Photostability evaluation of five UV-filters, trans-resveratrol and beta-carotene in sunscreens

Evaluation of the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of an avobenzone derivative

Solar radiation can cause damage to the skin, and the use of sunscreens is one of the main protective measures. However, photounstable ultraviolet (UV) filters can generate photoproducts and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Adding antioxidants, such as resveratrol, to enhance the action of UV filters in sunscreens is an interesting strategy for reducing the damage caused by UV radiation exposure. However, new compounds must have their stability, safety and efficacy guaranteed. Avobenzone, a commonly used UV filter, stands out as a promising candidate for structural modification to enhance its stability. Its molecular hybridization with other UV filters and antioxidants can lead to safer and more effective compounds. In this study, the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of a derivative of avobenzone, hybridized with resveratrol's molecule, was evaluated using in vitro models of cells in monolayer and reconstructed human skin (RHS). Phototoxic potential was assessed using fibroblasts, while the antioxidant activity was measured using the DCFH2-DA probe in HaCaT keratinocytes and in-house RHS. The derivative exhibited UV absorption and demonstrated photostability. It did not exhibit any phototoxic nor photoreactivity potential. Additionally, it was able to photo stabilize a combination of photounstable UV filters, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate, and to reduce their phototoxic potential. In terms of antioxidant activity, the derivative successfully protected against UVA-induced ROS production in the HaCaT keratinocytes model, showing statistical equivalence to the antioxidant control, quercetin (10 μg/mL). Furthermore, experiments conducted in the RHS model demonstrated a significant reduction of 30.7% in ROS generation compared to the irradiated control. This study demonstrated that structural modifications of avobenzone can lead to the development of a broad spectrum (absorbing UVB and UVA II radiation, as well as a portion of the UVA I radiation), non-phototoxic, non-photoreactive and photostable derivative for sunscreen and anti-aging formulations. This derivative enhances protection against oxidative stress induced by UV radiation and improves the effectiveness of sun protection. In addition to the monolayer model, the use of a standardized in-house RHS model was highly relevant for evaluating the effects of UV radiation and skin aging. This model closely mimics human physiological conditions and enables the testing of new compounds and the investigation of protective mechanisms against skin damage.

Molecular beam laser spectroscopic studies of the photoactive properties of resveratrol

Resonance Enhanced MultiPhoton Ionization spectroscopic techniques coupled with laser desorption and supersonic cooling have been employed to elucidate the photoactive properties of resveratrol. The observed excitation spectra give evidence for an internal-energy dependent trans-cis isomerisation pathway in the electronically excited state, while pump-probe studies show dynamics that are in line with what is known for the parent compound, trans-stilbene. Similar studies have been performed on a derivative of resveratrol with methoxy instead of hydroxy groups, a compound aimed to reduce previously observed photodegradation pathways of resveratrol. Time-resolved studies of the latter compound under solution conditions have given further insight into its excited-state dynamics and support the isolated-molecule conclusions on the topology of the potential energy surface of the electronically excited state. Spectroscopic studies under prolonged irradiation conditions show that both compounds suffer from photodegradation, although in the alkylated compound other pathways appear to be involved than in resveratrol.

Status quo on identified transformation products of organic ultraviolet filters and their persistence

