The fate of pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) in sewer sediments:Adsorption triggering resistance gene proliferation

In recent years, large quantities of pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) have been discharged into sewers, while the mechanisms of PPCPs enrichment in sewer sediments have rarely been revealed. In this study, three PPCPs (tetracycline, sulfamethoxazole, and triclocarban) were added consecutively over a 90-day experimental period to reveal the mechanisms of PPCPs enrichment and the transmission of resistance genes in sewer sediments. The results showed that tetracycline (TC) and triclocarban (TCC) have higher adsorption concentration in sediments compared to sulfamethoxazole (SMX). The absolute abundance of Tets and suls genes increased in sediments under PPCPs pressure. The increase in secretion of extracellular polymeric substances (EPS) and the loosening of the structure exposed a large number of hydrophobic functional groups, which promoted the adsorption of PPCPs. The absolute abundance of antibiotic resistance genes (ARGs), EPS and the content of PPCPs in sediments exhibited significant correlations. The enrichment of PPCPs in sediments was attributed to the accumulation of EPS, which led to the proliferation of ARGs. These findings contributed to further understanding of the fate of PPCPs in sewer sediments and opened a new perspective for consideration of controlling the proliferation of resistance genes.

Exploring the potential of Moringa oleifera Lam in skin disorders and cosmetics: nutritional analysis, phytochemistry, geographical distribution, ethnomedicinal uses, dermatological studies and cosmetic formulations

Moringa oleifera Lam. is a pan-tropical plant well known to the ancient world for its extensive therapeutic benefits in the Ayurvedic and Unani medical systems. The ancient world was familiar with this tree, but it has only lately been rediscovered as a multifunctional species with a huge range of possible therapeutic applications. It is a folk remedy for skin diseases, edema, sore gums, etc. This review comprises the history, ethnomedicinal applications, botanical characteristics, geographic distribution, propagation, nutritional and phytochemical profile, dermatological effects, and commercially available cosmeceuticals of Moringa oleifera Lam.Compilation of all the presented data has been done by employing various search engines like Science Direct, Google, PubMed, Research Gate, EBSCO, SciVal, SCOPUS, and Google Scholar.Studies on phytochemistry claim the presence of a variety of substances, including fatty acids, phenolic acids, sterols, oxalates, tocopherols, carotenoids, flavonoids, flavonols glycosides, tannins, terpenoids, terpene, saponins, phylates, alkaloids, glucosinolates, glycosides, and isothiocyanate. The pharmacological studies have shown the efficacy of Moringa oleifera Lam. as an antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-atopic dermatitis, antipsoriatic, promoter of wound healing, effective in treating herpes simplex virus, photoprotective, and UV protective. As a moisturizer, conditioner, hair growth promoter, cleanser, antiwrinkle, anti-aging, anti-acne, scar removal, pigmentation, and control for skin infection, sores, as well as sweating, it has also been utilized in a range of cosmeceuticals.he Moringa oleifera Lam. due to its broad range of phytochemicals can be proven boon for the treatment of dermatological disorders.

Effects of dissolved organic matter and halogen ions on phototransformation of pharmaceuticals and personal care products in aquatic environments

Photochemical reactions contribute to the attenuation and transformation of pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) in surface natural waters. Nevertheless, effects of DOM and halogen ions on phototransformation of PPCPs remain elusive. This work selected disparate PPCPs as target pollutants to investigate their aquatic phototransformation processes. Results show that PPCPs containing multiple electron-donating groups (-OH, -NH2, -OR, etc.) are more reactive with photochemically produced reactive intermediates (PPRIs) such as triplet DOM (3DOM*), singlet oxygen (1O2), and reactive halogen species (RHSs), relative to PPCPs containing electron-withdrawing groups (-NOR, -COOR, -OCR, etc.). The generation of RHSs as a result of the coexistance of DOM and halide ions changed the contribution of PPRIs to the photochemical conversion of PPCPs during their migration from fresh water to seawater. For PPCPs (AMP, SMZ, PN, NOR, CIP, etc) with highly reactive groups toward RHSs, the generation of RHSs facilitated their photolysis in halide ion-rich waters, where Cl- plays a critical role in the photochemical transformation of PPCPs. Density functional theory (DFT) calculations showed that single electron transfer and H-abstraction are main reaction pathways of RHSs with the PPCPs. These results demonstate the irreplaceable roles of PPRIs and revealing the underlying reaction mechanisms during the phototransformation of PPCPs, which contributes to a better understanding of the environmental behaviors of PPCPs in complex aquatic environments.

Time-dependent hormesis transfer from five high-frequency personal care product components to mixtures

There is potential for personal care products (PCPs) components and mixtures to induce hormesis. How hormesis is related to time and transmitted from components to mixtures are not clear. In this paper, we conducted determination of components in 16 PCP products and then ran frequent itemset mining on the component data. Five high-frequency components (HFCs), betaine (BET), 1,3-butanediol (BUT), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt (EDTA), glycerol (GLO), and phenoxyethanol (POE), and 14 mixtures were identified. For each mixture system, one mixture ray with the actual mixture ratios in the products was selected. Time-dependent microplate toxicity analysis was used to test the luminescence inhibition toxicity of five HFCs and 14 mixture rays to Vibrio qinghaiensis sp.-Q67 at 12 concentration gradients and eight exposure times. It is showed that BET, EDTA, POE, and 13 mixture rays containing at least one J-type component showed time-dependent hormesis. Characteristic parameters used to describe hormesis revealed that the absolute value of the maximum stimulatory effect (|Emin|) generally increased with time. Notably, mixtures composed of POE and S-type components showed greater |Emin| than POE alone at the same time. Importantly, the maximum stimulatory effective concentration, NOEC/the zero effective concentration point, and EC50 remained relatively stable. Nine hormesis transmission phenomena were observed in different mixture rays. While all mixtures primarily exhibited additive action, varying degrees of synergism and antagonism were noted in binary mixtures, with no strong synergism or antagonism observed in ternary and quaternary mixtures. These findings offer valuable insights for the screening of HFCs and their mixtures, as well as the study of hormesis transmission in personal care products.

Results of patch testing 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) in the European baseline series: A 4-year retrospective study

BACKGROUND

2-Hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) was added to the European baseline series (EBS) in 2019. Few recent data are available on the frequency and relevance of positive reactions to this hapten.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the frequency and relevance of positive patch tests to HEMA in the EBS in a university hospital in Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Retrospective study in patients with positive patch tests to HEMA investigated between June 2019 and August 2023.

RESULTS

Of 2927 consecutive patients, 88 (79 women and 9 men; 3.0%) had a positive reaction to HEMA. The prevalence in women was 3.9%, in men 1.0%. Forty-three (49%) reactions were judged to be of current clinical relevance and 21 (24%) of past relevance. In this group of 64 patients with relevant reactions, 18 (28%) had occupational contact with (meth)acrylate-containing products, of who 11 (61%) were nail stylists. In 46 patients with non-occupational allergic contact dermatitis, 31 (67%) had allergic reactions to nail cosmetics. Glues and glue-containing products accounted for 22% of the materials causing allergic contact dermatitis and dental products for 8%.

CONCLUSIONS

Allergic reactions to HEMA are very frequent in women investigated in Amsterdam. Nearly two thirds of cases were caused by nail cosmetics.

