Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon skin permeation efficiency in vitro is lower through human than pigskin and decreases with lipophilicity

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) are persistent environmental pollutants, which occasionally appear as contaminants in consumer products. Upon dermal contact, transfer of PAH into the stratum corneum (s.c.) and migration through the skin may occur, resulting in this class of highly toxic compounds to become bioavailable. In this study, dermal penetration through human and porcine skin of 24 PAH, comprising broad molar mass (M: 152-302 g/mol) and octanol-water partition coefficient (logP: 3.9-7.3) ranges, was evaluated via Franz diffusion cell in vitro assays. More lipophilic and potentially more toxic PAH had decreased permeation rates through the rather lipophilic s.c. into the more hydrophilic viable (epi-)dermis. Furthermore, human skin was less permeable than pigskin, a commonly used surrogate in skin penetration studies. In particular, the s.c. of human skin retains a greater share of PAH, an effect that is more pronounced for smaller PAH. Additionally, we compared the skin permeation kinetics of different PAH in pigskin. While small PAH (M < 230 g/mol, logP < 6) permeate the skin quickly and are detected in the receptor fluid after 2 h, large PAH (M > 252 g/mol, logP ≥ 6) do not fully permeate the skin up to 48 h. This indicates that highly lipophilic PAH do not become bioavailable as readily as their smaller congeners when transferred to the skin surface. Our data suggest that pigskin could be used as a surrogate for worst case scenario estimates of dermal PAH permeation through human skin.

Models of the Three-Component Bilayer of Stratum Corneum: A Molecular Simulation Study

The construction of the stratum corneum (SC) is crucial to the problems of transdermal drug delivery. SC consists of the keratinocyte layers and the lipid matrix surrounding it. Among them, the lipid matrix is the barrier for many exogenous molecules, mainly composed of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (CHOL). In this work, we developed single-component (CERs, CER-NS, and CER-EOS) and six three-component models, and each model was simulated by using the GROMOS-54A7 force field. Short-period phase (SPP) and long-period phase (LPP) systems were established separately, and area per lipid (APL), thickness, order of carbon chain (SCD), and density distribution were analyzed. The transition of CER-NS and CER-EOS in LPP was observed. The results of hydrogen bonds in the lipid systems indicated that a strong hydrogen-bond network was formed between the skin-lipid bilayers. Umbrella sampling method simulations were performed to calculate the free energy change of ethanol moving into the skin-lipid bilayer. The results revealed that ethanol molecules pulled some water molecules into the membrane when they passed through SPP-1. Our findings provided some insights and models of the stratum corneum that could be used for the subsequent mechanism of macromolecule permeation through membranes in drugs, cosmetics, and so on.

Glycols: The ubiquitous solvent for dermal formulations

Glycols stand out as one of the most commonly employed safe and effective excipients for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products. Their widespread adoption can be attributed to their exceptional solvency characteristics and their ability to interact effectively with skin lipids and keratin for permeation enhancement. Notably, propylene glycol enjoys significant popularity in this regard. Ongoing research endeavours have been dedicated to scrutinising the impact of glycols on dermal drug delivery and shedding light on the intricate mechanisms by which glycols enhance skin permeation. This review aims to mitigate the discordance within the existing literature, assemble a holistic understanding of the impact of glycols on the percutaneous absorption of active compounds and furnish the reader with a profound comprehension of the foundational facets pertaining to their skin permeation enhancement mechanisms, while simultaneously delving deeper into the intricacies of these processes.

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

A Comparative Analysis of Biological and Synthetic Skin Models for Drug Transport Studies

Ethical restrictions as well as practical or economic issues related to use of animal and human skin has been the main reason the growth in the number of investigations with alternative models. Reconstructed skin models, for example, have been useful to evaluate the in vitro toxicity of compounds; however, these models usually overestimate the amount of drug permeated due to impaired barrier properties. In this review, the performance of synthetic and biological skin models in transport studies was compared by considering two compounds with different physicochemical properties. The advantages and limitations of each skin model are discussed in detail. Although synthetic and reconstructed skin models have shown to be useful in the formulation optimization step, they present many limitations: (1) impaired barrier properties; (2) lack of follicular transport; (3) no metabolism in synthetic membranes; (4) differences in terms of lipid organization; (5) more affected by formulation constituents. Therefore, animal and human tissues should still be prioritized in drug transport studies until new advances in alternative models are achieved. Investigations of the impact of cell-culture conditions on skin formation, in turn, bring perspectives related to the development of unhealthy/injured skin models (an aspect that still deserves attention).

The Contest of Nanoparticles: Searching for the Most Effective Topical Delivery of Corticosteroids

Owing to their complicated pathophysiology, the treatment of skin diseases necessitates a complex approach. Conventional treatment using topical corticosteroids often results in low effectiveness and the incidence of local or even systemic side effects. Nanoformulation of potent anti-inflammatory drugs has been selected as an optimal strategy for enhanced topical delivery of corticosteroids. In order to assess the efficiency of various nanoformulations, we formulated hydrocortisone (HC) and hydrocortisone-17-butyrate (HCB) into three different systems: lipid nanocapsules (LNC), polymeric nanoparticles (PNP), and ethosomes (ETZ). The systems were characterized using dynamic light scattering for their particle size and uniformity and the morphology of nanoparticles was observed by transmission electron microscopy. The nanosystems were tested using ex vivo full thickness porcine and human skin for the delivery of HC and HCB. The skin penetration was observed by confocal microscopy of fluorescently labelled nanosystems. ETZ were proposed as the most effective delivery system for both transdermal and dermal drug targeting but were also found to have a profound effect on the skin barrier with limited restoration. LNC and PNP were found to have significant effects in the dermal delivery of the actives with only minimal transdermal penetration, especially in case of HCB administration.

