Multicenter methodology comparison of the FDA and ISO standard for measurement of in vitro UVA protection of sunscreen products

In vitro standard methods are available and accepted worldwide to assess UVA protection of sunscreen products. Though, harmonisation of methods has made progress in the last decade, still two differing methods - one by FDA the other by ISO - are in use. In a multicentre study including 9 centres in Germany, 4 different commercial sunscreen products were assessed using both methods to discover their similarities and differences. UVA protection factor and Critical Wavelength were detected at various substrate type (sandblasted versus moulded PMMA plates), at different surface roughness of the plates as well as at different product application dose using two different irradiation spectra. Results: The strongest influence on UVA protection factor results from the surface roughness of the plates. Depending on the roughness (accepted range of 2 to 7 μm in the FDA method) a variability in the UVA protection factor of up to 25% was observed, while the much narrower definition of plate roughness by ISO (4.5 to 5.2 μm) had no relevant influence on the test results. Sandblasted plates in our assessment led to higher UVA protection factors and produced less scattered results compared to moulded plates. These differences were not pronounced. Application dose and spectra of the irradiation source were of negligible influence on UVA protection factor results for the investigated UV-filter combinations. The UVA protection factor which is the endpoint of the ISO method was found to be a parameter with a high potential to differentiate among different test products. The endpoint of the FDA method - the Critical Wavelength - was found to be an unambitious endpoint. Insensitivity to all described modifications of the method was observed. All investigated products performed similar and passed the Critical Wavelength criteria independent of method and parameters.

Differentiation of Different Nonmelanoma Skin Cancer Types Using OCT

BACKGROUND

Early detection of various types of nonmelanoma skin cancer has been a challenge in dermatology. Noninvasive examination procedures such as optical coherence tomography (OCT) play an increasingly important role, besides the established gold standard of histological tissue sample analysis. OCT is a noninvasive, cross-sectional, real-time technique that allows conclusions to be drawn with regard to the presence of pathologies.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this study was to investigate whether it is possible to distinguish between different types of nonmelanoma skin cancer using OCT or not.

METHODS

A study population of a total of 25 cases, comprising 5 cases, each, of 5 tumor entities (i.e., basal cell carcinoma, superficial basal cell carcinoma, actinic keratosis, squamous cell carcinoma, and Bowen disease) was examined. Relevant lesions were scanned both centrally and peripherally in the multislice mode. All OCT images were blinded, randomized, analyzed, and evaluated by 2 clinicians experienced in OCT.

RESULTS

This study demonstrated that it is possible to determine correlations between various types of tumors and recurring tumor characteristics.

CONCLUSION

This study showed that it is possible to distinguish between the different nonmelanoma skin cancers by using OCT, but further prospective studies have to be conducted to validate the sensitivity and specificity of the criteria.

Human skin in vivo has a higher skin barrier function than porcine skin ex vivo-comprehensive Raman microscopic study of the stratum corneum

Porcine skin is widely used as a human skin model in dermatology. For both, porcine stratum corneum (SC) ex vivo and human SC in vivo, the hydrogen bonding states of water, the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) concentrations and the intercellular lipids' (ICL) lateral organization are investigated depth-dependently using confocal Raman microscopy. The SC depth profiles show that porcine SC ex vivo is characterized by lower hydrogen bonding states of water (10%-30% SC depth), lower NMF concentration in the whole SC, more β-sheet form of keratin (10%-90% SC depth), more folded tertiary keratin structures (30%-70% SC depth) and higher hexagonal lateral packing order of ICL (10%-50% SC depth) compared to human SC in vivo. The results clearly show a higher value of skin barrier function of human SC in vivo than of porcine SC ex vivo. Thus, the human SC in vivo is less permeable for lipophilic and hydrophilic substances than porcine SC ex vivo. Considering the porcine SC as an ex vivo model of human SC in vivo, these findings should be taken into consideration.

Recent progress in tissue optical clearing for spectroscopic application

This paper aims to review recent progress in optical clearing of the skin and over naturally turbid biological tissues and blood using this technique in vivo and in vitro with multiphoton microscopy, confocal Raman microscopy, confocal microscopy, NIR spectroscopy, optical coherence tomography, and laser speckle contrast imaging. Basic principles of the technique, its safety, advantages and limitations are discussed. The application of optical clearing agent on a tissue allows for controlling the optical properties of tissue. Optical clearing-induced reduction of tissue scattering significantly facilitates the observation of deep-located tissue regions, at the same time improving the resolution and image contrast for a variety of optical imaging methods suitable for clinical applications, such as diagnostics and laser treatment of skin diseases, mucosal tumor imaging, laser disruption of pathological abnormalities, etc.