Unveiling combined ecotoxicity: Interactions and impacts of engineered nanoparticles and PPCPs

Emerging contaminants such as engineered nanoparticles (ENPs), pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) are of great concern because of their wide distribution and incomplete removal in conventional wastewater and soil treatment processes. The production and usage of ENPs and PPCPs inevitably result in their coexistence in different environmental media, thus posing various risks to organisms in aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems. However, the existing literature on the physicochemical interactions between ENPs and PPCPs and their effects on organisms is rather limited. Therefore, this paper summarized the ecotoxicity of combined ENPs and PPCPs by discussing: (1) the interactions between ENPs and PPCPs, including processes such as aggregation, adsorption, transformation, and desorption, considering the influence of environmental factors like pH, ionic strength, dissolved organic matter, and temperature; (2) the effects of these interactions on bioaccumulation, bioavailability and biotoxicity in organisms at different trophic levels; (3) the impacted of ENPs and PPCPs on cellular-level biological process. This review elucidated the potential ecological hazards associated with the interaction of ENPs and PPCPs, and serves as a foundation for future investigations into the ecotoxicity and mode of action of ENPs, PPCPs, and their co-occurring metabolites.

Dermal absorption of cyclic and linear siloxanes: a review

Cyclic and linear siloxanes are compounds synthesized from silicon consisting of alternating atoms of silicone and oxygen [Si-O] units with organic side chains. The most common cyclic siloxanes are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5), and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), while the most common linear siloxanes are high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and low molecular weight volatile linear siloxanes known as hexamethyldisiloxane (L2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), dodecamethylpentasiloxane (L5). These compounds (1) exhibit low dermal toxicity, (2) are generally inert and non-reactive, and (3) are compatible with a wide range of chemicals offering beneficial chemical properties which include the following: wash-off or transfer resistance from the skin, sun protection factor (SPF) enhancement, emolliency in cleaning products). Because of these properties, these compounds are incorporated into multiple consumer products for use on the skin, such as cosmetics and health-care products, with over 300,000 tons annually sold into the personal care and consumer products sector. Because of their widespread use in consumer products and potential for human dermal exposure, a comprehensive understanding of the dermal absorption and overall fate of siloxanes following dermal exposure is important. This review summarizes available data associated with the dermal absorption/penetration as well as fate of the most commonly used siloxane substances.

Current strategies on bioremediation of personal care products and detergents: Sustainability and life cycle assessment

The increased use of personal care products and detergents in modern society has raised concerns about their potential adverse effects on the environment. These products contain various chemical compounds that can persist in water bodies, leading to water pollution and ecological disturbances. Bioremediation has emerged as a promising approach to address these challenges, utilizing the natural capabilities of microorganisms to degrade or remove these contaminants. This review examines the current strategies employed in the bioremediation of personal care products and detergents, with a specific focus on their sustainability and environmental impact. This bioremediation is essential for environmental rejuvenation, as it uses living organisms to detergents and other daily used products. Its distinctiveness stems from sustainable, nature-centric ways that provide eco-friendly solutions for pollution eradication and nurturing a healthy planet, all while avoiding copying. Explores the use of microbial consortia, enzyme-based treatments, and novel biotechnological approaches in the context of environmental remediation. Additionally, the ecological implications and long-term sustainability of these strategies are assessed. Understanding the strengths and limitations of these bioremediation techniques is essential for developing effective and environmentally friendly solutions to mitigate the impact of personal care products and detergents on ecosystems.

Contribution of cosmetic ingredients and skin care textures to emotions

OBJECTIVE

Emotions play an important role in consumers' perception of a sensory experience. The objective of this work was to investigate the ability of basic skin care formulas (i.e. without interference of odour, colour and packaging) and pillar ingredients (i.e. emollients and rheology modifiers) to elicit emotions. Another objective was to track, as claimed by neurocosmetics, the possible effect of formulas to trigger emotions from their direct biochemical effects on the skin.

METHODS

Standard methodologies were mobilized, combining subjective and behavioural parameters (i.e. verbatim, prosody and gesture). Sense and Story methodology based on a collection of metaphoric verbatim was conducted after an induction phase. In addition, an experimental electrophysiological real-time visualization method was tried as a first experience in cosmetics. Finally, the ability of formulations with emotional benefits to modulate the release of neuropeptides by sensory neurons was evaluated on a 3D human model (epidermis co-cultured with sensory neurons).

RESULTS

Skin care formulas were shown to play a role in emotional potential and the types of emotion generated, while changing one ingredient mostly acted on the intensity of the emotions. Verbatim provided contrasted answers depending on the protocol, highlighting the interest of non-verbal approaches to detect subtle effects. The in vitro model substantiated physiological effects of skin care formulas with emotional potential on human skin sensory neuron activity.

CONCLUSION

Emotions were impacted by the change in ingredients and were better captured through non-verbal methods.

The topical application of different galenic formulations can alter the thermographic images of skin: Limitations for public thermal screening on infection control situations

BACKGROUND

To analyze whether the application of topical formulas as cosmetics or sunscreens could affect the skin thermographic readings in terms of infection control in pandemic situations.

METHODS

The temperature of the skin of the dorsal region of the back and the face of 20 volunteers was followed after the application of 6 different types of gels, sunscreens, and make-up under controlled temperature and humidity conditions. High-resolution thermographic images were analyzed to calculate the temperature of treated skin compared to skin free of topical products.

RESULTS

The application of hydroalcoholic gel resulted in a mean drop of more than 2°C just after 1 minute followed by organic sunscreens until 1.7°C. Recovery was observed progressively until minute 9. Color make-up type formulas, rich in iron oxide as well as sunscreens with mineral filters had little or no effect on the skin thermal response.

CONCLUSIONS

It is possible to alter the skin temperature almost immediately by using hydroalcoholic gels and sunscreen cosmetics. So, it is possible to produce false negative data in the readings of patients screened thermically.

Characterization and applications of biomacromolecule structurally similar to glycogen as a dispersion aid and skin protection agent

Glycogen is a naturally occurring or metabolically synthesized biological macromolecule found in a wide range of living organisms, including animals, microorganisms, and even plants. However, naturally sourced glycogen poses challenges for industrial use. This study focused on a biological macromolecule referred to as glycogen-like particles (GLPs), detailing the production methods and biological properties of these particles. In vitro enzymatic production of GLPs was successfully achieved. GLPs synthesized through a simultaneous enzymatic reaction using sucrose had significant changes in their structure and functionality based on the branching enzyme (BE) to amylosucrase (ASase) ratio. As this ratio increased, the GLPs developed higher molecular weights and greater density, solubility, and branching degree while reducing size and turbidity. Structural changes in these enzymes were not observed beyond a critical BE/ASase ratio. Uniformly dispersed curcumin powder was generated in 50 % (w/v) aqueous GLP solution, and the GLPs were non-toxic to human skin keratinocytes at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL. GLPs with lower branching inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis, while those with more long chains displayed effective UV-blocking. By manipulating the BE/ASase ratio, GLPs were shown to display diverse chemical structures and physical characteristics, suggesting their potential application in the food and cosmetics industries.

