistribution profiles of AVO and OXY to 800 µm evidenced a significant decrease in the amounts in the viable epidermis and dermis. In contrast, deposition of the more lipophilic OMC was not significantly different (p ˃ 0.05). In vitro photoprotective efficacy results demonstrated that adsorption/entrapment of UV filters enhanced the sun protection factor by 94%. In conclusion, SBA-15, an innovative mesoporous material, increased photoprotection by UV filters while reducing their cutaneous penetration and transdermal permeation.

Neurotoxic effect of active ingredients in sunscreen products, a contemporary review

Sunscreen application is the main strategy used to prevent the maladies inflicted by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Despite the continuously increasing frequency of sunscreen use worldwide, the prevalence of certain sun exposure-related pathologies, mainly malignant melanoma, is also on the rise. In the past century, a variety of protective agents against UV exposure have been developed. Physical filters scatter and reflect UV rays and chemical filters absorb those rays. Alongside the evidence for increasing levels of these agents in the environment, which leads to indirect exposure of wildlife and humans, recent studies suggest a toxicological nature for some of these agents. Reviews on the role of these agents in developmental and endocrine impairments (both pathology and related mechanisms) are based on both animal and human studies, yet information regarding the potential neurotoxicity of these agents is scant. In this review, data regarding the neurotoxicity of several organic filters: octyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone-3 and −4, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor and octocrylene, and two allowed inorganic filters: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, is presented and discussed. Taken together, this review advocates revisiting the current safety and regulation of specific sunscreens and investing in alternative UV protection technologies.

Synthesis, antioxidant and photoprotection activities of hybrid derivatives useful to prevent skin cancer

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is a major cause of skin cancer. A novel series of hybrid derivatives (I-VIII) for use in sunscreen formulations were synthesized by molecular hybridization of t-resveratrol, avobenzone, and octyl methoxycinnamate, and were characterized. The antioxidant activity values for VIII were comparable than to those of t-resveratrol. Compounds I-III and VI demonstrated Sun Protector Factor superior to that of t-resveratrol. Compounds I and IV-VIII were identified as new, broad-spectrum UVA filters while II-III were UVB filters. In conclusion, novel hybrid derivatives with antioxidant effects have emerged as novel photoprotective agents for the prevention of skin cancer.