Increased Presence of Monounsaturated Fatty Acids in the Stratum Corneum of Human Skin Equivalents

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

The effect of PPAR isoform (de)activation on the lipid composition in full-thickness skin models

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are 3D-cultured human skin models that mimic many aspects of native human skin (NHS). Although HSEs resemble NHS very closely, the barrier located in the stratum corneum (SC) is impaired. This is caused by an altered lipid composition in the SC of HSEs compared with NHS. One of the most pronounced changes in this lipid composition is a high level of monounsaturation. One key enzyme in this change is stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD1), which catalyses the monounsaturation of lipids. In order to normalize the lipid composition, we aimed to target a group of nuclear receptors that are important regulators in the lipid synthesis. This group of receptors are known as the peroxisome proliferating activating receptors (PPARs). By (de)activating each isoform (PPAR-α, PPAR-δ and PPAR-γ), the PPAR isoforms may have normalizing effects on the lipid composition. In addition, another PPAR-α agonist Wy14643 was included as this supplement demonstrated normalizing effects in the lipid composition in a more recent study. After PPAR (ant)agonists supplementation, the mRNA of downstream targets, lipid synthesis genes and lipid composition were investigated. The PPAR downstream targets were activated, indicating that the supplements reached the keratinocytes to trigger their effect. However, minimal impact was observed on the lipid composition after PPAR isoform (de) activation. Only the highest concentration Wy14643 resulted in strong, but negative effects on CER composition. Although the novel tested modifications did not result in an improvement, more insight is gained on the nuclear receptors PPARs and their effects on the lipid barrier in full-thickness skin models.

Research Techniques Made Simple: Lipidomic Analysis in Skin Research

Although lipids are crucial molecules for cell structure, metabolism, and signaling in most organs, they have additional specific functions in the skin. Lipids are required for the maintenance and regulation of the epidermal barrier, physical properties of the skin, and defense against microbes. Analysis of the lipidome-the totality of lipids-is of similar complexity to those of proteomics or other omics, with lipid structures ranging from simple, linear, to highly complex structures. In addition, the ordering and chemical modifications of lipids have consequences on their biological function, especially in the skin. Recent advances in analytic capability (usually with mass spectrometry), bioinformatic processing, and integration with other dermatological big data have allowed researchers to increasingly understand the roles of specific lipid species in skin biology. In this paper, we review the techniques used to analyze skin lipidomics and epilipidomics.

Docosahexaenoic Acid Modulates Paracellular Absorption of Testosterone and Claudin-1 Expression in a Tissue-Engineered Skin Model

Healthy skin moLEdels produced by tissue-engineering often present a suboptimal skin barrier function as compared with normal human skin. Moreover, skin substitutes reconstructed according to the self-assembly method were found to be deficient in polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs). Therefore, in this study, we investigated the effects of a supplementation of the culture media with docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) on the barrier function of skin substitutes. To this end, 10 μM DHA-supplemented skin substitutes were produced (n = 3), analyzed, and compared with controls (substitutes without supplementation). A Franz cell diffusion system, followed by ultra-performance liquid chromatography, was used to perform a skin permeability to testosterone assay. We then used gas chromatography to quantify the PUFAs found in the epidermal phospholipid fraction of the skin substitutes, which showed successful DHA incorporation. The permeability to testosterone was decreased following DHA supplementation and the lipid profile was improved. Differences in the expression of the tight junction (TJ) proteins claudin-1, claudin-4, occludin, and TJ protein-1 were observed, principally a significant increase in claudin-1 expression, which was furthermore confirmed by Western blot analyses. In conclusion, these results confirm that the DHA supplementation of cell culture media modulates different aspects of skin barrier function in vitro and reflects the importance of n-3 PUFAs regarding the lipid metabolism in keratinocytes.

Human skin equivalents: Impaired barrier function in relation to the lipid and protein properties of the stratum corneum

To advance drug development representative reliable skin models are indispensable. Animal skin as test model for human skin delivery is restricted as their properties greatly differ from human skin. In vitro 3D-human skin equivalents (HSEs) are valuable tools as they recapitulate important aspects of the human skin. However, HSEs still lack the full barrier functionality as observed in native human skin, resulting in suboptimal screening outcome. In this review we provide an overview of established in-house and commercially available HSEs and discuss in more detail to what extent their skin barrier biology is mimicked in vitro focusing on the lipid properties and cornified envelope. Further, we will illustrate how underlying factors, such as culture medium improvements and environmental factors affect the barrier lipids. Lastly, potential improvements in skin barrier function will be proposed aiming at a new generation of HSEs that may replace animal skin delivery studies fully.

Multitargeted Approach for the Optimization of Morphogenesis and Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

In vitro skin tissue engineering is challenging due to the manifold differences between the in vivo and in vitro conditions. Yet, three-dimensional (3D) human skin equivalents (HSEs) are able to mimic native human skin in many fundamental aspects. However, the epidermal lipid barrier formation, which is essential for the functionality of the skin barrier, remains compromised. Recently, HSEs with an improved lipid barrier formation were generated by (i) incorporating chitosan in the dermal collagen matrix, (ii) reducing the external oxygen level to 3%, and (iii) inhibiting the liver X receptor (LXR). In this study, we aimed to determine the synergic effects in full-thickness models (FTMs) with combinations of these factors as single-, double-, and triple-targeted optimization approaches. The collagen–chitosan FTM supplemented with the LXR inhibitor showed improved epidermal morphogenesis, an enhanced lipid composition, and a better lipid organization. Importantly, barrier functionality was improved in the corresponding approach. In conclusion, our leading optimization approach substantially improved the epidermal morphogenesis, barrier formation, and functionality in the FTM, which therefore better resembled native human skin.

