Photolysis and cellular toxicities of the organic ultraviolet filter chemical octyl methoxycinnamate and its photoproducts

Exposure to UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate and human health effects: Focus on endocrine disruptor actions

Human skin is the first line of photoprotection against UV radiation. However, despite having its defence mechanisms, the photoprotection that the skin exerts is not enough. To protect human skin, the inclusion of UV filters in the cosmetic industry has grown significantly as a photoprotection strategy. Octylmethoxycinnamate, also designated by octinoxate, or 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (CAS number: 5466-77-3) is one of the most widely used UV-B filter in the cosmetic industry. The toxic effects of OMC have alarmed the public, but there is still no consensus in the scientific community about its use. This article aims to provide an overview of the UV filters' photoprotection, emphasizing the OMC and the possible negative effects it may have on the public health. Moreover, the current legislation will be addressed. In summary, the recommendations should be rethought to assess their risk-benefit, since the existing literature warns us to endocrine-disrupting effects of OMC. Further studies should be focus on the toxicity of OMC alone, in mixture and should consider its degradation products, to improve the knowledge of its risk assessment as EDC.

Effects associated with exposure to the emerging contaminant octyl-methoxycinnamate (a UV-B filter) in the aquatic environment: a review

Given the increasing concern surrounding ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced skin damage, there has been a rise in demand for UV filters. Currently, UV-filters are considered emerging contaminants. The extensive production and use of UV filters have led to their widespread release into the aquatic environment. Thus, there is growing concern that UV filters may bioaccumulate and exhibit persistent properties within the environment, raising several safety health concerns. Octyl-methoxycinnamate (OMC) is extensively employed as a UV-B filter in the cosmetic industry. While initially designed to mitigate the adverse photobiological effects attributed to UV radiation, the safety of OMC has been questioned with some studies reporting toxic effects on environment. The aim of this review to provide an overview of the scientific information regarding the most widely used organic UV-filter (OMC), and its effects on biodiversity and aquatic environment.

Bioconjugation of Vegetable Oils with UV Absorbers: New Approach in Skin Photoprotection

We reported the tunable synthesis of new vegetable oil-UV filter bioconjugates using sea buckthorn oil (SBO) and p-methoxycinnamic acid (p-MCA) as an alternative to the common UV filter, ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (octinoxate). The synthetic strategy is based on the sustainable ring-opening reaction of epoxidized SBO with p-MCA in heterogenous catalysis in eco-friendly solvents. The amount of UV-absorptive moieties grafted on the triglyceride backbone is controlled by different epoxidation degrees as determined by NMR spectroscopy. The performance of the new UV-absorber bioconjugates was assessed by in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) measurements after inclusion in SBO-ethylcellulose (EC) oleogels and comparison with the SPF value of the SBO-EC-octinoxate oleogel with equivalent p-MCA acid moieties (10% wt/wt). The concentration obtained for the SBO-EC oleogel formulated with the bioconjugate with the lowest degree of functionalization, namely 55%, represents 45% of the SPF determined for the SBO-EC-octinoxate oleogel, regardless of the concentration of measured solutions. The new concept of vegetable oil-UV-absorber bioconjugates has potential UV-B photoprotective properties when included in oleogel formulations and deserves further investigation of their properties and stability including association with UV-A absorbers, respectively.

Identification of Transformation Products of Organic UV Filters by Photooxidation and Their Differential Estrogenicity Assessment

Organic ultraviolet filters (OUVFs) are extensively released into aquatic environments, where they undergo complex phototransformation. However, there is little knowledge regarding their transformation products (TPs) and associated endocrine disruption potentials. In the present study, we characterized the chemical and toxicological profiles of TPs for two common OUVFs, oxybenzone (BP3) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), by photooxidation under environmentally relevant conditions. It is hypothesized that TPs of the tested OUVFs will show varied estrogenicity at different reaction times. High-resolution liquid chromatography quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (LC-QTOF-MS) identified 17 TPs of 7 m/z for BP-3 and 13 TPs of 8 m/z for EHMC at confidence levels ≤2. Five novel TPs of 2 m/z were reported for the first time with structure-diagnostic MS/MS spectra. Estrogenicity assessment using the MCF-7-luc cell line showed discrepant estrogenic activities exhibited by OUVF-TPs over time. Specifically, BP3-TPs exhibited significantly greater estrogenicity than the parent at several reaction times, whereas EHMC-TPs displayed fluctuating estrogenicity with a declining trend. Correlation analysis coupled with molecular docking simulations further suggested several TPs of BP3 as potential endocrine disruptive compounds. These findings underscore the necessity of considering mixtures during chemical testing and risk assessment and highlight the potentially greater risks associated with post-transformation cocktails.

