Cross talk between calcium and ROS regulate the UVA-induced melanin response in human melanocytes

Role of Mitochondrial Dysfunction in UV-Induced Photoaging and Skin Cancers

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the most detrimental external factor that induces acute photodamage, photoaging and skin cancers, with complex underlying molecular mechanisms initiated mainly by increased DNA damage and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. Mitochondria are the main organelles in skin cells that produce ROS and energy and regulate various physiological and pathological signalling pathways. Continuous UVR on human skin can induce mitochondrial DNA mutations and excessive ROS production, creating feedback between each other and subsequently causing a reduction in mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP) and respiratory capacity. Deficiencies in mitochondrial function can induce apoptosis, mitophagy and senescence, resulting in UVR-induced skin photodamage and photoaging. Mitochondrial biogenesis and metabolic pathways play critical roles in the progression of skin cancers, particularly melanoma, which is the most malignant and infrequent type of cancer. In this review, we describe the recent advances in determining the intimate relationship between mitochondrial function and UVR-induced skin damage, suggesting potential molecular candidates and novel chemical/natural components to protect the skin from photoaging and skin cancers via mitochondrial targeting mechanisms.

Sunscreens in pigmentary disorders: time to revise the message

Current sunscreen messaging centres around skin cancer prevention, with an emphasis on mitigating the damaging effects of ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation. Darker skin is believed to be better protected against UVB owing to its higher melanin content, and therefore, this messaging has been largely targeted at people with lighter skin tones. This is reflected by low sunscreen use by people of darker skin types. However, visible light (VL) is now being appreciated as a culprit behind exacerbation of disorders of hyperpigmentation such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) which is known to significantly impair quality of life (QoL) of those affected. The role of VL in melanogenesis is not well known to patients nor to dermatologists and is a missed opportunity in the management of pigmentary disorders. We propose that changing the terminology from 'sunscreen' to 'light protection' acknowledges the central role of VL in melanogenesis, underlining the importance of VL protection and making the messaging more inclusive for people of all skin colours.

ROS and calcium signaling are critical determinant of skin pigmentation

Pigmentation is a protective phenomenon that shields skin cells from UV-induced DNA damage. Perturbations in pigmentation pathways predispose to skin cancers and lead to pigmentary disorders. These ailments impart psychological trauma and severely affect the patients' quality of life. Emerging literature suggests that reactive oxygen species (ROS) and calcium (Ca2+) signaling modules regulate physiological pigmentation. Further, pigmentary disorders are associated with dysregulated ROS homeostasis and changes in Ca2+ dynamics. Here, we systemically review the literature that demonstrates key role of ROS and Ca2+ signaling in pigmentation and pigmentary disorders. Further, we discuss recent studies, which have revealed that organelle-specific Ca2+ transport mechanisms are critical determinant of pigmentation. Importantly, we deliberate upon the possibility of clinical management of pigmentary disorders by therapeutically targeting ROS generation and cellular Ca2+ handling toolkit. Finally, we highlight the key outstanding questions in the field that demand critical and timely attention. Although an important role of ROS and Ca2+ signaling in regulating skin pigmentation has emerged, the underlying molecular mechanisms remain poorly understood. In future, it would be vital to investigate in detail the signaling cascades that connect perturbed ROS homeostasis and Ca2+ signaling to human pigmentary disorders.

Ferulic Acid Protects Human Lens Epithelial Cells Against UVA-Induced Oxidative Damage by Downregulating the DNA Demethylation of the Keap1 Promoter

