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Diana Draelos Z, Gunt H, Levy SB. Nature-based botanical facial oil oxidative stress protection. J Cosmet Dermatol 2020; 20:522-525. [PMID: 33350043 PMCID: PMC7953896 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13879] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/01/2020] [Revised: 10/17/2020] [Accepted: 11/30/2020] [Indexed: 12/01/2022]
Abstract
INTRODUCTION UV-induced oxidative skin stress leads to cutaneous photoaging. The objective of these 2 studies was to evaluate a nature-based botanical facial oil for the ability to decrease UV-induced oxidative skin stress. METHODS 22 females were enrolled in the UVA study, and 10 females were enrolled in the UVB study. Skin chemiluminescence induced by UVA exposure was measured at baseline and after 2 weeks of daily topical application of the nature-based facial oil was evaluated in study 1. In study 2, UVB-induced erythema was measured after 8 weeks of twice-daily topical application of the nature-based facial oil to a photoprotected site followed by skin biopsy to evaluate sunburn cell formation. In both studies, the treatment response was compared to the response on untreated skin. RESULTS The nature-based facial oil significantly reduced skin chemiluminescence following UVA exposure, demonstrating antioxidant activity. The nature-based facial oil also significantly reduced erythema formation following UVB exposure and resulted in reduced sunburn cell formation in 66.67% of subjects. CONCLUSION Topical nature-based facial oil can reduce UV-induced oxidative cutaneous damage.
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Sulzberger M, Worthmann AC, Holtzmann U, Buck B, Jung K, Schoelermann A, Rippke F, Stäb F, Wenck H, Neufang G, Grönniger E. Effective treatment for sensitive skin: 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and licochalcone A. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2016; 30 Suppl 1:9-17. [DOI: 10.1111/jdv.13529] [Citation(s) in RCA: 27] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Accepted: 10/27/2015] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- M. Sulzberger
- Research & Development; Beiersdorf AG; Hamburg Germany
| | | | - U. Holtzmann
- Research & Development; Beiersdorf AG; Hamburg Germany
| | - B. Buck
- Research & Development; Beiersdorf AG; Hamburg Germany
| | - K.A. Jung
- Research & Development; Beiersdorf AG; Hamburg Germany
| | | | - F. Rippke
- Research & Development; Beiersdorf AG; Hamburg Germany
| | - F. Stäb
- Research & Development; Beiersdorf AG; Hamburg Germany
| | - H. Wenck
- Research & Development; Beiersdorf AG; Hamburg Germany
| | - G. Neufang
- Research & Development; Beiersdorf AG; Hamburg Germany
| | - E. Grönniger
- Research & Development; Beiersdorf AG; Hamburg Germany
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Meyer S, Peters N, Mann T, Wolber R, Pörtner R, Nierle J. In Vitro Efficacy and Release Study with Anti-Inflammatory Drugs Incorporated in Adhesive Transdermal Drug Delivery Systems. J Pharm Sci 2014. [DOI: 10.1002/jps.23878] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/08/2022]
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The nano-scale mechanical properties of the extracellular matrix regulate dermal fibroblast function. J Invest Dermatol 2014; 134:1862-1872. [PMID: 24670384 DOI: 10.1038/jid.2014.90] [Citation(s) in RCA: 179] [Impact Index Per Article: 17.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/09/2013] [Revised: 01/09/2014] [Accepted: 01/23/2014] [Indexed: 12/12/2022]
Abstract
Changes in the mechanical properties of dermis occur during skin aging or tissue remodeling and affect the activity of resident fibroblasts. With the aim to establish elastic culture substrates that reproduce the variable softness of dermis, we determined Young's elastic modulus E of human dermis at the cell perception level using atomic force microscopy. The E of dermis ranged from 0.1 to 10 kPa, varied depending on body area and dermal layer, and tended to increase with age in 26-55-year-old donors. The activation state of human dermal fibroblasts cultured on "skin-soft" E (5 kPa) silicone culture substrates was compared with stiff plastic culture (GPa), collagen gel cultures (0.1-9 kPa), and fresh human dermal tissue. Fibroblasts cultured on skin-soft silicones displayed low mRNA levels of fibrosis-associated genes and increased expression of the matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) MMP-1 and MMP-3 as compared with collagen gel and plastic cultures. The activation profile exhibited by fibroblasts on "skin-soft" silicone culture substrates was most comparable with that of human dermis than any other tested culture condition. Hence, providing biomimetic mechanical conditions generates fibroblasts that are more suitable to investigate physiologically relevant cell processes than fibroblasts spontaneously activated by stiff conventional culture surfaces.