Organic micropollutants of concern-including organic UV filters (UVF)-are getting increasing attention. Personal care products such as sunscreens or cosmetic articles often contain large quantities of UVF. These substances enter the environment either directly (during outdoor activities) or indirectly (via sewages from households). Therefore, the removal or degradation of UVF by natural or technical treatment processes is important to understand. UVF are often incompletely removed and transformed to side products of incomplete mineralization by abiotic and biotic processes. An extensive overview on transformation products (TPs) is essential to systematically identify knowledge gaps and to derive research needs. While there are many reviews on the UVF themselves, the number of reviews which focus on their TPs is limited. Consequently, this review gives an overview on the latest findings regarding TPs of UVF. In this publication, known TPs of UVF, which were formed during abiotic and biotic processes, are reviewed. Target substances were defined and a literature database was reviewed for studies on TPs of the target substances. The first list of studies was shortened stepwise, thus generating a final list of studies which contained only the relevant studies. Since biodegradation is one of the most important pathways for removal of organic compounds from the environment, this review presents an overview on known TPs of organic UVF and their biodegradability, which determines their environmental fate. In this way, all identified TPs of UVF were listed and checked for information on their biodegradability. A total of 2731 records of studies were assessed. Forty-two studies, which assessed 46 processes that lead to the formation of identified TPs, were included in this review. One hundred and seventyseven different TPs resulting from 11 different UVF were identified. Little to no data on the biodegradability was found for TPs. This indicates a severe lack of data on the biodegradability of TPs of organic UVF substances. Since most TPs lack information on biodegradability, further research should provide information on both-identity and biodegradability-of formed TPs to be able to assess their hazardousness for the environment.

Effect of Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents on trans-Resveratrol Photo-Chemical Induced Isomerization and 2,4,6-Trihydroxyphenanthrene Electro-Cyclic Formation

trans-Resveratrol is a natural bioactive compound with well-recognized health promoting effects. When exposed to UV light, this compound can undergo a photochemically induced trans/cis isomerization and a 6π electrochemical cyclization with the subsequent formation of 2,4,6-trihydroxyphenanthrene (THP). THP is a potentially harmful compound which can exert genotoxic effects. In this work we improved the chromatographic separation and determination of the two resveratrol isomers and of THP by using a non-commercial pentafluorophenyl stationary phase. We assessed the effect of natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) as possible photo-protective agents by evaluating cis-resveratrol isomer and THP formation under different UV-light exposure conditions with the aim of enhancing resveratrol photostability and inhibiting THP production. Our results demonstrate a marked photoprotective effect exerted by glycerol-containing NaDES, and in particular by proline/glycerol NaDES, which exerts a strong inhibitory effect on the photochemical isomerization of resveratrol and significantly limits the formation of the toxic derivative THP. Considering the presence of resveratrol in various commercial products, these results are of note in view of the potential genotoxic risk associated with its photochemical degradation products and in view of the need for the development of green, eco-sustainable and biocompatible resveratrol photo-stable formulations.

Stability and Removal of Benzophenone-Type UV Filters from Water Matrices by Advanced Oxidation Processes

Benzophenone (BP) type UV filters are common environmental contaminants that are posing a growing health concern due to their increasing presence in water. Different studies have evidenced the presence of benzophenones (BP, BP-1, BP-2, BP-3, BP-4, BP-9, HPB) in several environmental matrices, indicating that conventional technologies of water treatment are not able to remove them. It has also been reported that these compounds could be associated with endocrine-disrupting activities, genotoxicity, and reproductive toxicity. This review focuses on the degradation kinetics and mechanisms of benzophenone-type UV filters and their degradation products (DPs) under UV and solar irradiation and in UV-based advanced oxidation processes (AOPs) such as UV/H₂O₂, UV/persulfate, and the Fenton process. The effects of various operating parameters, such as UV irradiation including initial concentrations of H₂O₂, persulfate, and Fe²⁺, on the degradation of tested benzophenones from aqueous matrices, and conditions that allow higher degradation rates to be achieved are presented. Application of nanoparticles such as TiO₂, PbO/TiO₂, and Sb₂O₃/TiO₂ for the photocatalytic degradation of benzophenone-type UV filters was included in this review.

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.