Sensitisation to ethylhexyl salicylate: Another piece of the frontal fibrosing alopecia puzzle

BACKGROUND

There is speculation that some environmental factors may be impacting the increasing incidence of frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA). In a recent publication, sensitisation to benzyl salicylate was shown to be prevalent among 36 patients with FFA. Ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), a light stabiliser, ultraviolet (UV) B absorber and UV filter, frequently found in photoprotectors/cosmetics and, rarely reported as a sensitiser, was not patch tested in said research.

METHODS

From January 2021 to February 2022, 33 patients with FFA were patch-tested with the European Photopatch Series, including EHS 10% pet. in two hospitals. In addition, we conducted a literature review and a market survey.

RESULTS

Patch test reactions to EHS were identified in 9 of 33 (27.3%). Four of nine also reacted to their personal sunscreens (containing EHS). All involved women with a mean age of 54 (30-65). Five patients had been diagnosed with FFA before the patch tests; and, four were diagnosed with FFA during the patch test investigations.

CONCLUSION

Sensitisation to EHS was frequently found in a selected population of patients with FFA. We propose to expand the spectrum of contact allergens described in patients with FFA to include EHS and discuss the possible need for optimization of the patch test preparation.

Monitoring Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products in Healthcare Effluent Wastewater Samples and the Effectiveness of Drug Removal in Wastewater Treatment Plants Using the UHPLC-MS/MS Method

A multi-residue UHPLC-MS/MS analytical method, previously developed for monitoring 52 pharmaceuticals in drinking water, was used to analyse these pharmaceuticals in wastewater originating from healthcare facilities in the Czech Republic. Furthermore, the methodology was expanded to include the evaluation of the effectiveness of drug removal in Czech wastewater treatment plants (WWTPs). Of the 18 wastewater samples analysed by the validated UHPLC-MS/MS, each sample contained at least one quantifiable analyte. This study reveals the prevalence of several different drugs; mean concentrations of 702 μg L-1 of iomeprol, 48.8 μg L-1 of iopromide, 29.9 μg L-1 of gabapentin, 42.0 μg L-1 of caffeine and 82.5 μg L-1 of paracetamol were present. An analysis of 20 samples from ten WWTPs revealed different removal efficiencies for different analytes. Paracetamol was present in the inflow samples of all ten WWTPs and its removal efficiency was 100%. Analytes such as caffeine, ketoprofen, naproxen or atenolol showed high removal efficiencies exceeding 80%. On the other hand, pharmaceuticals like furosemide, metoprolol, iomeprol, zolpidem and tramadol showed lower removal efficiencies. Four pharmaceuticals exhibited higher concentrations in WWTP effluents than in the influents, resulting in negative removal efficiencies: warfarin at -9.5%, indomethacin at -53%, trimethoprim at -54% and metronidazole at -110%. These comprehensive findings contribute valuable insights to the pharmaceutical landscape of wastewater from healthcare facilities and the varied removal efficiencies of Czech WWTPs, which together with the already published literature, gives a more complete picture of the burden on the aquatic environment.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

Film-Forming, Moisturizing, and Sensory Properties of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tara Gum and Brazilian Berry Extracts

The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

Do hypoallergenic skincare products contain fewer potential contact allergens?

Personal care products (PCPs) commonly cause allergic contact dermatitis (ACD). Skincare companies often market their products as 'hypoallergenic'; however, this term is not regulated by industry standards. To determine whether PCPs marketed as hypoallergenic are truly less likely to precipitate ACD, we conducted a study of ingredients found in 'hypoallergenic PCPs' from two major UK retailers in 2022. Of 208 products meeting the inclusion criteria, 153 (73.6%) contained at least 1 allergen or related chemical from the British Society for Cutaneous Allergy baseline series, 21 (10.1%) had 2 potential allergens and 4 PCPs (1.9%) had 3 allergens. Cetearyl alcohol was the most common -allergen identified in leave-on PCPs and parabens in rinse-off products; fragrance was the most frequent related chemical found in 85 PCPs (40.1%). A high prevalence of common allergens was found in hypoallergenic PCPs, suggesting that dermatologists and consumers should be cautious of product ingredients.

Detection of fragrances on the skin and study of their interaction using infrared and Raman spectroscopy

Nowadays, fragrances belong to the widely used cosmetics. Their composition is designed in a way that it evolves and changes over time. In this work, the effect of fragrances on the skin was studied - the interactions between pig skin samples and fragrances and the possibility of their detection and mutual differentiation. Non-invasive techniques of vibrational spectroscopy were used to obtain the data, namely FT-IR spectroscopy with attenuated total reflection accessory and Raman microspectroscopy. Vibrational spectra were measured within 8 h with different time intervals and after 22 h from the application of fragrance for FT-IR and Raman measurements, respectively. The obtained spectra were pre‑processed and subsequently evaluated by multivariate statistical methods. The study showed that skin treated by fragrances is well distinguishable from untreated skin, even after 22 h. In addition, it is possible to differentiate individual fragrances from each other; therefore, the use of spectroscopical techniques could be a potential tool for forensic analysis of fragrances.

An assessment and characterization of pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) within the Great Lakes Basin: Mussel Watch Program (2013-2018)

Defining the environmental occurrence and distribution of chemicals of emerging concern (CECs), including pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) in coastal aquatic systems, is often difficult and complex. In this study, 70 compounds representing several classes of pharmaceuticals, including antibiotics, anti-inflammatories, insect repellant, antibacterial, antidepressants, chemotherapy drugs, and X-ray contrast media compounds, were found in dreissenid mussel (zebra/quagga; Dreissena spp.) tissue samples. Overall concentration and detection frequencies varied significantly among sampling locations, site land-use categories, and sites sampled proximate and downstream of point source discharge. Verapamil, triclocarban, etoposide, citalopram, diphenhydramine, sertraline, amitriptyline, and DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) comprised the most ubiquitous PPCPs (> 50%) detected in dreissenid mussels. Among those compounds quantified in mussel tissue, sertraline, metformin, methylprednisolone, hydrocortisone, 1,7-dimethylxanthine, theophylline, zidovudine, prednisone, clonidine, 2-hydroxy-ibuprofen, iopamidol, and melphalan were detected at concentrations up to 475 ng/g (wet weight). Antihypertensives, antibiotics, and antidepressants accounted for the majority of the compounds quantified in mussel tissue. The results showed that PPCPs quantified in dreissenid mussels are occurring as complex mixtures, with 4 to 28 compounds detected at one or more sampling locations. The magnitude and composition of PPCPs detected were highest for sites not influenced by either WWTP or CSO discharge (i.e., non-WWTPs), strongly supporting non-point sources as important drivers and pathways for PPCPs detected in this study. As these compounds are detected at inshore and offshore locations, the findings of this study indicate that their persistence and potential risks are largely unknown, thus warranting further assessment and prioritization of these emerging contaminants in the Great Lakes Basin.

Translation, cultural adaptation, and validation of the Standardized Cosmesis and Health Nasal Outcomes Survey in Japanese (J-SCHNOS)

BACKGROUND

Rhinoplasty is one of the most popular plastic surgery techniques. The evaluation of both functional and cosmetic aspects of rhinoplasty is essential for planning and assessing surgery results. The Standardized Cosmesis and Health Nasal Outcomes Survey (SCHNOS) is a validated questionnaire used to assess both functional and aesthetic symptoms in patients with nasal problems, and it has been translated into several languages. The purpose of this study was to translate, culturally adapt, and validate the SCHNOS in Japanese among patients undergoing rhinoplasty.