Nanoparticles for Topical Application in the Treatment of Skin Dysfunctions-An Overview of Dermo-Cosmetic and Dermatological Products

Nanomaterials (NM) arouse interest in various fields of science and industry due to their composition-tunable properties and the ease of modification. They appear currently as components of many consumer products such as sunscreen, dressings, sports clothes, surface-cleaning agents, computer devices, paints, as well as pharmaceutical and cosmetics formulations. The use of NPs in products for topical applications improves the permeation/penetration of the bioactive compounds into deeper layers of the skin, providing a depot effect with sustained drug release and specific cellular and subcellular targeting. Nanocarriers provide advances in dermatology and systemic treatments. Examples are a non-invasive method of vaccination, advanced diagnostic techniques, and transdermal drug delivery. The mechanism of action of NPs, efficiency of skin penetration, and potential threat to human health are still open and not fully explained. This review gives a brief outline of the latest nanotechnology achievements in products used in topical applications to prevent and treat skin diseases. We highlighted aspects such as the penetration of NPs through the skin (influence of physical-chemical properties of NPs, the experimental models for skin penetration, methods applied to improve the penetration of NPs through the skin, and methods applied to investigate the skin penetration by NPs). The review summarizes various therapies using NPs to diagnose and treat skin diseases (melanoma, acne, alopecia, vitiligo, psoriasis) and anti-aging and UV-protectant nano-cosmetics.

Repellent active ingredients encapsulated in polymeric nanoparticles: potential alternative formulations to control arboviruses

Dengue, yellow fever, Chinkungunya, Zika virus, and West Nile fever have infected millions and killed a considerable number of humans since their emergence. These arboviruses are transmitted by mosquito bites and topical chemical repellents are the most commonly used method to protect against vector arthropod species. This study aimed to develop a new generation of repellent formulations to promote improved arboviruses transmission control. A repellent system based on polycaprolactone (PCL)-polymeric nanoparticles was developed for the dual encapsulation of IR3535 and geraniol and further incorporation into a thermosensitive hydrogel. The physicochemical and morphological parameters of the prepared formulations were evaluated by dynamic light scattering (DLS), nano tracking analysis (NTA), atomic force microscopy (AFM). In vitro release mechanisms and permeation performance were evaluated before and after nanoparticles incorporation into the hydrogels. FTIR analysis was performed to evaluate the effect of formulation epidermal contact. Potential cytotoxicity was evaluated using the MTT reduction test and disc diffusion methods. The nanoparticle formulations were stable over 120 days with encapsulation efficiency (EE) of 60% and 99% for IR3535 and geraniol, respectively. AFM analysis revealed a spherical nanoparticle morphology. After 24 h, 7 ± 0.1% and 83 ± 2% of the GRL and IR3535, respectively, were released while the same formulation incorporated in poloxamer 407 hydrogel released 11 ± 0.9% and 29 ± 3% of the loaded GRL and IR3535, respectively. GRL permeation from PCL nanoparticles and PCL nanoparticles in the hydrogel showed similar profiles, while IR3535 permeation was modulated by formulation compositions. Differences in IR3535 permeated amounts were higher for PCL nanoparticles in the hydrogels (36.9 ± 1.1 mg/cm²) compared to the IR3535-PCL nanoparticles (29.2 ± 1.5 mg/cm²). However, both active permeation concentrations were low at 24 h, indicating that the formulations (PCL nanoparticles and PCL in hydrogel) controlled the bioactive percutaneous absorption. Minor changes in the stratum corneum (SC) caused by interaction with the formulations may not represent a consumer safety risk. The cytotoxicity results presented herein indicate the carrier systems based on poly-epsilon caprolactone (PCL) exhibited a reduced toxic effect when compared to emulsions, opening perspectives for these systems to be used as a tool to prolong protection times with lower active repellent concentrations.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Mechanisms and Implications of Bacterial Invasion across the Human Skin Barrier

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with a deficiency of skin lipids, increased populations of Staphylococcus aureus in the microbiome, and structural defects in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of human skin. However, the pathogenesis of AD is ambiguous, as it is unclear whether observed changes are the result of AD or contribute to the pathogenesis of the disease. Previous studies have shown that S. aureus is capable of permeating across isolated human SC tissue when lipids are depleted to levels consistent with AD conditions. In this study, we expand upon this discovery to determine the mechanisms and implications of bacterial penetration into the SC barrier. Specifically, we establish if bacteria are permeating intercellularly or employing a combination of both inter- and intracellular travel. The mechanical implications of bacterial invasion, lipid depletion, and media immersion are also evaluated using a newly developed, physiologically relevant, temperature-controlled drip chamber. Results reveal for the first time that S. aureus can be internalized by corneocytes, indicating transcellular movement through the tissue during permeation, consistent with previous theoretical models. S. aureus also degrades the mechanical integrity of human SC, particularly when the tissue is partially depleted of lipids. These observed mechanical changes are likely the cause of broken or ruptured tissue seen as exudative lesions in AD flares. This work further highlights the necessity of lipids in skin microbial barrier function.

IMPORTANCE Millions of people suffer from the chronic inflammatory skin disease atopic dermatitis (AD), whose symptoms are associated with a deficiency of skin lipids that exhibit antimicrobial functions and increased populations of the opportunistic pathogen Staphylococcus aureus. However, the pathogenesis of AD is ambiguous, and it remains unclear if these observed changes are merely the result of AD or contribute to the pathogenesis of the disease. In this article, we demonstrate the necessity of skin lipids in preventing S. aureus from penetrating the outermost barrier of human skin, thereby causing a degradation in tissue integrity. This bacterial permeation into the viable epidermis could act as an inflammatory trigger of the disease. When coupled with delipidated AD tissue conditions, bacterial permeation can also explain increased tissue fragility, potentially causing lesion formation in AD patients that results in further enhancing bacterial permeability across the stratum corneum and the development of chronic conditions.