Human pluripotent stem cells: An alternative for 3D in vitro modelling of skin disease

To effectively study the skin and its pathology, various platforms have been used to date, with in vitro 3D skin models being considered the future gold standard. These models have generally been engineered from primary cell lines. However, their short life span leading to the use of various donors, imposes issues with genetic variation. Human pluripotent stem cell (hPSC)-technology holds great prospects as an alternative to the use of primary cell lines to study the pathophysiology of human skin diseases. This is due to their potential to generate an unlimited number of genetically identical skin models that closely mimic the complexity of in vivo human skin. During the past decade, researchers have therefore started to use human embryonic and induced pluripotent stem cells (hESC/iPSC) to derive skin resident-like cells and components. These have subsequently been used to engineer hPSC-derived 3D skin models. In this review, we focus on the advantages, recent developments, and future perspectives in using hPSCs as an alternative cell source for modelling human skin diseases in vitro.

Improved organotypic skin model with reduced quantity of monounsaturated ceramides by inhibiting stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1

Full thickness models (FTM) are 3D in vitro skin cultures that resemble the native human skin (NHS) to a great extent. However, the barrier function of these skin models is reduced. The skin barrier is located in the stratum corneum (SC) and consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. In this matrix, deviations in the composition of the FTMs lipid matrix may contribute to the impaired skin barrier when compared to NHS. One of the most abundant changes in lipid composition is an increase in monounsaturated lipids for which stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD-1) is responsible. To improve the SC lipid composition, we reduced SCD-1 activity during the generation of the FTMs. These FTMs were subsequently assessed on all major aspects, including epidermal homeostasis, lipid composition, lipid organization, and barrier functionality. We demonstrate that SCD-1 inhibition was successful and resulted in FTMs that better mimic the lipid composition of FTMs to NHS by a significant reduction in monounsaturated lipids. In conclusion, this study demonstrates an effective approach to normalize SC monounsaturated lipid concentration and may be a valuable tool in further optimizing the FTMs in future studies.

Impact of airborne particulate matter on skin: a systematic review from epidemiology to in vitro studies

BACKGROUND

Air pollution is killing close to 5 million people a year, and harming billions more. Air pollution levels remain extremely high in many parts of the world, and air pollution-associated premature deaths have been reported for urbanized areas, particularly linked to the presence of airborne nano-sized and ultrafine particles.

MAIN TEXT

To date, most of the research studies did focus on the adverse effects of air pollution on the human cardiovascular and respiratory systems. Although the skin is in direct contact with air pollutants, their damaging effects on the skin are still under investigation. Epidemiological data suggested a correlation between exposure to air pollutants and aggravation of symptoms of chronic immunological skin diseases. In this study, a systematic literature review was conducted to understand the current knowledge on the effects of airborne particulate matter on human skin. It aims at providing a deeper understanding of the interactions between air pollutants and skin to further assess their potential risks for human health.

CONCLUSION

Particulate matter was shown to induce a skin barrier dysfunction and provoke the formation of reactive oxygen species through direct and indirect mechanisms, leading to oxidative stress and induced activation of the inflammatory cascade in human skin. Moreover, a positive correlation was reported between extrinsic aging and atopic eczema relative risk with increasing particulate matter exposure.

Contribution of Palmitic Acid to Epidermal Morphogenesis and Lipid Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

The outermost barrier layer of the skin is the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. Biosynthesis of barrier lipids occurs de novo in the epidermis or is performed with externally derived lipids. Hence, in vitro developed human skin equivalents (HSEs) are developed with culture medium that is supplemented with free fatty acids (FFAs). Nevertheless, the lipid barrier formation in HSEs remains altered compared to native human skin (NHS). The aim of this study is to decipher the role of medium supplemented saturated FFA palmitic acid (PA) on morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, HSEs were developed with 100% (25 μM), 10%, or 1% PA. In HSEs supplemented with reduced PA level, the early differentiation was delayed and epidermal activation was increased. Nevertheless, a similar SC lipid composition in all HSEs was detected. Additionally, the lipid organization was comparable for lamellar and lateral organization, irrespective of PA concentration. As compared to NHS, the level of monounsaturated lipids was increased and the FFA to ceramide ratio was drastically reduced in HSEs. This study describes the crucial role of PA in epidermal morphogenesis and elucidates the role of PA in lipid barrier formation of HSEs.

The effects of LXR agonist T0901317 and LXR antagonist GSK2033 on morphogenesis and lipid properties in full thickness skin models

Full thickness models (FTMs) are 3D-cultured human skin models that mimic many aspects of native human skin (NHS). However, their stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition differs from NHS causing a reduced skin barrier. The most pronounced differences in lipid composition are a reduction in lipid chain length and increased monounsaturated lipids. The liver-X-receptor (LXR) activates the monounsaturated lipid synthesis via stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD-1). Therefore, the aim was to improve the SC lipid synthesis of FTMs by LXR deactivation. This was achieved by supplementing culture medium with LXR antagonist GSK2033. LXR agonist T0901317 was added for comparison. Subsequently, epidermal morphogenesis, lipid composition, lipid organization and the barrier functionality of these FTMs were assessed. We demonstrate that LXR deactivation resulted in a lipid composition with increased overall chain lengths and reduced levels of monounsaturation, whereas LXR activation increased the amount of monounsaturated lipids and led to a reduction in the overall chain length. However, these changes did not affect the barrier functionality. In conclusion, LXR deactivation led to the development of FTMs with improved lipid properties, which mimic the lipid composition of NHS more closely. These novel findings may contribute to design interventions to normalize SC lipid composition of atopic dermatitis patients.