METHODS

This was a prospective validation study of the Japanese version of the SCHNOS (J-SCHNOS). The first phase involved translation and cross-cultural adaptation of the SCHNOS. The second phase included validation of the J-SCHNOS among native Japanese speakers.

RESULTS

In total, 357 participants completed the final version of the J-SCHNOS (219 males and 138 females; mean age 43.4 years). The J-SCHNOS showed high internal consistency with excellent Cronbach's alpha values for both obstruction (SCHNOS-O) (0.96) and cosmetic (SCHNOS-C) (0.93) domains. The reproducibility was high, with an excellent intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC) >0.9 for all items. Exploratory factor analysis showed unidimensional structures in both the SCHNOS-O and the SCHNOS-C.

CONCLUSION

The J-SCHNOS is a reliable and valid tool to assess the severity of nasal problems in patients undergoing rhinoplasty.

Perioral Filler Augmentation

Perioral tissues are among the first areas to show signs of facial aging, leading many patients to seek perioral fillers as their initial cosmetic treatment. These fillers offer a temporary solution by enhancing volume and reducing common facial lines. Various regions within the perioral area can be targeted, including the lips, nasolabial folds, philtral columns, vertical lip rhytids, oral commissures, melomental folds, mentolabial folds, and nasolabial folds. The technique for injecting perioral fillers depends on the specific region, chosen product, and the desired outcome of augmentation.

Predicting the Accumulation of Ionizable Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products in Aquatic and Terrestrial Organisms

The extent to which chemicals bioaccumulate in aquatic and terrestrial organisms represents a fundamental consideration for chemicals management efforts intended to protect public health and the environment from pollution and waste. Many chemicals, including most pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs), are ionizable across environmentally relevant pH gradients, which can affect their fate in aquatic and terrestrial systems. Existing mathematical models describe the accumulation of neutral organic chemicals and weak acids and bases in both fish and plants. Further model development is hampered, however, by a lack of mechanistic insights for PPCPs that are predominantly or permanently ionized. Targeted experiments across environmentally realistic conditions are needed to address the following questions: (1) What are the partitioning and sorption behaviors of strongly ionizing chemicals among species? (2) How does membrane permeability of ions influence bioaccumulation of PPCPs? (3) To what extent are salts and associated complexes with PPCPs influencing bioaccumulation? (4) How do biotransformation and other elimination processes vary within and among species? (5) Are bioaccumulation modeling efforts currently focused on chemicals and species with key data gaps and risk profiles? Answering these questions promises to address key sources of uncertainty for bioaccumulation modeling of ionizable PPCPs and related contaminants. Environ Toxicol Chem 2024;43:502-512. © 2022 The Authors. Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry published by Wiley Periodicals LLC on behalf of SETAC.

Personal care products: an emerging threat to the marine bivalve Ruditapes philippinarum

In the last few decades, there has been a growing interest in understanding the behavior of personal care products (PCPs) in the aquatic environment. In this regard, the aim of this study is to estimate the accumulation and effects of four PCPs within the clam Ruditapes philippinarum. The PCPs selected were triclosan, OTNE, benzophenone-3, and octocrylene. A progressive uptake was observed and maximum concentrations in tissues were reached at the end of the exposure phase, up to levels of 0.68 µg g-1, 24 µg g-1, 0.81 µg g-1, and 1.52 µg g-1 for OTNE, BP-3, OC, and TCS, respectively. After the PCP post-exposure period, the removal percentages were higher than 65%. The estimated logarithm bioconcentration factor ranged from 3.34 to 2.93, in concordance with the lipophobicity of each substance. No lethal effects were found although significant changes were observed for ethoxyresorufin O-demethylase activity, glutathione S-transferase activity, lipid peroxidation, and DNA damage.

A critical review of distribution, toxicological effects, current analytical methods and future prospects of synthetic musks in aquatic environments

Synthetic musks (SMs) have gained widespread utilization in daily consumer products, leading to their widespread dissemination in aquatic environments through various pathways. Over the past few decades, the production of SMs has consistently risen, prompting significant concern over their potential adverse impacts on ecosystems and human health. Although several studies have focused on the development of analytical techniques for detecting SMs in biological samples and cosmetic products, a comprehensive evaluation of their global distribution in diverse aquatic media and biological matrices remains lacking. This review aims to provide an up-to-date overview of the occurrence of SMs in both aquatic and various biological matrices, investigating their worldwide distribution trends, assessing their ecological toxicity, and comparing different methodologies for processing and analysis of SMs. The findings underscore the prevalence of polycyclic musks as predominant SMs, with consumption of various products in different countries leading to contrasting distribution of contaminants. Furthermore, the migration of SMs from sediments to the water phase is investigated, indicating the role of solid-phase reservoirs. Incomplete degradation of SMs in the environment could contribute to their accumulation in aquatic systems, impacting the growth and oxidative stress of aquatic organisms, and having a possibility of genotoxicity to them. Human exposure data highlight substantial risks for vulnerable populations such as pregnant women and infants. Moreover, contemporary methods for SMs analysis are presented in this review, particularly focusing on advancements made in the last five years. Finally, research enhancement and critical questions regarding the analysis of SMs are provided, offering suggestions for future research endeavors.

Minimally invasive cosmetic procedures for mothers of brides: Strategies and considerations

The pivotal role of the bride's mothers in wedding celebrations is an effective motivation to seek cosmetic therapies, making them frequent patients in a dermatologists' offices. Addressing their aesthetic concerns contributes to their holistic well-being, but faces an intricate relationship between time availability, financial factors, and the critical emotional context. This article underscores the varying behavioral patterns of mothers of brides when seeking aesthetic treatments, providing tailored strategies for effective communication and decision-making, based on individual personalities. Additionally, this paper presents a specific timeline for the implementation of these interventions, including neuromodulators, collagen stimulators, and fillers. Understanding the unique traits and expectations of this particular population can lead to improved patient satisfaction, enhanced outcomes, and an overall positive experience.

Microneedles: A novel clinical technology for evaluating skin characteristics

BACKGROUND

Current methods for evaluating efficacy of cosmetics have limitations because they cannot accurately measure changes in the dermis. Skin sampling using microneedles allows identification of skin-type biomarkers, monitoring treatment for skin inflammatory diseases, and evaluating efficacy of anti-aging and anti-pigmentation products.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Two studies were conducted: First, 20 participants received anti-aging treatment; second, 20 participants received anti-pigmentation treatment. Non-invasive devices measured skin aging (using high-resolution 3D-imaging in the anti-aging study) or pigmentation (using spectrophotometry in the anti-pigmentation study) at weeks 0 and 4, and adverse skin reactions were monitored. Skin samples were collected with biocompatible microneedle patches. Changes in expression of biomarkers for skin aging and pigmentation were analyzed using qRT-PCR.

RESULTS

No adverse events were reported. In the anti-aging study, after 4 weeks, skin roughness significantly improved in 17 out of 20 participants. qRT-PCR showed significantly increased expression of skin-aging related biomarkers: PINK1 in 16/20 participants, COL1A1 in 17/20 participants, and MSN in 16/20 participants. In the anti-pigmentation study, after 4 weeks, skin lightness significantly improved in 16/20 participants. qRT-PCR showed significantly increased expression of skin-pigmentation-related biomarkers: SOD1 in 15/20 participants and Vitamin D Receptor (VDR) in 15/20 participants. No significant change in TFAP2A was observed.