Skin models for dermal exposure assessment of phthalates

Phthalates are a class of compounds that have found widespread use in industrial applications, in particular in the polymer, cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. While ingestion, and to a lesser degree inhalation, have been considered as the major exposure routes, especially for higher molecular weight phthalates, dermal exposure is an important route for lower weight phthalates such as diethyl phthalate (DEP). Assessing the dermal permeability of such compounds is of great importance for evaluating the impact and toxicity of such compounds in humans. While human skin is still the best model for studying dermal permeation, availability, cost and ethical concerns may preclude or restrict its use. A range of alternative models has been developed over time to substitute for human skin, especially in the early phases of research. These include ex vivo animal skin, human reconstructed skin and artificial skin models. While the results obtained using such alternative models correlate to a lesser or greater degree with those from in vivo human studies, the use of such models is nevertheless vital in dermal permeation research. This review discusses the alternative skin models that are available, their use in phthalate permeation studies and possible new avenues of phthalate research using skin models that have not been used so far.

Thermal analysis of mammalian stratum corneum using differential scanning calorimetry for advancing skin research and drug delivery

For effective topical and transdermal drug delivery, it is necessary for most actives to penetrate and permeate through the stratum corneum (SC). Extensive investigation of the thermal behaviour of mammalian SC has been performed to understand the barrier function of the skin. However, little attention has been paid to the related experimental variables in thermal analysis of the SC using differential scanning calorimetry that may influence the results obtained from such studies. In this review, we provide a comprehensive overview of the thermal transitions of the SC of both porcine and human skin. More importantly, the selection and impact of the experimental and instrumental parameters used in thermal analysis of the SC are critically evaluated. New opportunities for the use of thermal analysis of mammalian SC in advancing skin research, particularly for elucidation of the actions of excipients employed in topical and transdermal formulations on the skin are also highlighted.

Monoketonic Curcuminoid-Lidocaine Co-Deliver Using Thermosensitive Organogels: From Drug Synthesis to Epidermis Structural Studies

Organogels (ORGs) are remarkable matrices due to their versatile chemical composition and straightforward preparation. This study proposes the development of ORGs as dual drug-carrier systems, considering the application of synthetic monoketonic curcuminoid (m-CUR) and lidocaine (LDC) to treat topical inflammatory lesions. The monoketone curcuminoid (m-CUR) was synthesized by using an innovative method via a NbCl₅–acid catalysis. ORGs were prepared by associating an aqueous phase composed of Pluronic F127 and LDC hydrochloride with an organic phase comprising isopropyl myristate (IPM), soy lecithin (LEC), and the synthesized m-CUR. Physicochemical characterization was performed to evaluate the influence of the organic phase on the ORGs supramolecular organization, permeation profiles, cytotoxicity, and epidermis structural characteristics. The physico-chemical properties of the ORGs were shown to be strongly dependent on the oil phase constitution. Results revealed that the incorporation of LEC and m-CUR shifted the sol-gel transition temperature, and that the addition of LDC enhanced the rheological G′/G″ ratio to higher values compared to original ORGs. Consequently, highly structured gels lead to gradual and controlled LDC permeation profiles from the ORG formulations. Porcine ear skin epidermis was treated with ORGs and evaluated by infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), where the stratum corneum lipids were shown to transition from a hexagonal to a liquid crystal phase. Quantitative optical coherence tomography (OCT) analysis revealed that LEC and m-CUR additives modify skin structuring. Data from this study pointed ORGs as promising formulations for skin-delivery.

Current views on non-invasive in vivo determination of physiological parameters of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for non-invasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids, folding properties of keratin, water mobility and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in non-invasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.

The Keratinocyte as a Crucial Cell in the Predisposition, Onset, Progression, Therapy and Study of the Atopic Dermatitis

The keratinocyte (KC) is the main functional and structural component of the epidermis, the most external layer of the skin that is highly specialized in defense against external agents, prevention of leakage of body fluids and retention of internal water within the cells. Altered epidermal barrier and aberrant KC differentiation are involved in the pathophysiology of several skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis (AD). AD is a chronic inflammatory disease characterized by cutaneous and systemic immune dysregulation and skin microbiota dysbiosis. Nevertheless, the pathological mechanisms of this complex disease remain largely unknown. In this review, we summarize current knowledge about the participation of the KC in different aspects of the AD. We provide an overview of the genetic predisposing and environmental factors, inflammatory molecules and signaling pathways of the KC that participate in the physiopathology of the AD. We also analyze the link among the KC, the microbiota and the inflammatory response underlying acute and chronic skin AD lesions.

Lipid composition of the stratum corneum in different regions of the body of Kuhl's pipistrelle from the Negev Desert, Israel

The most superficial epidermal layer in endotherms is the stratum corneum (SC), which is composed of dead corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix with free fatty acids, cholesterol, ceramides, and cerebrosides; the lipid composition of the SC determines its permeability to water vapor. Lipids that are more polar, have longer hydrocarbon chains, and are less bulky are often packed in more ordered phase states to slow cutaneous evaporative water loss (CEWL); these lipids also resist transitions to more disordered phases at high ambient temperatures (T_a). In bats, wing and tail membranes (wing patagia and tail uropatagium, respectively) allow powered flight, but increase surface area, and hence CEWL, with implications for survival in arid environments. We captured Pipistrellus kuhlii from an arid habitat and measured the lipid composition of the SC of the plagiopatagium in the wing, the uropatagium, and the non-membranous region (NMR) of the body using thin layer chromatography and reversed phase high performance liquid chromatography coupled with atmospheric pressure photoionization mass spectrometry. The patagia contained more cholesterol and shorter-chained ceramides, and fewer cerebrosides than the NMR, indicating that the lipid phase transition temperature in the patagia is lower than in the NMR. Thus, at moderate T_a the lipids in the SC in all body regions will remain in an ordered phase state, allowing water conservation; but as T_a increases, the lipids in the SC of the patagia will more easily transition into a disordered phase, resulting in increased CEWL from the patagia facilitating efficient heat dissipation in hot environments.