Temperature-Enhanced Follicular Penetration of Thermoresponsive Nanogels

Hair follicles can serve as an effective reservoir for dermal drug delivery upon the topical application of particulate substances. Here, the follicular penetration of an indodicarbocyanine-labelled thermoresponsive nanogel (189 nm) having a cloud point temperature of 34°C and linked via an acid-labile linker to the model drug indocarbocyanine was investigated. In total, 227 hair follicles of porcine ear skin were examined after topical application of the thermoresponsive nanogels at room temperature (21°C), physiological skin surface temperature (32°C) and core body temperature (37°C) for the follicular penetration depths of indodicarbocyanine and indocarbocyanine using confocal laser scanning microscopy. The results showed a significantly increased mean follicular penetration of the carrier to a depth of 298.8±85.8 μm after incubation at 37°C compared to samples incubated at 21°C and 32°C with mean follicular penetration depths of 202.7±81.7 μm and 219.4±52.9 μm, respectively (p<0.001). Possibly structural changes in the thermoresponsive nanogel induced by the increased incubation temperature led to an enhancement of follicular penetration. Therefore, thermoresponsive nanogels may be suitable for the temperature-enhanced penetration into the hair follicles under physiological conditions.

Hautkrebsprävention und Sonnenschutzcreme: ein Update

In den letzten Jahren sind die Hautkrebsraten weltweit gestiegen. Die Anwendung von Sonnenschutzmitteln ist eine weit verbreitete Strategie in der Prävention gegen Hautkrebs, Sonnenbrand und Photoalterung. Es sollten kombinierte Breitbandfiltersysteme mit hoher Wirkung gegen UV-B- und UV-A-Strahlung eingesetzt werden. Weitere Studien sind notwendig, um die Entwicklung von Sonnenschutzmitteln gegen die ebenfalls schädlichen IRA-Strahlen voranzutreiben. Obwohl die regelmäßige Anwendung von Sonnenschutzmitteln ein wesentlicher Bestandteil in der Hautkrebsprävention ist, sollten insbesondere bei Kindern kombinierte Schutzmaßnahmen angewendet werden: Sonnenkarenz bei starker Sonneneinstrahlung, textiler Sonnenschutz, Aufenthalt im Schatten und die Anwendung von Sonnenschutzmitteln.

Shape-Dependent Dissolution and Cellular Uptake of Silver Nanoparticles

The cellular uptake and dissolution of trigonal silver nanoprisms (edge length 42 ± 15 nm, thickness 8 ± 1 nm) and mostly spherical silver nanoparticles (diameter 70 ± 25 nm) in human mesenchymal stem cells (hMSC's) and human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) were investigated. Both particles are stabilized by polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), with the prisms additionally stabilized by citrate. The nanoprisms dissolved slightly in pure water but strongly in isotonic saline or at pH 4, corresponding to the lowest limit for the pH during cellular uptake. The tips of the prisms became rounded within minutes due to their high surface energy. Afterward, the dissolution process slowed down due to the presence of both PVP stabilizing Ag{100} sites and citrate blocking Ag{111} sites. On the contrary, nanospheres, solely stabilized by PVP, dissolved within 24 h. These results correlate with the finding that particles in both cell types have lost >90% of their volume within 24 h. hMSC's took up significantly more Ag from nanoprisms than from nanospheres, whereas HaCaT cells showed no preference for one particle shape. This can be rationalized by the large cellular interaction area of the plateletlike nanoprisms and the bending stiffness of the cell membranes. hMSC's have a highly flexible cell membrane, resulting in an increased uptake of plateletlike particles. HaCaT cells have a membrane with a 3 orders of magnitude higher Young's modulus than for hMSC. Hence, the energy gain due to the larger interaction area of the nanoprisms is compensated for by the higher energy needed for cell membrane deformation compared to that for spheres, leading to no shape preference.

Free radicals induced by sunlight in different spectral regions - in vivo versus ex vivo study

Sunlight represents an exogenous factor stimulating formation of free radicals which can induce cell damage. To assess the effect of the different spectral solar regions on the development of free radicals in skin, in vivo electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) investigations with human volunteers and ex vivo studies on excised human and porcine skin were carried out. For all skin probes, the ultraviolet (UV) spectral region stimulates the most intensive radical formation, followed by the visible (VIS) and the near infrared (NIR) regions. A comparison between the different skin models shows that for UV light, the fastest and highest production of free radicals could be detected in vivo, followed by excised porcine and human skin. The same distribution pattern was found for the VIS/NIR spectral regions, whereby the differences in radical formation between in vivo and ex vivo were less pronounced. An analysis of lipid composition in vivo before and after exposure to UV light clearly showed modifications in several skin lipid components; a decrease of ceramide subclass [AP2] and an increase of ceramide subclass [NP2], sodium cholesterol sulphate and squalene (SQ) were detectable. In contrast, VIS/NIR irradiation led to an increase of ceramides [AP2] and SCS, and a decrease of SQ. These results, which are largely comparable for the different skin models investigated in vivo and ex vivo, indicate that radiation exposure in different spectral regions strongly influences radical production in skin and also results in changes in skin lipid composition, which is essential for barrier function.