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation-triggered production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) is a primary contributor to apoptosis in human lens epithelial cells (HLECs), which can ultimately result in cataract formation. The nuclear factor erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)-Kelch ECH associating protein 1 (Keap1) pathway, a fundamental oxidative stress regulation mechanism, plays a crucial role in the development of cataracts. Ferulic acid (FA), recognized for its potent antioxidant properties can activate the Nrf2 signaling pathway to mitigate oxidative damage and cell apoptosis. In this study, we have demonstrated the protective effects of FA in reducing UVA-induced oxidative damage and apoptosis in HLECs through the modulation of the Keap1/Nrf2 pathway, as evidenced by both cellular and animal experiments. HLECs and Lens were exposed to 10 J/cm2 UVA radiation with or without prior treatment with FA. We found that UVA radiation increased oxidative damage and cell apoptosis in HLECs, ultimately leading to opacification of rat lenses, while FA was able to attenuate both oxidative damage and cell apoptosis in HLECs and reduce the degree of lens opacification. FA upregulated the expression of antioxidant response factors of the Keap1/Nrf2 pathway and downregulated the expression of apoptosis-related genes in HLECs, as demonstrated by Western blot and RT-qPCR analyses. We also found that UVA radiation increased the degree of demethylation of the Keap1 promoter in HLECs, whereas FA reduced the level of Keap1 promoter demethylation as determined by DNA sequencing. Additionally, UVA upregulated the expression of DNA active demethylase of the Keap1 promoter in HLECs, Dnmt1, Dnmt3a, and Dnmt3b, as shown by immunofluorescence, Western blot, and RT-qPCR, however, FA attenuated the activity of the passive demethylase TET1 in addition to the active demethylases. These results demonstrated that UVA radiation can cause oxidative damage, cell apoptosis, and rat lens opacification by increasing the demethylation of the Keap1 promoter in lens epithelial cells. Conversely, FA was shown to reduce oxidative damage, inhibit cell apoptosis, and decrease rat lens opacification by increasing the methylation of the Keap1 promoter. These findings suggest that FA could be therapeutically beneficial in preventing and mitigating cataracts induced by UVA radiation.

Current Insights into the Role of UV Radiation-Induced Oxidative Stress in Melanoma Pathogenesis

Cutaneous melanoma accounts for the majority of skin cancer-related deaths, and its incidence increases each year. The growing number of melanoma cases, especially in advanced stages, poses a significant socio-medical challenge throughout the world. Extensive research on melanoma pathogenesis identifies UV radiation as the most important factor in melanocytic transformation. Oxidative effects of UV irradiation exert their influence on melanoma pathogenesis primarily through modification of nucleic acids, proteins, and lipids, further disrupting cellular signaling and cell cycle regulation. Its effects extend beyond melanocytes, leading to immunosuppression in the exposed skin tissue, which consequently creates conditions for immune surveillance evasion and further progression. In this review, we focus on the specific molecular changes observed in the UV-dependent oxidative stress environment and their biological consequences in the course of the disease, which have not been considered in previous reviews on melanoma. Nonetheless, data show that the exact role of oxidative stress in melanoma initiation and progression remains unclear, as it affects cancerous cells differently depending on the specific context. A better understanding of the pathophysiological basis of melanoma development holds promise for identifying potential targets, which could lead to effective melanoma prevention strategies.

Unlocking the Bioactive Potential and Exploring Novel Applications for Portuguese Endemic Santolina impressa

The infusion of Santolina impressa, an endemic Portuguese plant, is traditionally used to treat various infections and disorders. This study aimed to assess its chemical profile by HPLC-DAD-ESI-MSn and validate its anti-inflammatory potential. In addition, the antioxidant capacity and effects on wound healing, lipogenesis, melanogenesis, and cellular senescence, all processes in which a dysregulated inflammatory response plays a pivotal role, were unveiled. The anti-inflammatory potential was assessed in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated macrophages, cell migration was determined using a scratch wound assay, lipogenesis was assessed on T0901317-stimulated keratinocytes and melanogenesis on 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX)-activated melanocytes. Etoposide was used to induce senescence in fibroblasts. Our results point out a chemical composition predominantly characterized by dicaffeoylquinic acids and low amounts of flavonols. Regarding the infusion's bioactive potential, an anti-inflammatory effect was evident through a decrease in nitric oxide production and inducible nitric oxide synthase and pro-interleukin-1β protein levels. Moreover, a decrease in fibroblast migration was observed, as well as an inhibition in both intracellular lipid accumulation and melanogenesis. Furthermore, the infusion decreased senescence-associated β-galactosidase activity, γH2AX nuclear accumulation and both p53 and p21 protein levels. Overall, this study confirms the traditional uses of S. impressa and ascribes additional properties of interest in the pharmaceutical and dermocosmetics industries.

The metabolism of melanin synthesis-From melanocytes to melanoma

Melanin synthesis involves the successful coordination of metabolic pathways across multiple intracellular compartments including the melanosome, mitochondria, ER/Golgi, and cytoplasm. While pigment production offers a communal protection from UV damage, the process also requires anabolic and redox demands that must be carefully managed by melanocytes. In this report we provide an updated review on melanin metabolism, including recent data leveraging new techniques, and technologies in the field of metabolism. We also discuss the many aspects of melanin synthesis that intersect with metabolic pathways known to impact melanoma phenotypes and behavior. By reviewing the metabolism of melanin synthesis, we hope to highlight outstanding questions and opportunities for future research that could improve patient outcomes in pigmentary and oncologic disease settings.