Analyzing the Photoprotection Efficiency of Sunscreens Containing Antioxidants under Disinfection Conditions

Sunscreens ensure thorough protection against sunburn. The delivery of UV filters into the stratum corneum and viable epidermis could be reduced by the use of antioxidants (such as β-carotene and trans-resveratrol, alone or combined). The presence/absence of antioxidants (trans-resveratrol and β-carotene) in formulations containing benzophenone-3 (UV-filter) and their efficiency under disinfection and neutral conditions are studied and compared. The trial was conducted on 38 people. The prepared ointments were applied to the participants’ forearms, irradiated and monitored by reflectance colorimetry after 0, 4, 6, and 8 min. Descriptive statistics were used to describe the skin color’s main characteristics and the F-ratio was used to test overall differences. The ointments containing antioxidants and benzophenone-3 were the most efficient, followed by those with benzophenone-3 alone. It was proven that photoprotection with benzophenone-3 is still effective, despite the formation of its chlorinated products. Due to the short time of exposure to disinfecting conditions, it could be assumed that benzophenone-3 was only partially chlorinated. This clinical study demonstrated that formulations containing antioxidants are likely to be more suitable for protecting skin against UVB irradiation than a UV filter alone.

(+)-Usnic Acid as a Promising Candidate for a Safe and Stable Topical Photoprotective Agent

The study aimed to examine whether usnic acid—a lichen compound with UV-absorbing properties—can be considered as a prospective photoprotective agent in cosmetic products. Moreover, a comparison of two usnic acid enantiomers was performed to preselect the more effective compound. To meet this aim, an in vitro model was created, comprising the determination of skin-penetrating properties via skin-PAMPA assay, safety assessment to normal human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts), and examination of photostability and photoprotective properties. Both enantiomers revealed comparable good skin-penetrating properties. Left-handed usnic acid was slightly more toxic to keratinocytes (IC₅₀ 80.82 and 40.12 µg/mL, after 48 and 72 h, respectively) than its right-handed counterpart. The latter enantiomer, in a cosmetic formulation, was characterized by good photoprotective properties and photostability, comparable to the UV filter octocrylene. Perhaps most interestingly, (+)-usnic acid combined with octocrylene in one formulation revealed enhanced photoprotection and photostability. Thus, the strategy can be considered for the potential use of (+)-usnic acid as a UV filter in cosmetic products. Moreover, the proposed model may be useful for the evaluation of candidates for UV filters.

Awareness of pharmacists and consumers towards protective effects of sunscreens against skin cancer

The objective of the present study was to assess the awareness level of individuals on the use of sunscreen products, and pharmacists' perception of sunscreen safety. A cross-sectional, descriptive study was conducted in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). Participants involved included 224 female undergraduates of Ajman University (aged 18-25 years old), 234 patients visiting numerous pharmacies, and 58 pharmacists from the private sector in Dubai. Questionnaires were designed and distributed to all participants. Data entry and analysis were performed using SPSS (Statistical Program for Social Sciences) version 20. Among female undergraduate students, 94.7% used sun protection, 81.1% understood what is meant by SPF (Sun Protection Factor) Value, and 70.2% used the optimal SPF (15-20). Additionally, 95.2% reported that sunscreens do not have any side effects. Out of the 234 patients who participated in the study, 86.8% used sun protection, 56.8% understood what is meant by SPF, and 43.2% used the optimal SPF. Furthermore, 93.2% stated that sunscreens do not have any side effects. Female patients were found to use sunscreens with higher SPF values (above 50) as compared to male patients (P ≤ 0.024). Patients above the age of 40 also used sunscreens with high SPF (P ≤ 0.001). As for pharmacists, they all agreed that sunscreens have a marked safety profile, with no side effects, and that the optimal SPF for use is 15-20. Most pharmacists (80%) reported that consumers are in fact aware and knowledgeable about the proper use and application of sunscreens. Optimal use of routine sunscreen is of paramount importance to prevent skin damage as well as cancer.

