Dynamic hairspray analysis. II. Effect of polymer, hair type, and solvent composition

A texture analyzer was employed to study the properties of hairspray resins by measuring a number of mechanical parameters of hair modified by them. Hairset stiffness, stiffness retention at high humidity, and duration and magnitude of polymer film tackiness during drying were the properties employed to characterize fixative-treated hair. They were investigated for formulations containing ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, butyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/PVP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer, and polymer blends such as poly(methylvinylether) (PMVE) - ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer. It was demonstrated that the properties of hair treated with a fixative are affected by the concentration and molecular weight of a polymer, low-molecularweight additives that can modify the mechanical, surface, or interfacial properties of a polymer film, and the presence of water in the formulation. It was also shown, that the type of hair employed, such as virgin, untreated hair or hair damaged by bleaching, can also have an effect on the performance of a given hairspray formulation. For compositions based on blends of PMVE and ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, the employed method demonstrated the sensitivity of the properties of polymer blends to the presence of a hydrophilic component such as PMVE.

Trends in the musk xylene concentrations in plasma samples from the general population from 1992/1993 to 1998 and the relevance of dermal uptake

OBJECTIVES

Musk xylene (MX), an environmentally important nitromusk compound, is used in different fragrances and soaps as substitute for natural musk. MX is known to occur in breast milk and plasma samples from the general population. Biological monitoring was carried out to study the change in MX concentrations in plasma from the general population over a period of about 6 years.

METHODS

Forty-one human plasma samples from the general population were collected and analyzed in 1998. The MX concentrations in plasma were compared with those in samples collected from the general population in 1992/1993. In order to study possible routes of exposure, we also analyzed perfumes (n = 8), various body-care products (n = 17), and detergents (n = 5) in the households from the persons who were exposed in 1998. The body-care products or the detergents were used every day or at least 3 -4 times per week.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

A remarkable decrease in MX levels was found on comparing the values from 1992,1993 and 1998. In 1998 12% (five out of 41) of the samples analyzed yielded positive results for MX (median: <0.1 microg/l, range: <0.1-0.29 microg/l), while in 1993 MX was found in 92% (66 out of 72) of the samples (median: 0.24 microg/l, range: <0.1- 1.12 microg/l). The observed decrease is explained by the discontinued use of MX in detergents in Germany since 1993. As a consequence, no MX could be found in the investigated detergents in the present study. However, MX could be analyzed in at least one perfume and/or perfumed bodycare product of the exposed individuals. The concentrations were in the range between 8.8 and 28.8 mg/kg in the investigated products. Because other confounding factors, e.g. diet and occupational exposure, could be excluded, the results point to the possibility that MX can be taken up through the skin. However, the small number of investigated persons limits this assumption.

Inhibition of human glutathione S-transferase P1-1 by tocopherols and alpha-tocopherol derivatives

alpha-Tocopherol inhibits glutathione S-transferase P1-1 (GST P1-1) (R.I.M. van Haaften, C.T.A. Evelo, G.R.M.M. Haenen, A. Bast, Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 280 (2001)). In various cosmetic and dietary products alpha-tocopherol is added as a tocopherol ester. Therefore we have studied the effect of various tocopherol derivatives on GST P1-1 activity. It was found that GST P1-1 is inhibited, in a concentration dependent manner, by these compounds. Of the compounds tested, the tocopherols were the most potent inhibitors of GST P1-1; the concentration giving 50% inhibition (IC(50)) is <1 microM. The esterified tocopherols and alpha-tocopherol quinone also inhibit the GST P1-1 activity at a very low concentration: for most compounds the IC(50) was below 10 microM. RRR-alpha-Tocopherol acetate lowered the V(max) values, but did not affect the K(m) for either 1-chloro-2,4-dinitrobenzene or GSH. This indicates that the GST P1-1 enzyme is non-competitively inhibited by RRR-alpha-tocopherol acetate. The potential implications of GST P1-1 inhibition by tocopherol and alpha-tocopherol derivatives are discussed.

Should this team be saved?