CONCLUSION

Skin sampling and mRNA analysis for biomarkers provides a novel, objective, quantitative method for measuring changes in the dermis and evaluating the efficacy of cosmetics. This approach complements existing evaluation methods and has potential application in assessing the effectiveness of medical devices, medications, cosmeceuticals, healthy foods, and beauty devices.

The Complex Interplay Between Antibiotic Resistance and Pharmaceutical and Personal Care Products in the Environment

Antibiotic-resistant bacteria (ARB) and antibiotic resistance genes (ARGs) are important environmental contaminants. Nonetheless, what drives the evolution, spread, and transmission of antibiotic resistance dissemination is still poorly understood. The abundance of ARB and ARGs is often elevated in human-impacted areas, especially in environments receiving fecal wastes, or in the presence of complex mixtures of chemical contaminants, such as pharmaceuticals and personal care products. Self-replication, mutation, horizontal gene transfer, and adaptation to different environmental conditions contribute to the persistence and proliferation of ARB in habitats under strong anthropogenic influence. Our review discusses the interplay between chemical contaminants and ARB and their respective genes, specifically in reference to co-occurrence, potential biostimulation, and selective pressure effects, and gives an overview of mitigation by existing man-made and natural barriers. Evidence and strategies to improve the assessment of human health risks due to environmental antibiotic resistance are also discussed. Environ Toxicol Chem 2024;43:637-652. © 2022 SETAC.

Nonsurgical Rhinoplasty with Hyaluronic Acid

The history of nonsurgical rhinoplasty with hyaluronic acid fillers dates back to the early 2000s when medical advancements in cosmetic dermatology began exploring less-invasive alternatives to traditional surgical procedures. Hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the body known for its hydrating and volumizing properties, was being used successfully in other facial augmentation treatments. Around the mid-2000s, the use of hyaluronic acid fillers for nonsurgical rhinoplasty gained momentum. By injecting hyaluronic acid fillers into precise areas of the nose, cosmetic practitioners could effectively smooth out irregularities, correct minor asymmetry, augment the nasal bridge and even enhances nasal tip projection and definition.

Facial cosmetic injection: A bibliometric analysis of research status and hotspots

BACKGROUND

The increasing popularity of cosmetic injections using various fillers and neuromodulators for facial rejuvenation has brought both new opportunities and challenges to this field.

AIM

Our study was designed to employ bibliometric and visual analysis for a qualitative and quantitative evaluation of facial cosmetic injections, as well as to identify research trends and hotspots in this field.

METHODS

All publications covering facial cosmetic injection during 2002-2023 were retrieved and extracted from the Web of Science database. The VOSviewer 1.6.18 software and the online tool (http://bibliometric.com/) were applied to analyze the publication trend.

RESULTS

A total of 3797 articles related to facial cosmetic injection were identified during the period 2002-2023. The United States had the largest volume of publications (1520, 40.0%), followed by China (333, 8.8%) and Germany (282, 7.3%). Among the institutions and journals, the University of California system and Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery accounted for the most papers related to facial cosmetic injection, respectively. Facial anatomy and injection techniques, prevention and management of complications, regenerative medicine, efficacy and safety of various soft-tissue fillers, as well as botulinum toxin injections for facial rejuvenation were identified as hotspots for facial cosmetic injections.

CONCLUSIONS

Facial cosmetic injections are showing an increasing trend in terms of both the number of published papers and operations performed. Despite the notable advancements in this field, numerous challenges persist, including safety concerns and the level of research evidence. With the emergence of novel technologies and materials, scholars from diverse countries and institutions should engage in more extensive collaboration, thereby directly expediting the progress of this field.

A bibliometric analysis of trends in the application of platelet-rich plasma in cosmetics research between 2001 and 2022

BACKGROUND

Several studies have been conducted on using platelet-rich plasma (PRP) to treat cosmetic issues. Nonetheless, no bibliometric analyses of publications in this field exist. Bibliometrics is an effective tool for methodically assessing the current state of research on a particular topic. This study examines the literature published in this field since 2000 and depicts the resulting network.

METHODS

The Web of Science Core Collection was searched for any publications mentioning the use of PRP in cosmetic or aesthetic therapy published between 2001 and 2022. The author, region, institution, journal, cited journal, and keywords were extracted, and the bibliometric analysis was carried out using CiteSpace and R studio.

RESULTS

There were a total of 306 items retrieved. The first publication in this field appeared in 2001, and the number of articles published increased over the next 21 years. Saedi Nazanin is the author with the most publications. The most prolific nations and institutions were the United States and the Fourth Military Medical University, respectively. Similarly, most articles and citations were found in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology and Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. After performing a cluster analysis on the keywords of published publications, we discovered that most of the published literature focused on using PRP in rejuvenation, mechanism, and combination with MSCs. These topics are still at the frontier of future research.

CONCLUSION

Since the first study in this field was published in 2001, PRP used in cosmetic clinics has been studied. Although early effects have been observed, numerous challenges remain, including a lack of higher-quality clinical studies and explanations of PRP's mechanism. The bibliometric analysis conducted for the purpose of this article provides a summary of academic hotspots and research frontiers, as well as insights and pointers for future productive research.

From consistent subjective assessment of skin sensitivity severity to its accurate objective scoring

BACKGROUND

Sensitive skin (SenS) is a syndrome leading to unpleasant sensations with little visible signs. Grading its severity generally relies on questionnaires or subjective ratings.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The SenS status of 183 subjects was determined by trained assessors. Answers from a four-item questionnaire were converted into numerical scores, leading to a 0-15 SenS index that was asked twice or thrice. Parameters from hyperspectral images were used as input for a multi-layer perceptron (MLP) neural network to predict the four-item questionnaire score of subjects. The resulting model was used to evaluate the soothing effect of a cosmetic cream applied to one hemiface, comparing it to that of a placebo applied to the other hemiface.

RESULTS

The four-item questionnaire score accurately predicts SenS assessors' classification (92.7%) while providing insight into SenS severity. Most subjects providing repeatable replies are non-SenS, but accepting some variability in answers enables identifying subjects with consistent replies encompassing a majority of SenS subjects. The MLP neural network model predicts the SenS score of subjects with consistent replies from full-face hyperspectral images (R2 Validation set  = 0.969). A similar quality is obtained with hemiface images. Comparing the effect of applying a soothing cosmetic to that of a placebo revealed that subjects with the highest instrumental index (> 5) show significant SenS improvement.

CONCLUSION

A four-item questionnaire enables calculating a SenS index grading its severity. Objective evaluation using hyperspectral images with an MLP neural network accurately predicts SenS severity and its favourable evolution upon the application of a soothing cream.