How to define the experimental conditions of skin permeation assays for drugs presenting biopharmaceutical limitations? The experience with testosterone

Cutaneous permeation assays are crucial to attest the performance or bioequivalence of topical or transdermal products. Although the official guidelines (e.g., FDA/EMA) play a key role in harmonizing the experimental design, alternative methods are often proposed by the scientific community, which makes it difficult to compare results from different studies. In this review, permeation assays with testosterone (TST) were selected to show this high variability in drug transport rate. The main sources of variation discussed were tissue thickness, animal model, donor and receptor fluid constitution, type of solubilizing agent used in aqueous fluids, drug concentration, degree of supersaturation, skin lipid content, number of experimental times and the physical-chemical stability of the molecule in test fluids. This variation becomes even more critical for molecules that present biopharmaceutical limitations such as TST. In addition, the skin presents specific receptors for this hormone due to its physiological action in this region of the body, which makes the evaluation of the TST transport rate in this tissue even more challenging. The impact of each experimental parameter mentioned above on the flux or permeation coefficient of TST is discussed in detail in the review. Assays used to evaluate tissue integrity are also presented.

Effects of ozone on stratum corneum lipid integrity and assembly

The stratum corneum (SC) acts as the main barrier of the skin against exogenous substances (e.g. air pollutants) and against the loss of endogenous substances such as water. The SC consists of keratin-rich dead cells surrounded by crystalline lamellar lipid regions. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs), and cholesterol (CHOL). Tropospheric ozone (O₃) is a potent oxidant compound that reacts instantly with biological molecules such as lipids and proteins. Although it has been reported that O₃ induces biological responses at the cellular level, to the best of our knowledge, there is no information related to the damages O₃ can cause at the level of the SC extracellular lipid matrix. The aim of our work was to investigate which SC lipid subclasses are prone to oxidation when exposed to O₃ and how the changes in chemical structures affect the lipid organization in a stratum corneum substitute (SCS) membrane. Ultimately the barrier properties of the SCS were examined. Our studies reveal that O₃ induces chemical modifications of the unsaturated bonds in CERs and CHOL. The appearance of carbonyl groups at the headgroup level and the removal of the linoleate moiety of omega acylceramides (CER EOS) impact the lamellar organization of the lipid assembly and to a lesser extent the lateral packing of the lipids. Unexpectedly, the modifications improved the barrier function of the SCS.

Effects of (R)- and (S)-α-Hydroxylation of Acyl Chains in Sphingosine, Dihydrosphingosine, and Phytosphingosine Ceramides on Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cers) with α-hydroxylated acyl chains comprise about a third of all extractable skin Cers and are required for permeability barrier homeostasis. We have probed here the effects of Cer hydroxylation on their behavior in lipid models comprising the major SC lipids, Cer/free fatty acids (C ₁₆-C ₂₄)/cholesterol, and a minor component, cholesteryl sulfate. Namely, Cers with (R)-α-hydroxy lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer AS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer AdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer AP) were compared to their unnatural (S)-diastereomers and to Cers with non-hydroxylated lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer NdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer NP). By comparing several biophysical parameters (lamellar organization by X-ray diffraction, chain order, lateral packing, phase transitions, and lipid mixing by infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids) and the permeabilities of these models (water loss and two permeability markers), we conclude that there is no general or common consequence of Cer α-hydroxylation. Instead, we found a rich mix of effects, highly dependent on the sphingoid base chain, configuration at the α-carbon, and permeability marker used. We found that the model membranes with unnatural Cer (S)-AS have fewer orthorhombically packed lipid chains than those based on the (R)-diastereomer. In addition, physiological (R)-configuration decreases the permeability of membranes, with Cer (R)-AdS to theophylline, and increases the lipid chain order in model systems with natural Cer (R)-AP. Thus, each Cer subclass makes a distinct contribution to the structural organization and function of the skin lipid barrier.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Development of a Gaussian Process - feature selection model to characterise (poly)dimethylsiloxane (Silastic® ) membrane permeation

OBJECTIVES

The current study aims to determine the effect of physicochemical descriptor selection on models of polydimethylsiloxane permeation.

METHODS

A total of 2942 descriptors were calculated for a data set of 77 chemicals. Data were processed to remove redundancy, single values, imbalanced and highly correlated data, yielding 1363 relevant descriptors. For four independent test sets, feature selection methods were applied and modelled via a variety of Machine Learning methods.

KEY FINDINGS

Two sets of molecular descriptors which can provide improved predictions, compared to existing models, have been identified. Best permeation predictions were found with Gaussian Process methods. The molecular descriptors describe lipophilicity, partial charge and hydrogen bonding as key determinants of PDMS permeation.

CONCLUSIONS

This study highlights important considerations in the development of relevant models and in the construction and use of the data sets used in such studies, particularly that highly correlated descriptors should be removed from data sets. Predictive models are improved by the methodology adopted in this study, notably the systematic evaluation of descriptors, rather than simply using any and all available descriptors, often based empirically on in vitro experiments. Such findings also have clear relevance to a number of other fields.

Lipid depletion enables permeation of Staphylococcus aureus bacteria through human stratum corneum

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory disease that affects approximately 2-5% of adults worldwide. The pathogenesis of AD continues to be a well-debated point of conjecture, with numerous hypotheses having been proposed. AD conditions are associated with increased populations of Staphylococcus aureus and reduced skin lipids. In this study, we evaluate the ability of S. aureus to permeate across human stratum corneum (SC) exhibiting both normal and depleted lipid conditions consistent with AD. This permeation would enable bacteria to interact with underlying viable epidermal cells, which could serve as a trigger for inflammation and disease onset. Our results indicate that permeation of S. aureus through SC exhibiting normal lipid conditions is not statistically significant. However, bacteria can readily permeate through lipid depleted tissue over a 9-d period. These findings suggest that S. aureus may potentially act as the mechanistic cause, rather than merely the result of AD.