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Ou-Yang H. The application of ultra-weak photon emission in dermatology. JOURNAL OF PHOTOCHEMISTRY AND PHOTOBIOLOGY B-BIOLOGY 2013; 139:63-70. [PMID: 24275519 DOI: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2013.10.003] [Citation(s) in RCA: 18] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/26/2013] [Revised: 10/04/2013] [Accepted: 10/07/2013] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
Ultra-weak photo emission (UPE) is a phenomenon closely associated with life and provides us a rare window to look into oxidative reactions in life directly without the aid of other agents. Dozens of independent studies have investigated UPE in skin in the last 2 decades. Skin serves as a convenient target for the application of UPE. As the outmost layer of our body, skin is also subjected to the influences from environmental factors such as ultraviolet light. Therefore UPE measurement can help us better understand the interaction between skin and the outside world. A variety of dermatological interventions may benefit from UPE studies. In particular, those treatments aiming to manage the oxidative status of the skin can be monitored directly by UPE measurements. In recent years, UPE has already been used as a valuable in vivo tool to assist the selection of better skin care ingredients and products. The knowledge gained by UPE studies of skin may also help generate new insights and new targets for future treatments. This review emphasizes in vivo and clinical measurement of UPE in skin. The applications of UPE in skin research related to antioxidants and sunscreens are discussed.
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Affiliation(s)
- Hao Ou-Yang
- Johnson & Johnson Consumer Company Worldwide, 199 Grandview Road, Skillman, NJ 08558, United States.
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Egbert M, Ruetze M, Sattler M, Wenck H, Gallinat S, Lucius R, Weise JM. The matricellular protein periostin contributes to proper collagen function and is downregulated during skin aging. J Dermatol Sci 2013; 73:40-8. [PMID: 24055232 DOI: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2013.08.010] [Citation(s) in RCA: 40] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/28/2013] [Revised: 08/12/2013] [Accepted: 08/27/2013] [Indexed: 12/19/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Periostin is a secreted 90kDa matricellular protein, which is predominantly expressed in collagen-rich tissues. Collagen is the most abundant protein in mammals and has great tensile strength. Recent investigations have shown that periostin influences collagen fibrillogenesis and biomechanical properties of murine connective tissues. OBJECTIVE We investigated the function of periostin concerning collagen homeostasis during intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging. For this purpose, human skin samples of young and old donors as well as samples of photoaged and sun-protected skin areas were analyzed for periostin expression. Using in vitro models, we determined the cell types responsible for periostin expression and performed functional analyses with periostin knockdown cells. METHODS TaqMan Real-Time PCR, UV irradiation, knockdown experiments, immunostaining, electron microscopy, collagen degradation assay, collagen crosslink analysis. RESULTS Periostin expression is highest in the papillary dermis and downregulated during skin aging. Fibroblasts and non-follicular skin derived precursors were identified as main source for periostin expression in human skin. Periostin knockdown in fibroblasts has no effect on collagen expression, but results in an increased fibril diameter and aberrant collagen structure. This leads to an increased susceptibility of collagen toward proteases, whereas recombinant periostin protects collagen fibrils from degradation. CONCLUSION Our data show that periostin plays an important role for proper collagen assembly and homeostasis. During skin aging periostin expression decreases and contributes to the phenotype of aged skin.
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Affiliation(s)
- M Egbert
- Research & Development, Beiersdorf AG, Unnastr. 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany
| | - M Ruetze
- Research & Development, Beiersdorf AG, Unnastr. 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany; Department of Anatomy, University of Kiel, Olshausenstr. 40, 24098 Kiel, Germany
| | - M Sattler
- Research & Development, Beiersdorf AG, Unnastr. 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany
| | - H Wenck
- Research & Development, Beiersdorf AG, Unnastr. 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany
| | - S Gallinat
- Research & Development, Beiersdorf AG, Unnastr. 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany
| | - R Lucius
- Department of Anatomy, University of Kiel, Olshausenstr. 40, 24098 Kiel, Germany
| | - J M Weise
- Research & Development, Beiersdorf AG, Unnastr. 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany.
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Sommer N, Sattler M, Weise JM, Wenck H, Gallinat S, Fischer F. A tissue-engineered human dermal construct utilizing fibroblasts and transforming growth factor β1 to promote elastogenesis. Biotechnol J 2013; 8:317-26. [DOI: 10.1002/biot.201200209] [Citation(s) in RCA: 12] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/23/2012] [Revised: 01/03/2013] [Accepted: 01/17/2013] [Indexed: 11/11/2022]
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UV-mediated downregulation of the endocytic collagen receptor, Endo180, contributes to accumulation of extracellular collagen fragments in photoaged skin. J Dermatol Sci 2013; 70:42-8. [PMID: 23433549 DOI: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2013.01.008] [Citation(s) in RCA: 21] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/04/2012] [Revised: 12/07/2012] [Accepted: 01/22/2013] [Indexed: 11/20/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Collagen is the most abundant protein in human skin and is responsible for its resilience. In particular during photoaging, collagen homeostasis is out of balance leading to a continuous loss of intact collagen and to the observed signs of aged skin such as diminished tensile strength and wrinkle development. The process of collagen turnover is very slow and the relevance of cellular uptake of damaged collagen, most likely mediated via Endo180 or integrin α2β1, still remains a matter of investigation. OBJECTIVE We investigated the role of different collagen receptors on dermal fibroblasts for collagen internalization and their impact on collagen homeostasis during photoaging. METHODS TaqMan Real-Time PCR, flow cytometry, UV irradiation, knockdown experiments and immunostaining. RESULTS We show that Endo180 and integrin α2 are regulated in photoaged skin and after acute UV stress in vivo and in vitro. Knockdown experiments revealed that Endo180 is essential for cellular uptake of collagen fragments by dermal fibroblasts, whereas integrin α2 is important for initial binding of collagen. UV irradiation decreases collagen endocytosis. This correlates with reduced Endo180 expression and pericellular accumulation of collagen fragments during photoaging. CONCLUSION Our findings correlate for the first time impaired collagen uptake via Endo180 with the pericellular accumulation of collagen fragments during photoaging. We assume an altered pericellular niche of fibroblasts in photoaged skin that has an impact on collagen homeostasis.