In silico design, synthesis and evaluation of a less toxic octinoxate alternative with suitable photoprotection properties

Excessive UV exposure leads to several skin pathologies such as sunburns, photoaging and carcinogenesis. Currently, sunscreen use is the most important factor in protecting skin from photoinduced damage. Octinoxate is a commonly used UV filter, but its use has become controversial because it acts as an endocrine disruptor in both humans, and marine animals. Research has relied on biotechnology, structure activity relationship (SAR) studies and combinatorial chemistry to find new and less toxic UV filters. However, there are no current examples that describe the possible applications of in silico techniques for obtaining these compounds. Thus, this project sought to design an octinoxate analog that could be used as a less toxic, but equally effective, photoprotective alternative through ligand based virtual screening (LBVS). We designed 213 novel molecules based on the (E)-cinnamoyl moiety of octinoxate, but only 23 were found to be less toxic than the parent compound. Then, an artificial neural network (ANN) based model was built to predict the molar absorptivity of those 23 molecules, and the molecule that presented a similar molar absorptivity to that of octinoxate was chosen for synthesis (analog 4, 3-phenylpropyl (E)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)acrylate). Synthesis for analog 4 resulted in a 90% yield, and its photoprotective properties, lipophilicity and cytotoxicity were then evaluated. Analog 4 absorbed UV radiation in the range of 250-340 nm, and it presented a molar absorptivity of 36,155 M ^- 1cm^-1. Its lipophilicity was evaluated with RP-HPLC resulting in a log_kw of 2.49 and its LC₅₀ was greater than octinoxate's (67.41 nM vs. 45.67 nM). Therefore, results showed that ligand based virtual screening is an effective strategy for the development of new organic UV filters, because it guided the design of less toxic analogs and pinpointed the most likely analog to exhibit UV properties similar to those of octinoxate. In this case, analog 4 is a promising alternative to its parent compound since it proved to be more effective and less toxic.

Photochemical Degradation of the UV Filter Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate Probed via Laser-Interfaced Mass Spectrometry

Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is a common UVA and UVB filter molecule that is widely used in commercial sunscreens. Here, we used gas-phase laser photodissociation spectroscopy to characterise the intrinsic photostability and photodegradation products of OMC by studying the system in its protonated form, i.e., [OMC·H]⁺. The major photofragments observed were m/z 179, 161, and 133, corresponding to fragmentation on either side of the ether oxygen of the ester group (m/z 179 and 161) or the C-C bond adjacent to the ester carbonyl group. Additional measurements were obtained using higher-energy collisional dissociation mass spectrometry (HCD-MS) to identify fragments that resulted from the breakdown of the vibrationally hot electronic ground state. We found that the m/z 179 and 161 ions were the main fragments produced by this route. Notably, the m/z 133 ion was not observed through HCD-MS, revealing that this product ion is only produced through a photochemical route. Our results demonstrate that UV photoexcitation of OMC is able to access a dissociative excited-state surface that uniquely leads to the rupture of the C-C bond adjacent to the key ester carbonyl group.

Lignin Nanoparticles as Sustainable Photoprotective Carriers for Sunscreen Filters

Sunscreen filters may be degraded after prolonged UV exposure with loss of their shielding property and generation of harmful radical species. They are contained in cosmetic formulations in high concentrations, so the improvement of photostability is of relevance for safety concerns. We report here that lignin nanoparticles are sustainable carriers and photostabilizers of two common UV chemical filters, namely, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate. These compounds have been encapsulated by nanoprecipitation into kraft lignin nanoparticles using eco-certified dimethyl isosorbide as a primary solvent and deionized water as an antisolvent. After the encapsulation, both compounds significantly prolonged the half-life stability against UV irradiation. The stabilizing properties of lignin nanoparticles were further improved by coencapsulation of avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate with hydroxytyrosol, a natural phenol with antioxidant activity recovered from olive oil wastes and characterized by skin regenerative properties.