ABBREVIATIONS

AD: Atopic dermatitis; SC: Stratum Corneum; AMP: Antimicrobial peptide; DIW: Deionized water; PDMS: Polydimethylsiloxane; GFP: Green fluorescent protein; BHI: Brain heart infusion medium.

Systematic Investigation of the Effect of Non-Ionic Emulsifiers on Skin by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy-A Comprehensive Lipid Analysis

Non-ionic emulsifiers are commonly found in existing pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations and have been widely employed to enhance the penetration and permeation of active ingredients into the skin. With the potential of disrupting skin barrier function and increasing fluidity of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, we herein examined the effects of two kinds of non-ionic emulsifiers on intercellular lipids of skin, using confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) with lipid signals on skin CRS spectrum. Non-ionic emulsifiers of polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers and sorbitan fatty acid esters were studied to obtain a deep understanding of the mechanism between non-ionic emulsifiers and SC lipids. Emulsifier solutions and dispersions were prepared and applied onto excised porcine skin. Water and sodium laureth sulfate solution (SLS) served as controls. SC lipid signals were analysed by CRS regarding lipid content, conformation and lateral packing order. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) sorbitan esters revealed no alteration of intercellular lipid properties while PEG-20 ethers appeared to have the most significant effects on reducing lipid content and interrupting lipid organization. In general, the polyoxyethylene chain and alkyl chain of PEG derivative emulsifiers might indicate their ability of interaction with SC components. HLB values remained critical for complete explanation of emulsifier effects on skin lipids. With this study, it is possible to characterize the molecular effects of non-ionic emulsifiers on skin lipids and further deepen the understanding of enhancing substance penetration with reduced skin barrier properties and increased lipid fluidity.

Investigation of TEMPO partitioning in different skin models as measured by EPR spectroscopy - Insight into the stratum corneum

Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy represents an established tool to study properties of microenvironments, e.g. to investigate the structure and dynamics of biological and artificial membranes. In this study, the partitioning of the spin probe 2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine-1-oxyl (TEMPO) in ex vivo human abdominal and breast skin, ex vivo porcine abdominal and ear skin as well as normal and inflammatory in vitro skin equivalents was investigated by EPR spectroscopy. Furthermore, the stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition (as determined by high-performance thin-layer chromatography), SC lipid chain order (probed by infrared spectroscopy) and the SC thickness (investigated by histology) were determined in the skin models. X-band EPR measurements have shown that TEMPO partitions in the lipophilic and hydrophilic microenvironment in varying ratios in different ex vivo and in vitro skin models. Ex vivo human abdominal skin exhibited the highest amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment. In contrast, the lowest amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment was determined in ex vivo human breast skin and the inflammatory in vitro skin equivalents. Individual EPR spectra of epidermis including SC and dermis indicated that the lipophilic microenvironment of TEMPO mainly corresponds to the most lipophilic part of the epidermis, the SC. The amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment was independent of the SC lipid composition and the SC lipid chain order but correlated with the SC thickness. In conclusion, EPR spectroscopy could be a novel technique to determine differences in the SC thickness, thus suitably complementing existing methods.

Heterogeneous ceramide distributions alter spatially resolved growth of Staphylococcus aureus on human stratum corneum

Contemporary studies have revealed dramatic changes in the diversity of bacterial microbiota between healthy and diseased skin. However, the prevailing use of swabs to extract the microorganisms has meant that only population 'snapshots' are obtained, and all spatially resolved information of bacterial growth is lost. Here we report on the temporospatial growth of Staphylococcus aureus on the surface of the human stratum corneum (SC); the outermost layer of skin. This bacterial species dominates bacterial populations on skin with atopic dermatitis (AD). We first establish that the distribution of ceramides naturally present in the SC is heterogeneous, and correlates with the tissue's structural topography. This distribution subsequently impacts the growth of bacterial biofilms. In the SC retaining healthy ceramide concentrations, biofilms exhibit no spatial preference for growth. By contrast, a depletion of ceramides consistent with reductions known to occur with AD enables S. aureus to use the patterned network of topographical canyons as a conduit for growth. The ability of ceramides to govern bacterial growth is confirmed using a topographical skin canyon analogue coated with the ceramide subcomponent d-sphingosine. Our work appears to explain the causal link between ceramide depletion and increased S. aureus populations that is observed in AD. It may also provide insight into disease transmission as well as improving pre-operative skin cleansing techniques.

Cleansing-induced changes in skin measured by in vivo confocal raman spectroscopy

BACKGROUND

One of the most important steps people can take in reducing the spread of bacteria and viruses is washing the hands with soap and water. Frequent washing, required in certain occupations, can lead to skin dryness, chapping, and itching.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy was used to study short-term effects of hand washing on product deposition, lipid acyl chain structural disordering, and extraction of important skin components such as natural moisturizing factors, cholesterol, ceramides, amino acids, and changes in skin hydration. Effects of use of either soap, synthetic detergent, or triethanolamine (TEA)-soap/ glycerin were compared at two water temperatures.

RESULTS

Soap use resulted in significant deposition at all depths to 20 μm at 25°C and at the surface and 2 μm at 37°C. Significant decreases were observed in relative amounts of all skin components studied. NMF levels were not changed. Skin dehydration was observed for use of soap at 37°C.

CONCLUSIONS

Short-term effects of frequent hand washing can be monitored with in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy. Effects of frequent washing may be reduced with lower wash temperature and products. Skin dehydration is not associated with lipid chain disordering.

