Physiological effects of formulation containing tannase-converted green tea extract on skin care: physical stability, collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase activities

Study on the Effects of Tannase on the De Astringency of Pomegranate Juice

Reducing the punicalagin content is an effective strategy for eliminating the astringency of pomegranate juice. In this study, pomegranate juice was used as the raw material, and tannase was applied to convert punicalagin into ellagic acid and gallic acid. The effects of tannase concentration, reaction time, and temperature on juice deastringency were evaluated, along with the antioxidant and physicochemical properties of the treated juice. The results demonstrated that, under optimal conditions (33.9 U/100 mL tannase, 30 °C, 90 min reaction time), the punicalagin content decreased by 27.8%, while the ellagic acid and gallic acid levels increased by 24.2% and 32.3%, respectively, effectively reducing the juice's astringency. Under these conditions, the total phenolic content reached 110 mg/100 g, with a free radical scavenging capacity of 69.8%, significantly enhancing the juice's antioxidant properties. These results suggest that tannase treatment of pomegranate juice enhances the polyphenol content, thereby improving its health benefits without compromising the product quality.

Aromatic compounds and organic acids identified from Ganoderma formosanum exhibit synergistic anti-melanogenic effects

This study reveals the anti-tyrosinase activity of Ganoderma formosanum extracts, pinpointing compounds including gluconic acid, mesalamine, L-pyroglutamic acid, esculetin, 5-hydroxyindole, and salicylic acid, as effective melanin production inhibitors in melanoma cells and zebrafish embryos. Furthermore, multiple molecular docking simulations provided insights into interactions between the identified compounds and tyrosinase, increasing binding affinity up to -16.36 kcal/mol. The enhanced binding of identified compounds to tyrosinase facilitated synergistic inhibitory effects on melanin production. This study highlights the potential of GFE-EA as a source of natural tyrosinase inhibitors and contributes to understanding the role of active compounds extracted from G. formosanum.

Chemical Composition and Assessment of the Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant, Cytotoxic and Skin Enzyme Inhibitory Activities of Citrus sinensis (L.) Osbeck Essential Oil and Its Major Compound Limonene

Background/Objectives: Essential oils (EOs) from Citrus species have attracted attention for their diverse properties, including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and cytotoxic effects, which address critical health challenges such as chronic diseases and skin disorders. Citrus sinensis (L.) Osbeck, which is a widely cultivated citrus fruit, is attracting increasing attention in the field of medicinal research due to its richness of limonene (comprising approximately 85-90% of the oil). This study investigates the chemical profile of CS-EO and biological activities of CS-EO and limonene. Methods and Results: This study used gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), confirming limonene as the predominant compound (70.15%) along with other minor constituents, including thujene (10.52%), myrcene (5.54%) and α-pinene (2.81%). The biological activities of CS-EO and limonene were examined, specifically focusing on their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, cytotoxicity and dermatoprotective effects. Antioxidant potential was evaluated using DPPH, FRAP and beta-carotene assays, with CS-EO and limonene exhibiting comparable efficacy. Anti-inflammatory properties were assessed via inhibition assays of prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and nitric oxide (NO) production, showing significant reductions in LPS-stimulated macrophages treated by CS-EO or limonene. Cytotoxicity testing on various cell lines indicated selective activity of the tested compounds, with low toxicity observed on human skin fibroblasts. Limonene and CS-EO were highly effective on HepG2 cellules, with IC50 values of 0.55 ± 0.01 µg/mL and 15.97 ± 1.20 µg/mL, respectively. Dermatoprotective effects were further confirmed using enzymes, where CS-EO and limonene showed remarkable inhibitory potential against elastase (IC50 of 65.72 ± 1.92 and 86.07 ± 1.53 µg/mL, respectively) and tyrosinase (IC50 of 102 ± 2.16 and 78.34 ± 1.15 µg/mL, respectively) enzymes compared to quercetin used as a standard (IC50 of 111.03 ± 0.1 and 124.22 ± 0.07 µg/mL, respectively). Conclusions: The findings of this study suggest the potential for the development of new therapeutic approaches based on CS-EO, which could be applicable in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic and nutraceutical fields and have protective benefits for skin health.