Factors Influencing Effects of Low-dose Radiation Exposure

ABSTRACT

It is now well accepted that the mechanisms induced by low-dose exposures to ionizing radiation (LDR) are different from those occurring after high-dose exposures. However, the downstream effects of these mechanisms are unclear as are the quantitative relationships between exposure, effect, harm, and risk. In this paper, we will discuss the mechanisms known to be important with an overall emphasis on how so-called "non-targeted effects" (NTE) communicate and coordinate responses to LDR. Targeted deposition of ionizing radiation energy in cells causing DNA damage is still regarded as the dominant trigger leading to all downstream events whether targeted or non-targeted. We regard this as an over-simplification dating back to formal target theory. It ignores that last 100 y of biological research into stress responses and signaling mechanisms in organisms exposed to toxic substances, including ionizing radiation. We will provide evidence for situations where energy deposition in cellular targets alone cannot be plausible as a mechanism for LDR effects. An example is where the energy deposition takes place in an organism not receiving the radiation dose. We will also discuss how effects after LDR depend more on dose rate and radiation quality rather than actual dose, which appears rather irrelevant. Finally, we will use recent evidence from studies of cataract and melanoma induction to suggest that after LDR, post-translational effects, such as protein misfolding or defects in energy metabolism or mitochondrial function, may dominate the etiology and progression of the disease. A focus on such novel pathways may open the way to successful prophylaxis and development of new biomarkers for better risk assessment after low dose exposures.

Furocoumarins potentiate UVA-induced DNA damage in skin melanocytes

Epidemiological studies have found that high citrus fruit consumption was associated with higher risk of skin cancer. Citrus fruits and some vegetables contain furocoumarins, which may interact with ultraviolet radiation to induce skin cancer. We aimed to determine the effects of two furocoumarins, including 8-methoxypsoralen (8-MOP) and 6',7'-dihydroxybergamottin (DHB), on UVA-induced DNA damage in human epidermal melanocytes, the origin of melanoma. Our hypothesis was that these dietary furocoumarins increase UVA-induced DNA damage in melanocytes, compared to cells exposed to UV alone. We incubated melanocytes with 8-MOP or DHB, followed by exposure to physiological doses of UVA radiation. We used Western blots to quantify the UVA-induced DNA damage measured by the fraction of phosphorylated histone variant H2AX (γH2AX), which is a marker of DNA damage, relative to total H2AX (γH2AX/H2AX) in the presence or absence of furocoumarins. To quantify the UVA-induced change in γH2AX/H2AX, we calculated the UVA:Control ratio as the ratio of γH2AX/H2AX in UVA-exposed cells to that in cells without UVA (control). The mean UVA:Control ratios were borderline significantly higher for cells treated with 8-MOP and significantly higher for cells treated with DHB, compared to that of untreated cells. This study suggests that furocoumarins (particularly 8-MOP and DHB) enhance UVA-induced DNA damage in melanocytes, which is a potential novel mechanism for citrus and furocoumarins to elevate the risk of skin cancer.

Dietary flavonoid myricetin 3-O-galactoside suppresses α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells by regulating PKA and ERK1/2 activation

Melanogenesis is the process where skin pigment melanin is produced through tyrosinase activity. Overproduction of melanin causes skin disorders such as freckles, spots, and hyperpigmentation. Myricetin 3-O-galactoside (M3G) is a dietary flavonoid with reported bioactivities. M3G was isolated from Limonium tetragonum and its anti-melanogenic properties were investigated in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells. The in vitro anti-melanogenic capacity of M3G was confirmed by inhibited tyrosinase and melanin production. M3G-mediated suppression of melanogenic proteins, tyrosinase, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), and tyrosinase-related proteins (TRP)-1 and TRP-2, were confirmed by mRNA and protein levels, analyzed by RT-qPCR and Western blot, respectively. Furthermore, M3G suppressed Wnt signaling through the inhibition of PKA phosphorylation. M3G also suppressed the consequent phosphorylation of CREB and nuclear levels of MITF. Analysis of MAPK activation further revealed that M3G increased the activation of ERK1/2 while p38 and JNK activation remained unaffected. Results showed that M3G suppressed melanogenesis in B16F10 cells by decreasing tyrosinase production and therefore inhibiting melanin formation. A possible action mechanism was the suppression of CREB activation and upregulation of ERK phosphorylation which might cause the decreased nuclear levels of MITF. In conclusion, M3G was suggested to be a potential nutraceutical with anti-melanogenic properties.