Probing the interactions among sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides with non- and alpha-hydroxylated acyl chains in skin lipid model membranes

Ceramides (Cers) are significant constituents of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost skin layer responsible for skin barrier properties. Cers are a heterogeneous group of lipids whose mutual interactions are still unclear. To better understand these interactions, we characterized model membranes containing stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and one or more of the following ceramides: N-stearoyl-sphingosine (CerNS), N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerNP) and N-(2-hydroxy)stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerAP). Small angle X-ray scattering and FTIR spectroscopy were used to study lipid arrangement, phase separation and thermotropic behaviour. In the one-Cer systems, the membranes with CerNP showed strong hydrogen bonding and significant phase separation, even after phase transition, while the systems containing CerAP and CerNS had increased lipid miscibility. The multi-Cer systems exhibited different behaviour. In particular, the membrane containing all three Cers was a highly miscible system with narrow one-step phase transition, which, of all the studied samples, occurred at the lowest temperatures. Our results show that even a small variation in Cer structure results in substantially different phase behaviour, which is further affected by the presence of other Cer subclasses. Interestingly, the phase behaviour of the most complex three-Cer system was simpler than that of the others, highlighting the importance of lipid diversity in real SC.

New insight into phase behavior and permeability of skin lipid models based on sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides

The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which consist mainly of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol, is fundamental to the skin barrier function. These lipids assemble into two lamellar phases, known as the long and short periodicity phases (LPP and SPP respectively). The LPP is unique in the SC and is considered important for the skin barrier function. Alterations in CER composition, as well as impaired skin barrier function, are commonly observed in diseased skin, yet the understanding of this relationship remains insufficient. In this study, we have investigated the influence of non-hydroxy and α-hydroxy sphingosine-based CERs and their phytosphingosine counterparts on the permeability and lipid organization of model membranes, which were adjusted in composition to enhance formation of the LPP. The permeability was compared by diffusion studies using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate as a model drug, and the lipid organization was characterized by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. Both the sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based CER models formed the LPP, while the latter exhibited a longer LPP repeat distance. The ethyl-p-aminobenzoate flux across the sphingosine-based CER models was higher when compared to the phytosphingosine counterparts, contrary to the fact that the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based CER model had the lowest chain packing density. The unanticipated low permeability of the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based model is probably associated with a stronger headgroup hydrogen bonding network. Our findings indicate that the increased level of sphingosine-based CERs at the expense of phytosphingosine-based CERs, as observed in the diseased skin, may contribute to the barrier function impairment.

Topical delivery of climbazole to mammalian skin

Dandruff is a common condition, affecting up to half the global population of immunocompetent adults at some time during their lives and it has been highly correlated with the over-expression of the fungus Malassezia spp. Climbazole (CBZ) is used as an antifungal and preservative agent in many marketed formulations for the treatment of dandruff. While the efficacy of CBZ in vitro and in vivo has previously been reported, limited information has been published about the uptake and deposition of CBZ in the skin. Hence, our aim was to investigate the skin permeation of CBZ as well as the influence of various solvents on CBZ skin delivery. Four solvents were selected for the permeability studies of CBZ, namely propylene glycol (PG), octyl salicylate (OSal), Transcutol® P (TC) and polyethylene glycol 200 (PEG). The criteria for selection were based on their wide use as excipients in commercial formulations, their potential to act as skin penetration enhancers and their favourable safety profiles. 1% (w/v) solutions of CBZ were applied under infinite and finite dose conditions using Franz type diffusion cells to human and porcine skin. In line with the topical use of CBZ as an antidandruff agent, comparatively low amounts of CBZ penetrated across the skin barrier (<1% of the applied dose of CBZ). Finite dose studies resulted in a higher extraction of CBZ from human skin compared with infinite dose studies (p < 0.05). CBZ was also taken up to a higher extent in porcine skin (>7-fold) compared with human skin (p < 0.05). Nevertheless, no statistical differences were observed in the amounts that permeated across the different membranes. These preliminary results confirm the potential of simple formulations of CBZ to target the outer layers of the epidermis. The PG and OSal formulations appear to be promising vehicles for CBZ in terms of overall skin extraction and penetration. Future work will expand the range of vehicles studied and explore the reasons underlying the retention of CBZ in the outer layers of the skin.

The Sensitivity of In Vitro Permeation Tests to Chemical Penetration Enhancer Concentration Changes in Fentanyl Transdermal Delivery Systems

Chemical penetration enhancers (CPEs) are frequently incorporated into transdermal delivery systems (TDSs) to improve drug delivery and to reduce the required drug load in formulations. However, the minimum detectable effect of formulation changes to CPE-containing TDSs using in vitro permeation tests (IVPT), a widely used method to characterize permeation of topically applied drug products, remains unclear. The objective of the current exploratory study was to investigate the sensitivity of IVPT in assessing permeation changes with CPE concentration modifications and subsequently the feasibility of IVPT's use for support of quality control related to relative CPE concentration variation in a given formulation. A series of drug-in-adhesive (DIA) fentanyl TDSs with different amounts of CPEs were prepared, and IVPT studies utilizing porcine and human skin were performed. Although IVPT could discern TDSs with different amounts of CPE by significant differences in flux profiles, maximum flux (J_max) values, and total permeation amounts, the magnitudes of the CPE increment needed to see such significant differences were very high (43-300%) indicating that IVPT may have limitations in detecting small changes in CPE amounts in some TDSs. Possible reasons for such limitations include formulation polymer and/or other excipients, type of CPE, variability associated with IVPT, skin type used, and disrupted stratum corneum (SC) barrier effects caused by CPEs.

Human skin in vivo has a higher skin barrier function than porcine skin ex vivo-comprehensive Raman microscopic study of the stratum corneum

Porcine skin is widely used as a human skin model in dermatology. For both, porcine stratum corneum (SC) ex vivo and human SC in vivo, the hydrogen bonding states of water, the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) concentrations and the intercellular lipids' (ICL) lateral organization are investigated depth-dependently using confocal Raman microscopy. The SC depth profiles show that porcine SC ex vivo is characterized by lower hydrogen bonding states of water (10%-30% SC depth), lower NMF concentration in the whole SC, more β-sheet form of keratin (10%-90% SC depth), more folded tertiary keratin structures (30%-70% SC depth) and higher hexagonal lateral packing order of ICL (10%-50% SC depth) compared to human SC in vivo. The results clearly show a higher value of skin barrier function of human SC in vivo than of porcine SC ex vivo. Thus, the human SC in vivo is less permeable for lipophilic and hydrophilic substances than porcine SC ex vivo. Considering the porcine SC as an ex vivo model of human SC in vivo, these findings should be taken into consideration.