Chitosan-coated mesoporous silica particles as a plastic-free platform for photochemical suppression and stabilization of organic ultraviolet filters

Photochemical instability and reactivity of organic ultraviolet (UV) filters not only degrade the performance of sunscreen formulations but also generate toxic photodegradation products and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Although the encapsulation of organic UV filters into synthetic polymer particles has been widely investigated, synthetic plastics were recently banned for personal care and cosmetic products due to marine and coastal pollution issues. Here we present a plastic-free, photochemically stable and inactive UV filter platform based on chitosan-coated mesoporous silica microparticles, denoted 'mSOCPs', incorporating octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) as a sunscreen agent. Sunlight induced the degradation of ∼80% free OMC in artificial sweat in 1 h at room temperature, while only 20% of OMC degraded for 3 h when encapsulated within mSOCPs. Moreover, mSOCPs efficiently suppressed the photochemical generation of ROS by about 99% through the combined effects of the mesoporous silica structure and chitosan coating. Accordingly, mSOCPs substantially increased the cell viability of fibroblasts exposed to UV irradiation. This work demonstrates that the biopolymer coatings of mesoporous inorganic particles can be a promising approach to the plastic-free encapsulation of organic UV filters for suppressing their photochemical reactivity and degradation.

Gene expression profiling in liver of zebrafish exposed to ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and its photoproducts

In recent decades, the ecotoxicological potential of organic ultraviolet filters (OU-VFs) has received growing attention. However, the toxicity of its photoproducts or transformation products on freshwater vertebrates has been little explored. Therefore, the aim of the present study is to evaluate the possible adverse effects of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) and its photoproducts [2-ethylhexanol (2-EH) and 4-methoxybenzaldehyde (4-MBA)] on the expression of stress-responsive and antioxidant genes. For this, zebrafish (Danio rerio) adults were exposed to pollutants at an environmentally relevant concentration (3 μg/L) and evaluated after 7, 14, and 21 days of exposure. The results of the principal component analysis (PCA) and two-way repeated measures (RM) ANOVA revealed that EHMC, 2-EH, and 4-MBA exposure caused significant downregulation of the genes hsp70, nrf2, cyp1a, ahr, sod1, sod2, cat, gstp1, gpx1a, gss, and gsr (on all trial days) in the liver of the animals. On the other hand, taken together, our data did not show significant differences between the effects induced by EHMC and its photoproducts. The genes evaluated in the present study play a major role in regulating the defensive antioxidant response against EHMC and its photoproducts. Additionally, our study provides an insight into the mechanisms of those OU-VFs in freshwater fish.

Effect of benzophenone-3 on the blood cells of zebrafish (Danio rerio)

Benzophenone-3 (BP-3) is a common component of organic sunscreen widely used that can affect especially aquatic ecosystems health, including fish. To verify the biological effects of low concentrations of BP-3 on blood cells, one hundred and forty zebrafish (D. rerio) were used and then randomly divided into five groups: control group (water), solvent group (alcoholic water), and BP-3 group (BP-3 at 7 µg L^-1, BP-3 at 70 µg L^-1, and BP-3 at 700 µg L^-1). The blood slices were stained with Panoptic stain and with Giemsa solution for the hematological analysis. During the exposure to BP-3, no behavioral changes were observed. Although no significant difference in total leukocytes occurred, an increase in neutrophils and a reduction of lymphocytes at the highest concentration on both 7th and 14th days were detected. The total and cytoplasmic area of erythrocytes on the 7th day at the highest concentration were reduced. In addition, alterations on the erythrocyte nuclear morphology in fish exposed to BP-3 were usually visualized, mainly when considered the occurrence of blebbed nucleus and micronucleus, indicating that BP-3 exhibits cytotoxic and mutagenic effects. The results indicate that BP-3 can interfere with the morphophysiology of aquatic organisms.

The toxicological impact of the sunscreen active ingredient octinoxate on the photosynthesis activity of Chlorella sp

Products designed to filter ultraviolet (UV) light are responsible for growing levels of anthropogenic environmental contamination. Octinoxate (ONT) is among the most common UV filtering active ingredients in cosmetics and sunscreens. The present study was designed to evaluate the toxicological effects of ONT on the photosynthetic activity of the Chlorella species of marine microalgae. These analyses identified ONT as a potent photo-toxicant, the effects of which were more pronounced upon light exposure relative to in the dark. Short-term ONT exposure had no effect on photosynthetic electron transport capacity in the dark but did significantly reduce the ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase activity in Chlorella cells, suggesting that this compound can directly suppress the photosynthetic Calvin cycle. When cells were subsequently exposed to light, the disruption of this cycle resulted in an excess of excitation energy, in turn driving the excessive generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). ROS-mediated disruption of cellular metabolism further aggravated this ONT-induced microalgal damage. As such, under natural light conditions, these microalgae cells are exposed to increased oxidative stress that impairs their growth and causes pigment bleaching. Restricting the utilization of ONT-containing sunscreens thus has the potential to better preserve the integrity of aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems.