Evaluation of detection distance-dependent reflectance spectroscopy for the determination of the sun protection factor using pig ear skin

Determination of sun protection factors (SPFs) is currently an invasive method, which is based on erythema formation (phototest). Here we describe an optical setup and measurement methodology for the determination of SPFs based on diffuse reflectance spectroscopy, which measures UV-reflectance spectra at 4 distances from the point of illumination. Due to a high spatial variation of the reflectance data, most likely due to inhomogeneities of the sunscreen distribution, data of 50 measurement positions are averaged. A dependence of the measured SPF on detection distance is significant for 3 sunscreens, while being inconclusive for 2 sunscreens due to high inter-sample variations. Using pig ear skin samples (n=6), the obtained SPF of 5 different commercial sunscreens corresponds to the SPF values of certified test institutes in 3 cases and is lower for 2 sunscreens of the same manufacturer, suggesting a formulation specific reason for the discrepancy. The results demonstrate that the measurement can be performed with a UV dose below the minimal erythema dose. We conclude the method may be considered as a potential noninvasive in vivo alternative to the invasive in vivo phototest, but further tests on different sunscreen formulations are still necessary.

Keratin-water-NMF interaction as a three layer model in the human stratum corneum using in vivo confocal Raman microscopy

The secondary and tertiary structure of keratin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are of great importance regarding the water regulating functions in the stratum corneum (SC). In this in vivo study, the depth-dependent keratin conformation and its relationship to the hydrogen bonding states of water and its content in the SC, are investigated using confocal Raman microscopy. Based on the obtained depth-profiles for the β-sheet/α-helix ratio, the stability of disulphide bonds, the amount of cysteine forming disulphide bonds, the buried/exposed tyrosine and the folding/unfolding states of keratin, a "three layer model" of the SC, regarding the keratin-water-NMF interaction is proposed. At the uppermost layers (30-0% SC depth), the keratin filaments are highly folded, entailing limited water binding sites, and NMF is mostly responsible for binding water. At the intermediate layers (70-30% SC depth), the keratin filaments are unfolded, have the most water binding sites and are prone to swelling. At the bottom layers (100-80% SC depth), the water binding sites are already occupied with water and cannot swell substantially. The hydrogen bonding states of water molecules can only be explained by considering both, the molecular structure of keratin and the contribution of NMF as a holistic system.

Depth-dependent autofluorescence photobleaching using 325, 473, 633, and 785 nm of porcine ear skin ex vivo

Autofluorescence photobleaching describes the decrease of fluorescence intensity of endogenous fluorophores in biological tissue upon light irradiation. The origin of autofluorescence photobleaching is not fully understood. In the skin, the spatial distribution of various endogenous fluorophores varies within the skin layers. Most endogenous fluorophores are excited in the ultraviolet and short visible wavelength range, and only a few, such as porphyrins (red) and melanin (near-infrared), are excited at longer wavelengths. The excitation wavelength- and depth-dependent irradiation of skin will therefore excite different fluorophores, which will likely influence the photobleaching characteristics. The autofluorescence photobleaching of porcine ear skin has been measured ex vivo using 325, 473, 633, and 785 nm excitation at different skin depths from the surface to the dermis at 150 ? ? m . Confocal Raman microscopes were used to achieve sufficient spatial resolution of the measurements. The autofluorescence area under the curve was measured for 21 consecutive acquisitions of 15 s. In all cases, the photobleaching follows a two-exponential decay function approximated by nonlinear regression. The results show that photobleaching can be applied to improve the signal-to-noise ratio in Raman spectroscopy for all of the applied excitation wavelengths and skin depths.

Impact of Body Site, Age, and Gender on the Collagen/Elastin Index by Noninvasive in vivo Vertical Two-Photon Microscopy

BACKGROUND/AIMS

Extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging is subject to constant remodeling and degradation processes, primarily in components of the extracellular matrix. While collagen fibers thin out during the aging process, the amorphous elastin fibers accumulate. These are essential formative components of the dermis. So far, these processes have been detected in vertical histological sections of invasive biopsies and recently in noninvasive horizontal scans.

METHODS

In this pilot study, a modified noninvasive 2-photon microscope was applied to measure the collagen/elastin index of skin in vivo. The obtained images permit an immediate vertical survey and allow a conclusion on the dermal composition at once. The collagen/elastin index was quantified by the second harmonic to autofluorescence aging index of dermis (SAAID) depending on volunteers' age (18-66 years), gender, and body area.

RESULTS

The highest SAAID was measured at the volar forearm as compared to the abdominal SAAID, which was significantly lower (p < 0.05). The gluteal region showed the significantly lowest SAAID (p < 0.05). The SAAID in female skin was higher compared to male skin and decreased with increasing age.

CONCLUSION

These effects are to be considered in subsequent studies to be able to specifically detect and evaluate influences.

A Randomized Controlled Trial of Green Tea Beverages on the in vivo Radical Scavenging Activity in Human Skin

BACKGROUND

Oxidative stress plays an important role in the pathogenesis of various skin diseases. Thus, the antioxidant network of the skin relies on the uptake of exogenous antioxidants to ensure cell protection against radical formation. Green tea is one of the main sources of polyphenolic antioxidant compounds, but only few data are available on its cutaneous antioxidant effects.

