An explanation for the mysterious distribution of melanin in human skin: a rare example of asymmetric (melanin) organelle distribution during mitosis of basal layer progenitor keratinocytes

Melanin's Journey from Melanocytes to Keratinocytes: Uncovering the Molecular Mechanisms of Melanin Transfer and Processing

Skin pigmentation ensures efficient photoprotection and relies on the pigment melanin, which is produced by epidermal melanocytes and transferred to surrounding keratinocytes. While the molecular mechanisms of melanin synthesis and transport in melanocytes are now well characterized, much less is known about melanin transfer and processing within keratinocytes. Over the past few decades, distinct models have been proposed to explain how melanin transfer occurs at the cellular and molecular levels. However, this remains a debated topic, as up to four different models have been proposed, with evidence presented supporting each. Here, we review the current knowledge on the regulation of melanin exocytosis, internalization, processing, and polarization. Regarding the different transfer models, we discuss how these might co-exist to regulate skin pigmentation under different conditions, i.e., constitutive and facultative skin pigmentation or physiological and pathological conditions. Moreover, we discuss recent evidence that sheds light on the regulation of melanin exocytosis by melanocytes and internalization by keratinocytes, as well as how melanin is stored within these cells in a compartment that we propose be named the melanokerasome. Finally, we review the state of the art on the molecular mechanisms that lead to melanokerasome positioning above the nuclei of keratinocytes, forming supranuclear caps that shield the nuclear DNA from UV radiation. Thus, we provide a comprehensive overview of the current knowledge on the molecular mechanisms regulating skin pigmentation, from melanin exocytosis by melanocytes and internalization by keratinocytes to processing and polarization within keratinocytes. A better knowledge of these molecular mechanisms will clarify long-lasting questions in the field that are crucial for the understanding of skin pigmentation and can shed light on fundamental aspects of organelle biology. Ultimately, this knowledge can lead to novel therapeutic strategies to treat hypo- or hyper-pigmentation disorders, which have a high socio-economic burden on patients and healthcare systems worldwide, as well as cosmetic applications.

Amphibian-derived wound healing peptides: chemical molecular treasure trove for skin wound treatment

Amphibian-derived wound healing peptides thus offer new intervention measures and strategies for skin wound tissue regeneration. As novel drug lead molecules, wound healing peptides can help analyze new mechanisms and discover new drug targets. Previous studies have identified various novel wound healing peptides and analyzed novel mechanisms in wound healing, especially competing endogenous RNAs (ceRNAs) (e.g., inhibition of miR-663a promotes skin repair). In this paper, we review amphibian-derived wound healing peptides, including the acquisition, identification, and activity of peptides, a combination of peptides with other materials, and the analysis of underlying mechanisms, to better understand the characteristics of wound healing peptides and to provide a molecular template for the development of new wound repair drugs.

Investigation into the effect of skin tone modulators and exogenous stress on skin pigmentation utilizing a novel bioengineered skin equivalent

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are a popular technology due to limitations in animal testing, particularly as they recapitulate aspects of structure and function of human skin. Many HSEs contain two basic cell types to model dermal and epidermal compartments, however this limits their application, particularly when investigating the effect of exogenous stressors on skin health. We describe the development of a novel platform technology that accurately replicates skin pigmentation in vitro. Through incorporation of melanocytes, specialized pigment producing cells, into the basal layer of the epidermis we are able to re-create skin pigmentation in vitro. We observe apical distribution of melanin within keratinocytes and formation of supranuclear caps (SPNCs), only when the epidermal compartment is co-cultured with a dermal compartment, leading to the conclusion that fibroblast support is essential for correct pigment organization. We also evaluate the commonly observed phenomenon that pigmentation darkens with time in vitro, which we further explore through mechanical exfoliation to remove a build-up of melanin deposits in the stratum corneum. Finally, we demonstrate the application of a pigmented HSE to investigate drug modulation of skin tone and protection from UV-induced damage, highlighting the importance of such a model in the wider context of skin biology.

Demystifying the mechanism of action of professional facial peeling: In-vivo visualization and quantification of changes in inflammation, melanin and collagen using Vivascope® and ConfoScan®

Professional peeling using chemicals (chemical peeling) is a popular non-surgical procedure commonly used for the treatment for photoaging, pigmentary disorders, scarring, fine lines, and wrinkles. The objective of our case study was to elucidate the mechanism of action of professional peels/peeling. For proof-of-concept, we used a commercial blended peel containing trichloroacetic acid and lactic acid. The facial peeling was performed by a physician on four subjects. These subjects were followed over time in the clinic to take clinical pictures and monitor surface and anatomical changes in inflammation, melanin, and collagen at regular intervals post-peel (5 min, 48 h, and day 9). Dermoscope and Vivascope® were used to image surface and subsurface anatomical changes, respectively, and ConfoScan® was used to quantify aforementioned anatomical changes. Based on Vivascope and ConfoScan analysis, we could see clear visual clinical evidence of controlled injury-healing mechanism of peel's action: immediate but transient onset of inflammation within 5 min (indicate injury response by skin), followed by melanin redistribution evident at 48 h (indicate activation of skin's defense system), and remodeled fibrous collagen network without any inflammatory cells on day 9 (healing response). To our knowledge, this is the first ever clinical study to deconvolute the mysterious mechanism of action of peels, in-vivo.