Sensory signature of lignins, new generation of bio-based ingredients in cosmetics

Lignins represent a high interest in cosmetics as promising multifunctional ingredients. Despite this, uncovering the sensory profile of lignin-based emulsions has remained an unexplored frontier. This study aims to bridge this gap by employing expert sensory evaluation and instrumental characterization to assess the sensory attributes of lignin-based emulsions. A comparative analysis with commercial tinted products and discrimination among lignin derivatives were integral components of the research. Results underscored the distinctive sensory properties of lignin emulsions, exhibiting significantly higher "Integrity of shape" (7.0 ± 0.1) compared to commercial products (4.8 ± 0.1). Additionally, lignin emulsions displayed longer play-time until skin absorption (4.3 ± 0.1), contrasting with the quicker absorption of commercial products (2.7 ± 0.4) and their shorter play-time. Depending on application requirements, lignin derivatives offer formulators a versatile sensory toolbox. Discrimination of lignin emulsions on certain texture properties was achieved using various instrumental tools. Despite the complex formulation of commercial products compared to lignin emulsions, similar texture properties were observed, showcasing lignins' potential to replace multiple ingredients in tinted cosmetics. Beyond their established antioxidant, anti-UV, anti-bacterial, and emulsifying properties, this study reveals additional advantageous sensory properties of lignins, positioning them as promising plant-based sensory ingredients in sustainable cosmetic applications.

Adsorption behavior and interaction mechanism of microplastics with typical hydrophilic pharmaceuticals and personal care products

Microplastics (MPs) and pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) are two types of emerging contaminants widely present in the global aquatic ecosystem. The ecological risks associated with the coexistence of these two contaminants have garnered increasing attention from researchers. In this study, we selected 15 typical hydrophilic PPCPs, including Sulfacetamide (SA), Thiamphenicol, Florfenicol, Chloramphenicol (CHL), Ampicillin, Cephalexin, Ofloxacin, Fluorouracil, Phenytoin, Theophylline, Cimetidine, Methylparaben, Diethyltoluamide, Benzophenone-2 (BP-2), and Benzophenone-4, as adsorbates. We evaluated the adsorption potential of five traditional plastics (TPs), namely Polyamide 6 (PA6), Polystyrene (PS), Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and Polyurethane (TPU), as well as three biodegradable plastics (BDPs), including Polylactic acid (PLA), Polybutylene succinate (PBS), and Poly (ε-caprolactone) (PCL), for these adsorbates. Out of the 120 combinations of MPs and PPCPs tested, only 24 exhibited significant adsorption behavior. Notably, the adsorption performance of the three BDPs was stronger than that of the three typical TPs (PS, PET, and PVC). Based on their adsorption potential, PA6, BDPs, phenytoin, and BP-2 were identified as potential sources of high ecological risk. To further explore the adsorption mechanism, we investigated the adsorption behaviors of SA, BP-2, and CHL on PA6. The conclusions were as follows: SA, BP-2, and CHL all reached adsorption equilibrium within 24 h, with the partition coefficient (Kd) following this order: BP-2 (8.051) ≫ SA (0.052) > CHL (0.018). The primary forces of adsorption were electrostatic interactions, intermolecular hydrogen bonding, and hydrophobic interaction, respectively. Additionally, weak electrostatic effects were observed in the adsorption of CHL and BP-2. The effects of pH, ionic strength, and fulvic acid on adsorption capacity varied. These results highlight a complex adsorption mechanism between MPs and hydrophilic contaminants in the aquatic environment. This study provides a basis for further evaluating the ecological risks of MPs and PPCPs combined pollution.

Establishment and verification of a method for analyzing nasal blackheads images

BACKGROUND

As people pay more attention to their skin health and the demand of developing skin care products for facial blackheads grows, the value of objective and efficient image recognition methods for blackheads is becoming more evident. Inspired by this current situation, this study attempted to analyze the number of blackheads of different severity automatically on the nose using an object recognition method on photographs of the nasal blackheads of subjects.

METHOD

This study collected 350 subjects' facial photos in the laboratory environment, who aged 18-60, with blackhead symptoms in the nasal region. And expert assessment was used as a reference for machine learning to verify the performance of the nasal blackhead image recognition model through consistency and correlation analysis.

RESULTS

The study concluded that the algorithm accuracy reached above 0.9, the model itself was effective, and the consistency between the model and the expert assessor assessment results was good, with the number of nasal blackheads, the count of blackheads of different severity, and the intra-group correlation coefficient ICC of blackhead severity all above 0.9, indicating that the deep learning-based assessment model had high overall performance and the evaluation results were comparable to those of the expert assessor.

CONCLUSION

The recognition and analyzing model of nasal blackhead images provides a scientifically objective and accurate method for identifying the number and evaluating the severity of nasal blackheads. By using this model, the efficiency of evaluating nasal blackhead images in the cosmetics clinical trial will be improved. The assessment result of nasal blackheads will be objective and stable, and not only rely on the professional knowledge and clinical experience of assessors. The model can try to be applied in cosmetics efficacy testing and continuously optimized.

Skin Deep: The Potential of Microbiome Cosmetics

The interplay between the skin microbiome and its host is a complex facet of dermatological health and has become a critical focus in the development of microbiome cosmetics. The skin microbiome, comprising various microorganisms, is essential from birth, develops over the lifespan, and performs vital roles in protecting our body against pathogens, training the immune system, and facilitating the breakdown of organic matter. Dysbiosis, an imbalance of these microorganisms, has been implicated in a number of skin conditions such as acne, atopic dermatitis, and skin cancer. Recent scientific findings have spurred cosmetic companies to develop products that preserve and enhance the skin's microbial diversity balance. These products may incorporate elements like prebiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics, which are beneficial for the skin microbiome. Beyond topical products, there's increasing interest in ingestible beauty supplements (i.e. oral probiotics), highlighting the connection between the gut and skin. This review examines the influence of the microbiome on skin health and the emerging trends of microbiome skincare products.

Nanocosmeceuticals: Trends and Recent Advancements in Self Care

The term cosmetics refers to any substances or products intended for external application on the skin with the aim of protection and better appearance of the skin surface. The skin delivery system promotes the controlled and targeted delivery of active ingredients. The development of this system has been driven by challenges encountered with conventional cosmeceuticals, including low skin retention of active components, limited percutaneous penetration, poor water dispersion of insoluble active ingredients, and instability of effective components. The aim is to create cosmeceuticals that can effectively overcome these issues. This review focuses on various nanocarriers used in cosmeceuticals currently and their applications in skin care, hair care, oral care, and more. The importance of nanotechnology in the sphere of research and development is growing. It provides solutions to various problems faced by conventional technologies, methods, and product formulations thus taking hold of the cosmetic industry as well. Nowadays, consumers are investing in cosmetics only for better appearance thus problems like wrinkles, ageing, hair loss, and dandruff requires to be answered proficiently. Nanocarriers not only enhance the efficacy of cosmeceutical products, providing better and longer-lasting effects, but they also contribute to the improved aesthetic appearance of the products. This dual benefit not only enhances the final quality and efficacy of the product but also increases consumer satisfaction. Additionally, nanocarriers offer protection against UV rays, further adding to the overall benefits of the cosmeceutical product. Figure 1 represents various advantages of nanocarriers used in cosmeceuticals. Nanotechnology is also gaining importance due to their high penetration of actives in the deeper layers of skin. It can be said that nanotechnology is taking over all the drawbacks of the traditional products. Thus, nanocarriers discussed in this review are used in nanotechnology to deliver the active ingredient of the cosmeceutical product to the desired site.