Phytosphingosine Increases Biosynthesis of Phytoceramide by Uniquely Stimulating the Expression of Dihydroceramide C4-desaturase (DES2) in Cultured Human Keratinocytes

Ceramide NP is known to be the most abundant class of 12 ceramide (CER) families that form a permeability barrier in the human skin barrier. However, not many studies have been reported on the regulation of the biosynthesis of ceramide NP. Recently, it has been reported that phytosphingosine (PHS) treatment in the cultured keratinocytes (KC) notably increased the content of ceramide NP. However, the mechanism behind the PHS-induced enhancement of ceramide NP has not been elucidated. In this study, we investigated the effects of PHS on the expression of several essential genes for the biosynthesis of CER. Also, we determined the molecular mechanism behind the unique enhancement of ceramide NP upon treatment of PHS in the cultured KC. The expressions of all of the three genes (SPT, ceramide synthase 3 [CERS3], and ELOVL4) and their respective proteins were markedly increased in PHS-treated KC. In addition, the expression of the dihydroceramide C4-desaturase (DES2) responsible for conversion of dihydroceramide into ceramide NP was uniquely enhanced only by PHS treatment. Liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) analysis revealed that more than 20-fold increase of ceramide NP by PHS was observed while no significant enhancement of ceramide NS and NDS was observed. This study demonstrates that PHS plays a fundamental role in strengthening the epidermal permeability barrier by stimulating the overall processes of biosynthesis of all classes of CER in epidermis. The dramatic increase of ceramide NP upon PHS treatment seemed to be the outcome of transformation of dihydroceramide and/or ceramide NS by C4-hydroxylase activity.

Unravelling effects of relative humidity on lipid barrier formation in human skin equivalents

Relative humidity (RH) levels vary continuously in vivo, although during in vitro generation of three-dimensional human skin equivalents (HSEs) these remain high (90-95%) to prevent evaporation of the cell-culture medium. However, skin functionality is directly influenced by environmental RH. As the barrier formation in HSEs is different, there is a need to better understand the role of cell-culture conditions during the generation of HSEs. In this study, we aim to investigate the effects of RH on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, two types of HSEs were developed at 90% or at 60% RH. Assessments were performed to determine epidermal morphogenesis by immunohistochemical analyses, ceramide composition by lipidomic analysis, and lipid organization by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and small-angle X-ray diffraction. We show that reduction of RH mainly affected the uppermost viable epidermal layers in the HSEs, including an enlargement of the granular cells and induction of epidermal cell activation. Neither the composition nor the organization of the lipids in the intercorneocyte space were substantially altered at reduced RH. In addition, lipid processing from glucosylceramides to ceramides was not affected by reduced RH in HSEs as shown by enzyme expression, enzyme activity, and substrate-to-product ratio. Our results demonstrate that RH directly influences epidermal morphogenesis, albeit the in vitro lipid barrier formation is comparable at 90% and 60% RH.

Human skin equivalents cultured under hypoxia display enhanced epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are three-dimensional cell models mimicking characteristics of native human skin (NHS) in many aspects. However, a limitation of HSEs is the altered in vitro morphogenesis and barrier formation. Differences between in vitro and in vivo skin could have been induced by suboptimal cell culture conditions, of which the level of oxygen in vitro (20%) is much higher than in vivo (0.5-8%). Our aim is to study how external oxygen levels affect epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs. In the present study, fibroblast and keratinocyte monocultures, and HSEs were generated under 20% (normoxia) and 3% (hypoxia) oxygen level. In all cultures under hypoxia, expression of hypoxia-inducible factor target genes was increased. Characterization of HSEs generated under hypoxia using immunohistochemical analyses of morphogenesis biomarkers revealed a reduction in epidermal thickness, reduced proliferation, similar early differentiation, and an attenuated terminal differentiation program compared to normoxia, better mimicking NHS. The stratum corneum ceramide composition was studied with liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. Under hypoxia, HSEs exhibited a ceramide composition that more closely resembles that of NHS. Consequently, the lipid organization was improved. In conclusion, epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs reconstructed under hypoxia better mimics that of NHS.

Characterization of human skin equivalents developed at body's core and surface temperatures

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are in vitro developed three‐dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) to a high extent. However, the epidermal lipid biosynthesis, barrier lipid composition, and organization are altered, leading to an elevated diffusion rate of therapeutic molecules. The altered lipid barrier formation in HSEs may be induced by standardized culture conditions, including a culture temperature of 37°C, which is dissimilar to skin surface temperature. Therefore, we aim to determine the influence of culture temperature during the generation of full thickness models (FTMs) on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation. For this purpose, FTMs were developed at conventional core temperature (37°C) or lower temperatures (35°C and 33°C) and evaluated over a time period of 4 weeks. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition was analysed using advanced liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analysis. Our results show that SC layers accumulated at a similar rate irrespective of culture temperature. At reduced culture temperature, an increased epidermal thickness, a disorganization of the lower epidermal cell layers, a delayed early differentiation, and an enlargement of granular cells were detected. Interestingly, melanogenesis was reduced at lower temperature. The ceramide subclass profile, chain length distribution, and level of unsaturated ceramides were similar in FTMs generated at 37°C and 35°C but changed when generated at 33°C, reducing the resemblance to NHS. Herein, we report that culture temperature affects epidermal morphogenesis substantially and to a lesser extent the lipid barrier formation, highlighting the importance of optimized external parameters during reconstruction of skin.