Food-derived skin-care ingredient as a promising strategy for skin aging: Current knowledge and future perspectives

Skin aging involves complex biochemical reactions and has attracted a growing concern recently. For it, there is a great desire to replace the hazardous and easy-recurring "therapy means" with "daily care" based on some natural and healthy ingredients. According to a novel theory called "homology of cosmetic and food", the safety, efficacy and accessibility of food-derived skin-care ingredients offer an attractive option for combating skin aging, which will be an inevitable trend of dermatology in the future. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major trigger of skin aging. It acts on the skin and generates reactive oxygen species, which causing oxidative stress. More, matrix metalloproteinase and melanin levels are also upregulated by the UV-activated mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway and tyrosinase, respectively, resulting in collagen degradation and melanin deposition in the extracellular matrix. Through the existing studies, the relevant key biomarkers and biochemical pathways can be effectively controlled by skin-care ingredients from animal-derived and plant-derived foods as well as traditional herbs, thus preserving human skin from UV-induced aging in terms of antioxidant, collagen protection and melanin inhibition. To extend their application potential, some carriers represented by nanoliposomes can facilitate the transdermal absorption of food-derived skin-care ingredients by the variation of molecular weight and lipid solubility. The present review will provide an overview of the trigger mechanisms of skin aging, and focus on the molecular biology aspects of food-derived skin-care ingredients in skin matrix and the critical summarize of their research state.

Jatoba (Hymenaea courbaril L.) Pod Residue: A Source of Phenolic Compounds as Valuable Biomolecules

This study aimed at investigating the chemical composition and a selected group of bioactivities of jatoba (Hymenaea courbaril L.) pod residue. An aqueous extract (deionized water; AE) and a hydroethanolic extract (ethanol: deionized water, 70:30 v/v; ETOH) were obtained via maceration. Ten phenolic compounds were characterized via LC-DAD-ESI/MSn: seven procyanidins, two quercetin derivatives and one taxifolin derivative, with dimers and trimers of procyanidins being the main components of both extracts. Total phenolic compound levels of 2.42 ± 0.06 and 11 ± 1 mg/g were found in AE and ETOH, respectively; however, only seven compounds were identified in ETOH. The jatoba pod residue extracts showed notable antioxidant activities: ETOH had greater antioxidant potential in the OxHLIA and DPPH assays (IC50 = 25.4 μg/mL and 0.71 μg/mL, respectively); however, EA demonstrated greater potential in the FRAP system (IC50 = 2001.0 µM TE/mg). Only AE showed antiproliferative potential, being effective against cell lines of gastric (GI50 = 35 ± 1 µg/mL) and breast (GI50 = 89 ± 4 µg/mL) adenocarcinomas. Likewise, only AE showed modest anti-inflammatory potential (IC50 = 225 ± 2 µg/mL) in mouse macrophages. Bacteriostatic effects against bacteria were exerted by both extracts. Enterococcus faecalis and Listeria monocytogenes (MICs = 2.5 mg/mL) were especially sensitive to the ETOH extract. Taken together, the results suggest potential for jatoba pod residue as a source of molecules with biological activities and with possible industrial applications.

Beneficial Effects of Epigallocatechin Gallate in Preventing Skin Photoaging: A Review

Skin photoaging, primarily caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation, leads to skin metabolic disorders, which have adverse psychological and physiological effects on individuals. However, traditional medications for repairing skin photoaging cause side effects. Natural bioactive compounds have been shown to prevent and treat skin photoaging with fewer side effects. Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), the main substance in tea polyphenols, is a natural bioactive compound with a range of properties. This review summarizes the beneficial effects and mechanisms of EGCG, as well as the application forms of EGCG in repairing photoaged skin. Results indicated that EGCG has repair effects, including improving elasticity, enhancing moisturization, inhibiting damage, and reducing pigmentation of photoaged skin. It has also been demonstrated that EGCG delivery systems, modified EGCG, and combinations with other bioactive substances could be used for repairing photoaged skin due to its poor stability and low bioavailability. EGCG effectively repairs various types of skin damage caused by UV radiation while maintaining normal skin structure and function. It is, therefore, an effective candidate for repairing photoaged skin. These results could provide references for the development and application of EGCG products for the treatment of photoaged skin.