An Overview on Topical Administration of Carotenoids and Coenzyme Q10 Loaded in Lipid Nanoparticles

Carotenoids and coenzyme Q10 are naturally occurring antioxidant compounds that are also found in human skin. These bioactive compounds have been the focus of considerable research due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective properties. In this review, the current state of the art in the encapsulation of carotenoids and coenzyme Q10 in lipid nanoparticles to improve their bioavailability, chemical stability, and skin absorption is discussed. Additionally, the main findings are highlighted on the cytotoxic and photoprotective effects of these systems in the skin.

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane: Toxicological effects on marine biota and human concerns

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) (CAS number: 5466-77-3) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM) (CAS number: 70356-09-1) are important sunscreens. However, frequent application of large amounts of these compounds may reflect serious environmental impact, once it enters the environment through indirect release via wastewater treatment or immediate release during water activities. In this article, we reviewed the toxicological effects of EHMC and BMDM on aquatic ecosystems and the human consequences. According to the literature, EHMC and BMDM have been detected in water samples and sediments worldwide. Consequently, these compounds are also present in several marine organisms like fish, invertebrates, coral reefs, marine mammals, and other species, due to its bioaccumulation potential. Studies show that these chemicals are capable of damaging the aquatic beings in different ways. Further, bioaccumulation studies have shown that EHMC biomagnifies through trophic levels, which makes human seafood consumption a concern because the higher position in the trophic chain, the more elevate levels of ultraviolet (UV) filters are detected, and it is established that EHMC present adverse effects on the human organism. In contrast, there are no studies on the BMDM bioaccumulation and biomagnification potential. Different strategies can be adopted to avoid the damage caused by sunscreens in the environment and human organism. Two of them include the use of natural photoprotectors, such as polyphenols, in association with UV filters in sunscreens and the development of new and safer UV filters. Overall, this review shows the importance of studying the impacts of sunscreens in nature and developing safer sunscreens and formulations to safeguard marine fauna, ecosystems, and humans.

In Vitro Evaluation of the Photoprotective Potential of Quinolinic Alkaloids Isolated from the Antarctic Marine Fungus Penicillium echinulatum for Topical Use

Marine-derived fungi proved to be a rich source of biologically active compounds. The genus Penicillium has been extensively studied regarding their secondary metabolites and biological applications. However, the photoprotective effects of these metabolites remain underexplored. Herein, the photoprotective potential of Penicillium echinulatum, an Antarctic alga-associated fungus, was assessed by UV absorption, photostability study, and protection from UVA-induced ROS generation assay on human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and reconstructed human skin (RHS). The photosafety was evaluated by the photoreactivity (OECD TG 495) and phototoxicity assays, performed by 3T3 neutral red uptake (3T3 NRU PT, OECD TG 432) and by the RHS model. Through a bio-guided purification approach, four known alkaloids, (-)-cyclopenin (1), dehydrocyclopeptine (2), viridicatin (3), and viridicatol (4), were isolated. Compounds 3 and 4 presented absorption in UVB and UVA-II regions and were considered photostable after UVA irradiation. Despite compounds 3 and 4 showed phototoxic potential in 3T3 NRU PT, no phototoxicity was observed in the RHS model (reduction of cell viability < 30%), which indicates their very low acute photoirritation and high photosafety potential in humans. Viridicatin was considered weakly photoreactive, while viridicatol showed no photoreactivity; both compounds inhibited UVA-induced ROS generation in HaCaT cells, although viridicatol was not able to protect the RHS model against UVA-induced ROS production. Thus, the results highlighted the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of metabolites produced by P. echinulatum which can be considered a new class of molecules for photoprotection, since their photosafety and non-cytotoxicity were predicted using recommended in vitro methods for topical use.