As far as anyone could tell, Vigor Skin Care's star was rising, mostly on the strength of Ageless Vigor, its new line of enriched skin cleansers and cosmetics. In fact, this evening, the three employees responsible for developing the product line were slated to receive the parent company's highest award for performance. But CEO Peter Markles knew that despite the accolades, the business unit--and its "fearsome threesome"--had hit a rough patch in recent months. When Peter took the reins four years ago, Vigor Skin Care was the sleeping dog of the health-and-beauty industry; his challenge was to rejuvenate the maturing business. He knew a turnaround would require equal parts discipline, politics, and creativity--so he pulled together a team that could address those needs. Peter relied on Sandy Fryda, Vigor's longtime marketing director, to help him navigate the tricky political waters at headquarters. And he tapped 30-year-old Josh Bartola, a maverick contributor to Vigor Skin Care's research group, for his independent spirit and new product ideas. Their all-consuming, intensely collaborative efforts resulted in the successful Ageless Vigor line. Then reality set in. The team found the day-to-day operations of manufacturing Ageless Vigor, for all their necessity and urgency, a bit tedious. Peter felt relegated to troubleshooting distribution problems. Josh was having meetings with executives from another division who were actively recruiting the wunderkind. And Sandy was simply on the verge of burnout. Tonight, at the award ceremony, there would be speeches and applause and toasts. But tomorrow, Peter would have to face the question: Should he try to salvage the Ageless Vigor team? Four commentators offer their advice in this fictional case study.

Complications of eyelash and eyebrow tattooing: reports of 2 cases of pigment fanning

Eyelash and eyebrow tattooing are commonly performed procedures that have a very low rate of reported complications. We describe one case of infraorbital pigmentation after eyelash tattooing and another of periorbital pigmentation after eyebrow tattooing. Although most complications related to eyelash and eyebrow tattooing, including pigment fanning, have been reported by ophthalmologists, pigment fanning is also of concern to dermatologists.

Safety assessment of propyl paraben: a review of the published literature

Propyl paraben (CAS no. 94-13-3) is a stable, non-volatile compound used as an antimicrobial preservative in foods, drugs and cosmetics for over 50 years. It is an ester of p-hydroxybenzoate. Propyl paraben is readily absorbed via the gastrointestinal tract and dermis. It is hydrolyzed to p-hydroxybenzoic acid, conjugated and the conjugates are rapidly excreted in the urine. There is no evidence of accumulation. Acute toxicity studies in animals indicate that propyl paraben is relatively non-toxic by both oral and parenteral routes, although it is mildly irritating to the skin. Following chronic administration, no-observed-effect levels (NOEL) as high as 1200-4000 mg/kg have been reported and a no-observed-adverse-effect level (NOAEL) in the rat of 5500 mg/kg is posited. Propyl paraben is not carcinogenic, mutagenic or clastogenic. It is not cytogenic in vitro in the absence of carboxyesterase inhibitors. The mechanism of propyl paraben may be linked to mitochondrial failure dependent on induction of membrane permeability transition accompanied by the mitochondrial depolarization and depletion of cellular ATP through uncoupling of oxidative phosphorylation. Sensitization has occurred when medications containing parabens have been applied to damaged or broken skin. Parabens have been implicated in numerous cases of contact sensitivity associated with cutaneous exposure, but high concentrations of 5-15% in patch testing are needed to elicit reaction in susceptible individuals. Allergic reactions to ingested parabens have been reported, although rigorous evidence of the allergenicity of ingested paraben is lacking.

Serratia liquefaciens bloodstream infections from contamination of epoetin alfa at a hemodialysis center

BACKGROUND

In a one month period, 10 Serratia liquefaciens bloodstream infections and 6 pyrogenic reactions occurred in outpatients at a hemodialysis center.

METHODS

We performed a cohort study of all hemodialysis sessions on days that staff members reported S. liquefaciens bloodstream infections or pyrogenic reactions. We reviewed procedures and cultured samples of water, medications, soaps, and hand lotions and swabs from the hands of personnel.

RESULTS

We analyzed 208 sessions involving 48 patients. In 12 sessions, patients had S. liquefaciens bloodstream infections, and in 8, patients had pyrogenic reactions without bloodstream infection. Sessions with infections or reactions were associated with higher median doses of epoetin alfa than the 188 other sessions (6500 vs. 4000 U, P=0.03) and were more common during afternoon or evening shifts than morning shifts (P=0.03). Sessions with infections or reactions were associated with doses of epoetin alfa of more than 4000 U (multivariate odds ratio, 4.0; 95 percent confidence interval, 1.3 to 12.3). A review of procedures revealed that preservative-free, single-use vials of epoetin alfa were punctured multiple times, and residual epoetin alfa from multiple vials was pooled and administered to patients. S. liquefaciens was isolated from pooled epoetin alfa, empty vials of epoetin alfa that had been pooled, antibacterial soap, and hand lotion. All the isolates were identical by pulsed-field gel electrophoresis. After the practice of pooling epoetin alfa was discontinued and the contaminated soap and lotion were replaced, no further S. liquefaciens bloodstream infections or pyrogenic reactions occurred at this hemodialysis facility.

CONCLUSIONS

Puncturing single-use vials multiple times and pooling preservative-free epoetin alfa caused this outbreak of bloodstream infections in a hemodialysis unit. To prevent similar outbreaks, medical personnel should follow the manufacturer's guidelines for the use of preservative-free medications.