Loss of 'Epidermal Melanin Unit' Integrity in Human Skin During Melanoma-Genesis

Cutaneous melanoma can be a most challenging neoplasm of high lethality, in part due to its extreme heterogeneity and characteristic aggressive and invasive nature. Indeed, its moniker 'the great masquerader' reflects that not all melanomas are created equal in terms of their originating cellular contexts, but also that melanoma cells in the malignant tumor can adopt a wide range of different cell states and variable organotropism. In this review, we focus on the early phases of melanomagenesis by discussing how the originating pigment cell of the melanocyte lineage can be influenced to embark on a wide range of tumor fates with distinctive microanatomical pathways. In particular, we assess how cells of the melanocyte lineage can differ by maturation status (stem cell; melanoblast; transiently amplifying cell; differentiated; post-mitotic; terminally-differentiated) as well as by micro-environmental niche (in the stratum basale of the epidermis; within skin appendages like hair follicle, eccrine gland, etc). We discuss how the above variable contexts may influence the susceptibility of the epidermal-melanin unit (EMU) to become unstable, which may presage cutaneous melanoma development. We also assess how unique features of follicular-melanin unit(s) (FMUs) can, by contrast, protect melanocytes from melanomagenesis. Lastly, we postulate how variable melanocyte fates in vitiligo, albinism, psoriasis, and alopecia areata may provide new insights into immune-/non immune-mediated outcomes for melanocytes in cutaneous melanin units.

Recognizing Drug Hypersensitivity in Pigmented Skin

The imagery of pigmented skin is underrepresented in teaching materials such as textbooks, journals, and online references, and this has resulted in poorer diagnostic and management outcomes of skin pathology, including delayed cutaneous drug hypersensitivity reactions. In this review, we use clinical images to highlight factors that impact clinical presentations and sequelae of drug hypersensitivity reactions in pigmented skin compared with nonpigmented skin. We describe clinical features in some anatomic sites that aid diagnosis or are associated with more severe sequelae. Finally, we discuss strategies that may aid the diagnosis and management of these reactions in pigmented skin.

Melanoma, Melanin, and Melanogenesis: The Yin and Yang Relationship

Melanin pigment plays a critical role in the protection against the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation and other environmental stressors. It is produced by the enzymatic transformation of L-tyrosine to dopaquinone and subsequent chemical and biochemical reactions resulting in the formation of various 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) oligomers-main constituents of eumelanin, and benzothiazine and benzothiazole units of pheomelanin. The biosynthesis of melanin is regulated by sun exposure and by many hormonal factors at the tissue, cellular, and subcellular levels. While the presence of melanin protects against the development of skin cancers including cutaneous melanoma, its presence may be necessary for the malignant transformation of melanocytes. This shows a complex role of melanogenesis in melanoma development defined by chemical properties of melanin and the nature of generating pathways such as eu- and pheomelanogenesis. While eumelanin is believed to provide radioprotection and photoprotection by acting as an efficient antioxidant and sunscreen, pheomelanin, being less photostable, can generate mutagenic environment after exposure to the short-wavelength UVR. Melanogenesis by itself and its highly reactive intermediates show cytotoxic, genotoxic, and mutagenic activities, and it can stimulate glycolysis and hypoxia-inducible factor 1-alpha (HIF-1α) activation, which, combined with their immunosuppressive effects, can lead to melanoma progression and resistance to immunotherapy. On the other hand, melanogenesis-related proteins can be a target for immunotherapy. Interestingly, clinicopathological analyses on advanced melanomas have shown a negative correlation between tumor pigmentation and diseases outcome as defined by overall survival and disease-free time. This indicates a "Yin and Yang" role for melanin and active melanogenesis in melanoma development, progression, and therapy. Furthermore, based on the clinical, experimental data and diverse effects of melanogenesis, we propose that inhibition of melanogenesis in advanced melanotic melanoma represents a realistic adjuvant strategy to enhance immuno-, radio-, and chemotherapy.

