Penetration pathways of fluorescent dyes in human hair fibres investigated by scanning near-field optical microscopy

Recent Advancements in Natural Plant Colorants Used for Hair Dye Applications: A Review

There is an on-going demand in recent years for safer and "greener" hair coloring agents with the global consumer awareness of the adverse effects of synthetic hair dyes. The belief in sustainability and health benefits has focused the attention of the scientific community towards natural colorants that serve to replace their synthetic toxic counterparts. This review article encompasses the historical applications of a vast array of natural plant hair dyes and summarizes the possible coloration mechanisms (direct dyeing and mordant dyeing). Current information on phytochemicals (quinones, tannins, flavonoids, indigo, curcuminoids and carotenoids) used for hair dyeing are summarized, including their botanical sources, color chemistry and biological/toxicological activities. A particular focus is given on research into new natural hair dye sources along with eco-friendly, robust and cost-effective technologies for their processing and applications, such as the synthetic biology approach for colorant production, encapsulation techniques for stabilization and the development of inorganic nanocarriers. In addition, innovative in vitro approaches for the toxicological assessments of natural hair dye cosmetics are highlighted.

Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair

Objective

To investigate the effects of different molecular weight (MW), wool derived hydrolysed keratins (i.e. peptides) on the physical properties of relaxed textured hair.

Methods

Very curly hair of African origin was relaxed using sodium hydroxide‐based treatment. Relaxed hair was treated with different MW peptides derived from keratin protein and an amino acid, L‐Leucine. The low‐MW keratin peptides were 221 Da, the mid‐MW keratin peptides were approximately 2577 Da, and the high‐MW keratin peptides were approximately 75 440 Da. The penetration of these different peptides into relaxed hair was evaluated using a laser scanning micrometre and by fluorescence microscopy. The effect of these compounds on single‐fibre mechanical properties and thermal properties was evaluated using tensile and DSC testing, respectively.

Results

Low‐ and mid‐MW compounds were able to penetrate deep into the hair cortex. High‐MW peptide adsorbed onto the hair surface and possibly slightly penetrated into the outer layers of the fibre surface. Both mid‐ and high‐MW keratin peptides, increased Young’s modulus and reduced hair breakage at 20% and 80% relative humidity. With the exception of mid‐MW peptide, other peptides and amino acid were not able to modify thermal properties of relaxed textured hair.

Conclusions

Our data suggest that low‐MW compounds may increase hair volume, and high‐MW peptides may repair damage on freshly relaxed textured hair.

Strategies for improved hair binding: Keratin fractions and the impact of cationic substructures

Keratin extracts and hydrolysates from varying sources, their chemical modifications and compositions thereof have shown potential in the restoration of hair properties. Within this study on reactivity of thiol groups and the shielding effect of anionic charges the binding of keratin-associated proteins (KAP) and α-keratins (Ker) extracted from human hair to natural and permed hair fibers was evaluated. Selectively extracted KAP and Ker were preactivated with 6-mercaptonicotinamide in a quantity of 194 ± 21 μmol/g for KAP and 169 ± 27 μmol/g for Ker resulting in 1.9- and 1.4-fold enhanced binding to natural hair, respectively. The amount of accumulated Ker on hair fibers was furthermore increased by 1.7-fold in presence of 25 mM L-arginine. Perming of hair impaired binding characteristics of Ker with negligible effects for preactivation, whereas unmodified and preactivated KAP showed results comparable to natural hair. Strongly enhanced penetrability after perming was reflected by the mean penetration depth for fluorescein of 25 μm compared to 5 μm for natural fibers.

Structure, morphology and composition of fur on different parts of reindeer (Rangifer Tarandus) foot

In the long-distance migration of reindeer in winter, furs of reindeer foot, as the part in direct contacting with the external environment, can play the role of protection and heat preservation. With furs on different parts of the right posterior foot (fibular side, tibial side and planta pedis) as research objects, the microstructure of reindeer foot furs was observed with a scanning electron microscope. The image displayed that the reindeer foot furs was divided into 3 layers, namely cuticular layer, cortical layer and medulla layer. It was observed from the fur surface that the scales of fur on tibial side had smooth edge, with the scale structure in mosaic and coronary types. The scale structure of furs on the other parts showed the irregular waves due to abrasion to different degrees. From the cross-section view of fur, there was a non-medullated segment on the medial part of fur on planta pedis. The medulla layer of fibular and tibial sides showed a porous foam structure. The medulla index (MI) of fur on fibular side and tibial side at distal part was 70.35% and 81.79%, respectively, and MI at medial part was 77.88% and 88.08%. The composition of reindeer foot fur was measured through infrared spectroscopy and energy spectrum analysis respectively. The element contents of foot fur varied on different parts. The content of sulfur of the furs on planta pedis was higher than that on other parts. The research results can provide foundations for the functional study and bionic design of reindeer foot furs during long distance migration and swimming.