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane: Toxicological effects on marine biota and human concerns

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) (CAS number: 5466-77-3) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM) (CAS number: 70356-09-1) are important sunscreens. However, frequent application of large amounts of these compounds may reflect serious environmental impact, once it enters the environment through indirect release via wastewater treatment or immediate release during water activities. In this article, we reviewed the toxicological effects of EHMC and BMDM on aquatic ecosystems and the human consequences. According to the literature, EHMC and BMDM have been detected in water samples and sediments worldwide. Consequently, these compounds are also present in several marine organisms like fish, invertebrates, coral reefs, marine mammals, and other species, due to its bioaccumulation potential. Studies show that these chemicals are capable of damaging the aquatic beings in different ways. Further, bioaccumulation studies have shown that EHMC biomagnifies through trophic levels, which makes human seafood consumption a concern because the higher position in the trophic chain, the more elevate levels of ultraviolet (UV) filters are detected, and it is established that EHMC present adverse effects on the human organism. In contrast, there are no studies on the BMDM bioaccumulation and biomagnification potential. Different strategies can be adopted to avoid the damage caused by sunscreens in the environment and human organism. Two of them include the use of natural photoprotectors, such as polyphenols, in association with UV filters in sunscreens and the development of new and safer UV filters. Overall, this review shows the importance of studying the impacts of sunscreens in nature and developing safer sunscreens and formulations to safeguard marine fauna, ecosystems, and humans.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320 nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400 nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.

Nano-Structured Lignin as Green Antioxidant and UV Shielding Ingredient for Sunscreen Applications

Green, biocompatible, and biodegradable antioxidants represent a milestone in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications. Lignin is the most abundant polyphenol in nature, recovered as a low-cost waste from the pulp and paper industry and biorefinery. This polymer is characterized by beneficial physical and chemical properties which are improved at the nanoscale level due to the emergence of antioxidant and UV shielding activities. Here we review the use of lignin nanoparticles in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications, focusing on sunscreen and antiaging formulations. Advances in the technology for the preparation of lignin nanoparticles are described highlighting structure activity relationships.

A systematic review and ecological risk assessment for organic ultraviolet filters in aquatic environments

Organic ultraviolet filters (OUVFs) are used in a wide range of manufactured products including personal care (e.g. sunscreens) and plastic items. This review summarizes the available data regarding the toxic effects of OUVFs on marine and freshwater organisms and generates the predicted no-effect concentration (PNEC) values necessary for assessing ecological risk. Through a systematic search of the literature, 89 studies were identified and ecotoxicological data extracted. Collectively, these studies described toxicity testing with 39 OUVF from 10 structural classes, with derivatives of benzophenones (49%) and camphors (16%) most studied. There was a bias towards selecting freshwater species (61%), and evaluating single OUVF effects (87%) rather than OUVF mixtures. Short-term (acute) experimentation (58%) was marginally more common than long-term (chronic) testing (42%). Reproductive, developmental, genetic, and neurological toxicity were the most commonly identified effects in aquatic organism, and were associated with molecular interactions with steroid receptors, DNA, or the production of reactive oxygen species. Species sensitivity distribution and/or assessment factors were used to calculate PNECs for 22 OUVFs and the risk quotients for 12 OUVFs. When using maximum concentrations, high risk was observed for six OUVFs in marine environments (4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, octocrylene, padimate-O, benzophenone-1, and oxybenzone, ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate), and for four OUVFs in freshwater environments (ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, avobenzone and oxybenzone). When using median concentrations, a risk to marine environments was observed for oxybenzone. The results of this review underline that there is limited knowledge of the pathological effects of OUVFs and their metabolites in aquatic environments, and this inhibits the development of informed water-quality guidelines.