Potentialities of Tannase-Treated Green Tea Extract in Nutraceutical and Therapeutic Applications

Green tea has garnered widespread interest in the past decades due to its content of health-beneficial polyphenols and catechins, besides reportedly exhibiting activities for the prevention, and possibly treatment, of many modern-life-associated afflictions. Hence, the functional food potential of health-beneficial beverages such as green tea is widely and commercially promoted. Biotransformation of green tea extract using enzymes such as tannase ostensibly enhances its beneficial well-being properties and disease-preventing functionalities. The tannase-treated green tea catechins may exhibit enhanced, amongst others, antioxidant, anti-tumour, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory, anti-obesity and anti-sarcopenia properties compared to native green tea extract. Nonetheless, the health benefits and therapeutic and toxicological effects associated with these compounds, before and after tannase treatment, present a scientific gap for detailed studies. Accordingly, the review surveys the literature from the late twentieth century until the year 2023 related to the aforementioned important aspects.

Nanoencapsulation of Tea Catechins for Enhancing Skin Absorption and Therapeutic Efficacy

Tea catechins are a group of flavonoids that show many bioactivities. Catechins have been extensively reported as a potential treatment for skin disorders, including skin cancers, acne, photoaging, cutaneous wounds, scars, alopecia, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and microbial infection. In particular, there has been an increasing interest in the discovery of cosmetic applications using catechins as the active ingredient because of their antioxidant and anti-aging activities. However, active molecules with limited lipophilicity have difficulty penetrating the skin barrier, resulting in low bioavailability. Nevertheless, topical application is a convenient method for delivering catechins into the skin. Nanomedicine offers an opportunity to improve the delivery efficiency of tea catechins and related compounds. The advantages of catechin-loaded nanocarriers for topical application include high catechin loading efficiency, sustained or prolonged release, increased catechin stability, improved bioavailability, and enhanced accumulation or targeting to the nidus. Further, various types of nanoparticles, including liposomes, niosomes, micelles, lipid-based nanoparticles, polymeric nanoparticles, liquid crystalline nanoparticles, and nanocrystals, have been employed for topical catechin delivery. These nanoparticles can improve catechin permeation via close skin contact, increased skin hydration, skin structure disorganization, and follicular uptake. In this review, we describe the catechin skin delivery approaches based on nanomedicine for treating skin disorders. We also provide an in-depth description of how nanoparticles effectively improve the skin absorption of tea catechins and related compounds, such as caffeine. Furthermore, we summarize the possible future applications and the limitations of nanocarriers for topical delivery at the end of this review article.

Tea (Camellia sinensis): A Review of Nutritional Composition, Potential Applications, and Omics Research

Tea (Camelliasinensis) is the world’s most widely consumed non-alcoholic beverage with essential economic and health benefits since it is an excellent source of polyphenols, catechins, amino acids, flavonoids, carotenoids, vitamins, and polysaccharides. The aim of this review is to summarize the main secondary metabolites in tea plants, and the content and distribution of these compounds in six different types of tea and different organs of tea plant were further investigated. The application of these secondary metabolites on food processing, cosmetics industry, and pharmaceutical industry was reviewed in this study. With the rapid advancements in biotechnology and sequencing technology, omics analyses, including genome, transcriptome, and metabolome, were widely used to detect the main secondary metabolites and their molecular regulatory mechanisms in tea plants. Numerous functional genes and regulatory factors have been discovered, studied, and applied to improve tea plants. Research advances, including secondary metabolites, applications, omics research, and functional gene mining, are comprehensively reviewed here. Further exploration and application trends are briefly described. This review provides a reference for basic and applied research on tea plants.