Prevention of lipid loss from hair by surface and internal modification

Surfactants during routine washing have a tremendous effect on lipid loss from hair. This study aims to understand the loss of lipids from hair upon contact with surfactants and develop a way to prevent the lipid loss. The change in lipid levels depends on the relative hydrophobicity of the lipid. We herein propose that the change in lipid levels can be protected by two modifications. In the case of fatty acids and cholesterol (group A), the concentration difference between virgin hair versus surface modified hair with highly charged polymer was 22 to 32% higher after washing with surfactants while the loss of squalene and wax esters (group B) in response to surfactants still occurred even after the surface modification. In the hair treated by internal modification with the carbodiimide reaction, 52.0 to 81.3% more lipids in group B were prevented than in the untreated hair. Finally, different types of lipids were successfully protected by surface and internal modifications from the surfactant treatment. This study will be the basis for understanding the mechanisms by which surfactants damage the lipid barrier of tissues including hair and for establishing strategies to defend the barrier.

Hair Analysis: Contamination versus Incorporation from the Circulatory System-Investigations on Single Hair Samples Using Time-of-Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry and Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption/Ionization Mass Spectrometry

Contamination is a highly controversial issue in hair analysis. Therefore, hair testing protocols typically include wash steps to remove contamination. However, recent studies claim that washing could also lead to permanent incorporation of contaminants into hair, thus questioning the validity of hair testing at all. In the present study, matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization mass spectrometry (MALDI-MS) with longitudinal sectioning of single hairs and different decontamination protocols was used to reveal differences between the incorporation of a substance into hair from external sources and an incorporation via bloodstream. Single hairs were longitudinally sectioned using a custom-made sample holder. Data were acquired with MALDI-MS by rastering each hair individually. Single hair samples from drug users, blank hairs, and zolpidem- and zolpidem-D6-soaked hairs were investigated. Different published washing protocols were tested, and an in-house washing protocol was developed. For images with higher spatial resolution, time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) was used. Longitudinal sectioning of hairs dramatically increased sensitivity; even single-dose administrations of zolpidem in single hairs could thus be detected using MALDI-MS. Zolpidem from external sources could be detected in large quantities in superficial hair structures. Zolpidem from consumer hairs, proposed to be strongly bound to inner hair structures, could not be completely removed even by the strongest tested decontamination protocol, whereas zolpidem-soaked hairs could be cleared almost completely with the developed in-house wash protocol. The applied methods allowed a first insight into the connection of decontamination protocols and wash-in phenomena in hair analysis. Further studies with other drugs are necessary to assess the general validity of these findings.

Kinetics and equilibrium of solute diffusion into human hair

The uptake kinetics of five molecules by hair has been measured and the effects of pH and physical chemical properties of molecules were investigated. A theoretical model is proposed to analyze the experimental data. The results indicate that the binding affinity of solute to hair, as characterized by hair-water partition coefficient, scales to the hydrophobicity of the solute and decreases dramatically as the pH increases to the dissociation constant. The effective diffusion coefficient of solute depended not only on the molecular size as most previous studies suggested, but also on the binding affinity as well as solute dissociation. It appears that the uptake of molecules by hair is due to both hydrophobic interaction and ionic charge interaction. Based on theoretical considerations of the cellular structure, composition and physical chemical properties of hair, quantitative-structure-property-relationships (QSPR) have been proposed to predict the hair-water partition coefficient (PC) and the effective diffusion coefficient (D (e)) of solute. The proposed QSPR models fit well with the experimental data. This paper could be taken as a reference for investigating the adsorption properties for polymeric materials, fibres, and biomaterials.

Quantitative detection of chemical compounds in human hair with coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering microscopy

Coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS) microscopy is used to determine the distribution and concentration of selected compounds in intact human hair. By generating images based on ratiometric CARS contrast, quantitative concentration maps of both water and externally applied d-glycine are produced in the cortex of human hair fibers. Both water and d-glycine are found to homogeneously distribute throughout the cortical regions of the hair. The ability to selectively detect molecular agents in hair fibers is of direct relevance to understanding the chemical and physical mechanisms that underlie the performance of hair-care products.