Personal Care Products, Socioeconomic Status, and Endocrine-Disrupting Chemical Mixtures in Black Women

Personal care products (PCPs) are sources of exposure to endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) among women, and socioeconomic status (SES) may influence these exposures. Black women have inequitable exposure to EDCs from PCP use, but no study has investigated how exposure to EDCs through PCPs may vary by SES, independent of race. Using data from the Study of Environment, Lifestyle, and Fibroids, a cohort of reproductive-aged Black women (n = 751), we quantified associations between PCPs and urinary biomarker concentrations of EDC mixtures (i.e., phthalates, phenols, parabens) within SES groups, defined using k-modes clustering based on education, income, marital status, and employment. Information about PCP use and SES was collected through questionnaires and interviews. We used principal component analysis to characterize the EDC mixture profiles. Stratified linear regression models were fit to assess associations between PCP use and EDC mixture profiles, quantified as mean differences in PC scores, by SES group. Associations between PCP use and EDC mixture profiles varied by SES group; e.g., vaginal powder use was associated with a mixture of phenols among lower SES women, whereas this association was null for higher SES women. Findings suggest that SES influences PCP EDC exposure in Black women, which has implications for public health interventions.

Wastewater contaminants in a fractured bedrock aquifer and their potential use as enteric virus indicators

Domestic wastewater is a source of persistent organic pollutants and pathogens to the aquatic environment, including groundwater aquifers. Wastewater contaminants include a variety of personal care products, pharmaceuticals, endocrine disrupters, bacteria, and viruses. Groundwater from 22 wells completed in a semi-confined to confined, fractured Silurian dolostone aquifer in southern Wellington County, Ontario, Canada, was analyzed for 14 organic wastewater contaminants (4 artificial sweeteners, 10 pharmaceuticals) as well as E. coli, total coliforms, and 6 human enteric viruses. Enteric viruses were detected in 8.6% of 116 samples, and at least one organic wastewater contaminant was detected in 82% of the wells (in order of decreasing detection frequency: acesulfame, ibuprofen, sulfamethoxazole, triclosan, carbamazepine, and saccharin). Virus indicator metrics [positive and negative predictive values (PPV, NPV), sensitivity, specificity] were calculated at the sample and well level for the organic wastewater compounds, E. coli, and total coliforms. Fecal bacteria were not good predictors of virus presence (PPV = 0%-8%). Of the potential chemical indicators, triclosan performed the best at the sample level (PPV = 50%, NPV = 100%), and ibuprofen performed the best at the well level (PPV = 60%, NPV = 67%); however, no samples had triclosan or ibuprofen concentrations above their practical quantification limits. Therefore, none of the compounds performed sufficiently well to be considered reliable for assessing the potential threat of enteric viruses in wastewater-impacted groundwater in this bedrock aquifer. Future studies need to evaluate the indicator potential of persistent organic wastewater contaminants in different types of aquifers, especially in fractured rock where heterogeneity is strong.IMPORTANCEAssessing the potential risk that human enteric viruses pose in groundwater aquifers used for potable water supply is complicated by several factors, including: (i) labor-intensive methods for the isolation and quantification of viruses in groundwater, (ii) the temporal variability of these viruses in domestic wastewater, and (iii) their potentially rapid transport in the subsurface, especially in fractured rock aquifers. Therefore, aquifer risk assessment would benefit from the identification of suitable proxy indicators of enteric viruses that are easier to analyze and less variable in wastewater sources. Traditional fecal indicators (e.g., E. coli and coliforms) are generally poor indicators of enteric viruses in groundwater. While many studies have examined the use of pharmaceutical and personal care products as tracers of domestic wastewater and fecal pollution in the environment, there is a paucity of data on the potential use of these chemical tracers as enteric virus indicators, especially in groundwater.

Characterization and dermal bioaccessibility of residual- and listed PFAS ingredients in cosmetic products

As a large group of chemicals with diverse properties, per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) have found extensive application throughout consumer products, including cosmetics. Little is known about the importance of dermal uptake as a human exposure pathway for PFAS. Here we investigate a suite of listed-ingredient and residual PFAS in cosmetic products, along with their dermal bioaccessibility using in vitro incubations with artificial sweat. Concentrations of volatile listed ingredients (including cyclic perfluorinated alkanes, perfluorinated ethers, and polyfluorinated silanes) in three products ranged from 876-1323 μg g-1, while polar listed ingredients (i.e., polyfluoroalkyl phosphate esters [PAPs]) in a single product occurred at up to 2427 μg g-1 (6 : 2/6 : 2 diPAP)). Residual perfluoroalkyl carboxylic acids (PFCAs) were also measured at concentrations ranging from 0.02-29 μg g-1. When listed ingredients were included, our targeted analysis accounted for up to 103% of the total fluorine, while highlighting ambiguous and/or incorrect International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) names used in several products. Bioaccessibility experiments revealed that residual PFCAs readily partitioned to artificial sweat (bioaccessible fractions ranging from 43-76% for detectable substances) while listed ingredients (i.e., PAPs and neutral/volatile PFAS) displayed negligible partitioning. This work provides new insight into the occurrence of PFAS in cosmetic products, while furthering our understanding on their mechanisms of dermal uptake.

Personal care products in soil-plant and hydroponic systems: Uptake, translocation, and accumulation

Personal care products (PCPs) are organic compounds that are incorporated in several daily life products, such as shampoos, lotions, perfumes, cleaning products, air fresheners, etc. Due to their massive and continuous use and because they are not routinely monitored in the environment, these compounds are considered emerging contaminants. In fact, residues of PCPs are being discharged into the sewage system, reaching wastewater treatment plants (WWTPs), where most of these compounds are not completely degraded, being partially released into the environment via the final effluents and/or accumulating in the sewage sludges. Environmental sustainability is nowadays one of the main pillars of society and the application of circular economy models, promoting the waste valorisation, is increasingly encouraged. Therefore, irrigation with reclaimed wastewater or soil fertilization with sewage sludge/biosolids are interesting solutions. However, these practices raise concerns due to the potential risks associated to the presence of hazardous compounds, including PCPs. When applied to agricultural soils, PCPs present in these matrices can contaminate the soil or be taken up by crops. Crops can therefore become a route of exposure for humans and pose a risk to public health. However, the extent to which PCPs are taken up and bioaccumulated in crops is highly dependent on the physicochemical properties of the compounds, environmental variables, and the plant species. This issue has attracted the attention of scientists in recent years and the number of publications on this topic has rapidly increased, but a systematic review of these studies is lacking. Therefore, the present paper reviews the uptake, accumulation, and translocation of different classes of PCPs (biocides, parabens, synthetic musks, phthalates, UV-filters) following application of sewage sludge or reclaimed water under field and greenhouse conditions, but also in hydroponic systems. The factors influencing the uptake mechanism in plants were also discussed.

Effects associated with exposure to the emerging contaminant octyl-methoxycinnamate (a UV-B filter) in the aquatic environment: a review

Given the increasing concern surrounding ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced skin damage, there has been a rise in demand for UV filters. Currently, UV-filters are considered emerging contaminants. The extensive production and use of UV filters have led to their widespread release into the aquatic environment. Thus, there is growing concern that UV filters may bioaccumulate and exhibit persistent properties within the environment, raising several safety health concerns. Octyl-methoxycinnamate (OMC) is extensively employed as a UV-B filter in the cosmetic industry. While initially designed to mitigate the adverse photobiological effects attributed to UV radiation, the safety of OMC has been questioned with some studies reporting toxic effects on environment. The aim of this review to provide an overview of the scientific information regarding the most widely used organic UV-filter (OMC), and its effects on biodiversity and aquatic environment.