Ethanolic Fenugreek Extract: Its Molecular Mechanisms against Skin Aging and the Enhanced Functions by Nanoencapsulation

Fenugreek, or Trigonella foenum-graecum L. (family Leguminosae) seeds, are typically used as food supplements to increase postnatal lactation. Fenugreek extract displays antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties, but its mechanisms against skin aging have not been exploited. In this research, we are the first to define an in vitro collagenase inhibitory activity of fenugreek extract (IC₅₀ = 0.57 ± 0.02 mg/mL), which is 2.6 times more potent than vitamin C (IC₅₀ = 1.46 mg/mL). Nanoencapsulation has been applied to improve the extract stability, and subsequently enhanced its bioactivities. Liponiosome encapsulating fenugreek extract (LNF) was prepared using a high-speed homogenizer, resulting in homogeneous spherical nanoparticles with sizes in the range of 174.7 ± 49.2 nm, 0.26 ± 0.04 in PdI, and 46.6 ± 7.4% of entrapment efficiency. LNF formulation significantly facilitated a sustained release and significantly enhanced skin penetration over the extracts, suggesting a potential use of LNF for transdermal delivery. The formulated LNF was highly stable, not toxic to human fibroblast, and was able to enhance cell viability, collagen production, and inhibit MMP1, MMP9, IL-6, and IL-8 secretions compared to the extract in the co-cultured skin model. Therefore, ethanolic fenugreek extract and its developed LNF display molecular mechanisms against skin aging and could potentially be used as an innovative ingredient for the prevention of skin aging.

Potency of bisresorcinol from Heliciopsis terminalis on skin aging: in vitro bioactivities and molecular interactions

Background

A bisresorcinol was isolated as the main constituent of Heliciopsis terminalis’s trunk (Proteaceae). Recently, resorcinol is applied as an active whitening agent in various cosmetic products. Because of the structural mimic to resorcinol, benefits of the bisresorcinol as an aging-enzyme antagonist were demonstrated in this study.

Methods

The bisresorcinol was purified from the crude ethanolic extract of H. terminalis’s trunk by solvent extraction and preparative chromatography, respectively. Inhibitory activity on collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase of the compound was investigated by using a different spectroscopic technique. Molecular docking was carried out to predict possible interactions of the substance around the enzyme active sites.

Results

The IC₅₀ values on collagenase of the bisresorcinol and caffeic acid were 156.7 ± 0.7 and 308.9 ± 1.6 µmole L⁻¹, respectively. For elastase activity, the IC₅₀ of 33.2 ± 0.5 and 34.3 ± 0.3 µmole L⁻¹ was respectively determined for the bisresorcinol and ursolic acid. The bisresorcinol was inhibitory to tyrosinase by exhibiting the IC₅₀ of 22.8 µmole L⁻¹, and that of 78.4 µmole L⁻¹ was present for β-arbutin. The bisresorcinol bound to collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase with the respective binding energies of −5.89, −5.69, and −6.57 kcal mol⁻¹. These binding energies were in the same ranges of tested inhibitors. The aromatic phenol groups in the structure were responsible for principle as well as supporting binding interactions with enzymes. Hydrogen binding due to hydroxyl groups and π-related attractive forces from an aromatic ring(s) provided binding versatility to bisresorcinol.

Conclusion

The bisresorcinol purified from H. terminalis might be useful for inclusion in cosmetic products as an aging-enzyme antagonist.

Effects of a High-Molecular-Weight Polysaccharides Isolated from Korean Persimmon on the Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Antiwrinkle Activity

Persimmon (Diospyros kaki), a familiar and widespread fruit worldwide, is known to exhibit several physiological effects because of the presence of pharmacologically active compounds called phytochemicals. However, its high-molecular-weight compounds, particularly polysaccharides, have not been extensively studied. In this study, D. kaki extract (DK) was fractionated into low- and high-molecular-weight fractions (DK-L and DK-H, respectively) through ethanol fractionation, and their effects on antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiwrinkle activities were investigated by an in vitro system. DK-H contained significantly higher contents of neutral sugar, uronic acid, and polyphenols compared to DK and DK-L. Furthermore, DK-H exhibited significantly improved pharmacological activities, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiwrinkle properties, compared to those of DK and DK-L, demonstrating that DK-H may play an important role in mediating the beneficial effects of persimmon. Sugar composition analysis and molecular characterization indicated that DK-H consisted of a galacturonic acid (GalA)-rich polysaccharide with a molecular weight of >345 kDa that mainly comprised GalA and small amounts of neutral sugar and polyphenol residues. These results suggest that the bioactive fraction DK-H is likely to be a GalA-rich pectic polysaccharide containing a small number of polyphenol residues, which may be a novel candidate in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries.