Responsive calcium-derived nanoassemblies induce mitochondrial disorder to promote tumor calcification

Physiological calcification of the treated tumor area is considered to be a predictor of good prognosis. Promoting tumor calcification by inducing mitochondrial metabolic disorder and destroying calcium equilibrium has a potential inhibitory effect on tumor proliferation. Here, by promoting calcification by inducing mitochondrial dysfunction combined with triggering a surge of reactive oxygen species, we construct a bioresponsive calcification initiator, termed CaP-AA, using CaHPO4 covalently doped l-ascorbic acid. CaHPO4 releases Ca2+ within the cytoplasm of tumor cells to trigger calcium overload. Meanwhile, exogenous l-ascorbic acid indirectly enhances metabolic balance disruption via pro-oxidant effects. Such Ca2+ overload increases the likelihood of tumor calcification in vivo for tumor inhibition by perturbing mitochondrial homeostasis. The introduction of responsive calcium sources that would, in turn, trigger intratumoral calcification mediated by perturbing mitochondrial homeostasis would be an effective regulatory strategy for tumor therapy.

1,25-Dihydroxvitamin D3 attenuates the damage of human immortalized keratinocytes caused by Ultraviolet-B

Objective Ultraviolet-B (UVB) radiation is an important factor in causing skin damage. The study is to explore whether 1,25-Dihydroxvitamin D3(1,25(OH)₂D₃) will attenuate the damage of human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells caused by UVB and relevant underlying mechanisms.

METHODS

CCK-8 was employed to determine the UVB irradiation intensity and 1,25(OH)₂D₃ concentration. Western blot was used to detect the expression of NF-κB, Caspase9, Caspase3, Bax, Bcl2, FADD, CytC, Beclin-1; Flowcytometry was applied to measure the production of ROS.

RESULTS

The concentration of 1,25(OH)₂D₃ used in the study was 100nM and the UVB irradiation intensity was 20 mJ/cm². Compared with the HaCaT cells irradiated with UVB, the HaCaT cells were pretreated with 1,25(OH)₂D₃ had lower production of ROS, lower expression of NF-κB, Caspase9, Caspase3, Bax, FADD, CytC and Beclin-1(P < 0.05).

CONCLUSION

1,25(OH)₂D₃ could inhibit the development of oxidative stress and apoptosis in HaCaTs triggered by UVB. This inhibition might be achieved through suppression of mitochondria-modulated apoptosis and autophagy. Vitamin D may be a potential UVB protective component.

Exploring the role of mitochondria transfer/transplant and their long-non-coding RNAs in regenerative therapies for skin aging

Advancing age and environmental stressors lead to mitochondrial dysfunction in the skin, inducing premature aging, impaired regeneration, and greater risk of cancer. Cells rely on the communication between the mitochondria and the nucleus by tight regulation of long non-coding RNAs (lncRNAs) to avoid premature aging and maintain healthy skin. LncRNAs act as key regulators of cell proliferation, differentiation, survival, and maintenance of skin structure. However, research on how the lncRNAs are dysregulated during aging and due to stressors is needed to develop therapies to regenerate skin's function and structure. In this article, we discuss how age and environmental stressors may alter lncRNA homeodynamics, compromising cell survival and skin health, and how these factors may become inducers of skin aging. We describe skin cell types and how they depend on mitochondrial function and lncRNAs. We also provide a list of mitochondria localized and nuclear lncRNAs that can serve to better understand skin aging. Using bioinformatic prediction tools, we predict possible functions of lncRNAs based on their subcellular localization. We also search for experimentally determined protein interactions and the biological processes involved. Finally, we provide therapeutic strategies based on gene editing and mitochondria transfer/transplant (AMT/T) to restore lncRNA regulation and skin health. This article offers a unique perspective in understanding and defining the therapeutic potential of mitochondria localized lncRNAs (mt-lncRNAs) and AMT/T to treat skin aging and related diseases.