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Peirano RI, Achterberg V, Düsing HJ, Akhiani M, Koop U, Jaspers S, Krüger A, Schwengler H, Hamann T, Wenck H, Stäb F, Gallinat S, Blatt T. Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjects. J Cosmet Dermatol 2012; 10:273-81. [PMID: 22151935 DOI: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00579.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/20/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND The dermal extracellular matrix provides stability and structure to the skin. With increasing age, however, its major component collagen is subject to degeneration, resulting in a gradual decline in skin elasticity and progression of wrinkle formation. Previous studies suggest that the reduction in cellular energy contributes to the diminished synthesis of cutaneous collagen during aging. AIMS To investigate the potential of topically applied creatine to improve the clinical signs of skin aging by stimulating dermal collagen synthesis in vitro and in vivo. PATIENTS/METHODS Penetration experiments were performed with a pig skin ex vivo model. Effects of creatine on dermal collagen gene expression and procollagen synthesis were studied in vitro using cultured fibroblast-populated collagen gels. In a single-center, controlled study, 43 male Caucasians applied a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana extract, and glycerol to determine its influence on facial topometric features. RESULTS Cultured human dermal fibroblasts supplemented with creatine displayed a stimulation of collagen synthesis relative to untreated control cells both on the gene expression and at the protein level. In skin penetration experiments, topically applied creatine rapidly reached the dermis. In addition, topical in vivo application of a creatine-containing formulation for 6 weeks significantly reduced the sagging cheek intensity in the jowl area as compared to baseline. This result was confirmed by clinical live scoring, which also demonstrated a significant reduction in crow's feet wrinkles and wrinkles under the eyes. CONCLUSIONS In summary, creatine represents a beneficial active ingredient for topical use in the prevention and treatment of human skin aging.
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Affiliation(s)
- Reto I Peirano
- Department of Skin Biology and Skin Structure, Beiersdorf AG Research and Development, Unnastrasse 48, Hamburg, Germany
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Ratz-Lyko A, Arct J, Pytkowska K. Methods for evaluation of cosmetic antioxidant capacity. Skin Res Technol 2011; 18:421-30. [PMID: 22093040 DOI: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.2011.00588.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 29] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Accepted: 10/09/2011] [Indexed: 01/05/2023]
Abstract
The skin as the largest part of human body is one of the main targets for ultraviolet radiation, environmental pollution, toxic chemicals and some metal ions, which share responsibility for the formation of free radicals. The resulting free radicals, both oxygen and nitrogen species are one of the main causes of aging due to impaired regulation of cell respiratory metabolism involving incomplete oxygen reduction in mitochondria and production a superoxide anion, hydroxyl radicals et al. In modern cosmetology to minimize the adverse effects of free radicals, antioxidants, which inhibit free radical reactions, mainly autoxidation processes are used. Currently, not only many cosmetic products containing antioxidants are available, but a large diversity of methods for determination of cosmetics antioxidant activity is also accessible. These methods can be divided into three main groups: in vitro, in vivo, and ex vivo as reported herein. Due to lack of standardization and validation it is necessary to use a variety of methods as well as conditions for those purposes, which are presented to the context.
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Affiliation(s)
- Anna Ratz-Lyko
- Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Department of Cosmetics Chemistry, Warsaw, Poland
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11
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TRP-channel-specific cutaneous eicosanoid release patterns. Pain 2011; 152:2765-2772. [PMID: 21962912 DOI: 10.1016/j.pain.2011.08.025] [Citation(s) in RCA: 50] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/01/2011] [Revised: 08/16/2011] [Accepted: 08/29/2011] [Indexed: 12/26/2022]
Abstract
Analyzing mechanisms and key players in peripheral nociception nonneuronal skin cells are getting more and more into focus. Herein we investigated the functional expression of TRPV1 and TRPA1 in human keratinocytes and fibroblasts and assessed proinflammatory lipid mediator release upon their stimulation as well as sensory effects after topical application, combining in vitro and in vivo approaches. In vitro, the expression of functional TRPV1 and TRPA1 channels on fibroblasts and keratinocytes was confirmed via immunofluorescence, qualitative real time (RT) polymerase chain reaction, and cellular Ca(2+) influx measurements. Additionally, the agonists allyl isothiocyanate (TRPA1) and capsaicin (TRPV1) induce a differential secretion pattern of the eicosanoids PGE(2) and LTB(4) in human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes, which was also detectable invivo, analyzing suction blister fluid at various times after short-term topical application. Capsaicin provoked the release of LTB(4) at 2 and 24 hours. In contrast, PGE(2) levels were reduced upon stimulation. Allyl isothiocyanate, however, increased PGE(2) levels only at 24 hours, but did not alter LTB(4) levels. In parallel, heat pain thresholds were reduced by both agents after short-term topical application, but only AITC provoked a long-lasting local erythema. In conclusion, the agonist-induced activation of nociceptors by TRPA1 and TRPV1 elicits painful sensations, whereas nonneuronal tissue cells respond with differential release of inflammatory mediators, thus influencing local vasodilatation and neuronal sensitization. These results have implications for the application of transient receptor potential antagonists to improve inflammatory skin conditions and pain management.