Development of a cream from a self-emulsifying base and moisturizing actives

This research study is based on the design and development of a semisolid emulsion system whose novel self-emulsifying base and preferentially moisturizing actives were investigated to find out whether the system mentioned could be used as a dermatological treatment for highly sensitive skins, including atopic ones. Thus, one of the main objectives of the present study consisted of in vivo evaluation of its effectiveness by means of non-invasive assessment techniques currently employed in cosmetology. Due to the fact that the new formula is, in principle, designed for skins that could present any kind of alteration, the current study was focused on rheological parameters of viscosity, thixotropy, and extensibility to guarantee not only an accurate assessment of composition but also a comfortable and safe application on skin.

Incidence of Umbilical Hernia in African Children: Redefinition of "Normal" and Reevaluation of Indications for Repair

This study was undertaken to assess the degree of ubiquity of umbilical hernias (UHs) in Nigerians and to determine if a laissez faire approach to the presence of UHs is justified. A prospective evaluation was conducted of the umbilical area of 4052 Nigerians living in the vicinity of the Baptist Medical Centre (BMCO) in Ogbomoso, Nigeria. The diameter of the fascial defect was measured with the subject supine and the protrusion of the umbilical skin with the subject erect. Subjects were divided into three groups: group 1 (1 month to 18 years old); group 2 (older than 18 years); and group 3 (pregnant women in an antenatal clinic). "Outies" (defined as any protrusion of the umbilical tip past the periumbilical skin) were present in 92% of group 1, 49% of group 2, and 90% of group 3 subjects. UHs (defined as protrusion of at least 5 mm and diameter of at least 10 mm) were present in 23% of group 1, 8% of group 2, and 15% of group 3 subjects. Spontaneous closure of UHs seems to occur until age 14. A retrospective analysis identified 11 patients undergoing emergency operations for UH-related problems during the past 15 years. With a low incidence and 0% mortality rate associated with management of these emergencies, a policy of prophylactic repair is not justified at BMCO. Because most of the children we examined had outies, repair for cosmetic reasons is rarely requested. The only logical indication for repair of UHs at BMCO is incarceration, and this rarely occurs.

Production of interleukin-1 beta, interleukin-6 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha by a rat corneal epithelial cell line

Production of interleukin (IL)-1 beta, IL-6 and tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-alpha by rat corneal epithelial cells in response to lipopolysaccharide and phorbol-12-myristate-13-acetate (PMA) was tested. Supernatants from rat corneal epithelial cells treated with lipopolysaccharide and PMA were collected after 6, 24 and 48 h and tested with enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay for IL-1 beta, IL-6 and TNF-alpha. The activity of TNF-alpha was additionally confirmed with bioassay on L929 cells. It was found that control groups did not produce significant levels of either cytokine. However, after stimulation with lipopolysaccharide, cells produced mainly IL-6, whereas after PMA they produced mainly TNF-alpha. IL-6 levels 24 and 48 h after PMA stimulation were also elevated, which could have been caused by the presence of TNF-alpha. Production of IL-1 beta in all groups was very low and remained within the test sensitivity range. These results show that the rat corneal epithelial cell line produces inflammatory cytokines in response to proinflammatory mediators. For this reason, it could be used for measuring the effects of irritants on the cornea.

EEMCO guidance for the assessment of transepidermal water loss in cosmetic sciences

Measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), based on the estimation of the water vapour gradient in an open chamber, is being used to support claims of cosmetics including product mildness, reduction in irritative skin reactions, skin hydration, skin repair, protective effect against UV damage and others. TEWL measurement can also screen ingredients that have a beneficial effect on the barrier function and offer the possibility to monitor in vivo, on human skin, the effect of topical treatment in an objective and non-invasive way. A high number of variables affecting TEWL measurements have been identified. These should be rigorously taken into consideration. To work under standardised conditions is of the utmost importance to obtain reliable and reproducible results.

Risk factors for basal cell carcinoma

The aim of this study was to assess the risk factors for basal cell carcinoma (BCC). A case-control study, carried out in two towns in Yugoslavia, comprised 200 BCC cases and 399 controls. For statistical analysis, univariate and multivariate logistic regressions were used. The risk factors found for BCC were: freckling before the age 15, seven or more weeks per year spent at the seaside during holidays (lifetime average), outdoor work during summer-time, occupational exposure to organic and non-organic dissolvents and organophosphatic compounds, use of tar for cosmetic purposes, and previous BCC in personal history. Subjects who tended to burn and not to tan after sun exposure also showed a significantly higher risk for BCC. Brown eyes and history of acne had a protective effect. This study confirmed the role of both constitutional and environmental factors in the development of BCC.