METHODS

The radical scavenging properties of Benifuuki and Yabukita green tea were investigated in the human skin. Thirty-two participants who met the inclusion criteria were randomized to consume 3 cups per day of either Benifuuki tea, Yabukita tea, or water (control group) for 2 weeks. Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy was applied to measure the radical scavenging capacity of the skin in vivo before and after the intervention.

RESULTS

Both Yabukita and Benifuuki tea led to an increase in the radical scavenging activity of the skin by 28 and 29%, respectively, and the difference was significant when compared to the control group. Benifuuki tea, previously reported to be superior in bioavailability due to a highly absorbable methylated catechin, did not prove to be more effective than the common Yabukita tea.

CONCLUSION

The results show that green tea enhances the radical scavenging capacity of the skin and support the hypothesis that green tea may offer protection against cutaneous oxidative stress.

Influences of Orally Taken Carotenoid-Rich Curly Kale Extract on Collagen I/Elastin Index of the Skin

Two differently designed, spatially resolved reflectance spectroscopy-based scanners and two-photon tomography were used for noninvasive in vivo determination of cutaneous carotenoids, and collagen I/elastin aging index of dermis, respectively, in the skin of 29 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 56 years of age. The volunteers received a supplement in the form of a carotenoid-rich natural curly kale extract containing 1650 µg of carotenoids in total (three capsules of 550 µg), once a day. Measurements were taken before, after 5 months and after 10 months of daily supplementation. The results showed significantly increased values for the cutaneous carotenoids and the collagen I/elastin aging index of dermis 5 and 10 months after the beginning of the study. The obtained results show that a natural carotenoid-rich extract could prevent the aging-related collagen I degradation in the dermis and improve the extracellular matrix.

In vivo characterization of structural changes after topical application of glucocorticoids in healthy human skin

Topical glucocorticoids (GC) are known to induce changes in human skin with the potential to develop skin atrophy. Here, atrophogenic effects and subsequent structural changes in the skin after topical application of GC were investigated in vivo. Sixteen healthy volunteers were topically treated daily on the forearms with clobetasol propionate, betamethasone dipropionate, and the petrolatum vehicle for 4 weeks. All treated skin areas and a nontreated control area were examined by ultrasound, optical coherence tomography, confocal laser scanning microscopy, multiphoton tomography (MPT), and resonance Raman spectroscopy at baseline 1 day after last application and 1 week after last application. Investigated parameters included stratum corneum thickness, epidermal, and full skin thickness, keratinocyte size and density, keratinocyte nucleus-to-cytoplasm ratio, skin surface classification, relative collagen and elastin signal intensity, second-harmonic generation-to-autofluorescence aging index of dermis (SAAID), and the antioxidant status of the skin. A reduction in epidermal and dermal skin thickness was observed in GC treated as well as in vehicle-treated and untreated skin areas on the volar forearm. MPT analysis showed an increased epidermal cell density and reduced cell size and nucleus-to-cytoplasm ratio and a significant increase of SAAID after GC treatment indicating a restructuring or compression of collagen fibers clinically being observed as atrophic changes.

Prevention of palmoplantar erythrodysesthesia in patients treated with pegylated liposomal doxorubicin (Caelyx®)

PURPOSE

Palmoplantar erythrodysesthesia (PPE) is one of the most frequent side effects during systemic treatment with pegylated liposomal doxorubicin (PLD, Caelyx®). PPE lesions show a range of symptoms, from numbness to painful erosions, and can have a major impact on the quality of life in affected patients. Previously, a possible pathomechanism of PPE was found in doxorubicin-treated patients based on radical formation in the skin. Here, a preventive strategy using a topically applied ointment with a high radical protection factor was investigated.

METHODS

In this randomized placebo-controlled double-blind study the antioxidant-containing ointment was compared with a placebo ointment regarding PPE grade III occurrence, overall PPE grade I-III occurrence and PPE severity in PLD patients. The verum or placebo cream was topically applied for a period of 16 weeks, starting 3 days prior to the first cycle of chemotherapy. Clinical evaluations were carried out by a dermatologist prior to the first cycle of chemotherapy and every 4 weeks for the duration of 16 weeks.

RESULTS

Thirty-two patients were enrolled in total, of which 17 (66%) completed the study. No PPE grade III was found in the verum group, while five out of seven patients (71%) had to be unblinded in the placebo arm due to PPE grade III (p = 0.003). General PPE occurrence of all grades was 60% under verum and 86% under placebo treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

The preventive application of an antioxidant-containing ointment was shown to be significantly more effective in the prevention of PPE grade III compared to placebo treatment.