Presence and persistence of a highly ordered lipid phase state in the avian stratum corneum

To survive high temperatures in a terrestrial environment, animals must effectively balance evaporative heat loss and water conservation. In passerine birds, cutaneous water loss (CWL) is the primary avenue of water loss at thermoneutral temperatures, and increases slightly as ambient temperature increases, indicating a change in the permeability of the skin. In the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of skin, lipids arranged in layers called lamellae serve as the primary barrier to CWL in birds. The permeability of these lamellae depends in large part on the ability of lipid molecules to pack closely together in an ordered orthorhombic phase state. However, as temperature increases, lipids of the SC become more disordered, and may pack in more permeable hexagonal or liquid crystalline phase states. In this study, we used Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy to monitor the phase state of lipids in the SC of house sparrows (Passer domesticus) at skin temperatures ranging from 25 to 50°C. As temperature increased, lipids became slightly more disordered, but remained predominantly in the orthorhombic phase, consistent with the small increase in CWL observed in house sparrows as ambient temperature increases. These results differ considerably from studies on mammalian SC, which find a predominantly hexagonal arrangement of lipids at temperatures above 37°C, and the increased order in avian SC may be explained by longer lipid chain length, scarcity of cholesterol, and the presence of cerebrosides. Our results lend further insight into the arrangement and packing of individual lipid molecules in avian SC.

Skin hydration: interplay between molecular dynamics, structure and water uptake in the stratum corneum

Hydration is a key aspect of the skin that influences its physical and mechanical properties. Here, we investigate the interplay between molecular and macroscopic properties of the outer skin layer - the stratum corneum (SC) and how this varies with hydration. It is shown that hydration leads to changes in the molecular arrangement of the peptides in the keratin filaments as well as dynamics of C-H bond reorientation of amino acids in the protruding terminals of keratin protein within the SC. The changes in molecular structure and dynamics occur at a threshold hydration corresponding to ca. 85% relative humidity (RH). The abrupt changes in SC molecular properties coincide with changes in SC macroscopic swelling properties as well as mechanical properties in the SC. The flexible terminals at the solid keratin filaments can be compared to flexible polymer brushes in colloidal systems, creating long-range repulsion and extensive swelling in water. We further show that the addition of urea to the SC at reduced RH leads to similar molecular and macroscopic responses as the increase in RH for SC without urea. The findings provide new molecular insights to deepen the understanding of how intermediate filament organization responds to changes in the surrounding environment.

Transdermal Permeation of Drugs in Various Animal Species

Excised human skin is utilized for in vitro permeation experiments to evaluate the safety and effect of topically-applied drugs by measuring its skin permeation and concentration. However, ethical considerations are the major problem for using human skin to evaluate percutaneous absorption. Moreover, large variations have been found among human skin specimens as a result of differences in age, race, and anatomical donor site. Animal skins are used to predict the in vivo human penetration/permeation of topically-applied chemicals. In the present review, skin characteristics, such as thickness of skin, lipid content, hair follicle density, and enzyme activity in each model are compared to human skin. In addition, intra- and inter-individual variation in animal models, permeation parameter correlation between animal models and human skin, and utilization of cultured human skin models are also descried. Pig, guinea pig, and hairless rat are generally selected for this purpose. Each animal model has advantages and weaknesses for utilization in in vitro skin permeation experiments. Understanding of skin permeation characteristics such as permeability coefficient (P), diffusivity (D), and partition coefficient (K) for each skin model would be necessary to obtain better correlations for animal models to human skin permeation.

A depth-dependent profile of the lipid conformation and lateral packing order of the stratum corneum in vivo measured using Raman microscopy

The intercellular lipid structure of the stratum corneum (SC) plays a key role in skin barrier function. A depth profile of the intercellular lipid conformation and the lipid lateral packing order were measured in vivo in the human SC using confocal Raman microscopy. The depth profiles of the 2880 cm(-1)/2850 cm(-1) peak ratio intensity, which represent the C-H stretching and lateral packing order of lipids, and the 1080 cm(-1)/(1130 cm(-1) + 1060 cm(-1)) peak ratio, which represents the C-C skeleton vibration and trans-gauche conformation order of lipids, were investigated. The influence of keratin on the lipid peaks at 2850 cm(-1) and 2880 cm(-1) was excluded by the developed mathematical algorithm. The results show that the trans-conformation and lateral packing order of the intercellular lipids reach their maximum value in the SC at 20-40% of its depth and then decrease towards the stratum granulosum. These results show that at a depth of 20-40% (normally corresponding to a depth of 4-8 μm) the SC exhibits the most ordered lipids and therefore the highest skin barrier function. The lateral packing of lipids is more disordered on the surface and in the deeper parts of the SC, which may be associated with a reduced skin barrier function.

Skin models for the testing of transdermal drugs

The assessment of percutaneous permeation of molecules is a key step in the evaluation of dermal or transdermal delivery systems. If the drugs are intended for delivery to humans, the most appropriate setting in which to do the assessment is the in vivo human. However, this may not be possible for ethical, practical, or economic reasons, particularly in the early phases of development. It is thus necessary to find alternative methods using accessible and reproducible surrogates for in vivo human skin. A range of models has been developed, including ex vivo human skin, usually obtained from cadavers or plastic surgery patients, ex vivo animal skin, and artificial or reconstructed skin models. Increasingly, largely driven by regulatory authorities and industry, there is a focus on developing standardized techniques and protocols. With this comes the need to demonstrate that the surrogate models produce results that correlate with those from in vivo human studies and that they can be used to show bioequivalence of different topical products. This review discusses the alternative skin models that have been developed as surrogates for normal and diseased skin and examines the concepts of using model systems for in vitro–in vivo correlation and the demonstration of bioequivalence.