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Blatt T, Littarru GP. Biochemical rationale and experimental data on the antiaging properties of CoQ(10) at skin level. Biofactors 2011; 37:381-5. [PMID: 21990001 DOI: 10.1002/biof.169] [Citation(s) in RCA: 24] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Submit a Manuscript] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/18/2011] [Accepted: 04/18/2011] [Indexed: 11/06/2022]
Abstract
Coenzyme Q(10) (CoQ(10) ) is a key component of the mitochondrial respiratory chain and, therefore, is essential for the bioenergetics of oxidative phosphorylation. It is also endowed with antioxidant properties, and recent studies pointed out its capability of affecting the expression of different genes. In this review, we analyze the data on the mechanisms by which CoQ(10) interacts with skin aging processes. The effect of CoQ(10) in preserving mitochondrial function cooperates in maintaining a proper energy level, which serves to prevent the aging skin from switching to anaerobic energy production mechanisms. Furthermore, the antioxidant capacity of CoQ(10) contributes to a positive effect against UV-mediated oxidative stress. Some of these effects have been assessed also in vivo, by the sensitive technique of ultraweak photoemission. Finally, CoQ(10) has been shown to influence, through a gene induction mechanism, the synthesis of some key proteins of the skin and to decrease the expression of some metalloproteinase such as collagenase. These mechanisms may also contribute to preserve collagen content of the skin.
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Affiliation(s)
- Thomas Blatt
- Beiersdorf AG, Research and Development, Hamburg, Germany
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13
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Fischer F, Achterberg V, März A, Puschmann S, Rahn CD, Lutz V, Krüger A, Schwengler H, Jaspers S, Koop U, Blatt T, Wenck H, Gallinat S. Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivo. J Cosmet Dermatol 2011; 10:15-23. [DOI: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00543.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 18] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/07/2023]
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14
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Knott A, Drenckhan A, Denckhan A, Reuschlein K, Lucius R, Döring O, Böttger M, Stäb F, Wenck H, Gallinat S. Decreased fibroblast contractile activity and reduced fibronectin expression are involved in skin photoaging. J Dermatol Sci 2010; 58:75-7. [PMID: 20219324 DOI: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2010.02.004] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/28/2009] [Revised: 01/15/2010] [Accepted: 02/09/2010] [Indexed: 10/19/2022]
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Ou-Yang H, Stamatas G, Kollias N. Dermal contributions to UVA-induced oxidative stress in skin. PHOTODERMATOLOGY PHOTOIMMUNOLOGY & PHOTOMEDICINE 2009; 25:65-70. [DOI: 10.1111/j.1600-0781.2009.00403.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 18] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
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Knott A, Reuschlein K, Mielke H, Wensorra U, Mummert C, Koop U, Kausch M, Kolbe L, Peters N, Stäb F, Wenck H, Gallinat S. NaturalArctium lappafruit extract improves the clinical signs of aging skin. J Cosmet Dermatol 2008; 7:281-9. [DOI: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2008.00407.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 35] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
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Zhai H, Cordoba-Diaz M, Wa C, Hui X, Maibach HI. Determination of the antioxidative capacity of an antioxidant complex and idebenone: an in vitro rapid and sensitive method. J Cosmet Dermatol 2008; 7:96-100. [DOI: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2008.00370.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
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18
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Knott A, Mielke H, Koop U, Wolber R, Burkhardt T, Vietzke JP, Stäb F, Wenck H, Gallinat S. Folic Acid: Cellular Uptake and Penetration into Human Skin. J Invest Dermatol 2007; 127:2463-6. [PMID: 17508025 DOI: 10.1038/sj.jid.5700871] [Citation(s) in RCA: 12] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/09/2022]
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Südel KM, Venzke K, Knußmann-Hartig E, Moll I, Stäb F, Wenck H, Wittern KP, Gercken G, Gallinat S. Tight Control of Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 Activity in Human Skin¶. Photochem Photobiol 2007. [DOI: 10.1562/0031-8655(2003)0780355tcomma2.0.co2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/19/2022]
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Südel KM, Venzke K, Mielke H, Breitenbach U, Mundt C, Jaspers S, Koop U, Sauermann K, KnuBmann-Hartig E, Moll I, Gercken G, Young AR, Stäb F, Wenck H, Gallinat S. Novel Aspects of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Aging of Human Skin: Beneficial Effects of Soy Extract¶. Photochem Photobiol 2007. [DOI: 10.1111/j.1751-1097.2005.tb00229.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 11] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/26/2022]