In vivo confocal Raman microscopic determination of depth profiles of the stratum corneum lipid organization influenced by application of various oils

BACKGROUND

The intercellular lipids (ICL) of stratum corneum (SC) play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier function. The lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in SC is not homogenous, but rather depth-dependent.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to analyze the influence of the topically applied mineral-derived (paraffin and petrolatum) and plant-derived (almond oil and jojoba oil) oils on the depth-dependent ICL profile ordering of the SC in vivo.

METHOD

Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM), a unique tool to analyze the depth profile of the ICL structure non-invasively, is employed to investigate the interaction between oils and human SC in vivo.

RESULTS

The results show that the response of SC to oils' permeation varies in the depths. All oils remain in the upper layers of the SC (0-20% of SC thickness) and show predominated differences of ICL ordering from intact skin. In these depths, skin treated with plant-derived oils shows more disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL than intact skin (p<0.05). In the intermediate layers of SC (30-50% of SC thickness), the oils do not influence the lateral packing order of SC ICL (p>0.1), except plant-derived oils at the depth 30% of SC thickness. In the deeper layers of the SC (60-100% of SC thickness), no difference between ICL lateral packing order of the oil-treated and intact skin can be observed, except that at the depths of 70-90% of the SC thickness, where slight changes with more disorder states are measured for plant-derived oil treated skin (p<0.1), which could be explained by the penetration of free fatty acid fractions in the deep-located SC areas.

CONCLUSION

Both oil types remain in the superficial layers of the SC (0-20% of the SC thickness). Skin treated with mineral- and plant-derived oils shows significantly higher disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in these layers of the SC compared to intact skin. Plant-derived oils significantly changed the ICL ordering in the depths of 30% and 70-90% of the SC thickness, which is likely due to the penetration of free fatty acids in the deeper layers of the SC.

Radical-Scavenging Activity of a Sunscreen Enriched by Antioxidants Providing Protection in the Whole Solar Spectral Range

BACKGROUND/AIM

The main reason for extrinsic skin aging is the negative action of free radicals. The formation of free radicals in the skin has been associated with ultraviolet (UV) exposure and also to visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) irradiations. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen in the whole solar range.

METHODS

The radical-scavenging activity of a sunscreen in the UV, VIS, and NIR ranges was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. Ex vivo penetration profiles were determined using confocal Raman microscopy on porcine ear skin at different time points after application.

RESULTS

Compared to the untreated skin, the sunscreen decreased the skin radical formation in the UV and VIS regions. Additional protection in the VIS and NIR ranges was observed for the sunscreen containing antioxidants (AO). The penetration depth of the cream was less than 11.2 ± 3.0 µm for all time points.

CONCLUSION

A sunscreen containing AO improved the photoprotection in the VIS and NIR ranges. The sunscreen was retained in the stratum corneum. Therefore, these results show the possibility of the development of effective and safer sunscreen products.

[New aspects in the development of sunscreening agents]

Sunlight is indispensable for life. Skin aging is determined not only by genetic factors but also by the influence of solar radiation which in all its spectral regions induces free radicals in the human skin. Below a critical concentration, free radicals are important for signaling processes in the human body. Exceeding a critical threshold value (FRTV), however, free radicals lead to cellular damage which, in turn, can induce skin aging, immunosuppression and even skin cancer. Recently it could be shown that 50% of the free radicals induced in the human skin by solar radiation were caused by the visible and infrared spectral regions. Taking into consideration that people who use sunscreen stay considerably longer in the sun than unprotected people, their skin could be exposed to free radical formation in the visible and infrared spectral regions, which far exceeds the critical threshold. Filter substances like those used in sunscreens for skin protection in the ultraviolet region are not available for the visible and infrared spectral regions. Using the natural protection mechanisms of the human skin as examples, however, the protective effect of sunscreens can be considerably enhanced by the addition of scattering and reflective pigments, such as titanium dioxide, as well as of antioxidants which neutralize the free radicals. Currently the focus of sunscreen development is shifting from mere UV protection to protection covering the entire solar spectrum.

Fluorescence detection of protein content in house dust: the possible role of keratin

We propose a fluorescence method for protein content assessment in fine house dust, which can be used as an indicator of the hygienic state of occupied rooms. The results of the measurements performed with 30 house dust samples, including ultrafiltration experiments, strongly suggest that the fluorescence emission of house dust extracts excited at 350 nm is mainly due to protein fragments, which are presumably keratin hydrolysates. This suggestion is supported by several facts: (i) Spectral band shapes for all the samples under investigation are close and correspond to that of keratin; (ii) fluorescence intensity correlates with the total protein content as provided by Lowry assay; (iii) treatment of the samples with proteinase K, which induces keratin hydrolysis, results in fluorescence enhancement without changing fluorescence band shape; and (iv) Raman spectra of keratin and fine house dust samples exhibit a very similar structure. Based on the obtained results and literature data, we propose a hypothesis that keratin is a major substrate for fluorescence species in fine house dust, which are responsible for emission at 350-nm excitation.