Diffusion of permanent liquid dye molecules in human hair investigated by positron lifetime spectroscopy

The diffusion behavior of a commercial permanent liquid hair dye in human hair has been investigated using positron annihilation lifetime spectroscopy (PALS) and gravimetric sorption method. The positron technique makes it possible to non-invasively characterize the angstrom sized free volume holes in hair, which are supposed to be express pathways for diffusion of small molecules. The o-Ps lifetime parameters tau3 and I3 decrease rapidly during the first 60 min of sorption time. The overall decrease in o-Ps lifetime (tau3) was well over 200 ps and o-Ps intensity (I3) drops by 3.5%. These positron results are explained in terms of dye molecules filling the free volume holes and hair morphology. The dye penetrates the cuticle rapidly, but slowly in cortex. The first hour of dyeing appears to be the most effective period of deposition of dye molecules within hair. These results are well corroborated by the sorption results which suggest that the dye diffusion is essentially a diffusion controlled (i.e. Fickian) process, with no observable relaxation effects. In the latter part of the sorption, where positron parameters remain almost constant, mass increase might be due to surface adhesion. These two stages of sorption are well separated by the positron technique. The sorption curve also yielded an average value of apparent diffusivity of the dye in hair. From this study, we conclude that the free volume theory and positron technique, widely used in polymer research, may expediently be used to understand hair properties, more importantly diffusion of dye molecules.

Electron microscopic observations of human hair medulla

In the study of human hair, medulla is the less studied structure because it is believed that it has no influence on the fibre properties. The aim of this paper is to contribute to the better understanding of medulla morphology. Using reproducible methods for hair samples preparations allowed observing the inner fibre by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and transmission electron microscopy (TEM). Three medulla subunits were observed in cryofractured samples. In addition, the application of plasma etching on samples allowed accessing chemical differences between them. Two kinds of medulla were identified using stereomicroscopy: thin and thick medulla. They were morphologically differentiated using TEM. These methods can be used to study systematically the effects of medulla on hair properties and to evaluate the efficiency of cosmetic products.

Investigation of dyed human hair fibres using apertureless near-field scanning optical microscopy

We present the first studies of dyed human hair fibres performed with an apertureless scanning near-field optical microscope. Samples consisted of 5-microm-thick cross-sections, the hair fibres being bleached and then dyed before being cut. Hair dyed with two molecular probes diffusing deep inside the fibre or mainly spreading at its periphery were investigated at a wavelength of 655 nm. An optical resolution of about 50 nm was achieved, well below the diffraction limit; the images exhibited different optical contrasts in the cuticle region, depending on the nature of the dye. Our results suggest that the dye that remains confined at the hair periphery is mainly located at its surface and in the endocuticle.

Penetration and distribution of three lipophilic probes in vitro in human skin focusing on the hair follicle

Fluorescent model substances of increasing lipophilicity (Oregon Green) 488, Bodipy, FL C5 and Bodipy 564/570 C5) were selected to enable the visualization in the skin using confocal laser scanning microscopy. After measuring the penetration for 18 h, the nonfixed human scalp skin was imaged from the bottom parallel to the stratum corneum and in a cross-section view perpendicular to the skin surface. The images were evaluated by calculating relative accumulation values for different penetrants. The studies indicate that the penetrated amount is highest for Bodipy FL C5 (medium lipophilicity) and lowest for Bodipy 564/570 C5 (high lipophilicity) whereas Bodipy 564/570 C5 (high lipophilicity) reveals the highest relative accumulation in parts of the hair follicle compared to Oregon Green 488 (low lipophilicity). The addition of 30% (v/v) ethanol to the donor phase of substance with a low lipophilicity increases the follicular delivery. From our results we conclude that delivery to the hair follicle can be improved by increasing the drugs lipophilicity and optimizing the composition of the donor phase. However, no conclusion can be drawn about the actual route of transport to the hair follicle.

Cosmetic assessment of the human hair by confocal microscopy

The optical sectioning property of the confocal microscope offers a breakthrough from the classic observation of the hair in a scanning electron microscope (SEM). Confocal microscopy requires minimal sampling preparation, and the hair can be observed in its natural environment with less damage than by other microscopic methods such as SEM. While used in the reflection mode, the true morphology of the cuticle and the various exogenous deposits at the surface can be identified and quantified. This relatively noninvasive, nondestructive technique is routinely used by us to monitor the efficiency of cleansing shampoos, to assess the homogeneity of layering polymers, and to evaluate the changes they induce in the optical properties of the hair surface in terms of opacity, transparency, and brilliancy. A second important field of investigation uses the fluorescence channel which reveals the internal structure of the hair. Fluorescent probes (rhodamine and its derivatives) demonstrate the routes of penetration and outline the geometry of cortical cells and of the medulla according to their lipophilic or hydrophilic properties. A volume rendering of a hair cylinder provides a better understanding of the interrelationships between cuticle cells, cortical cells, and the medullar channel. This recent technology is becoming an invaluable tool for the cosmetic assessment of the hair.