Robust natural ultraviolet filters from marine ecosystems for the formulation of environmental friendlier bio-sunscreens

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) has detrimental effects on human health. It induces oxidative stress, deregulates signaling mechanisms, and produces DNA mutations, factors that ultimately can lead to the development of skin cancer. Therefore, reducing exposure to UVR is of major importance. Among available measures to diminish exposure is the use of sunscreens. However, recent studies indicate that several of the currently used filters have adverse effects on marine ecosystems and human health. This situation leads to the search for new photoprotective compounds that, apart from offering protection, are environmentally friendly. The answer may lie in the same marine ecosystems since molecules such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and scytonemin can serve as the defense system of some marine organisms against UVR. This review will discuss the harmful effects of UVR and the mechanisms that microalgae have developed to cope with it. Then it will focus on the biological distribution, characteristics, extraction, and purification methods of MAAs and scytonemin molecules to finally assess its potential as new filters for sunscreen formulation.

Occurrence and Gas-Particle Partitioning of Organic UV-Filters in Urban Air

A retrospective analysis of a comprehensive series of high-volume air samples (n = 70) collected during 2010-2011 in Toronto (Canada) was performed. Seven UV compounds were analyzed by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) with sum of concentrations (gas + particle phase) ranging from 80 to 2030 pg/m³. Homosalate (HMS) was the most prevalent organic UV-filter in air (47% of the total concentration), followed by 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS, ∼29%), E- and Z-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (EHMC, ∼17%). Ambient air (gas + particle phase) concentrations of organic UV-filters showed a strong seasonality, with peak levels during the summer. An analysis of Clausius-Clapeyron slopes indicated that much of the ambient burden of organic UV-filters are explained by volatilization from terrestrial and aquatic surfaces and supplemented with human activities and use of lotions and sunscreens, containing organic UV-filters, in addition to its use in plastics, textiles, paints, and pesticides. The results showed that organic UV-filters exist mainly in the gas phase with some exceptions, for instance, octocrylene (OCR), which was associated with both gas and particle phases, and avobenzone (AVB), which was predominantly in the particle phase. Lastly, this study revealed the need for basic physical chemical property data for organic UV-filters, including information on transformation rates and products, for better evaluating their environmental fate and effects.

Insights and controversies on sunscreen safety

Although sunlight provides several benefits, ultraviolet (UV) radiation plays an important role in the development of various skin damages such as erythema, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Despite cells having endogenous defense systems, damaged DNA may not be efficiently repaired at chronic exposure. In this sense, it is necessary to use artificial defense strategies such as sunscreen formulations. UV filters should scatter, reflect, or absorb solar UV radiation in order to prevent direct or indirect DNA lesions. However, the safety of UV filters is a matter of concern due to several controversies reported in literature, such as endocrine alterations, allergies, increased oxidative stress, phototoxic events, among others. Despite these controversies, the way in which sunscreens are tested is essential to ensure safety. Sunscreen regulation includes mandatory test for phototoxicity, but photogenotoxicity testing is not recommended as a part of the standard photosafety testing program. Although available photobiological tests are still the first approach to assess photosafety, they are limited. Some existing tests do not always provide reliable results, mainly due to limitations regarding the nature of the assessed phototoxic effect, cell UV sensitivity, and the irradiation protocols. These aspects bring queries regarding the safety of sunscreen wide use and suggest the demand for the development of robust and efficient in vitro screening tests to overcome the existing limitations. In this way, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has stood out as a promising model to fill the gaps in photobiology and to complete the mandatory tests enabling a more extensive and robust photosafety assessment.

Comparative toxicity of UV-filter Octyl methoxycinnamate and its photoproducts on zebrafish development

In the present study, we explored the adverse effects of Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), and its photoproducts, namely 2-ethylhexanol (2-EH) and 4-methoxybenzaldehyde (4-MBA) on the developmental stages of zebrafish using various biomarkers such as developmental toxicity, oxidative stress, antioxidant response, neurotoxicity and histopathological changes. The 96 h effective concentrations (EC₅₀) of OMC, 2-EH and 4-MBA were found to be 64.0, 34.0 and 3.5 µg/mL, respectively in the embryo toxicity test. Embryos exposed to the EC₅₀ of OMC, 2-EH and 4-MBA showed time-dependent increases in the malformation, heart rate and hatching delay. The lipid peroxidation (LPO) level was significantly (p < 0.05) increased and both induction and inhibition of SOD, CAT, GPx and GST activities were observed in the zebrafish embryos exposed to OMC, 2-EH and 4-MBA. GSH activity was significantly (p < 0.05) decreased in the highest exposure groups, when compared with the control. AChE activity was increased in lower concentrations of OMC, 2-EH and 4-MBA exposed embryos whereas, the activity was found to be decreased in highest concentration. Moreover, the histopathological studies showed severe damage to the muscle fibers and yolk sac regions of the larvae with 4-MBA treatment. The photoproduct 4-MBA has the highest toxic effect, followed by 2-EH and OMC. Our results provide useful insights into the impacts of OMC and its photoproducts on zebrafish development.