Sunscreens Containing Cyclodextrin Inclusion Complexes for Enhanced Efficiency: A Strategy for Skin Cancer Prevention

Unprotected exposure of skin to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) may damage the DNA of skin cells and can lead to skin cancer. Sunscreens are topical formulations used to protect skin against UVR. The active ingredients of sunscreens are UV filters that absorb, scatter, and/or reflect UVR. Preventing the formation of free radicals and repairing DNA damages, natural antioxidants are also added to sunscreens as a second fold of protection against UVR. Antioxidants can help stabilise these formulations during the manufacturing process and upon application on skin. However, UV filters and antioxidants are both susceptible to degradation upon exposure to sunlight and oxygen. Additionally, due to their poor water solubility, natural antioxidants are challenging to formulate and exhibit limited penetration and bioavailability in the site of action (i.e., deeper skin layers). Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides that are capable of forming inclusion complexes with poorly soluble drugs, such as antioxidants. In this review, we discuss the use of CDs inclusion complexes to enhance the aqueous solubility of antioxidants and chemical UV filters and provide a protective shield against degradative factors. The role of CDs in providing a controlled drug release profile from sunscreens is also discussed. Finally, incorporating CDs inclusion complexes into sunscreens has the potential to increase their efficiency and hence improve their skin cancer prevention.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320 nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400 nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.

Fucoxanthin for Topical Administration, a Phototoxic vs. Photoprotective Potential in a Tiered Strategy Assessed by In Vitro Methods

Fucoxanthin possesses a well-described antioxidant activity that might be useful for human skin photoprotection. However, there is a lack of scientific information regarding its properties when applied onto human skin. Thus, the objective of the present study was to assess the photoprotective and phototoxicity potential of fucoxanthin based on its ultraviolet (UVB 280–320 nm; UVA 320–400 nm) and visible (VIS 400–700 nm) absorption, photostability, phototoxicity in 3T3 mouse fibroblast culture vs. full-thickness reconstructed human skin (RHS), and its ability to inhibit reactive oxygen species formation that is induced by UVA on HaCaT keratinocytes. Later, we evaluated the antioxidant properties of the sunscreen formulation plus 0.5% fucoxanthin onto RHS to confirm its bioavailability and antioxidant potential through the skin layers. The compound was isolated from the alga Desmarestia anceps. Fucoxanthin, despite presenting chemical photo-instability (dose 6 J/cm²: 35% UVA and 21% VIS absorbance reduction), showed acceptable photodegradation (dose 27.5 J/cm²: 5.8% UVB and 12.5% UVA absorbance reduction) when it was added to a sunscreen at 0.5% (w/v). In addition, it increased by 72% of the total sunscreen UV absorption spectra, presenting UV-booster properties. Fucoxanthin presented phototoxic potential in 3T3 fibroblasts (mean photo effect 0.917), but it was non-phototoxic in the RHS model due to barrier function that was provided by the stratum corneum. In addition, it showed a significant inhibition of ROS formation at 0.01% (p < 0.001), in HaCat, and in a sunscreen at 0.5% (w/v) (p < 0.001), in RHS. In conclusion, in vitro results showed fucoxanthin protective potential to the skin that might contribute to improving the photoprotective potential of sunscreens in vivo.

Simultaneous nanoencapsulation of lipoic acid and resveratrol with improved antioxidant properties for the skin

Cutaneous aging is intimately related to redox imbalance, which is mainly caused by ultraviolet radiation exposure. The aim of the present investigation was to develop lipid-core nanocapsules for the co-nanoencapsulation of resveratrol and lipoic acid aiming to improve the chemical stability and photostability of the compounds, as well as their antioxidant properties. Lipid-core nanocapsules were developed and characterized according to their mean size, size distribution, zeta potential, pH value, drug content, encapsulation efficiency, release profile, stability under storage, photostability and skin permeation profile. In vitro antioxidant activity was analyzed by lipid peroxidation method and the in vitro cytotoxicity by MTT assay and cellular count, using BALB/c-3T3 fibroblasts. It was possible to co-nanoencapsulate resveratrol and lipoic acid into particles of average diameter close to 200 nm, low polydispersity index and encapsulation efficiencies around 90 %. Nanoencapsulation increased the substances stability under storage and photostability under UVA light exposure, besides controlling substances release. The actives were able to permeate a skin model membrane when nanoencapsulated, with a faster permeation of lipoic acid. The antioxidant activity was potentiated by the co-nanoencapsulation of resveratrol and lipoic acid, without signs of cytotoxicity to fibroblasts. Therefore, the co-nanoencapsulation of resveratrol and lipoic acid is promising for application in topical formulations aiming antioxidant effects.