New insights on Phyllanthus reticulatus Poir. leaves and stem bark extracts: UPLC-ESI-TOF-MS profiles, and biopharmaceutical and in silico analysis

Our results could provide a great scientific starting point on the way from the bench to functional applications through the use of P. reticulatus, namely novel nutraceuticals, pharmaceuticals and cosmeceuticals.

Natural Formulations Provide Antioxidant Complement to Hyaluronic Acid-Based Topical Applications Used in Wound Healing

Hyaluronic acid (HA) promotes wound healing, and, accordingly, formulations based on HA have been widely used in regenerative medicine. In addition, naturally derived compounds, e.g., plant-based extracts and vitamin E, have exhibited antioxidant activity. In this study, a formulation containing hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, raspberry extract, and green tea was developed for potential topical applications, targeting wound healing. Rheological analysis was performed along with antioxidant and biological studies. The rheological characterization showed that the HA-based formulation is a thixotropic platform and possesses higher mechanical properties than the control formulation. To evaluate the wound healing potential of the formulation, an in vitro “wound healing” assay was carried out using human derived fibroblasts (HDF) with a cell-free gap on the tissue culture dish. The formulation showed better wound healing ability than the control formulation.

Natural skin-whitening compounds for the treatment of melanogenesis (Review)

Melanogenesis is the process for the production of melanin, which is the primary cause of human skin pigmentation. Skin-whitening agents are commercially available for those who wish to have a lighter skin complexions. To date, although numerous natural compounds have been proposed to alleviate hyperpigmentation, insufficient attention has been focused on potential natural skin-whitening agents and their mechanism of action from the perspective of compound classification. In the present article, the synthetic process of melanogenesis and associated core signaling pathways are summarized. An overview of the list of natural skin-lightening agents, along with their compound classifications, is also presented, where their efficacy based on their respective mechanisms of action on melanogenesis is discussed.

Polyphenols-Loaded Sericin Self-Assembling Nanoparticles: A Slow-Release for Regeneration by Tissue-Resident Mesenchymal Stem/Stromal Cells

Mesenchymal stem/stromal cells (MSCs) are a therapeutic target to promote tissue regeneration, mainly when oxidative stress-mediated damage is involved in disease pathogenesis. Here, slow-release silk sericin nanoparticles (SNPs) loaded with natural antioxidant polyphenols were developed to sustain regeneration by tissue-resident MSCs. SNPs were prepared by exploiting a self-assembly method with poloxamer and were loaded with proanthocyanidins (P), quercetin (Q) or epigallocatechin gallate (E). SNPs, with a diameter less than 150 nm, were able to encapsulate both hydrophilic (P and E) and hydrophobic (Q) drugs. A slow and controlled release was obtained from SNPs for all the actives in PBS, while in EtOH, Q and E showed a burst release but P did not. Kinetic models revealed lower diffusion of P than other biomolecules, probably due to the higher steric hindrance of P. The in vitro anti-oxidant, anti-elastase and anti-tyrosinase properties of SNPs were assessed: loading the P and E into SNPs preserved the in vitro biological activities whereas for Q, the anti-elastase activity was strongly improved. Moreover, all formulations promoted MSC metabolic activity over 72 h. Finally, SNPs exhibited a strong ability to protect MSCs from oxidative stress, which supports their potential use for regenerative purposes mediated by tissue-resident MSCs.