Why different types of patients seek cosmetic treatments

The extent to which demographics drive patients to pursue minimally invasive cosmetic procedures is not well-understood. The aim of this project was to better understand how patient demographics impact motivations for cosmetic procedures, irrespective of the procedure desired. Patient-level information from the Cosmetic Motivation Database was evaluated using linear regression analyses to determine whether geographic region, age, gender, race, and education independently influence patients to pursue any cosmetic treatment or consultation. Patients in the Midwest reported fewer motivations related to cosmetic appearance, mental/emotional health, physical health, social life, and school/work success than those in the South. Patients younger than 45 years reported more mental/emotional health and cost/convenience motives compared to older patients. Men noted fewer motives related to cosmetic appearance, mental/emotional health, and cost/convenience but more related to school/work success. Non-White patients reported more cost/convenience motives. Participants with up to a high school diploma cited more mental/emotional health, physical health, social life, and school/work success motivations than those with post-bachelor's education. College graduates cited more school/work success motives than those with graduate-level education. In summary, patient's gender, education, age, location, and race affect why they seek cosmetic treatments. Future research may study younger and less educated patients to improve their access to treatment.

Hyaluronan: Sources, Structure, Features and Applications

Hyaluronan (HA) is a non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan that is present in a variety of body tissues and organs. Hyaluronan has a wide range of biological activities that are frequently influenced by molar mass; however, they also depend greatly on the source, purity, and kind of impurities in hyaluronan. High-molar-mass HA has anti-inflammatory, immunosuppressive, and antiangiogenic properties, while low-molar-mass HA has opposite properties. A number of chemical modifications have been performed to enhance the stability of HA and its applications in medical practice. Hyaluronan is widely applied in medicine, such as viscosupplementation, ophthalmology, otolaryngology, wound healing, cosmetics, and drug delivery. In this review, we summarized several medical applications of polymers based on the hyaluronan backbone.

sp-ICP-MS and HR-CS-GFAAS as useful available techniques for the size characterization and speciation of ionic and nanoparticular zinc in cosmetic and pharmaceutical samples

The use of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) in cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry has been increased in recent years due to their good properties as solar radiation filters and antibacterial agent. According to the literature, the potential toxicity of these NPs could be size-dependent and the amount of solubilized metal. This work investigates new reliable and straightforward methodologies that enables the determination of ZnO NPs, discriminating them from ionic zinc in cosmetic samples. Two different techniques of analysis have been applied in this study: high-resolution continuum source graphite furnace atomic absorption spectrometry (HR-CS-GFAAS), and "single particle" inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (sp-ICP-MS). Triton X-100 has been used as a surfactant for the formation of homogeneous and stable slurries which allowed the determination of the concentration and sizes of ZnO NPs and Zn2+ in baby creams, eyeshadows, and lotions. A central composite design (CCD) was performed for the two techniques to optimize the concentration of Triton X-100 and sonication time. For validation purpose, the results of Zn2+ and ZnO NPs contents achieved by HR-CS-GFAAS were compared with the total Zn content obtained by acid digestion of the samples. A size comparison of the ZnO NPs was also carried out with the data obtained through the two methodologies and validated with transmission electron microscopy (TEM). In the case of TEM analysis, two different media were tried to study possible agglomerates and interactions between the particles and the matrix.

Hurdles in translating science from lab to market in delivery systems for Cosmetics: An industrial perspective

In recent decades, a sweeping technological wave has reshaped the global economic landscape. Fueled by the unceasing forces of digital innovation and venture capital investment, this transformative machine has left a significant mark across numerous economic sectors. More recently, the emergence of 'deep tech' start-ups, focusing on areas such as artificial intelligence, nanotechnology, and biotechnology, has infused a fresh wave of innovation into various sectors, including the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. This review explores the significance of innovation within the cosmetics sector, with a particular emphasis on delivery systems. It assesses the crucial process of bridging the gap between research and the market, particularly in the translation of nanotechnology into tangible real-world applications. With the rise of nanotechnology-based beauty ingredients, we can anticipate groundbreaking advancements that promise to surpass consumer expectations, ushering in a new era of unparalleled innovation in beauty products.

NEOS: An odour-induced affect scale for use in the cosmetic industry

This work proposes an odour-induced affect scale for use in the cosmetic industry that relies on the approach that produced the UniGEOS, a universal odour-related emotional scale from the Swiss Center for Affective Sciences. The Natura Emotion and Odor Scale (NEOS) was built on experiments conducted with a larger set of participants (491) and a set of 35 scents that combine seven commercial perfumes from Natura & Co cosmetic company with 28 odours from different olfactory classes important for the cosmetic industry. The results showed the stability of 60 Emotion-Related terms in Brazilian Portuguese split into five emotion-related dimensions: Romance, Attention, Energy, Well-being and Negative feelings. The association of the scents evoking these five dimensions has direct implications in the design of new products.

Stolen Horses and Scented Garments: Vegetal and Mineral Yellow in Arabic Technical Literature

Mediaeval Arabic technical literature shows a keen interest in yellow dyes, paints, varnishes, inks, and even perfumes. Recipes reveal that yellow was viewed as just one step away from gold, with preparations for these two colours often sharing ingredients and techniques. In the unfolding of procedures and applications to different materials, from skin to textiles, Arabic sources also offer a glimpse into daily life and shared tastes, presenting luxury objects along with their imitations. This paper traces the role played by yellow and gold in inks, cosmetic dyes, and coloured, scented fabrics, exploring the textual dimension of these recipes, their technical features, and their social role between the court and the street. It also presents translations of several important recipes for yellow and gold dyes, which illustrate their diversity of applications, while also addressing such material problems as durability and substitution.

Lip color diversity: An intricate study

BACKGROUND

Lip investigations and characterizations in the literature are less prevalent than for skin, particularly on the topic of color diversity. However, as the consumer demand increases for a nude lip makeup result, that is, shades close to the bare lip color, the identification and modification of lip color is essential for the cosmetic industry.

OBJECTIVE

The objective was to highlight lip color diversity among three ethnicities (Caucasian, African and Hispanic), through the use of a spectral color measurement device especially adapted to the lip area, and to consider lip color ethnic specificities and overlaps.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The inferior natural lip color was measured with a full-face hyperspectral imaging system, SpectraFace (Newtone Technologies, Lyon, France), on 410 healthy women aged 19 to 68 (Caucasian French, Caucasian American, African American, and Hispanic American women). A hierarchical ascending classification, was deployed to determine clusters based on the lip colorimetric parameters along two strategies to identify the best statistical analysis to preserve the lip color diversity.

RESULTS

Lip color is a continuous color space, with great intra-ethnic and inter-ethnic diversity, especially for African American women in terms of chroma and lightness. Among the two strategies of data analysis, our two-step statistical clustering analysis yielded 11 groups (i.e., 11 lip tones), revealing an accurate representation of the scope of diversity, but also of the overlaps.

CONCLUSION

The 11 lip tones/colors could potentially serve as target shades for the development of a more diverse and inclusive range of lip cosmetics, such as nude lipsticks.