Botanicals as topical agents

Carbon dots prepared from citric acid and urea by microwave-assisted irradiation as a turn-on fluorescent probe for allantoin determination

Carbon dots from citric acid and urea as a fluorescent probe for sensitive and selective detection of allantoin.

Control of canine idiopathic nasal hyperkeratosis with a natural skin restorative balm: a randomized double-blind placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Nasal hyperkeratosis may cause discomfort in dogs by predisposing them to fissures and secondary bacterial infection. Approaches to treatment have been described anecdotally; the effectiveness of such therapies remains unproven.

HYPOTHESIS/OBJECTIVES

To investigate the efficacy of a balm containing essential oils and essential fatty acids in dogs with idiopathic nasal hyperkeratosis.

ANIMALS

Client-owned dogs with noncomplicated nasal hyperkeratosis.

METHODS

The study was conducted as a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial with parallel group design and two month follow-up period. Dogs received daily topical application of a commercial balm product (group DBB) or placebo (aqueous gelling agent with preservatives, group PB). The main outcome variables were lichenification, dryness, suppleness and extent of lesions. Subjective owner satisfaction index score was a secondary variable. Evaluation was performed on days (D)0, 30 and 60. Response to treatment was assessed as the change from baseline to each examination day for each criterion.

RESULTS

Forty eight dogs, principally French (26 of 48) and English (seven of 48) bulldogs, were included and 39 completed the study. No major adverse events were reported. On D60, changes from baseline for lichenification, lesion extent, suppleness and total score were -31.2%, -18.3%, -72.8% and -36.8% in group DBB (23 dogs) and -11.9%, 2.3%, -42.1% and -14% in group PB (16 dogs), respectively. The total score was significantly improved on D60 in group DBB compared to PB (Wilcoxon-Mann-Whitney U-test, P = 0.0016).

CONCLUSIONS AND CLINICAL IMPORTANCE

The balm proved safe and helpful in managing canine idiopathic noncomplicated nasal hyperkeratosis.

Efficacy evaluation of a multifunctional cosmetic formulation: the benefits of a combination of active antioxidant substances

This study presents the association of active antioxidants substances in a multifunctional cosmetic formulation with established efficacy against signs of aging. A multifunctional cosmetic formulation containing an association of UV filters and antioxidant substances (liposoluble vitamins A, C and E, Ginkgo biloba and Phorphyra umbilicalis extracts) was evaluated. This formulation was submitted to a clinical efficacy study using biophysics techniques and skin images analysis (digital photography imaging systems, 20 MHz ultrasound, and reflectance confocal microscopy). The volunteers applied the formulation containing the UV filters and antioxidant substances during the day and the formulation with antioxidant substances and without the UV filters at night, for 90 days. The formulation increased the hydration and protected the skin barrier function after a single application. At the long term assessment the formulation provided an improvement in skin barrier function and skin hydration to the deeper layers of the epidermis, leading to an improvement in skin appearance by reducing wrinkles and skin roughness. The multifunctional cosmetic formulation studied can be suggested to preventing signs of aging and improving skin conditions. In addition, this study presents the benefits of associating different active antioxidants substances in a single cosmetic formulation to prevent skin aging.

Development and validation of a method for allantoin determination in liposomes and pharmaceutical formulations

The aim of this work was to develop and validate an ultraviolet derivative spectrophotometric (UVDS) method for the quantitative determination of allantoin (ALL) in liposomes, gels and creams. Liposomes were prepared by methods of thin film hydration and mechanical agitation. Solutions of ALL in 0.1 mol/L NaOH with ethanol:water (70:30, v/v) were prepared in order to destroy liposome vesicles. Spectral interference from components of liposomes, cream, gel and ALL degradation products was eliminated using the second-order derivative of the zero-order spectrum. Characterization of ALL in 0.1 mol/L NaOH was carried out by direct infusion mass spectrometry. Absorbances of ALL solutions were measured at 266.6 nm of the second-derivative spectrum and linearity was observed in the ALL concentration range of 50-300 μgmL(-1) (correlation coefficient (r)=0.9961). The mean recovery percentage was 100.68 ± 1.61, repeatability expressed as relative standard deviation (RSD) was 1.07 and 2.12%, and intermediate precision (RSD) was 2.16%. The proposed UVDS method was found to be linear, precise, accurate, robust and selective, providing rapid and specific determination of ALL in raw materials and in topical formulations.