Chromatographic profiling of silk sericin for biomedical and cosmetic use by complementary hydrophylic, reversed phase and size exclusion chromatographic methods

Silk sericin (SS) is, together with silk fibroin (SF), one of the two proteins forming the silkworm cocoon. SS is ideal ingredient for cosmetic applications in the formulation of specific products for skin care and hair due to its peculiar physical-chemical composition. SS also showed a great potential in different pharmacological and biotechnological applications, as anticancer drug, anticoagulant, cell culture additive, wound healing agent and drug delivery carrier. Reasons for SS use in biomedical applications derive from its physical-chemical composition. As a consequence, a detailed characterization of SS in terms of average molecular weight, molecular weight distribution and hydro/lipophilic character is crucial to properly address and assess its quality, cosmetic or pharmacological use. In this study, the application of different and complementary chromatographic modes allows a detailed investigation of SS protein isolated from wastewater using two diverse extraction methods. Hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC using an AdvanceBio Glycan Map column) and reverse phase (RP using Symmetry300 C18 column) were applied to intact protein characterization to derive data on protein hydrophilicity and on hydrophobic components of the two SS preparations (SS#1 and SS#2). A higher hydrophilic character of SS#1 was observed by HILIC trace, coherently with the preparation method used, while no significant differences in hydrophobicity were detectable in the RPLC separations. Size distribution was also defined by using a SEC-UV-MS method (using TSKgel SuperSW2000 column) properly optimized to maximize both the size selectivity and the method sensitivity. Taken together, the chromatographic data allowed to better characterize the SS samples obtained by different extraction methods, and the structural properties were correlated to their biological activities.

The Role of Bioactive Compounds and other Metabolites from Mushrooms against Skin Disorders- A Systematic Review Assessing their Cosmeceutical and Nutricosmetic Outcomes

Bioactive compounds derived from mushrooms have been shown to present promising potential as cosmeceutical or nutricosmetic ingredients. Scientific data reviewed herein showed that extracts prepared from medicinal and edible mushrooms and their individual metabolites presented antiinflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, and anticollagenase activities. These metabolites can be utilised as ingredients to suppress the severity of Inflammatory Skin Diseases, offer photoprotection to the skin, and correct Hyperpigmentation. However, studies regarding the molecular mechanism behind the mentioned bioactivities are still lacking. Challenges associated with the use of mushroom extracts and their associated metabolites as cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic ingredients include several steps from the fruiting bodies to the final product: extraction optimization, estimation of the efficacy and safety claims, the use of micro and nanocarriers to allow for controlled release and the pros and cons associated with the use of extracts vs individual compounds. This systematic review highlights that mushrooms contain diverse biomolecules that can be sustainably used in the development of nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations. Reports regarding stability, compatibility, and safety assessment, but also toxicological studies are still needed to be considered. Furthermore, some of the constraints and limitations hindering the development of this type of ingredients still require long-term studies to achieve major breakthroughs.

A Comprehensive Insight on the Health Benefits and Phytoconstituents of Camellia sinensis and Recent Approaches for Its Quality Control

Tea, Camellia sinensis, which belongs to the family Theaceae, is a shrub or evergreen tree up to 16 m in height. Green tea is very popular because of its marked health benefits comprising its anticancer, anti-oxidant, and antimicrobial activities, as well as its effectiveness in reducing body weight. Additionally, it was recognized by Chinese people as an effective traditional drink required for the prophylaxis against many health ailments. This is due to the complex chemical composition of green tea, which comprises different classes of chemical compounds, such as polyphenols, alkaloids, proteins, minerals, vitamins, amino acids, and others. The beneficial health effects of green tea ultimately led to its great consumption and increase its liability to be adulterated by either low-quality or non-green tea products with concomitant decrease in activity. Thus, in this review, green tea was selected to highlight its health benefits and phytoconstituents, as well as recent approaches for its quality-control monitoring that guarantee its incorporation in many pharmaceutical industries. More research is needed to find out other more biological activities, active constituents, and other simple and cheap techniques for its quality assurance that ascertain the prevention of its adulteration.