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Jeanmougin M, Peyron JL, Thomas P, Beani JC, Guez E, Bachot N. Lucite estivale bénigne : prévention par un topique associant des filtres anti-UVA et des antioxydants. Ann Dermatol Venereol 2006; 133:425-8. [PMID: 16760827 DOI: 10.1016/s0151-9638(06)70932-2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/13/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND In a recent randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study, the efficacy of a combination consisting of 0.25% alpha-glucosyl-rutin, 1% vitamin E and a broad-spectrum, highly UVA-protective sunscreen (sun protector factor 15 - persistent pigmentation darkening 6) regarding prevention of polymorphous light eruption was well demonstrated. We evaluated this combination under real solar exposure conditions. PATIENTS AND METHODS Patients with three previous typical polymorphous light eruptions (including one in the last year) were included in an open prospective multicenter study. The preparation was applied every two hours after the first summer exposure. No topical or systemic treatments presumed to be effective against polymorphous light eruption were given concomitantly. Evaluation was performed after the summer by a dermatologist. RESULTS Two of the 54 patients dropped out of the study, one for an adverse effect (contact dermatitis). At the end of the study following application of the test preparation, no eruption was seen for 35 patients (67%), with minor eruption for 10 patients (19%) and an marked eruption for 7 patients (13%). Pruritus (present in all patients the year before) was not seen in 36 patients (69%), was considered bearable for 36 patients and unbearable for only 3 patients compared to 27 before inclusion. For the dermatologists, efficacy was excellent for 35 patients and good for 7 patients, giving global efficacy of around 80%, with inadequate results in 10% of cases (5 patients). Concerning protection against erythema, the test product reduced sunburn by 60% compared with the previous year. DISCUSSION Because of the high clinical efficacy of the product noted after UVA challenge tests and verified by this clinical study under actual conditions of exposure, it may be proposed as a new prophylactic treatment for polymorphous light eruption.
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Affiliation(s)
- M Jeanmougin
- Service de Dermatologie, APHP, Hôpital Saint-Louis, Paris, Université Paris 7 Denis-Diderot.
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Zhai H, Behnam S, Villarama CD, Arens-Corell M, Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Evaluation of the Antioxidant Capacity and Preventive Effects of a Topical Emulsion and Its Vehicle Control on the Skin Response to UV Exposure. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2005; 18:288-93. [PMID: 16145283 DOI: 10.1159/000088014] [Citation(s) in RCA: 22] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/14/2005] [Accepted: 06/29/2005] [Indexed: 11/19/2022]
Abstract
Supplying topical exogenous antioxidants to the skin may prevent or minimize free radical-induced damaging. This study determines antioxidative capacity of a topical skin care emulsion (an oil-in-water vitamin E-containing formulation) versus its vehicle on human skin that was exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) by utilizing a photochemiluminescence device and biophysical methods. Ten healthy Caucasians (3 male and 7 female; mean age 47 +/- 10 years) were enrolled. In a randomized and double-blind manner, a pH-balanced vitamin E emulsion or its vehicle control was applied onto predesignated forearm prior to UVR exposure. Thirty minutes after application, these test sites were exposed to a UV light to induce the minimal erythema dose. One untreated site served as a blank control. Visual scoring and instrumental measurements were recorded at baseline and at 24 h and 48 h thereafter. At day 3, after completing instrumental measurements, each test site was stripped three times in a consecutive manner with a proprietary adhesive tape disc. These tapes were quantified for antioxidant capacity using a photochemiluminescence device. Vitamin E emulsion and vehicle control significantly (p < 0.05) suppressed visual scores when compared with blank control at day 2 and day 3 after UV exposure. However, vitamin E emulsion showed significantly (p < 0.05) lower visual scores when compared with vehicle control at day 2 and day 3 after UV exposure.Also,vitamin E emulsion and its vehicle control significantly (p < 0.05) diminished skin color measurement (a*) values when compared with blank control at day 2 and day 3 after UV exposure. At day 2 after UV exposure, only vitamin E emulsion significantly (p < 0.05) reduced skin blood flow volume when compared with blank control. Vitamin E emulsion and its vehicle control showed significant (p < 0.05) reduction of blood flow volume when compared with blank control at day 3 after UV exposure. Vitamin E emulsion and its vehicle control proved effective in preventing induction of erythema and reducing inflammatory damage caused by UV exposure. The effect of vitamin E emulsion exceeded that of an 'active control'.
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Affiliation(s)
- H Zhai
- Department of Dermatology, School of Medicine, University of California, San Francisco, 94143, USA.
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Blatt T, Lenz H, Koop U, Jaspers S, Weber T, Mummert C, Wittern KP, Stäb F, Wenck H. Stimulation of skin's energy metabolism provides multiple benefits for mature human skin. Biofactors 2005; 25:179-85. [PMID: 16873944 DOI: 10.1002/biof.5520250121] [Citation(s) in RCA: 19] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Submit a Manuscript] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/06/2022]
Abstract
As an organism ages, there is a decline in mitochondrial function and cellular energy balance. This decline is both accelerated by and can cause the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that damage nuclear and mitochondrial DNA, lipid membranes as well as structural and catalytic proteins, especially those involved in energetic pathways of cells. Further, ROS have also been linked to some of the detrimental skin changes that occur as a result of photoaging. We have previously shown that levels of Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), a component of the respiratory chain in mitochondria, are reduced in skin cells from aging donors, and that topical supplementation can ameliorate processes involved in skin aging. Creatine is another important component of the cellular energy system and phosphocreatine, its phosphorylated form, functions as a reservoir for high energy phosphates. Unfortunately the creatine system and thus the energy storage mechanism in skin are negatively affected by aging and conditions of oxidative stress. This article reviews some of our in vivo data about the synergistic effects of combining a stabilized form of Creatine with CoQ10 and clearly depicts their beneficial effects as active ingredients in topical formulations.