Materials Science Challenges in Skin UV Protection: A Review

UV radiation is one of the critical environmental stress factors for human skin, which can trigger various problems such as pruritus, burning, erythema, premature skin aging and skin cancer. Hence, UV protection has become an indispensable daily routine and the use of topical sunscreen products is rapidly increasing. However, there are emerging concerns over the efficiency and safety of existing chemical and physical UV filters used in consumer products. Furthermore, there is no universally approved method for assessing sun protection efficiency regardless of the immediate end user need to develop safer sunscreen products that afford broad-spectrum photoprotection. It is evident that the current organic and inorganic UV filters have significant unfavorable impacts on human, environmental, and marine safety. Therefore, effective alternative UV filters should be established. This article comprehensively reviews the properties, safety, health and ecological concerns of various UV filters including TiO₂ and ZnO nanoparticles as well as the limitations of the testing protocols and guidelines provided by major regulatory bodies. The photoreactivity of UV filters used in sunscreen remains a major challenge, and it is crucial to develop new sunscreen ingredients, which not only protect the consumer, but also the environment.

Systemic availability of lipophilic organic UV filters through dermal sunscreen exposure

BACKGROUND

Chemical UV filters are common components in sunscreens and cosmetic products and used to protect the skin against harmful effects of sunlight like sunburn. However, the effectiveness of sunscreens in the prevention of skin cancer is in some parts still controversial. Meanwhile, questions about negative effects of the chemical UV filters on human health arise and request an effective risk assessment. Real-life exposure data in humans after application of these products are still rare. Thus, we explored whether and to what extent UV filters are absorbed through the skin into the human body.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Plasma and urine samples from 20 healthy volunteers were collected before, during and after a real-life exposure scenario (1st application: 2 mg/cm²; 2nd and 3rd (after 2 and 4 h): 1 mg/cm² each) using a commercial sunscreen formulation for one day. These samples were analyzed for their content of the currently prominent UV filters octocrylene and avobenzone as well as 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid (CDAA) as the main octocrylene metabolite by using different liquid chromatography electrospray-ionization tandem mass spectrometric procedures.

RESULTS

Following dermal sunscreen exposure, avobenzone, octocrylene and CDAA reached concentrations up to 11 μg/L, 25 μg/L and 1352 μg/L in plasma. In urine detection rates of avobenzone and octocrylene were low while CDAA showed a high detection rate and reached up to 5207 μg/g creatinine. Kinetic models could be fitted for octocrylene and CDAA in plasma and CDAA in urine. Concentration peaks were reached between 10 and 16 h after first application and half-life periods were in the range of 1.5 to 2 days. The lipophilic UV filter octocrylene and its metabolite CDAA showed a much slower elimination than other more hydrophilic UV filters. Concordantly, the metabolite CDAA in particular showed a markedly increased renal excretion over the whole sampling period and indicated high internal exposure to OC.

DISCUSSION

Real-life sunscreen usage leads to considerable bioavailability of organic UV filters and their metabolites which is rarely seen for other environmental exposures. A combined monitoring of the parent compound and its metabolites is important to fully address internal exposure to the UV filter in humans. Considering the kinetic profiles a prolonged systemic release due to depot formation in skin and a potential accumulation through multi-day exposure is presumed. High in-vivo loads call for a critical toxicological assessment of the UV filters and their metabolites.