Selectivity in cornified envelop binding of ceramides in human skin and the role of LXR inactivation on ceramide binding

The cornified lipid envelope (CLE) is a lipid monolayer covalently bound to the outside of corneocytes and is part of the stratum corneum (SC). The CLE is suggested to act as a scaffold for the unbound SC lipids. By profiling the bound CLE ceramides, a new subclass was discovered and identified as an omega-hydroxylated dihydrosphingosine (OdS) ceramide. Bound glucosylceramides were observed in superficial SC layers of healthy human skin. To investigate the relation between bound and unbound SC ceramides, the composition of both fractions was analyzed and compared. Selectivity in ceramide binding towards unsaturated ceramides and ceramides with a shorter chain length was observed. The selectivity in ceramide species bound to the cornified envelope is thought to have a physiological function in corneocyte flexibility. Next, it was examined if skin models exhibit an altered bound ceramide composition and if the composition was dependent on liver X-receptor (LXR) activation. The effects of an LXR agonist and antagonist on the bound ceramides composition of a full thickness model (FTM) were analyzed. In FTMs, a decreased amount of bound ceramides was observed compared to native human skin. Furthermore, FTMs had a bound ceramide fraction which consisted mostly of unsaturated and shorter ceramides. The LXR antagonist had a normalizing effect on the FTM bound ceramide composition. The agonist exhibited minimal effects. We show that ceramide binding is a selective process, yet, still is contingent on lipid synthesized.

Shedding light on the effects of 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D3 on epidermal lipid barrier formation in three-dimensional human skin equivalents

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are three dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) in many aspects. Despite the manifold similarities to NHS, a restriction in its applications is the altered in vitro lipid barrier formation, which compromises the barrier functionality. This could be induced by suboptimal cell culturing conditions, which amongst others is the diminished activation of the vitamin D receptor (VDR) signalling pathway. The active metabolite of this signalling pathway is 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D₃ (1,25(OH)₂D₃). An interacting role in the formation of the skin barrier has been ascribed to this pathway, although it remains unresolved to which extent this pathway contributes to the (mal-)formation of the epidermal barrier in HSEs. Our aim is to study whether cell culture medium enriched with 1,25(OH)₂D₃ affects epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Addition of 20 nM 1,25(OH)₂D₃ resulted in activation of the VDR signalling pathway by inducing transcription of VDR target genes (CYP24A and LL37) in keratinocyte monocultures and in HSEs. Characterization of HSEs supplemented with 1,25(OH)₂D₃ using immunohistochemical analyses revealed a high similarity in epidermal morphogenesis and in expression of lipid processing enzymes. The barrier formation was assessed using state-of-the art techniques analysing lipid composition and organization. Addition of 1,25(OH)₂D₃ did not alter the composition of ceramides. Additionally, the lateral and lamellar organization of the lipids was similar, irrespective of supplementation. In conclusion, epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs generated in presence or absence of 1,25(OH)₂D₃ leads to a similar morphogenesis and comparable barrier formation in vitro.

Determination of fatty acid and sphingoid base composition of eleven ceramide subclasses in stratum corneum by UHPLC/scheduled-MRM

INTRODUCTION

Ceramides play a key role in skin barrier function in homeostatic and pathological conditions and can be sampled non-invasively through stratum corneum collection.

OBJECTIVES

To develop a novel UHPLC/Scheduled MRM method for the identification and relative distribution of eleven classes of ceramides, which are separated by UHPLC and determined by their specific retention times. The precise composition of the fatty acid and sphingoid base parts of each individual ceramide is determined via mass fragmentation.

METHODS

More than 1000 human and pig ceramides were identified. Three human and minipig ceramide classes, CER[AS], CER[NS] and CER[EOS] have been investigated in depth.

RESULTS

Sphingoid bases were characterized by a prevalence of chain lengths with sizes from C16 to C22, whereas fatty acids were mainly observed in the range of C22-C26. Overall, the ceramide profiles between human and minipig stratum corneum were similar. Differences in the CER[AS] and CER[NS] classes included a more homogeneous distribution of fatty acids (16-30 carbon atoms) in minipig, whereas in human longer fatty acid chains (> 24 carbon atoms) predominated.

CONCLUSION

The method will be useful for the analysis of healthy and pathological skin in various specie, and the measurement of the relative distribution of ceramides as biomarkers for pharmacodynamic studies.

Recapitulation of Native Dermal Tissue in a Full-Thickness Human Skin Model Using Human Collagens

OBJECTIVE

Full-thickness skin models comprise a three-dimensional dermal equivalent based on an animal-derived collagen matrix that harbors fibroblasts and an epidermal equivalent formed by keratinocytes. The functionality of both equivalents is influenced by many factors, including extracellular matrix composition and resident cell type. Animal-derived collagens differ in amino acid composition and physicochemical properties from human collagens. This composition could alter the functionality of the dermal equivalent and epidermal morphogenesis with the barrier formation in full-thickness models (FTMs). By replacement of animal-derived collagen for human collagen, we generated and characterized the animal material-free human collagen full-thickness models (hC-FTMs) that better mimic native dermal tissue.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

An isolation procedure to obtain soluble collagen from human abdominal dermis was developed. Both FTMs and hC-FTMs were generated with primary human fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Immunohistochemical analyses with biomarkers for the dermal matrix composition, basement membrane (BM) formation, epidermal proliferation, differentiation, and activation were performed. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition was studied with liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. Lipid lamellar organization was determined by small-angle X-ray diffraction.

RESULTS

The FTMs and hC-FTMs exhibit many similarities, including the dermal matrix structure, BM formation, epidermal basal layer proliferation, and execution of differentiation programs. The SC contains a similar number of corneocyte layers and the same level of lipids. The ceramide chain length distribution and ceramide subclass profile showed only minor differences. Subsequently, this led to an unaltered lamellar organization.

CONCLUSION

The animal material-free hC-FTM is generated successfully using collagens isolated from human abdominal dermis. Utilization of human collagens revealed that (epi-)dermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation resembled that of original FTMs. The hC-FTMs contain a dermal equivalent that mimics the native stromal tissue to a higher extent. Therefore these in vitro skin models can be used as promising tool for research purposes that contribute to animal-free experimentation.