A depth-dependent profile of the lipid conformation and lateral packing order of the stratum corneum in vivo measured using Raman microscopy

The intercellular lipid structure of the stratum corneum (SC) plays a key role in skin barrier function. A depth profile of the intercellular lipid conformation and the lipid lateral packing order were measured in vivo in the human SC using confocal Raman microscopy. The depth profiles of the 2880 cm(-1)/2850 cm(-1) peak ratio intensity, which represent the C-H stretching and lateral packing order of lipids, and the 1080 cm(-1)/(1130 cm(-1) + 1060 cm(-1)) peak ratio, which represents the C-C skeleton vibration and trans-gauche conformation order of lipids, were investigated. The influence of keratin on the lipid peaks at 2850 cm(-1) and 2880 cm(-1) was excluded by the developed mathematical algorithm. The results show that the trans-conformation and lateral packing order of the intercellular lipids reach their maximum value in the SC at 20-40% of its depth and then decrease towards the stratum granulosum. These results show that at a depth of 20-40% (normally corresponding to a depth of 4-8 μm) the SC exhibits the most ordered lipids and therefore the highest skin barrier function. The lateral packing of lipids is more disordered on the surface and in the deeper parts of the SC, which may be associated with a reduced skin barrier function.

Dendritic polyglycerol and N-isopropylacrylamide based thermoresponsive nanogels as smart carriers for controlled delivery of drugs through the hair follicle

Nanoparticles with a size of several hundred nanometers can effectively penetrate into the hair follicles and may serve as depots for controlled drug delivery. However, they can neither overcome the hair follicle barrier to reach the viable cells nor release the loaded drug adequately. On the other hand, small drug molecules cannot penetrate deep into the hair follicles. Thus, the most efficient way for drug delivery through the follicular route is to employ nanoparticles that can release the drug close to the target structure upon exposure to some external or internal stimuli. Accordingly, 100-700 nm sized thermoresponsive nanogels with a phase transition temperature of 32-37 °C were synthesized by the precipitation polymerization technique using N-isopropylacrylamide as a monomer, acrylated dendritic polyglycerol as a crosslinker, VA-044 as an initiator, and sodium dodecyl sulphate as a stabilizer. The follicular penetration of the indodicarbocyanine (IDCC) labeled nanogels into the hair follicles and the release of coumarin 6, which was loaded as a model drug, in the hair follicles were assessed ex vivo using porcine ear skin. Confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) enabled independent tracking of the nanogels and the loaded dye, although it is not as precise and accurate as standard analytical methods. The results showed that, unlike smaller nanogels (<100 nm), medium and larger sized nanogels (300-500 nm) penetrated effectively into the hair follicles with penetration depths proportional to the nanogel size. The release of the loaded dye in the hair follicles increased significantly when the investigation on penetration was carried out above the cloud point temperature of the nanogels. The follicular penetration of the nanogels from the colloidal dispersion and a 2.5% hydroxyethyl cellulose gel was not significantly different.

Investigation of the cutaneous penetration behavior of dexamethasone loaded to nano-sized lipid particles by EPR spectroscopy, and confocal Raman and laser scanning microscopy

An improvement of the penetration efficiency combined with the controlled release of actives in the skin can facilitate the medical treatment of skin diseases immensely. Dexamethasone (Dx), a synthetic glucocorticoid, is frequently used for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases. To investigate the penetration of nano-sized lipid particles (NLP) loaded with Dx in comparison to a commercially available base cream, different techniques were applied. Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy was used to monitor the penetration of Dx, which was covalently labeled with the spin probe 3-(Carboxy)-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-1-pyrrolidinyloxy (PCA). The penetration into hair follicles was studied using confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) with curcumin-loaded NLP. The penetration of the vehicle was followed by confocal Raman microscopy (CRM). Penetration studies using excised porcine skin revealed a more than twofold higher penetration efficiency for DxPCA into the stratum corneum (SC) after 24h incubation compared to 4h incubation when loaded to the NLP, whereas when applied in the base cream, almost no further penetration was observed beyond 4h. The distribution of DxPCA within the SC was investigated by consecutive tape stripping. The release of DxPCA from the base cream after 24h in deeper SC layers and the viable epidermis was shown by EPR. For NLP, no release from the carrier was observed, although DxPCA was detectable in the skin after the complete SC was removed. This phenomenon can be explained by the penetration of the NLP into the hair follicles. However, penetration profiles measured by CRM indicate that NLP did not penetrate as deeply into the SC as the base cream formulation. In conclusion, NLP can improve the accumulation of Dx in the skin and provide a reservoir within the SC and in the follicular infundibula.