Efficiency of Skin Whitening Cream Containing Etlingera elatior Flower and Leaf Extracts in Volunteers

Our previous research demonstrated that Etlingera elatior possesses whitening and anti-aging properties and also contains bioactive ingredients for cosmeceuticals. Therefore, this research work aimed to evaluate the efficiency of whitening cream containing both the flower and leaf extracts of E. elatior in human volunteers and their degree of skin irritation. Both the flower and leaf extracts were formulated as a cosmetic called “FL1 cream”, which was assessed for its physical properties and underwent an accelerated stability test. The FL1 cream was also evaluated for skin irritation and its skin whitening effect among 24 healthy volunteers who used it for four weeks. The FL1 cream demonstrated good physical stability under the various conditions for three months, along with six cycles of heating/cooling. The irritation analysis showed that irritation reactions were absent in all volunteers. The efficiency of FL1 cream in improving the appearance of skin whitening was demonstrated by a significant (p < 0.05) and continuous decrease in melanin content compared with the initial value. Additionally, the L* value was significantly and continuously increased after application of the FL1 cream. The highest melanin reduction was 6.67%. The FL1 cream containing E. elatior extracts can be used as a whitening cream in cosmetics.

Anti-Oxidative and Anti-Aging Activities of Porcine By-Product Collagen Hydrolysates Produced by Commercial Proteases: Effect of Hydrolysis and Ultrafiltration

To investigate methods for improving the processing of porcine waste, porcine skin was hydrolyzed using different commercially available proteases (Alcalase, Flavorzyme, Neutrase, Bromeline, Protamex, and Papain) under several optimal conditions. Following enzymatic hydrolysis, the collagen hydrolysates (CHs) were fractionated by molecular weight (3 kDa) via membrane ultrafiltration. The CHs were analyzed for physical properties (pH, protein recovery, free amino group content, molecular weight distribution, and amino composition) as well as for functional properties (antioxidant activities and anti-aging activities). Among the CHs, CHs hydrolyzed by Alcalase (CH-Alcalase) exhibited the highest degree of hydrolysis compared to other CHs. Both “CH-Alcalase” and “CH-Alcalase < 3 kDa” fractions showed a considerably high antioxidant activity and collagenase inhibition activity. Therefore, resulting bioactives have potential for development as antioxidants and anti-aging ingredients in the food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals, from animal by-products.

Agro-Industrial By-Products and Their Bioactive Compounds—An Ally against Oxidative Stress and Skin Aging

The increased consumer awareness towards hazards related with sun exposure has given a boost in the cosmetics industry and particularly the sun care market. Human skin is continually being threatened by the UV irradiation present in sunlight and acute UV exposure leads to skin photoaging. Cosmetic and/or dermatological applications include several bioactive compounds that contribute to the regulation of epidermal homeostasis by providing protection against solar radiation and improving the antioxidant activity of epidermis. Plant extracts are sources of active ingredients with intense therapeutic properties, and the topical application or oral intake of these compounds could ameliorate skin condition. Nowadays, there is a growing demand for the application of the bioactive agents contained in agro-industrial byproducts in sun care products, since many of them have shown promising properties as skin photoprotectants. However, well-conducted clinical studies are required to prove their safety and efficacy before they could be regularly used. Environmentally friendly extraction and sustainable techniques are therefore under examination for recovering such compounds from agro-industrial byproducts and converting them into innovative high-value natural ingredients used in cosmetic formulations.

Sageretia thea fruit extracts rich in methyl linoleate and methyl linolenate downregulate melanogenesis via the Akt/GSK3β signaling pathway

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

Sageretia thea is traditionally used as a medicinal herb to treat various diseases, including skin disorders, in China and Korea. This study evaluated the inhibitory effect of Sageretia thea fruit on melanogenesis and its underlying mechanisms in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. The active chemical compounds in anti-melanogenesis were determined in Sageretia thea.

MATERIALS/METHODS

Solvent fractions from the crude extract were investigated for anti-melanogenic activities. These activities and the mechanism of anti-melanogenesis in B16F10 cells were examined by determining melanin content and tyrosinase activity, and by performing western blotting.

RESULTS

The n-hexane fraction of Sageretia thea fruit (HFSF) exhibited significant anti-melanogenic activity among the various solvent fractions without reducing viability of B16F10 cells. The HFSF suppressed the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1). The reduction of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) expression by the HFSF was mediated by the Akt/glycogen synthase kinase 3 beta (GSK3β) signaling pathway, which promotes the reduction of β-catenin. Treatment with the GSK3β inhibitor 6-bromoindirubin-3'-oxime (BIO) restored HFSF-induced inhibition of MITF expression. The HFSF bioactive constituents responsible for anti-melanogenic activity were identified by bioassay-guided fractionation and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis as methyl linoleate and methyl linolenate.