Materials Science Challenges in Skin UV Protection: A Review

UV radiation is one of the critical environmental stress factors for human skin, which can trigger various problems such as pruritus, burning, erythema, premature skin aging and skin cancer. Hence, UV protection has become an indispensable daily routine and the use of topical sunscreen products is rapidly increasing. However, there are emerging concerns over the efficiency and safety of existing chemical and physical UV filters used in consumer products. Furthermore, there is no universally approved method for assessing sun protection efficiency regardless of the immediate end user need to develop safer sunscreen products that afford broad-spectrum photoprotection. It is evident that the current organic and inorganic UV filters have significant unfavorable impacts on human, environmental, and marine safety. Therefore, effective alternative UV filters should be established. This article comprehensively reviews the properties, safety, health and ecological concerns of various UV filters including TiO₂ and ZnO nanoparticles as well as the limitations of the testing protocols and guidelines provided by major regulatory bodies. The photoreactivity of UV filters used in sunscreen remains a major challenge, and it is crucial to develop new sunscreen ingredients, which not only protect the consumer, but also the environment.

Antioxidants as stabilizers of UV filters: an example for the UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate

Background

Sunlight is one of the main harmful exogenous factors that induce the reactive oxygen species formation. The human skin is the first line of photoprotection against harmful exogenous factors, such as UV radiations. The topical application of sunscreens, containing UV-B filters, is widely used to protect against UV-induced damage. Octylmethoxycinnamate is the world’s most widely used UV-B filter in sunscreens. However, recent studies have demonstrated that this substance is an endocrine disruptor compound and with potential to damage DNA. Thus, the safety of this organic filter is a current concern for human health, and it was urgent to develop new photoprotective strategies. In this sense, due to the potential to neutralize the UV-induced free radicals, the use of antioxidants as UV filter stabilizers presented as a novel promising strategy.

Research

The purpose of this review was to assess the use of antioxidants as stabilizers for UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate. For this, we discuss the chemical and physical characteristics of UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate, emphasizing the stability, photostability, and reactivity of this UV filter. The use of antioxidants in sunscreens will also be addressed, from a perspective of the main characteristics that allowed their use in sunscreen formulations. Then, the concomitant use of both was described from a historical and physical chemical perspective, always emphasizing the advantages and disadvantages of this association.

Conclusions

The combination of antioxidants with UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate in appropriated formulations represents a viable strategy to protect the human skin against UV-induced damage.

Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains as bioindicators for titanium dioxide sunscreen photoprotective and photomutagenic assessment

Although several short-term assays are available for cosmetic photosafety assessment, cell models are usually highly sensitive to UV radiation, tending to overestimate both phototoxic and photomutagenic risks. In addition, these assays are performed with UV doses/fluences that do not correspond to actual environmental conditions. In this sense, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has already proved to be an interesting tool to predict photomutagenic potential of several compounds, including sunscreens. Yeast can support environmental UVB doses compatible with human daily sunlight exposure, allowing the use of irradiation sources to faithfully mimic the external conditions of ambient sunlight. Herein, we used a set of S. cerevisiae mutant strains sensitive to UVA, UVB and Solar Simulated Light sources in order to evaluate their potential as bioindicators for sunscreen development. The bioindicator potential of the strains was tested with the widely-used titanium dioxide inorganic sunscreen. The AWP001 (yno1) and LPW002 (ogg1yno1) strains obtained in this study stood out as promising experimental tools for the validation of this assay. Overall, our results evidenced a set of S. cerevisiae strains particularly useful for evaluating both photoprotective (efficacy) and photo/antiphotomutagenic (safety) potential of UV filters, meeting the industries and regulatory agencies demand for robust and efficient in vitro screening tests.