Psoriasis-Associated Late Cornified Envelope (LCE) Proteins Have Antibacterial Activity

Terminally differentiating epidermal keratinocytes express a large number of structural and antimicrobial proteins that are involved in the physical barrier function of the stratum corneum and provide innate cutaneous host defense. Late cornified envelope (LCE) genes, located in the epidermal differentiation complex on chromosome 1, encode a family of 18 proteins of unknown function, whose expression is largely restricted to epidermis. Deletion of two members, LCE3B and LCE3C (LCE3B/C-del), is a widely-replicated psoriasis risk factor that interacts with the major psoriasis-psoriasis risk gene HLA-C*06. Here we performed quantitative trait locus analysis, utilizing RNA-seq data from human skin and found that LCE3B/C-del was associated with a markedly increased expression of LCE3A, a gene directly adjacent to LCE3B/C-del. We confirmed these findings in a 3-dimensional skin model using primary keratinocytes from LCE3B/C-del genotyped donors. Functional analysis revealed that LCE3 proteins, and LCE3A in particular, have defensin-like antimicrobial activity against a variety of bacterial taxa at low micromolar concentrations. No genotype-dependent effect was observed for the inside-out or outside-in physical skin barrier function. Our findings identify an unknown biological function for LCE3 proteins and suggest a role in epidermal host defense and LCE3B/C-del-mediated psoriasis risk.

Improved epidermal barrier formation in human skin models by chitosan modulated dermal matrices

Full thickness human skin models (FTMs) contain an epidermal and a dermal equivalent. The latter is composed of a collagen dermal matrix which harbours fibroblasts. Current epidermal barrier properties of FTMs do not fully resemble that of native human skin (NHS), which makes these human skin models less suitable for barrier related studies. To further enhance the resemblance of NHS for epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation, we modulated the collagen dermal matrix with the biocompatible polymer chitosan. Herein, we report that these collagen-chitosan FTMs (CC-FTMs) possess a well-organized epidermis and maintain both the early and late differentiation programs as in FTMs. Distinctively, the epidermal cell activation is reduced in CC-FTMs to levels observed in NHS. Dermal-epidermal interactions are functional in both FTM types, based on the formation of the basement membrane. Evaluation of the barrier structure by the organization of the extracellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum revealed an elongated repeat distance of the long periodicity phase. The ceramide composition exhibited a higher resemblance of the NHS, based on the carbon chain-length distribution and subclass profile. The inside-out barrier functionality indicated by the transepidermal water loss is significantly improved in the CC-FTMs. The expression of epidermal barrier lipid processing enzymes is marginally affected, although more restricted to a single granular layer. The novel CC-FTM resembles the NHS more closely, which makes them a promising tool for epidermal barrier related studies.

Catch-up validation study of an in vitro skin irritation test method based on an open source reconstructed epidermis (phase II)

To replace the Draize skin irritation assay (OECD guideline 404) several test methods based on reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) have been developed and were adopted in the OECD test guideline 439. However, all validated test methods in the guideline are linked to RHE provided by only three companies. Thus, the availability of these test models is dependent on the commercial interest of the producer. To overcome this limitation and thus to increase the accessibility of in vitro skin irritation testing, an open source reconstructed epidermis (OS-REp) was introduced. To demonstrate the capacity of the OS-REp in regulatory risk assessment, a catch-up validation study was performed. The participating laboratories used in-house generated OS-REp to assess the set of 20 reference substances according to the performance standards amending the OECD test guideline 439. Testing was performed under blinded conditions. The within-laboratory reproducibility of 87% and the inter-laboratory reproducibility of 85% prove a high reliability of irritancy testing using the OS-REp protocol. In addition, the prediction capacity was with an accuracy of 80% comparable to previous published RHE based test protocols. Taken together the results indicate that the OS-REp test method can be used as a standalone alternative skin irritation test replacing the OECD test guideline 404.

Quantitative analysis of ceramides using a novel lipidomics approach with three dimensional response modelling

In the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), ceramides form a diverse and essential pool of lipids. Due to their diversity and the limited availability of synthetic standards it is challenging to quantitatively analyse all SC ceramides independently. We aim to perform a detailed analysis of ceramides on SC harvested from in vivo and ex vivo skin, therefore, a LC/MS method was developed in which all steps from sample acquisition until data analysis were examined and optimized. Improving extraction efficiency of ceramides resulted in an increase in efficiency from 71.5% to 99.3%. It was shown that sample harvesting by tape-stripping in vivo was accurate and precise. A full scan MS method was developed, compatible with all sample types, enabling simultaneously qualitative and quantitative data analysis. A novel three dimensional response model was constructed to quantify all detected ceramides from full scan data using a limited amount of synthetic ceramides. The application is demonstrated on various SC sample types. When ex vivo SC was regenerated during human skin culture, increases are observed in the amount of the ceramide sphingosine subclasses, in mono unsaturated ceramides (which have an cis-double bond in the acyl chain), and ceramides with a short C34 carbon chain (ceramides with a total carbon chain of 34 carbon atoms), compared with native human skin. These changes in ceramide levels are also often encountered in diseased skin.

Lipidomic platform for structural identification of skin ceramides with α-hydroxyacyl chains

Skin ceramides are sphingolipids consisting of sphingoid bases, which are linked to fatty acids via an amide bond. Typical fatty acid acyl chains are composed of α-hydroxy fatty acid (A), esterified ω-hydroxy fatty acid (EO), non-hydroxy fatty acid (N), and ω-hydroxy fatty acid (O). We recently established a lipidomic platform to identify skin ceramides with non-hydroxyacyl chains using tandem mass spectrometry. We expanded our study to establish a lipidomic platform to identify skin ceramides with α-hydroxyacyl chains. Tandem mass spectrometry analysis of A-type ceramides using chip-based direct infusion nanoelectrospray-mass spectrometry showed the characteristic fragmentation pattern of both acyl and sphingoid units, which can be applied for structural identification of ceramides. Based on the tandem mass spectrometry fragmentation patterns of A-type ceramides, comprehensive fragmentation schemes were proposed. Our results may be useful for identifying A-type ceramides in the stratum corneum of human skin.