Melanogenesis Inhibitory Activity, Chemical Components and Molecular Docking Studies of Prunus cerasoides Buch.-Ham. D. Don. Flowers

Safe depigmenting agents are currently increasing in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical industry because various compounds have been found to have undesirable side effects. Therefore, the present study aimed to investigate the melanogenesis inhibitory effects of Prunus cerasoides Buch. -Ham. D. Don. flower extracts and their molecular mechanism in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. Moreover, we also examined phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant activity, chemical constituents of potential extracts, and molecular docking. The highest phenolic and flavonoid contents with the greatest scavenging activity were found in the butanol extract of the P. cerasoides flower compared to other extracts. From all extracts, only crude, diethyl ether, and butanol extracts showed an inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity, cellular tyrosinase activity, and melanin content as well as the downregulation of the gene expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. Based on the molecular docking study, n-hexadecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, 9,12-octadecadienoic acid, 9,12,15-octadecanoic acid, and eicosanoic acid might show an inhibitory effect against tyrosinase and MITF. In conclusion, this finding demonstrates that both the diethyl ether and butanol extracts of the P. cerasoides flower can effectively reduce tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis through the downregulation of the melanogenic gene expression in B16F10 cells and through the molecular docking study. Taken together, the diethyl ether and butanol extracts of the P. cerasoides flower could be an anti-melanogenic ingredient for hyperpigmentary or melasma treatment.

Diagnostic and Therapeutic Roles of Extracellular Vesicles in Aging-Related Diseases

Aging shows a decline in overall physical function, and cellular senescence is the powerful catalyst leading to aging. Considering that aging will be accompanied with the emergence of various aging-related diseases, research on new antiaging drugs is still valuable. Extracellular vesicles (EVs), as tools for intercellular communication, are important components of the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), and they can play pathological roles in the process of cellular senescence. In addition, EVs are similar to their original cells in functions. Therefore, EVs derived from pathological tissues or body fluids may be closely related to the progression of diseases and become potential biomarkers, while those from healthy cells may have therapeutic effects. Moreover, EVs are satisfactory drug carriers. At present, numerous studies have supported the idea that engineered EVs could improve drug targeting ability and utilization efficiency. Here, we summarize the characteristics of EVs and cellular senescence and focus on the diagnostic and therapeutic potential of EVs in various aging-related diseases, including Alzheimer disease, osteoporosis, cardiovascular disease, diabetes mellitus and its complications, and skin aging.

The Nanostructured lipid carrier gel of Oroxylin A reduced UV-induced skin oxidative stress damage

Oxidative stress damage caused by sun exposure damages the appearance and function of the skin, which is one of the essential inducements of skin aging and even leads to skin cancer. Oroxylin A (OA) is a flavonoid with excellent antioxidant activity and has protective effects against photoaging induced by UV irradiation. However, the strong barrier function of the skin stratum corneum prevents transdermal absorption of the drug, which limits the application of OA in dermal drug delivery. Studies have shown that nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) can promote not only transdermal absorption of drugs but also increase drug stability and control drug release efficiency, which has broad prospects for clinical applications. In this paper, NLC loaded with OA (OA-NLC) was prepared in order to improve the skin permeability and stability of OA. In vitro studies revealed that OA-NLC had better therapeutic effects than OA solution (OA-Sol) in the cellular model of UVB radiation. OA-Sol and OA-NLC were immobilized in a hydrogel matrix to facilitate application to the dorsal skin of mice. It was found that OA-NLC-gel showed significant antioxidant and anti-apoptotic activity compared to OA-Sol-gel, which was able to protect against skin damage in mice after UV radiation. These results suggest that OA-NLC can improve the deficiencies of OA in skin delivery and show better resistance to UV-induced oxidative damage. The application of OA-NLC to skin delivery systems has good prospects and deserves further development and investigation.

The Damaging Effects of Long UVA (UVA1) Rays: A Major Challenge to Preserve Skin Health and Integrity

Within solar ultraviolet (UV) light, the longest UVA1 wavelengths, with significant and relatively constant levels all year round and large penetration properties, produce effects in all cutaneous layers. Their effects, mediated by numerous endogenous chromophores, primarily involve the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The resulting oxidative stress is the major mode of action of UVA1, responsible for lipid peroxidation, protein carbonylation, DNA lesions and subsequent intracellular signaling cascades. These molecular changes lead to mutations, apoptosis, dermis remodeling, inflammatory reactions and abnormal immune responses. The altered biological functions contribute to clinical consequences such as hyperpigmentation, inflammation, photoimmunosuppression, sun allergies, photoaging and photocancers. Such harmful impacts have also been reported after the use of UVA1 phototherapy or tanning beds. Furthermore, other external aggressors, such as pollutants and visible light (Vis), were shown to induce independent, cumulative and synergistic effects with UVA1 rays. In this review, we synthetize the biological and clinical effects of UVA1 and the complementary effects of UVA1 with pollutants or Vis. The identified deleterious biological impact of UVA1 contributing to clinical consequences, combined with the predominance of UVA1 rays in solar UV radiation, constitute a solid rational for the need for a broad photoprotection, including UVA1 up to 400 nm.