In vitro Comparison of Light-Emitting Diodes and Carnosic Acid Effects on Keratinocyte Proliferation and Wound Healing

Introduction:

Light-emitting diode (LED) therapy uses different wavelengths of light and has been reported to accelerate cutaneous wound healing. Carnosic acid is an antioxidant that is also thought to be photoprotective. We designed an in vitro study to examine the effects of LED and carnosic acid on the proliferation and migration of human keratinocytes.

Materials and Methods:

Clinically normal human keratinocytes were cultured and exposed to two wavelengths: 620 nm and 660 nm LED at different fluences. In the second part of this study, a different batch of human keratinocytes was grown in culture, and different concentrations of carnosic acid were added.

Results:

At the two wavelengths that were used, LED did not appear to have any therapeutic effect and was not effective in stimulating keratinocyte proliferation. Exposure to greater energy levels (increased fluence) produced increased cell damage that was directly proportional to the increase in energy. On the other hand, treatment of the cell cultures with the antioxidant carnosic acid resulted in an increase of keratinocyte cell proliferation, and this increase was also proportional to the concentration of carnosic acid.

Conclusions:

This study did not support the hypothesis that LED treatment results in keratinocyte proliferation; however, carnosic acid, a potent antioxidant, stimulated keratinocyte production and could be implicated in wound healing and rejuvenation.

Green tea and the skin

Plant extracts have been widely used as topical applications for wound-healing, anti-aging, and disease treatments. Examples of these include ginkgo biloba, echinacea, ginseng, grape seed, green tea, lemon, lavender, rosemary, thuja, sarsaparilla, soy, prickly pear, sagebrush, jojoba, aloe vera, allantoin, feverwort, bloodroot, apache plume, and papaya. These plants share a common character: they all produce flavonoid compounds with phenolic structures. These phytochemicals are highly reactive with other compounds, such as reactive oxygen species and biologic macromolecules, to neutralize free radicals or initiate biological effects. A short list of phenolic phytochemicals with promising properties to benefit human health includes a group of polyphenol compounds, called catechins, found in green tea. This article summarizes the findings of studies using green tea polyphenols as chemopreventive, natural healing, and anti-aging agents for human skin, and discusses possible mechanisms of action.

Cosmetic allergy: incidence, diagnosis, and management

A recent epidemiologic survey in the UK revealed that 23% of women and 13.8% of men experience some sort of adverse reaction to a personal care product over the course of a year. Although most of these reactions may be due to subjective sensory irritation, various studies reveal that up to 10% of dermatologic patients who are patch tested are allergic to cosmetic products or their constituent ingredients. Causative products include deodorants and perfumes, skin care products, hair care products, and nail cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis mainly results from fragrance chemicals and preservatives. Recent work has suggested that additional fragrance chemicals may need to be tested in order to identify those patients 'missed' by the current fragrance mix; in particular, hydroxy-isohexyl-3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (HMPPC Lyral) has been singled out as an important sensitizing agent. The increased usage of natural fragrances and botanic extracts can also cause problems in their own right or through co-reactivity. The preservative methyldibromo glutaronitrile has also been recognized as an increasingly important sensitizer in Europe, which has led to the recent recommendation that it should be prohibited from 'leave-on' products until information on 'safe' consumer levels becomes available. Other emerging allergens include UV filters, tosylamide/formaldehyde resin, and nail acrylates. The diagnosis of cosmetic allergy should be confirmed with patch testing, including testing of 'whole' products, when necessary, and repeat open application tests can be used to confirm the relevance of reactions in cases of doubt.