Nrf2 deficiency causes lipid oxidation, inflammation, and matrix-protease expression in DHA-supplemented and UVA-irradiated skin fibroblasts

Fish oil rich in docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) has beneficial effects on human health. Omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids are precursors of eicosanoids and docosanoids, signaling molecules that control inflammation and immunity, and their dietary uptake improves a range of disorders including cardiovascular diseases, ulcerative colitis, rheumatoid arthritis, and psoriasis. The unsaturated nature of these fatty acids, however, makes them prone to oxidation, especially when they are incorporated into (membrane) phospholipids. The skin is an organ strongly exposed to oxidative stress, mainly due to solar ultraviolet radiation. Thus, increased levels of PUFA in combination with oxidative stress could cause increased local generation of oxidized lipids, whose action spectrum reaches from signaling molecules to reactive carbonyl compounds that can crosslink biomolecules. Here, we investigated whether PUFA supplements to fibroblasts are incorporated into membrane phospholipids and whether an increase of PUFA within phospholipids affects the responses of the cells to UV exposure. The redox-sensitive transcription factor Nrf2 is the major regulator of the fibroblast stress response to ultraviolet radiation or exposure to oxidized lipids. Here we addressed how Nrf2 signaling would be affected in PUFA-supplemented human dermal fibroblasts and mouse dermal fibroblasts from Nrf2-deficient and wild type mice. We found, using HPLC-tandem MS, that DHA supplements to culture media of human and murine fibroblasts were readily incorporated into phospholipids and that subsequent irradiation of the supplemented cells with UVA resulted in an increase in 1-palmitoyl-2-(epoxyisoprostane-E2)-sn-glycero-3-phosphorylcholine and Oxo-DHA esterified to phospholipid, both of which are Nrf2 agonists. Also, induction of Nrf2 target genes was enhanced in the DHA-supplemented fibroblasts after UVA irradiation. In Nrf2-deficient murine fibroblasts, the expression of the target genes was, as expected, decreased, but surprisingly, expression of TNFα and MMP13 was strongly induced in DHA-supplemented, UVA-irradiated cells. Also, Nrf2-deficient cells had increased levels of oxidized phospholipids relative to the unoxidized precursors after UVA irradiation. Our data suggest that under ultraviolet stress a functioning Nrf2 system is required to prevent DHA-induced inflammation and matrix degradation in dermal fibroblasts.

Fibroblast heterogeneity and its implications for engineering organotypic skin models in vitro

Advances in cell culture methods, multidisciplinary research, clinical need to replace lost skin tissues and regulatory need to replace animal models with alternative test methods has led to development of three dimensional models of human skin. In general, these in vitro models of skin consist of keratinocytes cultured over fibroblast-populated dermal matrices. Accumulating evidences indicate that mesenchyme-derived signals are essential for epidermal morphogenesis, homeostasis and differentiation. Various studies show that fibroblasts isolated from different tissues in the body are dynamic in nature and are morphologically and functionally heterogeneous subpopulations. Further, these differences seem to be dictated by the local biological and physical microenvironment the fibroblasts reside resulting in "positional identity or memory". Furthermore, the heterogeneity among the fibroblasts play a critical role in scarless wound healing and complete restoration of native tissue architecture in fetus and oral mucosa; and excessive scar formation in diseased states like keloids and hypertrophic scars. In this review, we summarize current concepts about the heterogeneity among fibroblasts and their role in various wound healing environments. Further, we contemplate how the insights on fibroblast heterogeneity could be applied for the development of next generation organotypic skin models.

Lipid changes within the epidermis of living skin equivalents observed across a time-course by MALDI-MS imaging and profiling

Background

Mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) is a powerful tool for the study of intact tissue sections. Here, its application to the study of the distribution of lipids in sections of reconstructed living skin equivalents during their development and maturation is described.

Methods

Living skin equivalent (LSE) samples were obtained at 14 days development, re-suspended in maintenance medium and incubated for 24 h after delivery. The medium was then changed, the LSE re-incubated and samples taken at 4, 6 and 24 h time points. Mass spectra and mass spectral images were recorded from 12 μm sections of the LSE taken at each time point for comparison using matrix assisted laser desorption ionisation mass spectrometry.

Results

A large number of lipid species were identified in the LSE via accurate mass-measurement MS and MSMS experiments carried out directly on the tissue sections. MS images acquired at a spatial resolution of 50 μm × 50 μm showed the distribution of identified lipids within the developing LSE and changes in their distribution with time. In particular development of an epidermal layer was observable as a compaction of the distribution of phosphatidylcholine species.

Conclusions

MSI can be used to study changes in lipid composition in LSE. Determination of the changes in lipid distribution during the maturation of the LSE will assist in the identification of treatment responses in future investigations.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (doi:10.1186/s12944-015-0089-z) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Modulation of stratum corneum lipid composition and organization of human skin equivalents by specific medium supplements

Our in-house human skin equivalents contain all stratum corneum (SC) barrier lipid classes, but have a reduced level of free fatty acids (FAs), of which a part is mono-unsaturated. These differences lead to an altered SC lipid organization and thereby a reduced barrier function compared to human skin. In this study, we aimed to improve the SC FA composition and, consequently, the SC lipid organization of the Leiden epidermal model (LEM) by specific medium supplements. The standard FA mixture (consisting of palmitic, linoleic and arachidonic acids) supplemented to the medium was modified, by replacing protonated palmitic acid with deuterated palmitic acid or by the addition of deuterated arachidic acid to the mixture, to determine whether FAs are taken up from the medium and are incorporated into SC of LEM. Furthermore, supplementation of the total FA mixture or that of palmitic acid alone was increased four times to examine whether this improves the SC FA composition and lipid organization of LEM. The results demonstrate that the deuterated FAs are taken up into LEMs and are subsequently elongated and incorporated in their SC. However, a fourfold increase in palmitic acid supplementation does not change the SC FA composition or lipid organization of LEM. Increasing the concentration of the total FA mixture in the medium resulted in a decreased level of very long chain FAs and an increased level of mono-unsaturated FAs, which lead to deteriorated SC lipid properties. These results indicate that SC lipid properties can be modulated by specific medium supplements.