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Affiliation(s)
- T Blatt
- R&D, Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany.
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24
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Südel KM, Venzke K, Mielke H, Breitenbach U, Mundt C, Jaspers S, Koop U, Sauermann K, Knußmann-Hartig E, Moll I, Gercken G, Young AR, Stäb F, Wenck H, Gallinat S. Novel Aspects of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Aging of Human Skin: Beneficial Effects of Soy Extract¶. Photochem Photobiol 2005. [DOI: 10.1562/2004-06-16-ra-202.1] [Citation(s) in RCA: 95] [Impact Index Per Article: 5.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/19/2022]
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25
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Hadshiew IM, Treder-Conrad C, v Bülow R, Klette E, Mann T, Stäb F, Moll I, Rippke F. Polymorphous light eruption (PLE) and a new potent antioxidant and UVA-protective formulation as prophylaxis. PHOTODERMATOLOGY PHOTOIMMUNOLOGY & PHOTOMEDICINE 2004; 20:200-4. [PMID: 15238098 DOI: 10.1111/j.1600-0781.2004.00103.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 21] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Polymorphous light eruption (PLE) is the most common photodermatosis. While its etiology still remains elusive, pathogenesis seems to involve UVA-induced oxidative stress and subsequent deregulation of antioxidative immune responses. Only few and often ineffective prophylactic and therapeutic measures exist to date. METHODS In our randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study, we compared the efficacy of a new topical formulation, consisting of 0.25%alpha-glucosylrutin (AGR) (a natural, modified flavonoid), 1% tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) and a broad-spectrum, highly UVA-protective sunscreen (SPF 15) in a hydrodispersion gel vehicle, to a sunscreen-only gel and vehicle. Thirty patients with a history of PLE were pretreated with either the above formulation, a similar preparation (with the same concentration for vitamin E and AGR, but a different UV filter system), placebo or a SPF 15 sunscreen-only gel, 30 min prior to daily photoprovocation with UVA irradiations of 60-100 J/cm(2) to 5 x 5 cm(2) areas on the upper arms. RESULTS After 4 days, results revealed a statistically highly significant difference (P<0.001) between the antioxidant containing formulations and placebo, and sunscreen-only formulation, respectively, in experimentally eliciting PLE. While only one patient developed clinical signs of PLE with accompanying itch in the area treated with the new antioxidant UV-protective gel formulation, 62.1% of the placebo-treated areas and 41.3% of the sunscreen-only treated areas showed mild to moderate signs of PLE. CONCLUSION Combining a potent antioxidant with a broad-spectrum, highly UVA-protective sunscreen is far more effective in preventing PLE than sunscreen alone or placebo and should thus be employed as the prophylaxis of choice for PLE.
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Affiliation(s)
- I M Hadshiew
- Department of Dermatology and Venerology, University Hospital Hamburg-Eppendorf, Martinistrasse 52, 20246 Hamburg, Germany.
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26
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Wolber R, Stäb F, Max H, Wehmeyer A, Hadshiew I, Wenck H, Rippke F, Wittern KP. Alpha-Glucosylrutin: ein hochwirksames Flavonoid zum Schutz vor oxidativem Stress. Alpha-glucosylrutin, a highly effective flavonoid for protection against oxidative stress. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges 2004; 2:580-7. [PMID: 16281620 DOI: 10.1046/j.1439-0353.2004.04052.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 7] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/20/2022]
Abstract
The flavonoid alpha-glucosylrutin (AGR) is a potent antioxidant with a high epidermal bioavailability. This makes this substance particularly suitable for various dermato-cosmetic applications. Flavonoids are phytamines with a common chemical structure and a broad range of activities, the most prominent being their radical scavenging ability. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) damage cells by different mechanisms. Direct cytotoxic effects include destruction of the cell membrane by causing radical chain reactions or induction of mutagenic changes in the nuclear and mitochondrial DNA. Indirect changes involve modification of intracellular signal transduction pathways that regulate inflammatory or proliferative activities. The excellent antioxidant efficacy of AGR has been shown in various experimental studies, both in vitro and in vivo. Subsequent clinical studies have demonstrated that AGR is also effective in the prevention of dermatologic diseases in which oxidative stress is of pathogenetic relevance, e.g. in polymorphous light eruption (PLE). Other promising dermato-cosmetic areas for AGR application are aging of the skin, especially photoaging. All in vivo evaluations indicate that AGR in the applied concentrations is a very well-tolerated ingredient for medical skin care preparations.