The regional distribution of melanosomes in the epidermis affords a localized intensive photoprotection for basal keratinocyte stem cells

Human skin is a highly efficient self-renewing barrier that is critical to withstanding environmental insults. Undifferentiated keratinocyte stem cells reside in the basal layer of the epidermis and in hair follicles that continuously give rise to progenies ensuring epidermal turnover and renewal. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a proven cause of skin keratinocyte cancers, which preferentially occur at sun-exposed areas of the skin. Fortunately, melanocytes produce melanin that is packaged in specific organelles (termed melanosomes) that are then delivered to nearby keratinocytes, endowing the recipient cells with photoprotection. It has long been thought that melanosome transfer takes place stochastically from melanocytes to keratinocytes via an as-yet-unrecognized manner. However, recent studies have indicated that melanosomes are distributed regionally in the basal layer of the skin, affording localized intensive photoprotection for progenitor keratinocytes and stem cells that reside in the microenvironment of the basal epidermis. In this review, we summarize current knowledge about molecular and cellular mechanisms that are responsible for the selective transfer and exclusive degradation of melanosomes in the epidermis, emphasizing implications for skin carcinogenesis.

Blind source separation of molecular components of the human skin in vivo: non-negative matrix factorization of Raman microspectroscopy data

Determination of the molecular composition of the skin is crucial for numerous tasks in medicine, pharmacology, dermatology and cosmetology. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is a sensitive method for the evaluation of molecular depth profiles in the skin in vivo. Since the Raman spectra of most of the skin constituents significantly superimpose, a spectral decomposition by a set of predefined library components is usually performed to disentangle their contributions. However, the incorrect choice of the number and type of components or differences between the spectra of the basic components measured in vitro and in vivo can lead to incorrect results of the decomposition procedure. Here, we investigate an alternative data-driven approach based on a non-negative matrix factorization (NNMF) algorithm of depth-resolved Raman spectra of skin that does not require a priori information of spectral data for the analysis. Using the model and experimentally measured depth-resolved Raman spectra of the upper epidermis in vivo, we show that NNMF provides depth profiles of endogenous molecular components and exogenous agents penetrating through the upper epidermis for the spectra and concentration. Moreover, we demonstrate that this approach is capable of providing new information on the molecular profiles of the skin.

Penetration of Singlet Oxygen into Films with Oxygen Permeability Coefficient Close to that of Skin

Although its antiviral and antibacterial functions help prevent infection, singlet oxygen (¹ O₂ )-which is generated by the action of light on an endogenous photosensitizer-is cytotoxic. In the present study, we investigated the ability of ¹ O₂ -generated by the action of visible light on a photosensitizer-to penetrate skin. We used two polymer films with oxygen permeability coefficients similar to that of skin-i.e. cellulose acetate (CA) and ethyl cellulose (EC). Both films contained 1,3-diphenylisobenzofuran (DPBF), which was used as an ¹ O₂ probe. ¹ O₂ generated externally did not permeate the films by mere contact. Therefore, we conclude that the potential for ¹ O₂ to penetrate the skin is very low, and films that generate ¹ O₂ are safe and useful for preventing infections by contact. We also proved that ¹ O₂ can move between the layers of integrated polymer films when they are joined together.

Melanin Distribution in Human Skin: Influence of Cytoskeletal, Polarity, and Centrosome-Related Machinery of Stratum basale Keratinocytes

Melanin granules cluster within supra-nuclear caps in basal keratinocytes (KCs) of the human epidermis, where they protect KC genomic DNA against ultraviolet radiation (UVR) damage. While much is known about melanogenesis in melanocytes (MCs) and a moderate amount about melanin transfer from MC to KC, we know little about the fate of melanin once inside KCs. We recently reported that melanin fate in progenitor KCs is regulated by rare asymmetric organelle movement during mitosis. Here, we explore the role of actin, microtubules, and centrosome-associated machinery in distributing melanin within KCs. Short-term cultures of human skin explants were treated with cytochalasin-B and nocodazole to target actin filaments and microtubules, respectively. Treatment effects on melanin distribution were assessed by the Warthin-Starry stain, on centrosome-associated proteins by immunofluorescence microscopy, and on co-localisation with melanin granules by brightfield microscopy. Cytochalasin-B treatment disassembled supra-nuclear melanin caps, while nocodazole treatment moved melanin from the apical to basal KC domain. Centrosome and centriolar satellite-associated proteins showed a high degree of co-localisation with melanin. Thus, once melanin granules are transferred to KCs, their preferred apical distribution appears to be facilitated by coordinated movement of centrosomes and centriolar satellites. This mechanism may control melanin's strategic position within UVR-exposed KCs.