In vitro models to estimate drug penetration through the compromised stratum corneum barrier

OBJECTIVES

The phospholipid vesicle-based permeation assay (PVPA) is a recently established in vitro stratum corneum model to estimate the permeability of intact and healthy skin. The aim here was to further evolve this model to mimic the stratum corneum in a compromised skin barrier by reducing the barrier functions in a controlled manner.

METHODS

To mimic compromised skin barriers, PVPA barriers were prepared with explicitly defined reduced barrier function and compared with literature data from both human and animal skin with compromised barrier properties. Caffeine, diclofenac sodium, chloramphenicol and the hydrophilic marker calcein were tested to compare the PVPA models with established models.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS

The established PVPA models mimicking the stratum corneum in healthy skin showed good correlation with biological barriers by ranking drugs similar to those ranked by the pig ear skin model and were comparable to literature data on permeation through healthy human skin. The PVPA models provided reproducible and consistent results with a distinction between the barriers mimicking compromised and healthy skin. The trends in increasing drug permeation with an increasing degree of compromised barriers for the model drugs were similar to the literature data from other in vivo and in vitro models.

CONCLUSIONS

The PVPA models have the potential to provide permeation predictions when investigating drugs or cosmeceuticals intended for various compromised skin conditions and can thus possibly reduce the time and cost of testing as well as the use of animal testing in the early development of drug candidates, drugs and cosmeceuticals.

Impact of Cosmetic Lotions on Nanoparticle Penetration through ex vivo C57BL/6 Hairless Mouse and Human Skin: A Comparison Study

Understanding the interactions of nanoparticles (NPs) with skin is important from a consumer and occupational health and safety perspective, as well as for the design of effective NP-based transdermal therapeutics. Despite intense efforts to elucidate the conditions that permit NP penetration, there remains a lack of translatable results from animal models to human skin. The objectives of this study are to investigate the impact of common skin lotions on NP penetration and to quantify penetration differences of quantum dot (QD) NPs between freshly excised human and mouse skin. QDs were mixed in 7 different vehicles, including 5 commercial skin lotions. These were topically applied to skin using two exposure methods; a petri dish protocol and a Franz diffusion cell protocol. QD presence in the skin was quantified using Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy. Results show that the commercial vehicles can significantly impact QD penetration in both mouse and human skin. Lotions that contain alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA) facilitated NP penetration. Lower QD signal was observed in skin studied using a Franz cell. Freshly excised human skin was also studied immediately after the sub-cutaneous fat removal process, then after 24 hours rest ex vivo. Resting human skin 24 hours prior to QD exposure significantly reduced epidermal presence. This study exemplifies how application vehicles, skin processing and the exposure protocol can affect QD penetration results and the conclusions that maybe drawn between skin models.

Animal models for cutaneous vaccine delivery

Main challenges in skin vaccination are overcoming the stratum corneum (SC) barrier and targeting the antigen presenting cells (APC) in the epidermis and the dermis. For this purpose many delivery techniques are being developed. In vivo immunogenicity and safety studies in animals are mandatory before moving to clinical trials. However, the results obtained in animals may or may not be predictive for humans. Knowledge about differences and similarities in skin architecture and immunology within a species and between species is crucial. In this review, we discuss variables, including skin morphology, skin barrier function, mechanical properties, site of application and immunology, which should be taken into account when designing animal studies for vaccination via the skin in order to support the translation to clinical trial outcomes.

The physical chemistry of the stratum corneum lipids

This article summarizes the current knowledge of the composition, self-assembly, and molecular organization of the stratum corneum (SC) lipids, reviews the evidence connecting these parameters and the barrier properties of human skin, and outlines the immediate issues in the field of SC lipid research.

Skin diseases associated with the depletion of stratum corneum lipids and stratum corneum lipid substitution therapy

The skin is the largest organ of the body, whose main function is to protect the body against the loss of physiologically important components as well as harmful environmental insults. From the inside to the outside, the skin comprises three major structural layers: the hypodermis, the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermis contains four different sublayers, the stratum corneum (SC), stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale, where the barrier function of the skin mainly lies in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the SC. The SC contains corneocytes that are embedded in a lipid matrix existing in the form of lipid bilayers. The lipid bilayers are formed mainly from ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol, constitute the only continuous pathway across the SC and are responsible for the barrier function of the skin. However, the depletion or disturbance of SC lipids in the SC leads to a perturbation of the barrier function of the skin, and, conversely, several skin diseases such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are associated with the depletion of these SC lipids. Therefore, it is of paramount importance to understand the interrelationship between the depletion of SC lipids and skin diseases as well as factors that affect the composition and organization of SC lipids in order to assess the potential benefit of a direct replacement of the missing SC lipids as a means of treating affected, aged or diseased skin.

The effect of the chain length distribution of free fatty acids on the mixing properties of stratum corneum model membranes

The stratum corneum (SC) plays a fundamental role in the barrier function of the skin. The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. The main lipid classes in the lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The aim of this study was to examine the effect of the chain length of FFAs on the thermotropic phase behavior and mixing properties of SC lipids. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and Raman imaging spectroscopy were used to study the mixing properties using either protonated or deuterated FFAs. We selected SC model lipid mixtures containing only a single CER, CHOL and either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs mimicking the FFA SC composition. The single CER consists of a sphingoid base with 18 carbon atoms and an acyl chain with a chain length of 24 carbon atoms. When using lignoceric acid (24 carbon atoms) or a mixture of FFAs, the CER and FFAs participated in mixed crystals, but hydration of the mixtures induced a slight phase separation between CER and FFA. The mixed crystalline structures did not phase separate during storage even up to a time period of 3months. When using palmitic acid (16 carbon atoms), a slight phase separation was observed between FFA and CER. This phase separation was clearly enhanced during hydration and storage. In conclusion, the thermotropic phase behavior and the mixing properties of the SC lipid mixtures were shown to strongly depend on the chain length and chain length distribution of FFAs, while hydration enhanced the phase separation.