Gas Chromatographic-Mass Spectrometric Method for the Simultaneous Determination of Resveratrol Isomers and 2,4,6-Trihydroxyphenanthrene in Red Wines Exposed to UV-Light

Resveratrol (3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene) is one of the most abundant polyphenols in red grapes, and red wine represents one of the most important dietary sources of this compound. Although its beneficial properties on human health have been widely investigated over the last 30 years, very little is known about its derivatives. Resveratrol can indeed undergo glycosylation, oligomerization and, upon UV-light exposure, it can isomerize from the trans-to the cis-isomer, which can further cyclize to 2,4,6-trihydroxyphenanthrene (THP). Although the effects of THP on human health are not yet known, being a polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon, it can be potentially harmful. Because no data about THP occurrence in plant food and beverages are available, a simple procedure based on liquid-liquid extraction and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry has been developed and validated for the simultaneous qualitative and quantitative analysis of trans-resveratrol, cis-resveratrol, and THP in red wine, before and after UV-light exposure.

Chemical Characterization and Biotechnological Applicability of Pigments Isolated from Antarctic Bacteria

Considering the global trend in the search for alternative natural compounds with antioxidant and sun protection factor (SPF) boosting properties, bacterial carotenoids represent an opportunity for exploring pigments of natural origin which possess high antioxidant activity, lower toxicity, no residues, and no environmental risk and are readily decomposable. In this work, three pigmented bacteria from the Antarctic continent, named Arthrobacter agilis 50cyt, Zobellia laminarie 465, and Arthrobacter psychrochitiniphilus 366, were able to withstand UV-B and UV-C radiation. The pigments were extracted and tested for UV absorption, antioxidant capacity, photostability, and phototoxicity profile in murine fibroblasts (3T3 NRU PT-OECD TG 432) to evaluate their further potential use as UV filters. Furthermore, the pigments were identified by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-photodiode array detector-mass spectrometry (UPLC-PDA-MS/MS). The results showed that all pigments presented a very high antioxidant activity and good stability under exposure to UV light. However, except for a fraction of the A. agilis 50cyt pigment, they were shown to be phototoxic. A total of 18 different carotenoids were identified from 23 that were separated on a C18 column. The C50 carotenes bacterioruberin and decaprenoxanthin (including its variations) were confirmed for A. agilis 50cyt and A. psychrochitiniphilus 366, respectively. All-trans-bacterioruberin was identified as the pigment that did not express phototoxic activity in the 3T3 NRU PT assay (MPE < 0.1). Zeaxanthin, β-cryptoxanthin, β-carotene, and phytoene were detected in Z. laminarie 465. In conclusion, carotenoids identified in this work from Antarctic bacteria open perspectives for their further biotechnological application towards a more sustainable and environmentally friendly way of pigment exploitation.

Implications of grape extract and its nanoformulated bioactive agent resveratrol against skin disorders

The grape seed extract (GSE) and its main active polyphenol, resveratrol (RES), have shown considerable antioxidant activities, besides possessed protective and therapeutic effects against various skin complications. This paper discusses the favorable effects of RES, GSE and their nanoformulations for dermatological approaches, with specific emphasis on clinical interventions. In this manner, electronic databases including PubMed, Science Direct and Google Scholar were searched. Data were collected from 1980 up to February 2019. The search terms included "Vitis vinifera", "grape", "resveratrol", "skin", "dermatology", and "nanoformulation". To increase the skin permeability of GSE and RES, several innovative nanoformulation such as liposomes, niosomes, solid-lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, and lipid-core nanocapsule has been evaluated. According to our extensive searches, both RES and GSE have beneficial impacts on skin disorders such as chloasma, acne vulgaris, skin aging, as well as wound and facial redness. More clinical studies with nanoformulation approaches are recommended to achieve conclusive outcomes regarding the efficacy of RES and GSE in the management of skin diseases.