Impedance spectroscopy for the non-destructive evaluation of in vitro epidermal models

Purpose

Reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) is standardly used for the risk assessment of chemical compounds. However, analysis is dependent on invasive methods such as histological processing or 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) staining.

Methods

As an alternative, we have developed a non-destructive technology to analyze the integrity of epidermal equivalents based on impedance spectroscopy. RHEs were generated and impedance spectra were recorded. from these spectra, we extrapolated electrical characteristics such as the capacitance and the ohmic resistance. Furthermore, the measurable electrical parameters were used to quantify the effects of mechanical and chemical disruption of the epidermal integrity.

Results

A fully matured RHE exhibits typical impedance spectra in a frequency ranging between 1 Hz and 100 kHz, which is comparable to the spectra of freshly isolated human epidermal biopsies. We could show that, during RHE maturation, these characteristics change significantly. Thus, capacitance and ohmic resistance can be employed as a criterion for the quality control of skin equivalents. Additionally, our application of impedance spectroscopy reveals sufficient sensitivity to detect a transient decreased ohmic resistance caused by 2-propanol, which is classified as a non-irritant by MTT assays.

Conclusion

These results indicate that impedance spectroscopy can be employed as a non-destructive complementary method to assess mild irritative effects, which is currently not possible.

Barrier properties of an N/TERT-based human skin equivalent

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) can be considered a valuable tool to study aspects of human skin, including the skin barrier, or to perform chemical or toxicological screenings. HSEs are three-dimensional skin models that are usually established using primary keratinocytes and closely mimic human skin. The use of primary keratinocytes has several drawbacks, including a limited in vitro life span and large donor-donor variation. This makes them less favorable for in vitro toxicity screenings. Usage of an established keratinocyte cell line circumvents these drawbacks and enables the generation of easy-to-generate and reproducible HSEs, which can be used for pharmacological and/or toxicological screenings. For such screenings, a proper barrier function is required. In this study, we investigated the barrier properties of HSEs established with the keratinocyte cell line N/TERT (N-HSEs). N-HSEs showed comparable tissue morphology and expression of several epidermal proteins compared with HSEs established with primary keratinocytes. Our results clearly demonstrate that N-HSEs not only contain several stratum corneum (SC) barrier properties similar to HSEs, including the presence of the long periodicity phase and a comparable SC permeability, but also show some differences in lipid composition. Nonetheless, the similarities in barrier properties makes N/TERT cells a promising alternative for primary keratinocytes to generate HSEs.

Knock-down of filaggrin does not affect lipid organization and composition in stratum corneum of reconstructed human skin equivalents

Human skin mainly functions as an effective barrier against unwanted environmental influences. The barrier function strongly relies on the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), which is composed of corneocytes embedded in an extracellular lipid matrix. The importance of a proper barrier function is shown in various skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis (AD), a complex human skin disorder strongly associated with filaggrin (FLG) null mutations, but their role in barrier function is yet unclear. To study the role of FLG in SC barrier properties in terms of SC lipid organization and lipid composition, we generated an N/TERT-based 3D-skin equivalent (NSE) after knock-down of FLG with shRNA. In these NSEs, we examined epidermal morphogenesis by evaluating the expression of differentiation markers keratin 10, FLG, loricrin and the proliferation marker ki67. Furthermore, the SC was extensively analysed for lipid organization, lipid composition and SC permeability. Our results demonstrate that FLG knock-down (FLG-KD) did not affect epidermal morphogenesis, SC lipid organization, lipid composition and SC permeability for a lipophilic compound in NSEs. Therefore, our findings indicate that FLG-KD alone does not necessarily affect the functionality of a proper barrier function.

The use of skin models in drug development

Three dimensional (3D) tissue models of the human skin are probably the most developed and understood in vitro engineered constructs. The motivation to accomplish organotypic structures was driven by the clinics to enable transplantation of in vitro grown tissue substitutes and by the cosmetics industry as alternative test substrates in order to replace animal models. Today a huge variety of 3D human skin models exist, covering a multitude of scientific and/or technical demands. This review summarizes and discusses different approaches of skin model development and sets them into the context of drug development. Although human skin models have become indispensable for the cosmetics industry, they have not yet started their triumphal procession in pharmaceutical research and development. For drug development these tissue models may be of particular interest for a) systemically acting drugs applied on the skin, and b) drugs acting at the site of application in the case of skin diseases or disorders. Although quite a broad spectrum of models covering different aspects of the skin as a biologically acting surface exists, these are most often single stand-alone approaches. In order to enable the comprehensive application into drug development processes, the approaches have to be synchronized to allow a cross-over comparison. Besides the development of biological relevant models, other issues are not less important in the context of drug development: standardized production procedures, process automation, establishment of significant analytical methods, and data correlation. For the successful routine use of engineered human skin models in drug development, major requirements were defined. If these requirements can be accomplished in the next few years, human organotypic skin models will become indispensable for drug development, too.