Organic ultraviolet filters in nearshore waters and in the invasive lionfish (Pterois volitans) in Grenada, West Indies

Sunscreens and other personal care products use organic ultraviolet (UV) filters such as oxybenzone, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, Padimate-O, and octyl methoxycinnamate to prevent damage to human skin. While these compounds are effective at preventing sunburn, they have a demonstrated negative effect on cells and tissues across taxonomic levels. These compounds have a relatively short half-life in seawater but are continuously re-introduced via recreational activities and wastewater discharge, making them environmentally persistent. Because of this, testing seawater samples for the presence of these compounds may not be reflective of their abundance in the environment. Bioaccumulation of organic ultraviolet filters in a high-trophic level predator may provide greater insight to the presence and persistence of these compounds. To address this, the present study collected seawater samples as well as muscle and stomach content samples from the invasive Pacific lionfish (Pterois volitans) in the nearshore waters of Grenada, West Indies to examine the use of lionfish as potential bioindicator species. Seawater and lionfish samples were collected at four sites that are near point sources of wastewater discharge and that receive a high number of visitors each year. Samples were tested for the presence and concentrations of oxybenzone, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC), Padimate-O, and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. Oxybenzone residues were detected in 60% of seawater samples and OMC residues were detected in 20% of seawater samples. Seawater samples collected in the surface waters near Grenada's main beach had oxybenzone concentrations more than ten times higher than seawater samples collected in less frequently visited areas and the highest prevalence of UV filters in lionfish. Residues of oxybenzone were detected in 35% of lionfish muscle and 4-MBC residues were detected in 12% of lionfish muscle. Padimate-O was not detected in either seawater or lionfish samples. No organic UV filters were detected in lionfish stomach contents. Histopathologic examination of lionfish demonstrated no significant findings attributed to UV filter toxicity. These findings report UV filter residue levels for the first time in inshore waters in Grenada. Results indicate that lionfish may be bioaccumulating residues and may be a useful sentinel model for monitoring organic ultraviolet filters in the Caribbean Sea.

Sunscreen bans: Coral reefs and skin cancer

WHAT IS KNOWN AND OBJECTIVE

Hawaii will ban two major ingredients of sunscreens. This article reviews the reasons and future directions. Hawaii recently enacted legislation that will ban the use of two major ingredients of the majority of commonly used sunscreens. The reason for the ban is the ingredients' putative deleterious impact on marine ecosystems, particularly coral reefs. But sunscreens also save lives by decreasing the risk of UV-induced skin cancers. We review both sides of the issue and potential implications for the healthcare system.

COMMENT

Coral reefs consist of organisms in delicate equilibria that are susceptible to small changes in their surroundings. Recent natural and man-made disruptions, direct or indirect, such as changes in ocean temperature and chemistry, ingress of invasive species, pathogens, pollution and deleterious fishing practices, have been blamed for the poor health, or even the outright destruction, of some coral reefs. The most popular sunscreen products contain two ingredients-oxybenzone and octinoxate-that have also been implicated in coral toxicity and will be banned. This creates a healthcare dilemma: Will the protection of coral reefs result in an increase in human skin cancers?

WHAT IS NEW AND CONCLUSION

Concentration estimates and mechanism studies support an association-direct or indirect (via promotion of viral infection)-of sunscreens with bleaching of coral reefs. A ban on the two most common sunscreen ingredients goes into effect in Hawaii on January 1, 2021. Proponents suggest that this is a trend, just the first of many such bans worldwide; opponents warn of a dire increase in human skin cancers. As a result, alternative sunscreen compounds are being sought.

Photoprotection of ultraviolet-B filters: Updated review of endocrine disrupting properties

The Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is emitted by the sun and is part of the electromagnetic spectrum. There are three types of UV rays (UV-A, UV-B and UV-C), however only UV-A and UV-B have biologic effects in humans, with UV-B radiation being primarily responsible for these effects. Among the measures of photoprotection advised by the health authorities, the topical application of sunscreens (containing UV-B filters) is the preferred worldwide. Currently, octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC) is the most commonly used UV-B filter in sunscreens. Their application has proven to be effective in preventing burns, but its efficiency against melanoma continues under intense controversy. Studies have shown that OMC behaves like an endocrine disruptor, altering the normal functioning of organisms. However, few studies have evaluated their multiple hormonal activities. Some studies suggest that the OMC exerts an estrogenic, anti-androgenic, anti-progestenic and anti-thyroid activity. But, through what mechanisms? In humans, few studies were performed, and some questions remain unclear. Thus, the purpose of this review is to present the multiple hormonal activities established for the OMC, making a critical analysis and relationship between the effects in cells, animals and humans.