Evaluation of health aspects of kojic acid in food

Kojic acid is a fungal metabolite commonly produced by many species of Aspergillus, Acetobacter, and Penicillium. The Aspergillus flavus group has traditionally been used in the production of a number of foods, including miso (soybean paste), shoyu (soy sauce), and sake. Kojic acid is widely used as a food additive for preventing enzymatic browning, and in cosmetic preparations as a skin-lightening or bleaching agent. Because kojic acid is often produced during the fermentation of historically used dietary staples, it has a long history of consumption. Various types of compounds, such as glucose, sucrose, acetate, ethanol, arabinose, and xylose, have been used as carbon sources for kojic acid production. Different Aspergillus species are known to produce variable amounts of kojic acid. The mechanism of action of kojic acid is well defined and it has been shown to act as a competitive and reversible inhibitor of animal and plant polyphenol oxidases, xanthine oxidase, and D- and some L-amino acid oxidases. The structure of kojic acid indicates a relatively simple route of metabolism much like dietary hexoses. Acute or subchronic toxicity resulting from an oral dose has not been reported, but convulsions may occur if kojic acid is injected. Results of mutagenicity studies are mixed, but in the in vivo mammalian dominant lethal assay, kojic acid was proven negative. Continuous administration of high doses of kojic acid in mice resulted in induction of thyroid adenomas in both sexes. Kojic acid reversibly affects thyroid function primarily by inhibiting iodine uptake, leading to decreases in T3 and T4 and increase in TSH. Increased TSH from pituitary gland in turn stimulates thyroid hyperplasia. Several lines of evidence indicate that the proliferative effects of kojic acid on thyroid are not related to a genotoxic pathway. The risk of functional inhibition of iodine uptake and its metabolism (organification) and thyroid tumor induction by kojic acid in humans appears to be extremely low. Based on the literature reviewed and discussed here, consumption of kojic acid at levels normally found in food does not present a concern for safety.

Effect of hand cleansing with antimicrobial soap or alcohol-based gel on microbial colonization of artificial fingernails worn by health care workers

This study was undertaken to determine differences in microflora on the nails of health care workers (HCWs) wearing artificial nails compared with control HCWs with native nails and to assess the effect on these microflora of hand cleansing with antimicrobial soap or alcohol-based gel. Cultures were obtained from 21 HCWs wearing artificial nails and 20 control HCWs before and after using antimicrobial soap or alcohol-based gel. Before cleansing with soap, 86% of HCWs with artificial nails had a pathogen (gram-negative bacilli, Staphylococcus aureus, or yeasts) isolated, compared with 35% of controls (P=.003); a similar difference was noted before hand cleansing with gel (68% vs. 28%; P=.03). Significantly more HCWs with artificial nails than controls had pathogens remaining after hand cleansing with soap or gel. Of HCWs with artificial nails, only 11% cleared pathogens with soap compared with 38% with gel. Of control HCWs, only 14% cleared with soap compared with 80% with gel. Artificial acrylic fingernails could contribute to the transmission of pathogens, and their use by HCWs should be discouraged.

Quantitative methods for evaluating optical and frictional properties of cationic polymers

This paper presents three quantitative methods to examine gloss, opacity, and friction of cationic polymers. The adsorption of cationic polymers onto hair and skin can be regarded as a thin film coating. Therefore, optical and frictional properties of polymer films are of significant relevance to the applications of cationic polymers in hair care products. Such properties reflect the desirable hair condition attributes consumers seek in shampoo and conditioner products. Using these test methods, polyquaternium-10 and cationic guar samples of varying molecular weight and cationic substitution were compared. The effect of an anionic surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), on polymer film properties was also investigated. Neat guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride imparts less friction than polyquaternium-10 but dulls the substrate employed in this study. The optical data show that polyquaternium-10 provides greater film clarity and gloss than cationic guars. In the presence of SDS, polyquaternium-10 also displays similar or lower friction than cationic guar. The comparative optical and frictional results are in good agreement with the visual assessment of the cationic polymer films. These results clearly demonstrate that polyquaternium-10 exhibits superior film properties in the forms of both neat polymer and polymer/surfactant complex. In addition, microscopic techniques such as scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and atomic force microscopy (AFM) provide powerful explanations for the differences noted between the two popular classes of cationic polymers. The test methods described in this paper can be utilized to differentiate the upper performance potential of cationic polymers. These objective and standardized test methods derived from the coatings industry are not affected by the variability of hair or the formulation complexity of end products. They can be useful tools in the product development process in quickly screening the relative performance of different polymers.