Depth profiles of hydrogen bound water molecule types and their relation to lipid and protein interaction in the human stratum corneum in vivo

Confocal Raman microscopy has been used to measure depth-dependent profiles of human SC in vivo in the high wavenumber (HWN) region. In order to keep the linearity of HWN region boundaries and to not remove an informative signal from Raman spectra, a new baseline subtraction procedure has been introduced. After baseline subtraction, the HWN spectrum was deconvoluted using 10 Gaussian functions with individual chemical meanings. The results show that the hydrogen bound water molecule types contributed differently to the water diffusion process in the SC. The most concentrated double donor-double acceptor (DDAA) and single donor-single acceptor (DA) water molecule types in the SC represent more than 90% of the SC's water and mostly contribute to the water flux in the skin. Single donor-double acceptor (DAA) and weakly-bound water molecule types represent less than 10% of the SC's water content. The most tightly hydrogen bound water molecule type, DAA, reaches its maximum concentration near the skin surface and does not take part in the water diffusion process via the SC. The results show that the hydrogen bonding state of water (DA/DDAA water molecule type ratio) reaches its maximum at the depth of approx. 30% of the SC thickness, which correlates well with the maximum lateral packing order of intercellular lipids (ICL) and the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and does not coincide with the folding/unfolding state of keratin. The NMF's contribution to the bonding of water in the SC is supposed to dominate over that of ICL.

Comparison of different cutaneous carotenoid sensors and influence of age, skin type, and kinetic changes subsequent to intake of a vegetable extract

In the last decade, cutaneous carotenoid measurements have become increasingly popular, as carotenoids were found to be a biomarker of nutrition rich in fruits and vegetables, permitting monitoring of the influence of various stress factors. For such measurements, in addition to the specific and selective resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS), newly developed low expensive small and mobile sensors that are based on spatially resolved reflectance spectroscopy (SRRS) are used for cutaneous carotenoid measurements. Human volunteers of different age exhibiting skin types I to III were investigated using RRS and two SRRS-based sensors to determine the influence of these parameters on the measuring results. In two studies on volunteers of either the same age or skin type, however, the respective other parameter being varied and no significant influences of age or skin type could be detected. Furthermore, the kinetic changes resulting from the intake and discontinued intake of a vegetable extract rich in carotenoids showed a good correlation among the three sensors and with the detected blood carotenoids. This illustrates that the SRRS-based sensors and RRS device provide reliable cutaneous carotenoid values independent of age and skin types I to III of the volunteers.

Influence of Chemotherapy on the Antioxidant Status of Human Skin

BACKGROUND

Palmoplantar erythrodysesthesia is a frequent dermal side-effect during chemotherapy. Previous investigations showed radical formation subsequent to doxorubicin infusion and preventative and therapeutic effects of an antioxidant-containing ointment.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Using a non-invasive vivomeasuring system (Biozoom®; Biozoom Services GmbH, Kassel, Germany) changes in the antioxidant status (as measured by relative carotenoid concentration) of the skin prior to and after intravenous administration of paclitaxel, docetaxel and 5-fluorouracil were investigated in 42 patients with cancer.

RESULTS

A significant decrease of antioxidant concentration subsequent to intravenous administration was found for all investigated chemotherapeutic agents. The mean concentration of carotenoids decreased from 3.59±1.26 arbitrary units (a.u.) to 3.41±1.28 a.u. (p<0.001) after paclitaxel administration, from 6.33±2.43 to 5.63±2.29 a.u. after docetaxel (p=0.027) and from 4.26±1.81 to 3.98±1.53 a.u. (p=0.042) after 5-fluorouracil infusion.

CONCLUSION

Oxidative stress might play a significant role in the pathomechanism of palmoplantar erythrodysesthesia associated with paclitaxel, docetaxel and 5-fluorouracil. Therefore, an antioxidant-containing ointment might serve as preventative and therapeutic option.

Penetration of topically applied nanocarriers into the hair follicles of dog and rat dorsal skin and porcine ear skin

BACKGROUND

In humans, topically applied nanocarriers penetrate effectively into the hair follicles where they can be exploited for the localized and targeted treatment of skin disorders.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of the present study was to examine the applicability of particle-based systems for follicular drug delivery in companion animals and livestock, which have a large follicular reservoir.

ANIMALS

Skin samples from 10 beagle dogs, 14 Wistar rats and four ears from freshly slaughtered cross-bred pigs were used.

METHODS

Fluoresceinamine labelled poly (L-lactide-co-glycolide) nanocarriers (256 or 430 nm) were applied on the different skin samples. After penetration, skin biopsies were removed and cryohistological cross sections prepared and investigated with regard to the follicular penetration depths (in μm ± standard deviation) of the nanocarriers using confocal laser scanning microscopy.

RESULTS

In canine, rat and porcine hair follicles, the smaller nanoparticles were detected at mean follicular penetration depths of 630.16 ± 135.75 μm, 253.55 ± 47.36 μm and 653.40 ± 94.71 μm, respectively. The larger particles were observed at average follicular depths of 604.79 ± 132.42 μm; 262.87 ± 55.25 μm and 786.81 ± 121.73 μm, respectively, in canine, rat and porcine hair follicles. Statistically significant differences (P < 0.05) in the mean follicular penetration depths of the differently sized nanocarriers could be determined for the canine and porcine skin samples.