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27
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Ou-Yang H, Stamatas G, Saliou C, Kollias N. A chemiluminescence study of UVA-induced oxidative stress in human skin in vivo. J Invest Dermatol 2004; 122:1020-9. [PMID: 15102093 DOI: 10.1111/j.0022-202x.2004.22405.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 77] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
Abstract
Oxidative stress is defined as an imbalance between pro-oxidants and antioxidants in favor of pro-oxidants. Photon emission (also called chemiluminescence) has been widely used to study oxidative stress in biological systems in vitro. In vivo chemiluminescence has been proposed as a non-invasive method to assess oxidative stress in the skin. UVA (320-400 nm part of the ultraviolet radiation) exposure is generally accepted as a source of oxidative stress in the skin. In this study, UVA-induced oxidative stress was studied by using an in vivo chemiluminescence detection method. First, the dose response and the fluence rate response of the UVA-induced oxidative stress in human skin were investigated by examining the decay kinetics of the chemiluminescence signal following UVA exposure. A kinetic model was proposed to help differentiate these two responses. We found that the initial burst of the chemiluminescence signal depended on the UVA fluence rate, whereas the decay of the signal following exposure can be related to the UVA dose involved. Second, a significant reduction of UVA-induced chemiluminescence signal was observed after tape-stripping, indicating that stratum corneum is a major source of UVA-induced oxidative stress in the skin. Furthermore, the oxygen dependence of UVA-induced chemiluminescence signal was also confirmed by application of a pressure cuff, implying that some of the oxidative stress occurs in the deeper layers of the skin. Finally, topical application of vitamin C before exposure significantly reduced the UVA-induced chemiluminescence signal. We thus conclude that chemiluminescence is an effective method to assess the oxidative stress induced by UVA in human skin in vivo.
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Affiliation(s)
- Hao Ou-Yang
- Models and Methods Development, Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, New Jersey 08558, USA
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28
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Südel KM, Venzke K, Knussmann-Hartig E, Moll I, Stäb F, Wenck H, Wittern KP, Gercken G, Gallinat S. Tight control of matrix metalloproteinase-1 activity in human skin. Photochem Photobiol 2004; 78:355-60. [PMID: 14626663 DOI: 10.1562/0031-8655(2003)078<0355:tcomma>2.0.co;2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 32] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/19/2022]
Abstract
Chronic ultraviolet irradiation leads to photoaging in human skin, which is associated with degradation of connective tissue. This is partly due to the fibroblast collagenase (matrix metalloproteinase 1 [MMP-1]). Using complementary DNA array technique we demonstrate that after UV irradiation, MMP-1, MMP-3 and the tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 (TIMP-1) are time-dependently induced on the messenger RNA level in dermal fibroblasts in vitro and in vivo in human buttock skin. This increase in gene expression is paralleled by an increase of latent and active MMP-1 protein after low-dose UV-A exposure in vitro. In vivo the concentration of latent MMP-1 in suction blister fluids peaks 24 h after irradiation with 2 minimal erythema doses of solar simulated radiation. However, only a small proportion of MMP-1 in vitro (5.5 +/- 1.5%) and in vivo is active, whereas the majority of MMP-1 remains in its inactive proform. Interestingly, in suction blister fluid the concentration and duration of TIMP-1 expression exceeds that of MMP-1. Taken together, these data indicate that MMP-1 activity is tightly regulated transcriptionally and posttranscriptionally. Furthermore, the pronounced individual differences in all targets investigated provide a possible explanation for the different susceptibility of individuals to UV exposure and, thus, to the clinical features of photodamage.
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Affiliation(s)
- Kirstin M Südel
- Beiersdorf AG, Paul Gerson Unna Skin Research Center, Unnastr. 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany
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29
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Zhai H, Choi MJ, Arens-Corell M, Neudecker BA, Maibach HI. A rapid, accurate, and facile method to quantify the antioxidative capacity of topical formulations. Skin Res Technol 2003; 9:254-6. [PMID: 12877687 DOI: 10.1034/j.1600-0846.2003.00032.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/23/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND/AIMS Various methodologies have been developed to quantify antioxidant activity. A simple, rapid and accurate method is demanded. This study examined the antioxidative status of a pH balanced vitamin E containing formulation versus its vehicle control utilizing a photochemiluminescence device. METHODS/RESULTS A pH balanced 5% Vitamin E containing formulation and its vehicle control were tested. The quantity of antioxidant capacity for the pH balanced vitamin E formulation and its vehicle control were 2.28 +/- 0.05 and 0.16 +/- 0.03, respectively. The pH balanced vitamin E formulation showed a significant (P < 0.001) higher antioxidant capacity compared to its vehicle control. CONCLUSIONS This method not only provides quantitative data, but also is rapid, accurate, and facile in performance. The in vitro data obtained in this study require validation by in vivo studies to properly place them in context to alternate methods.