The critical role of glutathione redox homeostasis towards oxidation in ermanin-induced melanogenesis

Vitiligo is a depigmented disease featured as diagnosis simplicity and cure difficulty. Its occurrence and development are associated with a variety of factors, including oxidative stress, heredity and immunity, etc. Existing drugs for the treatment of vitiligo are to reduce the death of melanocytes and induce pigment accumulation as the main treatment strategy. Ermanin, a member of the flavonoids, is extracted from bee glue which is wildly used to treat vitiligo in traditional Chinese medicine. Therefore, this article discusses the relationship between melanogenesis and glutathione redox homeostasis by ermanin via biochemical and free radical approaches in vivo and in vitro. In this study, we found that ermanin effectively increased the melanin content at the in vivo model (zebrafish). Moreover, the melanin levels at the in vitro models (B16F10 cells and primary melanocytes) were also increased significantly accompanied with a shift of glutathione redox homeostasis towards oxidation. Ermanin also significantly enhanced the activity of tyrosinase. Meanwhile, ermanin increased the expression levels of TYR, TRP-1, and DCT genes, while ROS accumulation and glutathione depletion mediated the accumulation of pigments caused by ermanin, which increased the production of pigments and regulated the expression mRNA levels of TYR and DCT genes. From the perspective of pigment production regulation pathways, western blot showed that the pigment accumulation caused by ermanin was closely related to the CREB-MITF pathways, it activated CREB, TYR, TRP-1, and DCT proteins. The use of CREB specific inhibitor 666-15 and MITF inhibitor ML329 confirmed that the pigment accumulation caused by ermanin was positively correlated with CREB and MITF proteins. Our findings revealed the potential mechanisms by which ermanin promoted the production of melanin through activated CREB-MITF signaling pathway and glutathione redox homeostasis towards oxidation function as a signal are beneficial to melanin production and will help develop novel therapeutic approaches for vitiligo.

Oxidative stress in the skin: Impact and related protection

Skin, our first interface to the external environment, is subjected to oxidative stress caused by a variety of factors such as solar ultraviolet, infrared and visible light, environmental pollution, including ozone and particulate matters, and psychological stress. Excessive reactive species, including reactive oxygen species and reactive nitrogen species, exacerbate skin pigmentation and aging, which further lead to skin tone unevenness, pigmentary disorder, skin roughness and wrinkles. Besides these, skin microbiota are also a very important factor ensuring the proper functions of skin. While environmental factors such as UV and pollutants impact skin microbiota compositions, skin dysbiosis results in various skin conditions. In this review, we summarize the generation of oxidative stress from exogenous and endogenous sources. We further introduce current knowledge on the possible roles of oxidative stress in skin pigmentation and aging, specifically with emphasis on oxidative stress and skin pigmentation. Meanwhile, we summarize the science and rationale of using three well-known antioxidants, namely vitamin C, resveratrol and ferulic acid, in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Finally, we discuss the strategy for preventing oxidative stress-induced skin pigmentation and aging.

Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties

Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products.

Modulating skin colour: role of the thioredoxin and glutathione systems in regulating melanogenesis

Different skin colour among individuals is determined by the varying amount and types of melanin pigment. Melanin is produced in melanocytes, a type of dendritic cell located in the basal layer of the epidermis, through the process of melanogenesis. Melanogenesis consists of a series of biochemical and enzymatic reactions catalysed by tyrosinase and other tyrosinase-related proteins, leading to the formation of two types of melanin, eumelanin and pheomelanin. Melanogenesis can be regulated intrinsically by several signalling pathways, including the cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP)/protein kinase A (PKA), stem cell factor (SCF)/c-kit and wingless-related integration site (Wnt)/β-catenin signalling pathways. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the major extrinsic factor in the regulation of melanogenesis, through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Antioxidants or antioxidant systems, with the ability to scavenge ROS, may decrease melanogenesis. This review focuses on the two main cellular antioxidant systems, the thioredoxin (Trx) and glutathione (GSH) systems, and discusses their roles in melanogenesis. In the Trx system, high levels/activities of thioredoxin reductase (TrxR) are correlated with melanin formation. The GSH system is linked with regulating pheomelanin formation. Exogenous addition of GSH has been shown to act as a depigmenting agent, suggesting that other antioxidants may also have the potential to act as depigmenting agents for the treatment of human hyperpigmentation disorders.