Photoprotection assessment of olive (Olea europaea L.) leaves extract standardized to oleuropein: In vitro and in silico approach for improved sunscreens

Olive leaves contain higher amount of polyphenols than olive oil and represent a waste product from olive harvest and pruning of olive trees. The most abundant compound in olive leaves is oleuropein. Benefits of the topical application of olive leaves extract were previously reported, but little information is available on its photoprotective potential and the result of the association of this extract with organic UV filters in topical sunscreen formulations. The olive leaves extract photoprotective potential is less explored for both oral and topical photoprotection in comparison with other plants extracts and polyphenols, such as Polypodium leucotomos extract and resveratrol. There are increasing efforts towards developing more efficient sunscreens and a photoprotection assessement along with a better understanding of the photochemistry of naturally occurring sunscreens could aid the design of new and improved commercial sunscreen formulations. This study was designed to investigate the photoprotective potential of olive leaves extract standardized for oleuropein performing a set of in vitro and in silico tools as an innovative approach, highlighting yeast assays, in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and molecular modelling studies of UV absorption. This study supports the use of olive leaves extract for photoprotection, as an effective photoprotective, anti-mutagenic and antioxidant active, also showing a synergistic effect in association with UV filters with an improvement on in vitro SPF of sunscreen formulations.

Exposure to the UV Filter Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate in the Postnatal Period Induces Thyroid Dysregulation and Perturbs the Immune System of Mice

Evidence demonstrates the bidirectional communication and regulation between the neuroendocrine and immune systems. Thyroid hormones play key roles in nervous system development and can exert influence on various immune cells contributing to pathophysiological conditions. Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is one of the most commonly used UV filters, and in vitro and in vivo studies have found thyroid disrupting effects. The present study assessed whether OMC administration in mice dams during the lactational period can cause thyroid disruption and generate immunologic alterations in the offspring. Indirect exposure to the OMC (1,000 mg/kg) in the lactational period affected neurodevelopment parameters, such as delayed eye-opening and weight gain in mice of both sexes, and these alterations are corroborated by the decrease in the T4 levels present in the pups' blood. No significant changes were observed in the thymus of these pups, but the number of lymphocytes increased in the spleen of the animals exposed to OMC, similar to the animals treated with propyl-thiouracil (PTU), a well-known thyroid disruptor. OMC modulated the percentage of leukocyte populations in peripheral blood, and the number of circulating polymorphonuclear cells increased two-fold. In vitro, OMC exhibited an inhibitory effect on splenocyte proliferation and IL-2 production induced by anti-CD3 antibody; however, this effect was reversed with the addition of T4 in the cell culture. In summary, the results of the present study demonstrate the influence of OMC on thyroid dysregulation and its impact on the modulation of the immune system in mice pups.

Herbal extracts, lichens and biomolecules as natural photo-protection alternatives to synthetic UV filters. A systematic review

Besides the unquestionable positive effects of solar exposure for human health, UV rays have been widely investigated for toxicology aspects related to excessive UVB and UVA doses, which involve sunburns, skin aging, DNA skin damage and tumorigenesis. At present, synthetic and mineral sunscreens are used to protect against these damages but several natural molecules can provide UV protection, including also synergic effect or enhanced photo stability. Although a large number of herbal extracts and plant origin molecules can deserve potential applications, most of the study reported utilizes different method and different strategies of investigation, making thus difficult to understand the real versus claimed potential. This is possibly one of the reasons why, beside the large body of literature there are no officially approved natural commercial sun-filter but a consistent number of commercially available solar products (sunscreen) on the market that contain herbal derivatives. In this review we have evaluated the papers appeared in the last 15years and we have critically collected the most significant data. Several databases, namely Scifinder, Pubmed, Google Scholar, ISI-Web of Science and Scopus, were used as literature sources; excluding patents and symposium or congress papers. Only articles in the English language have been selected. New formulation, new skin delivery systems, skin penetration enhancers and boosters are most likely the next frontier of investigation in order to better understand the role of whole herbal extracts in exerting their photo protective activity.