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Affiliation(s)
- Hongbo Zhai
- Department of Dermatology, University of California San Francisco, CA 94143-0989, USA
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30
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Hantke B, Lahmann C, Venzke K, Fischer T, Kocourek A, Windsor LJ, Bergemann J, Stäb F, Tschesche H. Influence of flavonoids and vitamins on the MMP- and TIMP-expression of human dermal fibroblasts after UVA irradiation. Photochem Photobiol Sci 2002; 1:826-33. [PMID: 12656486 DOI: 10.1039/b207731k] [Citation(s) in RCA: 34] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/21/2022]
Abstract
UV irradiation leads to distinct changes in skin connective tissue by degradation of collagen, for example. Many of these alterations in the extracellular matrix are mediated by MMPs (matrix metalloproteinases) with reduced content of their antagonist TIMPs (tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases). Potential candidates to reduce MMP activity in the skin after solar stimulation were examined. The influence of vitamin C, vitamin E and the flavonoids AGR (alpha-glucosylrutin) and 8-prenylnaringenine on the MMP and TIMP expression was investigated. Human dermal fibroblasts were incubated with these additives and irradiated with UVA [10 J cm(-2)]. The gene expression of MMP-1 (collagenase-1) and TIMP-1, the protein expression of MMP-1, MMP-2 (gelatinase-A), TIMP-1 and TIMP-2 as well as the enzyme activity of MMP-1 and MMP-2 were examined. AGR and vitamins C and E were shown to reduce MMP expression and activity, whereas 8-prenylnaringenine appeared to be responsible for the opposite effect. None of the substances considerably influenced the TIMP levels. AGR represented the most effective additive in reducing the collagenase protein expression to 60% and may be useful to level out the MMP activity in the skin after sun exposure. Furthermore, no protein expression of MMP-8, MMP-9, MMP-12 and MMP-13 could be detected.
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Affiliation(s)
- Bernd Hantke
- Department of Chemistry, Biochemistry I, University of Bielefeld, Bielefeld, Germany
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31
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Kessler M, Ubeaud G, Walter T, Sturm F, Jung L. Free radical scavenging and skin penetration of troxerutin and vitamin derivatives. J DERMATOL TREAT 2002; 13:133-41. [PMID: 12227877 DOI: 10.1080/09546630260199505] [Citation(s) in RCA: 29] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/27/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND By its 'protective function', human skin is a potential target for the production of free radicals. The role played by topically applied antioxidants as inhibitors of oxidative stress damage was felt to be worth investigation. OBJECTIVE To investigate the free radical scavenging (superoxide, hydroxyl and peroxyl radicals) and skin penetration of troxerutin in association with ascorbyl palmitate and alpha-tocopheryl succinate, esters of two vitamins commonly used in skin care products. METHODS The compounds' scavenging activities, in a concentration-dependent manner, were as follows: hydroxyl radicals in a Fenton-based assay; superoxide radicals in a hypoxanthine/xanthine oxidase system; and lipid peroxidation inhibition of liver microsomes was induced by 2,2'-azobis-(2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride (ABAP). RESULTS A synergic action was observed between alpha-tocopheryl succinate and troxerutin for hydroxyl radical scavenging, between the three compounds for superoxide scavenging and between troxerutin and ascorbyl palmitate in lipid peroxidation inhibition. CONCLUSION Using a stripping method, it was shown that the three substances, incorporated in a pharmaceutical preparation, permeated through human epidermis. Thus, this association can improve skin care products for preventing free radical-mediated damage.
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Affiliation(s)
- M Kessler
- Laboratoire de Chimie Thérapeutique, Faculté de pharmacie de Strasbourg, Illkirch, France.
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32
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Damiani E, Castagna R, Greci L. The effects of derivatives of the nitroxide tempol on UVA-mediated in vitro lipid and protein oxidation. Free Radic Biol Med 2002; 33:128-36. [PMID: 12086690 DOI: 10.1016/s0891-5849(02)00876-6] [Citation(s) in RCA: 25] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Submit a Manuscript] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/23/2022]
Abstract
Derivatives of tetramethylpiperidines are extensively employed in polymers to prevent photooxidation, and their stabilizing effect is attributed to the activity of the nitroxide radical derived from the parent amine. In this study, we examined the photoprotective effect of a commercial polymer photostabilizer, HALS-1, its corresponding nitroxide, bis(2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-piperidine-1-oxyl-4-yl)sebacate (TINO), and two derivatives of the piperidine nitroxide TEMPOL, 2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-piperidin-4-acetyloxy-1-oxyl (TEMP2) and 2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-piperidin-4-octanoyloxy-1-oxyl (TEMP8) synthesized by us, in liposomes exposed to ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation. For comparison, the UVA-absorber, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) used in many suncream formulations, was also included. The nitroxide TINO resulted extremely efficient at inhibiting aldehydic breakdown products deriving from 30 min exposure of liposomes to UVA and the protection was dose-dependent (10-100 microM). The corresponding amine HALS-1 was the least efficient while protection increased in the order: TEMP2 < Parsol 1789 < TEMP 8. HALS-1, TINO, and the two TEMPOL derivatives were also tested in a simple protein system consisting of bovine serum albumin (BSA) exposed to UVA. In this case, these compounds did not inhibit nor enhance UVA-mediated protein carbonyl formation in BSA. The differences in protection between the compounds are discussed in relation to their chemical reactivity, UVA-absorbing capacities, and their molecular structure. Overall, the results obtained envisage the potential use of nitroxide compounds as topical antioxidants.
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Affiliation(s)
- Elisabetta Damiani
- Dipartimento di Scienze dei Materiali e della Terra, Università di Ancona, Ancona, Italy.
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