Melanin distribution from the dermal-epidermal junction to the stratum corneum: non-invasive in vivo assessment by fluorescence and Raman microspectroscopy

The fate of melanin in the epidermis is of great interest due to its involvement in numerous physiological and pathological processes in the skin. Melanin localization can be assessed ex vivo and in vivo using its distinctive optical properties. Melanin exhibits a characteristic Raman spectrum band shape and discernible near-infrared excited (NIR) fluorescence. However, a detailed analysis of the capabilities of depth-resolved confocal Raman and fluorescence microspectroscopy in the evaluation of melanin distribution in the human skin is lacking. Here we demonstrate how the fraction of melanin at different depths in the human skin in vivo can be estimated from its Raman spectra (bands at 1,380 and 1,570 cm-1) using several procedures including a simple ratiometric approach, spectral decomposition and non-negative matrix factorization. The depth profiles of matrix factorization components specific to melanin, collagen and natural moisturizing factor provide information about their localization in the skin. The depth profile of the collagen-related matrix factorization component allows for precise determination of the dermal-epidermal junction, i.e. the epidermal thickness. Spectral features of fluorescence background originating from melanin were found to correlate with relative intensities of the melanin Raman bands. We also hypothesized that NIR fluorescence in the skin is not originated solely from melanin, and the possible impact of oxidized species should be taken into account. The ratio of melanin-related Raman bands at 1,380 and 1,570 cm-1 could be related to melanin molecular organization. The proposed combined analysis of the Raman scattering signal and NIR fluorescence could be a useful tool for rapid non-invasive in vivo diagnostics of melanin-related processes in the human skin.

Traditional Asian Herbs in Skin Whitening: The Current Development and Limitations

In Asia, the market for whitening cosmetics is expanding rapidly, more and more people prefer to use natural products. Driven by natural product demand and technical advances, herbal research is also developing fast. Lots of studies reported that Asian herbal reagents can reduce melanogenesis, these findings provide evidence for the whitening application of Asian herbs. However, the current development status and challenges of herbal research need attention too. By reviewing these studies, different problems in studying herbal formulas, extracts, and active ingredients were presented. One of the most influential troubles is that the components of herbs are too complex to obtain reliable results. Thus, an understanding of the overall quality of herbal research is necessary. Further, 90 most cited Asian herbal studies on whitening were collected, which were conducted between 2017 and 2020, then statistical analysis was carried out. This work provided a comprehensive understanding of Asian herbal research in skin whitening, including the overall status and quality, as well as the focuses and limitations of these studies. By proactively confronting and analyzing these issues, it is suggested that the focus of herbal medicine research needs to shift from quantity to quality, and the new stage of development should emphasize transformation from research findings to whitening products.

Bio-derived hydroxystearic acid ameliorates skin age spots and conspicuous pores

INTRODUCTION

We report on the preparation and efficacy of 10-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) that improves facial age spots and conspicuous pores.

METHODS

The hydration of oleic acid into HSA was catalyzed by the oleate hydratase from Escherichia coli. Following treatment with HSA, collagen type I and type III was assessed in primary human dermal fibroblasts together with collagen type III, p53 protein levels and sunburn cells (SBC) after UVB irradiation (1 J cm^-2 ) by immunohistochemistry on human ex vivo skin. UVB-induced expression of matrix metalloprotease-1 (MMP-1) was determined from full thickness skin by RT-qPCR. Modification of the fibroblast secretome by HSA was studied by mass-spectrometry-based proteomics. In a full-face, double blind, vehicle-controlled trial HSA was assessed for its effects on conspicuous facial pore size and degree of pigmentation of age spots in Caucasian women over an 8-week period.

RESULTS

HSA was obtained in enantiomeric pure, high yield (≥80%). Collagen type I and type III levels were dose-dependently increased (96% and 244%; P < 0.01) in vitro and collagen type III in ex vivo skin by +57% (P < 0.01) by HSA. HSA also inhibited UVB-induced MMP-1 gene expression (83%; P < 0.01) and mitigated SBC induction (-34% vs. vehicle control) and reduced significantly UV-induced p53 up-regulation (-46% vs. vehicle control; P < 0.01) in irradiated skin. HSA modified the fibroblast secretome with significant increases in proteins associated with the WNT pathway that could reduce melanogenesis and proteins that could modify dermal fibroblast activity and keratinocyte differentiation to account for the alleviation of conspicuous pores. Docking studies in silico and EC50 determination in reporter gene assays (EC50 5.5 × 10^-6  M) identified HSA as a peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor-α (PPARα) agonist. Clinically, HSA showed a statistically significant decrease of surface and volume of skin pores (P < 0.05) after 8 weeks of application and age spots became significantly less pigmented than the surrounding skin (contrast, P < 0.05) after 4 weeks.

CONCLUSION

HSA acts as a PPARα agonist to reduce the signs of age spots and conspicuous pores by significantly modulating the expression of p53, SBC, MMP-1 and collagen together with major changes in secreted proteins that modify keratinocyte, melanocyte and fibroblast cell behavior.