Intercellular skin barrier lipid composition and organization in Netherton syndrome patients

Netherton syndrome (NTS) is a rare genetic skin disease caused by mutations in the serine protease inhibitor Kazal-type 5 gene, which encodes the lympho-epithelial Kazal-type-related inhibitor. NTS patients have profoundly impaired skin barrier function. As stratum corneum (SC) lipids have a crucial role in the skin barrier function, we investigated the SC lipid composition and organization in NTS patients. We studied the SC lipid composition by means of mass spectrometry, and the lipid organization was examined by infrared spectroscopy and X-ray diffraction. Decreased free fatty acid (FFA) chain length and increased levels of monounsaturated FFAs were observed in the SC of NTS patients compared with controls. Furthermore, the level of short-chain ceramides (CERs) was enhanced in NTS patients and a strong reduction in long-chain CER levels was seen in several patients. The changes in lipid composition modified the lipid organization leading to an increased disordering of the lipids compared with the controls. In addition, in a subgroup of patients the organization of the lipid layers changed dramatically. The altered FFA and CER profiles in NTS patients corresponded to changes in the expression of enzymes involved in SC lipid processing. The observed changes in lipid composition, lipid organization, and enzyme expression are likely to contribute to the barrier dysfunction in NTS.

The important role of stratum corneum lipids for the cutaneous barrier function

The skin protects the body from unwanted influences from the environment as well as excessive water loss. The barrier function of the skin is located in the stratum corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. This lipid matrix is crucial for the lipid skin barrier function. This paper provides an overview of the reported SC lipid composition and organization mainly focusing on healthy and diseased human skin. In addition, an overview is provided on the data describing the relation between lipid modulations and the impaired skin barrier function. Finally, the use of in vitro lipid models for a better understanding of the relation between the lipid composition, lipid organization and skin lipid barrier is discussed. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.

Combined LC/MS-platform for analysis of all major stratum corneum lipids, and the profiling of skin substitutes

Ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs) are the main lipid classes in human stratum corneum (SC, outermost skin layer), but no studies report on the detailed analysis of these classes in a single platform. The primary aims of this study were to 1) develop an LC/MS method for (semi-)quantitative analysis of all main lipid classes present in human SC; and 2) use this method to study in detail the lipid profiles of human skin substitutes and compare them to human SC lipids. By applying two injections of 10μl, the developed method detects all major SC lipids using RPLC and negative ion mode APCI-MS for detection of FFAs, and NPLC using positive ion mode APCI-MS to analyze CERs and cholesterol. Validation showed this lipid platform to be robust, reproducible, sensitive, and fast. The method was successfully applied on ex vivo human SC, human SC obtained from tape strips and human skin substitutes (porcine SC and human skin equivalents). In conjunction with FFA profiles, clear differences in CER profiles were observed between these different SC sources. Human skin equivalents more closely mimic the lipid composition of human stratum corneum than porcine skin does, although noticeable differences are still present. These differences gave biologically relevant information on some of the enzymes that are probably involved in SC lipid processing. For future research, this provides an excellent method for (semi-)quantitative, 'high-throughput' profiling of SC lipids and can be used to advance the understanding of skin lipids and the biological processes involved.

Altered sphingoid base profiles predict compromised membrane structure and permeability in atopic dermatitis

BACKGROUND

Ceramide hydrolysis by ceramidase in the stratum corneum (SC) yields both sphingoid bases and free fatty acids (FFA). While FFA are key constituents of the lamellar bilayers that mediate the epidermal permeability barrier, whether sphingoid bases influence permeability barrier homeostasis remains unknown. Pertinently, alterations of lipid profile, including ceramide and ceramidase activities occur in atopic dermatitis (AD).

OBJECT

We investigated alterations in sphingoid base levels and/or profiles (sphingosine to sphinganine ratio) in the SC of normal vs. AD mice, a model that faithfully replicates human AD, and then whether altered sphingoid base levels and/or profiles influence(s) membrane stability and/or structures.

METHODS

Unilamellar vesicles (LV), incorporating the three major SC lipids (ceramides/FFA/cholesterol) and different ratios of sphingosine/sphinganine, encapsulating carboxyfluorescein, were used as the model of SC lipids. Membrane stability was measured as release of carboxyfluorescein. Thermal analysis of LV was conducted by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

RESULTS

LV containing AD levels of sphingosine/sphinganine (AD-LV) displayed altered membrane permeability vs. normal-LV. DSC analyses revealed decreases in orthorhombic structures that form tightly packed lamellar structures in AD-LV.

CONCLUSION

Sphingoid base composition influences lamellar membrane architecture in SC, suggesting that altered sphingoid base profiles could contribute to the barrier abnormality in AD.

Reconstructed skin models as emerging tools for drug absorption studies

INTRODUCTION

As humans can come into contact with xenobiotics intentionally or accidentally, knowledge about the skin absorption of these substances is crucial and requires reliable models and test procedures. Animal experiments should be avoided whenever possible, instead of making the use of in vitro systems. Furthermore, due to limited availability of normal and especially diseased human skin, alternative test systems such as reconstructed skin models are urgently required.

AREAS COVERED

This article discusses the advantages and limitations of excised human skin, animal skin and reconstructed skin models for absorption testing in vitro. Furthermore, the authors also describe the standard procedure for skin absorption testing and give an excursion to the applicability of artificial membranes. Finally, the article highlights the progress in the development of reconstructed disease models and provides an extensive overview about past and ongoing research in this field.

EXPERT OPINION

The development and validation of in vitro systems for skin absorption testing is inevitable. More research efforts are required for the development of reconstructed disease models. Reconstructed skin models need to be improved, especially in terms of complexity to mimic the in vivo situation better. It should not, however, be the main goal to imitate the in vivo situation exactly, but to establish reliable systems that ensure predictive and reliable data.