CONCLUSION

The mean follicular penetration depths of the differently sized nanocarriers were mostly significantly different between the different species, which might be due to different species-specific follicular dimensions. This issue needs to be addressed specifically in further studies.

Comparison of different methods to study effects of silver nanoparticles on the pro- and antioxidant status of human keratinocytes and fibroblasts

In times of antibiotic-resistant bacteria new strategies to avoid the septic-inducing threat of dangerous microorganisms are needed. Silver ions (Ag⁺) in the forms of silver nitrate or silver sulfadiazine have been used as antimicrobial agents for years. A step further was the development of micro and silver particles (AgNP). In contrast to other Ag⁺ ion sources, AgNP allow a sustained release of Ag⁺ ions, due to their high surface to volume ratio. However, AgNP are also toxic to eukaryotic cells and the mechanisms of cytotoxicity have not yet been fully elucidated. In this study, the impact of different AgNP preparations on a human keratinocyte cell line was investigated. The intracellular radical formation was confirmed by the 2',7'-dichlorodihydrofluorescein di-acetate (H₂DCF-DA) assay on two cell types (HaCaT cells and normal human dermal fibroblasts) as well as by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy, which showed comparable results. EPR spectroscopy was performed for the first time for 24h in experiments using keratinocytes. Drastic changes in the mitochondrial activity were induced in cells incubated with AgNP containing high concentrations of Ag⁺ ions. It was also possible to show that the quantitative uptake of AgNP was dependent on the AgNP concentration. In addition, the effects of AgNP on the GSH/GSSG system were elucidated. The results showed a batch- and concentration-dependent decrease of the total glutathione concentration which correlated well with the decrease of cell viability. Furthermore, the results suggest a direct reaction of GSH molecules with Ag⁺ ions. In conclusion, this study proves the efficacy of the H₂DCF-DA assay and the EPR spectroscopy. The investigations show that AgNP formulations containing high amounts of released Ag⁺ ions induce radicals in human keratinocytes and deplete them of their natural anti-oxidative molecules. On the contrary, nanoparticles prepared and stored under argon did not induce significant adverse effects, suggesting that slowing down the release of Ag⁺ may help to reduce AgNP-related side effects without affecting the antibacterial impact.

Detection of capecitabine (Xeloda®) on the skin surface after oral administration

Palmoplantar erythrodysesthesia (PPE), or hand-foot syndrome, is a cutaneous toxicity under various chemotherapeutics contributing to the most frequent side effects in patients treated with capecitabine (Xeloda®). The pathomechanism of PPE has been unclear. Here, the topical detection of capecitabine in the skin after oral application was shown in 10 patients receiving 2500  mg/m 2 /day 2500  mg/m2/day capecitabine. Sweat samples were taken prior to and one week after oral administration of capecitabine. Using high-resolution continuum source absorption spectrometry, the changes in concentrations of fluorine, which is an ingredient of capecitabine, were quantified and statistically analyzed. Here, we show an increase in fluorine concentrations from 40±10  ppb 40±10  ppb (2±0.5  pM 2±0.5  pM ) before capecitabine administration to 27.7±11.8  ppm 27.7±11.8  ppm (14.6±6.5  nM 14.6±6.5  nM ) after application, p<0.001 p<0.001 . The results show the secretion of capecitabine on the skin surface after oral administration, indicating a local toxic effect as a possible pathomechanism of PPE.

Prevention of Cutaneous Penetration and CD1c+ Uptake of Pollen Allergens by a Barrier-Enhancing Formulation

Recent studies have shown that pollen proteins can penetrate the impaired skin barrier of atopic patients and exacerbate their disease. In the presented study the effect of a topically applied barrier-enhancing formulation was investigated for its preventive effect on the uptake of pollen allergens into CD1c+ epidermal cells. The pollen proteins were fluorescence labelled and applied on barrier-disrupted excised human skin. CD1c+ cells were selected after magnetic cell sorting and analysed using laser scanning microscopy. In untreated disrupted skin, 81% of the CD1c+ cells contained the fluorescence-labelled pollen allergens. In formulation-pretreated skin only 12% of the CD1c+ cells showed an uptake of pollen allergens. These results encourage the treatment of atopic patients with barrier-enhancing formulations to reduce the impact of pollen on air-exposed skin areas and hence the exacerbation of cutaneous symptoms.

Light - Instead of UV Protection: New Requirements for Skin Cancer Prevention

The requirements on sunscreens have essentially changed, since some years ago it was demonstrated that approximately 50% of free radicals, that are formed in the skin by solar radiation, originate from the visible and infrared regions of the solar spectrum. In addition, a critical radical concentration threshold could be found. If this concentration, the free radical threshold value (FRTV), is exceeded, sunburn, immunosuppression and skin cancer may develop. Application of sunscreens and lotions protects against sunburn in the UV region of the solar spectrum and therefore is frequently used to extend people's stay in the sun. However, this behaviour can enhance the concentration of free radicals formed in the visible and infrared regions of the solar spectrum, so that the critical radical threshold is exceeded and the skin may be damaged.