CONCLUSIONS

These results indicate that HFSF and its constituents, methyl linoleate and methyl linolenate, could be used as whitening agents in cosmetics and have potential for treating hyperpigmentation disorders in the clinic.

Green tea (Camellia sinensis) and l-theanine: Medicinal values and beneficial applications in humans-A comprehensive review

Green tea (Camellia sinensis) is a famous herb, and its extract has been extensively used in traditional Chinese medicinal system. In this context, several studies have revealed its health benefits and medicinal potentialities for several ailments. With ever increasing scientific knowledge, search for safer, potential and novel type of health-related supplements quest, scientists are re-directing their research interests to explore natural resources i.e. medicinal herbs/plant derived compounds. Green tea consumption has gained a special attention and popularity in the modern era of changing lifestyle. The present review is aimed to extend the current knowledge by highlighting the importance and beneficial applications of green tea in humans for safeguarding various health issues. Herein, we have extensively reviewed, analyzed, and compiled salient information on green tea from the authentic published literature available in PubMed and other scientific databases. Scientific literature evidenced that owing to the bioactive constituents including caffeine, l-theanine, polyphenols/flavonoids and other potent molecules, green tea has many pharmacological and physiological functions. It possesses multi-beneficial applications in treating various disorders of humans. This review also provides in-depth insights on the medicinal values of green tea which will be useful for researchers, medical professionals, veterinarians, nutritionists, pharmacists and pharmaceutical industry. Future research emphasis and promotional avenues are needed to explore its potential therapeutic applications for designing appropriate pharmaceuticals, complementary medicines, and effective drugs as well as popularize and propagate its multidimensional health benefits.

Development of novel Meju starter culture using plant extracts with reduced Bacillus cereus counts and enhanced functional properties

We developed a novel type of Meju starter culture using single and combined extracts of Allium sativum (garlic clove), Nelumbo nucifera (lotus leaves), and Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo leaves) to improve the quality and functionality of Meju-based fermented products. Meju samples fermented with plant extracts (10 mg/ml) showed phenolic contents of 11.4-31.6 mg/g (gallic acid equivalents). Samples of extracts (garlic clove, lotus leaves, ginkgo leaves and their combination) fermented with Meju strongly inhibited tyrosinase, α-glucosidase, and elastase activities by 36.43-64.34%, 45.08-48.02%, and 4.52-10.90%, respectively. Specifically, ginkgo leaves extract added to fermented Meju samples at different concentrations (1% and 10%) strongly inhibited tyrosinase, α-glucosidase, and elastase activities and exhibited a potent antibacterial effect against Bacillus cereus with a significant reduction in bacterial counts compared with the effects observed for garlic clove and lotus leaf added to Meju samples. Scanning electron microscopy revealed severe morphological alterations of the B. cereus cell wall in response to ginkgo leaf extracts. Gas chromatographic mass spectroscopic analysis of plant extract-supplemented Meju samples and control Meju samples identified 113 bioactive compounds representing 98.44-99.98% total extract. The proposed approach may be useful for the development of various fermented functional foods at traditional and commercial levels.

Pinhão starch and coat extract as new natural cosmetic ingredients: Topical formulation stability and sensory analysis

The objective of this study was to use pinhão derivatives, starch and coat extract, as new natural ingredients to develop cosmetic formulations. Two types of formulation, gel and emulgel, and their controls were developed. The formulations were characterized by stability studies using thermal stress. The parameters analyzed were resistance to centrifugation, pH, spreadability, rheology, content of phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity. Sensory analysis was also performed to verify the acceptability of the ingredients to potential consumers. The pH was kept the same after heating/freezing cycles for all formulations, and the formulations showed stability by resistance to centrifugation. The formulations did not induce any skin irritation or cutaneous pH alteration. The pinhão starch addition improved spreadability stability and increased viscosity when compared with control formulations. The pinhão coat extract used in these formulations is a good source of phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity. Moreover, sensory analysis indicates that the emulgel formulation is the best vehicle for adding pinhão starch and pinhão coat extract.